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  1. RMS Titanic (PS-008) 1:700 MENG via Creative Models Ltd There can’t be many people that haven’t heard of the appalling and unnecessary loss of life that happened when the Titanic’s maiden voyage route intersected with an iceberg, causing huge rips down the ship’s side and overwhelming the safety measures that led many to believe that she was unsinkable. At the end of the day on 14th April 1912 she hit that fateful iceberg and began taking on substantial quantities of water. Less than three hours later she broke up and slipped beneath the surface with many of the passengers still aboard, and many more forced to jump into the almost freezing water. Over 1,500 souls were lost that day thanks to the hubris of the designers and impatience of the supervising crew, but many lessons were learned from this tragedy that are still applicable today, and many lives have subsequently been saved as a result. The 1997 blockbuster release of the film The Titanic brought the story to the public consciousness again after the wreck had been found over 13 miles from her expected location some years earlier. She was found lying upright and in two major parts, both of which had hit the sea bed at a considerable speed, badly buckling the underside. She has since been thoroughly inspected, and some of the knowledge gleaned from those expeditions was incorporated into the fictionalised plot of the James Cameron helmed film. Which itself has become part of modern vernacular, with phrases such as “paint me like one of your French girls” raising the occasional titter. The Kit This is a new tool from MENG, and it’s quite an interesting and unusual proposition, as it is moulded in pre-coloured styrene, comes with a wood-effect plinth and gold-painted ferrules to stand the model on, and what’s more fun is that it also has a lighting system included with a battery box hidden in the base, plus a touch-sensitive button out of sight to turn the lights on and off. Neato! The kit arrives in a slender box in MENG’s usual style with a painting of the titular ship on the front, overhead and side views on the sides, and a number of QR code links to their social media sites for good measure. Inside the box are four loose white parts plus a sprue in white styrene, a tan sprue, a brown sprue, an orange/brown sprue, a small brick red sprue and lower hull part, a black sprue and upper hull part, and the afore mentioned wood effect base and brass/gold painted supports on a sprue that was originally moulded in brown. In addition, there is a black and silver name plate for the plinth, a length of flexible LED strip with a lead and socket on one end, plus a battery box with circular PCB holding the touch switch and terminated with a socket for the plug. The instructions are quite unusual in their layout, taking the form of three concertina sheets that extend to 90cm once unfolded. The first sheet is single-sided and has the history of the Titanic in four languages including English, plus a short advisory section in the same four languages. The second and third sheets contain the instructions and optional painting guide, including the electronics. Detail is excellent for the scale as we expect from MENG, and although the “proper” modeller will want to throw some paint at the kit, you don’t have to, or if you’ve bought the model for a child, everything should go together without glue or paint and still look good, especially when you tap the invisible switch and the lights come on! Construction begins with the decks fore and aft (pointy and blunt ends if you’re uninitiated), which are moulded in tan and have a black insert and the white tops of the hull that have a representation of the railings moulded-in. The main superstructure has tan decking inserts added at both ends, and has another upstand and walls in white, on top of which more tan decking parts are fitted, then some white superstructure parts and another partial layer of decking. The hull is next, and begins with adding the three props, which are moulded in tan and insert into brick red fairings that slot in under the stern on three pegs each, with the centre prop fitting in front of the sole rudder, which made turning the ship a slow process. The black upper hull has the LED strip stuck between two raised grooves using the self-adhesive tape on the back of it, threading the wires through a hole in the rear before adding the bow and stern decks over it. The main superstructure is pushed into the upper hull, and the upper hull is pushed into the lower hull to make it look more like a ship. On the bow deck a number of black and brown inserts are pushed into holes in the deck, including cranes, a task that is repeated at the stern with more cranes, and a helpful purple arrow advising you where the bow is. Fixtures and fittings are inserted into the decks on the main superstructure next, including the lifeboats, of which there were too few of course. The four funnels are each made out of two orange halves with moulded-in raised riveting, a black top, and an insert that slips into the top of each stack, the rearmost one having a different insert, as it was mostly used to vent exhaust from the galleys, machinery and ventilation, rather than belching smoke and steam from the boilers. The masts are found on the brown sprue, with one each placed fore and aft. The plinth has a very believable wooden texture painted over the brown styrene, with a raised frame ready to receive the self-adhesive nameplate, and two holes for the hull supports, which have been painted gold at the factory. Flipping the stand over, the battery pack sticks inside a marked area on its self-adhesive tape, and the switch is similarly stuck into a raised circular bracket shape near one of the supports, with the wire fed through the hollow centre of the support. The box takes two AAA batteries that aren’t included, the ones shown in the photos being from my battery drawer. The lower hull has two holes to receive the supports, and the wire dangling from one of them mates with the socket sticking out of the plinth, allowing you to turn the lights on and off by tapping on the plastic over where the switch resides. The rest of the instructions are taken up with a colour chart that gives you codes for MENG’s collaboration with AK Interactive, and Gunze’s new(ish) Acrysion paint system, which is starting to be more readily available in the UK. Markings The Titanic only wore one paint scheme during her short life, and as the styrene is pre-coloured already, it’s not strictly necessary to put any paint on the model once complete. In case you want to however, there are two views of the ship from the side and overhead with the colours called out in MENG/AK Interactive and Gunze Acrysion codes. Conclusion This is a very well-detailed model regardless of whether you want to treat it as a true model or snap it together for a nice table model over the course of the afternoon. Detail is excellent, and the addition of the lights gives it extra appeal. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. 1/144 Korean Air 747-8 Intercontinental LED lights For a while now I have planned a civilian airliner build with the hope of using LED lights. I am aware there isn't many LED builds out there and none which I can follow step by step so it's going to be a huge learning curve. Although I feel a confident modeller I have no experience with electronics, therefore I had to go out a buy a LED kit with battery, circuit board and several nano LED's courtesy of magic scale modelling. They have a section on civilian airliners and supply LED sets for any Airbus, the Boeing 747 (no variant stated) and Concorde. The cost of a set is quite expensive and depending on which way you would like to position your aircraft the cost goes up if you want to add landing or taxi lights. The set arrived a week or so after ordering from Belgium My aircraft is going to be in an in flight position, so I didn't click the option for taxi or take off/landing, however this is what i received:- * Cabin Lights (upper and lower deck) * Cockpit Light * 2 x Fuselage rotating beacons * 3 x flashing strobes for wing edge and tail * 2 x Taxi Lights * 4 x Landing lights What was apparent straight away that all the lights received were plain white including the rotating fuselage beacons and I was also expecting green and red navigation lights. I think its possible to paint the LED bulbs to get the desired colour effect but I don't know how good/bad it will look. It's also possible to use the taxi lights as the missing navigation lights or logo lights however this was not what I was expecting for the money I paid. There is a website called 'small scale lights' which does nano LED's in different colours that look like they may be compatible. The kit is the Zvezda 747-8I. I'd always put Zvezda ahead of Revell as I think they are far superior in quality. Revell kits always seem to come with excess plastic. especially on the more fragile parts of the kit like the fan blades. Whats also apparently obvious about the kit is the sheer size of the aircraft even when compared to large twin engined kits like the a350 and 787. The 747-8I is also quite a stretch on the classic jumbo. However, what doesn't come with the Zvezda kit is the flightdeck. This one I've salvaged from a a350 and because of the taper in the 747s upper fuselage the cockpit is a lot more narrow. Below is 2 a350 cockpits with the one on the left the altered one. The flight deck goes further back on the 747 but with a very limited view it may not be worth it. As my aircraft is going to be in flight i might use the cockpit light underneath the control display to try and show some illumination from the LCDs. I've also ordered some 1/144 scale generic seated pilots from 'Ozmods', I'm expecting them to be miniscule On first set up I have to admit the cabin lights look great (fuselage is just taped together at this point). A slight problem is that It is possible to see the individual lights inside the fuselage from certain angles, somehow i have to find a way of masking the light source from the human eye but still allowing a high degree of illumination (similar to a real airliner with the lights guarded by the overhead bins)
  3. Well she's finished. A quick little build for me, I've enjoyed this one, these half tracks certainly give you more ability to add extras than tanks :-) Even a driver hiding deep inside "In in the dark the driver comes across a JT position" Thank you you all for looking. I hope you enjoy
  4. Hi Guys For those who have looked at the pictures of my finished Cityliner coach with lighting photo's HERE and wondered how it can be done, I have uploaded some build pictures onto FLICKR which can be found HERE Hopefully it will give others an idea of what is involved and how, with a little patience and thought, lights can make a kit more realistic. Kevin More pictures to follow..............
  5. Hello, As I'm seeing a Hobbyboss Su-27 Flanker B happening on my desk in the near future, I was wondering if any of you would happen to have more information about the position, color and -most importantly - blinking frequencies of the lights? Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  6. Hi guys For those who have seen the pictures of my finished kit of the Enterprise and wondered how I managed to add the lighting, etc, I have shown a couple of the diagrams below which may be of help. For more diagrams, pictures and video just click HERE Kevin
  7. I am not quite sure how or where to start this? I need to replace some raised bolts in 1/48 scale. I read somewhere that someone reconstructed a taillight using PVA. In error I sanded avay some raised detail on the back of my 1/48 Hurricane seat armor plate. Any help would be great Thanks Sean
  8. This my attempt at painting up the Moebius Seaview interior. I added lights from the model railway store and some very basic wiring, everything designed to run from a dolls house adaptor and socket. Additions to the crew were from the Revell Visible UBoat which were darn close to the scale Moebius used.
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