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M3A5 Medium Tank (63519) 1:35 I Love Kit via Creative Models Ltd The US Army had been remarkably complacent with regard to tank development in the lead-up to WWII, and approached war with precious few tanks that were hopelessly outclassed. This realisation resulted in a frantic clamour to produce a modern tank that could hold its own in combat, with the M3 Lee coming into service as a stop-gap measure within a year of its first design while the M4 Sherman was in development. As a consequence of its rather rushed introduction, it was known to have a number of fairly serious flaws, but it also had some strengths that (at least in part) made up for them. Its high profile and sponson mounted main gun gave the enemy a large target, but when the 75mm main gun was brought to bear on a target, it was surprisingly powerful and effective, gaining a reputation in North Africa. The Lee was originally fitted with a petrol engine and had a riveted hull, but went through several iterations where the construction method varied between cast and welded, then back to riveted again, and with a diesel engine to remove reliance of petrol, which was more flammable than diesel, an aspect that became critical on penetration by an enemy shell of the engine component. The A3 used twin diesels coupled together to make the GM6046, and the superfluous and vulnerable side doors were welded closed, and later removed entirely, using a welded hull. The A4 was a petrol-engined variant that was used for training in the US, followed by the A5, which reverted to riveted hulls that could become lethal projectiles inside the hull when hit by an enemy round. Fewer than 600 were built, and although they saw service, they were only used by US forces once in active combat, with some vehicles supplied to other countries for their use. It was the last variant of the Grant/Lee to be fielded other than specials, 105mm howitzer equipped Priests, and ARV derivatives. The Kit I Love Kit have created their own line of newly tooled kits of the M3 Grant, starting in 2021 and carrying on with various new boxings in the following two years, plus this new one that is based upon the later M3A5. The kit arrives in a top-opening box with a painting of the vehicle on the front, and a cardboard divider in the lower tray to keep the hull parts and other sprues from rattling around during transit. Inside the box are eleven sprues and three individual parts in sand-coloured styrene, eight brown sprues, a clear sprue, a small Photo-Etch (PE) brass fret, decal sheet, an instruction booklet printed in black and white, and a sheet of painting and decaling profiles printed in colour on glossy paper. Detail is good for this exterior kit, although there is no rolled steel armour texture moulded into any of the plates, but there is a very fine sand-cast texture present on the turret parts, which could be improved by using liquid cement and a rough brush to stipple the sand-cast texture a little deeper, and texture could also be added to the main armour panels if you feel the urge, using simple techniques that you can look up on the internet or YouTube. Construction begins with the running gear for a change, making up the bogies from two wheels on a pair of swing-arms each, being careful to orient the Vertical Volute Spring Suspension (VVSS) parts correctly, using the scrap diagram to assist you. Six bogies are made in total, with return-rollers in the top of the units, held in place by the front panel that also holds the swing-arms in position. The curved lower glacis is next, adding two bolted flanges to the centre, and inserting a pair of towing eyes with shackles in slots at the sides of the final drive housings. The rear bulkhead has no access doors for this variant, adding horizontal exhausts and more towing eyes with shackles, plus idler wheel axles before it is mated to the rear of the lower hull part, mounting the glacis assembly to the other end. The bogies are fixed three per side on raised plates moulded into the hull, then making the drive sprocket from two parts, and the idler wheels from four parts each so that the tracks can be installed. The track links are made from four parts each that have a total of six sprue-gates to remove, with 77 links per side, and no ejector-pin marks to deal with, thankfully. Once the tracks are in place, the fenders are detailed with PE shackles and light cages, adding the lights with clear lenses, and the rounded-down ends to the rear of each one, locating them on the sides of the hull on two lugs per side. This variant has a machine gun turret on top of the turret, which was a negative aspect that raised its profile and made it an easier target on the battlefield. The turret walls are moulded as one part, sliding a .303 machine gun through a cylindrical mount that is locked in place by a pair of pegs that are slid in from the outside, allowing the gun to elevate if you are careful with the glue. The hatch is a two-part assembly that is glued in place over the top, adding a pair of brackets to the shallow vertical face above the machine gun, and covering the two side-mounted viewing ports with hinge-down covers. The vertical step behind the turret has a viewport with clear slot inserted, fixing two C-shaped PE parts in a small recess on the opposite side, an aerial base on the diagonal, then putting it aside while the turret is built. The mantlet has the barrel and recuperator inserted, pushing a .30cal machine gun through from the inside, clipping it inside the upper turret, then closing it in by gluing in the turret ring, which acts as the trunnions for the pivot point of the main gun. The turret roof has a simple mushroom vent fitted, and the machine gun turret is inserted into the top ring, adding a vision port into the armoured cut-out in the side, dropping it into the hole in the roof later. The engine deck is detailed with pioneer tools, filler caps, PE mesh, grab-handles, and rear light clusters on small vertical panels at the rear that are fixed to the sides of a tapering cooling grille with armour panel protecting the rear. Two hull side panels have hatches with vision ports inserted where the vestigial doors are, drilling a few holes in the upper hull part, then installing the vertical step made earlier, a T-shaped stiffener to the roof, and adding the side panels over the blank sides of the upper hull, then fitting more filler caps, lugs, vents, more hatches and vision ports with clear slots, plus two stowage boxes to be fitted on the sloped sides of the engine deck, which is slotted into position and snugged up against the vertical step behind the turret ring, and another shallow box that sits low on the glacis plate. The turret can be twisted into position at this stage, but it is probably best to install the 75mm gun first. A semi-cylindrical mantlet is clipped vertically into the surround, gluing a plate horizontally across the back to prevent it popping out again, slotting the barrel into the hole in the mantlet, clamping a two-part counter-weight to the muzzle, and adding a small part to the top of the surround, which includes a pivot peg that is locked in position in the starboard hull without glue, the top peg held in place by the two-part roof section, which has a periscope added to one side of the pivot. The completed upper hull is then glued into place on the lower, completing the model. Markings There are two decal options on the sheet, but as usual with Trumpeter/HobbyBoss/I Love Kit there is no information offered on the location, period or regiments of the decal options, but the vehicle codes should allow the intrepid modeller to find out the back-story if they feel the need. From the box you can build one of the following: Most of the sheet is printed in white, with just the codes in blue. Registration is therefore not an issue, while colour density and sharpness are perfectly adequate for most modellers, but if you’re a stickler, you could do worse than check your references before proceeding to paint. Conclusion A well detailed exterior kit of the M3A5 that should satisfy many, with a simple build save for the tracks that are perhaps a little over-complicated for some, and will take some time to do justice to. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

M3 Grant Medium Tank (63520) 1:35 I Love Kit via Creative Models Ltd The US Army had been remarkably complacent with regard to tank development in the lead-up to WWII, and approached war with precious few tanks that were hopelessly outclassed. This realisation resulted in a frantic clamour to produce a modern tank that could hold its own in combat, with the M3 Lee coming into service as a stop-gap measure within a year of its first design while the M4 Sherman was in development. As a consequence of its rather rushed introduction, it was known to have a number of fairly serious flaws, but it also had some strengths that (at least in part) made up for them. Its high profile and sponson mounted main gun gave the enemy a large target, but when the 75mm main gun was brought to bear on a target, it was surprisingly powerful and effective, gaining a reputation in North Africa. A great many examples were exported to the British and Russian forces in the early stages of WWII, and after a great proportion of British armour was left on the beaches of Dunkerque, the need became even greater. The British stipulated some adaptations to improve the vehicle's performance, which most visibly included a new larger turret with a bustle to accommodate radio gear, and a cupola instead of the sub-turret with machine gun mount, which was named the Grant after general Lee's opponent. Due to the pressing need for suitable numbers however, the British did take some unadapted Lees, and the Soviet Union also took delivery of a substantial number of Lee variants, although some ended up at the bottom of the sea thanks to U-Boat action. The Soviets disliked the Lee intensely and gave it a wide berth wherever they could in favour of the more modern and capable T-34, the production of their own tanks ramping up substantially after the initial shock of Operation Barbarossa, which led to the Lee/Grant's retirement from front-line service with them by 1943, while the other Allies continued to use them (mainly in Africa) until the end of the war. The Kit I Love Kit have created their own line of newly tooled kits of the M3 Grant, starting in 2021 and carrying on with various new boxings in the following two years, plus this new one that is based upon the British specification, evidenced by the lack of cupola and machine gun turret on the main turret, the majority of Grant Mk.Is were based upon the M3 design, with a small number on the later M3A2. The kit arrives in a top-opening box with a painting of the vehicle on the front, and a cardboard divider in the lower tray to keep the hull parts and other sprues from rattling around during transit. Inside the box are ten sprues and three individual parts in sand-coloured styrene, eight brown sprues, a clear sprue, a small Photo-Etch (PE) brass fret, an instruction booklet printed in black and white, and a sheet of painting and decaling profiles printed in colour on glossy paper. Detail is good for this exterior kit, although there is no rolled steel armour texture moulded into any of the plates, and a very fine sand-cast texture is present on the turret parts, which could be improved by using liquid cement and a rough brush to stipple the sand-cast texture a little deeper, and texture could also be added to the main armour panels if you feel the urge. Construction begins with the running gear for a change, making up the bogies from two wheels on a pair of swing-arms each, being careful to orient the Vertical Volute Spring Suspension (VVSS) parts correctly, using the scrap diagram to assist you. Six bogies are made in total, with return-rollers in the top of the units, held in place by the front panel that also holds the swing-arms in position. The curved lower glacis is next, adding two bolted flanges to the centre, and inserting a pair of towing eyes with shackles in slots at the sides of the final drive housings. The rear bulkhead has a pair of access doors with PE hinges fitted into the hatch, adding exhausts and more towing eyes with shackles, plus idler wheel axles before it is mated to the rear of the lower hull part, mounting the glacis assembly to the other end. The bogies are fixed three per side on raised plates moulded into the hull, then making the drive sprocket from two parts, and the idler wheels from four parts each so that the tracks can be installed. The track links are made from four parts each that have a total of six sprue-gates to remove, with 77 links per side, and no ejector-pin marks to deal with, thankfully. Once the tracks are in place, the fenders are detailed with PE shackles and light cages, adding the lights with clear lenses, and the round ends to the rear of each one, locating them on the sides of the hull on two lugs per side. The vertical step behind the turret has a viewport with clear slot inserted, fixing two C-shaped PE parts in a small recess on the opposite side, putting it aside while the turret is built. The mantlet has the barrel inserted, pushing a .30cal machine gun through from the inside, clipping it inside the upper turret, then closing it in by gluing in the lower turret, which acts as the trunnions for the pivot point of the main gun. The turret roof has a simple two-part hatch fitted in a ring, adding two small parts, then dropping it into the hole in the roof, fixing two aerial bases and a rolled PE part into the roof, and two more hatches with clear slots in the cheeks of the turret front. This too is put to the side, while the engine deck is detailed with pioneer tools, a towing cable, PE mesh, and rear light clusters on small vertical panels at the rear, which are linked by a shallow armour panel. Two hull side panels have hatches with vision ports, handles and latches inserted, drilling a few holes in the upper hull part, then installing the vertical step made earlier, a T-shaped stiffener to the roof, and adding the side panels over the blank sides of the upper hull, then fitting filler caps, lugs and more hatches with clear slots, plus two stowage boxes to be fitted on the sloped sides of the engine deck, which is slotted into position and snugged up against the vertical step behind the turret ring. The turret can be twisted into position at this stage, but it is probably best to install the 75mm gun first. A semi-cylindrical mantlet is clipped vertically into the surround, gluing a plate across the back to prevent it popping out again, slotting the barrel into the hole in the mantlet, and adding a small part to the top of the surround, which includes a pivot peg that is locked in position in the starboard hull without glue, the top peg held in place by the two-part roof section, which has a periscope added to one side of the pivot. The completed upper hull is then glued into place on the lower, completing the model. Markings There are two decal options on the sheet, but as usual with Trumpeter/HobbyBoss/I Love Kit there is no information offered on the location, period or regiments of the decal options, but the vehicle codes should allow the intrepid modeller to find out the back-story if they feel the need. From the box you can build one of the following: The majority of the sheet is printed in red, with just a few that have two or more colours. Registration, colour density and sharpness are perfectly adequate for most modellers, but if you’re a stickler, you could do worse than check your references before proceeding to paint. Conclusion A well detailed exterior kit of the M3 Grant that should satisfy many, although there are cheaper options. The camouflaged option should be fun to paint, and might benefit from using the new acrylic paint markers that have recently come to market. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

M55 203mm Self-Propelled Howitzer (63548) 1:35 I Love Kit via Creative Models Ltd Based upon the chassis and some of the lower hull of a P47 Patton, but with the running gear and hull reversed, it travelled engine-deck first, with a huge turret that had limited traverse overhanging the rear that necessitated changes to the rear of the track run, and had a self-entrenching tool attached to the rear. It was developed from the earlier M53 that carried a 155mm gun, which it replaced in 1956 with the US Army, serving in Vietnam until the end of the 60s, when it was replaced in turn by the open-topped M110 howitzer after serving with it side-by-side for several years. The type also served in small numbers with a few NATO states, the last of whom kept it a little longer before it faded into history, scrapyards and museum storage. It was operated by a crew by six, consisting of a commander, driver and gunner, plus three more crew members to feed the gun with massive shells, of which it could carry just ten in internal storage, and as it was essential that it was required to continue firing for more than twenty minutes (1 round per 2 minutes), it would be accompanied by support vehicles that carried more rounds to feed the beast. The type was built by Pacific Car & Foundry, and was protected by 25mm/1” of armour, as although it wasn’t expected to be on the frontline, the nature of combat couldn’t always guarantee that it wouldn’t occasionally see limited action, even if it was only sporadic gunfire as a target of opportunity by the Vietcong, as the North Vietnamese army was sometimes known. Its top speed was a surprising 30mph, but that would reduce markedly on unmade roads or tracks, as 44 tonnes of metal and armour will stress any suspension system. The Kit This is a new boxing from another of Trumpeter’s brands, although it’s a strange name for a brand by any usual standards, even if it is descriptive of how we sometimes feel about our stashes. The kit shares many of the hallmarks of a Hobby Boss kit, which is another of their brands, and arrives in a top-opening box with a painting of the subject on the front. Inside the box are five sprues and two major parts in sand-coloured styrene, two identical sprues in brown styrene, a blast bag part on its own sprue for the gun in light grey flexible plastic, a tree of sixteen translucent poly-caps, a small clear sprue, two substantial frets of Photo-Etch (PE), a small decal sheet, instruction booklet in black and white, plus a glossy colour painting and decaling guide printed on both sides. This is an exterior kit, and the detail is good, extending to the link-and-length tracks, and the PE adds more fine detail to the kit, remembering that you’ll need to glue the PE parts in with Super Glue (CA). Construction begins with the road wheels, making eight pairs of one type, four more of another, and two of a third type, each made from hubs and separate tyres, with a poly-cap trapped between the two wheels for easy installation and removal. Six pairs of return-rollers are made up, then the hull is prepared with suspension details, four on each side, plus a more complex arrangement at the front, building one for each side from five parts. A pair of hatches with separate latches are fitted into holes in the rear bulkhead, mounting several small parts around them, including a towing hook and lugs for various eyes, breaking it down into two separate stages. The suspension arms and stub axles are inserted into each of the axle ports, fitting two suspension struts per side, adding the return-rollers to their sockets, and a single small wheel to the front suspension arm alongside a pair of road wheels, using up the rest of them in specific order on both sides of the hull. The front bulkhead has two small hatches and eyes installed, building up the drive sprockets from three parts, plus a two-part final drive housing that is glued to the sides of the hull. The tracks are link-and-length, using a long length on the lower run, plus three shorter sections for the upper run, adding a diagonal section under the drive sprocket, and creating the rounded ends from seven individual links at the front and ten at the rear, plus another two between the diagonal and lower run at the front. The upper hull is a large part with the turret base in a stepped down area at the rear, and this is detailed with louvred grates that have separate lifting lugs, stowage boxes with separate hatches and handles, two tapering assemblies with PE grilles on the open wider end, and many small parts around the deck and sides. Two more boxes are built with PE inserts glued into slots within, and their open rear ends house the front light clusters with clear lenses that are fitted on a PE support, adding a PE strip along the sides of the hull so that the PE side skirts can be fixed in place along with several PE fixings per side. More lifting handles are dotted around the deck, then it is mated to the lower hull, and the travel lock is built from five parts, some without glue, and mounted on slots in the front bulkhead. The turret is a large moulding, as is the floor, which has two supports that trap the mantlet between it and the upper when they are mated. A rack with several shelves is attached to the left of the turret before it is closed, covering the projecting edges of the floor at the sides with PE that has tread-plate texture etched into it, bending the edges over to hide the styrene underneath. A lower door is mounted in the cut-out in the rear, building the upper door with its locking mechanism from seven parts, adding vertical parts with PE sections to the sides, and festooning the turret sides with individual pioneer tools, and more on racks, along with several small parts, which have their shapes magnified in the instruction steps for a better view. A side hatch is added, and jerry cans are made for either side of the rear door, with a vent on the right side, creating the commander’s cupola from three parts reminiscent of a Patton’s cupola, making the gunner’s hatch from three parts, gluing it in place with another side door beneath it. More detail parts in styrene and PE are used, and two pairs of track links are fixed to the sides of the mantlet, sliding the two-part gun barrel through the flexible blast-bag after dealing with the seam, which will be eased by ensuring proper alignment of the two halves whilst gluing. The barrel assembly is slotted into a keyed hole in the mantlet, adding a small searchlight nearby, and completing the detailing of the turret with PE racks on the left side, grab handles and styrene protective cages around parts at the front of the roof. The self-entrenching blade has two pivots made and linked with a flimsy panel, which is probably best done after locating the pivots on the blade to ensure they are glued at the correct angles. The blade has several stiffening ribs moulded-in, with three more inserted in slots, joining the blade to the hull using two pegs that slide into the projecting trunnions at the back of the vehicle, passing through holes at the ends of the pivots. The turret then slots into position on the rear of the deck, but as there aren’t any bayonet lugs, it will be held in place by gravity and will fall out if you invert the model. The barrel is locked in position with a C-shaped clamp that glues it to the travel lock assembly at the front of the vehicle. Markings Two decal options are provided on the sheet, and the only clues to their use and location is given by the serials and the names painted on the barrel. From the box you can build one of the following: US Marines 233244 ‘Eve of Destruction’ US Army 40228648 ‘Tiny Tim’ The decals are printed with good density and sharpness, and only one has two colours, so register isn’t a problem. Conclusion The M55 is a bit of a monster, and quite appealing as such. It served in active combat zones, so can be built in a state of heavy use, and the detail should be enough for most modellers to make the most of. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

I Love Kit novelties 2024 - No aircraft 😥 Source: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1V5411q7hv/ V.P.

Hola comrades, my latest build is complete. I wanted to just build something quick over the winter but my perfectionism got the better of me again and this build went a little longer than I had intended. I Love Kits' well... kit may lack a little in interior detail (which is why I had to use an Eduard photo etch cockpit set) but it went together pretty well, and my new rigging method worked like a charm so take that doubters. If you want an in depth look at the build process you can check the vid out on youtube here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fahFT6YfnNA

The Gladiator's cockpit is fully assembled, just waiting for the fuselage halves to embrace.

For my next build, I felt like doing a quick and easy kit to warm me up for what will be an active next few months. So i've chosen I Love Kits' 1/48 scale Gloster Gladiator Mk. II. Aside from an eduard aftermarket photo etch set I got for it, the kit features few parts and should be finished in february.

I Love Kit programme-folder 2022. Nothing really new, just Merit & TrumpyBoss repops. Except the soon to release F-22 Raptor - link Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4695960073780686&set=gm.4760250234034481 V.P.