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  1. an my dad starts another one for the Korean War theme don´t know yet which scheme to do DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  2. HobbyBoss is to release in late February 2019 a 1/72nd Douglas A-4E Skyhawk kit - ref. 87254 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=129&l=en It'll be the first of a 1/72nd Skyhawk family. - ref. 87254 - Douglas A-4E Skyhawk - ref. 87255 - Douglas A-4F Skyhawk - ref. 87256 - Douglas A-4M Skyhawk V.P.
  3. Hobby Boss is to release in late July 2019 a 1/144th Shaanxi KJ-200 kit - ref. 83903 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=139&l=en V.P.
  4. This is the Hobby Boss kit of Richard Vogt's gloriously asymmetrical design for Blohm & Voss. About 20 Bv141Bs were built, intended for short-range reconnaissance and ground support roles. The production details are murky and many airframes are unaccounted for. Competition for the BMW 801A engine meant that production was halted in 1942. The kit contains decals for two 141Bs - call-sign NC+RA, which was photographed while undergoing testing but seems never to have flown operationally; and GK+GH, a later airframe photographed by the US Army in a wrecked condition at the end of the war. I've built the former, which was numbered Bv 141 V10 or Bv 141B 02. I used the kit decals, but ignored the painting instructions, which called for a dark grey interior and RLM65/02/71 exterior. I went with RLM02 interior, which seemed more likely for the date of manufacture, and RLM 65/70/71 camouflage, which fits better with the low-contrast appearance of photographs. (Reference images from Richard A. Franks's Bv 141 Technical Guide.) The kit goes together well and was a pleasant build, the main error being that the propeller is the wrong way round - a particularly glaring error for an aircraft which was designed to be asymmetrical in part to counter the engine torque. Fortunately, True Details make a replacement propeller. I also used the (very nice) Eduard PE detail set, and paint masks from Montex (for the interior) and Eduard (exterior). Paints are Colourcoats from Sovereign Hobbies, weathering a mix of TrueColor Liquid Pigment and Tamiya powders, and Plastikote sealer from a rattle can. These aircraft seemed to get pretty grubby/faded: I was a little more understated with my own attempt at weathering, trying to reproduce this sort of appearance: I did some minor scratch building as detailed in the WiP thread: Here's the result:
  5. I've put the finishing touches to this 1/32nd scale B-24 over the Bank Holiday weekend and took advantage of some spring sunshine to take some pictures of the completed model outside in natural light. I've been working on this on and off for a year or so, and it has been the ideal project to pick up and do a bit to as and when I felt like it. This model doesn't get the best press but I must say I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. You can spend a fortune on after-market improvements if you wish, but other than some seat belts, resin wheels and gun barrels, this is how it comes in the box. The interior is crammed with detail and took a long time to complete - excellent value for your money when you compare it to the price of the other 1/32nd 'heavies' on the market. Fit was excellent throughout and the only filler used was to deal with a small gap along the underside of the nose where, I believe, I hadn't got the interior aligned as perfectly as I could. The turrets, however, are a weak point of the kit. It's been well documented that the rear turret (and forward turret on the J-version) have a very visible seam right down the middle. Aftermarket replacements are currently sold out so instead I used the kit rear turret and painted the mating surfaces black before gluing and this has made the unsightly join a little less conspicuous. For some reason Hobby Boss put heavy framing on the upper turret which doesn't exist on any B-24 turret I've seen, so this was sanded off and the dome given a good polish so it now better represents the Martin turret fitted to this model of Liberator. I didn't want to risk putting the colossal amount of nose weight into this as I was using the kit's plastic landing gear (which is perfectly strong enough to cope with the weight of the 'un-weighted' model) so I made a tail strut as was so often put in place when B-24s are parked on the ground. The kit doesn't come with the most inspiring of schemes for an olive drab B-24, so I did a bit of research on 'Satan's Angels' and painted the model to represent this aircraft as it would have looked in the autumn of 1943 with the group insignia on the tail and the short-lived red surround to the stars and bars. This aircraft was actually written off in a landing accident at Lympne in Kent, when the nose wheel collapsed and it ended up in a ditch on 13th November of that year. I used Kits World national insignia as well as the Profimodeller stencil set. All in all a very enjoyable build, and if you want a large 1/32nd bomber that doesn't break the bank but still gives you plenty of detail, I thoroughly recommend this kit. All the best, Tom Consolidated B-24D Liberator, 'Satan's Angels' of the 328th Squadron of the 93rd Bomb Group, based at Hardwick, Suffolk, Autumn 1943.
  6. Good day, I have been always fond of the USAF Thunderbird #4 Slot position ( also #7 spare ) F-16D. When Hobby Boss released one in 1/72 scale, I jumped at the chance to grab one. Here is a brief recap of my thoughts of this kit……… 1. Simple and straightforward construction. Few parts 2. Nice recessed panel line details. Basic cockpit. 3. Decals were problematic. The decals were prone to tearing and out of shape. The most glaring issues were found on the red nose, undersurface blue bird motif, and tail. I ended up painting the sections that were ruined and tried to get the most important aspects correct. 4. Very lightly weathered with light grey wash and pencils. 5. The exhaust nozzle was an experiment with powders. I used silver powder over grey primer and worked it in with a Q-Tip swab. After a number of applications, I then applied some black wash to the grooves between the petals. I also added a very light dusting of gold and purple for slight staining from the heat build up but that worked it`s way off before and during clear coats. 6. Poor fit of the exhaust section to the fuselage, radome / nose section, and the lower fuselage and wing joint. 7. The centerline tank was added from an Academy F-16 as it was not included. I would recommend this kit to all skill levels due to the ease of construction and it would be a good starter kit for a novice however the decals do require a significant amount of effort. Thank you in advance, Mike First up, the real #4…………
  7. Well I hope everyone had a nice addition to their stashes over the holidays. I requested a 'Wolfpack' F14A for a couple of reasons. I have fond memories of building an Airfix version when I was a teenager, and this Tomcat adorns the front of my old and well thumbed 'Encyclopedia of World Air Power' that I have had since I was a teenager. This is the 4th model I've started since rediscovering modelling (only one completion so far but another coming very soon)... Obligatory picture of boxes and sprues... I'll be working with my 10 year old son on this one. This is my second Hobby Boss kit and one of the things I've noticed is the information on colours / details for the cockpit, engine fans other internals etc is a bit lacking. I'll be having a look at other builds and other model make instructions. Plan is straight out of box... Hand brush with thinned enamels. I'm sure I'll be asking questions along the way... Off to the local model shop to pick up a few colours I need and hopefully make a start with a little assembly and painting today...
  8. #6/2022 Here´s one of my dad´s rare excursions to the more modern world. Hobby Boss Su-17M4 kit with Model Maker Decals. Only used the nose numbers and the airintake decals from this sheet, the national insignias were too large, at least for the HB kit. Found some suiting ones on a Su-30 Caracal Decal sheet. The aircraft would have a lot of stencils, but, as you may have guessed, none on Vietnamese available. The rest of the model is oob. Cockpit painted with AK Real Colors Air Superiority Blue, seatbelts are molded on but additional belts with masking tape. Underside painted with AK Real Color Air Superiority Blue too, upperside done with a selfmixed blue, upper tank side with a selfmixed sandbrown. Added some noseweight to avoid a tailsitter. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235101913-blue-thunder148-suchhoi-su-22m4-fitter-k-vietnam-people´s-airforce/ Vietnam still operates about three dozen Su-22M4 and Su-22UM-3K, which were overhauled and upgraded in the Ukraine. Most aircraft were painted in a sky blue tone, the rest in a 4-tone Soviet style camo (2 greens and 2 browns). DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  9. The next HobbyBoss 1/48th Corsair variant is a Royal Navy Mk.II - ref.80395 Sources: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=63&l=en V.P.
  10. Another one for my Falklands collection - 1:72 Westland Lynx Mk.23, Argentine Navy, Falkland Islands, April 1982. Slightly converted Hobby Boss Lynx HAS.2 kit with Eduard PE parts and some scratch details. Decals are mix of DP Casper, Xtradecal, HB and spares. Thanks for watching!
  11. Now that the French F-84F is finished, my dad stays in the jet age and is about to start a Vietnamese Fitter, using the Hobby Boss kit and Model Maker decals. DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  12. A-26 Invader (83213) 1:32 Hobby Boss via Creative Models Ltd The A-26 Invader underwent a confusing change of designation to B-26 Invader after 1948 by the US Air Force to confuse us (mainly me), and later on back to the A-26 just to complete my befuddlement. It was developed a little later than the Marauder and despite using the same engines it was designed totally separately from its more rotund colleague. It was designed to replace the A-20 Havoc, but it was initially less than popular in the Pacific theatre where its poor cockpit visibility due to the canopy and engine position rendered it unloved by the first users. It was more popular in the European theatre and was accepted as replacement for the Havoc fairly quickly. Two types were designed, The C with a glass-clad bomber nose and the B with a full metal nose filled with either 6 or 8 .50cal machine guns, which coupled with the three in each wing gave it quite a punch, deserving of the Strafer title. It also had a pair of turrets on the fuselage mid-upper and dorsal positions, which were both operated by a single gunner using a complex remote mechanism that flipped between the upper and lower turrets depending on where the gunner was looking through his binocular sights. This trained the guns accordingly and also calculated the correct offset for parallax and lead, but was very complex and caused some delays to it entering service, and even more issues with maintenance in the field. After the war it served in Korea, early Vietnam engagements and other conflicts, ending its days in US service with the Air National Guard in the early 70s. It continued in civilian service as a fire bomber and in other roles, such as actor in the film Always with Richard Dreyfuss playing its brave but ill-fated pilot. The Kit The Invader has been the subject of a few new kits recently, with this being a new addition that will please the 1:32 modeller, as it is the first in this scale, so it’s already the best injection moulded kit of the type in this scale! This twin-engined aircraft is quite sizeable, but my 60cm photoboth can just about accommodate the largest sprues, which came in very handy. The kit arrives in a large sturdy box with an internal divider keeping some of the smaller sprues safe from the weight of the other larger sprues during transit. There are thirteen sprues in grey styrene, one in clear, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), three black flexible tyres, two decal sheets, the instruction booklet and separate colour painting guide. The sprues are individually bagged, and some of them have additional foam wrapping to protect either the parts under the wrapping, or the sprues that rest against them. The clear parts and engine nacelle parts are bagged in bubble-wrap to keep them safe from harm, which although trivial from a modeller’s point of view is worth noting because it should result in fewer damaged of chaffed parts when they reach you. The detail is good throughout, with engraved panel lines, small recessed rivets, raised parts where appropriate, and good detail within the fuselage halves where there are crew areas, all of which adds to realism and visual detail. The bomb bay, cockpit, rear compartment, and three gear bays are all well-detailed from the box, and the clear parts will allow the modeller to show off their work thanks to impressive clarity of those parts. Construction begins with the nose gear bay, which begins with the roof and is boxed-in with the nose gear leg added along with the retraction jack that rests against a short cross-rib. The cockpit is a separate area that sits above the nose bay, but has a gap between those two areas that could be stuffed with nose weight to prevent a tail-sitter. The cockpit floor is filled with a centre console, a pair of multi-part seats with PE stiffener struts, twin control columns with separate yokes, a well-moulded instrument panel with decals included for the dials, rudder pedals, rear bulkhead and coaming over the panel. The turret was operated remotely from within the airframe, and the gunner’s station is next to be built, having a good number of parts and a seat for the operator, then all sub-assemblies are put to one side while the bomb bay is made. The bay walls are separate, and have bomb shackles added and five bombs per wall fitted (or otherwise) along with an insert within the fuselage, a couple of clear windows, the front bulkhead to the bay, and the nose gear bay. More bulkheads and the cockpit are installed within the starboard side next, then with the fuselage inverted, another pair of bulkheads are installed, with a clear window in the nearest angled one to the gunner, so he can survey the bay after the bombing run to ensure all bombs really did leave together. The turret mechanism, mount and ammo boxes are also inserted, plus a front bay lip to match the rear one, both having door opening mechanism fitted. The port fuselage has a large insert fitted within the nose, then another bomb bay wall and windows are added in the same manner, allowing the closure of the fuselage. After the glue is set up and the seams dealt with, the bomb bay and nose gear doors are able to be fitted, as is the rear glass for the gunner’s compartment, some small lights and various small intakes, aerials etc. The glazing at the front encloses the cockpit, with no option of leaving the canopy open, then aft is the remote turret that has two .50cal machine guns and their ammo feeds fitted to the floor under its domed cowling, and a two-part cowled D/F loop behind the aft glazing. The nose cone is a single part with eight holes that allow the nose gun muzzles to poke through from their bulkhead mounts, which isn’t accurate to the real thing, but is simply an expedient method of correctly aligning the gun muzzles. The radial engine is depicted with cooling vanes on each cylinder, and is mated to a featureless rear bulkhead, then joined to the reduction gear bell-housing, which fits to the engine on keyed pegs so that the ancillaries line up correctly. The completed engine is slid into the single-part cowling, which have the cooling flaps moulded in the open position, so you’ll need to cut them off and reposition them if you plan on having them closed on a parked-up machine. The single-piece prop slips over the axle to finish off the assembly, and of course two are required unless you want to fly round in circles. In anticipation of making the nacelles, the main gear bays are built next, having two fictional ribbed halves that close around the gear legs, which have a tough upper section mated to a keyed lower section and separate retraction arm added before they go in. There is an Eduard set available that adds the missing bay edges that is perforated with highly visible lightening holes to help with the look of this area if it concerns you, and it also includes some extras for the nose gear bay. These assemblies are closed in with a front bulkhead and have the “rubber” tyres fitted to two-part hubs installed on the stub-axles. The bays are trapped inside the two nacelle halves, and have their bay doors added to each side of the aperture, then these too are set aside for a while. The first act on the wings is to pierce the flashed over holes for the variety of underwing stores that are provided in the box. With this done, the upper and lower wings are joined and have their two-part flaps and ailerons fitted to the trailing edge, a clear light at the tip, landing light and reflector under the wing, and a choice of small bombs or twin “stafer” gun pods each with twin barrels under each wing. The engine nacelles are also glued into place on their deeply recessed positions, then the fronts of the nacelles are added and the engine cowling assemblies are fitted into the three holes in the front, ensuring that the intake is to the top. They attach to the fuselage on three tabs, and the last task is to install the rudder and the elevators, which all have separate flying surfaces. Check your references to set the dihedral of the elevators correctly, as it is quite pronounced on this type. Markings As usual for Hobby Boss, they don’t tell you the date or location that the three decal options came from, but as there are three, that’s one or two more than you usually get. All three options are silver, and have one French and two American airframes depicted. From the box you can build one of the following: Decals are usual HB standard, with the national markings, a few stencils and walkways included, plus a nice rendition of the instrument panel included. The second sheet is postage stamp sized, and has a lady flying a bomb for the “Mission Completed” option, printed separately because of its use of completely different colours than the main sheet. Conclusion A brand new tooling that seems to have been afforded plenty of detail inside and out with the exception of the main gear bays that have been tooled simply to fill the gap and not for accuracy. You’ll possibly want a little more choice of decal options if you’re not a fan of silver too. If this is going to be a project model for you, there’s plenty of aftermarket already available, but don’t forget that nose gear weight before you close the fuselage. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. #5/2022 My dad finished the next French in the line. Hobby Boss kit with Berna Decals, the nose and fuselage side numbers are a bit oversized, the missing tail "1" was taken from a French Corsair sheet. The roundels come in three pieces with extra blue dot and anchor. My dad only applied them on the fuselage, for the wings he used one piece decals from the MDC Corsair sheet. On the spine, the kit has two lights, as far as seen on pics, the -5 had only one, so my dad removed the other. Eduard seatbelts, EZ Line for the antenna wires, plastic rods for the whip antennas. Used a Hobby Boss Bearcat tank for the late style Hellcat tank, used lead wire for the fuel line and plastic stripes for the two bands. The bomb racks looked wrong, so my dad took some Eduard pieces from the sparesbox. Also the rocket racks with rails are from the sparesbox (think their are from a P-51). The kit doesn´t include gun barrels, used some plastic rods for them. Painted with a mix of Gunze H54 Navy Blue and a touch of normal blue. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235102785-guerre-dindochine148-grumman-f6f-5-hellcat-aviation-navale/ Besides Uruquay, France was also a post WW2 user of the Hellcat. The plane served in the airforce and in the navy. Whereas the airforce replaced their Hellcats with Bearcats in 1952, the navy kept them until 1955. Model shows one of the French Aeronavale aircrafts that served with Flotille 1F (later 11F) during the Indochina War. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  14. And the French theme goes even further DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  15. #4/2022 Beside the recently posted Hobbycraft Bearcat my dad also built a Hobby Boss one. Built mostly oob. Added seatbelts, used plastic rods for the whip antennas, plastic rods and lead wire for the brake lines, EZ Line for the antenna wire and a Quickboost gunsight. Pitot tube came from the sparesbox because the kit has none. The kit has no extra "clamps" for the wing and center positions, they are molded onto the ordnance. Found some in the sparesbox. The exhaust throughs with Hobby Bosses F8F-1 and -1B are the ones from a -2, so my dad used a piece of plastic card to simulate the curved exhaust cover panel. Painted with Gunze C14 Navy Blue. Kit decals used, which were not the best quality. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235102800-siam-cat148-grumman-f8f-1b-bearcat-royal-thai-airforce/ The Royal Thai Airforce purchased 204 Bearcats, starting in 1951. Mostly US aircraft and some used ones from France. they stayed in frontline service until 1962. A few were used in different roles at least until 1972. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  16. Hi there, as announced in a different section of these forums, here the finished build of my 262A-2a. The build was generally pleasant, but not entirely without issues (but then again, for a price of 6 EUR fully acceptable). The transparent parts are on the thick side, so not much is visible in the cockpit which I tried to improve as the OOB version is very basic. Apart from that, I drilled out the MG holes in the nose, added both radar and radio antenna and refined the bomb's leading edges. The decals which come with the kit are quite thin, but strangely stubborn when expected to settle; onyl the massive and repeated use of my chemicals led to a demi-decent outcome. No contest winner, but reasonably acceptable to earn a place on my shelf Hope you like it and as always: comments & critizism welcome! Thanks for looking.
  17. As mentioned in the Hobbycraft thread, my dad changed his plan and will do a Thai or Vietnamese -1 version with the Hobbycraft kit and do the French -1B with the Hobby Boss kit. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  18. Hi fellow modellers Today I present my Hobby Boss F-5E Tiger II Not a bad kit but it did almost kill me For background I started the kit about 4 years ago....... Did a bit (some bad cockpit paint, a few bibs and bobs, pre-painting plenty of parts, assembled pretty much the whole kit but not fiddly ordinance etc) and in the process managed to crack the forward canopy (yes I don't know how either) So I tried to make a mold and "hot make" another canopy with some clear plastic (disaster) Then while trying that I didn't just crack the canopy I completely smashed it Off she went to languish on the shelf of doom Then I decided well I've got a bit done I'll see if I can fashion another forward canopy with spare parts as best I could Cut down something I had in the stash looked "okay" and thought if I model it with the main canopy in open position you won't notice the forward and main parts don't match.......well it's not "entirely" ludicrous So onward...redid the paint in the front office, worked on the canopy to do the best job I could, painted the 3 part camo (ouch that was hard), weathered her got it all done bar attaching the pylons, ordinance and landing gear flaps Landing gear flaps.... Where did my 6 pieces of painted, prepped, glossed, weathered and matt coated rear landing gear flaps go? Where are they...they must be here....bagged....in the box with the rest of the stuff....... Aaaahhhh!!!!!!! So after battling everything and feeling like I had in a small way triumphed over the shelf of doom she came back and bit me hard on the rear!!! Anyway I live on hope of finding the pieces somewhere in my modelling mess but until then I present the almost complete Hobby Boss F-5E Tiger! On a serious note if anyone has the 6 pieces in their spare parts box and don't need them I'd be happy to pay a bit for them and for postage to Adelaide in Australia! This one is for my Brazilian friend Paulo (aka Armoured Sprue) a very generous and amazing modeller Here's the pics (one inside on the workbenck and the others in the Australian sun) Oh forgot to add.... I managed to completely break and repair the fuel refiller three times and the pitot tube twice on my modelling adventure Hopefully the next one is easier....and quicker! Cheers Nut
  19. German 20mm Flak 38 Crew (84418) 1:35 Hobby Boss via Creative Models Ltd The Nazis made extensive use of Flak guns of numerous types during WWII, mostly in their original anti-aircraft role, but later in the war when the Allies were advancing toward their homeland, those same guns were deployed against the oncoming troops with their barrels depressed almost as far as they’d go to make mincemeat of the approaching troops and armoured vehicles. The 20mm+ rounds that Flak cannons fired were incredibly effective against humans and lightly armoured vehicles, but could still incapacitate a Sherman if they impacted the tracks, vision blocks or any of the weapons systems, rendering them useless during that attack at least, with the opportunity of taking out any crew that tried to escape. This figure set is a reboxing of an older Trimaster offering under the Hobby Boss banner, and although they’re not brand-new, they’re still pretty good, holding up well against the more modern sets, with the possible exception of the Kar98 rifles that are a little soft compared to the best available today. If you’ve got any spares from other sets, they could be used instead. The set arrives in an end-opening figure box with a single sprue in sand-coloured styrene filling the available space. There are four figures on the sprue, and their instructions and painting guide can be found on the rear of the box along with a colour chart giving codes in Mr Hobby (acrylic & lacquer), Acrysion, Vallejo, Model Master, Tamiya and Humbrol brands. The figures are all engaged in rolling their Flak unit manually, probably adjusting its position after unhitching from an unseen towing vehicle, or moving to meet the challenge of an newly discovered threat. There is a yellow arrowed bubble on the back of the box stating “Flak38 not included!” just in case you wondered, but they forgot to mention the grass in the box art painting. Where’s my grass??? Anyway, getting back to sensible-land, three of the figures are stood leaning at a sharp angle while they push with both hands against the gun, while the fourth is crouched down with his hands out trying to coax one wheel to move, which you can see on the box art above. Breakdown of the figure parts are pretty standard, comprising separate torso, arms, legs, heads and separate helmets, all of which are covered with a camo fabric. The crew are all wearing later war pea-camo smocks with elasticated cuffs that are well-depicted with realistic drape and form. They all have accessories such as mag-pouches, bedrolls, gasmask canisters and entrenching tools, plus water bottles and mess-kit in its canister. Your only choice of weapon is the slightly-soft appearing Kar98s, which in the box art are slung over their shoulders out of the way, so you might consider using tape, lead sheet or some other slim, flexible medium to create the slings for a bit of additional realism. Conclusion These figures are well-sculpted, and would look equally good pushing any form of wheeled artillery, or even a small vehicle if you felt the urge to diversify. There’s a tiny amount of flash creeping in around the edges of some parts, but it’s mostly on the sprues, although that’s only the work of moments to remove. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Kursk Bailout from the Pocket (84417) 1:35 Hobby Boss via Creative Models Ltd The Battle of Kursk was the turning point of WWII for Nazi Germany where they were definitively beaten by the Soviets, who had finally awoken and revealed their military might that became the steam-roller to push the invaders back to their own borders and beyond. It began with an attempt by the Germans to cut off a salient or bulge that had developed along the front line at the insistence of Adolf Hitler himself, and against the wishes of some of his generals. It began in the summer of 1943 and carried on into August, with the reversal of role of the Germans from attackers to defenders – a role that they were trapped in until the end of the war. Figures of losses on both sides are difficult to be firm about due to the nature and scale of the conflict, but the German generals never recovered from the devastation of their forces, especially in terms of manpower, which could not be replaced quickly or easily by that stage of the war. It meant that more previously protected occupations were drawn into the military, which had a knock-on effect on the production of desperately-needed armaments. This figure set depicts a small group of four soldiers who are withdrawing from combat after one of their number has been injured, necessitating his being supported by two of his comrades, one on each side. The set arrives in an end-opening figure box with a single sprue in sand-coloured styrene filling the available space. There are four figures on the sprue, and their instructions and painting guide can be found on the rear of the box along with a colour chart giving codes in Mr Hobby (acrylic & lacquer), Acrysion, Vallejo, Model Master, Tamiya and Humbrol brands. Three of the figures are wearing later war smocks with pea-camouflage patterning, while the directing officer is wearing a Feldgrau uniform with jodhpur-style pants and calf-length boots. The two supporting soldiers are carrying their comrade between them as he is unable to walk, his feet dragging limp behind him, exposing the hobnails on his boot. They have their Kar98 rifles slung over their shoulders, so you will need to make some thin strips of tape or foil to create the slings, to add a little realism to the scene. They also still wear their stahlhelms, as does the officer, but only one supplied helmet is fitted with the later war cover that is also likely made of the same or similar pea-camo material. The injured man has lost his helmet somewhere near to the front, and his head has hair moulded into it. Breakdown of the figure parts are pretty standard, comprising separate torso, arms, legs, heads with flat-tops and helmets. The soldiers’ pea-camo smocks with elasticated cuffs and cinched waists are well-depicted with realistic drape and form. They all have accessories such as mag-pouches, bedrolls, gasmask canisters and entrenching tools, plus water bottles and mess-kit canisters. The officer has an MP40 clutched in one hand, and on my example there is a little flash evident, possibly due to its proximity to the centre of the sprue where the injection point is. The officer is also pointing anxiously away from the nasty Russians, with a map case hanging from his belt and the top end of a potato-masher grenade sticking from his belt. Conclusion These figures are well-sculpted, and would look good in a diorama of troops on the road back to Germany. As mentioned earlier, there’s a tiny amount of flash creeping in around the edges of a few parts, but it’s mostly confined to the centre and on the sprue itself, and flash is only the work of moments to remove. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. Hobby Boss is to rebox in late December 2016 the Tristar's 1/35th Fieseler Fi 156A-0/C-1 Storch kit - ref.80180 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=76 Box art Even the box art is the same Sources: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/105657-tristar-35034-fieseler-fi-156-a0-c1-storch http://www.tonyshop.fr/tristar-103/tristar-35034-fieseler-fi-156-a-0/c-1-storch-1/35-6060.html For kit reviews: http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/tri/kit_tri_35034.shtml http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/tristar/tri35034.html http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/fieseler-fi-156-c-3-trop-storch-in-1-35/7466 V.P.
  22. Hello Folks, I finshed my F14A and wanna show you the result. My Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAjm2GwS9LzaM7oGt0tt5Og Materials: Mr. Colour Mr. Paint Vallejo Model Air Tamiya Quick Setting Micro Set /Sol Vallejo Putty Acrylic Rod Acryl Tube White OSB Board Base Kit: Thanks for watching!!!
  23. EA-18G Growler (85814) 1:48 Hobby Boss via Creative Models Ltd The EA-18G is a development of the F/A-18F two seat Super Hornet that originally went into service in 1999, and with series manufacture beginning in 2007 of this type, it replaced the EA-6B in the carrier based electronic warfare role. It is a more capable platform due in part to the march of technology, and the fact that it is based on a more modern airframe, allowing it to keep pace with other Allied assets during any mission. The airframe has been adapted to better fit the role, especially the wings that have been revised to provide a smoother ride for the electronic modules, that was achieved by adding wing fences and other tweaks. It still shares over 90% of parts with a standard Super Hornet, so the commonality of parts is of great help toward keeping these key aircraft in service. The aircraft has nine weapons stations that are usually filled with electronics pods specific to its role, although it can also carry more weapons by necessity, but its wingtip stations that would normally carry Sidewinders are instead fitted with detection pods. It can carry two AIM-120 AMRAAM and/or AGM-88 HARM missiles for self-defence on multi-modal conformal fuselage stations, which are its only means of defence due to the removal of its cannon to house additional electronics. As with many complex aviation projects it has had its problems, including technical as well as political issues, such as the desire to slow down production to string out the contract for various reasons. The US will field under 100 airframes by the time the contract is completed, and Australia’s dozen airframes may well make the total closer to that number. Of course, the type is under constant development in order to improve its operation and to resolve any of the inevitable gremlins that occur, with new equipment likely to be fielded and slung under the Growler over the coming years. The Kit This is a concurrent reboxing of Hobby Boss’s F/A-18 new Super Hornet from 2021 with additional parts to depict the adaptations made to the base airframe to create the Growler. It arrives in a large top-opening box with an internal divider, and inside are sixteen sprues and two fuselage halves in grey styrene, two in clear, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), two decal sheets, two glossy colour printed sheets with decal and painting instruction, and the instruction booklet in Hobby Boss’s usual landscape greyscale style. Detail is excellent throughout, with some exceptionally well-moulded gear and equipment bays around the model, and the inclusion of a small sheet of PE to add belts to the cockpit that is behind crystal clear glazing, so will be seen whether you leave the lid down or not. Construction begins with the two seats, which have been slide-moulded to reduce the part count while keeping the detail high. They are both fitted with a set of PE crew belts, and have stencil decals applied to the headbox, which also has a separate drogue-chute on the top, and a back plane fitted before they are dropped into the tub. HOTAS controls are supplied for each of the crew, and additional instruments are applied to the faceted side consoles, with controllers added along with decals. The instrument panels also have decals for their MFD covered faces, and the rear IP has a coaming between it and the front cockpit. The sidewalls are fitted in between the two sections, hiding away the blank interior of the fuselage once installed. As with many modern jets, the nose gear bay is directly below the pilots, and that bay is made from individual sides plus a few small additional detail parts. The bay is attached to the bottom of the cockpit tub using a short I-beam to support the rear, after which the completed assembly is surrounded by the skin of the nose section, which also has a pair of equipment bays moulded-in with impressive detail. Moving quickly on, the upper fuselage is prepared by drilling out a number of holes in its surface, plus those of the lower wing halves that are added early in the build. An A-shaped apron under the Leading Edge Root Extensions (LERX) is also installed along with doors for the built-in crew ladder under the port side, then the nose is attached to the fuselage from below after which it is faired in. With the model righted, the rear ‘turtle-deck’ and insert in front of the coaming are installed, the HUD is made up from two PE parts, two clear parts and a sled that it sits on once fitted to the coaming. The windscreen can be glued in place now, although there is a very fine seam from manufacture that should ideally be sanded away and polished back to clarity. Both parts of the canopy are slightly ‘blown’, so are made using three mould sections, with the resulting seam down the middle on the outside only. The seams on this kit are relatively fine thanks to the reduction in tolerances over the years, and you could create a perfectly acceptable model without bothering to remove them if you don’t feel confident. The circular hole in the nose is filled with a four-part radome, which can be left visible by hingeing the nose cone open in the next step. This is achieved by changing the insert in the rear of the cone for one with the hinge projecting from the side, with a common insert in the top of the cone. There is plenty of space for nose weight in this area for either option, although with the nose closed over, the centre of mass will be that much further forward, so less weight will go further. Hobby Boss have a habit of creating kits with parts that will never be seen again, and this one is no exception, having a pair of engines on the sprues, when only some of the detail will be seen unless you cut away some panels. Each tubular assembly is made up from two sub-assemblies, one made from three sections, the other from two. With the glue dried, they are both wrapped in two-part rings and have further detail parts applied to the sides, and representations of the afterburner and engine faces at appropriate ends. The lower fuselage ‘torso’ is then made up from three larger sections that have the intake trunks made by adding additional surfaces and tiny PE vanes on the inner side walls. The completed engines and their exhausts are fixed into the rear of this assembly, then are joined by the square intake trunks that transition to round by the time they meet the front of the motors. It is then attached to the underside of the fuselage and the moulded-in bays are painted white. They are further detailed by a number of ribs, and small section of the fuselage side is installed next to the exhaust trunking, ready to support the elevons later on. The Super Hornet was (re)designed from the (2nd life) outset as a carrier aircraft, so has a chunky set of landing gear that are captured here in plastic, with the rugged nose gear first to be made from a single part to which the clear landing light and other detail parts are added, then the twin two-part wheels are fixed to the axles, plus a bay door glued to the trailing retraction jack. Using different parts you can pose the launch bar up or down, depending on what you have in mind. The main gear legs are made from halves that trap an L-shaped insert and have layers of jacks fitted over the main struts, with a single wheel on a stub-axle at the end. All bays have additional actuators for the doors added in preparation for a plethora of well-detailed parts, one of which has a PE insert, and others have stencil decals applied after painting. At the same stage, the two equipment bays on the sides of the nose are given doors and stays, with no option shown for posing them closed. The wings are simplistic stubs at this stage, which is remedied now by adding the full-width flaps, each with their actuators, which can be posed deployed or ‘clean’ at your whim. The leading-edge slats and flap spoilers are then added, after which the outer folding section of the wings are made up in a similar fashion, with either a straight or angled joint if you plan on posing your model with wings folded for below-decks. The three pylons per wing are all made from two halves, and are affixed to the wings with another on the centreline that slots into holes in the underside of the fuselage. At the rear you can pose the arrestor hook in either down or stowed positions, and there are also two exhaust petal types for open or closed pipes. On the topside, the wing joints are covered by panels, and fences are installed on the inner wings, plus a few antennae around the nose area. The twin tail fins have separate rudders that differ if the wings are folded, and has a pair of clear lights added to each one, with the elevons just a pair of single thin aerofoils with a peg to join them to the aft of the fuselage. If you recall the optional boarding ladder door fitted at the beginning of the build, the reason it is optional becomes clear right at the end, when you build up the ladder, with separate steps and a brace that rests against the fuselage. It’s not abundantly clear how the area looks when exposed, but there are plenty of photos available online if you’re unsure. The weapons sprues are largely unused other than the gas bags, equipment pods and of course the two types of missile that the Growler carries for self-defence, namely the AGM-88 and AIM-120 with adapter rails. Check your references for the typical load-outs for real-world mission profiles, or use the chart on the rear page of the instructions, although it refers to “fuol tanks”, but then we’re none of us perfect. Markings I’ve been critical of HB’s dearth of information and options for their kits in the past, and was pleased to see two changes with this kit. Firstly, there are a whopping SIX options, and secondly, each option is provided with at the very least an airframe code, and many are also given a date and ship the aircraft was embarked upon at the time. From the box you can build one of the following: VAQ-129 #169136 VAQ-135 #166941 NAS Whidbey Island, 2011 VAQ-135 #166940 NAS Whidbey Island, 2011 VAQ-130 #168268 ‘Zappers’ USS Harry S Truman, 2016 VAQ-141 #166928 ‘Shadowhawks’ USS George H W Bush, 2010 VAQ-132 #166894 ‘Scorpions’, 2010 One sheet of A4 shows the location of the stencils for all decal options, while the individual aircraft are on the other larger A3 sheet, covering both sides and having stencil locations and colours for the weapons/equipment at the bottom of the back page. As usual with HB printing, they’re made anonymously in China, but are of sufficient quality for most, although the red bars on the national insignia seem a little off-centre to me. Conclusion Hobby Boss have created a well-detailed and attractive series of models of the F/A-18 Super Hornet that should sell well for them. The Growler is an interesting off-shoot of the type, and they’re often colourfully painted, as you can see above. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. In 2021 - Hobby Boss is to release a family of 1/48th Super Hornet. - ref. 85812 - Boeing F/A-18E Super Hornet - released - http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1607&l=en - ref. 85813 - Boeing F/A-18F Super Hornet - released - http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1625&l=en - ref. 85814 - Boeing EA-18G Growler - released Source: http://www.moxingfans.com/m/view.php?aid=7201&pageno=1 V.P.
  25. OK here goes... A Hobby Boss 1/48 F4U-5 Corsair. Initially a project for myself and my 10 year old son. We found this kit hard and he lost interest along the way with this kit so it's more my work than his (luckily he's not lost interest in modelling we have another two kits he's working on). The WIP is here. Hand brushed with Revell Enamels the main 'Sea Blue' is a 1:4 mix of Anthracite and Lufthansa Blue thinned with White Spirit. 5 coats applied. Coat of Humbrol Gloss varnish (thinned with Humbrol enamel thinners discovered this half way through the project!!!) hand brushed before decals were applied using Micro Set mainly (a little micro sol for the decals over the detail). I did try a little gun smoke / exhaust smoke by dry brushing some ground pastel (black for the gun, brown / black for the exhaust) but they don't show that well - mainly due to the dark of the blue I think. Final coat of gloss was Humbrol spray enamel. Not sure I was so happy with this finish I think my spray skills probably lacked below my brushing skills. This is my second model since rediscovering this hobby. I learnt a lot. There were a few emotional times when things weren't going right. But some rewards along the way. Here it is 'warts n all'... Any feedback appreciated.
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