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  1. Hi All, I hope the Hosts won't mind me throwing another chapeau into the ring while I've already got one build in progress in this GB? I'm not sure whether this one will make across the line, but we'll see how it goes. What, you may ask, is a Nieuport-Delage NiD 42S? To be honest, until a couple of days ago I had no idea either! Two were built to compete in air races with one, flown by Joseph Sadi-Lecointe, winning the 1924 Coupe Beaumont. Nieuport's designer, Gustave Delage, drew heavily on the company's concurrent fighter designs - they were very much "developers" rather than "innovators" - for the NiD 42S, and thus the fuselage is virtually identical to the NiD 42C.1 parasol-wing fighter (hence also the NiD 622 - see where I'm going here?), but with the wings mounted at shoulder height. The engine used was a variant of the fighter's unit, a Hispano-Suiza 12Hb developing 600hp. The radiators were incorporated into the upper surfaces of the wings. Nieuport-Delage also incorporated an aerofoil on the undercarriage axle, and referred to the aircraft as a "sesquiplan"! The NiD 42S' cockpit was positioned slightly further aft than that of the 42C.1, which was possible due to the method of manufacture where a hollow plywood fuselage was built in two halves around formers, joined, and an 'ole for the driver's head was cut out. The completed fuselage was then covered in doped fabric et Robert est le frère de ta mère. There are a few leads on t'interweb, but finding a drawing has been quite difficult. A couple turn up in other articles, and are in any case relatively small. However, they can be enlarged and printed, and their scale determined using known dimensions. Here are some links in case anyone is interested: Wikipedia AviaFrance Les Ailes 19 Juin 1924 The Last Racer Produced by Nieuport There is also a similar build here on Modelling Madness, which in part inspired the one I'm planning, although the builder does confuse the designations a bit and what he actually built is a 1921 Coupe Deutch de Meurthe racer, not a NiD 42S. There seem to be very few photographs which show the upper surfaces of the wings, so some guesswork and cross-pollination from other similarly-equipped aircraft will probably be needed. Interior? Who knows; probably very sparse! Colour scheme? I would imagine a rather fetching shade of Bleu Français and aluminium dope/polished aluminium. For the basis of this kitbash, I'm using Heller's venerable Nieuport-Delage NiD 622. Obligatory box and sprue shots: http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// There we are, then. Should be an interesting little project without being too taxing Cheers for now, Mark
  2. I've read the various threads on Britmodeller regarding the lack of a Spitfire XII in 1/72 and the various options for making one but I'd like some simplification of where the various bits would come from to do my own kitbash. I understand that I need the C wing which I can get from the Airfix Vc. I understand that I need a Griffon engine and 5-blade prop which I can get from a Fujimi XIV Where I'm confused is with the rest of it. Could I also use the Vc fuselage as far back as the tail? Which mark of Spitfire would I need to source the tail (fin and rudder) from? I believe that the retractable tailwheel was not fitted to all airframes. Many thanks. Clive.
  3. I’ve wanted to build a piloted Mech/Powersuit with the driver in an open roll cage for a while now. I recently picked up a set of Polish tank crew figures and decided to have a go. I don’t really have a clear design in mind, other than I’d like to have exaggerated, cartoon proportions, with large arms and shoulders and small legs. Kind of like Bluto from the Popeye cartoons. I started by building the seat out of some leftover polystyrene scraps. The joysticks and foot rest are Gundam parts. They’re kind of chunky and possibly scale-breakers, but I’m playing this one fast and loose. Next, I built up a frame to support the huge arms. This was printed in five parts and assembled around the chair. On either side of the pilots head , I drilled the mounting holes for the roll cage. This will (hopefully) be bent up from some acrylic rod. A bit hard to see, but the black textured piece behind the drivers head is from a video cassette. I also filled out the back with sheet styrene and started to add some kit part details. Under the seat, I’ve added a piece to attach the legs to. I’m happy so far, but slightly unsettled as I have no real plan. I will trust that the Spare-box Muse will lead me down the golden path to kitbash Elysium. that’s it for now. Thanks for looking in. Pete
  4. Hello everyone. Let's all hope for a happier new year. Some time back, I acquired a DB Models F4H-1 Phantom II Prototype conversion kit for the Hasegawa F4B/N kit. I had earlier decided that building this combo would be my first build of the New Year. But, after successfully building my kit-bash of the Republic XP47J, and with new-found courage, I decided instead to swim upstream again! After all, how many of us 1/72 modelers are going to ever be able to find such a conversion kit (or possibly afford one!). The odds aren't good. SO, I decided to fight back, and see whether any reasonably skilled modeler could do it themselves, without an expensive conversion kit. This will be that attempt -- wish me luck! In any event, I have determined to try and use NO part of the conversion kit, although I WILL use the parts to help convert my own, and to gather the info on how to do so, which I will pass on to you. Here's the Hasegawa kit, one just re-released. The Hasegawa kit has a few irritating small fit issues, which can be overcome. Also an old complaint of this kit are very fine panel lines -- probably close to scale! -- which will mostly be obliterated in some areas. I can live with that, as all I want is the shape of that very first F4, and I will be happy. I sort of suspect that any of these Hasegawa F4 kits could possibly be used, but I'm not certain that all of the kits come with all of the optional parts parts that will help here. Other maker's kits -- I have no idea. Above right, the DB set comes with new intakes, a nose, and some metal parts, such as an ejection seat, nose probe instrument panels (plain) and some very nice decals. I shall shamelessly copy these as closely as possible, but out of plastic, except for the decals, of course. In looking at the project, it seems to me that the hardest conversion would be the intakes, so that's where I'll begin, on the theory that if I can't get past that, why continue? Just quit and fall back on the conversion set? As seen below, the Hasegawa kit (hereinafter referred to as "HAS") has two parts for the intake backplate, kit parts J3,4,5, and 6. They are shown in the photo as temporarily joined together: A little work to do here, to remove the front edge, leaving about 4.5mm as shown, and removing completely the other more-or-less arrow shaped parts on top and bottom. Above right, the modified parts are on the left, the stock kit parts on the right. The arrow points to where the tips of the splitter should be rounded slightly; in the case the upper one perhaps a little too rounded. Next, looking at the right intake, when the front edge of the splitter is shortened, it the becomes too thick at the leading edge, and needs to be thinned item "B". Line "A - A " needs to be glued up as straight and flat as possible, as the thinning will change the angles a bit. "C" shows where the upper leading edge if the kit intake is trimmed back a bit, to allow more gluing surface for a new front edge to be glued on: Above right, figure "C" shows the thicker, trimmed edge. My next thought was just to glue on a thin piece of plastic, which extended forward a bit more, to reshape the intake: Above right shows this idea a bit better, as well as showing the vents which will need filling. After filling and sanding on this area for a while, I soon found that getting the upper hood to curve down properly was not going very well. Suddenly, the light came on, and I determined that a curved piece added onto the front would would work much better, giving material to make the hooded, curved shape required. So I used a strip of the same plastic, held it over a screwdriver with a 8mm diameter shaft, and used a paint stripper gun set on medium heat to warm the plastic. As soon as it got warm enough, I set down the heat gun and used my fingers to bend the softened plastic into a 90-degree curved shape: Above right, this gives a better material around the curve. I suspect that a hair dryer, even the flame from a candle might work as well, care taken NOT to burn the fingers! Below, preliminary result are looking good compared to the resin parts. Just needs more refinement of the leading edge on both pieces: Above right, the toughest part of all may be replicating these vents, shown atop the DB Models resin part. Fellow modeler JohnR accomplished this on his build of a few years back, by using some decals, which he has stated he will try to find the masters of for my use here. Anyway, while not a build thread, his final product is outstanding! I will provide a link for your perusal HERE I doubt that my effort will look nearly as good as John's, but I will do what I can. As I've often said, I'm a much better builder than painter! Johnr, if you're watching, feel free to chime in with whatever comments or tips you'd care to share! Anyway, after a bit more massaging, they are coming along: Well, that's all for now. Hopefully, there will be more, when I figure out the next step... Thanks for looking in! Ed
  5. Life’s left me a bit short on modelling time of late, but things are calming down so I might have a chance of some bench time again. While I probably should continue with the choppers, aircraft are my main interest and this one’s been nagging away as something I want to start on. This hasn’t been helped by reading through @shortCummins and @Pete in Lincs kitbashing threads (though I do swear that the concept & kit purchase predates that). So what am I actually building then? I’ve had this kit in the stash for around a decade. Admittedly most of that time I wasn’t modelling, but coming back to the hobby this sent me on a hunt for possible colour schemes that didn’t require mottling as I don’t currently possess an airbrush and don’t fancy trying it without one. Having failed to find any, I decided to go down the whiff route and make something up, and if I’m going there, I might as well go all out. Not only is this going to be a non-military scheme, but I’m going to put it on floats as well. The backstory I’ve concocted is that at the end of the war a young American pilot managed to get his hands on a reasonably complete Fw190D-9 and “arranged” for it to make its way back home. Our intrepid pilot subsequently made his fortune in the booming economy of the early 50’s and with it had the funds to make his prize airworthy again. Living around the great lakes, he decided to fit it with floats and subsequently used it to explore the Canadian wilderness during vacations. Eventually he felt he was too old to fly and passed the plane down to his son, who had the plane restored and repainted in a livery similar to the Reno Warbirds. He decided the plane needed a name commemorating it’s interesting past, christening it “Dora die Erkunderin” (or Dora the Explorer in German). And yes, the entire backstory was conjured up so that I could make an awful dad-joke with the name of the model. As for the plastic, the main kit is (I think) the 2009 boxing of the 1976 tooling, which would explain the large amounts of flash in places. I picked up a PM Spitfire floatplane to provide the floats, with the side thought that as it’s a simple kit I might be able to convince one of the offspring to have a go at it once I’ve taken the bits I want: I’ve also picked up some etch and a resin cockpit as the Airfix kit is devoid of any real details. Neither are intended for this kit, but I’m hopeful I can make it work: At some point in the past I’ve taken some of the parts off the trees on the Fw, and assembled the prop: (Ominous drums & bass) Flash! Aa-aahhh! I think it’s safe to say I’ll be spending some time on the clean up. I’ll replace the pitot with brass tube: The PM kit has some flash issues as well, to the extent that the port tailplane slot is almost completely filled in. Luckily, I don’t need the fuselage for this build. If I can’t get the kids interested, it’ll probably become a paint mule. The floats are ok, I’ll have to do some work on the shaping of the tops of the struts to get them conforming to the underside of the Fw wings: Looks wise, I found one other D on floats, which was very nicely done https://modelingmadness.com/review/axis/luft/scze190w.htm I also found a couple of A variants on floats (including one nicely done on a 3 float Rufe-type setup), but this one captures the essence of where I’d like to be shape wise. I’m still mulling over the final paint job as well, though the main colour will be Ford Deep Impact Blue, by virtue of the fact that I’ve got a big aerosol of it to do one of the choppers and there’s more than enough to do this as well.
  6. Have been playing around with sticking bits of plastic together on a bit of a 2001/Silent Running inspired build. Started off as just a little probe, now seems to have grown into something a bit larger. Lots of Plastruct and Evergreen helping to detail this. Current progress below:
  7. Hello everybody, as I'm quite new here I decided to finally contribute something meaningful and treat you all with a build of mine. Since I'm working from home at the moment I figured this to be the perfect time to start one of my long-term projects, a Sukhoi Su-17 (Fitter-C) in 1/48. The Real thing The Su-17 started life as a project at Sukhoi to improve the low-speed and take-off/landing performance of the basic Su-7 design. Liftjets proved to be a not feasible as they were dead weight most of the time and occupied much needed space in the airframe. Variable-geometry wings on the other hand seemed to offer a perfect solution to this problem. The outer part of the Su-7 wing was redesigned to be moveable and a demonstrator, based on the Su-7BM, was built and proved successful during tests. The first Su-17 variant (Nato Code: Fitter-C) that went into production was basically an Su-7BKL with Variable-geometry wings, a dorsal spine holding additional avionics, a clamshell canopy instead of a sliding one and a hydraulic drive system for the moveable wings. Still, the performance left something to be desired compared to the Su-7. While low-speed and take-off/landing performance improved markedly, range and payload did not. This was largely because the Su-17 retained the old AL-7F engine while overall weight increased. Only with the introduction of a new engine, the AL-21F, all performance data finally improved significantly. This variant went into production as the Su-17M ("M" for "modernized"). The References The subject of my build will be “Red 16”, a Su-17 assigned to the 217th Fighter-Bomber Air regiment based at Kyzyl-Arvat (todays Serdar, Turkmenistan), patrolling the Iranian border in the early 80s. They received second-hand Fitters in 1979 to replace their old MiG-21PFMs used as fighter-bombers until then. Inspiration came from these articles from the site “easternorbat.com” (fantastic site for all Soviet aviation aficionados): http://www.easternorbat.com/html/217th_reg_su-17_bb_eng.html http://www.easternorbat.com/html/217th_regiment_80s_eng.html I have a soft spot for Soviet equipment stationed at the remote parts of the Soviet Union and in recent years, many photographs from private collections emerged, showing daily life on some of these remote spots at the edge of the red empire. Often these places lacked even basic commodities like running water: https://ok.ru/kizylarvat/album/51975801143379?st._aid=Groups_Photo_Album_List_openAlbum Then I've collected some walkarounds for detailing the kit: https://www.scalenews.de/suchoi-su-7-fitter-walkaround-46/ http://walkarounds.scalemodels.ru/v/walkarounds/avia/after_1950/su-17_omsk/ https://www.scalenews.de/ngg_tag/suchoi-su-17-walkaround-39/ http://litnik.in.ua/walkaround/reaktivnye-samolety/walkaround-su-17m-ot-peps-chast-2 The Kits Till now, there are no kits available in 1/48 to build the earlier marks of the Su-17. Therefore, the only possibility to portray one of these variants is to combine several existing kits. In this case it will be: The Kopro Su-7, which will be used mainly for its fuselage: The Hobby Boss Su-17, which will provide its wings, landing gear, weapons and various detail parts: Of course, some aftermarket help is thrown into the mix too, namely: Eduard Brassin Su-7 ejection seat Eduard photoetch Su-7 cockpit Quickboost Su-7 air Master Su-7 pitot and gun barrels Wolfpack Su-7 exhaust Reskit Su-17 wheels Master Su-17 pitot and gun barrels Although quite a complete package, some scratch building will be required too. Thanks for reading and hope to see you along my journey! Cheers Markus
  8. All: Here is ZE396, the subject of a walk-around in Britmodeller, as she appeared in the mid-80's, https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/9775977, when the world was different. Lumps and bumps came later, as did other paint schemes. She was one of the last group of four to be retired in 2015. As "working" military aircraft, these jets were clean, but not spotless. They served the RAF loyally for 30+ years. To build the CC3, I had to bash three kits together: Sword's U-125A, Matchbox's 1974 HS.125-600, and bits from Airfix's Dominie T1. I approached this build with some trepidation, but it worked out to be a fair representation of the real thing. Hope you enjoy it! ey served the RAF
  9. Hello A couple of photos with my latest kit. Arma Hobby 1/72nd PZL P.11c modified into a PZL P.11f with parts from Azur-FRROM (engine, cowling, proppeller) and IBG Models (ailerons, stab and elevator). P.11f were produced under licence at IAR Brasov and only used by Royal Romanian Air Force. Comments are welcome 001 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 002 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 003 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 004 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 005 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 006 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 007 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr 008 by Iulian Macovei, on Flickr in the last image, alongside an OOB P.11c from ArmaHobby.
  10. It should not be difficult to convert Academy's 1/72 F-4J into a C or D. Just needs Air Force inner pylons, an updated cockpit (if you are into that), a Rhino sensor for the C, and some other small sundries. All that could fit in a 10$ resin set. opinions?
  11. Dear Colleagues: As there has been some discussion on the airliner part of this forum about the relative merits of the Airfix and ESCI kits, I thought I'd share the model I finished about 10 years ago. The base kit is the 1962-vintage Fokker Troopship. To complete it as an F-27-200, I drew heavily upon others' suggestions contained on a Dutch modeler's site. I deepened the fuselage with laminated sheets of styrene, cut to the the rough shape of the underside, and modified the tail, ailerons, and engines. I ensured the cockpit retained the V-shape through its curvature. I also employed parts of the ESCI kit's nose, heat-exchanger intakes, tail fairings, landing gear, etc, as well as added LORAN antennas from an ESCI C-47. Given a choice between the two kits, I'm partial to Airfix, which gets more correct, shape-wise, than ESCI's, especially with the cockpit and engine nacelles, including the pronounced fairing that extends up and over the wing trailing edge. I tried to replicate AirUK's periwinkle blue using Southwest Canyon Blue. The white is PollyScale.
  12. This is a project I’ve been quietly working on (and off) in the background over the past year. It’s a sort of chance meeting on an operating table between a sewing machine and an umbrella, or in this case, between a 1:35 scale Hitachi Zaxis excavator and a couple of Gundam kits. It’s based on a model that I saw on a Japanese social media site a couple of years ago by a modeler called “Surume0407”. You can see his work here: <https://twoucan.com/profile/surume0407> I really liked it and wanted to try to make my own version, but while the use of the Hasegawa excavator kit was obvious, I had no idea what kits were used for the robot bits. I bought the excavator kit, figuring it would be fun to build regardless if I attempted the kit bash or not. Some time later, while looking at pictures of other people’s models on the web (a hobby in itself), I recognized some of the major bits in a photo of a Gundam ‘Graze’ figure. And with that, I was off to the races. This will be a fast one, so I’ll let the pictures do the talking. Hang on, there's a years worth of work squished into one post. The chassis was 3D printed out of polystyrene. It took a few tries to get proportions that I liked. This shows the underside. The white tubes are attachment points for the rear legs. The feet are 1:35 tank wheels and some styrene tube. 5/32” is close enough to 4mm that it seems to work ok with the Gundam poly-caps. I had to add some Tamiya putty in some cases to tune the fit. Leg armour squared off with epoxy putty to somewhat reduce their ‘gundamosity’. The extension for the counterweight was modeled in Fusion 360 and printed in polystyrene. I was unable to identify several of the armour pieces, so I decided to make my own. Here's the prototype sheet styrene knee armour and the printed final. Scratchbuilt a new piece for the top of the shear to match the size of the one on the claw and to make room for the Gundam ball attachment. The manipulators were made from a combination of the 1/144 scale leg and arm parts. The main Gundam torso was glued to a printed stryrene bar that fit into a groove in the chassis I busied up the sides of the chassis with some kit parts. So here are most of the parts laid out. All that needs to be done at this point is prime and assemble. Primer A lot of the original Hitachi parts are not glued to make painting easier, so everything is a bit precarious at this stage. All of the Gundam points of articulation are still functional, making posing this thing rather difficult (Much respect to Mr. Ray Harryhausen). Phew! So this is where things stand as of today. There are a lot of detail bits still to attach and the possibility of a driver, we'll see. Next up final assembly, paint, decals, and weathering. Stay tuned and thanks for following along. Oh, I also have another sci-fi build in progress in the diorama section, if anyone's interested. Thanks! -Peter
  13. it’s been over thirty years in the making, the bridge between my first modelling era and my second. It’s almost a scratch build as I’ve only used the fuselage, spinner and wheels with a scratch interior, wings, tail plane. Pretty happy with the result, feels weird to be finished it after so long. One step closer to restoring the balance of power on the WWI shelf. From left to right, ( front row) the Albatros, scratch Pfalz DrI, Sopwith Triplane, scratch Wight quadraplane (back row) DFW Floh, scratch Sopwith Pup, Scratch Sopwith Snark. Next build to finish is my Scratch Junkers JI.
  14. I have been slowly working on a collection of different Spitfire Marks. I have been ignoring the "lesser Marks" (e.g., VI, VII, XII) because kits don't seem to be readily available. Well, I found the italeri Mk. VI and learned how to make a VII using the Quickboost conversion set. Which brings me to the XII, which is one of my favorite marks and (except for a Czech resin kit, and an old xtrakit release) seems to have no 1/72 kits of it. I read someone had kitbashed a 1/48 scale Mk. XII (maybe before the Airfix or Special Hobby kits were available), by using a Mk. V with a Mk. XIV cowl (shortened). But reading about the various spitfire kits out there, I realize that fuselage diameters can vary, which makes mating the two fuselage parts problematic. so, a couple questions: Has anyone kitbashed a Mk. XII in 1/72 before? If yes, what are the brands of kits you recommend? There is a blister on top of the cowl just behind the propeller, any suggestions how to make it? If I could find some scale drawings I could probably make it from epoxy putty. I know there were some conversion kits (Brigade and Paragon) that I look for on flea bay whenever I remember, but I've never seen them available. Hyperscale had an article from 2007 about a kitbashed 1/72 Mk. XII and the author detailed what kits he used, but I'm not sure they're all still available and he left out some important details! Any ideas are welcome!
  15. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Vultee Vengeance ever since a friend gave me a partially built Special Hobby kit a few years ago. A combination of my inexperience, general clumsiness, and the use of the wrong primer saw it broken up for spare parts. Nevertheless, I was determined to complete a model of what is to me an interesting - even intriguing - aircraft. I decided to buy the Eastern Express (Frog) kit and kit bash it with the remains of my Special Hobby wreck. Armed with the Airwaves PE set, a Falcon vacform canopy and some decals from the Print Scale Vengeance sheet I set to work. I began by rescribing the (Eastern Express) airframe and working out how to fit the Special Hobby resin cockpit into it. Some scratch building was needed as the cockpit areas of both models are slightly different. My biggest headache was the cowling as, foolishly, I had somehow lost the Special Hobby one and the Eastern Express one is most unrealistic. I therefore had to make a new one out of bits of spare cowling aided by some Isopon P38 filler (I can’t praise this stuff too much; it sands and smooths beautifully but I did, as the instructions recommend, wear gloves and a respirator when mixing it)! Other than this it was the usual fun and games when cutting a vacform canopy – though the Falcon offering is apparently made for the Frog kit. Thirty-three A-31s and A-35s were supplied to Brazil carrying out a few anti-submarine patrols. Plagued by high oil consumption, fuel pump failures, lack of spares, and corrosion, they were withdrawn by April 1948. The subject aircraft was one of a batch – diverted from a British order, hence the serial AN581 - of 28 A-31s which arrived between August and December 1942. After the war the Forca Aerea Brasileire renumbered the aircraft ‘6000’. The Print Scale colour scheme depicts an aircraft in a sand, green and light grey finish but I chose to paint it in the scheme in which it was probably delivered: US equivalents of the RAF Temperate Land scheme. Colourcoats do such a set and I was very pleased with their set of enamel colours which spray beautifully and give a nice finish. Some weathering completed the model. The Vultee Vengeance is an intriguing aircraft on many levels. The most obvious feature of the aircraft is its wing which some have attributed to a mistake in the centre of gravity (CG) calculations. While I’m not an aerodynamicist my background research has suggested three reasons why this is not so: · This wing allows a broad CG range, which is useful in a bomber; · Such a wing planform (on a dive-bomber) apparently allows a truly vertical dive without the aircraft ‘walking’ [a feature of aircraft with wing dihedral] towards its target as the dive angle is increased above 70 degrees; · Finally, the later Vultee XA-41 aircraft, also a dive bomber, was designed with a similar wing - so why repeat a mistake? One notable endorsement came from that doyen of test pilots Captain Eric ‘Winkle’ Brown who thought the (later) Vengeance IV was [‘After the Ju.87 Stuka] ‘the… best dive bomber I have flown.’ While it is true to say that the Vengeance eventually ‘came good’ as an aircraft, and gave sterling service in the China-Burma-India and Pacific theatres it did so at a time when the initial allied enthusiasm for dive bombing - mainly influenced by the Stuka – had waned. The type was largely relegated to target towing and training duties. The Australian Air Power Development Centre summarised the issue common to all nations’ poor use of the Vengeance: it ‘demonstrates the need to align force structure, doctrine and equipment.’ Thank you for stopping by.
  16. Hi everybody; after a couple of propeller builds, here I am back to a jet, and in 1/72! A few words to introduce this project: almost one year ago, I started the build of a Hasegawa 1/72 F-4 J Phantom II, this one: It was my first serious venture in 1/72 scale, and was a lot of fun. I learnt a lot from all the people who followed that WIP, and one in particular is Gene K; former USAF F4 pilot, he has been very helpful both in terms of technical info on the AC and in terms of modelling tips. Long story short, we became friends an I offered him, as a sort of way to thank him for the great help and as a tribute to his career, to build a model of one of the F4-s he has actually flown. He suggested the subject of this build, and not only that: he has actually donated me the two kits I'll be using for this, plus a lot of extras. Basically, following Gene's guidance, I'm going to modify an F-4 J Hase kit to become an F-4C, with the addition of parts coming from the greatly detailed MONOGRAM kit and a few aftermarkets (and some scratch building, of course ). This thread is going to be co-hosted together with Gene, and we'll go into more details in the next few posts. For now, what I have is: a completely cleared workbench (that is something totally new for me ) the kits Hasegawa parts to be added/modified: Nose sensor Stabs Seamless intakes, Gene's patented method Monogram parts: Tanks, pilons, gunpod etc Speed brakes and arrest hook Cockpit (amazing detail for a 1/72 injected kit!!!) Pilots!! One half fuselage has already been "treated" by Gene prior to sending me the kits, as an example to follow. He has also noted indications on the kit plastic Aftermarkets: Specific decals Stencils; these have been donated by another friend, Silvano (Phantom61 here on BM) AC Profile and most important thing: Now Gene will go into more detail about the project and the aircraft. Enjoy! Ciao
  17. My contribution to the GB will an T-55 variant made by the Cuban army, which removed the normal turret and replaces it with a S-75 Dvina (aka SA-2 Guideline) anti-aircraft missile launcher. It was first seen during a military parade in 2006 & nearly all of the photos I can find are from this one event. There is very little information known about this modification, even the official name is a mystery, it has been refereed to as several different things online such as the T-55/S-75, T-55/SM-90 or the T-55/SA-2. For this build I'll be combining Trumpeter's T-54B & SA-2 kits along with a set of Miniart's RMSh tracks & various small scratch built/3D printed parts. This will be my fourth GB here & so far out of the other three I've only managed to complete one of them! (Note to self: must finish the T92 HMC) This shouldn't be a very complex build so hopefully I can get this one finished in time
  18. Stash clearance and seeing as how I enjoyed my Tomahawk I thought I'd try to keep an Airfix build on the boil as I tackle more complex builds for therapy? This was a Christmas present last year. Santa brought this this year A little research on the interweb led to this and this They came in the same box so they're getting built together. Plus it will help clear out the 1/72 kits in my stash. (I'm going 1/48th for all my main builds) Now seeing as how I'm under a ban on German (ahem) tail markings (which is quite ironic as I'm the one with the Jewish ancestry) and how I like to bring in the slightly esoteric if possible, I've decided to convert the Stuka to an A model in either Spanish Civil War colours or possibly Japanese (hence the K, the designation for all export models), the Gladiator was always earmarked for an Aircorp build, just not sure which of the two possible schemes I'd do, but I'm veering towards the green and silver one. Comparing the Stuka to the plans, it will need new spats, some work on the rear decking a new canopy and some remodelling of the chin radiator with perhaps some other small work. the Gladiator will just need a paint job. The cartoon pig on the spats is Jolanthe btw, this was actually the Luftwaffe nickname for the Stuka So to work, first order of business is to make a blank to mold some spats. Here it is prior to some filling to close the woodgrain. It's a sandwich of Balsa and card with the centre pieces double sided taped together so will be easy to split for molding once I get the shape right.
  19. I've lurked her a long time and thoroughly enjoy the WIP threads and take great modelling inspiration from them, so I reckon the time has come to start my own. Seeing as how this is (I think) an interesting subject which will have many modelling challenges I thought it would be a good first WIP. I do also have a wip thread on the Irish IPMS Forum which will be broadly similar, but then again might not be. This is my intended subject asn as luck would have it the SMER Bulldog has Decals for the black wavy line. The Gamecock was an improved Grebe which in turn was an improved SE5a, however I started from the Bulldog because they have (more or less) the same engine and the SMER kit was also available in quantity and at a low price, so I bought 2 with the intention of completing one as a Bulldog (maybe) and using the other as a donor for the Gamecock. So............ This is where I'm starting from. The SMER kit isn't terrible but like me it has some issues for example the markings are molded on (the kit not me ) . The engine , wheels and Decals are a definite part of the build and I'll see how much else can be beaten into shape as the build progresses. As luck would have it the upper wing isn't a million miles off and can be cut down to shape. Here it is with the markings sanded and scraped off and marked up for cutting. The lower wings and forward fuselage may also be good. It will definitely need a new tail and possibly a new rear fuselage, but I'll see as the build progresses. The upper wing cut and the left wing (confusingly the one on the right) cut to shape but not finish sanded.
  20. Voila! A real mission, the work in progress thread is on here too for those who are interested, (sorry haven’t figured out how to insert the link yet) it was a real battle to get the stickers on (they didn’t stick), I was saved in the end by a Furball “Sea blue f9f-8 Cougars” sheet, and airbrushed the rest! The little starter jeep was mostly scratchbuilt, grafted onto a Tamiya Willy’s, can’t help thinking some nice 3D printed figures would set the dio off nicely!! thanks for looking!
  21. Another kit bash this one. I'm pleased with how it turned out. Cheers Brian.
  22. My second Spit in this GB is one I've wanted to do for a while - a Spitfire F.21 in 1/48, using the Airfix PR.XIX fuselage and Seafire 46 wings. I'm going to be following a build by @CplPunishment - his build is here. Most of the parts I need are in the two kits and it looks like a reasonably straightforward conversion, although a bit of fettling is going to be needed to get the XIX and 46 bits to fit together properly. It'll go something like this: Cockpit - largely PR.XIX parts, omitting the cameras and other internals that are specific to the PR.XIX. Rear pressure bulkhead will be modified to represent the frame that would be in that place in an unpressurised aircraft. I've got a Yahu instrument panel for a IX - ok the wrong mark, but it'll look good enough with the canopy closed, which is how I plan to build it. I'll use an Eduard seatbelt and Quickboost gyro gunsight. Fuselage: PR.XIX with pressurisation intake removed, camera ports filled, and a little scribing to represent the door. I'll need a new windscreen - I have two options, the closed canopy from the Eduard Spit which will be build with the canopy open, or the windscreen from the 46. Wings and main undercarriage: Pretty much the full 46 assembly. Here's the traditional box shot - 2 boxes this time - complete with an assortment of the kids' mess on the table! Fuselage mods came first: This included the modification to the pressure bulkhead - basically I've just cut out the middle leaving the frame around the outside. I've also made a start on painting the cockpit by painting everything that needs to be interior green. From here, getting the cockpit assembled and painted and getting the fuselage together should be pretty straightforward. After that it'll be time to get the wings on, which will be a bit more interesting! cheers Julian
  23. I finished this model ages ago, but it took a long time to get around to taking studio photos of it. The new animated show "Star Wars: Resistance" is a mixed bag, IMO. I love the animation style (I grew up watching Robotech, the US-import version of the Macross Saga, so I love the anime style applied to Star Wars) and some of the ship designs are quite cool, while some of the characters are.....anyway. I fell in love with the main hero ship, the constantly-in-need-of-repair Fireball, which came about from one of Lucasfilm's showrunners wondering what an X-wing designed around the F4U Corsair would look like. While the actual ship doesn't directly share any parts with the T-65 X-wing or the F4U Corsair, you can get pretty close my mashing the two together, which is what I did with a Bandai Vehicle Model T-65 X-Wing, and an AFV Club 1:144 scale F4U. The AFV club model was very nice to work with, with plastic that's compatible with Tamiya extra fine cement. I had to do a lot of chopping, filing, and repositioning of various parts, as well as replacing the X-wing wing cannons with music wire and aluminum tubing, since they predictably broke off in all the handling. The paint job took ages - SO much masking. There are 4 base colors, and quite a few odd panels. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I didn't really keep a build log outside of Instagram, but there are a bunch of WIP and primered photos in a flickr album.
  24. USS Anubis | NCC-586 | Hermes Class | 1/2500 From the classic Franz Joseph "Star Fleet Technical Manual", this is the USS Anubis, a Hermes class scout. It was kitbashed from the classic Enterprise in the AMT 1/2500 "3 enterprise" (1701, 1701-A and 1701-D) from the '90's, of which I had an extra. The name came from the technical manual, but is also a sly nod to Stargate SG-1, which my kids also love. Work in progress is here. I saw several examples on the internet of classic Star Trek models with the shuttlebay integrated into the saucer section which I thought was brilliant. I cut the back off of the engineering hull and glued it to the saucer and then used Apoxie Sculpt epoxy putty to blend it in to the B/C decks on the saucer. The toughest part of that was cutting the angle on the bottom of the shuttle bay right so that the top of the shuttlebay was even with the top of the B/C decks. I only had one shot at that so it was a careful and tedious process. The other difficult part was to turn the center part of the warp nacelle so that it would be pointing down ward in the finished model. This meant I had to cut off the front and back parts, re-glue them in the right orientation and then fill and sand. I then had to fabricate "final stage intercoolers" (the thingamajigs that stick up in the back of the warp nacelle) out of sheet styrene and glue them on. Paints: (applied from base coat to surface): Mr Surfacer 1500 black as a primer > Testors Enamel FS36440 (Flat Gull Gray) marble coat > Testors Enamel Black preshading > Testors Enamel FS36440 top coat > Testors Enamel Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) / Testors Enamel Gunship Gray (FS36118) / Testors Enamel Chrome Silver for details > Alclad Aqua Gloss (3 coats) > Decals > Testors Model Master Semi-Gloss lacquer clear coat Decals: JT Graphics Surya and Constitution Class Decals / PNT Models 1:2500 scale hull details (for the pylon) In all, I was pretty happy with how it turned out! I kinda wish it hadn't taken so long, but it wasn't as big of a priority as some of my other builds. Thanks for looking. Comments, constructive criticism, questions and tips always welcome! Hope you enjoy.
  25. Late Friday night, while waiting for my MiG-15 to dry, I got stuck on my Miranda Class because the paint I needed was dried out. So what does a modeller do? Start a new project! I have an extra 1:2500 AMT 3 enterprise kit, and this has been percolating in my mind for a while. As with most kids my age, I thought the Franz Joseph "Starfleet Technical Manual" was the greatest Star Trek book ever and always dreamed of building up my own fleet (of course, when role playing I was always the captain of a Federation Class Dreadnought ). 1:2500 scale is the perfect scale to do that with. So, since I have extra registry number and fleet pennant decals from my JT Graphics Surya class decal sheet, I figured I'd make the USS Anubis (NCC-586) -- partially as a nod to Stargate SG-1 which my kids love. So, for starters, I wanted to turn the center section (with the "control reactor" which is the name given by the old AMT Enterprise instructions) so that it would face down in the finished product. So, I cut the front and back parts off the engine nacelle with an exact-o knife and glued them on 90 degrees clockwise. I had to cut off the "Intercooler units" and will need to fabricate new ones later. I didn't get pictures of the nacelle all cut apart, but here it is re-assembled, but not sanded yet: I also needed to cut the "neck" off of the secondary hull, so I did that with an exact-o knife and press-fit it into the saucer: Yesterday, I sanded the warp nacelle. It looks pretty good, but I won't know for sure until I primer it. Don't know how well the picture shows it, though: Also, I've seen pictures of kit bashes with a shuttle bay on the saucer section, which I think is brilliant for a hermes class scout. So, I tried to replicate that by cutting the back end of the secondary hull off with my Dremel and spending an hour with the Dremel and sandpaper to try and get it to fit correctly. This is the best I could do. I think it will be OK. The next step is to sand this down, and then use Apoxie sculpt epoxy putty to fill in the gaps. That will be the tricky part!
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