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  1. I can honestly say, this model is the longest time I've ever taken to build any one kit. Paul Fisher first did this kit about 1998 or so. I can't recall when exactly I got my resin kit but it is one of many of Paul's great resin kits from those days. Sadly, Fisher Model and Pattern is no more as Paul lost everything, his house, his work shop, everything in the California fires about 2014 and has not been able to return. I have a weak spot for the Le Mans race. I also enjoy the movie "Le Mans" with Steve McQueen. I have several models built that appeared in the movie and actually raced in the 1970 Le Mans that they used for much of the footage of the actual race. All the Porsche 917's and Ferrari 512S's are the real deal in the movie. The movie cars were decorated to resemble the actual cars in the race with often times the only difference being in the style of the number. I want to do this car as it appeared in the real race. The Fisher kit comes as the number 5 car driven by Ickx and with a different front clip than what I need. Sheet styrene and bondo to the rescue. A shot of the completed Fisher kit. But I need this. Bondo came out fine. I scrounged up all the different decals I needed. Painted with Testors Ferrari Red and then decaled. This was done in 2014 or 2015. All the while I'm looking at this thinking "This is the wrong red...." It's too bright. That is what prompted me to shelve it the first time. It was years later I found a company in Spain called "Le Mans Decal" that had the set I needed for the number 8 car. "Easy Off" oven spray is my go-to stripper. Repainted with Guards Red (I think) and new decals. I found better 70's tires from Model Factory Hero. I used the Fisher resin wheel, made a silicon mold and cast my own wheel/tire for the 512. That was in 2019. I don't recall what made me put it aside, perhaps some online group build. Anyway, it's back out and this time it's getting finished. As with most of us, time changes our shape. The resin engine cover was badly warped and twisted after so many years sitting in the box. Lots of fiddling , torquing and heat could not get it back to shape so I traced a new one out on some 15thou. sheet styrene and detailed it for interest. The one goof in the kit are the exhaust pipes included in the kit and are now missing anyway. Kit pipes were as included on this Fisher 312P I built years ago. These would never fit on the Codalunga. I found images of 512's and went to work. I was well pleased with how they came out and looked cool snaking out from under the long tail but I found nothing showing that the pipes were so long and that they all seem to terminate just after the gearbox so I trimmed them back to something more reasonable. Aligned the axles with the chassis, aligned the chassis with the body, aligned the wheels/tires with everything together. On its own feet for the first time. Headlights need to sparkle. A shame there isn't a better aftermarket for people that need headlights, appears MV Products is no more. I think it works. Not perfect but gives the right effect. I need duct tape for the headlight covers. I mixed up some red to match the LeMans printed decals and cut it into the appropriate width. I redid the printed tape areas with the duct tape for a little more accuracy. And did the headlights as well. Belt hardware I pinched from a Fisher 917 kit. Thanks for following along this far. More soon.
  2. Hi All, While I have this burst of energy, I thought I would try to complete as many as I could... Another one that I have resurrected from the pile-of-doom. This Is the original Tamiya XJR-9. I have has this one for a very long time. the box top: The engine: And the rear suspension, primed:
  3. Ford GT40 Mk.II ’66 (CS-004) 1:24 Meng via Creative Models Ltd Ford began taking an interest in endurance racing in the 60s after a falling-out with Enzo Ferrari during a potential take-over by Ford, and to improve their brand name awareness, which started in the UK in Slough with a Lola chassis, lacking in success initially. It was taken back in-house so to speak and carried on in the USA, using the genius behind the Lola GT6 that had shown promise, despite it failing to finish the race. They created the GT40, with the 40 stemming from the minimum height in inches at the time, using some of the Lola’s chassis and a Mustang engine in the Mk.I, which was far too rough and not at all ready for racing at that point. This led to another change in personnel, putting the famous and rebellious Carrol Shelby in charge, who with input from driver/mechanic Ken Miles undertook a series of significant modifications that gave it a great deal of power and success. The Mk.II was fitted with a larger 7.0L V8 engine that turned it into a beast that was mated with a four-speed gearbox, to be used by three racing teams to stunning effect. Those teams took 1,2,3 at Le Mans in 1966, leaving the previously successful Ferraris in their dust, which they continued to do for the next two years. As is usual with racing, improvements were made to the bodyshell, the carbs and other parts, although they were not without their problems. A technical failure took out every GT40 at Daytona in 1967, causing a brief return to prominence of the Ferraris, but they were back to their winning ways again for a total of three years, which is a long time in racing. Its successor began life as the J-Car, but after killing driver Ken Miles in a testing accident due to materials deficiencies and aerodynamic issues, it was redeveloped as the Mk.IV, but was often left in the garage at race-time while the Mk.II was still winning, as the older car was a more reliable platform. By 1968 the Mk.II was no-longer competitive, and the Mk.IV was fielded, but success was elusive. An attempt was made to continue the name with the Mk.V but this was more of a sports car than a racing car. A few kit cars carried on the look over the years, but in 2002 a new model was released by Ford as a sports car using the name GT, but it was negatively affected by Jeremy Clarkson’s unfortunate experience of persistent unreliability of his example, bought with his own money. 2015 saw a second generation launched as a street car, with an endurance racing team beginning in 2016 and carrying on until 2019 with a healthy number of victories. The Kit This is Meng’s second kit of the famous GT40, the first being the double-size 1:12 uber kit that was released in 2020 and re-released in a pre-coloured moulding this year. Taking advantage of their research, Meng have now downscaled the kit to 1:24, which was probably a lot more complex than putting it on a photocopier and choosing 50%. It arrives in a compact Meng style box, as it isn’t actually a very large car, and inside are three large and one small sprue plus two bodyshell halves in pale grey styrene, a clear sprue, four flexible black tyres, a quartet of poly-caps, a small Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, a sheet of sticky-backed flock material, a sheet of windscreen masks, and the instruction booklet with colour profiles on the rear pages. The detail is typical Meng, with a complete engine, transmission and suspension included, as well as the interior, which will be seen through some crystal-clear transparencies, although it doesn’t have the opening doors of its larger sibling. The decals are crisp too, and include instrument and tyre stencils into the bargain. Construction begins by choosing which of the three team vehicles you wish to build. You have the choice of the iconic pale blue Gulf No.1 (Ken Miles & Denny Hulme in 2nd place), black No.2 (Bruce McLaren & Chris Amon in 1st place) and gold No.5 (Ronnie Bucknum & Dick Hutcherson in 3rd place), as this makes a difference to the details of the model. The front hubs are the first to be made, trapping poly-caps between the two halves, then putting them to one side while the passenger “tub” has the pedal box, gear shifter and fire extinguisher added, and the upper front suspension framework inserted above the moulded-in lowers, with a sprung damper between them and the hubs slotted in place at the outer end of the frames. An overhead diagram shows the painting of the tub for each of the decal options, with another for the floor pan, which glues to the underside of the tub, while you also attach a linkage between the two front hubs so the wheels point in the same direction. Two inner arch inserts are installed around the front axles, and the radiator assembly is dropped into the front with two side supports over the front lip. The engine is built in top and bottom halves, beginning with the block, transmission and the ancillaries running from the timing belt, with the hoses for cooling extending forwards. The transmission has the drive-shaft boots moulded in, and this assembly is then dropped into the floor pan along with the lower suspension wishbones. More suspension trickery is inserted over the top of the transmission with a pair of crisply moulded springs and a filler hose included. At the rear, a “bike rack” slips over the two rectangular forms either side of the transmission, top suspension framework and twin oil-coolers fixed to their bases at the front of the engine bay. The top of the engine has the cylinder heads and rocker covers, air intake and distributor fitted, then the complex 8-port exhaust manifold is installed from four sinuous parts that join to create the two exhausts that project from the rear of the car. The rear hubs are made up from two halves and a poly-cap, linked to the transmission by a short drive-shaft that slots into the boots, one per side of course. The GT40 has two seats, with one just for show, while the other has set of four-point belts that are made from the pre-cut flock material, which is slid over the buckles and adjusters, then attached to the seat. The GT40 seats were perforated initially to save weight and keep the driver cooler, with holes through the padding and metal eyelets keeping things from fraying. While these seats aren’t perforated due to the scale making it impractical, the eyelets are moulded into the fabric and can be painted silver as long as you didn’t drink too much last night. The texture and deformation of the surface of the material part of the seat is also excellent, and gives a very realistic impression that will be accentuated by some careful painting. The engine firewall has some nice moulding present too, and has a few ancillaries attached to the rear face along with the glazing before it is dropped into the tub. At the other end of the tub, the dashboard is made up of a vertical panel with the dials inlaid, which all have decals, the horizontal coaming with moulded-in grille, and the steering wheel on a short column set to the right side, which also has a boss decal. The thick door card panels are also inserted into the tub at this stage, boxing in the sides of the cab. The GT40’s wheels were larger at the rear to get the power down more efficiently, and this is replicated faithfully in the kit, using two pairs of beautifully moulded hubs with separate knock-off wheel nuts, and flexible black tyres with a subtle tread on the contact surfaces, and pin-stripe decals in a pale blue that go around the circumference of the tyre rim, plus some undocumented curved Good Year logos should you want them or your references require it. The completed wheels push-fit into the hubs and are held in place by the poly-caps, which will come in useful during the rest of construction. Attention turns to the bodyshell, and the front cab and bonnet section is prepped with inner arch inserts and a couple of clear lenses pushed in from the inside. There are a number of ejector-pin marks on the roof that will need hiding if you feel they’ll be seen, which is best done before adding the rear-view mirror and the other external parts. Externally, there are three small raised button-fairings on the left door, some of which should be removed and smoothed over for the various options, and from the inside a pair of holes are drilled for two of the options to add a raised fairing on the roof of the right-hand door, which I suspect was there to accommodate taller drivers. A filler cap is inserted into the right wing, and clear lenses for the headlights and side lights are also glued into their recesses in the front. The rest of the glazing is next, starting with the large windscreen, the two aerodynamic clear lenses on the headlights, sidelights, and the fixed side-windows with their tiny sliding hatches moulded-in. Masks are included for the glazing, and they are pre-cut from a white kabuki tape style of material. The bonnet hatch is an insert with a sculpted exhaust slot to extract hot air from the radiator, supported by a central strake, which was absent from golden number 5, so will need to be removed if you are modelling that option. That completes the front of the bodyshell, and it is attached to the floor pan while the rear section is made. The rear bodyshell has a liner that is a convoluted shape that has a pair of intakes added to the sides, and an extended Y-shaped hose inserted through holes in the sides, which is then painted before it is inserted into the outer skin after putting the clear rear lights in the rear from the inside. Externally, the rear window with its mask is put into the frame, and an intake with clear cover just behind it, which also has a mask to keep it that way too. Two intake “horn” scoops are set on their bases either side of the clear intake, and the PE mesh panel that makes up a good proportion of the rear of the vehicle is added to the frame, leaving a rectangular gap in the centre for the exhausts to exit once it is in place, pivoting on a pair of hinges at the rear. Thanks to the liner, the bland interior of the skin is hidden, which would otherwise have been visible when the back was opened up. Markings As previously mentioned, there are three options from the 1966 Le Mans 24 hours race, where they took first, second and third place in a stage-managed echelon that went over the line together, sneakily robbing Ken Miles of his number one spot (yes, I’ve seen Ford Vs Ferrari/Le Mans 66). From the box you can build one of the following: 2nd Place, 24 hours of Le Mans, France, 1966 Champion, 24 hours of Le Mans, France, 1966 3rd Place, 24 hours of Le Mans, France, 1966 The decals are printed anonymously and have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion The GT40 is truly an iconic racing car, and dominated endurance racing for three whole years, leaving a legacy that lasts to today. This is a well-detailed model of the Le Mans winners from ’66, and should appeal to a great many, even non-car modellers. I’m off to watch Steve McQueen in Le Mans now – similar but different. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Here is my latest creation, a 1/20(ish) Ferrari 330 P4. All carved from one solid piece of beech, with a few walnut accents and finished with whatever leftover varnish I had in the garage. Took about 2 months
  5. First one of 2020: it's Starter's 1/43 kit of the 1993 Toyota 93C-V, as driven by George Fouché, Eje Elgh and Steven Andskar at Le Mans that year. I bought this on a whim without realising it was driven by this trio, all of whom I've had the great pleasure to meet (and get autographs from). So sort-of a personal link without realising it.
  6. Apart from the wheels, which I used the hobby design M3 dtm wheel set, it's stock. A pretty nice kit and fun to build.
  7. Hi Everyone, i have seen the Ford GT Le Mans from Revell and it has a lot of issues (as any Revell kit). It has awful plastics, not so good details, thickness (on the rear diffuser wings in particular), and wheels too small. Then i saw Tamiya will release a road version of the same car. Detail and precision we all know that will be top notch, as usual (it costs almost twice the price..). I am here wondering if, in you opinion, there could be a chance that Tamiya will release a Le Mans version too. And if someone has Revell kit can make a wip? Thanks and regards
  8. Hi folks Another day, another model This months exercise in sawdust making is the recreation of the best looking car ever to have been built (you may disagree, but you are wrong*) the Aston Martin DBR1 Le Mans winner from 1956. I remember as a young boy in the 70s being read bedtime stories by my Grandma from a book written in the jingoistic style of the 50s of the exploits of a plucky British driver in a car that was clearly a DBR1 overcoming the dastardly exploits of Baron Otto von Stereotype in a 300SLR and Count Lucio di Spicable in a 250TR, which meant that for me a Le Mans car was an Aston Martin. Anyway, nostalgia aside, I am attempting to recreate the curves of the car by hand from a block of limewood and will be trying to make wire wheels , also by hand, from plastic pipe and guitar strings (the car will have standard British tuning, none of this foreign rubbish). This build was inspired by @albergman's ebony Jaguar, but won't be quite as impressive due to a skills deficit and a simpler choice of wood. *special exemption for anyone saying Lamborghini Miura Starting point Ignore the rough cut lump of pine, that was just practice with my new chisels Templates:
  9. 2017 Ford GT 1:24 Revell The original Ford GT was an iconic racing car from the 60s that ended the company's lack of success at Le Mans that had lasted for many years. As a concept car the thoroughly modern GT, which we'll call the first generation was developed into a road car in the mid 2000s, with Jeremy Clarkson famously regretting his purchase due to some pretty serious reliability issues with his, which ended with the return of the car and his money. It was always planned to be a low production run, with some cars changing hands well above sticker-price until production ceased in 2007. A new generation was announced in 2015, with a sleeker more modern bodyshell that owes less to its heritage than the first generation, and production beginning the following year in Ontario, outputting one vehicle per day. It can rocket to 60mph in a breath-taking 2.8 seconds, with 100 coming up less than 4 seconds later, but if you have to ask about the fuel economy, this isn't the car for you. Ford have also returned to Le Mans with this car (although not too successfully in 2018), with carbon fibre helping to reduce weight, and ultra-thin gorilla glass used to reduce the weight of the glazing, allowing the 3.5L engine to put its 650hp to good use. You'll need a pretty fat wallet to afford one, at around $400,000 before you start adding your customisations, so a model kit is about as close as most of us will ever get to owning one. The Kit Revell's Easy Click system is employed on this kit, opening up the market to kids, non-modellers and modellers alike who just want to own a replica of this road-going monster, without spending months painting and detailing it. As you would expect, the part count is a friendly 27 pieces, and everything is supplied either pre-painted or moulded in the correct shade for its purpose, requiring minimal removal from sprues. The box is standard Revell end-opening, with a stylised picture of the model zooming down the track it has been PhotoShopped onto. Inside are two outer bags that have been taped tightly to prevent chaffing, and inside are more bags for the components by colour or theme. Inside the instruction booklet is a set of decals and also a cut-down set of stickers for those builders that really don't want to get involved in the modelling aspect of the kit. It is a chassis and interior only kit, with a flat floorpan, an impression of the V6 EcoBoost engine in the rear of the interior, and enough detail to give the impression of the rest. The bodyshell is moulded in a metallic blue that has tiny silver flakes suspended in the styrene, and has a reasonable lustre for an unpainted model. The interior is in a dark grey, the wheels a nice aluminium shade, and the tyres are a soft rubbery-feeling plastic that mimics the look of the real thing. Construction shouldn't take long, but if you are wanting a little more realism, there are colours called out as you progress for spot-painting the engine and interior parts that weren't economical to paint at the factory. Decals or stickers are also called out as you go through the build too. It begins with the interior tub, which has the headlight cluster moulded-in, as well as the engine compartment, both of which are to be spot-painted with metallic, and a few decals or stickers to improve realism. The seats should be two-tone, and fit into the rear of the passenger compartment, after removing four extra sprue-traps that are there to prevent short-shots in the parts. The dash is a single part, with the steering wheel inserted into the left, and a bunch of decals/stickers used for the instruments, after which it is installed across the front of the cab. Moving onto the bodyshell, the front light glazing is carrier on a single part that has a slightly cloudy look that should disappear when it is fitted, and should show off any detail painting you have done in the light body. This fits onto a lug in the underside of the bonnet/hood. The main glazing is very flexible, and it too fits into the shell from the inside, reusing the front lug, and another at the rear to keep it in place. The side windows remain unglazed to allow a good view into the cab. The interior fits into the bodyshell, and the four wheels are shod with their rubber parts, then steel rods are threaded through the running gear, which have the basics of the brake discs at each end to give a view through the spokes after you have pushed the wheels into place. These two fit into slots in the floor pan, and the body is held in place by a pair of black pins that push through from the underside of the floor pan. The addition of the wing mirrors and rear light clusters finish off the build, and the last two pages of the booklet show where the remaining decals/stickers go on the wheels, arches, bonnet and rear of the car. Markings The car can be left unpainted due to its self-coloured nature, with paint optional for parts of the interior, lights and the exhausts if you feel up to it. The decal options are more varied than the stickers, which only have one number plate from Michigan US or a generic GT show-plate instead. The decal sheet also provides plates for Germany, the UK, Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, France, Belgium, Austria and Russia, which should keep their main markets happy. The plates are applied by cutting out the decals and sticking them directly to the model, without getting them wet, which might upset some of the modeller-y people, but a quick dip into the styrene sheet will result in a proper backing for the decal if you so wish it and aren't worried about them getting knocked off during play. Decals will of course give the best finish, but it is good that those with less patience and modelling skill also get the stickers for speed and ease. Conclusion It's not a highly detailed museum quality replica, but it was never intended to be. What it does is allows non-modellers or young people to build their own model of this amazing-looking Ford, putting as much or as little effort into it as they please. It's a great introduction to modelling that could tempt people into doing more, or it can be seen for what it is, a nice rendition of a lovely car in one of the dominant scales for car models. I put this together in the spirit that it was intended (i.e. fairly quickly & with a paint brush) as a break from a boring task I was doing, and it hit the spot Pics below in the next post 🖼️ Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. Tamiya kit, built straight from the box - enjoyed every moment of it, fantastic kit. Please feel free to make any comment, criticism or ask any questions. Ian.
  11. Bought this on impulse from Malcolm Rawlings (Kitfinger) a couple of weeks ago - started it as soon as it was delivered !! So with two sessions I'm well in to the (fantastic) engine & transmission sub assembly, lots of pre-painting needed but this is a wonderful kit and not too far away from my usual NASCAR comfort zone. Feel free to make any comments, criticism or ask any questions. Thanks for taking the time to look, more soon. Ian.
  12. Just finished this after a great deal of work: it's Starter's 1/43 Bussi Racing Rondeau M382 from the 1985 Le Mans 24 Hours. Driven by Jean-Claude Justice, Bruno Sotty and Patrick Oudet, it qualified 34th and finished 18th. This car, chassis #003, competed in five Le Mans 24 Hours, from 1982 through to 1986. The kit is probably the oldest Starter kit I've made, dating from 1983 and with revised decals to depict the 1985 car. It took a lot of time to get its pebbly surface and wobbly panel lines looking vaguely OK and I'm happy with the result, even though it's still a bit scrappy in places. Seatbelts and headlamps are aftermarket, with crash-moulded headlamp covers (kit items were like ricepaper) and side windows from clear acetate (ditto). Radiators from Meri. Surprisingly for a 30+ year-old kit, the decals didn't crack and so they are all as-supplied and not at all yellowed. And a couple of photos to show how it was when I got it (from eB8y, dead cheap); Typical '80s resin: lots of bubbles and flash! And not much in the way of instructions either. But I used to like that aspect: meant you had to plan ahead and do a bit of research! And this is what it looked like after I thought I had straightened-out the bodywork!!! Panel lines were soon filled and then the hard work really began. Thank heaven for Mr Surfacer:
  13. 1992 vintage Airfix kerb-side/motorised kit, apparently quite rare nowadays. Tamiya paint from the rattle-can, followed by three coats of X22 clear, Studio 27 decals and more X22, finishing with Turtle Wax again. The decals were outstanding but measured for an entirely different kit !! :bangs head . The kit may have been from Japan originally either Doyusha or Nichimo or someone like that. It fits where it touches and sits way too high, but as you don't see too many (any) around, then why not, eh ? Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. AFN Ian.
  14. It's not often nowadays that I get to make a vehicle model, having in the past built many, many kits by Tameo, Meri, BBR, Alezan, Marsh, Provence Moulage, Starter, Tenariv - in fact probably every major car manufacturer in 1/43 scale, plus a couple of 1/20 Studio 27s too. But this is just off the table, a kit dating back to (IIRC) 1992, and which I only 'discovered' during a garage tidy at Christmas. I did have trouble with cracking of the decals, but a coat of hairspray did the trick and they stayed together long enough to be applied. Mind you I notice a couple of cracks now I look at the photos: must touch those up. Model is Raul Boesel's Jaguar XJR-16 from the 1991 IMSA championship, from a 1/43 kit by Starter: The XJR-16 is the final iteration of the 1989 XJR-10/11 (IMSA/WEC, respectively), the latter of which I modelled all of 27 years ago, again 1/43 scale by Starter. I dragged it out of garage storage this morning and took some photos of that for comparison. It's stood up remarkably well considering it's been boxed and tussled around for at least two house moves!
  15. Not at all recent, but following interest in my 'real' recent build of Starter's Jaguar XJR-16 I thought I'd get in the garage and dust off a couple of other oldies. A bit of a rarity, but a lovely kit and enjoyable build: Horbra 1/43 Porsche 962 Brun sprint car. An expensive kit at the time I recall (all of £30 circa 1990), but loads of lovely resin, white metal and photoetch. Those wheels are awesome too: And another lovely build: Starter's 1/43 kit of the 1991 Sauber C291: IIRC this is the Schumacher/Wendlinger Suzuka winner (and again IIRC the only win for the C291). This one took a lot of cleaning to get years of dust and grime off, so apologies that it looks a bit grubby. Both of these also needed a few bits reattaching!
  16. While I have the Lotus 88 proceeding slowly in the background I have decided to try and get a quick build out of the way, so inspired by @Borez and @shood23 I'm going to build another Fujimi 917K, this one is Helmut Marko (yes, that Helmut Marko) and Gijs van Lennep's Martini Le Mans winner. This will be a quick build, oob, with just the Studio 27 PE for some extra detail. So far I have started on the bodywork, just a bit of clean up and glueing, with a bit of filling to do.
  17. Anyone come across any Matra Simca MS670 kits? The car won Le Mans 24hr in 1972, 1973 and 1974 yet I can't find a kit of one anywhere?
  18. Finally got a chance to start this in earnest,was scheduled to do it last year in the Le Mans group build but life got in the way.Kit is Tamiya's 787b in Renown colours with Scale Motorsport composite fibre decals and PE and Studio 27 PE. Couple pics of the engine, Had a bit of a 'phaff' with the composite fibre decals,first time using something like this but it looks ok ish,missed a few bits where the decal torn whilst trying to cut round the 'throttle pullies'. Still wet from the Mr Mark Softer Another first for me was making some PE parts,these are two throttle pullies. Fitted the pullies along with the coil packs fitted,then onto the rotors Throttle body added Rear suspension added,part completed,haven't a clue where the sink plungers go After all that I needed a drink.........................or two
  19. After getting the go-ahead (thanks guys!) I'll be knocking together the Slot.It 1/32 kit of the Porsche 962c as a fully-functional slot car. Slot.It has been bringing out its cracking range of Group C cars for the thick end of a decade now. Having started out selling high-end upgrade parts, they started out as a manufacturer with the Porsche 956 in low-drag Le Mans spec and progressed through the Porsche 956/962 family to make gorgeous models of the most of the iconic cars of the era: Sauber-Mercedes C9, the Jaguar XJR-6 family, Toyota 88c, Mazda 787 and Lancia LC2. Although its focus is on delivering a satisfying slot car to committed club racers, Slot.It stands pretty much alone in being able to do so without compromising the quality of its modelling. Most Scalextric models stand comparison with the best diecasts in the market these days, but they are hopeless on the track. Conversely the specialist competition manufacturers build cars that tend to be 1/28 in width and 1/30 in length and about 1/36 in height, making some serious racing weaponry but nasty little things to look at. Slot.It manages to avoid any overt compromise in looks or performance, although by sticking to 15mm rear wheels as standard it does lose scale accuracy on most of the later cars. New 16.5mm rear wheels redress this significantly and these are what I shall be fitting on this particular build. I'm going to build it as the 1990 #7 car driven by Derek Bell, Hans Stuck and Frank Jelinski as it represents the end of a great era for Porsche and has two of my heroes, Bell and Stuck, in the same car. It's a lovely version of the Blaupunkt colours with additional Porsche branding, the decals for which I've got from Patto's Place in Australia. By 1990 a lot of privateer Porsche teams were experimenting with different aerodynamic packages and carbon fibre tubs to try and keep pace with the arrival of Jaguar, Sauber-Mercedes, Toyota and Nissan. The car I'm modelling, however, retained the same basic look that had done Porsche so well at the Sarthe since the team's first 1-2-3 finish in 1982. The 1990 edition at Le Mans was intended to be the 962's last hurrah, with Porsche giving works status to the Joest squad. Famously Joest had managed to win the event in 1984-85 with its celebrated 'NewMan' liveried 956 chassis number 117 - one of the few chassis to take two wins on the event, and in 1985 it did so against the best efforts of Porsche's own squad of 962s. A team of four cars was entered of which three were brand new cars and two were built to a new specification for lighter weight. One of these was shunted by Jonathan Palmer in practice and took no further part. The two 'traditional' 962s trundled round to finish 8th and 14th. Predictably with the calibre of old hands at the wheel, the #7 car was the strongest Joest finisher in fourth place, some nine laps behind the winning Jaguar of Price Cobb, John Nielsen and Martin Brundle... although the all-British 962 of David Leslie, David Sears and Anthony Reid pipped the 'works' entry to the podium and finished as the best of the Porsches. I'm looking forward to this one, makes a change from my usual GB entries!
  20. Hi everyone. My first ever build, the 1989/90 spec Sauber C9 by Tamiya. Never build a proper model before, but I love this car, so it was a good place to start. Will hopefully end up as below, with some photoetch parts and carbon fibre/kevlar decals.. Firstly separated the front panel from the centre section, then also removed the front spoiler from the base. Whole front end separated. Only isse is on the later spec cars, they used a larger front spoiler lip which looks better, so custom making a new piece to fit out of some old plastic. Thats it for now, need to get some paints and order the p/e and scale carbon fibre.
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