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Found 18 results

  1. This is the big Moebius styrene kit that probably needs no introduction. Currently I'm at a "proof of concept" stage in trying to decide how to wire this for lights. I've got some other projects on the go, too, so I suspect this will be a sporadic log. The kit is supported by a long steel spine that runs the length of the craft from the base of the centre engine bell at rear to the back of the round command sphere at front. It's actually composed of two separate rods, of equal length, which join in a steel sleeve concealed inside the antenna module. There's a lot of space inside the kit's hollow engine compartment, so it's an obvious place to stow batteries, and the two steel rods of the spine are actually rather robust tubes, so in principle they could carry wiring from the back to the front of the kit. Here's what the inside of the engine compartment looks like, with the steel rod in place, protruding from the rear to support the rear engine bell: I made some mods to the upper half of the engine compartment to turn it into a lid for this "battery bay": I've extended the original locating holes for the outer plating into slots, and I've removed the front locating flange, so this piece now works as a removable cover: Next task was to prove that I could get some decent wiring through the tubing. With a little fiddling and some mineral oil I eventually managed to screw a twisted pair through both lengths of tubing: Here are the two rods assembled end to end, linked by the central sleeve fitting, to give an impression of how long this assembly is going to be: Next I wanted to trim a short length off the rear rod, so that it finished inside the "battery bay", but I needed to add some sort of structure inside the bay, so that the engine compartment remains supported. It doesn't need to be particularly robust, since there's not much weight at the back of the kit. I came up with this, which is drying in place supported by the full-length rod: I could actually have made it a little more robust if I'd thought to drill out the plastic case at each end of my brass rods---these holes would have been concealed by the external detail panels. As it is, they're simply epoxied in place. After letting that assembly dry overnight, I measured the length I needed to remove from my rear rod. Here I have the rod in its correct position, with the rear end against a stop inside the central engine bell, and I've marked the point at which it protrudes from the rear of my improvised support structure: On the principle of measuring twice and cutting once, I also assembled the four base units for the rear cargo pods, and made sure that once they were threaded on to the rod, an appropriate length of rod protruded at the front end to engage with the central sleeve. Then I pulled back my wiring and Dremelled off 1¾ inches of steel. Here's the post-lopping assembly, showing I can now get my wires into the bay, with the correct length of steel extending forwards to engage with the central sleeve. There's room for a couple of switched AA 3V boxes---one for the engines and one for the command sphere. And there's room to glue in a couple of connection blocks at the rear. To get wiring to the engine bells, I can use the original central hole for the steel rod, and I've drilled out the supports for the two lateral engines: As it stands, this leaves the engines bells relatively unsupported, so I may drill out further and add three styrene tubing sleeves to replace the original supports. At the front end, only one hole needed drilled, in the rear part of the command sphere, just large enough to allow the wiring through while still allowing the structure to serve as a locating stop for the front end of the steel rod. That's it for now.
  2. Hi all. Got a bit of a niche question so I hope I put it in the right place. Short story is, I'm building a more ambitious project and will be attempting to incorporate some LED lighting into it. I haven't received the LEDs yet, but in the off chance I need to adjust their tone, can you paint over the plastic bulb housing with a clear acrylic colour? I tried Googlin it but no definitive answer. Most things seemed to think I meant the big LED bulbs for a room over a small 5mm one, and kept mentioning heat resistant paints. One place mentioned markers to colour clear bulbs, but I specifically need any clarification on clear acrylic (either Tamiya or MiG Ammo). Bulbs will be running off battery packs. Cheers Gaz
  3. Zapping through YouTube i shortly stumbled across a Video from a guy who used LED Filaments for creating a light Saber for his 1/12 Scale Darth Vader Figure. Very usefull Video!! Those Filaments can be found in various lenghts and various colours on Ebay. Obviously clearly more expensive than the classical 5, 3 or 2 mm LED but i see alot of potential due do: - avoiding hot spots compared to standard LED´s - flexible installation due to the variable shape of the Filament - .... Anybody here who has already experience with using LED Filaments for his builds? Does anybode know, if the filments can ce cut to individual lenghts? Anything else to be considered or worth mentioning??
  4. Hello Everyone, I have bought the MOEBIUS 1/8 scale space pod. Injection mounded. I also obtained from the US company Tenacontrols (not the pants!), their lighting kit. the total cost of kit and lights around er,eum. about £350 for both after import taxes etc. so I have to do a good job for such a wad. I have checked basic fit of pod parts and they are very good. taking stills from the movie 2001, the interior is ls pretty near the movie prop. I have begun masking off the interior to prevent light bleed from the LED lighting kit. I also have an ARDUINO to be used for lighting the 6 displays and flickering them as per movie. Has anybody stared or completed the kit yet? cooments please....
  5. May I present one grand old lady - Galactica: Got this a while ago and grabbed all the electrics to light it when I did my Viper. Taking what I learnt from that I invested quite a bit of time trying some more complex lighting and used some fiber optics and micro led's to get the scale right with this. This is the Revell copy of the Mobius kit and aside from some flash and rubbish decals, it's a great kit. I cocked up the order of one side of the landing bay arms but I was too far into the build when I noticed it to correct it . I spent quite a while looking for the right colour scheme as I wasn't convinced on the silver/gunmetal look. I'm quite pleased with this and loved the shading process, going crazy with my washes and dry brushing! I also attempted some aztech with my homemade stencils. I added some battle damage, as let's face it, she's always suffered at the hands of those pesky Cylons! I customised a base to take the battery and switch - can you guess where that's from? Cheers, JB.
  6. Hi all i also have the RN Fg.1 thread going just below. Im also working on an 1/48 Airfix Lightning F.3. Do the wing flaps droop when at rest. All the photo's ive seen show me know. But as some of you have more experience with the Type i thought i'd ask ? Dennis
  7. Hi all This is my attempt at lighting the Revell Neoplan Cityliner. After lighting the Routemaster Bus it gave me the confidence to attempt the same with this kit although there wasn't so much space to work in, with such a large cluster of lights. To find out the external lighting setup I contacted the manufacturer and someone was kind enough to send a picture of the front and rear with every light function clearly marked. I also had to find a way of lighting the floor passageway and the internal roof lights but found something on the Internet that helped to achieve that. It is not perfect by any means and some blemishes can be found if you look hard enough, but when displayed in a display case, some of that is hidden. More pictures of the finished build as well as WIP pictures and a video can be seen HERE. As with the Routemaster, I hope to upload some pictures that I took as I built the kit so that it may give other members ideas for a future project. Regards Kevin.
  8. Hi chaps. I'm nearing the end of my current build,so have turned my mind to my next build. Ed-209 is on hold, at the moment, kinda burned out with sorting his legs, so I'm trying some new things. May I present the pegasus mercury 9 rocket kit..... I've had this kit for a bit now, so thought I would pull it out of the stash and dust it off. Going try some new things, to me, as the kit comes with out buildings I'm going to try a diorama! Now I think this kit has been designed with lighting in mind. It is a 3 engined rocket, and each "nacel" contains a clear dome on it's tip.... As you can see, there is a central pin that locates the part in the top of the engine, and I'm looking at attaching a flashing led to each one. Once painted clear red, I think it will look rather good. Wiring the rocket for power is incorporated into the kit too. There is a fueling tower and hose in the kit. This is what pegasus supply for the fuel hose, two core power cable! It even runs to a small fuel tank kinda thing, which looks suitable to conceal the batteries. Shouldn't be too hard to run some thin wire through the pylons holding the engines so I can power the leds. Looking at illuminating the command centre too. Plus, if possible, the spot light on the roof. Hoping to paint the rocket in a polished nmf finish. So a lot of firsts for me:- Add lighting to a build. Paint a polished nmf finish, maybe alclad. Create a diorama. The kit is suppesed to be 1/350 scale, so might look for some suitable vehicles too. Work might not start for a couple of weeks, so please excuse me if I don't update it yet. Will try to get some sprue shots up soon. Thanks for looking. Matt
  9. Afternoon, I've finally given into temptation and made a start on this one. I have some big(ish) ideas to go with this kit - we'll see how many of them come to fruition. Things I definitely want to do are: - Drop the flaps - Separate all the flight control surfaces, - Add external (and possibly internal) lighting - Motorise the props My inclination is to keep all the doors closed up - out of the box the cargo hold is fairly plain, and I think it would take a lot of work to get it in to a state that I would be happy with. Also, I'm inclined to do it 'in-flight', so whilst the ramp could be down, it's more likely to be up. I'm still undecided on whether to have the wheels up or down - the kit wheels are rather strange slab-sided affairs, and I'm not aware of any AM replacements. I have the PE set and paint mask, but don't think I'll be bothering with the SAC landing gear - I'm a bit sceptical about the utility of these in most cases. I think this aircraft is quite well suited to dropping the flaps - it has a very simple high-lift system: no leading edge devices and dropped-hinge flaps with a fixed vane on the trailing edge. This should make getting the geometry correct that bit easier. So far, I've mostly been cutting things up, starting with one of the flaps and flap-hinge fairings: I've also cut out the ailerons, elevators and rudder, so I'll need to get the Evergreen strip out are start building up the missing parts. I might cut out the spoilers too, possibly only on one side, as these are also used for roll control and I want to try and capture a 'dynamic' snapshot as it were. If anyone has any advice on lighting, I'm all ears! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234957864-adding-led-lights-to-models-any-good-how-to-guides/ Thanks for looking! Andrew
  10. Hi Folks, My trusty old angle poise lamp just gave up the ghost with a considerable bang! Has anyone got any experience of buying and using the magnifying type lamps which seem to be quite plentiful on e*$y or is it recommended to bite the bullet and go to a specialist dealer i.e. is it a case of you get what you pay for? I would be grateful for any thoughts. Cheers, M
  11. 1:32 Hawk T-1 lighting kit Tirydium Models Following on from his fibre optic lighting sets for sci-fi subjects HERE, Tirydium Models has released this set for the Revell 1:32 BAe Hawk T-1. Packaged in a clear zip lock bag the set comes complete with all you need to light the following: Nose Light (White LED) Wing Tip Warning lights, (White LED’s with 2 x 0.75 fibre guides) Top Strobe Light, (Red LED with 1 x 1.0mm fibre guide) Underside Strobe Light, (Red LED with 1 x 1.0mm fibre guide) There is also a controller chip on a board for the flashing strobe lights. Everything comes pre assembled, so all the modeller has to do is fit the parts into the model as it’s being built. Due to the construction of the kit slots will need to be filed out along the wing for the fibres to fit without being pinched and the wing tip lights will require their lugs cutting off and a small hole drilled into them. The instructions are very clear and easy to read and come with a selection of colour photographs showing where and how the LED’s and fibres are to be installed, along with written instructions explaining what needs to be done. The kit is well made with all LED/Fibre optic joints well taped up, there may be a slight excess of fibre for the lights, but this can easy be cut to size. Conclusion This is a very nice and well made set-up for those who either don’t feel competent or, like me, a little too lazy to fit lighting systems to their models even though they would like to. With this kit, aided by the clear instructions, there is now no excuse. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  12. Wondering if there is a lighting expert in house? Converting this to a spray booth and would like to mount a light(s) on the top portion. Lots of options, LED, Halogen, fluorescent.......input appreciated. Robert
  13. Hi guys, this was a bit of an experiment ive been wanting to do for some time. Below is a screen grab from the Battlestar Galactica Mini Series, it shows a Battlestar similar to the Galactica hit and adrift, and it gave me an idea. I thought to myself, hmmmmm ...so, rather than posting all the photos, here is the end product, and a link to the folder with all the WIP photos for your viewing pleasure. http://s181.photobucket.com/user/chris1984_99_99/library/Battlestar%20Titanic?sort=3&page=4 I still need to get a base made for it, but I think im finished with the kit itself. Its my first time doing an explosion this way, so any words of advice or how to improve would greatly be appreciated! Thanks! Enjoy!
  14. Hi, I'm aware there are a couple of companies out there offering ready-made aircraft lighting sets, but I'm quite keen to have a go at doing something myself. My chosen subject is the Revell 1/72 A400M - I'm not sure any of the off-the-shelf sets cater for the size or complexity required (wingspan nearly 65cm). Can anyone suggest any good resources on the subject, including circuit design, component selection, achieving the appropriate frequency for flashing beacons and so forth. It's been a while since I've wielded a soldering iron, but I'm up for a challenge! I'm also planning to add motors to drive the props. Any thoughts welcome. Thanks, Andrew
  15. Hi everyone For those that saw my post with the pictures of the finished product (Ready for Inspection - Maritime / Revell 1/400 scale Titanic with lights) I thought that the diagrams below may help them to see how fairly easy it is to do. Below are the pictures of how I cut away sections of the kit to allow light to flow from the hull and throughout the ship. The worst job was to drill out all of the portholes and the windows along the walls on the decks. I covered the whole of the inside of the hull with silver foil to reflect the light upwards and then just added about six 5mm led's. Kevin
  16. Having recently developed the lighting kit for the 1/32 scale Revell Hawk I've been asked to develop one for the 1/48 Airfix Hawk kit. This will have the same lights as the 1/32 kit, ie nose light, wing tip lights and strobes. This thread is to show the development of the lighting kit but I will use one of the Airfix kits to work out how it needs to go together. Firstly on the 1/32 kit the nose light is a small SMD LED which sits within the nose section, on the 1/48 Hawk kit there is not enough room to install a LED so the nose light will have to be a fibre guide. Having built up the cockpit sections a 2mm hole was drilled into the bottom of the rear bulkhead. To get the guide through to the nose a notch was cut in the front bulkhead. The guide secured to the underside of the cockpit. A quick test with the fuselage taped up and the LED on. Next up getting the fibre guides to the wing tips. Cheers, Warren
  17. My model club is considering buying a video camera to help display modelling demonstrations. We already have an excellent screen and projector but are a bit clueless about the other kit required like a camera and lighting. Any advice on what is the best sort of camera, recommended models and lighting would be much appreciated. I think we will also need a tripod. Our budget can stretch to several hundred pounds. Thanks, Nigel
  18. I have been thinking about my current Dalek build and it really is crying out for some lights to be installed. My thoughts are two red flashing LED's on the dome and possibly another in the eye stalk. I can probably manage to wire up an LED but how do I go about creating a flashing effect? I would guess that I could get some sort of module from Maplins (there is a handy local store in Aberdeen). I think I will also have to create a base as somewhere to install the batteries. Any tips or advice from electronic wizzes out there would be appreciated. Nigel
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