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Hi everyone – here is my latest completion, the 1/48 Eduard Messerschmitt Bf-109E-1 Weekend Edition, built with the addition of the Eduard etched fret for this kit. This one was built to accompany the Hurricane I finished back in January (here - Normally I'm a WW1 aircraft builder, so I don’t know too much about Bf-109s... I am sure there are plenty of errors! The model is painted in the markings of a machine of 1/JG26, France, 1940. This scheme seemed a little more interesting due to the green spinner and possible lack of white infills to the fuselage markings. The decals came from an old Aeromaster sheet from 1994 (which I have had in the stash for at least 20 years), which, sadly, silvered a bit (not surprising for decals that are nearly 30 years old..!). The national markings and aircraft number "1" were sprayed using home made masks. The paints used for the finish were all SMS acrylic lacquers (my new favourite paint), but the RLM02 and RLM71 were ‘reddened’ up a little bit, as they were a bit too ‘green’ for my taste. Here's some pics: Overall, this is an excellent kit which goes together nicely (so nicely in fact that I am tempted to start another one!). Apologies for the poor photography (my camera is also pushing 20 years old…). Thanks to all for looking! Cheers, Brad

Hello guys, I'm pleased to show you my latest build, Revell's 1:32 Bf 109G-10 Erla. I used the decals to represent "Yellow 7" of JG 300. This aircraft was captured at the end of WW2 at Prague-Kbely. I followed Eduard's paintintñg scheme instead of the one supplied by Revell.

Now that I finished my build for the Fw 190 group build, I thought it'd be time to start the single remaining kit in my stash, Revell's 1:32 Bf 109G-10 Erla. Colour scheme will be of Yellow 7 from JG300 at the end of the war in Europe. I'll be following Eduard's painting instructions for this aircraft. Boxart: Eduard's painting instructions. Photo of the real aircraft. Cockpit and propeller done. I managed to break the clear fuel pipe that goes into the cockpit, but that was fixed with a but of glue. More progress tomorrow!

Hello peeps. Well, uk is in lockdown and I am working from home. In between work I will get some bench time. So time to have a play with an experimental aircraft. I bought the PM ho 229 from Tornado models in Birmingham and I set about engraving the panel lines and was all set to start until I managed to break the canopy.....The canopy was broken beyond repair and I couldn’t find a replacement and asked the good folks here for help getting a replacement. Then the very generous and superb gent @dogsbody kindly offered me the pioneer kit all the way from Canada. Blown away by his generosity that kit has now arrived and I will be building the pm kit and pioneer kit side by side. It will be a slow build but thanks to mr dogsbody (who I owe a pint to when all this blows over) I have crash moulded a new canopy. Here is the wonderful box art of the pioneer 229. It will be an adventure! At least the pioneer parts seem to fit. The pm one..........stay safe and enjoy the ride as I build both of these side by side.

Hi Gents , I present to you my Helmut Wick Me 109 E4 as it was at the time of his fate in November 1940. I must admit that my tag " BoB" is not precisely appropriate , as common agreement of end of BoB is October 1940.. Forgive me for that. Anyway, For me this scheme is interesting as it shows , in my opinion , the Luftwaffe transition move from "offensive" scheme on aircrafts , to "defensive" one." "wind is turning" Not far from that, RAF would change for fighters from DE/DG to MG/DG scheme .. Guys, not pretend to be 100% pertinent on that 😉 So this plane camo was toned down with brush application of green all over light parts ( included yellow nose identification markings) and previous double chevrons markings were overpainted , choose to represent it with RLM 02 to stay compliant with " toned down" overall apparence . just a kind of feeling :-)) Painted with Gunze paints. seing pictures... see that there is things to improve/clean.. 😉 On to the Pics ! Any comments welcomed ! Hope you'll like it ! Cheers !!

Hallo Now this is after a long brake with resin kits my first since a very long time. I built two kits of this He-51 in the past. One from Classic Airframe and another from Roden. Today I have a better kit. This time in scale 1/32. Since I live in Vienna, I intend to build the aircraft from JG.223 3. Staffel from Vienna in 1938. After getting out all parts, I cleaned them in a proper way. So that they are actually ready for use. I had to notice, that some parts are missing. This is a bitter moment. The most disappointing missing part is the entry hatch. So, depending on Silverwing, I wrote a mail already, I will have to build it in scratch. I do not have any literature about this type. No detail shots. All I have is like a ragpicker I went through the web. I found some nice photos. So therefore the call for you, if you have detail photos or drawings from this type, let me know. The catch with the rigging of the plane is the same as I saw it in all other kits before. Nothing new. My question are basically the interior and the rigging technique. I assume it could be equivalent to the Gladiator by using flat metal as rigging material by itself. So far for today with some pictures. Happy modelling

So I've finally decided to bite the bullet and post a WIP here. I've challenged a friend's son to a model build (we have a month), and I've decided to incorporate this aeroplane into my ongoing (so far not published) build. A while back (OK, a few years ago), I read a book by Hans-Werner Lerche (1914-1994). He was a Luftwaffe Test Pilot during WW2, and flew over 125 different aircraft types, including evaluation flights of many allied aircraft, most of them after only visual examinations of the aeroplane (so no training or handbooks!). He was the principal pilot of the Luftwaffe test site at Mecklenburg Rechlin 1945. In his book he describes his career, and lists the aircraft he flew, quite a few with enough detail to be able to depict a reasonable model. I have spent the last few years putting together as much detail as I can, and purchasing as many of the aircraft as I can in 1/48th scale. I plan to use this thread to document the builds. Rivet-counters- please close this thread now, as I don't plan to do perfect- near enough is good enough for me, especially after having had a minor stroke 9 years ago, three shoulder surgeries in the last two years, and an ulnar nerve surgery last year. My eye-hand co-ordination is not close too what it should be, but I'm doing this as therapy. I should also add that I'm old-school- brush only. So, to kick this off, here is the start of my 1st documented build in this long-term project- a 1/48th Henschel Hs 123 A-1. Unfortunately there is not much beyond the fact that he flew the Hs 123 in the book, and I have not been able to firmly identify a colour scheme, so I will be going with a generic 70/71/65 machine as per the instructions. The box cover for the 1/48th Henschel Hs-123 A-1- I picked it up at a reasonable price not long ago. The sprues of the 1/48th Henschel Hs-123 A-1.

Hallo We found some pictures from my father in law. Maybe it is of interest. Happy modelling

Hallo I have 10 kits from the 109 Gustav. From version 2 to 14. All sorts of kits. The Tamiya and Zvezda G-6 and several Eduard editions. My question is: The Gustav was in reality criss-cross converted. GM-1, MW-50, upgrated hood, Mk-108 and so on. The situation is, that nearly no kit represents the aircraft I want to build. If it is so, in detail I miss hatches, or the wrong hood. The difference with upgraded vision improved hood to the standard Erla hood is too big, to be ignored. Especially on the aspect of aerial. AS will be AS. No conversion intended. To much work! On the other side, for planes of JG-300 / 301 / 302 the landing light is mostly omitted. I intend to build the aircraft I intend, and not to stick on the decal option the kit has. Lots of decals I have, lots of masks too. I need to know a scribing tool to make the missing hatches in fuselage or wing by myself. I need to know where to get dash boards for the improved blind flying and radio equipment for the night fighter versions. I need to know aftermarket hoods for upgraded vision improved hood / not Erla. If you can help me, I would be happy. Thanks in forward. Happy modelling

Hi Now my 5th Ju-88 is ready. The second from ICM. Before that it was Dragon and Revell. Regarding the kit: Relatively large compromises have to be made in terms of accuracy compared to the origin. This primarily affects the cockpit, with the flat floor instead of the massive height offset. This is linked to a few details in the cockpit that made me shake my head. The additional control stick in position, the additional control stick, which was intended for the bombardier, is only installed when approaching the target, otherwise it is fixed to the right side wall. The device for storing the boarding ladder on the rear bulkhead under the radio equipment is missing! The A-4 variant is missing all ammo boxes. The ammunition feed and the sleeve hoses are also missing. Therefore I did not install the weapons. What is still missing is the large bulkhead on the large cockpit hood, not even Eduard has it with him. General: The injection molded parts just don't fit well. Some parts are warped, the wing connections have a tolerance problem with the pins and holes. They're really annoying. Many gluing areas are beveled, so that in the end there is an gluing line instead of an gluing area. So it will loosen easily! When installing the engine nacelles, the designer obviously neglected some of the geometry. The front tenons of the inside and outside nacelle would have to be chamfered so that a reasonable prefabrication of the assembly group is possible. The quality: Of the injection molded parts themselves can best be observed with small parts. There is hardly an antenna or pitot tube that does not break. Brittleness is present in smal long thin parts. Some components have so much internal stress that maximum force is required to join them. Classic example is the great pulpit. The nose pulpit has a typical tolerance problem. Tongues on upper part reach too far down left and right for lack of fit. Rework required. Especially on a fuselage front part, which consists of three or four parts, a complete fitting test beforehand is hardly possible. About the model: This A-4 has an interesting paint job that deviates from the norm. The aircraft is from KG 54 Totenkopf. Operative in Brindisi in Italy around 1943. I will make the aircraft from KG 54 Totenkopf. Operative in Brindisi in Italy around 1943. Brindisi is in the middle of the heel of the Italian boot at the eastern coast. In this area there occurred one of the biggest environmental pollutions. Here is the link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_John_Harvey By the way, the scribbling I used a pen. First time. Acrylic empty pen from Montana. My WIP: Well, so have a look on the model now: Happy modelling

Hallo While doing our Christmas cleaning, we found a pile of photos. The pictures are from a flight with an F-156. It must have been around 1997. At that time, this aircraft was privately owned at the Wiener Neustadt airfield. The pilot of this machine had a model shop. After we started building plastic models, back then as beginners, we got interested in these old types of planes. My girlfriend at the time put me in touch. The aircraft itself was essentially original. The entire control, cockpit, etc. There was only the extension for the officially prescribed radio. The pilot who flew this machine was a very old gentleman at the time. At a young age he was stationed in the far north as a Ju-88 operational pilot. The operations were directed exclusively against shipping traffic. Allied supplies to Russia. Flying in the far north is no easy task. Light, weather, magnetism, loneliness. That is why radio navigation was of great importance. The lonely radio stations were vital. To secure this thread of life, this pilot was often on the route with the Fi-156. Visits, celebrations, equipment were the purposes of his countless non-operative flights. Hence the familiarity with this type of aircraft. Flying was really fun. We did a proper short takeoff and we went backwards. Rarely have I flown as stable and safe as with this aircraft. Note as a model builder: We built 3 storks. One from Esci, two from Tamiya. While the Tamiya kits are pretty nice, they have the pathetic flaw of making the plane look stupid. The wing and the landing gear are not corresponding at all. Wing positve dihedral as if in flight, landing gear as if on the ground. That's what I said to the people at Tamiya in Shizuoka in Japan personally, but it was ignored. I would like a kit for Christmas with which I can represent a stork on the ground with a negative dihedral and spread legs, and one kit in flight on a stand with a positive dihedral and hanging landing gear. Please look at the pictures. @Julien, I have some more for a Walkaround, if wanted. Happy modelling

Hi folks, may I present my latest (and longest) project. Started this beast 2 years ago, ZM Ta-152-H1 in 1/48. It's retty difficult to build due to strange parts brakdown, lots of filling and sanding was required to finish it off. I was lucky enough to get the PE parts for it, but the most time consuming was placing of HGW rivets over the entire airframe. Painted with MRP Paints, weathered with oils. Enjoy the pics!

Does anybody ever corrected frames? Cockpits have usually external and internal frames. Mostly all kits the cockpit clear parts show just external frames. Even if there is just an internal frame. No matter which type. Ju-88, Ju-87, Me-110, Helifax,. I think about removing the external frame, and just spraying inside. Has anyone experience on this matter? Happy modelling

After about ten years since I started working on this model, I would like to present you this model in the RFI! I wouldn't say much about the model, it is already well known to everyone. A very good model of Revell, but the appearance of the new Eduard's 110 overshadowed it. As far as I remember, the fit is decent, but not great. The details are really beautiful, especially the cockpit. RevelL decals are standard excellent, but I must say that they are still a bit thicker. Gunze's chemistry failed to neutralize transparent film. From the some extra touches, here ad there the panels are overlapped and the exhaust pipes are hollowed in. Painting with Model Master enamel authentic colors (the first time for me) and I'm really pleasantly surprised by how easy they are to spray (for classic enamels)! And their colors are just to my taste! The weathering was done using a stencil for the effect of marbling (more precisely, granite ;D), wooden watercolor crayons, pigments, tamiya washes, silver pencil and small chipping done with a fine brush. Stencils for the marble effect are very practical, but it is still desirable to adjust them with your own hands, so to speak (which I did not do), because you often feel an unnaturally sharp border. My problems were caused by the Montex mask, which left horrible amounts of glue, so in the end the cabin frame was painted 3 times, and finally with a brush. I would like to thanks our colleagues from MAKETARSKI KUTAK (http://www.maketarskikutak.com/index.php) for their crucial help regarding this problem. Only after taking pictures I did notice that I forgot to paint the radiators... I took pictures in two sets because I still struggle with photography. On a white background, the images turned out to be too dark, but perhaps still closer to the real model, while with a dark gray background, the images are clearly visible, but the RLM75 and 76 are too bright and the weathering is overemphasized. In the end, despite a certain number of mistakes, I must say that I am satisfied with this fast and experimental (for me) work! All criticisms, suggestions and praises are more than welcome! And the pictures at the end: The details: And a few WIP pictures with unfortunately ruined finished paint job. I over-aggressively polished the model and ruined the finished paint job which I did not adequately correct...

Another day, another Luftwaffe build from me. This time it's the Hasegawa Bf 109F-4/Trop in 1:48 with markings for Marseille's last Bf 109F before moving to the ill-fated G-2/Trop. The kit decals are cracked and are beyond saving, so I'll use a mix from Xtradecals, Academy and Hobby Boss ones. Boxart: This is a special edition with resin wheels. Regular ones are also included. Original decals: Before starting the assembly I decided to paint the small parts on the sprues.

I can finally call this build completed. A few problems with the decals being brittle and breaking when sliding them into the model, but everything turned out ok in the end.

After building Revell's 1:32 Me 262, I thought I'd start on this one. This Fw 190A-3 is the original new tool version that would spawn so many boxings by Hasegawa. The plan is to build it as Black 13 with the Eagle Head on the nose. Decals look great on the sheet. Hopefully they won't breal when placed in warm water. The Eagle Head will also be a test to try my Mr. Mark Softer. Here's a photo of the box.

Hello guys, While I study for my next exam this 20th and dread my upcoming visit to the dentist (Wisdom Tooth removal), I thought I'd show you my next big scale project. It's the Revell (new tool) 1:32 Messerschmitt Me 262A-1a. I'm certain I won't be building any of the given schemes. I'll go for a what if colour scheme based in the early camouflage of the 262 in RLM 74/75. The only distinctive marking for this otherwise generic scheme will be the addition of a double chevron (from the Bf 109G-6 in 32nd scale from Revell) to denote a Captain's aircraft. Boxart: Parts (still bagged):

After fighting this kit in the early build phase, I was able to complete it to a decen standard. The difficult areas were the engine nacelles and the wings to fuselage area. The first one was solved by applying CA to the gaps, and the latter by sanding the upper portion of the wheel wells until the wings fitted without gaps. Would I build another 1:32 Me 262 from Revell? Well, now that I know the poor areas of the kit, I'd definitely give a go to the original nightfighter B-1a/U1. If you want a better fitting kit, then the Trumpeter one is for you (and me too). The last photo has Galland's autobiography (left) and a book about his life in Argentina (right).

I don't see many Bf 110s built. In any scale, from 72nd to 32nd. In 1:32, the only available kits are the old Revell Bf 110C-4/b and the family from Dragon that goes from C to D. The Dragon kit is not easy, being very fiddly in multiple places, such as the propeller construction and engine assembly. The clear parts also come separate as 8 individual sections. The engines is where I encountered the biggest issues. If you aren't going to open the cowlings, then you can just assemble the basic engine with the arms and glue them to the landing gear bulkheads. Once that's done, make sure to glue the outer exhausts looking upward, while the inner ones point downwards. The covers for the engines were also wrongly marked in the instructions. I didn't realise this until it was time to glue everything together. But I beat the kit in the end. I used the kit decals. The crosses were undersized. I think they'd fit better in a 1:48 kit. The sharkmouth conformed to the panel lines after using some Mr. Mark Softer. The question is, would I build this kit again in spite of the self induced issues and poor instructions? Absolutely. In the Revell boxing of course.

Keeping with my trend of big scale Luftwaffe planes, I purchased this one today. Decals had some sort of rust colour on the sheet but none on the decals themselves. I tested the Dragon logo on hot water and was able to slide it onto the surface of a paint mule without breaking it. The model is huge, almost the same size as my Ju 88 from Revell in 1:32. The kit includes a small decal sheet (that doesn't come with the stenciling), a small PE fret, a metal wire, and over 400 parts molded in light grey plastic. However, this one won't be my next build. My next one will be the Revell 32nd scale Me 262A-1a. I'm just preparing the mood for this future build 😋. Here's the boxart:

Youtube recommended me this short video. It shows some Fw 190F-8s from what I assume is SG10 (due to the yellow nose band and rudder) at the end of WW2 in Czechoslovakia (I base this claim by the fact the Revell 1:32 F-8 has markings for two SG10s based at Czechoslovakia).

German WWII Acrylic Paint Set (3014) ICM via Hannants ICM have fairly recently released their own brand of acrylic paints on the market, and are creating some kit specific sets to go with their major releases, of which this is one. The set arrives in a cardboard box with six screw-capped bottles inside, each containing 12ml of paint. The bottles are clear Polypropylene, and are capped with cylindrical tops with knurled sides, and a one-time security seal that you break on first opening. A label on the side gives you basic information about the colour and code, a little information regarding application in English and Ukrainian and a bar-code. This set provides the major colours to assist you in painting your brand-new Gotha Go.242 Glider in 1:48 from ICM themselves, and you will find the following colours in the box: 1074 Pale Blue 1034 Dark Sea Grey 1003 Deep Yellow 1070 German Field Grey 1035 Grey-Green 2002 Satin Varnish The paint is thick in the bottle, with plenty of headroom between the surface of the paint and the lip of the neck. I dropped a glass stirring ball into each bottle, and they took a few seconds to disappear beneath the surface, indicating their viscosity. If you look closely at the Pale Blue and Dark Sea grey, you'll notice that the shade seems lighter in places. That's not a reflection on the actual colour inside the pot though, so don't be put off. Lifting the lid shows the true colour, which is a much better representation of the colours, as can be seen in the darker areas. What causes the lighter pigments to adhere to the bottle sides is a mystery, but it's cosmetic only so not something to worry about. During testing, I used Ultimate Acrylic Thinners to dilute the paint to spray through my Gunze PS770 airbrush, which has a 0.18 needle chucked in. The paint dilutes well once it has been mixed thoroughly, and sprays well through my airbrush, which has a smaller than usual needle that is a good test of the finesse of the pigment grind of any brand, some of which don’t spray very well though anything less than a 0.3mm needle. There were no problems with blockages at all, and the coverage was excellent after my usual ad hoc dilution method, which was probably nowhere near the 40-60% thinners or water that’s suggested on the pack. Apart from the varnish, the other paints all dry to a matt finish. In past tests, the Satin Varnish worked very well diluted with water, sprayed over the spoons that were also partially taped up to perform two functions at once. The satin patina that resulted is exactly what was expected, and the tape lifted no paint at all, despite my best efforts to do so. Bear in mind that the spoons were prepped by a buff with a very fine sanding sponge to give them the best chance of adhesion. Using a brush, the colours cover well two coats with minimal brush marks visible. Conclusion The paints are an excellent. There is a little less paint in the bottles than some brands, but a shade more than others, so it’s about average. That is more than offset by the very reasonable price they’re asking for the set, even at RRP. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Sabrekits Henschel Hs-126, built from the box. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. My buying impulse for this kit was the marking option for an aircraft photographed in Austria (my homecountry), at the end of the war. According to the paint instructions, this aircraft had black undersides and belonged to FFS(B)11, a blind-flying school; according to my research, FFS(B)11 never existed. I came across an online photograph which does not support the 'black undersides': https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:German_utility_aircraft_in_Austria_1945.jpg The simplified type of markings rather suggest this airplane served with one of the Nachtschlachtgruppen (night harrassment units) or a close-range recce squadron. All the confusion aside, the Sabrekits model is difficult to assemble and has a few surface irregularities, making for a troublesome build. There are no positive location tabs, just shallow depressions, where the struts are supposed to go. The landing gear legs are butt-joined to the fuselage, the instrument panel is just a flat piece of plastic, and while some of the struts were too long, others were too short. I was reminded of short-run-kits from 20 years ago. I have not seen the new 1/72 Brengun kit of this type, but I heard rumours that fellow Britmodeller @Redboost is working on it. It would be interesting to hear his opinion to compare both offerings. Thank you for your interest in this topic. Best greetings from Vienna! Roman

This kit has been lying in my stash for quite some time, after a really horrible start to 2022, I decided to do a quick OOB build. The Fly kit is a reasonable easy build, I was a little sceptical about the "Wellenmuster" finish so decided to search the net for an alternative finish. I eventually found photos of other camouflaged Grunau Baby 11b's which appeared to have been camouflaged with paintbrushes!! I am not sure of the colours used for camouflage and decided on RLM 62. For the main finish I used Vallejo Aged White. The result was as follows :- Cheers, Andy