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In Q4 2023 Q1 2024 ICM is to release a 1/48th Martin B-26B Marauder kit - ref. 48320 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48320 V.P.

Wasn’t planning on entering this groupbuild but came across this when tidying up the stash. Always like the look of the Mustang with the Malcolm Hood, so I will be aiming for a quick OOB build.

My second contribution to the GB. It is the nice Mitsubishi bomber from ICM in Thai markings during WWII. Parts are already removed from the sprues on this one. /Nanond

WWII British Aircraft Armament (48407) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd During WWII, numerous weapons systems (as we’d call them now) were developed to fight the Axis forces, standardised for mass manufacture, and for ease of interoperability between types of aircraft in use at the time. These were adapted and improved over time in light of operational experience, the Allies finishing the war with a much more potent arsenal than it started with. This set depicts some of these designs, and arrives in a small top-opening box with a captive flap on the lower tray. Inside are four sprues of grey styrene, a decal sheet, two instruction booklets and a pamphlet advertising the recently launched ICM range of acrylic paints that we’ve reviewed on this here forum. One sprue depicts the British 18” Mk.XII Torpedo that was an air-launched variant of the earlier Mk.XI, entering service in the early 30s. The Mark.12 was the variant used by the Fleet Air Arm and RAF Coastal Command during WWII, and could be fitted with a break-off wooden tail fairing to reduce entry speed into the water, and the nose was painted red for a training round, or the less visible black for a live round, which goes against the “red for danger” methodology normally used. It is the most complex assembly of the set and has its own booklet that details construction. The torpedo is made first, built from two halves with a double row of screws and a pair of perpendicular fins at the rear, two of which are moulded-in. The optional break-off tail is made from two rectangular end panels, with a single horizontal plane stretching between them. The wooden tail includes the tail fins of the torpedo and is a straight replacement to the standard fins, then a spacer and large spinner are fitted to the front. The guts of the trolley consists of two scissor jacks, and these are both made from four parts each that are mounted onto a slotted base, then surrounded by a framework with two small balancing wheels at either end. A short axle projects from the centre of the rails, and these mount a larger wheel with integrated tyre, plus a winder at each end that operates the scissor-jacks (on the real thing). The torpedo is lowered into the cradle along the trolley’s direction of travel to finish off. The other three sprues are identical, containing parts that allow you to make the following: 3 x 1,500lb Aerial Mine 6 x GP 250lb Bomb 6 x MC 250lb Bomb 6 x MC 500lb Bomb 6 x GP 500lb Bomb 6 x SAP 250lb Bomb 6 x Bomb Rack, combination of left & right wings, plus two bomb bay racks Each bomb is made from two halves, adding end caps and parachute bundle to the mine, additional fins and circular rings to the majority of the others, and a choice of sway-braces to the bomb racks, depending on which bombs you will be mounting. Markings The torpedo and trailer have no stencils, but the bombs have stencils and designation bands around them, which are curved on the sheet to ensure that they conform to the shape of the weapon they’re intended for. Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A useful set for anyone with a need for munitions for their latest British WWII project. There are a lot of them in the box, and despite their simple construction, they have plenty of detail moulded-in. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

B-26B Marauder (48320) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd Instigated on the eve of WWII in Europe, the Marauder was a medium bomber developed over two years by the Glenn L Martin company, entering service in early 1942. Due to its high wing and relatively small planform, loading was high, which resulted in a faster than usual landing speed, which could cause problems for an inexperienced crew during final approach, and similarly if a single-engined approach was necessary. Its stall speed would bite the pilots aggressively if they varied even slightly from the documented landing procedures, resulting in excessive losses due to accidents, which earned it the nickname ‘Widowmaker’ amongst crews. To counter this, changes to the aircraft’s aerodynamics and wing length were undertaken, together with additional crew training, a combination that proved successful, and led to the type’s loss rate being amongst the lowest of the Allies bomber fleet. After initial orders, more followed, and improvements led to the B-26A, and soon after the B-26B, which by Block 10 benefited from longer wings and the other improvements that gave its pilots a longer life-expectancy. The type saw extensive service in Europe, flying with the US Army Air Force and with the RAF, where it was known as the Marauder Mk.1 for B-26A airframes, and Mk.1a for the B models. It also saw service in the Pacific, with a total of over 5,000 airframes built, 500 of which were flown by the RAF, with all airframes withdrawn from service by 1947, after which the A-26 Invader was given the B-26 designation, creating confusion amongst many aviation buffs and modellers over the years. Powered by a pair of Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp engine in nacelles under the wings, the rotund fuselage could carry up to 4,000lbs of bombs in a bay between the wings with a range of 1,500 miles at a substantially higher cruising speed than a B-17, giving it a better chance against fighters and flak, which contributed to its low attrition rate. An early adaptation saw the main armament increased from .303 machine guns to .50cals in all four turrets that could take a bigger bite out of any enemy fighters that ventured too close. The Kit This is a brand-new tooling from ICM, of an aircraft that has been neglected for many years in 1:48 scale, so there was much joy when the kit was announced, and many of us, myself included, have been waiting as patiently as we can manage for its release. The kit arrives in a top-opening box with an attractive painting of a brace of Marauders braving flak over Europe, and under the lid is the usual captive flap on the lower tray, and under that are eight large sprues in grey styrene, plus one of crystal-clear parts, a large decal sheet and the instruction booklet that is printed on glossy paper in colour with painting and decaling profiles on the rear pages. Detail is up to ICM’s modern high standards, with most of the fuselage full of detail that includes the cockpit, bomb bay and fuselage compartments around the turrets and waist gun positions. Construction begins with the fuselage halves for a change, preparing the interior by drilling out some flashed-over holes for gun packs used on two decal options, and adding the outer bomb racks plus other small details, along with the windows and hinges for the bomb bay if you plan to pose them open. There are also two decals to be applied to parts of the nose compartment, one on each side. The nose bay is built upon its roof, adding side walls and details to the interior, then the cockpit floor is layered on top, fitting the pilot’s four-part seat and separate rudder pedals, making the centre console from another five parts, and attaching the instrument panel to the rear, both it and the console receiving decals to depict the dials. The cranked control column has a bow-tie yoke, applying them to the floor in front of the pilot’s seat, and a bottle behind it, plus a single-part co-pilot seat, two-part yoke, and a stiff neck from straining to view the instrument panel. In the front of the floor is the bomb aimer’s seat, with a three-part sight for him to look through when the time for dropping bombs arrives. The bomb bay front and rear bulkheads have spars moulded-in and show off the circular cross-section of the fuselage, detailing both with small parts, and joining them together via the roof, which is ribbed for strength. Six bombs are built from two main parts with a separate spinner trapped inside the fin structure, gluing three to each of the central bomb ladders, then mounting those onto a pair of rails that fit into the bottom centre of the two bulkheads during the installation of the bay roof. The completed assembly is inserted into the port fuselage half, hiding the short empty sections of the fuselage by inserting another bulkhead behind the bomb bay and in front, the latter having the cockpit floor slotted into it before installation. Before the fuselage halves can be closed, there is a lot of armament to be built, starting with the rear gun turret, which has two guns glued to a central support, sliding the barrels through the two slots in the rear cover, and adding a tapering bracket to the top. The fuselage waist defensive armament is stowed away inside until needed, mounting the two guns facing aft on a section of flooring via two supports, which is depicted with two options, although I can’t see any differences between the two, but it’s late. The waist guns are glued into the rear fuselage on a flat area, inserting the rear turret in the aft, and fitting an armoured bulkhead forward, which the gunner sits behind on a circular seat that is also included. The top turret has the front section with ammo cans built first, inserting it and the gunner’s seat into the turret ring from below along with the control levers. The twin .50cals are inserted from above with the sighting gear between them, slotting the completed interior into a surround, then sliding the glazing over the barrels and securing it with a non-fogging glue before it is slipped into the cut-out on the upper fuselage. Another ovoid bulkhead with a hatchway is inserted between the rear gunner and waist gunners, suspending a box overhead in the waist compartment, then sectioning off the nose from the cockpit with a horseshoe-shaped bulkhead. If you skipped ahead and prepared the starboard fuselage half to speed through painting and weathering, it’s all good, otherwise the starboard fuselage is drilled out and dotted with detail parts, windows, braces and bomb racks, plus bomb bay hinges if you are leaving the doors open, then closing the two halves after putting 50g of nose weight in the space between the cockpit and bomb bay to keep the nose wheel on the ground when the model is complete. The tail fin is a separate assembly on this kit, starting by gluing the two halves of the fin together, then building the stabilisers as a single unit made from a full-span lower and two upper parts plus two smaller inserts. The two assemblies are brought together at the rear, covering the rear of the fuselage, and adding a curved insert behind the cockpit, covering the nose weight, whilst giving you a last chance to add some if you forgot earlier. The rudder and two elevators are each made from two halves, and can be glued into position deflected if you wish, to add some individuality to your model. The bomb bay has four actuators fitted to each of the fore and aft bulkheads, installing the four doors folded into pairs, or covering the bay with a pair of doors if you intend to close it. Two of the decal options carried cheek-mounted gun packs, which mount on the holes drilled earlier, after building each one from fairing, barrel, and nose cap for each of the four, with the instructions advising to install them after applying decals in that area. The main canopy and tail gun glazing are attached, adding two clear roof panels to the canopy, and making the nose glazing with a rectangular box on one side, and a gun in the centre before it too is glued in place. Two detail inserts are applied between the spars that project from the wing root, with the detail facing inward, so remember to paint those at the same time as the rest of the interior for your own convenience. The wings are each separate, and slide over the spars that are moulded into the bomb bay bulkheads. Before closing the wing halves, the gear bay structure is made, consisting of three parts forming an H-frame, adding two more ribs in the forward compartment, and closing off the rear of the bay with a final stringer, painting everything as you go. A bay insert is also included for the ailerons, and this is fixed to the lower wing as the upper is brought in and the two halves are mated. The two-section flaps are each made from upper and lower halves, as is the aileron, and all three are fitted in the trailing edge of the wing, attaching actuator fairings, detail parts inside the nacelle roof, a landing light in the leading edge, and a tip light over the moulded-in recess, which has a likeness of a bulb moulded into the area. A pitot probe is cut from near the wingtip, then the same process is carried out on the opposite wing in mirror-image, setting the completed wings to one side while the engines and their nacelles are built. Each Double-Wasp engine is made from a layer of six parts, depicting both banks of pistons and push-rods, adding the bell-housing and magnetos to the front, trapping a prop axle between them without glue, and inserting the intake ‘spider’ at the rear, with nine exhaust stubs mounted behind the engine. The completed engine is then locked between two circular carriers, and two exhaust collector parts are attached at the rear next to the cooling gills that are moulded into the rear carrier. The cowling is a complex shape that has a substantial portion moulded as a single part, inserting a curved plate inside to create a broad intake trunk in the base, then fitting two more inserts into the top sections of the cowling that fit into position, creating the familiar intake ‘ears’ at the top. The engine slides into the cowling from the rear until the cooling gills butt up against a cut-out, then attention shifts to the nacelle, which is made from two halves after adding covered exhausts and hinge-points to the gear bay sides on a single carrier per side, then gluing the two halves together with three bulkheads holding everything to shape. Once the glue has cured and seams have been dealt with, the engine and cowling are glued to the front and fitted under the wing. Again, the same process is carried out in mirror image for the opposite nacelle, after which the wings can be slid into position and glued in place. The Marauder was another tricycle gear equipped bomber, and the nose leg is made from the main strut with scissor-links added on both sides, fitted into the bay with a retraction jack behind it. A crew access ladder is provided, and is fixed into the roof at the rear of the bay, locating the two bay doors on the sides after fitting hinges along the upper edges, with a small retractor jack installed at the mid-point to complete the area. The main gear legs are fitted with twin supports at the top and door openers mid-way down, inserting them into the nacelles along with a V-shaped strut, and a pair of bay doors on each nacelle. The main wheel tyres are made from two halves, with two more parts for the hubs, as is the nose gear wheel, but with flat hub caps, all three installing on stub axles so that the model can sit on all three wheels, or the rear two if you forgot the nose weight. I can’t laugh, as I recently did that, but got away with it. An aerial and a faired-in D/F loop are fixed under the belly, and another aerial is mounted behind the cockpit, with just the two four-blade props with separate spinners to complete the build. As is common now with ICM kits, there is a page of the instruction booklet devoted to the masking of the canopy, using the printed shapes on the bottom of the page and the diagrams above to create your own masks if you wish. It consists of only thirty-two elements, some of which are used on the side windows, landing lights and around the cowlings at the front of the engine nacelles. Markings There are three decal options on the large sheet, all of which were European-based, with only one wearing camouflage, whilst all wear invasion band ‘special markings’ due to the period they were in operation after D-Day. From the box you can build one of the following: B-26B-55MA 42-96077 ‘Ladies Delight’, 584th Bomber Squadron, 394th Bomb Group, probably Boreham, England, Summer 1944 B-26B-55MA 42-96214 ‘Coral Princess III’ 494th Bomber Squadron, 344th Bomb Group, Pontoise, France, Autumn 1944 B-26B-55MA 42-96165 ‘The Big Hairy Bird’ 599th Bomber Squadron, 397th Bomb Group, Peronne, France, December 1944 Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Like a lot of modellers, I’ve had a soft spot for the Marauder for a while, and I’m now extremely pleased that a new well-detailed model has been released by ICM, with the prospect of more to come in various boxings. The Marauder saw a lot of action, so there’s plenty of opportunities to depict a well-weathered example, and I’m looking forward to seeing them popping up on the forum. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Hope I can jump in a bit late. After many years of mostly lurking, I decided that I couldn't pass up a group build of one of my favourite classes of aircraft! So for this build, I'm going in with an ICM Ju-88 in 48th scale that I picked up on eBay some months back. In this case, some of the Hungarian decals I initially thought of using were taken by the seller, who instead supplied a set of superscale decals with the kit for a Luftwaffe subject. Which suited me just fine. So I hope to not procrastinate and instead get this thing done. First - the kit... and the decals I'll be using...

This is the early ICM (Tamiya knockoff) 1/48 P-51D Mustang, marked as "Miss Marilyn II". As and early ICM kit, there were a number of challenges, HUGE sink marks, short shots, incorrect detail parts copied from other kits, and a canopy that looked like it had been removed from the mold with a shovel! I used an Ultracast seat, and the sliding canopy is a spare from an Airfix kit (suitably reshaped). The front windscreen is from a scrapped Monogram P-51, that had to be reshaped, shortened, and polished to fit. Wheel well was opened to the aft spar, brake lines added, and the radio, battery and drop tanks wired, and plumbed. Decals are ancient Superscale (that tried to shatter on contact with water - to the point that some codes were masked and sprayed), and the paints are all Tamiya acrylic. Thanks for looking, Colin

Hi all here are some pics of my latest project, it's ICM's lovely 1/48 Dornier DO-17Z built and painted as a DO-17z-3 of the Ilmavoimatt (Finnish Air Force) and finished in a temporary Winter scheme. I thoroughly enjoyed this build and found the kit to have the right mix of detail and ease of build and can highly recommend it and also the decals by SBS Models which are superb. Anyway here are the pictures; If any of you haven't been along to the Radial Engines Rock GB (which I built this for) then I recommend popping along and having a look at the cracking models in the gallery and those still in wip, there are some great ones to look at. And if you like the colour scheme (and who wouldn't!) there is a Winter War GB proposed which I suggest you have a look at and sign up for. Here is a link to the build of her; Thanks for looking, and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig.

From Hannants e-shop, the new ICM 2024 programme https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?adv=1&product_category_id=103&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=8060&product_type_id=&code=&scale_id=&keyword_search=&setPerPage=100&sort=0&search_direction=0&save_search_name=&save_search= The aircraft hightlights being in my opinion de new tool 1/48th Sikorsky UH-60A and MH-60L Black Hawk helicopter kits expected in Q4 2024 - thread is here: link V.P.

ICM Acrylic Paint Sets ICM via H G Hannants Ltd In 2021 ICM released their own Acrylic Paint range, and soon after began offering boxed sets that matched with their recent kit releases, which is good marketing, and helpful to the modellers building these kits. The sets arrive in a cardboard box with six screw-capped bottles inside, each containing 12ml of paint. The bottles are clear Polypropylene, and are capped with cylindrical tops that have knurled sides, and a one-time security seal that you break on first opening. A label on the side gives you basic information about the colour and code, a little information regarding application in English and Ukrainian, plus a bar-code. As is sensible with a new range of paints, we undertook some testing of the first issues to establish whether the paint was good for brushing and airbrushing, and what sort of finish you can achieve with their products. They have released many sets since then, and so far we’ve been reviewing them separately, which is not only time intensive for us, but also means that they’ll be scattered throughout the Tools & Paint Review area, due to the time between releases and the volume of reviews that we post. To counter this, we’ll be putting all the sets in this thread going forward, so that anyone with an ICM kit can check the availability of a suitable set, and only have to read that they have a polypropylene bottle holding 12ml of paint the once. It should cut down on the instances of déjà vu too, which is always nice. Below you can see the results of our initial testing, complete with painted spoons that help to show off the smoothness and effect that light and shade has on the colours. The individual sets will be listed below these, with photos and a note of the colours included for your reference. Testing with Airbrush I used Ultimate Acrylic Thinners to dilute the paint to spray through my Gunze PS770 airbrush, which has a 0.18 needle chucked in. The paint dilutes well once it has been mixed thoroughly, and sprays well through my airbrush, which has a smaller than usual needle that is a good test of the finesse of the pigment grind of any brand, some of which don’t spray very well though anything less than a 0.3mm needle. There were no problems with blockages at all, and the coverage was excellent after my usual ad hoc dilution method, which was probably nowhere near the 40-60% thinners or water that’s suggested on the pack. The photo below shows the five actual colours sprayed out onto plastic spoons that have been prepared by buffing with a fine grade flexible sanding stick of the kind you use in the penultimate step before buffing to a shine. As the paint dried it obtained a highly matt finish with the exception of the Oily Steel paint, which is clearly semi-gloss. The Satin Varnish also worked very well diluted with water, sprayed over the spoons that were also partially taped up to perform two functions at once. The satin patina that resulted is exactly what was expected, and the tape lifted no paint at all, despite my best efforts to do so. Bear in mind that the spoons were prepped by a buff with a very fine sanding sponge to give them a chance of adhesion. There was very little damage to the cured paint from scraping my fingernails across the surface too. There were track-marks of course, but no lifting of paint at all. Testing with Paint Brush As usual I used a #6 synthetic filbert brush from AMMO, which has slightly curved edges to keep tramlines in the paint to a minimum. The colours brushed extremely well with one exception, which was the Oily Steel. It appeared to pull up when over-brushed during application, despite the surface remaining wet, which resulted in the appearance of tiny fibre-like structures in the paint that led to a gritty finish that was also translucent even after two coats, obtaining a rather lumpy opaqueness after three coats. The rest of the colours covered perfectly after two coats with minimal brush marks visible, which was thoroughly impressive to this long-lapsed brush painter, and some were almost completely opaque after one coat, save for the fact that they were laid down over a white surface. The undiluted Satin Varnish brushed out well over the matt surface of the brush painted spoon undersides, and I had to leave it until the next day to have my evening meal. The satin effect was excellent again, and the paint was tough enough to stand up to my fingernail test without lifting, although you can’t avoid leaving tracks across the surface due to the deposition of tiny particles from your fingernail on the surface. The Sets We’ve updated this review with all the sets that we’ve reviewed over the last couple of years (how time flies!), and will keep adding the new ones so that it becomes a comprehensive reference. WWII Marder I (3003) This set contains the following colours: 1060 Middle Stone, 1071 Camouflage Green, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1038 German Grey, 1027 Gun Metal, 1002 Matt Varnish B-26K Invader (3007) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1058 Tan Earth, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1002 Black, 1024 Silver, 2002 Satin Varnish OV-10A Bronco (3008) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1031 Warm Grey, 1032 Blue Grey, 1026 Oily Steel, 1002 Black, 2002 Satin Varnish Laffly (3009) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1042 Pale Sand, 1052 Hull Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1027 Gun Metal, 2001 Matt Varnish Basic Colours (3010) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1002 Black, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1004 Deep Red, 1005 Dark Blue, 1006 Deep Green The rear of the box shows the following: USAAF Pilots 1944-45 (1012) This set contains the following colours: 1002 Black, 1008 Deep Brown, 1052 Hull Red, 1068 Olive Green, 1044 Basic Skin Tone, 1059 Green Ochre American Civil War Union Infantry (3013) This set contains the following colours: 1037 Dark Grey, 1026 Oily Steel, 1075 Grey-Blue, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1017 Gold, 1043 Light Flesh German WWII Aviation (3014) This set contains the following colours: 1074 Pale Blue, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1070 German Field Grey, 1035 Grey-Green, 2002 Satin Varnish WWII Soviet Aviation (3016) This set contains the following colours: 1032 Blue Grey, 1033 Sky Grey, 1036 neutral Grey, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1071 Camouflage Green, 2003 Gloss varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Bundeswehr Vehicles & AFVs (3017) This set contains the following colours: 1026 Oily Steel, 1060 Middle Stone, 1072 US Dark Green, 1039 Rubber Black, 1052 Hull Red, 1073 4BO The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Royal Air Force (3018) This set contains the following colours: 1054 Chocolate, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1037 Dark Grey, 1032 Blue Grey, 1027 Gun Metal, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Cargo Trucks (3019) This set contains the following colours: 1046 Blood Red, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1066 grass Green, 1068 Olive Green, 1001 White, 2003 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Try Me (3020) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1002 Black, 1027 Gun Metal, 1073 4BO Green, 1011 Clear Red, 2004 Grey Primer The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Japanese Aviation (3021) This set contains the following colours: 1063 Green-Grey, 1023 Aluminium, 1025 Natural Steel, 1062 British Khaki, 1073 4BO Green, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Helicopter Pilots – Vietnam War (3023) This set contains the following colours: 1060 Middle Stone, 1062 British Khaki, 1002 Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1073 4BO Green, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWI US Infantry (3024) This set contains the following colours: 1059 Green Ochre, 1055 Deck Tan, 1061 Green Brown, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1008 Deep Brown, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Armed Forces of Ukraine (3025) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1035 Grey Green, 1041 Buff, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1054 Chocolate, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Helicopters (3026) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1072 US Dark Green, 1001 White, 1007 Deep Red, 1027 Gun Metal, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Ghost of Kyiv (3027) This set contains the following colours: 1028 Offwhite, 1033 Sky Grey, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1037 Dark Grey, 1038 German Grey, 2002 Satin Varnish US Aviation 1980-90 (3028) This set contains the following colours: 1055 Deck Tan, 1056 Light Earth, 1039 Rubber Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1032 Blue Grey, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Ships of the Kriegsmarine (3029) This set contains the following colours: 1007 Deep Red, 1018 Brass, 1037 Dark Grey, 1056 Light Earth, 1027 Gun Metal, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Civilians (3030) This set contains the following colours: 1005 Deep Purple, 1008 Deep Brown, 1009 Deep Green, 1030 Ivory, 1047 Matt Red, 1077 Dark Blue The rear of the box shows the following: Fire Trucks (3031) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1007 Deep Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1023 Aluminium, 1060 Middle Stone, 1012 Clear Blue The rear of the box shows the following: WWII German Tank Crew (3032) This set contains the following colours: 1024 Silver, 1004 intense Pink, 1002 Black, 1036 Neutral Grey, 1070 German Field Grey, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWII RAF Pilots (3033) This set contains the following colours: 1077 Dark Blue, 1075 Grey Blue, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1054 Chocolate, 1060 Middle Stone, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: American Civil War Confederate Infantry (3034) This set contains the following colours: 1075 Grey Blue, 1076 Deep Sky Blue, 1036 Neutral Grey, 1055 Deck Tan, 1020 Bronze, 2002 Satin varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Personal Protective Equipment (3035) This set contains the following colours: 1045 Medium, Orange, 1035 Grey Green, 1011 Clear Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1015 Clear Yellow, 1024 Silver The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Aircraft Armament (3036) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1057 Ochre, 1037 Dark Grey, 1002 Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1026 Oily Steel The rear of the box shows the following: WWII US Infantry (3037) This set contains the following colours: 1041 Buff, 1058 Tan Earth, 1031 Warm Grey, 1072 US Dark Green, 1008 Deep Brown, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Wehrmacht Trucks (3038) This set contains the following colours: 1038 German Grey, 1040 Beige, 1029 White Grey, 1052 Hull Red, 1072 US Dark green, 2003 Gloss varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Combat Vehicles Armed Forces of Ukraine (3040) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1011 Clear Red, 1027 Gun Metal, 1072 US Dark Green, 1039 Rubber Black, 1073 4BO Green The rear of the box shows the following: WWI British Infantry (3042) This set contains the following colours: 1018 Brass, 1059 Green Ochre, 1071 Camouflage Green, 1062 British Khaki, 1052 Hull Red, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Military Equipment Armed Forces of Ukraine (3039) This set contains the following colours: 1027 Gun Metal 1008 Deep Brown 1072 US Dark Green 1041 Buff 1002 Black 1073 4BO Green The rear of the box shows the following: Armed Forces of Ukraine (3041) This set contains the following colours: 1028 Off White 1072 US Dark Green 1058 Tan Earth 1062 British Khaki 1054 Chocolate 1031 Warm Grey The rear of the box shows the following: WWI & WWII Weapon & Equipment (3043) This set contains the following colours: 1025 Natural Steel 1027 Gun Metal 1035 Grey Green 1031 Warm Grey 1053 Leather Brown 1002 Black The rear of the box shows the following: WWI German Infantry (3044) This set contains the following colours: 1008 Deep Brown 1037 Dark Grey 1070 German Field Grey 1034 Dark Sea Grey 1038 German Grey 1072 US Dark Green The rear of the box shows the following: WWI French Infantry (3045) This set contains the following colours: 1075 Grey Blue 1076 Deep Sky Blue 1046 Blood Red 1055 Deck Tan 1008 Deep Brown 1002 Black The rear of the box shows the following: Luftwaffe Pilots (3046) This set contains the following colours: 1077 Dark Blue 1002 Black 1003 Deep Yellow 1054 Chocolate 1028 Off White 1024 Silver The rear of the box shows the following: WWII US Aviation (3047) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1001 White, 1068 Olive Green, 1002 Black, 1023 Aluminium, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Wehrmacht Afrika Korps (3049) This set contains the following colours: 1059 Green Ochre, 1041 Buff, 1038 German Grey, 1058 Tan Earth, 1060 Middle Stone, 1061 Green Brown The rear of the box shows the following: WWII British Royal Navy Aviation (3050) This set contains the following colours: 1074 Pale Blue, 1069 Extra Dark Grey, 1033 Sky Grey, 1022 Burnt Tin, 1028 Off White, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWI US Vehicles (3051) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1056 Light Earth, 1002 Black, 1060 Middle Stone, 1037 Dark Grey, 1051 Dark Rust The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Military Vehicles of Britain (3052) This set contains the following colours: 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1060 Middle Stone, 1061 Green Brown, 1028 Off White, 1071 Camouflage Green, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWII German U-Boats (3053) This set contains the following colours: 1033 Sky Grey, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1037 Dark Grey, 1018 Brass, 1026 Oily Steel, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Conclusion The paints were excellent through the airbrush with nothing in the way of drama during the testing process, including the metallics and varnish. The solid colours also brushed out very well, as did the varnishes. There is a little less paint in the bottles than some brands, but a shade more than others, so it’s about average. That is more than offset by the very reasonable price they’re asking for the set, even at RRP. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Been working on an old ICM Studebaker truck. I did this to learn some new skills regarding building weeled vehicles. The kit came from an old stash and it wasn't the best. The plastic had completly dried out so i broke very fast. However, i managed to pull of a decent vignette of a russian driver taking a break. Enjoy and all comments are more then welcome.

RAF Pilots in Tropical Uniforms (48080) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd During WWII, hostilities extended to the north of Africa and other warmer climes, such as the Pacific where aircrew wearing heavy coats, boots and trousers would be most uncomfortable at ground-level, and although they would have to add more layers once airborne, fighter and bomber crews spent at least a portion of their days waiting for the next mission, and would certainly feel the heat. In addition, tropical weighted clothing was also lighter in tone to add camouflage to their usefulness, often sandy coloured to match the terrain. Crew might wear shorts or lighter weight trousers and short sleeves, or simply roll up a long-sleeved shirt to cool off. This applied equally to the ground crews, who spent all their time stewing in oppressive heat and humidity. This figure set from ICM depicts five RAF characters, consisting of three aircrew, and two ground personnel in relaxed poses. It arrives in a shallow top-opening box with the usual captive flap on the lower tray, and inside is a single sprue plus instruction sheet, plus the by-now standard ICM paint system leaflet that matches the chart on one side of the instructions. The three aircrew figures are standing, two of them in shorts and calf-length flying boots, while the other is wearing long trousers, and all have their Mae West life vests on. The long trousered gentleman has his flight helmet on, and one of the others is carrying his, while the chap in the flat hat is without his, and is having a smoke. The two ground crew figures are also relaxed, one leaning his elbow against the aircraft with crossed legs, while the other fellow is kneeling, possibly inspecting something under the aircraft. They’re both wearing shorts of a slightly different shade than the aircrew, with their olive-green socks pulled up to calf height and standard-issue shoes on their feet. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. Having only looked as 1:35 figures recently, they seem small, although they are perfectly suited to 1:48 models of course, as demonstrated on the box art, which shows a Beaufort parked in the background, which is another of ICM’s excellent and relatively recent kits. The instructions have a sprue diagram and paint chart on one side, which corresponds to ICM’s acrylic paint system, and has the colour names in English and Ukrainian to assist with colour choices for those that don’t use ICM’s brand. The other side has drawings of the figures, with the paint colours picked out in red, while the part numbers are marked in black. Conclusion Excellent sculpting, natural poses and detail make this an excellent figure set to populate a diorama depicting any tropical environment war zone scene where British pilots and ground crew were found. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Kozak-001 (35015) 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Kozak series of vehicles are a Ukrainian-produced Mine Resistant Ambush Protected family that are based upon commercially available chassis, but are heavily modified with armour, some of which is under the crew compartment to deflect blast from a mine or IED. It was developed in response to a need for protected troop transports for reconnaissance, patrolling and other such tasks, and was first seen in 2014, although only a few proof-of-concept vehicles were made by Practika, in competition with several other types from other manufacturers, the Kozak going through to the next stage as one of the three that met the Ukrainian Army’s requirements. The original vehicle is based upon a heavily modified Iveco Eurocargo chassis, but the -001 design is based on the Iveco Daily, which has a shorter chassis, resulting in a more compact vehicle. Looking at any of the variants side-by-side you wouldn’t think they were related to any commercial platform, as the outward differences are so great. It doesn’t have a sharply V-shaped hull in the same respect that custom designs do, but most of the chassis’ length is protected by a shallower V-shaped armoured panel that underpins the crew compartment, and in concert with the anti-trauma seating that is installed within, it satisfies the needs of the Ukrainian forces in the event of an IED detonating underneath. The exposed wheel stations would likely be sacrificed in the blast, but the diversion of the explosive energy away from the crew is the key aspect. After the initial design, and subsequent production of the Kozak-001, the improved Kozak-2 was developed, incorporating a weapons station on the roof that allows the operator protection from small-arms fire, with vision slots that are protected by armoured glass in each of the side wall panels, plus a splinter-guard with more vision slots at the front, through which the machine gun projects, either mounting an NSV heavy machine gun, or another 7.62mm weapon, depending on availability and mission requirements. The Kozak-2 entered service in 2017, and has seen plenty of active service since the invasion of Ukraine that began on 24th of February 2022. The Kit This is a reboxing of a brand-new tooling from ICM of the Kozak-2 with new parts to backdate it, and has been made in cooperation with the vehicle’s manufacturers Practika, as noted on the box top in the top right, which bodes well. The kit arrives in a top-opening box, with a captive flap on the lower tray, and inside are seven sprues of grey styrene, two identical clear sprues, a bag containing five flexible black plastic tyres, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) of a copper-coloured metal, decal sheet, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy paper, and has profiles on the rear pages to help with painting and decaling. Detail is excellent, and as it’s a home-grown product, local knowledge will have come in very handy, as will their proximity for fact checking, although the vehicles have been rather busy of late, working tirelessly to recover areas of their country still under occupation. Construction begins with the chassis rails, which have a leaf-spring attached to the front, and two double-leaf arrangements that are each made from two halves at the rear. Small armour plates and other parts are fitted to the frontmost rail sides, then the cross-members are built, with two under the engine bay, a central four-part transfer box at the midpoint, a tough braced bar behind that, and another at the rear. Under the rear suspension is an additional cross-rail, plus a braced rail that has a pair of two-part tanks applied, one on each side before mounting. The solid floor pan is detailed with a three-part representation of the underside of the engine and sump, then the chassis rails are mated to the underside on tabs, adding a short drive-shaft that links the transmission to the transfer box, ready for when the axles are completed. The front axle is a thick assembly with differential bulge near the centre, which is made from two halves, and has the rear of the hubs attached at the ends, and a damper bar that joins to the chassis via links, and the drive-shaft that links it to the transfer box. A steering actuator and two armoured plates are fitted over the newly mounted axle, adding two dampers to the rear, and a C-shaped linkage that joins the two hubs together. The rear axle is built from four parts, and is much bulkier than the front, as are the hub assemblies, which are each three parts. This is then glued to the leaf-springs, adding dampers, drive-shaft, damper bar, another cross-member, and a towing shackle at the rear. The interior of the Kozak-001, the name of which, if you haven’t already guessed means ‘Cossack’, is a spartan compartment that is designed for a purpose and nothing more, keeping weight and clutter to a minimum, as well as reducing the likelihood of small parts becoming projectiles in the event of an IED detonation. The crew seats are built first, making the back from cushion and backrest, then adding this to the base cushion and two concertina-style side panels, plus front and rear sections, taking care to line up the concertina elements to minimise clean-up. An adjustment lever is fixed under the front edge, and you should bear in mind that the seats are handed, so take care to fix the correct one to the tread-plated floor on its guide-slots. A small gear lever is made from two halves and inserted into the centre console, which is moulded into the floor. The dash is a single moulding with three decals that has the three pedals glued into the lower portion, then has the multi-part steering wheel, column and separate stalks fitted on the left side, with a gaiter and hi/low ratio knob mounted in the centre of the dash low down. The dash is mounted on a central locating guide in front of the crew seats, and behind and between them a four-part rack with crew step/jump seat that has anti-slip tread-plate moulded into it, and acts as the support for the gunner when he is in action, folding away when not in use to keep obstruction to a minimum. Two individual passenger seats are built with two-part backs, adding tubular frames to the sides and head-rest that helps prevent crew displacement, flail and neck injuries, fixing onto the seat cushion that has more U-shaped tubes glued underneath that project up and help keep the sitter’s body in position in case of a sharp sideways jolt. A back frame and a pair of shock-absorbing tubes attach the frame to the deck behind the driving crew, facing forward. The other six seats are fitted centrally in an island formation with three on each side facing sideways. The base cushions are all moulded as a single linked unit, to which the lower tubes are fitted, adding two central supports in the space between them, then adding the seat backs, which are built identically and at the same time as the first pair. This assembly is then mounted on a pair of raised rectangular areas of the floor, ready for the body to be built up. The vehicle sides are one part each, and cover the entire length of the chassis, adding radiused bullet-proof windows in the sides, a foot-plate at the front, and drilling out three 1mm holes as indicated in a scrap diagram nearby, which also advises the removal of two loops on the top of the parts. An interior skin is prepared by adding grab-handles and weapon stowage clips under the windows, with the inner face of the shooting loupes moulded into the surface. The laminated right side is offered up to the chassis, adding the front wing liner and inner panel to the engine bay at the same time, then doing the same for the left side, before working on the windscreen panel, which has two panes inserted into the frames, and two instruments applied to the centre frame on the inside. This is mated to the bonnet and two windscreen wiper blades are fitted into pockets in the bonnet before joining the two. The rear bulkhead has an inner and outer skin, then has the multi-part bumper and clear light clusters applied to the lower edge. It would be a good idea to prepare the front and rear panels at the same time as the sides, not just for ease of painting, but also to ensure that the side panels are mounted to the correct angle and can’t sag while the glue cures. The roof has four small parts fitted to the underside before it is glued in place, completed with a pair of moulded-in escape hatches and the circular cut-out for the roof-mounted weapons station. The grille is fitted to the front of the vehicle, and has a thick bumper with moulded-in reflectors for the clear lights that are installed and painted with suitable clear shades, then have protective cages folded from PE parts, with a winch housing between them. The front skirt is made from two layers and has small sensors fitted into recesses, then is assembled on the front with the bumper, and a cow-catcher that is built from eight parts, including three horizontal slats that protect the grille. The Kozak-001 has four side doors, two on each side for the driving crew and front passengers, all of which have inner and outer skins plus glazing, with grab handles fitted inside, and handles on the outside, while the front doors have wing mirrors on large C-shaped tubular frames, and the rear doors have a circular cut-out that doubles as firing loupe for the front passengers. The rear doors are similar in construction, but with a smaller fixed window near the top, inserting into the frames at the rear. All doors can be posed open or closed as you please. Inverting the model allows fitting of the anti-mine keel panel, which has the ends closed off to prevent ingress of the explosive wavefront to maximise its effectiveness in diverting the blast laterally. Mudflaps are added to the rear of the front wheels, and on both sides of the rear wheels, then the wheels are made to fill the arches. The spare tyre is built first, adding a two-part hub from either side of the flexible tyres, and mounting it under the body at the rear. The rear pair of wheels have a slightly different pair of hub halves inserted from each side, and then have a choice of two styles of dust covers fixed over the outer face. The front wheels have similar two-part hubs, with an additional centre insert, and the same choice of dust covers over the front. They all fit onto their appropriate axles, but don’t put the model on its wheels just yet. There are a pair of crew steps to be fitted onto the keel panels under the rearmost side door on both sides, then the model is turned right-side up for all the external detail to be added to it. The first item is a searchlight, which has a clear lens and styrene rear, mounting on the right wing in front of a small part near the scuttle. A perforated mount for the pioneer tools is filled with four hand-tools before it is mounted on the right rear of the body. A two-part cage is closed around the searchlight, and is completed by adding two top bars, and a bracket that stands out past the side of the wing for another mirror that is added later. Under the tools a pair of three-part brackets are mounted on recesses, and on the opposite side a pair of towing bars are fitted under the windows on pins. Two small lifting eyes are glued to the scuttle, and an LED lamp with armoured shroud fits into a pair of recesses on the left wing. What looks like a tubular convoy light in a shroud is added to the centre above the rear doors, and five rungs are glued to the left side of the rear for access to the roof, with a sixth on a bracket that hangs down below the bodywork, adding a jerrycan in its holder to the left. Grab handles are fitted between and above the side doors, on the roof above the ladder, and on the front and sides of the bonnet to ease access to all the horizontal panels, and on the right flank, a cage is fixed to the body for another jerry can. The detailing is still far from over though, as the wing-mounted indicators and roof-line repeaters are positioned, with the more exposed lower wing lights protected by four half-torus PE guards that create a cage around them on both sides. PE cages are added around the rear lights too, bending the ends to match the profile, then adding a pair of stirrups below the back doors. The left door frame accepts a two-part exhaust that allows the vehicle to plough through water up to a metre deep without stopping to prepare. The machine gun turret is based on a ring under the floor, which has triangular supports for the side panels moulded-in, fitting two grab-handles to the inside of the hatch before installing it in the D-shaped cut-out. The two side armour panels have their bullet-proof windows inserted from inside, and are then assembled onto the base, adding an Y-frame support for the machine gun, which needs a 0.8mm hole drilling to accept the weapon, moulded with a separate spent-brass dump bag on the left, and with a three-part ammo box on the right, adding a folded bipod under the barrel, an adjustment lever on the vertical support, and another part affixed to the breech. The completed gun is then lowered onto the mount, securing its pin in the hole drilled earlier, then finishing off by adding a rear-view mirror on a bracket on the left side. The completed assembly then drops into the cut-out and is rotated to lock it in place. Markings There are four options on the decal sheet, all with a base coat of green, and various camouflages applied over the top. From the box you can build one of the following: Kyiv, 2016 Odessa, October 2016 Eastern Operational Territorial Unit of the National Guard of Ukraine, Autumn, 2019 South Eastern Ukraine, Autumn, 2022 Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion it’s good to see that Ukraine’s military equipment being kitted for us modellers, so we can show support in some small way for their fight. It’s a good-looking kit, and apart from adding some window blinds, strap for the top gunner, and a few cables in the passenger compartment, it’s an excellent rendition of the type. Hopefully, we’ll see some of the other variants in the future. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

ICM expect to release in 2025 a 1/48th Henschel Hs.129B-1 kit. Source: catalogue 2024 V P.

Hi All, This my first thread on Britmodeller so go easy on me!! Im James, ive had a passion for aviation since an early age and started model making in around 2009ish. I started with Airfix/Tamiya and have since slowly built up my skills since, I'm a CAD Designer by trade and have got into 3d printing I've got a Anycubic photo mono SE more on that in a minute... anyways this is my Gladiator build which started when I went on holiday to Malta late last year did all the spots and thought it would be interesting to have a pop at a Gladiator I like 32nd because I'm a bit of a sucker for super detailing and using evergreen styrene and 3d printing where I can to speed things along and add way more detail than by hand!! I'm using -icm 1:32 gladiator -eduard big ed for sea gladiator -xtradecal X32069 -various evergreen stock -resin 3d printer So this was my view in November This is what I got as a Christmas present from my parents unfortunately not a sea gladiator but I can fix that! this is what ill be aiming for the "iconic" photo of N5520 "faith" And so it begun around a month ago, I managed to find a decent side on view of the rear tube structure... I think you'll be able to tell where this is going. this enabled me to crate the base of the structure in evergreen 1.2mm rod which was great but I think this could be a bit better. Fusion is your friend knocked this up quickly .25mm thick A small production run of a couple of different angles the end result looked quite neat I did both sides just like the real thing the craziest thing is up to this point it only took 1 day the seat was next mounts and seat lever mountings modelled off reference images next I took a deep breath and took a dremmel to the right fuselage side to reveal the structure beneath over the next few weeks I slowly added little details as I found more reference images and items like air tanks and fuel tank were printed the oil cooler is a stand out feature on a gladiator with the panels off to I modelled one in fusion to fill the gap and here it is right up to date almost ready for some paint, you can't see here but I did do bracing wires from stretched sprue look forward to seeing everyones feedback another update soon.. James

At the Moscow "Мир детства 2021" expo, ICM has announced a 1/35th Sikorsky CH-54 Tarhe kit for 2022. Source: AlexGRD V.P.

Ki-21-1a Sally (48196) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Sally, as she was known by the Allies during WWII was a heavy bomber designed by Mitsubishi as a replacement for the Ki-20, in competition with Nakajima, who although they lost out on the design of the aircraft, were given the contract for the power plants, as their HA-5 engines were found to be superior to Mitsubishi’s offering that was originally installed in the winning design. A small number of airframes were also built by Nakajima, with a total of just over 2,000 built between them. It first flew in 1936 and was intended for long-range bombing missions against Soviet and Chinese opponents, first entering service in 1938 in operations against China. Initial experience showed that the design was lacking in some respects, extending to the crucial oxygen system that was initially found to be unreliable. The Ib was intended to address most of the issues, including the lack of armament and changes to the flying surfaces. It also had a remote tail gun installation, and could mount an additional fuel tank for extreme range missions. The type was pretty much obsolete by 1940, and mounting losses prompted the type’s withdrawal from front line service, and the sale of some of the superfluous airframes to nations that remained friendly to the Japanese Empire. Uses were still found for the type with the Japanese forces however, and the remaining aircraft were used until the end of the war as cargo transports, trainers, troop transports and communications hacks. The later variants had improved engine performance with new Mitsubishi units, some with alterations to the greenhouse behind the cockpit, which was changed to a turret on some, and removed entirely on transport variants. The Kit This is a reboxing of a brand-new tool from ICM, following on from its smaller 1:72 sibling kit that was relatively recently released by ICM. The kit arrives in a top-opening box that has a captive top flap on the bottom tray. Inside are seven sprues in grey styrene, a clear sprue in a separate bag, decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour with profiles for painting and decaling on the back pages. Detail is thoroughly modern, and extends to ribbing on the interior of most of the fuselage, restrained fabric depiction on the flying surfaces, full representation of the engines and a nice cockpit, plus a set of crystal-clear glazing parts. Construction begins with the fuselage halves, which have the unarmed early tail added to the rear on a keyed flange, a lozenge-shaped detail insert to make the wing root recess flush, and the side windows, ammo drums dotted around the interior, plus multiple well-detailed equipment boxes inserted in the cockpit area, O2 bottles in the wing area, and later a line of trunking that extends from the trailing edge of the wing to the tail. The mid-upper gunner’s compartment is built from a series of ribbed steps that are glued to a base with another step, which is then joined to a bulkhead at the front that forms the rear bulkhead of the bomb bay, and has ribbing along its lower portion, then the bomb bay roof is fitted out with eight bomb shackles before the sides and front bulkhead are installed, and it is then populated by four bombs that are each made from two halves, plus twin braces to each side of the stabilising fins at the rear. The bomb bay is joined to the underside of the cockpit floor, and in the recess that is part of the forward floor, detail is moulded into the top of the bomb bay, and it accepts one pilot’s rudder pedals that fit into pairs of holes in the deck. A seat with cushion is suspended over the recess, then another more substantial seat is attached to the floor at the port side with a lever to the side of it, adding a side console, throttle quadrant and two bow-tie control columns before the front bulkhead is fixed to the cockpit, plus a pair of two-part fuel tanks further back over the wing along the starboard wall, with a small equipment installation just forward. The cockpit assembly can then be inserted into the port fuselage half, adding the bomb-aimer’s position with a choice of two glazing parts, one with a cushion and vertical column, one bare, slotting into the cut-out under the nose. More ammo cans are dotted around the upper gunner’s stepped compartment, adding a clear porthole in the floor, and an internal ladder below the crew access door in the port side. The reason for the ammo cans includes side-firing and ventral machine guns, with a choice of weapons that have a plate magazine over the breech, or Type 89 machine guns, gluing the floor-mounted glazing panel into one side of the lower fuselage before it is closed. In the front, a rack of four O2 bottles are inserted in the roof of the nose, then the starboard fuselage is prepared in a similar manner as the port, fitting the wing root insert, adding glazing, instruments, machine gun ammo cans, a jump seat and the afore-mentioned trunk down the wall of the fuselage. The fuselage halves are closed around the instrument panel that has a pair of decals to depict the dials, a short pointed coaming, and centre throttle quadrant, plus the upper gunner’s seat that is suspended on four moulded-in struts that locate on corresponding depressions in the fuselage wall. You have a choice of posing the bomb bay open or closed, using a single part to depict it closed, or the four individual door parts that fold to the side in pairs with the help of a pair of retraction jacks at either end, which are all included on the sprues. The dorsal gunner’s fuselage insert is prepped by making the gun mount and dump bag that are both in two parts, and the twin guns mounted over it, which have a pair of half plate magazines fitted to the top of the breech, and a semi-circular pivot that flex-fits into recesses under the dorsal insert, after which you can glue the assembly into position in the top of the fuselage, taking care to align it minimise clean-up of seams. You have the same choice of two gun types for the nose gun that slides through a hole in the nose glazing, gluing into the nose while the canopy and dorsal glazing are fitted, being careful to paint the deck under the dorsal glazing before you add glue. The tail is begun by adding the elevator fins, which have separate flying surfaces and rudder panel, then the wings are prepared by inserting a two-part bay in each one before joining the upper and lower halves together, adding the ailerons into their slots and landing light lenses in the leading edges. They are then glued onto the wing root fairings on the fuselage, which have a lip to ensure proper location, and a slot for the short length of spar that extends from the wing to further improve joint strength. The wheels are installed under the wings before the engines and lower cowling are made up, starting with the tail-wheel slipped into its yoke, and then adding the two-part wheels to the H-frame main strut, which has a two-part support frame fitted to the front, and a long yoke with mudguard and additional V-strut that links the lower leg to the back of the bay. Four small parts are fixed to the wing inside the bays, and the lower cowlings are made up out of two halves trapping a round bulkhead, adding a pair of two-part intakes top and bottom, then sliding the lower nacelle over the completed wheels and mating the edges with the recessed lip of the lower wing surface. The engines are built-up on bulkheads with the cooling flaps moulded-in, a separate exhaust stack underneath, and a depiction of both cylinder banks, plus the front bell-housing with push-rods moulded-in, hiding the prop axle inside without glue so that the props can spin later, and fitting a wiring loom guide around the bell housing. The finished engines are covered by two cowling halves and a separate lip, gluing them to the front of the nacelles and finishing them off by adding the three-bladed prop and separate spinner. The model is completed by installing an antenna post and D/F loop over the canopy, and a curious-looking cranked pitot probe in the leading edge of the port wing that keeps the sensor out of the wing’s airflow. Markings There are five options on the decal sheet, with only two in light green-grey, one in wide camouflage stripes, another with a dense dark green squiggle camouflage scheme over green-grey, and the final choice with a fully green upper surface. From the box you can build one of the following: 60th Sentai, China, early 1939 – pre-production aircraft 60th Sentai, China, 1941 14th Sentai, probably China, 1941 105 Kyoiku Hiko Rentai, presumably 1942 64th Sentai, 1943 Decals are by ICM’s usual partner, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. As is common now with ICM kits, there is a page of the instruction booklet devoted to the masking of the canopy, using the printed shapes on the right of the page and the diagrams on the left to create your own masks if you wish. It goes up to 130 thanks to the extensive greenhouse glazing. Conclusion A nicely detailed and most welcome new tooling of this short-lived (in front line service at least) heavy bomber in its first variant, which should by now have seen the older vacform tooling from another manufacturer no-longer needed unless you like a challenge. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Gotha Go.244B-2 (48224) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd Germany broke new ground in WWII in the successful use of Paratroop landings in gliders that met with some initial successes, although that method of delivering soldiers and materiel hasn’t seen much use since the end of WWII, possibly following the experiences of the Allies later in the war and around D-Day. Gotha created the small DFS 230 that was used by Fallschirmjager units during the early part of the war, and the RLM subsequently issued a specification for a larger glider that could carry 20 fully equipped troops into action, or alternatively bring equipment of an equivalent weight to the battle. Gotha’s offering was a simple tapered box on wings, but with a twin-tail boom that allowed the cargo version to unload from the rear using a simple flip-up rear fuselage, and later the troop carrier could also unload from the rear with the addition of new doors. The type entered service soon after its initial flight in 1941, with over 1,500 manufactured in various guises. The initial A series was split into troop and cargo types, with the following B series being improved from experience and sporting upgraded landing gear, plus double rear doors for faster troop exit. A further C series was intended for water landings using a boat-shaped hull to carry explosive-laden small boats to maritime targets, although that never reached service. Once Gotha we happy with it as a glider, the immediately experimented with adding engines in nacelles that extended the twin booms past the leading edge of the wings, settling on the Gnome-Rhône 14Ms for most production airframes, mounted in counter-rotating forms to reduce torque steering during take-off and landing to acceptable levels. This would allow the aircraft to both power themselves to their destination, and if they remained undamaged after landing, they could also make the trip back home to begin the process again. It also freed-up the He.111 or Stuka tow-planes that would be given other duties instead. Take-off was marginal with a heavy load however, so RATO bottles were developed to give the aircraft an extra boost, which wouldn’t be required at the other end of the journey, all being well. The Kit This is a minor but important re-tool of ICM’s recent kit of this boxy glider, that turns the model from a glider to a powered aircraft, which changed its role substantially. The kit arrives in a top-opening box covered in a painting of the aircraft in-flight with its landing gear clearly visible, and the slight upward angle to the new engine nacelles when compared to the booms. The usual captive flap on the lower tray exposes thirteen (or eleven if you count them as they arrive) sprues in grey styrene, one of clear parts, the instruction booklet in spot colour on glossy paper, and a long slender decal sheet. The first thing that’s evident on perusal of the sprues is that the wingspan is substantial, and the designers at ICM have put a lot of effort into the detail that’s moulded-into the model, especially the sections that are fabric over a tubular framework. Construction begins with the large floor space, which is made up from the fabric outer skin with visible ribbing, onto which the floor surface is added in two sections, after drilling several 1mm holes in the skin first. The forward section is then enclosed by a tubular framework that stops at the centre bulkhead, which also has short spars moulded-in, with a bulkhead between the passenger and pilot sections, adding a headrest for the pilot. The twenty passenger seats are each made from horizontal and vertical sections that are then arranged into two rows of 10 and are fitted out with diagonal braces that mate with the rear legs, plus a length of top bracketing that allow the seats to stand clear of the wall. Both rows are glued into the passenger compartment either side of the fuselage behind the central bulkhead, and a triangular section of framework is attached to the aft section of the area, following which the side walls are made up from two parts each, and either five or six windows on the sides that are applied from the inside. The walls are fixed to the floor assembly along with the roof once the cockpit is made up. This isn’t a training variant, but the controls are still duplicated on both sides of the cockpit for redundancy, starting with a well-detailed pair of rudder pedals that each comprise four parts. The control column differs between stations, with the pilot having a column tilted at the top with separate yoke, while the co-pilot has a straight stick for when he needs to take over, for example when landing under fire and the pilot is incapacitated. The seats differ too, as the pilot has a sturdier five-part seat that has an adjustment wheel, while the co-pilot has a simple two-part affair. These are all inserted onto a cockpit floor that is placed within the front of the fuselage at the time when the sides and roof are both added with a 15g nose weight under the floor, and the instrument binnacle with decal on the left in front of the pilot. The cockpit surround is incomplete at this stage, fitting the roof panel first, then adding the nose ‘cone’ along with another shared instrument panel on a set of braces made up from two parts, plus another decal. The floor under the pilot’s feet is inserted from outside with the fuselage inverted, plus two panels of side glazing and a single windscreen part that has an optional 0.8mm hole drilled in it to mount the guns, and a throttle quadrant from the new sprues. Take it easy if you decide to drill the canopy, as clear styrene is much easier to damage because of its brittle nature, and can star when pushed through, leaving an ugly scar. Light pressure, a blob of BluTak behind it and plenty of patience is the way to go. The wings of the 244 are necessarily long for lift, thanks to its glider heritage, and for later installation on the tips of the booms the two new engine nacelles are made in a pair from two halves, adding radiator fairings and cores before closing them up. The wings are each moulded as top and bottom skins, which have some lovely ribbing and other details moulded-in as you can see above, and have the flying surfaces as separate sub-assemblies of two parts each. Once the halves are joined, they have the new front nacelle fairings added top and bottom to where the booms will be, then have the two flap sections and long ailerons slotted into the trailing edges. This is repeated again in mirror-image of course, and the two wings are slotted onto their projecting spar sections, taking care to put them on with the leading edges and canopy pointing in the same direction. A pair of supports are added underneath in recessed sockets that have been amended for the new variant, although I’d be tempted to leave those off until after main painting was complete so they don’t get damaged or lead to rough surface texture of the paint. The aft section of the fuselage is next to be assembled, adding the windows inserted from inside of the tapered panels, and the internal framework added, then they are set apart by three more framework sections, after which the lower part with window, internal floor with steps, and roof with framework and observation window (the reason for the steps) added, to be finished off with a transparent end cap giving even better field of view, just in case they’re being stalked by a fighter from behind. The door pivots upward between the booms, and can either be glued closed, or propped open with five supports holding it at the correct angle. Again, if you are using the self-defence armament, another 0.8mm hole needs to be drilled near the hatch in the roof of the aft section. The booms are simple and made from two parts each, with separate rudders and a single two-part elevator panel with separate flying surfaces. The instructions show the completed assembly being offered up to the rear of the model, but it may be more prudent to glue one boom in place first, then add the other with the elevator once the glue is set on the first boom. A forest of actuators and mass balances are added all around the flying surfaces later, but first the Gnome-Rhone engines are built from two banks of pistons that are made from front and rear halves each, plus intake pipework, push-rods, and finally the exhaust collector and final outlet, which has a hollow tip thanks to an insert near the end. Another pipe with connector is added to give the engine a symmetrical pair of top exhausts to trail back over the cowlings, which is exactly where they go in the next step. The main landing gear is made next, based on a single strut per side that is supported on an extended A-frame that runs forward under the fuselage, and sports a two-part wheel at each end. The nose gear is suited to being towed, as it has a long beam running forward from the pivot-point, with the castor wheel behind it, and a pair of forks at the front. The props are moulded as single three-blade parts, which are sandwiched between the spinner and backplate, each one with a pin on the rear that fits into the bell-housing at the front of the engines. The final parts are used for two optional self-defence machine guns that are fixed to the top of the windscreen and in front of the observation window in the aft section of the fuselage, both having a moulded-in concertina dump bag for the spent brass, and a double C-shaped ‘snail’ mag clipped over the breech. Markings There are two decal options on the sheet, both with yellow wingtips with a tail band in the same colour, and both wearing splinter camouflage over the topsides. ICM have also included a printed template for masking the copious glazing that’s present on this aircraft, which should come in handy and save some hassle, even if you’re confident masking canopies yourself. From the box you can build one of the following: Go.244B-2, 106 Special Purpose Battle Groups (KGr.z.b.V.106), Kirovohrad, 1942 Go.244B-2, Probably Hagenow, Germany, 1942 Decals are by ICM’s usual partner, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion The Go.242 was a quirky-looking box that appeals due to many factors, but with props it still manages to look peculiar. Detail is excellent, extending throughout the interior and within the engine cowlings, so it’s something a little bit out of the usual. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Hello fellows! Here, my new project: the Tiger Moth, British training aircraft, from ICM in 1/32 scale. This is the boxart: : And a pic of the sprues: According to the instructions, I opened several holes in the fuselage and wings, in order to put the rigging. I passed through the holes standard sewing thread. After this, the fuselage was painted in green cockpit: Here, the two halves glued together: After, I assembled and painted the engine: Also, I added a couple of wires...I want this part be visible. For this, I'm going to use small magnets to fix the cover in place, without gluing, but allowing to remove it if desired. This other side, will be closed after assembly: A couple of pics of the engine and the cover open. The black arrow shows the place where the first magnet is glued: And here, the magnets in the cover side: Here, notice the magnet put in the front part. Finally, I needed four small magnets, in order to fix the cover properly: And this is the final result. The cover can be easily removed to show the engine: And close after. That's all for the moment. I hope you like it, and thanks for watching! Josep

Hello fellows, Let me show my last project. The Tiger Moth DH82 A- British Training Aircraft -1/32 from ICM. This model has been fun to make, and everything went well, until the time to put the wiring, where it was not possible for me to get the result I wanted. The rigging were loose, after several attempts to put them in tension. In this sense, the difficulty has exceeded my skills, and I have finally let some rigging loose. I hope that the next model with rigging will be better...🤞 Anyway, I leave you these photos of the finished model. I'm quite happy with the painting, camouflage scheme and the installation of some small magnets to be able to remove the cover and see the engine. Here, a link to WIP: As always, thanks you guys for your comments. Cheers! Josep

WWII Pilots of British Naval Aviation (32118) 1:32 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd As if flying in and out of an aircraft carrier wasn’t dangerous enough, during WWII the enemy tended to shoot at you if you got in visual range, and the brave British Naval fliers kept going out when bidden, often in biplane aircraft that were arguably long overdue for replacement, such as the Fairey Swordfish. Their crews were truly legendary, and frequently suffered heavy casualties, despite the German gunners having trouble predicting their advances with their automated gun directors because they were so slow. When a torpedo bomber is lining up on its target however, flying straight and steady is required for accuracy, giving the enemy gunners a comparatively easy target to aim at. The Kit This figure set is a new tooling from ICM to place on or near your 1:32 British Naval project from WWII, whether it’s a Stringbag or not. The kit arrives in a slim top-opening box with the usual captive flap on the lower tray, and inside is a single sprue in grey styrene that contains parts to make the three gentlemen that are depicted on the box art. The three figures include a rating, a pilot and an officer, all looking in (presumably) the same direction as if they are watching a colleague coming in to land. The rating is shielding his eyes against bright sunlight, and the officer is pointing in the direction of the object of their attention, while the pilot is stabilising his parachute on one shoulder, with the other hand in his pocket, wearing full flight gear that includes boots, jacket and flying helmet plus goggles. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. The pilot’s Mae West life vest is separated from the front of the figure to ease moulding, and his ‘chute is made from an additional three parts, plus his goggles are separate too, as are the straps under his chin, depicted undone in this boxing. The other figures are each detailed with their own accessories, the officer having a folder moulded into his right arm, while the rating is carrying a can of paint moulded into his hand, with a separate paintbrush resting across the top of the lid. The instructions are a combined painting and assembly guide, using black numbers to identify parts for the figures, and red boxed letters for paints, cross-referencing the letters against a paint chart on the opposite side that gives names of paint colours in Ukrainian and English, plus ICM’s own paint codes. From these you should be well able to determine which paints to use if you don’t happen to have the necessary ICM paints to hand. Conclusion Detail is excellent, as are the poses and cloth drape and folds over their limbs, making this a compelling figure set to add that human scale to your 1:32 project. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

ICM is to release new tool 1/32nd Gloster Gladiator kits: - ref. 32040 - Gloster Gladiator Mk.I - released Sources: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/gloster-gladiator-mk-i-wwii-british-fighte/ https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM32040 - ref. 32041 - Gloster Gladiator Mk.II - released Source: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/gloster-gladiator-mk-ii-2/ - ref. 32042 - Gloster Sea Gladiator Mk.II - released Source: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/gloster-sea-gladiator-mk-ii-3/ - ref. 32043 - Gloster Sea Gladiator Mk.I with British Pilots in Tropical Uniform - released Source: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/gloster-gladiator-mk-i-2/ - ref. 32044 - Gloster J8 Gladiator - Swedish fighter - released Source: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/j-8-gladiator/ - ref. 32045 - Gloster Sea Gladiator Mk.II with Royal Navy pilots - released Source: https://icm.com.ua/aviation/gloster-sea-gladiator-mk-ii-with-royal-navy-pilots/ Dedicated decals by ICM: - ref. D3204 - Gladiator Mk.I/II in Foreign Services - released Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICMD32004 V.P.

Ok this STGB came up way quicker than I expected, but the Turd is finished so there’s room for this build. The model is ICM’s wonderful MiG-25 RBF, the main reason I bought it (it was some time ago) was for that crazy scheme on the box, bonkers and I love it... ..... and yes not to disappoint some or to cause worry about my mental health, there is some AM bits as well ..... .... some nice new cans, I did have some resin wheels for her, but I stole them for the M-G-25 PD. So I had to go shopping for more, well that’s my excuse! ...and along the way these fell into the basket as well! Now these Reskit U/c bits.....WOW!!! They are so finely detailed and printed, they even have special instructions, 20+ steps on how to release them from their cages! Finally, the scheme, well as much as I liked that crazy box art one I am now building on a theme so she will be a Ukraine bird. For this I’m using one of FoxBot’s wonderful decal sets. They give you a choice of RBF, RBS, and RBT versions. I’ll be building the RBT, the scheme of which is on the other side of this picture! Plus I’ll be using FoxBot’s stencils. When they were in the early designing phase of the Foxbat, they wanted to know what the secret was to producing the ultimate fighter/interceptor! At that stage it was the Phantom and thought the secret to its success was all the stencils on it, so they decided to go one better! Instead of the thousands of stencils as on the Phantom they put billions on the Foxbat!!! Oh dear....I’m going to be playing “Where’s Ivan” for the next year or so with these! The reason why I still haven’t finished the PD!! There should be a nice quick build, no nasty surprises with this model, plus I’m be fitting the new cans as I build the model, not right at the end as I did with the PD......and you there will be a thread for that one.

Hello all 😁 Well after nearly a year!! 😳 I'm back in the game. 1/1 scale work pretty much done and I have my room back. I know I have two other builds on the go, the Dorchester which I will return to one day and the Mantis which will I will carry on with soon. The question, of course, was what to build next? I have an extensive stash and while discussing the options with a good friend (Who has 12 un finished planes which made me feel a bit better) I plumped for a Tetrarch. So off I went to the local model shop in Glastonbury but they didn't have one. They didn't have much I fancied actually. The next option was a Crusader MkIII with a Sunshield cover but then I spotted this. I have always fancied one. It does look like something from WW1 with that typical open cab, no frills British design. It doesn't even have proper seats!! Good old Leyland 🙄 There is a lot of big flat bits which most of which will end up in the parts box as I plan to do my own canvas and frame. Quality is rather nice, this is my first ICM build. Crisp and very clean with virtually no seamlines. Even the ejector pins are few and far between and very well placed. The detail is probably on a par with Tamya which is no bad thing but it's not up there with Gecko or Riich. The extras, The glass is a bit thick and I'll replace that with some PET sheet. The PE is simple but effective, the decals are a bit limited but look ok especially the addition of the instruments which is often lacking in other kits. And of course you have my pet hate, those bloody nylon wheels. WHY!!!! It's not a toy, they paint terribly and can't be weighted. Do proper weighted injection moulded ones. We wouldn't have to spend another £20 on after market Grrrrrrrrr. So in my haste I cracked on with the build and in that haste I forgot to take any pics until I had finished for the day. Anyway it went together very nicely. Very little clean up, instructions made sense and everything fitted . So nice 😎 Engine won't be seen so I wont add any wires etc. There are two options for the front steering. Straight ahead with fixed parts or at an angle with individual parts. Nice touch. I plumped for straight ahead but I haven't glued the 'discs' yet as that will happen when I put the wheels on. (That's why they look a bit wonky) Everything else is pretty straight and flat 👍🏻 The aftermarket wheels will take about a week to get here and I've ordered some PE which is coming from Uzbekistan or somewhere which will take about a month. I'll do what I can with the cab and rear but that will be a good point in which to carry on with the Mantis. So that was my first day bag since last May! Very nice it was to and very therapeutic. I needed this. Good to be back chaps and chapesses 🤡 Andrew