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  1. Hi everyone, I have some new flexible resin products in 1/48 and 1/32. I have not advertised them with Hannants yet as production not yet in full swing. email me at [email protected] if interested 48P050 1x Oxygen hose (also good for braded engine cable) £3.00 48P051 1x MG 151 chute £3.00 48P052 1x MG 131 chute £3.00 48P053 MG 81 Ju 88 A-4 set! 3x chutes and 4x ammo feeds £10.00 48P054 4x MG 151 ammo feeds £7.50 (perfect for ICM Do 217 J/N 32P050 1x Oxygen hose (also good for braded engine cable) £4.00 32P051 1x MG 151 chute £4.00 32P052 1x MG 131 chute £4.00 32P053 MG 81 Ju 88 A-4 set! 3x chutes and 4x ammo feeds £13.00 32P054 2x MG 151 ammo feeds £7.50 Thanks for looking John
  2. AIMS 1/72 decal sheet 72D021 re-print arrived the other day - contact me at [email protected] if interested. I am based in Hungary. if you in the UK maybe best to wait to Hannants have it in stock. Thanks for looking. For more Ju 88 G-1 and G-6 options remember sheet 72D027.
  3. Junkers Ju 88A/C Wheels - Late type (7479) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby for Revell Kit Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set from CMK is suitable for the Revell kit in 1:72, but would probably work equally as well for other kits. The set arrives in the usual yellow-themed CMK blister pack, with the instructions sandwiched between the resin parts and the header card. Inside are three resin parts on three casting blocks, consisting of two main wheels, and a tail wheel. The wheels are all attached to their blocks on their contact patches, with additional wisps of resin supporting the wheel further and helping to reduce the likelihood of air bubbles within the moulds. These are easily removed with a razor saw and a swipe with a sanding stick that should leave all the smooth contact surface intact. They’re a much better detailed drop-in replacement for the kit parts from thereon in. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Junkers Ju 88A/C Wheels Early Type (7478 for Revell) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set arrives in CMK’s usual yellow-themed clamshell box, and contains three wheels on three casting blocks that join the parts at the bottom contact patch of each tyre. They are a drop-in replacement for the kit parts once you have removed them from their pouring block, and all the main wheels have a fine tread. The Continental name detail is found on the sidewalls. There is some subtle weighting to the bottom of the tyres to give the impression of the airframe pressing down on the highly compressed air in the tyres. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Some ideas in case someone is interested in very real Luftwaffe models. The subject that deserves a closer look is the famous Kampfkopf. The glass monster, where you have to be very careful anyway during modelling, both when gluing and when painting. After seeing beautiful models over and over again, I notice that essential details are completely ignored due to the ignorance of the manufacturer and the modeller. I was lucky to have both a Ju-88 pilot and a pilot who had instructors who flew with the He-111 in my environment. When I started modeling, I built these types, but I lacked the ability to incorporate these details. In the case of the He-111, it should be noted that a flight could quite well proceed in such a way that the entire bow pulpit ran up from the inside and became milky opaque. That's why you have a long, narrow ( almost rectangle) window in the upper left above the pilot that can be opened like a windshield. The pilot had to stand so that the control horn can be extended, and then he had to steer the aircraft while standing upright and while wearing a leather hood and glasses. Imagine that! Like on a ship! Well, with the Ju-88, He-111 and Do-17/217 etc. Have you ever imagined how pleasantly warm it had to be when a machine like this was in Sicily? And later that day they had to take a seat inside with the flying suit. Something very warm is an understatement. So there were a lot of curtains. Already seen? Well. Now in general these little things are forgotten in museums or simply not done. They're on the same topic in case you come across a Bf-108. Elly Beinhorn also wrote about it in her book. Well, you are sure to find more interesting results in your literature. I'm curious when I'll find a Ju-88 with curtains in the forum for the first time. Just to show you what I want to explain: Ju 88 first Ju 88 second Happy modelling
  6. Ok here´s an older pic of the core of my MTO the Third project. Never mind the "A-1" and "Battle of Britain" on the boxtops, these will become other variants and from the Mediterranean . I have these three A-1 and one A-4 kit. To convert the A-1:s to latter variants, Revell Gmbh was happy to sell me (very cheap, by the way) three sets of sprues C and D (if I recall correctly) from the A-4 kit that contain parts for the longer wing tips etc. In my spares box I have all the Zerstörer/Nachtjäger parts left over from converting a Revell C-6 kit to an A-4 a few years ago (a desperate measure but that was another time when the A-4 kits were unobtainable). That was another time the Revell service dept helped me flawlessly, thanks yet again! The He 111 build in progress will supply me a spare MG-FF. In the aftermarket section I´m still waiting for the correct mask set for the A-1. The early lower gondola and canopy rear section need the specific set, but I have two A-4 and one C-6 sets to begin with. For the decals I have the AIMS Ju 88 "Experts" and "Bomber" sets, and a separate section from one of reverend John´s earlier sheets for one aircraft, and I´ll still need to do some decalbashing for some maybe! I aim to continue the "Specialists GB" theme from last year, which means one aircraft will be recce (D-2), one night fighter (C-4), one tank buster (in this case only a ground pounding A-5/6 bomber) and one a ship killer (A-4 w/MG-FF). They might all also sport a different camouflage. I did just recently finish a Zvezda A-5 in RLM 78/79 scheme and I´m not too interested in doing another so quickly - maybe I should go for a partly blacked splinter or desert scheme then? There are some of these delicious options in John Weal´s book, so... The Heinrich Paepcke plane would be nice, but would have to be mostly WHIF. V-P
  7. Here's my ICM Ju 88C-6b in 1:48. The decals on this kit are of the ones that stick at first contact with the surface. I lost three of the main decals and had to improvise.
  8. Hello guys, here's my next project, ICM's Ju 88C-6b. I hope it fits well. I'll be painting it as Heinrich Prizn zu Sayn Wittgenstein's machine.
  9. Hello guys. As the title explains, are ICM's decals of the sticky nature? I don't want to find out that after having my model all gloss coated, only to find out the decals stick firmly to the surface as soon as they are placed. TIA!
  10. Decided to start a side project, apart from Airfix's 1:48 Bf 109E. This photo is from earlier today. And this one is from today's evening. The camouflage has been outlined with a pencil. I had glue remaining just for the left engine cowling, I'll buy more tomorrow, if I can.
  11. Hi, Does anyone have pictures och the Italeri Junkers Ju 88 038 "Torpedobomber" kit? Wonder if the ventral fuselage hatch is a lose part or if is moulded with the fuselage? I have an Ju 88 G7 kit made with parts from the Ju 188. But still have solve how to make the ventral hatch. Cheers / André
  12. Recently I "recovered" my DML Ju88C bought over 15 years. It's kit No. 5540#, based on Shanghai Dragon 5536# C-6 version, with a new nose and radar antenna added. Another difference is the dorsal (is it a proper name?) gun position, or B-stand. 5536 has 2 MG17s same as A-4 version: 5540 has a single gun replicated this photo: It seems that the latter one only appeared on Nacht Jagers, so can we speculate that C "Zerstroyer" usually converted from bomber version, so remained the gun layout...... although not so crisp, we can see "bulge" on canopy. .......while Nachtjager might be new built or modified at factory? So all modifications applied? Earlier C-2/4 also had single gun fitted. However, twin guns also seen on Nachtjagers....so how to figure out them...
  13. "Wittgenstein here, clear off!" Second nightfighter in my collection, and probably the last one I make in 1:72, installing those antennas was a nightmare. Some pieces also didn´t fit, others were too long, the instructions tell you to install the exhausts without mentioning you won´t be able to fit the flame dampers if you do so, the rudder pedals supporters won't let you fit the nose unless you trim them, etc... Pay close attention, if you build this kit, when making the antenna array: the support struts are of different lengths, something Revell misses to point out. Brushpainted with Revell acrylics.
  14. Hi Everyone, I picked up an ICM Ju 88 A-5 at the weekend and without wanting to sound overly negative I thought I would share some thoughts upon opening the box aimed at those who want to make it OTB. I have naturally started making some correction parts and I am currently checking to see if my masters for my Dragon Ju 88 A-4 to a-1 conversion can be used for the ICM kit. First up the early B- Stand clear part - ICM have a straight frame in between the two weapons instead of triangular bracing like Falcon have it on their Vacform designed for the Dragon kits. As for the windows in the back of the latter A-4 style B Stand - yes many A-5s had them but they normally had an angular window as per the way ICM have provided it on one of the C Stand crew entry hatches Perhaps the most glaring omission has to be the lack of crew-station platform. It has been a long time since anyone brought out a Ju 88 without one, it is not good enough to just plonk the seats down at floor level when Revell can do it right in 1/72nd. Here is a pic of the instructions followed by a pick of the Revell 1/32 side wall to give you an idea of the different heights of the platform, in the background is the amazing Aires resin cockpit part in question Perhaps the most glaring omission has to be the lack of crew-station platform. It has been a long time since anyone brought out a Ju 88 without one, it is not good enough to just plonk the seats down at floor level when Revell can do it right in 1/72nd. Here is a pic of the instructions followed by a pick of the Revell 1/32 side wall to give you an idea of the different heights of the platform, in the background is the amazing Aires resin cockpit part in question
  15. Hello everyone. Here is my Italeri Junkers Ju 88A-4 built OOB back in 2002. The decals came from an Inscale sheet on Finnish Ju 88s. It represents JK-254, "3", 1/LeLv44, of the Finnish Air Force, Finland, in June 1944. The main scheme was painted with airbrush using Tamiya paints. According to the decal's instructions, the RLM70/71 greens were reversed. I built this kit before I knew what RLM71 really looked like so the shade used isn't correct. Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome. Miguel
  16. These three models were built when I was younger (15-17 I think), then they were thrown into the garbage because a shelf fell above them and broke them, without a repair chance. The Fw 190A-8 was specially fragile because I had swapped, once glued, its early style wheels for the late ones of Hasegawa´s newly tooled Fw 190A-5. Revell´s 1:32 Junkers Ju 88A-1. At this time I wasn´t too sure how to sand the paint ridges, so the aircraft was decaled over them. I used Scale Aircraft Conversion´s metal landing gear for this one. Hasegawa´s old tool 1:32 Focke Wulf Fw 190A. This was the first aircraft I tried to seriously mottle. It was also painted using bluetac as a guide for the camouflage. Academy has the same colour scheme on its 1:72 Fw 190A-8. Hasegawa´s 1:32 Me 163. The photos were uploaded to the "1:32" contest in Modeling Madness, you can find them here: https://modelingmadness.com/contests/1-32/1-32pix.htm I´ll try to find the photos of my old models, they´re scattered throughout many other websites.
  17. Having been mainly interested in the A-4 variant so far I was very happy with the Revell 1:72 kit. Lately I raised an interest in earlier A-5 and D-2 variants. I thought Zvezda would cater me with their A-5/A-17 kit - that I have yet to see and handle the plastic - good enough. Taking a closer look at many interesting subjects from the Mediterranean and North Africa I noticed the earlier Linsenlafette instead of the later Bodenlafette 39 variants. I haven´t been able to find out in the Zvezda kit reviews if the Linsenlafette in included or not? If not, is it available from cottage industry? Thanks in advance, V-P
  18. Hi all, Kit manufacture: Revell Scale: 1/72 Type: Junkers JU 88A-4 Extras used: OOB except brass rod pitot and EZ line antenna Paints and colours used: Vallejo RLM colours (older type). Weathered with Flory Grime, and oil paints. All sealed with Aqua Gloss and flattened with Xtracylix matt varnish. I finished this one a little while ago but have only just got round to photographer her.A good kit this with generally good fit, but a couple of challenging areas. The wingtips being one of them... Beautiful surface detail though, and a wonderfully detailed cockpit.Here's the pics: That's about it. Thank you for stopping by! As always, comments, criticism and advice is always welcomed!Val
  19. Hi, Of the many versions already relesead by ICM of the Ju 88 in 1:48, which is the most accurate? If I remember well, the first version had issues like too long undercarriage legs and too basic nacelle engines. Best,
  20. Hello Chaps, Since completing my Monogram Pro-Modeler 1/48 scale Heinkel He 111H-22 and enjoying every minute of the build, along with the end result, I wanted to do another German Bomber, either the Ju 88 or the Do17. Very kindly, one of my YouTube viewers sent me this kit- the Revell Pro-Modeler 1/32 Junkers Ju 88A-1 Bomber, for which I was extremely grateful! So, without further ado, let's get onto the introduction: The kit comes in a sturdy two piece lid and base box with a 24 page black and white instruction booklet, a decal sheet that offers two sets of markings- one for Geschwaderstab KG 30 and one for a "Battle of Britain" version Kampfgeschwader 54, six bags of sprues; five bags containing a total of 13 grey sprues and one bag containing a single clear sprue making a total of 281 parts. This kit was originally released as a new tooling in 2008, then again in 2011 with a new box art and last released in 2013 with new box art and some new parts. This kit is the second release of 2011. The Box Art: Specification table on the side of the lid: With the lid removed one can see the contents are contained in a nice sturdy base with overlapping sides: The 24 page black and white instruction booklet: The Decal Sheet: The 13 grey sprues: The one clear sprue: So, that's the kit, let the build begin!....I have actually begun the build, I started on Monday, but I'm just getting around to posting and starting this build thread. "Build Update #1 coming very soon! In the meantime, if you'd like to see my YouTube "Build Introduction" video, then here is the link to that: https://youtu.be/jXrdga-zYG8 Thanks in advance for reading this thread, leaving any comments and for watching my video, should you decide to do so! Happy modeling and have fun! Cheers Martin
  21. Dear Fellow Modellers, Finally I'm starting my thread on this much anticipated GB. I'm building Revell's 1/72 A-4 version and will be using Quickboost's resin exhausts and Eduard's BIGED PE and mask set. I'll be building scheme A, as shown in the box, for an aircraft based in Sicily, Italy, June 1941: As usual, here are pictures of the sprues. The clear parts are good, very transparent, without defects: The plastic is beautifully detailed, neither too soft nor too hard: This is the decal sheet, which looks good: I'll have to use swastikas from an xtradecal sheet. There's a total of 125 parts. But I just can't build anything out of the box, so here are the resin exhausts: The following are the several PE sets that come in the BIGED set. The interior PE parts (2 frets): The exterior PE set: The surface panels set: And the canopy masks, which are a must for these German bombers: Building starts with the cockpit. This is the first part: The moulded detail was removed, to be latter replaced by PE: The second part: The levers on the left hand side were also removed, as they will be replaced by metal levers: The two parts were glued together. Fit is very good: These two parts, complete the cockpit base. The level of detail out of the box is superb: The cockpit base was assembled: The control column was also removed from the sprue: It will be glued in place after painting. Now starts the PE odyssey. First, I assembled the levers. This metal part, already bent, will hold one of them: Here are the levers, ready for installation: The levers were glued in place of the plastic ones that had been removed: The next step is building the pedals, their mechanisms and supporting beams: However, all plastic in this step will be replaced by PE, as shown in the PE instructions: I started with the supporting beams. Here we can see one ready and the other just removed from the fret: The same here for the mechanisms: These parts were glued together: For comparison, here are the replaced plastic parts: The enhanced level of detail provided by the PE parts is readily apparent. Here we can see the pedals: one ready, the other just out of the fret: For comparison, here is a plastic pedal and a PE pedal, side by side: I think the increased effort of preparing and assembling the PE parts is fully compensated by the enhanced realism achieved. Moving on to the cockpit walls, here is the port wall: Some detail was removed, to be latter replaced by pre-painted PE, and the unpainted PE detail was glued in place: The starboard side wall. The moulded detail is superb: but some must be removed: I'll post more progress tomorrow, as this post is quite big already. Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
  22. So far I'm only certain of the kit I'll build, The Revell newish A-4, and the standard RLM 65/70/71 splinter camo. I'm still hesitating should I build a straight OOB A-4 for KG 30, add nose MG-FF for one, convert it to an A-4 torp for III/KG 26 or make a D-1 for 1.(F)/22... All from Luftflotte 5 in Northern Norway, late summer of 1942. Decisions, decisions! V-P EDIT: will post progress of building two kits in just one thread, it´s so much easier, regarding how much these kits have in common. EDIt 2: A-4 torp is already on its way and the MG-FF will be added to otherwise Plain Jane A-4
  23. Hello Chaps, It's been a long haul build- 8 weeks in total, but that is because my wife and I are actively involved with contractors working on our new home that we will be moving to in mid-April....sorting out kitchen design, wood flooring, carpeting, tiles for kitchen and bathrooms, shower designs, paint colors for every room, new faucets for all sinks, choosing granite countertops and sinks for kitchen and bathrooms, new light fixtures and door handles etc etc....I hope this is the last time we have to move now, moving is a stressful and tiring event! Anyway, enough of the waffle and lets get on with sharing photos of my completed build, which is built straight from the box, no after market additions, only using 1.010" fine black EZ-Line for the antenna cables. I hope you like.... Regarding what I think of this kit: It's a great kit that goes together well, has some nice features such as a highly detailed cockpit, pose-able ailerons, flaps, elevators, rudder and air-brakes, recessed panel lines and other surface detail. The parts were all molded very well, with minimal flash and/or parting line miss-match that required clean up before painting. It offers two sets of markings, I chose to do this version that was active in the "Battle of Britain", and the decals are excellent- they go down very well on a gloss clear coat with no silvering, and once the finishing matt clear coat was applied, they look painted on. I did come across two issues during the build: 1) When fitting the engine nacelles to the undersides of the wings, I had a considerable gap between the mating areas of the front and rear nacelles. This is discussed in my "Final Reveal" video and can be seen in my "WIP" thread....links below: 2) When fitting the wheels onto their axles, both axles sheared off very easily and remained inside the wheel mating holes. I drilled these out of the wheels and drilled corresponding holes into the wheel struts and fitted steel pins. I then took a black rubber Tamiya propeller bushing and cut it down the middle to create two thinner bushings. I slid these over the new steel axles and super glued them into place. These then provided some surface area for the wheel hubs to glue to. Again, I used CA glue to fit the wheels in place and it worked a treat, providing me with a very rigid and stronger undercarriage. WIP thread link: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996419-revell-pro-modeler-132-junkers-ju-88a-1-bomber-build-update-5-31516/ My YouTube "Final Reveal" video link: This kit would be superb if it came with two completely detailed Jumo 211B-1 engines, external bomb pylons and bombs and an open bomb bay with internal bomb racks and bombs!! That would make it super eye candy and a fabulous kit to work on.....I can dream! Thanks in advance for taking a look at this RFI and for any comments left, they are greatly appreciated! In the meantime, and until the start of my next build which won't be until we have moved and settled into our new home-probably the end of April, happy modeling and have fun! Cheers Martin
  24. Another one, much more easier to prepare in model
  25. Hello! So after some time I show you my JU 88 G6 from Dragon/Cyber Hobby- Orange Box in 1/48. Pretty old kit and because of the many re-edtions the moulding suffered from that. The construction was a real challenge. I've tried to avoid filler. So dry fitting is a "must do". I have replaced all MG 151 with brass rods. The FUGs are from Mastermodel. Another challenge, because I tried the solder them. In the end it wasn't that hard, as I've thought. I made a template that helped me a lot.The rear antenna holder is also a brass construction soldered togehter. I've rescribed the fuel hatches on the top of the fuseage. Soon as the construction was finished, the painting started using Vallejo RLM 76 and Gunze RLM75. I really liked the paint scheme done by Chris Wauchop from Hyperscale. That black tail fin really got me! After all I'm happy this project is done. Greetings
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