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  1. Kit - Hobbyboss 1:35 Paint - All Tamiya acrylics. Decals - Revell Extras - None. Just a hair over three weeks start-to-finish, a cheap and excellent cure for loss of 'modelling mojo' also know as AMS - Advanced Modellers Syndrome. Yes the details are soft, the wheels are at best 'round' and the one-piece tracks are a little toy-like, but it went together quickly with the minimum of fuss and I really wanted my own Leopard tank in the cabinet. Thouroughly enjoyed every minute of it, and in the end, is that not the point of this hobby ?? - As ever thanks for taking the time to look, all comments, questions and criticism welcome. Ian.
  2. Here's my latest completed build Its the Hobbyboss Hellcat F6F-5 built as a Fleet Air Arm Gannet Mk.II of 804 NAS aboard HMS Ameer in December 1944 The kit is straight OOB with decals from Xtradecal Enjoy ScottC
  3. Soviet BA-3 Armoured Car Hobbyboss 1:35 History The BA-3 was an improved model, following an 1932 army specification asking for a model equipped with the T-26 turret, and its high velocity 45 mm (1.77 in) 20K gun (60 rounds), allowing excellent antitank capabilities. The armament was completed by a coaxial DT machine-gun and another in the front compartment co-driver ball mount. The Izhorskij plant chose to radically improve the BA1 design, lengthening the rear part of the hull by 50 cm (1.64 ft) to cope with the extra top-weight of the new T-26 turret. The ring was also reinforced, as the entire rear compartment. The riveted armour was also thickened and the engine compartment received extra exhaust vents, as the GAZ engine proved prone to overheating. It was also remarkable that it was tested and equipped with spare chained tracks for its rear wheels, for a quick conversion into a half-track. Each track comprised 25 80x35 mm (3.14x1.38 in) soft steel links and weighted about 74 kg, stored on the rear mudguards. The conversion could be performed in just 10 minutes ensuring largely improved off-road capabilities and overall versatility in operations. Like the BAI, the hull and turret were partly welded. The front compartment was higher than the rear fighting compartment, giving this model a lower profile. Access to the fighting compartment was allowed by a rear door and two hatches served the driver compartment. The suspension was of the leaf spring system. The two rear axles held double wheels, so, in fact, no less than twelve tires were needed. The hull weight 5.82 tons, and the water-cooled GAZ A M-1 engine gave a power-to-weight ratio of 8 ton/hp with a net power of 40hp@2800rpm. Top speed was 56 km/h (34.8 mph) on road and range about 160 miles (240 km). Tests were performed in June 1934 at the NIIBT unit, Kubinka proving grounds. Cross-country speed proved less than 35 km/h (21.7 mph) and the engine also overheated badly, imposing better cooling and a reinforced front suspension, which were added on the next series. Production was part of the 1st Five Year Plan and was partly assumed by Vyksunskij (Gorki Works), the first series based on the US-based Ford-Timken truck chassis converted into a 6x4, and later production vehicles received a new Russian-built GAZ AAA chassis. When the production ended in 1935, 180 have been delivered to the Red Army. The Model Having released the BA-10 version of this armoured car series it was great to see Hobbyboss release this, the BA-3. The kit come in a top opening box with an artistic impression of the vehicle stopped on the battlefield firing its main gun. Inside there are eleven sprues of beige styrene, the single piece body, one small sprue of clear styrene, two sheets of etched brass, twelve rubber/vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. As usual for a Hobbyboss kit the parts moulding is really well done, with some nicely reproduced surface details, no sign of flash or other imperfections and not too many moulding pips making for an easy clean up job. Whilst not a large model by any stretch of imagination, there are quite a few parts, many of the small, so care with handling them will need to be exercised. Construction begins with the modification of the two chassis rails. Each of the rear ends need to be cut away, and whilst not measurements are given in the instructions the point is clearly marked on the rails themselves. With this done, three crossbeams are fitted between the rails, the rear one provided in three parts and forms part of the rear suspension. Each of the two differentials are assembled form two parts, onto which the two axles are attached. The two part universal joints are then added to each differential, followed by two suspension mounts fitted to each end of the axles. The leaf springs are then attached to the mounts, forming a solid unit with the axle/differentials, along with the anti-roll bars. The drive shaft connecting the two differentials is then slid into position. The completed assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with a three piece storage box and the steering rack gearbox. The kit comes with a very nicely detailed engine made up of a two piece block to which the sump is added, followed by the cylinder head, crankcase, air intake pipe and coolant pipe. The two part bell housing is attached to the clutch plate housing before being fitted to the engine. This is followed by the fitting of the exhaust manifold various bits of pipework such as the exhaust pipe, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan and the drive shaft. Rather unusually the accelerator pedal and clutch pedal are fitted to the top of the gearbox cover, complete with linkages and separate pedal pads. The completed engine/gearbox assembly is then fitted to the front of the chassis. The front wheel mount is made up of a three part triangular structure on to which the single cross-mounted leaf spring, along with its fittings is attached to the axle arm. Each of the two inner hubs are fitted with their ball joints and axle link before being fitted to the axle ends, followed by the steering rack between the two wheels. The front wheel assembly is then fitted to the chassis, along with two drop links, the three part silencer and exhaust end, and transfer box cover. Each of the ten wheels are made up of the outer hub and tyre, ensuring that the correct hub is used as there are three different styles depending on where they are fitted. With the wheels assembled they cna be fitted to the axles. The chassis and running gear are finished off with the fitting of the final drive shaft, and the rear suspension upper leaf springs. The body assembly begins with the fitting of the firewall bulkhead to the chassis which has oil and fuel filters attached, at the same time the large air filter unit is fitted to the engine. The main cab floor is attached to the chassis, ensuring the gearbox mounted pedals are carefully positioned through the gap in the floor. The handbrake leaver is then fitted, as are the gearstick and gear range selector. Each of the drivers and gunners seats are made up of the seat base, squab, backrest with associated supports, which when assembled can be glued into position. The instrument binnacle is glued to the lower coaming panel which is then fixed to the bulkhead. The steering column is carefully slid through the hole in the bulkhead and attached to the steering rack gearbox fitted earlier, and finished off with the steering wheel and indicator/light stalks. The upper coaming panel in then glued into positions, along with eh radiator and front mounted scoop like panel. With the above assembly put to one side, it’s on with the turret build. The turret is made up of left and right halves which, when joined together are fitted with the turret roof, rear panel, and front gun mounting panel. The outer mantlet is fitted with an moveable internal mount which is fixed to the mantlet via two trunnion mounts. The mantlet is then fitted to the turret, followed by the two top hatches, three eyebolts, periscope cover and ventilation mushroom. Before the single piece barrel can be fitted the barrel support bracket is attached to the mantlet along with a grab handle and two PE eyebolts. With the main gun and machine gun barrels fitted the turret is finished off with a small PE bracket which fits underneath the barrel support. Finally, we’re on the home straight, with the fitting of the drivers/gunners panel, complete with four part machine gun mount, to the front of the single piece armoured body. The body is then mounted to the floor/chassis and fitted with the rear armoured panel covering the drive train/suspension. This panel is then fitted with the PE number plate, whilst on the body itself the rear access door is attached, as is the PE rain channel above the left hand pistol port. On each side of the drivers compartment the armoured panels that protect the underside are attached. These are followed by the cooling louvers on each side of the engine compartment, two spare wheel mounts, two engine access panels and two armoured radiator doors. The large wheel arches that cover the rear sets of wheels are each fitted with PE strengthening strips on the inside before being mounted on the body. The drivers and machine gunners doors are then attached, along with the roof mounted hatch and front wheel arches. The vehicle is finished off with the fitting of the footstep supports, with PE steps, headlights, with clear lenses, taillights, radiator cap, front bumper, complete with separate number plate, grab rails around the rear of the body, three piece horn and last, but by no means least, the turret assembly. Decals The small decal sheet is sparse to say the least. What there are, are nicely printed and if previous experience has taught me, quite thin. The turret markings, for use on an overall green machine, include a unit badge and the dotted line that goes round the turret top. Care will be needed for this, not only to get it all level, but doing so without tearing it. The other two decals are for the drivers instruments. Conclusion There is something about these large armoured cars. They have an enigmatic air about them, as well as being slightly bonkers, as most of the interwar armoured cars seem to be. Having built an Eastern Express BA-20 armoured car, I can be pretty sure that this kit will be a dream to build in comparison. It will certainly make a nice addition to any collection, along with the previously release BA-10. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Chance Vought F4U-5N Corsair, Early version Hobbyboss 1:48 A 1945 design modification of the F4U-4, first flown on 21 December 1945, was intended to increase the F4U-4 Corsair's overall performance and incorporate many Corsair pilots' suggestions. It featured a more powerful Pratt and Whitney R-2800-32(E) engine with a two-stage supercharger, rated at a maximum of 2,850 hp (2,130 kW). Other improvements included automatic blower controls, cowl flaps, intercooler doors and oil cooler for the engine, spring tabs for the elevators and rudder, a completely modernized cockpit, a completely retractable tail wheel, and heated cannon bays and pitot head. The cowling was lowered two degrees to help with forward visibility, but perhaps most striking as the first variant to feature all-metal wings, a total of 223 were produced. The F4U-5N was a radar equipped variant with the radar housed in a pod mounted under the port wing, between the cannon bay and the wing tip. A total of 214 were produced and proved very successful in combating the low and slow night intruders used by the Communist forces in Korea, which the US jet powered night fighters found troublesome to intercept. Originally pitted against night flying Yak 9’s early in the war, they couldn’t cope against the Mig jet fighters. The Model Continuing their release schedule with the different variants of F4U Corsairs, Hobbyboss have now released the F4U-5N. The top opening box has a nice artistic impression of the aircraft in flight whilst inside there are nine sprues of medium grey styrene, two separately moulded parts, one sprue of clear styrene and a decal sheet. All the parts are very nicely moulded with fine panel lines and rivet detail throughout. There’s no sign of flash or other imperfections and only a few moulding pips, but what there are, are on some of the finer parts, so care will need to be taken when removing them and cleaning up. The one thing that jumps out on you is the wings. The 5N had all metal wings but, unfortunately Hobbyboss have included the original fabric covered outer wing panels used on their earlier marks. This is a great shame and shows the sort of laziness that has plagued the Hobbyboss brand, certainly with their aircraft kits. Fortunately the styrene looks thick enough for the modeller to sand the “ribs” down to make a nice flat surface. Of course some research will be required to add any panels that were fitted. Apart from the wing style problem this kit, as with most of their aircraft kits, should go together fairly easily. It’s not a complicated build, but there are areas that quite a bit of detail, particularly the engine, where the parts are quite fragile and fiddly. Naturally as with most aircraft builds, construction begins with the cockpit, and the fitting of the two side consoles and two piece seat to the floor. The rudder pedals are glued to the back of the instrument panel, for which a decal is provided, even though the IP has dimples where the instruments are mounted, a good panel to use those Airscale instruments and bezels you’ve promised to use one day. The panel is then fitted to the top of the console ends, whilst the front bulkhead, with separate compass attached is glued to the front of the floor and the rear bulkhead with separate headrest attached is glued to the rear. The joystick and control wires are glued to an under floor section, which is glued into position with the joystick passing through the hole in the cockpit floor. The engine is a model on its own, with the two cylinder banks moulded as single items which are then joined together and fitted with the single piece inlet manifold complete with the myriad of pipes. The exhausts are next and care should be taken to get the right parts in the right place as it’s crucial to get them exhausting out of the right places. The two piece crank case is fitted with the two magnetos and with the propshaft pushed through it from behind, glued to the front of the engine along with the pushrod ring. The accessory gear box is made up form three parts and glued to the rear of the engine. The wings are designed such that the modeller has a choice of whether to pose them folded or spread. The choice is pretty much made with the assembly of the wing centre section which includes the lower fuselage and gull wing sections. The two radiator baths are glued to the single piece bottom wing section along with the folding point ribs, before the two upper wing sections are attached. The leading radiator intakes are then fitted with their grilles before being glued onto the wing. The fold points are detailed with three piece fold mechanisms and two piece spars. When posing the wings extended you won’t need to add the mechanisms and you use the straight spar part instead to the bent part. Unfortunately the flaps, although separate have been moulded in such a way that they cannot be posed drooped, although I’m sure with a bit of modelling it can be done should you wish. The seven piece tailwheel/hook assembly is now built up and along with the tail hook has the option of being built extended or lowered, do ensure that the correct parts are used for the option you wish to build. The tailwheel, cockpit, and engine assemblies are now fitted to one half of the fuselage, along with the cockpit sidewalls and tailwheel bay structure, which is made up from five parts. The fuselage is then closed up and the centre wing assembly glued into position, as is the engine cowl flap section and cowling. Just behind the cockpit, on either side, two panels are attached, whilst in the cockpit the two part gun sight is fitted. The horizontal tailplanes are each single piece parts, to which the elevators and control rods are fitted. The elevators and rudder appear to have the same problem as the outer wing panels, in that they are shown to have a fabric covering. As with the wings, the 5N also had metal control surfaces with the possible exception of the elevator trim tabs, which from historical photographs look like they still had a fabric covering. Bearing that in mind, and the extra work involved in correcting the problem, it’s probably best to do so before fitting to the fuselage. Once the outer wings have been rectified you will need to open up the flashed over holes for the cartridge ejectors and rocket stubs, although I’m not sure if these were always fitted to the 5N, just the standard 5’s. Another oddity is the fact that Hobbyboss have provided all the cannon bay access doors as separate items, and yet haven’t provided detailed cannon bays. So you might want to glue all the doors into position before adding the lower halve of the wing to ensure getting a flush fit. With the wing halves joined together the fold joint rib is fitted, along with the cannon muzzles and separate ailerons and outer flaps. The outer wings can now be fitted to the inner wings and in whatever position you have chosen. The windscreen, canopy and fin/rudder are also fitted at this point in the instructions. The main undercarriage assemblies are now built up. Each assembly consists of the main oleo, scissor link, retraction actuator legs front mounted door and two piece wheels. The completed undercarriage assemblies are then fitted into their respective bays along with the main and tailwheel bay doors. The two piece radar pod, single piece four bladed propeller, propeller hub, three aerial masts and two exhaust deflector strips are attached. Finally the two, two piece drop tanks are assembled, fitted with what looks like a vent tube, and glued into position via their pylons. The rocket stubs, if fitted are also attached, finishing the build. Decals There is just a single aircraft option provided on the decal sheet , that of F4U-5N of VC-2, Korea 1953. Although well printed, in register and with good opacity, there’s something not quite right with them. I’ve searched the interweb for corroborating pictures and there seems to be some confusion out there as well. Some photos show the aircraft with white codes whilst others show the aircraft as having green codes, and Stars and Bars, even the box art seems to show everything in white. I can see why they would have been green since they were painted on a night fighter so maybe Hobbyboss have them right. They certainly look slightly odd, particularly due not being used to seeing them that colour. Conclusion Well, what can I say here that I haven’t already said in the review? It’s a great looking model, which will probably be a nice quick and fairly pain free build, but only if you ignore the fabric effect on the outer wings, rudder and elevators. If you can’t ignore that stuff, then it’s time for the sanding sticks, maybe some filler and a scribing tool, to get to something that resembles like the real thing. It’s entirely up to you. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Hi, I am slowly starting this new HobbyBoss A-6E Intruder. It will be finished in VA-36 livery as it was during Desert Storm operations. I will try to build OOB as much as possible. I was told there will be some new resin goodies for this model but Aires still did not finished the cockpit set for A-6A I am not going to wait for A-6E one. I've bought a pair of Quickboost GRU-7 seats to enhance the cockpit. Thea seats looks way better than the kit original but they are not intended for this particular model. So I had to modify them a little. Quickboost seat is a bit wider and also the seat anget is a bit different than the cockpit tube. So I had to sand off a bit of details on seat sides and corrected the backrest angle. Seat modification Also I will try to use some Eduard photoetch details originally intended for Kinetic kits. I will see how much will be usable. Again I am not going to wait till the dedicated sets will be available for this A-6E boxing. Hope to have more soon. A.
  6. And now for something completely different - Rafale C in 1/72. HobbyBoss kit with use of Eduard ZOOM PE set. Squadron marking on the right side of fin has been changed for accurate one (self-made). Corrected numbers in the front of the fusselage ("7" should be "empty" inside). Elevators position has been slightly changed (incorrect in kit). Aircraft serial 104, no. 7-HH, Escadron de Chase 1/7 "Provence", 2010.
  7. Hello everyone: group photos of my recently finished Egyptian MiG-17F and MiG-17PF Frescos: the MiG-17PF in natural metal is from around the 1967 war with Israel. Hobbyboss plastic (very good, hardly any problems) still in UARAF (United Arab Republic Air Force) markings, decals are sourced from various sources, the 31st squadron "bat crow" unit insignia was printed at home with the artwork provided by Tom Cooper, thanks!!, see in progress build KK-2 ejection seat is from Aires (a bit small!), 23mm cannons and pitots are from Master and very recommendable! the MiG-17F is from the closing stages of the war of attrition/ beginning of the Yom Kippur war, in cmouflage colors, but an example apinted before the Nile valley camo scheme was introduces fleetwide. the flag shows the Hawk of Quraish which was used from late 1972 up until the 80ies when it was slowly replaced by the current Eagle of Saladin. Decas are Hi-Decals, which at the moment seem to be the only ones who provide the correct flag for this time frame. the decals were reshaped though. Arab numbers come from the Iraqi airfoces decals sheet from Lindenhill decals. cannons and pitots are from Master, the KK-2 ejection seat is from Neomega resin (very recommendable!) the MiG-17F is armed with one 37mm and 2 23mm cannons in the nose, as well as 8 Sakr rockets and 2 250kg bombs on fuselage pylons only to be found on Egyptian MiG-17s! in progress and lots of additional information from Tom Cooper, many many thanks!!!!, without your help this build would not be half as accurate!!!!!, and all the others that contributed can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234974798-mig-17f-and-pf-fresco-june-1967-and-war-of-attrition-1967-1973-double-build-148/ so here some impressions: now fully armed: more photos of the individual planes will follow soon if you want thanks for looking, reading and your comments! regards, Werner
  8. So, having checked this is ok, this is my first group build. As such I've picked what (hopefully) is an easy build to start with and will ensure I don't lose my mojo halfway through. Allow me to present M. Gauthier's MS406, you can't miss it, it's the small barrel shaped one. As can be seen this will be done with RAF insignia to represent one of the four aircraft that was used by the Free French Flight No2 over Haifa. Three were sent before the Armistace and one defected from Vichy Syria afterwards. They became part of Première Escadrille de Chasse and finally Groupe de Chasse Alsace in time. The squadron also included the MS406's contemporary/replacement in the form of the Dewotine D520, something I also have in the stash but have no decals for as yet. Any ideas where I could find some? Unfortunatly I'm struggling to find any photo's of the aircraft in question so I'm kind of restricted to what Hobbyboss and other modellers have done before me. That said, I have found this illustration that appeared in SAM magazine and hopefully will use this as a good reference point.
  9. This had been sat on the shelf of doom for around 18 months, giving me that " I'd look really nice finished" kind of stare you all know the one I'm sure. The F-14 doesn't really hold much interest for me so I'd generally been putting it off but I decided to get it finished so i can avoid its sorry unfinished glare. SO here it is Hobbyboss 1/48 Tomcat D finished in grim reapers Hi-viz markings. Once again Trumpyboss are a let down on the amount/quality of stencils and other decals but overall i feel there is enough to give the scheme some feel. It was painted with Ak interactive light gull gray and tamiya gloss black, all flatted down with vallejo acrylic matt. As always thanks for looking, any comments/ constructive criticism welcomed.
  10. Hello everyone. This is my new project - HobbyBoss Bearcat. In general, this is pretty decent kit, especially if compared with other options in Testors or Hobbycraft kits. Kit has crisp engraved panel lines and rivets here and there. Overall details are more than You will expect, although engine is little rudimental. I've put some details on it and it looks just fine. For cockpit I've used Eduard zoom set for Hobbycraft. It needs some surgery to fit properly, but that is not a big issue. There are few problems. The engine cowling has some minor shape issues. This curve at the front needs to be a lot smoother, so some sanding is required. It won't be 100%, but it will looks nicer and much closer to the real thing. Next problem are wheels. They are to simple. So I've changed them with True details set. The problem is a bigger diameter so sanding is required (again) on wheel struts and/or wheels. The last issue and the biggest problem are wings. There are more than few problems with them + bad fit with fuselage. Intakes are too close to the fuselage, and wings looks maybe too short. I will have to live with this. I've inserted piece of styrene plate between fuselage and wings... that way You can have extra 1/2mm or so... it is something at least. The fit was bad anyway... And there we are: First step... A color... few shades darker than what I want at the end. Next... few color shades and weathering made with AK interactive washes/pigments. I've spent 2 weeks making weathering... And It's not finished yet. I'm pretty satisfied with current situation. Upper side is at 90%... Underside still needs some work... Decals are good... very thin and nice, but some are just a little out of register... Wheel bay with some scratch build details New update soon...
  11. SS-23 Spider OTR-23 Oka HobbyBoss 1/35 Managed to finish the big Spider today (still trying to find space for it in the display cabinet). Built pretty much OOB with a few subtle enhancements here and there. It's a nice kit although Hobbyboss have simplified a few details and the interior is far from accurate but you can't see that much of it with the missile in place. Lots and lots of fiddly PE which made the purchase of a hold & fold essential. Finished in Slovak colours which makes a nice change from Russian green. The WIP is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234977804-ss-23-spider-hobby-boss-135/ Hope you enjoy the shots Thanks for looking Andy
  12. Messerschmitt Me 262B-1a 1:48 HobbyBoss The Messerschmitt 262 was a potential saviour of the beleaguered German cities that suffered nightly bombardments by Allied bombers toward the end of WWII, but due to delays caused in part by Hitler's insistence that it be both a fighter and a bomber, it was delayed in reaching production, and only reached operational units in mid-1944. It was an advanced design using Junkers Jumo axial flow jet engines that were more efficient than the British centrifugal turbojet, but was held back by the lack of advanced high-temperature metallurgy and lack of strategic metals, which resulted in very short service intervals that required some significant rebuilding of the engine after 50 hours or less. The airframes were divided into A designations for single seat interceptors, while the B type were two-seat trainers and night fighters (Nachtjäger). The B-1a was the first variant, although some were later converted to Nachtjägers with Neptun radars and the operator in the rear seat. The C type mainly covered paper projects, as the war ended before further refinements to the design could be built. The Kit HobbyBoss have so far released a fairly wide range of A models, and this is their first foray into the two-seat Bs, which with their night fighter brethren were the only two-seat variants to actually see service. They are simple to build, well-detailed kits that leapfrog over the Dragon kits that came around the turn of the millennium, as well as being very affordable for building your own collection of the different versions. Arriving in a top opening box, it has a rather workman-like painting on the front that belies the quality of the contents, and probably won't do much for sales. Inside the box are a surprisingly large number of sprues, with four large and another five smaller ones in grey styrene, two clear sprues and a white metal nose weight that sits around the nose gear bay, decals and of course the instruction booklet, inside of which is a single sheet of double-sided glossy paper that contains the painting and decaling instructions. HobbyBoss have cleverly tooled their Schwalbe range in a modular fashion, which has allowed them to draw maximum value from the moulds through economy of scale. The kit is well detailed for its price-point, and should build up into a good replica of the once dreaded 262. Construction begins with the cockpit tub, which takes the form of two halves of a tube that are split horizontally to allow better access to add the details of the instrument panels, rudder pedals two seats and the instrument panels in, before the top is added to form the sidewalls, with a long slot in the top for the cockpit sills. The end bulkheads hold the cockpit in the correct place within the fuselage, and additional parts are added under the cockpit tub to begin forming the main landing gear bay. The nose gear bay has its walls formed from the white metal part, onto which the cannon bay is added, with four Mk108 30mm with detailed breeches and ammunition feeds included within. There is a styrene alternative to the metal part if you don't want to use it, as the metal part is a little more roughly cast than one would perhaps like, with detail lacking in the bay roof. The forward bulkhead and the rear of the cannon bay again hold this assembly in place in the fuselage, and the nose wheel with its single long gear leg and captive forward door fitting into a slot in the roof of the bay. A choice of wheel types with either fine tread or coarse radial tread, in case your chosen airframe was fitted with one or other. The cockpit and nose bay are fitted within the fuselage halves, and a radio bulkhead is added behind the cockpit, along with various other detail parts, that you're probably wondering what their purpose is. There's a little radio hatch in the starboard side of the fuselage that will enable the intrepid viewer to look within. With all of these parts glued in place and painted (if you're leaving the door open), the fuselage can be closed up, and you can begin construction of the engines. These are rather simple but effective, consisting of two halves of the cowlings with ribbing detail inside, split vertically. The ribs will never be seen, sadly, as the nacelle is capped off at the ends with a two part intake with short trunk and separate engine face, and at the rear an exhaust trunk/bullet and exhaust cowling. The profile and thickness of these parts are well done, having a much better shape than the old Dragon kits, which were too blunt and thick, especially at the intake lip. The closed up fuselage is still open at the front by this point, and the cowling for this area are a separate part with four cannon fairings cut into them, allowing the barrels to project through. A separate nose cone and two gull-wing panels for the gun bays are also added, with a prop for each of the bay panels to hold them at the correct angle to display the nicely moulded gun bays. The instructor's panel is augmented with additional gear above the original instrument panel, and the area behind his seat is closed in with an angled insert, after which more detail is added to the main gear bays before the lower wing is installed across the fuselage, closing the hole in the belly. If you plan on carry stores on the 262's wings, four holes in the underside will need opening up before adding the upper wings, which reach from tip to root, and have fairings at the front to blend into the engine nacelles. The nacelles should then clip right into the wings with little in the way of fettling, but as always, check before applying glue. It's a shame that HobbyBoss didn't pick up on the passive leading edge slats that are generally dropped as the aircraft slows down, as they are pressure activated. There are several How-Tos on the internet to help you with this area if you are interested. The elevators are single parts that fit into slots in the side of the tail, with their tabs interlinking to improve the strength of the joint and hold them at the correct angle. The elevators themselves are moulded into the fins, but the rudder is a separate part that can be posed deflected at your whim. Two more inserts fit under the fuselage, and these have the slots for the spent shell casings, and flashed over holes for the nose-mounted fuel tanks that come with the kit. If you plan on fitting them, open up the holes before gluing them in place, and then fit the two-part tanks and their short pylons in place. The main landing gear has only one choice of tyre, which has a diamond tread and a radial pattern on the sidewalls. They are split vertically, so some clean-up would be wise, unless you plan on using some of Eduard's wheels that we reviewed here, which although designed for the older Tamiya kits can be made to fit quite easily. The gear legs are sturdy and have separate oleo-scissors, as well as a two-part captive bay cover attached via small lugs and slots on the inner face of the doors. The inner door covers are single parts with moulded-in retraction jacks, while the nose gear bay door has a separate cranked retraction jack that holds the single door open to the correct angle. As well as the aforementioned fuel tanks, there are a pair of rocket packs for under the wings, which comprise a rail part (made of wood on the real aircraft) that sits flush with the underside of the wing, and the rockets, which although moulded en masse have sufficient fin and body detail to look quite effective under a coat of paint. Markings Two schemes are available out of the box, with the decals printed anonymously, probably in-house. They are to a good standard, but have the occasional blemish under magnification, particularly at the edges of the Swastikas, which are printed as two separate halves to avoid issues in some territories. From the box you can build one of the following: W.Nr.170075 I./KG(J)54, B3+SH Germany 1945 – Light grey/RLM73 splinter on the wings and upper fuselage, with heavy mottling on the sides and tail, over RLM76. A large white lightning bolt is painted on the nose. W.Nr.170014 III./EJG 2, Germany 1945 – RLM82/83 Splinter on tops of fuselage with heavy mottling on the sides and tail over RLM76. Yellow theatre band on fuselage, and White 1 on the nose. Conclusion I rather like the growing HobbyBoss range of 262s, and this one is no exception. They pack plenty of detail into the aircraft that will satisfy most modellers out of the box, without complicating the build too much. Of course the likes of Eduard can oblige if you'd like to take the detail up a notch, but that's up to you. The radar equipped U1 variant is already on the way, and Creative have it up on their site here in case you wanted to pre-order it. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Morning folks,this is my first build for the French fancy GB. Hobbyboss Choktaw or HSS1 in french naval service,A simple quick build nice enough on detail with only the decals cause for concern,if you have not checked out the GB do have a look or better still get something entered something for all in there,thanks for looking WIP here. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978420-hobbyboss-hss-1-french-navy/
  14. These arrived this morning and i just went a bit crazy. Working on my stash of 1/700 world war 2 subs now. Alex
  15. Here,s my first entry for this GB folks,the Sud-Aviation assembled CH34.Over two hundred were built for the French armed forces the navy retiring their last one in 1979.The Hobbyboss kit looks great in the box and should build up well if past experience is anything to go by.Box top illustration and decals to start with and some sprue shots when the build begins,the colour scheme is dark blue overall with a large yellow area on the top of the fuselage.
  16. Hello, As well as the F-8P Crusader seen elsewhere, I'd like to build another Marine Nationale subject, the Dassualt Rafale M in 1/72 by Hobbyboss. The kit appears very nice on the sprues and certainly seems to be a big improvement in terms of details over the Italeri Rafale. I recall reading somewhere that the kit is underscale; comparison with the Italeri offering suggests that this is the case, at least in terms of wingspan and wing area - the Hobbyboss kit is narrower by a full wingtip pylon each side, and has more sharply raked leading and trailing edge. Nevertheless, the outline still appears to be okay and I think I'll just press on regardless. I haven't decided yet which exact machine I'll depict, but I will definitely be using a fairly recent release by Syhart decals, 72-915, whose markings are comprehensive (to say the least) and up-to-date. I'll use their recommended colour by Tamiya, XF-54, for the overall grey scheme (or at least play with the colour until it looks right). Sprue pics: No progress just yet, but I'm willing to sacrifice time at work if that helps with matters. cheers, Andrew.
  17. Hi everyone ! My latest project ! It took me 4 days to complete it . I only added the rivets . Painted freehand with gunze acrylics . Hope you like it . P3010224 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010220 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010218 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010219 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010223 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010224 by nionios_v, on Flickr P3010226 by nionios_v, on Flickr
  18. Last model completion before the end of the summer holiday and heading back to work tomorrow morning. This was intended as a quick build back in October last year, but it got stalled 3/4 completed. There are three options in the Hobbyboss Los Angeles class kit, but I was really drawn to the USS Chicago with its bulls head. Nearly regretted it at the end - it wasn't the easiest decal to get in place. I am still not sure I managed to get it correct - but I didn't want to risk it so once it was sort of straight I left it. Thanks for looking.
  19. Have an unexpected and unwanted two weeks off work, morale not good, really needed something to cheer me up so decided to get started on a large and 'complex' kit. After a lot of deliberation decided to go for this:- I am a big fan of Robert 'Strang' McNamara's F-111 'Vark in 1/48th scale, stash wise I have the old Monogram F-111A, the Academy FB-111A, F-111C and EF-111A, also the Hobbyboss F-111A and the EF-111A. Six 'Varks in 1/48th scale! So long overdue for putting one together and I decided to go for the Hobbyboss F-111A. It has no less than 17 sprues plus two major fuselage body parts, also a large decal sheet plus one for the weapons loadout. I have read a lot of criticism here and elsewhere about Hobbyboss kits however I was very happy to purchase this kit from the excellent MJW Models at a reduced price of around £30 including P&P. So, getting started:- This is a very 'modular' kit with several large sub-assemblies, more than I am used to, so a lot to put together before the painting stages, much use of Halfords white and grey primer paints. Here you can see that the two undercarriage wells have been completed, the bomb bay, and the parts for the complex wings; these have to be assembled and painted before adding to the rest of the model. At this stage have two painting choices - a Vietnam era bird in SE Asia camouflage and the fifth F-111A produced which wore the USN gull grey/white colour scheme. At this stage I am leaning towards the grey/white scheme. There is also some detail which, sadly, cannot be seen in the completed model:- The cockpit does need to be almost fully completed before assembly and I have concentrated on this:- Have to be honest, I am not a detail person, all for minimum effort and best effect Overall grey Halfords Grey Primer, Revell Aqua Colour black and olive drab; red, silver and emerald green from old Airfix acrylic pots. Happy with how it has turned out though... Another view:- So a lot of work to do, definitely not going to be finished end next Friday however I do have the enthusiasm for this kit so maybe, just once, I might finish what I started! In terms of the 'best medicine' this has worked for me so far. Michael
  20. Kit manufacturer: Hobbyboss Scale: 1/48 Type: P40m Warhawk Extras used: Quickboost wheels, decals Paints used: Tamiya and Vallejo Recently finished this one just after xmas. Very basic kit, gear doors are even moulded to the wing! Certainly one to do to get your mojo back! disapointed you cant have the canopy open (unless you cut it) This resulted in some of the wash going behind the rear side glass behind the cockpit, which was challenging to remove to say the least! Happy with how it come out. Will certainly be building a more detailed version, anyone know what is the best one in 48th?
  21. Encouraged by the kind words for my first WIP, I'm back for more: I grabbed this off the top of the stash, After opening the box and laughing hysterically for 10 minutes at the million microscopic parts I put it back and got this instead: Much better. There isn’t much to the main airframe but the UC is very impressive and far from it’s easy build roots. Look at the detail on the hubs and UC legs : Just going to add some detail to the front UC bay as it’s a wee bit bare, some nice clear tip lights as well. Decided to make it an Eismeer whiffer as they seemed fond of odd camos when in Nordic climes. I borrowed the scheme from my AZ Gotha P60 and photoshopped a guide: Paint will be the supposedly horrible new Humbrol RLM enamels as I’m feeling lucky, well am I punk? OK, I got these cheap at LSA's closing down sale and thought hey why not? There is an RLM 76 somewhere but I have a couple carrier bags of etch and resin to sort, that its nestling down in , cowering from what I intend to do to it with Rustins driers and car shop cellulose thinners. Oops forget to add this before posting: The informed will know that HB have mangled the propblades so they defy any known aeronautical laws: After careful consideration I decided that this is just a little plastic model and it isn’t going on any combat missions. It’ll be fine unless it meets a rivet counter but thankfully, I fall asleep after the third word when they start pontificating about Shturm und Drang propellor logos and the length of handle for late model 109g flush toilet cisterns. I have also acquired these little vinyl masks to ease the pain of the panes in the canopy. Never heard of Pmask but they look identical to Montex masks. More will follow unless the Xmas cheer and soda renders me incoherent. Cheers Anil
  22. Hi Guys. I'd like to present you my latest build - the F8F1 Bearcat from Hobbyboss. The aircraft depicted is the famous Blue Angels Beetle Bomb. I choose this marking because it is unusual (full yellow airframe) and because this specific aircraft was - as far as I know - the last piston engine aicraft used by Blue Angels in airshows, even after they converted to jets, until the aircraft was sadly lost during a training flight in 1950. Now I know that this kit was received with some criticism. After the experience of building it, I think that this criticism is well deserved - not necesarly from the accuracy point of view (there are some accuracy/shape issues, but still it looks like a Bearcat to me), but especially for the lack of research on behalf of the producer. I find it really hard to understand how a producer like Hobbiboss managed to mass produce a kit with totally wrong decals and instructions for applying them. The F8F1 box is containing decals for 2 airframes - one USN glossy blue (I don't know if tis any problem with this one) and one for Beetle Bomb. The problem is that I discovered (on the hard way I mean) that if one uses the box decals for Beetle Bomb and follows the Hobbyboss intructions for applying those decals, then will obtain a model that have almost nothing in common with the real aircraft - except for the overall yellow coloured airframe. The hobbyboss decals (and instructions) are completely wrong from every point of view - colour, dimensions, placement, etc. So beware of this issue if any of you guys is planning to buid this specific airframe. Otherwise, the kit is well engineered and easy to assemble. Some rescribing was neccessary, because some panel lines are wrongly positioned or missing. The only aftermarket addition to this kit was the PE seat belts (Eduard). And new decals from Draw Decal/USA, of course (very accurate decals, good instructions). Also, the model was heavely modified in the engine and engine bay area - which is highly visible when the aircraft is on the ground and which was almost completely bare if left OOB. So a lot of scratch building and piping work was done to this area - but sadly this is not so visible now that the model is ready. However...I know it's there... So here it is. Hope you like it guys. Any comments/sugestions are welcomed. All the best,
  23. Hi folks,been quietly doing the Hobbyboss A10 "easy" kit for a couple of weeks while waiting for parts to dry on other projects. I am not really a "modern" aircraft builder and the last A10 I built was Matchbox,s kit when it was brand new.I have no idea how accurate this kit is but fit of parts was superb(only eight parts make the complete airframe) and the panel lines were some of the best I have come across from any maker.many thanks for looking.
  24. Hi all heres my completed Kilo 877 build, nice kit no issues in assembly. Peoples Liberation Army Navy scheme. All the best Chris
  25. Whilst it was great that we, (in the UK), have had a great summer, it really slows down the modelling progress! I started this one in April and finished last weekend. Even by my sedentary pace that's slow! Anyhow, about the model. Here we have the Hobbyboss A10a Thunderbolt. I chose to present it in the experimental 'Peanut' scheme. I was not convinced by the painting guide in the instructions, with few pictures of this scheme online I had to go with my instinct. It may not be a perfect colour match but I am pleased with the result. No major vices with build. The cockpit and wheel wells were lacking in detail. I used an Aires detail set for the cockpit and scratch built some detail in the wells. I've kept the weathering light, only using Flory 'dark dirt' wash. I apologise for the photo quality, the light was beginning to fade! I hope, you enjoy.... Thanks for looking...
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