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  1. Hobby Boss Sea Hawk straight from the box except for painted Suez stripes as the kit decals didn't fit. Thanks for looking. Steve
  2. Hi Guys, as my mistel project is going good I will start the next project. It will be the 1/48 hobby Boss Me-262 B-1a trainer, that I will convert to the nightfighter. In the kit are all the parts for this, so it should be no problem. I also have some extra's for it. These are some Aeromaster decals and the antenna's from Master. Here are some pictures. the box and content. and the master antenna's And the decals. As I have got two different sets, I will choose between them. The choice will be between red 8 or 10. Both were armed with the 4xMK103 nose armament. The camo on the red 8 isn't correct on the Aeromaster sheet, But I will do some research. In my opinion the camo was just RLM75 over RLM76. Maybee the mottle was a little bit harder than on the other airplanes. I will start this when the Mistel is in the painting stage. Cheers,
  3. Source: http://old1.hobbyboss.com/a/en/product/fly/...2/0302/822.html V.P.
  4. With only three days of this trip to go before heading home on Friday this one is done. I was going to wait till I got home to take the photos but decided it was probably best to take them now just in case the worst happens and it is damaged on the journey home. As usual with my projects there are several things I would do differently if I built it again. The principal one being to considerably lighten the tan and green camo colours. Still, a good lesson to carry on to future projects.
  5. A fighter aircraft that brings me into scale modeling world!
  6. Now my old F-4 is done and dusted I'm going to be concentrating on this, which despite Hobby Boss' claim is an E. I'll be painting this scheme, which should explain the practice run on the Phantom. 🤣 Cockpit.
  7. In a recent build of the ill-fitting Dragon/DML DO335 Arrow ( https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235034172-luft-46-dornier-do-335-b-8-high-altitude-nightfighter/ ), I totally botched the kit's multi-piece canopy and had to steal a replacement from a Hobby Boss kit in my stash. The Dragon/DML canopy and its Hobby Boss replacement: That left me with a nearly-complete Hobby Boss kit. Not wanting it to go to waste, I decided something had to be done. So here we are with my DO335 Reno Air Racer project! First, I clipped the wings and added a wingtip fence: I also squared off the horizontal and vertical stabs: I extended the height of the vertical stab with plasticard, sanded into shape: The Pfeil is a natural tail-sitter, and plenty of weight is needed to keep its nose on the ground. This is especially true of the Hobby Boss kit. I don't really know how much weight I added, but it's a bunch! A quick test fit shows the modified Arrow's racy lines (haha): Moving on to other details, I thinned down nose cowling's flaps which otherwise were a scale six-inches thick! I also de-fanged this warbird by grinding away the nose cannon. Otherwise it would make for some interesting racing! The kit's nose gear also needed attention. I cut away the molded-in wheel and mud guard, opened up the nose gear fork, and found a replacement wheel in my stash (formerly a F-4 Phantom main gear wheel) I enhanced Hobby Boss's bare-bones cockpit with a new seat, consoles built up from plastic stock, a new instrument panel, and an intrepid pilot from the spares box: With that done, it was time to attack the reason for this project -- the missing canopy. First, I made a resin mold from another DO335 canopy in my stash (yes, I have way too many of these kits): The 335's copious canopy framing isn't appropriate for a racing plane, so I gave everything a generous layer of putty: and after very much work, had a reasonably smooth mold with which I vacuformed a new canopy. Here's the result of my effort: That's as far as I've gotten so far. Not bad for a few evenings' work! Next up: Putting all the pieces together.
  8. On a trip last year to Fleet Air Arm, I had my first encounter with a Corsair, and quite an impressive encounter it is (the aircraft and all its history are very thought provoking). So having received this little kit for Christmas, I decided it was time to start building. That last sentence is slightly exaggerated as the kit is already assembled, well the fuselage and cockpit are any way. The box contains 2 small sprues, plus the engine and cowling, prop, prebuilt fuselage and wings. There is a small decal sheet and instruction booklet. The cockpit has very little detailing, and panel lines are minimal, but I'm looking forward to the challenge.
  9. The KG(J)54 262 not yet finished, my dad already started the next KG(J) bird. Using this Hobby Boss kit DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr and doing "black 1" with Eagle Cals DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  10. I've finished another model kit for my slowly growing what-if tank collection. This time the Hungarian 44M Tas heavy tank. The original Tas only got as far as the prototype stage when it was destroyed in an air-raid, along with most of the documentation & tools at the factory, which put an end to its development. This kit is from Hobby Boss & is rather cheap & simple, so it only took a few days to put together. I then spent a month slowing experimenting with adding extra parts though. Most of which were made from inexpensive household items such as the camouflage net around the barrel is a stretched out bandage. The rolled up tarpaulin on the back of the turret & flag are made from tissues. The logs are random twigs from the garden. Bits of old wire for the handles & cables etc. Other extra bits are the fuel drum on the rear which comes from a Tamiya set. I added a fume extractor to the turret roof which was a left over part from my previous E-100 model. The side armour was extended at the rear with plastic card to make attachment holes for tow ropes. The cardboard box on the engine deck is from a set by J-Works. I also tried out printing my own custom decal transfers for the first time with the registration number plates on the front & rear. I think they turned rather well, I look forward making more in the future. I had a lot of fun adding all the extra parts to this kit. So much so that I might make another one in the future...
  11. Happy Easter All - Here's the Hobby Boss Achzarit APC (Early). Pretty good kit overall with good PE which was easier to work with than many I've come across. I used the new AK Real Colours paint which I was very pleased with. When the Achzarit first came into service the IDF was just moving over to the grey Sinai Grey from the sand Sinai Grey if you see what I mean. Last photo with it's ugly sister. Usual comments and criticisms welcome - the left had track does need a re-tension but it was too late when I noticed Cheers David
  12. Much happier with my seam filling which I felt was a weak area on my previous builds. The next area which requires attention is canopy work, having said that these weren't the easiest of canopies to work with but something I'll be making more effort to get right in future.
  13. I'm almost half way through my month's leave and would like to do another aircraft build so I have chose this "Easy Assembly" kit from Hobby Boss. I've been doing quite a bit of reading over the past few weeks about the role North Yorkshire played in the air war during WWII. Needless to say Airfix's Whitley (RAF Leeming, just a couple of miles away.) and Revell's Halifax Mk. III (RAF Skipton on Swale, 10 miles or so.) quickly joined the stash. As soon as I discovered this particular aircraft, Jukin' Judy, was based for a short period at RAF Scorton, near Catterick with the US 422nd Night Fighter Squadron it just shouted BUY ME! I should be back with an actual build update later today, can't wait to get started.
  14. I'm calling this one done. I had major trauma with the decals and the paint underneath is waaaaay too thick but I enjoyed it and learnt a few lessons. Anyway here it is.
  15. #3/2016 So, something at least a bit different Initially my dad wanted to build a RN Mk.I with the Hobby Boss kit. After examining the kit we found out that the intended version wasn´t possible oob, no bubble side windows, no observer seat behind the pilot, no cowl gun. So, change of plan, used decals from the Italeri reboxing of the AM kit for the Hobby Boss one. Besides the decals almost completely oob. Added seatbelts, cut off the wrong wing gun stubs and drilled holes, EZ Line for the aerials, engraved the missing rivets for the the oil cooler shutters on the side cowls. Painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. The decals for the nose numbers came from the sparebox because the Italeri ones were way too big. As it seems there´s only one partial pic of this aircraft. There it looks completely white. Fellow Hyperscale modeller Modeldad provided some info that all-white avengers weren´t completely uncommon in the Atlantic ASW role. So the model became only white, never seen that before on a pic or model The model shows an a/c of the composite squadron VC-58 on the escort carrier USS Block Island in January 1944. Later in March/April the unit transferred to the USS Guadalcanal and flew night missions.
  16. Ukrainian KrAZ-6446 Tractor with MAZ/ChMZAP-5247G Semi-Trailer AND Trumpeter T-62 Mod 1960 1:35 Hobby Boss The KrAZ-6446 tractor unit is a modern go-anywhere all-terrain military transporter that is intended to pull a semi-trailer amongst other things. It is built in the Ukraine by the AutoKraz company, and has 6 wheel drive and substantial ground clearance, which coupled with the YaMZ-238D turbo-diesel engine and gearbox lets it climb up to 60% gradients and pull 50 tonnes. The ChMZAP-5427G trailer is an older twin axle transporter for oversized loads, and in military service it is used primarily to transport tanks, with adjustable track guides and eight tyres spreading the load. The G variant is updated with a small well in the load area that is wider and longer than the original, able to carry more load, and is fitted with powered folding ramps at the rear. The Kit This is new tooling, but some of the parts have been seen before such as the trailer (from 2007), and one good thing that isn't made at all clear on the boxtop, in fact isn't mentioned at all other than in the pictures, is that there's a complete T-62 Mod 1960 kit in the box, complete with its own Trumpeter box, instructions etc. that I'll be reviewing separately so that this review doesn't become monolithic in proportion. So, you get tractor, trailer AND a great big tank to finish off the trio and Hobby Boss have really slipped up with their packaging, so be aware. If you're comparing prices between this kit and another manufacturer's kit, you're not comparing like for like. There's a bloomin' great big tank inside the box too! Ok, as long as I've made that clear, we'll move on. Here is the review of the T-62 in its Trumpeter boxing. Go away and read that if you like, then come back here and finish off this review. Or the other way round. Entirely up to you The box is split into three sections by a divider, with one apportioned to the aforementioned T-62 kit, and two to the tractor/trailer. The box contains the T-62 kit in its own box, eighteen sprues and the load bed in sand coloured styrene, two of clear styrene, seven large and nine smaller tyres in black flexible plastic, three sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a length of brass wire, a sheet of die-cut masking material, decals for the instrument panel, instruction booklet and separate colour painting and decaling diagram. With the T-62 out of the box there's a fair amount of room to spread out the sprues, which will come in handy. The first item for assembly is the big diesel lump up front, which is depicted in serious detail with two pages devoted to its construction and plenty of colour call-outs using Gunze Sangyo paint codes and their names. The radiator, gearbox and power-takeoff box are built up together and set aside for assembly within the ladder chassis, which needs its cross-braces and a few blocks removing first. With both sides fitted, it begins to look like the basics of a vehicle, which is improved further by the addition of the front bumper/fender with PE steps, the fifth-wheel base and horse-shoe, the exhaust system and the front axle with steering gear, struts and hubs/brakes parts. The power transfer box is built and installed under the takeoff box, with drive-shafts from the engine and to the rear axle, which sits on a single mighty set of leaf-springs and has a pivot on which the twin axles are then mounted with a substantial drive-shaft between them too. Fuel tanks, stowage, steps and cylinders are added down the length of the chassis rail, and a pair of twin axle fenders are fitted on brackets at the rear, with light-clusters sat on the rear of each one. The larger set of seven tyres are fitted to the four-part hubs of the main wheels, and the direction of the tread is important, so take care at this point. They push fit onto the axles, and will probably need to be glued to prevent losing any in the future. The cab is made up on the floor pan, with seats and driver controls applied, the front of the cab with window frames, dash board (with decal), pedals and steering wheel fixed to the front, then the front windows with wrap-around quarter-lights glued in from the outside, and masked up with the supplied masks. The back, doors and roof enclose the cab, with windows and door cards fitted to the insides of the doors before they are glued in. The roof has a number of small clear lights and a floodlight added, and then it is time to build up the bonnet/hood, beginning with the wheel arches that flank the engine compartment. The hood, with power-bulge and air box are fabricated, but installed later once the windscreen wipers and large wing mirrors have been fitted, and the cab installed on the chassis. The spare wheel is kept in a large frame that mounts transversely behind the cab, with the wheel to the right and a large box (possibly tools?) on the left, and that's the prime-mover done. Now comes the Goose-neck! The two giant curved beams are set either side of a tapering deck that has two bracing struts across the centre to hold everything square once the tabs and slots are all mated together. A pair of mudguard "ears" are fitted to the sites, and two triangular panels are installed at the inside bottom for additional rigidity. Wind-down legs and various fittings are added, and then the load-bed is made up, with only three parts (top, brace and bottom) making up the main bed, but lots of ancillary parts draped around the sides, some of which are made up from folding PE into tapered boxes. The rear fender and additional mudguards are glued to the back, and under the raised aft section of the deck the pairs of twin axles are mounted on large, triangular pivots, with the smaller wheels fitted to the two-part hubs with pins within them, allowing the wheels to rotate if you don't get glue on them. The spare wheel is later fitted to the top of the gooseneck with a T-shaped clamp. The inner guides on the bed are folded up from PE strips into a C-shape, with additional braces along their length. More smaller braces are fitted along the hump over the wheels, and it may be a good idea to solder these in place for a little extra resilience to handling and brumming tanks on and off when no-one is looking. If you don't have any solder paste already, it's quite useful for this sort of soldering. The loads drive up onto the load bed via a pair of ramps shaped like an old woman's shoe, that are made of four layers held abreast by tubes and capped with a ribbed treadplate for the vehicle to gain traction. The "soles" are blanked off with extra panels, with grab-handles, hinges and the manual handles that you can use to raise and lower them (glue permitting) finishing them off ready for gluing to the rear fender. A pair of stop-brackets are bent up from PE for the load bed and attached to slots in the floor, after which it's just a case of joining the two main assemblies together, grabbing your T-62 and making tank noises while you load it up for transport. Markings Unless you count the decal for the instrument panel, there aren't any, and just one scheme is provided on the glossy painting guide. It's green of course, but if you look around the web, there have been other schemes that are a bit more fun, and even some civilian schemes if you feel like a change. Conclusion Quite a good value package overall, with a tank thrown into the mix unexpectedly, and lots of detail. If you have a thing about tank transporter, or just like to the look of this one, it'll build up to an impressive finished model with a little care. Highly recommended. Currently on sale with a deep 35% discount at Creative at time of writing! Review sample courtesy of
  17. I usually stick to painting figures when I'm on leave but I've been well and truly bitten by the aircraft bug and I'm currently building this. It says A-7H on the box but I believe it's in fact an E. So far it's gone together beautifully.
  18. After the Fw.190D, Hobby Boss is to release (a family?) a 1/48th Focke Wulf Fw.190A-8 kit - ref. 81803 Release expected in late April 2018 in China. Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=108 Box art V.P.
  19. Sukhoi Su-17M3 Fitter-G 1:48 Hobby Boss via Creative Models Ltd The Su-17, with its NATO reporting name Fitter was derived from the earlier Su-7 as a project to improve its low speed handling, particularly during take-off and landing. It was Sukhoi's first attempt at variable geometry wings, and when it reached service was the Soviet Union's first swing-wing aircraft in service. To keep the project costs down, the centre section of the wing remained fixed, with the outer able to swing back for high-speed flight, and forward for slow. A pronounced spine was also added to the rear of the cockpit to carry additional fuel and avionics that were necessary with the advances in aviation. The first airframes reached service in the early 70s, and were soon replaced by more advanced models with the designation M3 and M4, designated Fitter-H and –K respectively by the Allies. The M3 was based on a larger fuselage with two seats from the UM trainer variant and had additional weapons options, developed further and was considered to be the pinnacle of the two-seat Fitter line with a heavily upgraded avionics suite including improved targeting, navigation, and yet more weapons options, as well as improved engines. A downgraded version of the M4 was marketed as the Su-22M3, and was in production until the early 80s. Although the Su-17 was withdrawn from Soviet service in the late 1990s, it remained in service much longer in its export guise, where it was used by both Iran and Iraq, Libya and Angola to name but a few, where it had variable success, which likely had as much to do with pilot skill and training as the merits of the airframe. The Kit This is a tooling variation on the original M4 boxing that was released earlier in the year, and reviewed here at the time. There are a number of shared sprues in the box, with new ones interleaved where appropriate. The boxtop artwork downplays the two-seat nature of the kit, with the aircraft heading toward the "camera", foreshortening the fuselage and extra glazing. That said however, there are definitely two seats in the box, and the newly tooled fuselage has those openings ready to accept the cockpits, with the fixed frame between them moulded into the fuselage halves. The box contains sixteen sprues in grey styrene, two in clear, a small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, three "rubbery" wheels, decal sheet, instruction booklet and painting/decaling guide. It seems that someone made a bit of a boo-boo with the instructions, as the sprue guide shows only one seat sprue, with the legend "x2" written in with biro. There is also a loose leaf of corrections to the cockpit instructions, where some of the part numbers have been incorrectly prefixed by a J. A label has been affixed to the page, and the spare leaf is clearly marked "Correction" in English and Mandarin. Construction follows very closely the original boxing, with the large full-length fuselage halves showing the main difference, and accompanied by the two seat cockpit, which is also moulded as one tub with matching seats and bulkheads, instrument panels and side-consoles/walls added. Decals are applied to the consoles and panels to improve detail, and the completed assembly is inserted into the new fuselage along with the nose gear box that is identical to the earlier kit. There's no avoiding installing the nose gear before painting, so take care you don't bend or break it during handling. The nose cone and wedge-shaped splitter-plate are assembled, as is the exhaust with rear engine face and afterburner ring, following which the fuselage can be closed up, taking care to install the glazing panels between the cockpits, which would be very tricky to fiddle into position later, especially as the area is quite fine and prone to damage. Adding the tail and elevators early in the build gives the assembly a lawn-dart look that is spoiled only by the blunted nose. The swing-wings are built up in the same manner as before, with the gloves/inner panels first, which are festooned with fences and pylons, and you are incited to add the main landing gear legs at this point too. The outer panels with separate slats and clear wingtip lights are clipped into the gloves on two lugs, requiring you to make a choice of open or closed configuration at outset, as they don't rotate. The rear-seater's coaming was installed along with the cockpit due to its location, but the pilot's is fitted late in the build with a two-part clear HUD assembly as well as other details. The canopy is supplied with options for open or closed in a fairly confusing profusion of diagrams, and the rear canopy is fitted with the retractable rear-view mirror that is seen on many two-seat Soviet era jets. As per the original boxing, there is the complex pitot probe on the nose, which has a number of small PE parts added to it and a few to the front of the fuselage to depict other sensors. An additional assembly is provided that builds up into a towing bar for the aircraft, which can often be seen either attached to the nose wheel, or lurking nearby for impromptu tractor hook-up. The generous weapons sprues contain the same options as the single-seater, as follows: 12 x AB-100 Iron bombs on 2 x MER 2 x AB-250 Iron bombs 2 x FAB-500 Iron bombs 2 x S-24B on adapter rails 2 x R-60MK on adapter rails 2 x B-13L rocket pods 2 x B-8M rocket pods 4 x Fuel Tanks The back page of the instruction booklet shows the pylon positions of the various options, but as above, check things over before you proceed. Stencil locations are shown on a separate colour page, with positions and colours all called out. Markings Unusually for a Hobby Boss kit, there are four decal options, and all bar one are documented! The stencil count for the airframe seems a little light however, so check your references and pick up some additional stencils from an aftermarket producer. While the schemes are all camouflaged, there is sufficient difference between them to vary appeal. From the box you can build one of the following: Su-17M3 Yellow 87 Su-17M3 Blue 09, Soviet Naval Air Force, Soviet Union, 1980-1990 Su-17M3 Red 13, 1st AE, 168th APIB, Bolshye Shiraki Air base, Soviet Union, 1982 Su-17M3 Blue 21, 101st ORAP (Independent Reconnaissance Regiment), Soviet Union, late 80s Decal quality is typical Hobby Boss, with good register, colour density and reasonable sharpness, although there is a slight offset between the red and white in the numerals 13 on my copy, which is happily invisible elsewhere on the sheet. The misregistration is thankfully small, so shouldn't cause too much heartache. I do however wish that HB would raise their overall game with decals, so that they feel like less of an afterthought and more of an integral part to the package. Conclusion The two-seat Su-17 is quite a handsome aircraft IMHO, and I know I'm not alone in thinking so. It's another decent addition to their large and still growing line of Soviet/Russian aircraft in 1:48, and I'm looking forward to building it some day. Speaking of "large", it builds up to almost 400mm long, with a wingspan of 285mm, which is not insubstantial. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  20. #1/2016 New year, new production line and finally my dad´s first finished model. The new Hobby Boss kit with Aeromaster decals, stencils partly from the sparesbox, brake line on front leg and seat belts added, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. Aircraft of Kommando Welter later designated 10./NJG11 towards the end of war. Only a handful two-seat nightfighters were used in battle more or less successful mostly against Mosquito NFs and British 4-Mots. "Red 8" was captured by British troops and later found its way to South Africa were it is now displayed in a museum. the aerodynamic testbed with the real deal
  21. Just finished this one build out of the box, for my Vietnam collection. Just refined the decals a bit to show the as on real thing. cheers Jes
  22. Vickers Medium Tank Mk.II** 1:35 Hobby Boss via Creative Models After WWI there was a hiatus where it was believed by some that tanks would never see combat again after the "war to end all wars", but reality hit and planning for future wars became prevalent again. The Vickers Mark I bore a resemblance to the tanks of the Great War, but had a fully-fledged turret on top of the hull, giving it a more modern look. It was replaced by the Mk.II, which sometimes served alongside its predecessor as both were used to replace the ageing Mark Vs of wartime design. Only a hundred were commissioned initially, with just over half of these upgraded to the II* by moving the commander's position aft to avoid spent shell cases and install new coax machine gun. The rest were upgraded later to the same standard and called II** because they had an additional wireless compartment added to the rear of the turret, giving it a "bustle" and vastly improved inter-crew communications on the battlefield. Another batch of 20 were built as IIAs and a number of special variants were also made before the tank was phased out just before the outbreak of WWII, although the threat of invasion saw a number taken out of mothballs briefly. The Kit This is a revised tooling of the original kit release in 2016 as the Vickers Medium Tank Mk.I (83878), with new parts added to each of the following boxings, working from the II to the II* and now this variant. The box is typical Hobby Boss, and inside the more delicate parts are protected by a small card divider, with ten sprues in sand styrene plus hull and turret parts in the divider, four sprues in brown styrene containing track links, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small sheet of decals, the instructions and separate colour painting guide. Detail is good, with lots of raised rivets dotted around the slide-moulded hull and turret parts, plus the individual track links, which are crisply moulded. Construction begins with the WWI-esque sponsons, which have well-defined sloped plates on the outer edge to disperse tracked-up mud. Five sets of four road wheels are fitted to the underside of the sponsons, plus a single pair on the end, and the adjustable idler wheel at the front. The hull is built up by adding the hatches and the ball-mounted machine gun in the sides, with the floor panel closing up the underside. Grab handles, steps and various vents, radiators and ports are added to the hull, and the multi-part drive sprockets are installed on pegs at the rear of the hull, joined later by the sponsons, which mate using three pegs to hold it them in place on the sides. A run of return-rollers and a guide rail are glued into the sponsons to support the track, which is fitted later, and a number of PE grilles are added, as is the driver's raised hatch. The tracks are made up from individual links that have two parts each, with the guide-horns fitted to a depression on the inner face of the links. Each run requires 65 links, which are a tight fit and the hollow guide horns are small, so will need a little care and patience. If you use liquid cement and drape them round the road wheels whilst the glue is still flexible, holding them in place with clamps etc., they should look good when painted. If you also use a straight-edge to ensure that they are correctly aligned, the task will be much easier. With the track runs fitted, the fenders can be attached to the remaining slots in the hull sides, with a set of PE brackets formed up to support them, plus the exhaust, light clusters (with optional headlamps) and stiffeners also made up from PE. The turret is mostly preformed by slide-moulding, to which a turret ring is added, and the gun's mantlet slotted into the supports moulded into the turret lower. The coax machine gun barrel slots in next to the mantlet, the radio box is fitted to the rear, and the commander's cupola with clamshell doors popped on top. The final act is to place the turret on the hull (no bayonet fitting here), and fold up then glue on the light boxes that deflect the paltry glow from the headlamps down toward the ground. Markings Only two decal options are provided from the box, which is almost expected for this middle-tier offering from HB, with one only having the number plate "ME 9840", and the other "MK 8227" and series of white Os on the front and turret sides. There's no further information offered, and the decals are all white, so registration isn't an issue, but density and sharpness are just fine, so nothing to worry about. Your MkII** will of course be green. Conclusion A good quality kit of this unusual box-like little tank, which was superseded by the differently boxy Cruiser Mk.I, which fought well in the Mediterranean in the early stages of WWII. With the addition of a commander poking out of the turret, its diminutive size will be well illustrated. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Started building the Cockpit. I used Quickboost seats cause of the great details they provide. Aires aftermarket cockpit would be a great choice, but I didn´t manage to get one. The Hobby Boss details ar not that bad, so I used the kits office..... A few weeks later the Hornet was done. I had some fit issues and in my opinion it is not a beginners kit. I used Revell Aqua Color for painting. For the red outlines on the landing gear doors I use a red Edding pen. Well... worked nice but I will use brush and paint the next time. The weathering was also done with colored pencils. Worked very nice and I will use them again. Thanks for watching. Pete
  24. Hi This is another one for this year even if I started this kit many years ago. The 1/72 Hobby Boss kit is not the best in town but is easy to build except around the front part of the fuselage which is divided horizontally. I tried to compensate the poor detail level by chosing a multi-coloured scheme. This is the Armée de l'air (French Air Force) Republic F-84G-21-RE 51-10809 Thunderjet transfered to France and from EC 1/3 Navarre at Reims AB in 1953. The transfers came from the Hi-Decal HD72049 sheet. Patrick
  25. In 2017-2018, Hobby Boss is to release a 1/48th Embraer EMB-312 Tucano kit - ref.81763 Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012994-hobby-boss-catalog-2017-2018-complete-programme-now-online/ V.P.
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