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  1. KittyHawk is working on a 1/48th North American FJ-2(?)/3/3M Fury kit - ref. KH80155 Source: https://www.facebook.com/song.wang.5076/posts/1917304511861498?pnref=story V.P.
  2. All, This question has probably been asked many times before, however I cannot seem to locate a recent thread that will answer my query (Happy to be re-directed if one is out there). So from all the current 1/72 P-40 Kittyhawk kits out there, which manufactuers produce the most accurate shaped P-40 E/M & N kits? I've collected duplicate copies of both the Academy P-40E & P-40M/N kits over the years, however now that I've purchased the excellent DK decals sheet and getting stuck into the research side of things, it would appear that these nicely moulded kits are perhaps not as accurate (shapewise) as they should be. I'm not too concerned over cockpit detail, so am happy to trade this for something that looks correct. I'm also keen to build more that one of each type, so do not want to really spend GBP15-20 (AUD30-40) for each kit. Perhaps I'll answer my own query and suggest that the good old Hasegawa kits are still the best available, however is there anything else out there on the market (price-wise that can compete with these old kits? Thanks for reading and/or answering my query. Cheers .. Dave
  3. I'm trying to do Neville Duke's airplane AK578 as depicted on the Xtradecal sheet, Early P-40-Part 2. The problem comes in when I did some research that apparently AK578 is a Kittyhawk and not a Tomahawk. Is Xtradecals wrong? There is conflicting information on the 112 page. One place has it as a Tomahawk with the picture of only the front end. The picture is difficult to make out if it is a Dark Earth/Middlestone/Azure or TLS scheme. Then in the serial number portion of the page it describes AK578 as a Kittyhawk Mk.I. Another of my trusted sources, Roy Sutherland at Barracudacals, has GA D as a Kittyhawk as well. I'm so confused. Can any of you shed light on this subject aircraft? Is it a TLS "D" or a DE/MS/AZ GA D? I want to do this right. Or do I need to pick another aircraft. I really want to do a sharkmouthed desert scheme 112 aircraft. I'm trying to use the Xtracals as I never have and they were given to me for this build. Thanks Floyd
  4. Kitty Hawk is to release a 1/35th Sikorsky UH/SH-60 family. Announced so far: - ref. KH50005 – Sikorsky MH-60L Black Hawk - ref. KH50006 – Sikorsky HH-60G Pave Hawk - ref. KH50007 – Sikorsky SH-60F Ocean Hawk - ref. KH50008 – Sikorky MH-60R Sea Hawk - ref. KH50009 – Sikorsky SH-60B Sea Hawk - ref. KH50010 - Sikorsky HH-60H Rescue hawk - ref. KH50010X - HSM-78 "Blue Hawks" - ref. KH50010X - HSM-71 "Raptors" - ref. KH50010X - HSC-4 "Black Knights" - ref. KH50015 – Sikorsky MH-60S Knight Hawk - ref. KH500xx - Sikorsky MH-60M DAP Black Hawk - ref. KH500xx - Sikorsky S-70C-2 Black Hawk - ref. KH500xx - Sikorsky S-70A Black Hawk RoCAF - ref. KH500xx - Sikorsky S-70A-27 Black Hawk Hong Kong Government Flying Service - ref. KH500xx - Sikorsky UH-60J Black Hawk JGSDF Source: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1614705148581765&id=736521713066784 3D renders V.P.
  5. KittyHawk is to release a 1/48th MJ-1, MHU-83, MHU-141 & MHU-191 Munitions Lift Truck set - ref. KH80160 Source: https://www.facebook.com/song.wang.5076/posts/2267178793540733 V.P.
  6. Hi Chaps, Well it's almost as busy here as the Nordic Group build. I'm only 3 days late and there are 3 pages of building already. Just to be very different I have passed on the Airfix Seafury and will do this Seasprite in the colours of the Royal New Zealand Navy. I picked it up in Singapore late last year. Very unusually this will entail using the kit scheme. Not often that happens for the New Zealand SIG. Here's the starter picture. The red card seems ominous but let's see... Colin
  7. I've been working away bit by bit on this since I finished the Chinook, but I thought that the time had come to start a WIP and get y'all caught up. So, what are we looking at? It's Kittyhawks GR.1 / GR.3 kit which I think will build up into a pretty good shape. There are some gotchas to be aware of though. The kit is really designed to be made with avionics and gun bay doors open and airbrakes too. It's not my usual style to build like that, but I've heard it's can be a struggle to build this kit with those parts closed. Also when I dry fit the two halves of the fuselage, they touch each other at exactly one point, so making something straight and true out of two curves is going to be "fun". As far as after market goes, I have the resin cockpit from Aires plus their replacement airbrake set. Also the SAC metal undercarriage, the Flight path RAF tanks and pods, some pitot tubes and the Kits World decals. Following on a Recce theme from the GR.1A Tonka, I want to model a Jag in the reconnaissance role, so I'm making XZ358 W of 54 squadron. Pictures coming soon. Chris
  8. Dear All, Some snaps of my recently completed Kittyhawk 1a, my first model in over 25 years! Not up to the standards I regularly see in this forum and certainly not one for the purists as I coded it RED, the name of our sadly missed Basset Fauve basset, but I think it's a fair representation of what the aircraft looked like. Apologies for the pics being so large, will have to find a way of reducing them next time. Regards Colin.
  9. I'm now at the crucial stage of painting the upper surfaces of my SH Kittyhawk 1a so looking for some advice please in terms of the correct/best enamels to use for the mid-stone and dark earth having opted for Humbrol's 157 Azure Blue for the underside as this looks about right from colourised photos of the period, accepting these are not entirely reliable My dilemma is that I have a number of brands in my paint stash that I could use as follows: Dark Earth: Humbrol 29 : Xtracolor X002/BS450 Mid Stone: Humbrol 84 : Humbrol HB12 (very old tin) : Xtracolor X009 : Revell 16 On cursory inspection the Xtracolor looks best for Mid Stone and the Humbrol for the Dark Earth but would welcome some advice. I know there are plenty more paint options out there that are acrylic but I only use enamels as they are what I've always used in the past and feel confident with given that this is my first model to get to this stage in many years so don't want to muck it up (hopefully not famous last words). Regards Colin.
  10. Just about to add the bomb to my Special Hobby Kittyhawk 1a but not sure what colour it would have been during this period, 41-42 western desert, so any clues please? Also would the fuse be a silver colour or painted the same as the bomb itself? Regards Colin.
  11. G'day people, I cannot resist a good wokka kit and despite having mixed success completing GB entries, I couldn't help joining this one Box shots cheers, Pappy
  12. Hello All, This is the KittyHawk Super Etendard kit built completely OOB. Paints used are locally available acrylics. Masking was done using my Kiddoo's Play Dooh. Few inaccuracies if I am being nit picky, do check your references for the decals and what loadout you want to use. The decals are very nice except for the flap walk markings. They are to be used if you model the aircraft with flaps up. If you choose to put the flaps down then you will have to cut the decal and then use it. The instructions don't mention anything on this. The Exocet Missile Pylon provided is not tall enough so much so that the fins touch the wings and thus cant be used without proper modification to increase the clearance. The bow in doors on the intakes are shown to be installed from the outside. IMHO I would suggest to install these from inside - gives a better fit. Overall the kit is superb with excellent details and good weapon options. Except for the few things which I noticed as mentioned. Do Comment for me to improve upon anything. Please do Subscribe as I would be coming up with more such Builds. Enjoy The Pictures.. . .
  13. Hi all, so my typhoon fgr4 is on hold for a bit so ahead of what I was planning I have started putting some work in on my kittyhawk diorama. So it's to be 112sqn based at LG91 as it supports the 8th army on its push from el alamein. Only concern is the yellowing of the hasegawa decals and as such I'm in two minds how to go around the markings I have chosen but that's well down the line so I have time to decide? As for now it's onto the cutting and fitting while I await the airfix Bedford and figures from reedoak to arrive.
  14. Hello all; Here's my latest completion. Flown by S/Ldr E. M. Mason on 15th February 1942 on his last sortie. I've taken some artistic license with the aircraft codes, electing to code his aircraft E M rather than using the FZ squadron code No. 94 Squadron was using at that time. As far as I'm aware there aren't any pictures of Mason's aircraft - the squadron having been issued the Kittyhawks only two week prior. I may be right, I may be wrong but I think this marking suitably commemorates his final aircraft. I tried to replicate a hurriedly field applied paint scheme. For reasons of preference, and because it's possible, I painted the underside in Neutral Gray as opposed to light blue. Admittedly it was possibly more likely to have been blue, but there's evidence (photographic mostly - see the main site for explanation) it could have been NG. Besides, I like being a bit different. There's very little weathering as this airframe had only a couple of weeks' use before being lost. Known issues include: the canopy moved around during the photo shoot; the three way connection for the antenna lines isn't very clean; it bugs me that there's the tiniest bend in the gunsight! Otherwise comments and observations are most welcome. Cheers; Mark.
  15. AH-6M/MH-6M Little Bird Nightstalkers 1:35 KittyHawk KH50002 The Hughes OH-6 was developed from a US Army technical specification calling fir a light observation helicopter (LOH) which need to fulfil the roles of personnel transport, escort & attack, casevac and observation. The prototype first flew in 1963. The helicopter entered service in 1966 and almost immediately went to war in Vietnam. Crews soon nicknamed the helo "Loach" after the LOH acronym. Out of the 1419 built for the US Army 842 would be lost in Vietnam, mainly due to hostile ground fire. Following the disastrous attempt to rescue the American hostages in Tehran in 1980 the US Army's 160 Special Operations Aviation Regiment began developing a special aviation task force to prepare for what was then to be a second attempt at the rescue. They identified a need for a small helicopter to land in restrictive locations, and be transported by Air Force Transport aircraft. The OH-6A was selected for this and given the name Little bird as it was much smaller than the MH-60 & MH-47 aircraft they had. In the end there was no second rescue mission but the Army decided to keep the unit it had formed, and this would eventually become the 160th Aviation Battalion. The helicopters used for transport would become MH-6, and the armed ones AH-6. Later when Hughes would become part of MD helicopters a newer helicopter based on the OH-6 the MD-500 would arrive. This would feature a five bladed rotor and T tail. These aircraft would be produced as version for the Special Operations teams starting with the MH-6E. This would lead later to the AH/MH-6J. This improved helo based on the MD500MG would be used for transport and attack, it features an improved engine, FLIR, and GPS/Inertial navigation. The Ah-6 can usually be seen equipped with a lightweight universal mounting platform which has two M134 mini guns and two M260 7 shot Hydra 70 rocket pods. However they can carry a variety of other weapons including Hellfire missiles, stinger missiles, 40mm grenade launchers or .50 cal machine guns. The AH/MH-6 also referred to as the Mission Enhanced Little Bird (MELB), it is a highly modified version of the MD 530 series commercial helicopter. The Kit This is a re-issue tooling from KittyHawk who seem to be bringing us helicopters we want just recently. The kit arrives on three sprues of light grey plastic, a clear sprue, two smallish sheets of photo etch, and a small decal sheet. Included in this boxing is a set of six resin figure. Even in 1/35 scale the helicopter is not what you would call large, hence the "Little Bird" name. It was hoped these vaients would be tooled as some of the parts were in earlier boxings. Construction starts with not with the cockpit but with the engine and its mounting. The 16 part engine is first constructed, this is then attached to its mounting. The engine bay is then made up and the engine added. The modeller can now breathe easy and move back to the cockpit / cabin interior. The centre instrument console is built up with instruments and MFDs being supplied as decals. In this scale I think PE might have been better suited to this. The cyclic controls are also connected to the centre console at this point. The forward bulkhead is then made up with the pilots seats added, PE seatbets are supplied here. Collective controls and other parts are added at this point. The rudder pedals are now made up and attached to the cabin floor. The modeller is now faced with two choices for the back of the helo. Either the cross member support and side planks are fitted for carrying troops, or the lightweight universal mounting platform is added for mounting weapons. The weapons support is the more intricate structure as it contains the weapons mounts and ammunition boxes. The mountings and centre console are then fitted to the cabin floor. If fitting for weapons then an additional ammunition box is mounted in the back. The engine and bay assembly is then added to the cabin floor. Moving on to the fuselage halves holes need to be opened up for various parts, once done the cabin assembly can then be fitted into them, and they are closed up. The main nose glazing can then be added along with the front doors. Its worth noting that in most pictures of these helos the doors are not fitted, but consult your references as always. The clamshell doors for the engine compartment can now be added. These do have detail inside of them and it would seem a shame to close them up and cover all the engine detail. If making an armed helo then the next stage deals with the various armament options, though it would seem only the mini guns are dealt with in instructions? again here its really upto the modeller to consult their references as the weapons fits differed from mission to mission. If fitting the mini guns then the PE sheet has detailed feed chutes for these, but they are supplied in plastic, though the way they run in the instructions is not the same as photos I have seen. The skids are built up and added next. Various and multiple aerials are added to the fuselage along with the back doors (if you want to fit them). The tailboom and tail rotor is then made up and added to the fuselage. The last item then to finish is the main rotor assembly. The mount is made up and then the five blades are added to the hub. The blade which are nicely curved fit onto pins on the hub which seems a positive step. The whole assembly can then be mounted to the top of the helo. Clear Parts These arrive in the now trademark cardboard box for added protection (something other kit manufactures should take note of). At first glance they do not look that great, and certainly not as good as the UH-1 I recently reviewed. The large single front part does appear slightly pebbly at first, but when held the appropriate distance as would be used on the model the appearance does improve some. Decals Decals are provided on one small sheet as these aircraft due to the nature of their work dont carry many markings, Decals are provided for 4 machines; AH-6M - 25358 US Army MH-6M - 25377 US Arny MH-6M - 25361 US Army MH-6M - 25356 US Army Figures There are 6 resin figures compete with weapons supplied with the kit. There are two helicopter crew men; the Pilot seated in the helicopter, and the Co-pilot standing outside with his personal weapon. There are then four Special forces who are by the looks of them withdrawing to the helicopter foe extraction. On figure carries an incapacitated one, while two others proved cover (one standing and one kneeling). Where the figures are carrying/using weapons the hands of the figures are moulded to their weapons and not the figures. The quality of the sculpting and casting for the figures and their weapons is excellent. There is however no information about them in the instructions at all. Conclusion A comprehensive kit of an iconic helicopter which is let down slightly I feel by the instructions. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
  16. UH-1N Twin Huey (KH80158) 1:48 Kitty Hawk The original UH-1 is probably one of the most well-known shapes when it comes to rotary-winged aircraft, or helicopters as us civilians call them. The Twin Huey was initially developed to meet a requirement expressed by the Canadians, which saw the Bell 205 stretched to accommodate an additional engine and increased load carrying capacity. After the initial purchase by Canada, there was some political wrangling regarding the manufacturing location of the engines, but eventually around 300 airframes were procured and given the US Military designation UH-1N. It saw service in Vietnam, where its one-engine flight capability gave it the advantage over the single-engined Huey, which didn't fare too well without engines in a combat zone. The US Marines added an electronic stability system to a number of their airframes, removing the stability bar from above the main rotor, which is something to look out for if you're planning on building a particular aircraft. From the 1970s onward they have been in continuous service with incremental upgrades, with USMC remanufactured 1Ns being renamed 1Y and given the aggressive name, Venom, but also being referred to in service as Yankees. There are simplified civilian versions of the 1N, which is known as the Bell 212, and quite a long list of military operators both past and present, including the Argentinians during the Falklands War. The Kit This is a revision and reboxing of the UH-1Y Venom we reviewed here in 2015, and the earlier (but later release) single-engined UH-1D here in 2017. While it arguably shares more heritage with the later Venom, the sprue layout is completely different from the Venom, but includes two of the newer sprues from the UH-1D boxing. The rest are new tool, including the clear parts, the Photo-Etch (PE) sheet and the decal sheet, totalling four sprues in a pale grey styrene, one in clear, a PE sheet, a set of three resin figures in a separate vacformed container, and combined instruction and colour painting guide. The clear parts are also safely cocooned in a flat box with a bag protecting the parts from chaffing during transit and storage. Looking over the sprues there is a lot of really nice detail on the parts, with judicious use of slide-moulding to achieve fine detail in areas such as the underside of the fuselage, nose, rotor head and some hollow parts. Construction begins with the rotor head for a change, which includes the stabilising bar and linkage that was sometimes removed from USMC airframes. The two blades have finely rendered stacked plates at their root, and have a slight droop moulded-in, which are composite so shouldn't droop as can be seen from numerous pictures. The best way of correcting this is heating the plastic in hot water and bending them back straight, then quenching them with cold water. Not a major impediment to progress, but a bit of a boo-boo. The tail boom is next with optional PE slime-lights, the two blade tail rotor and the fins on each side, along with a skid and a pair of sensors at the bottom of the main fin. Two PE mesh grilles are included for the fin root, which will need bending to suit the shape of the recess into which they fit. The crew cab floor is next, and is fitted with a full set of controls for the flight crew with cyclic and collective sticks for each pilot, separated by a central console, and two perforated dividers in the nose, which supports the upper section and allows the detailed instrument panel and coaming to be set in position. The pilot seats are made up from a main chassis, with additional cushion fitted to the back, and the framework added to the back and underside. A pair of PE belts are looped over the back of the seats out of the way, then they are glued into their rails on the floor, and a boxed in section and rear bulkhead are added at the rear, ready for the passenger seats that comprise six positions in a line across the cab, and two pairs either side of the aft section. Each seat is sat on a tubular frame, and has a pair of PE lap belts draped over them, and here annealing them in a flame will help make them more malleable to improve the drape. Attention then shifts to the engine compartment, with the aft end of a pair of Pratt & Whitney T400 turboshafts pushed through holes in the front of the engine compartment, adding some of the detail you will find in there (a canvas for the super-detailer), and the flattened exhausts sitting on top. Another bulkhead attaches to the fronts of the engines on a pair of lugs, with the intake phase added to the other side of the first bulkhead. The cockpit and engine assemblies are then married up and sandwiched between the two fuselage halves after adding the winch bay to the inside. My review sample had received a bit of damage to the thin upper door edge on the port side, but it was easy enough to fix with a bit of glue and some patience as you can see below, but check your example just in case. The forward edges of the side doors are bulked out with additional parts, then the passenger cab's roof, which consists of inner and outer skin, is added and finished off with extra detail at the front, plus the beginnings of the rotor "hump" and intakes on the top. At the rear the long faceted exhaust trunks are glued to the rear of the curved section, with a radiator slung underneath. The exhausts are made up from two parts split top and bottom, and with careful fitting, you can minimise the seam, then take a view on whether it needs further work. The engine compartment is then boxed in with the top cowling, side cowling sections, and smaller PE access panels that you can choose to leave open if you're proud of your work on the engine bays. Boxing in of the nose is next, with the solid upper section, clear lower windows, and the underside panel with the mount for the FLIR turret moulded in. Now we get to play with the resin figures, which are really rather nicely moulded. The two pilots are fitted into their seats after painting, one with his hands on the controls, the other operating the overhead controls. There is another figure included depicting the door gunner, but his location isn't shown although it's pretty clear he's intended to be in a door… with a gun. The crew cab doors are made up from inner and outer panels, plus the clear window in the top section. The smaller front side door is also made up and installed at this point, then the main canopy is fitted out with the overhead console that pilot two is fiddling with, along with a fire extinguisher for…. Fires. Once the cab is complete, the skids are made up and installed under the fuselage in their recesses, adding a number of PE parts for detail along the way. With the fuselage on its back, the FLIR turret, antennae and cable-cutter are put in place all along the underside, with more PE parts such as tie-down lugs added along the way. A similar festooning of the top surface is carried out, including sensors, wipers and grab handles etc. Now for the fun part, the weapons installation, although they're only applicable to two of the decal options, which may colour your decision if you like things that go "BANG!" like I do. There are two installations, one on each side, each attached to the fuselage via a curved bracket that is topped with a gun mount for either a .50cal Browning, or the optional multi-barrel Vulcan mini-gun. A grab bar is attached either side of the mounts, and underneath is suspended one of a choice of rocket packs, holding 19 x Hydra 70 rockets in the wider tube, or 6 of the more modern Advanced Precision Kill Weapon System (APKWS) in the narrow tube. Each pod has a two-part body, and two end caps with rocket and exhaust details moulded in. If you're using the weapons, you leave the side doors back at base, but if you're depicting one of the less combative options, you'll need to put two glazing panels into each one, then fit them in place open, closed, or anywhere in between. All that's left to do after that is add the main rotor assembly from the top, and the tail butts up to the rear of the fuselage. Now for some paint. Markings There are six options in the box, only two of which are geared for war. There is a good selection of colourful options and we're not just limited to shades of grey, which is nice. From the box you can build one of the following: US Navy UH-1N #158278 US Navy Rescue UH-1N #158272 USMC UH-1N #158549 USAF UH-1N #96640 USAF UH-1N #96645 USMC UH-1N #160178 A quick Google search showed #158549 to be fitted with the stabilising bar as shown in the instructions, but sadly, #160178 was lost in an accident along with her crew when it collided with another aircraft whilst using Night Vision Goggles (NVG) on exercise in Oman in the early 90s, with no pictures readily available. The decals are printed closely together on a medium sized sheet and appear in good register and well-printed. There are a few typos in the smaller stencil decals that probably won't notice, but the "Danger Jet Intake" decals have a typo that may well gain some attention, as it says "intke". It's an oopsie we could have done without, and there's no easy way to fix it. The letters M and P on the tail of the first Marine airframe look like they've got a print issue as they're two-toned, but that's correct, due to the darker grey on the leading edge of the tail. The carrier film is printed closely to the edge of the printing, but a few have a slight lip on the upper edge that may be peculiar to my sample. Conclusion Another Huey from Kitty Hawk, and as usual with their kits, as long as you pay attention, test fit and adjust where necessary, it should build into a nice replica of this important and well-loved helo. I'm currently torn between the attractive red/white rescue bird and one of the Marine aircraft that are loaded for bear. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
  17. Hello gents, Let me say it straight. I waited 50 years for this kit. The RF-101 has been one of my favourite airplanes since, as a schoolboy, I saw one roaring over our home in Saigon like a giant lizard. So when last year Kitty Hawk released their 1/48 Voodoo, I knew the wait was over. Of course, the kit is not perfect. People in forums complained about the multiple inaccuracies, the terrible fit, the bucketload of putty needed,… but then … this my chance of a lifetime to build it. So I took the plunge and do what we, old timers, have always done: buy the kit, marvel at the box art, fondle the plastic, correct the mistakes, add some detail and voilà. This is not a step-by-step WIP per se, rather some notes about problems I encountered, how I fixed them and also about the inaccuracies, how I corrected them. I hope some of you will find it helpful. FIRST IMPRESSIONS The kit looks very nice: the light gray plastic is smooth, rather soft and easy to work with. The surface detail is delicate as are the panel lines. The parts are well moulded while being rather basic, are accurate and cry out to be detailed. The fit the main parts is very positive, no Tamiya but definitively Hasegawa. Like other new kits from China, the assembly is very precise – there is almost no tolerance. Parts have to be carefully prepared before gluing. Frequent dry fitting is a must! Like with most recent kits, the instructions are drawings only – no text. I suggest you only use them to locate the parts. At any time do not follow the assembly sequence. Instead study the kit and the way the different components fit together. Make up your own assembly sequence. Apart from the Eduard Interior photoetch set, I'm not using any aftermarket stuff. Printed documentation come in two ancient magazines lent by old IPMS comrades. The main documentation comes from the internet. Thank you for watching, Cheers, Quang NEXT STEP: THE COCKPIT
  18. Being first in I claim this STGB in the name of the Colonies! I have been waiting a while for this one to come, a chance to reduce the stash by a miniscule (it’s about to be re-filled) and a chance to add another RAAF beast to the collection and finally to build something I haven’t built before. So enter Eduard’s (Hasegawa) Limited Edition 1/32nd Warhawk P-40N……in a ridiculously huge box!!! There’s no photo’s of that as it was the first thing to go! Now in a smaller box with all the non-required parts removed, takes up way less space. I must say it does look to be beautifully moulded with nice fine details……. ……being a Eduard re-box it comes with some nice basic goodies…… ……plus a ridiculously huge decal sheet as well! Why not just do it in two sheets I don't know, it'd make storing them safely so much easier….. …… and finally being a Limited Edition release it comes with these “extras”, a poster of the cover picture along with an embossed metal plate with raised detail in all the right places!!! Is that it…..nup, it wouldn’t be a trickyrich build without some extras ………. ….Eduard’s love new Zoom series IP and Master Model Gun Barrel & Detail set. Finally the scheme, for me it couldn’t be anything else than a RAAF P-40, we used around 840 of them and they were an incredibly important aircraft for us during the war and played a critical role in some battles. So I’ll be using a lovely set of Ventura Decals for a RAAF P-40N Kittyhawk Mk.VI. The actual aircraft is “Watch my form”, a 79 Squadron P-40N-15 A-29-572 off Noemfoor Island (a tiny island just of West Papua) around late 1944. Here is an extract from the ADF Serials website for this particular aircraft; (this is from the decal sheet......... hmmm I wonder what the "Pink Highlights" are they're talking about!! ) served with 80 Sqn and 78 Sqn; on 10/2/44 received by 80 Sqn from 15 ARDRP; on 13/6/44 received by 78 Sqn from 22 RSU where it had gone for an engine change from 80 Sqn; on 19/8/44 while dodging ack-ack fire over the target the starboard wing struck a tree with P/O Richard Roy Cowley (405834) flying it home without further incident; on 13/9/44 received back at 78 Sqn from 22 RSU; on 8/1/45 it crashed while W/O Geoffrey James Bellamy (432737)was taking off at Wama strip Morotai when it blew out the port tyre and at the time was coded HU-P and had inherited the nose art of "Watch My Form"; on 15/1/45 approval was given to convert to components. I’m looking forward to this one, it should be a nice simple straightforward build for me for a change. One final interesting fact, Flt. Lieutenant Clive Caldwell (formally Group Captain) RAAF was the highest scoring P-40 pilot form any air force, 22 victories, he finished the war on 28.5.
  19. In the recently released test shot pictures from the future 1/48th Kittyhawk Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-25PD/PDS "Foxbat-E" - ref.KH80119 - there was also a two-seat Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-25PU "Foxbat-C" test shot - ref.KH80136. Source: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2013/08/kittyhawks-48th-scale-foxbat1-seater.html V.P.
  20. I have to say first of all this was one of the nicest models I've built for a while, it really was Hasegawa (Eduard re-box) at their very best. Now the sad bit is that they are (the P-40N) no longer in production and what few that are out there command frightening sums! She was built for the Curtiss P-36/-70/-40 STGB and I thought it would be a slowish build but once started I couldn't help myself. So in little over 2 weeks she was done, a real testament to just how nice this model was and how well she goes together. The only extras were Eduard's new Zoom Instrument Panel and Master Model's Gun Barrel set. The decals were from Ventura and are easily some of the best out there, they were just some nice to use. Thanks for looking and lease enjoy. Model: Eduard 1/32nd Curtiss P-40N Warhawk Paint: Mr Paint Lacquers plus Tamiya & Mr Hobby Acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Extras: Eduard Zoom Instrument Panel Master Model P-40E-N detail set Ventura decals – AVG & RAAF P-40M & N’s The build is dedicated to the pilots and ground crew of 78 Squadron RAAF.
  21. I've got myself the new Special Hobby 1/72 Kittyhawk Mk III (P-40K) and I want to check the colours for the RNZAF one on the box art. The instructions say Foliage Green on top and Grey-Green (I think they mean RAF Sky Type S) underneath. Would this be correct? The Special Hobby P-40 kits are brilliant btw, everyone should make one! thanks Mike
  22. Kitty Hawk / Panda Hobby catalog 2019... A glimpse Sources: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2376754302583181&set=a.1874930699432213&type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/groups/369828906819827/permalink/689993798136668/ https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68170&start=12000 A recap of (past) informations and rumours. Time will tell... (updated on September 12th, 2019) 1/72 - ref. KH16101 – Lockheed Martin F-35A Lightning II link - ref. KH16102 – Lockheed Martin F-35B Lightning II link - ref. KH16103 – Lockheed Martin F-35C Lightning II link 1/48 - ref. KH80107 – Eurocopter SA.365F Dauphin II link - released - ref. KH80123 – Kamov Ka-52 Alligator "Hokum-B" link - ref. KH80124 – Bell UH-1Y Venom boxing 2.0 link - ref. KH80125 – Bell AH-1Z Viper boxing 2.0 link - ref. KH80133 – McDonnell Douglas F2H-3/4 Banshee link - ref. KH80136 – Mikoyan MiG-25PU "Foxbat-C" link - released - ref. KH80139 – CAIC WZ-10 link - ref. KH80152 – Vought F6U Pirate link - ref. KH80153 – Vought F7U-3/3M Cutlass link - ref. KH80155 – North American FJ-2 Fury link - released - ref. KH80156 – North American FJ-3 Fury link - ref. KH80158 – Bell UH-1N Twin Huey link - released - ref. KH80159 – Ural 4320 + APA-5D link - released - ref. KH80160 – MJ-1/MHU-83/MHU-141/MHU-191 Munitions Lift Trucks link - released - ref. KH80161 – Russian weapons loading carts link - released - ref. KH80163 – Sukhoi Su-27SM "Flanker-B" link - ref. KH80164 – Bell AH-1W Whisky Cobra link - ref. KH80166 – Sukhoi Su-25K "Frogfoot-A" link - ref. KH80168 – Sukhoi Su-27UB "Flanker-C" link - ref. KH80169 – Sukhoi Su-30MK "Flanker-C" link - ref. KH8016? – Sukhoi Su-25T "Frogfoot-B" link - ref. KH80175 – Shenyang J-11 PLAAF "Flanker" family link - ref. KH80177– Sukhoi Su-25UB "Frogfoot-B" link - ref. KH801?? – Sukhoi Su-57 "Felon" link - ref. KH801?? – Grumman F-11 Tiger link - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-28 "Havoc" link - ref. KH801?? – Kamov Ka-50 "Hokum-A" - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-24D/V "Hind-D/-E" link - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-24P "Hind-F" - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-35 "Hind-E" - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-24V "Hind" - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-8 "Hip-C" - ref. KH801?? – Mil Mi-17 "Hip-H" 1/35 - ref. KH50001 – Bell UH-1D Huey link - ref. KH50004 – Bell AH-6J/MH-6J Little Bird (with figures) link - released - ref. KH50005 – Sikorsky MH-60L Black Hawk link - released - ref. KH50006 – Sikorsky HH-60G Pave Hawk link - released - ref. KH50007 – Sikorsky SH-60F Ocean Hawk link - ref. KH50008 – Sikorky MH-60R Sea Hawk link - ref. KH50009 – Sikorsky SH-60B Sea Hawk link - ref. KH50010 – Sikorsky MH-60R Sea Hawk - ref. KH50010X – Sikorsky MH-60R Sea Hawk HSM-78 "Blue Hawks" - ref. KH50010X – Sikorsky MH-60R Sea Hawk HSM-71 "Raptors" - ref. KH50010X – Sikorsky MH-60S Knight Hawk HSC-4 "Black Knights" - ref. KH50015 – Sikorsky MH-60S Knight Hawk link 1/32 - ref. KH32017 – Grumman F-11 Tiger link - ref. KH32020 – Dassault Mirage 2000C link - released - ref. KH32021 – Dassault Mirage 2000B link - ref. KH32022 – Dassault Mirage 2000D/N link - released - ref. KH32023 – Northrop RF-5E Tigereye link - released - ref. KH32025 – Focke Wulf Fw.190A-5 link - ref. KH32026 - Focke Wulf Fw.190A-8A-8 link - ref. KH320?? – SEPECAT Jaguar A link - ref. KH320?? – SEPECAT Jaguar GR.1/.3 link - ref. KH320?? – SEPECAT Jaguar E/T.2 link - ref. KH320?? – Northrop F-5A Freedom Fighter link - ref. KH320?? – Northrop F-5B Freedom Fighter link - ref. KH320?? – Republic RF-84F Thunderflash link - ref. KH320?? – Republic F-84F Thunderstreak link V.P.
  23. Hi all, When I was eight, my Dad came home from work with an Airfix Kittyhawk in a blister pack, which we built together that evening. It was bare plastic, decals stuck on any old how, but it was fun. It started me on the model making hobby, and ten years later I built the same kit, but this time painted to the best of my ability at the time just to see how much I'd improved. I still have both of those builds, and the second one is nowhere near as good as I thought it was at the time! 34 years later I decided to try again, in 1/48th scale this time, and here's the result. I did make one absolute howler during construction, which was only discovered when it was too late to do anything about it...I'll keep quiet about it unless anybody spots it. Azure Blue and Mid Stone paints were mixed from Tamiya acrylics, and weathering was achieved with a mixture of washes, pastels, post shading and actual chipping. The roundels and markings were toned down by masking around them and fading them with heavily thinned Deck Tan. It's quite heavily weathered in real life, but it doesn't show up too well in photos. So, here's Neville Duke's Kittyhawk sitting in the African sun after seeing quite a bit of action: Evolution...aged eight, eighteen and fifty two: Hope you like it, Dean
  24. Sukhoi Su-17 M3/M4 Fitter-K 1:48 Kittyhawk The Su-17, with its NATO reporting name Fitter was derived from the earlier Su-7 as a project to improve its low speed handling, particularly during take-off and landing. It was Sukhoi's first attempt at variable geometry wings, and when it reached service was the Soviet Union's first swing-wing aircraft in service. To keep the project costs down, the centre section of the wing remained fixed, with the outer able to swing back for high-speed flight, and forward for slow. A pronounced spine was also added to the rear of the cockpit to carry additional fuel and avionics that were necessary with the advances in aviation. The first airframes reached service in the early 70s, and were soon replaced by more advanced models with the designation M3 and M4, designated Fitter-H and –K respectively by the Allies. The M3 was based on a larger fuselage and had additional weapons options, while the M4 was further developed and was considered to be the pinnacle of the Fitter line with a heavily upgraded avionics suite including improved targeting, navigation, and yet more weapons options, as well as improved engines. A downgraded version of the M4 was marketed as the Su-22M4, and was in production until 1990! Although the Su-17 was withdrawn from Soviet service in the late 1990s, it remained in service much longer in its export guise, where it was used by both Iran and Iraq, Libya and Angola to name but a few, where it had variable success, which likely had as much to do with pilot skill and training as the merits of the airframe. The Kit A new Su-17 model has been needed for a few years now in 1:48, and this is a new tooling from Kittyhawk that dropped onto our radar relatively recently. The previous best kit was getting a bit long in the tooth, and needed plenty of TLC to coax a good model out of it. The box is fairly standard Kittyhawk (KH) fare, with a pair of Su-17s in formation on the lid, and inside, plenty of plastic in their familiar pale grey styrene. The sprues are large, and it appears that their annoying habit of folding sprues over while still warm is dying out slowly, with detail and crispness on the increase. Gone also are the large ejector-pin turrets in every intake, although a few are still there in the engine parts, but won't be seen. The fuselage is split fore-aft, which hopefully means we'll be treated to a two-seat UM in due course, but as always don't hold your breath, just cross your fingers. The usual generosity in terms of weapons and stores is still present, with almost a third of the sprues devoted to things to hang off your finished model, which is always nice to see. Inside the box are nine sprues in light grey styrene, one in clear, a small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and two decal sheets, one of which is substantially larger than the other. The instruction booklet completes the package, and first impressions are good – it might even get a build review if I can find the time! Construction begins with the ejection seat, which is nicely detailed with PE belts included, which show a lot more detail than previous efforts from KH, which is good to see. The cockpit is built from a series of parts, including the control column, rudder pedals, side consoles and the instrument panel, the last two of which have decals provided for the instrument details. The coaming and HUD are added to the front of the cockpit, with a clear part forming the HUD glazing. Following this the engine is constructed from quite a number of parts, with only the aft end visible if you left off the aft fuselage section, which is possible although not considered in the instructions. The exhaust nozzle is built from sections and surrounded by a ring, showing the actuators around its circumference, which when painted should give a good impression of the original. The engine and exhaust are then sandwiched between the forward part of the aft fuselage, and the aft part of the aft fuselage (confused yet?) is built up with air-brake bays and added around the exhaust. Jumping around somewhat confusingly, the tail with separate rudder is then made up, followed by the nose gear bay, which is again made from individual panels for extra detail. The gear leg is fitted at this stage, but with some care could be left off until later if you feel it would be safer to do that. The cockpit, nose bay and the intake shock-cone (including clear panel) and then trapped between the forward fuselage halves, and this is mated to the aft section, at which point the avionics spine is added in sections, which overlap the fuselage joints for strength. Detailing the fuselage with a host of small, delicate parts seems a little optimistic to this ham-fisted modeller, but if you fancy your chances, go ahead. There are a number of scabbed-on chaff and flare dispensers down the fuselage sides, which are provided with PE attachment brackets that will require a little bending to put in position, so steel yourself if you're not a big fan of PE. The twin prongs on the nose are also added, the pitot probe having all the usual vanes added from styrene parts that are VERY small, so take care not to lose them. The windscreen fits to the sill around the coaming, and the canopy is designed to be posed open, with a styrene fitment to the rear that mates with the notch behind the cockpit. At this stage of the build your Fitter looks little more than a fancy tube with a wheel at one end and a fin at the other. The wings are built as assemblies next, although I'd be tempted to leave off the gear again for fear of breakage, but the instruction advise otherwise. The main gear legs are single parts with three small ancillary struts, one of which stabilises the large captive bay door that hangs down outboard of the leg. The gear bay roof detail is moulded into the underside of the upper wing, while the walls are added separately, as are the optionally open gun bays in the leading edge of the inner wing section. The outer wings are made up from a single centre section with separate flaps and slats, which then attach to a pin in the outer edge of the inner wing section, held in place after the addition of the lower half. A small bay door, actuator jack for the gear and the aforementioned gun bay doors are added underneath, and above the two large strakes fit into their respective slots. Repeat in a mirror for the other wing, and you're done. The wing roots fit into their slots in the fuselage, where you will also find an inner main bay wall, so remember to paint that when you're doing the rest of the bay, or you'll end up cursing. The elevators are both single parts that fit on a pivoting pin, and with the addition of the inner wing flap sections that's the main build done. As already mentioned, there are a substantial quantity of weapons for the many pylons on the inner wings and belly. The decision to place all the weapons on the static parts of the airframe saved money and weight developing rotating pylon mounts such as those seen on the Panavia Tornado. In the box you get the following: 2 x BETAB-500 iron bombs 2 x OFAB-250-SZN iron bombs 4 x FAB-250-M54 iron bombs 4 x FAB-250-M62 iron bombs 4 x SAB-100 flare 2 x RBK-500-250 cluster bomb 2 x FAB-500-M54 iron bombs 2 x Fuel Tanks 1 x SPS-141 ECM Pod 2 x B-13 122mm rocket pod 4 x F2B-250-TS iron bomb 2 x KH-23 Kerry missile with APU-68 adaptor rail 1 x SPPU-22 23mm gun pod 2 x UBK-23 gun pods 2 x B-8M rocket pods 2 x S-25L rocket 2 x UB-32 rocket pods BATAB-500-ZD bunker buster bomb 2 x S-24 rocket 2 x R-73 Archer A2A missile 2 x R-60 Aphid short-range A2A missile 1 x KKR-1T Recce pod Quite a list! The parts are all well-detailed, with separate fins and nosecones where applicable, exhausts and other parts including further adapter rails all supplied. The decal sheet contains stencils for them all, with a double page giving a complete stencilling and painting guide. Markings There are a generous seven decal options with the kit, all of which is detailed in the centre pages of the instruction booklet, folding out to double size, which although it disrupts the flow of the construction a tad is an improvement on their early kits, as you at least get a full set of profiles from the major angles, and it is all of a reasonable size. These pages are in colour, and you can pull them out of the booklet if you feel the need, which I did a moment ago. From the box you can build one of the following: Su-17M3R 313 ORAP based at Vizavi Bagram, May 1988 – green/earth camouflage over blue undersides wearing red 01. Su-17M4 43rd OMShAE, Black Sea Fleet, Gvardeiskoe Field, Crimea, Jan 1998 - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing yellow 40. Su-17M4 274th APIB, Afghanistan 1988 - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing blue 23. Su-17M3 Russian Air Force, red 95 – all over natural metal. Su-17M4R 886th ORAP, 15th VA Afghanistan war - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing blue 07. Su-17M3 red 50 – green upper over blue undersides. Su-17M4 Ukrainian Air Force – green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing Yellow 50. Previously, Kittyhawk's decals have been of variable quality, but there is an improvement in this sheet, although there is a small mis-registration of the white or red that affects a couple of the decals with borders, but it shouldn't notice too much. Otherwise the other colours are in good register, sharpness is better, as is colour density. The smaller sheet contains the instrument panels and some emblems that required a different printing process. Conclusion A modern tooling of this aircraft, with its aggressive look and wide use, was long overdue and this scale and now it's here. Detail is good from the box, the weapons provided are unbelievably generous in scope and quantity, and improvements to the engineering and finish of the kit appear to have been made. I haven't been over the kit with a fine toothed-comb checking each rivet yet, but I'm sure any inconsistencies will come out in the wash, as no kit made by imperfect beings such as us can be absolutely perfect. The discussion has started already in the Rumourmonger forum for those that are interested here. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops.
  25. I'm currently building the new Special Hobby P-40K and was wondering if the RNZAF and RAAF versions would have used US or RAF type seatbelts? Any suggestions? Thanks Peter
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