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I came across a note on a model shop website saying that Revive It (the replacement for Future/Klear) is no longer distributed in the UK. Sure enough, it has been discontinued on Amazon. A quick search of the net would suggest this is indeed the case, with sites marking it as out of stock or selling it at ridiculous prices - and/or ridiculous shipping. However I did find this supplier on eBay at the normal(ish) price of £12.99 I have a 3/4 full bottle, but bought another 'just in case' (I knocked over a previous bottle and lost most of it!). I know there are alternatives to Future, but once I become used to a product and know its strengths and weaknesses, finding and testing alternatives is a PITA I could do without. The biggest concern for replacement products is how it lasts over time (e.g. does it yellow?). Anyway, this is just a heads-up for anyone else who is a future fan. Cheers, Colin

Hello there. After a long time, I've managed to spray the Future without any problems and have a smooth surface even after 3rd coat. It shines, yes, but there are some dust particles and it seems they stuck there while I was spraying the coats. My question is, how should i get rid of these without ruining the future coat so much? Wet sanding seems to activate the Future lies beneath. However coating that area again seems to fix the problem. Also should I wax with Tamiya stuff (or something else you may suggest) after coating my model with Future and letting it dry like several hours maybe days ? Some say that it dulls the final appearance, but some are using as well. Cheers, Baran

It´s very funny, In past montsh and last days Eduard´s CEO Vldimír Šulc talked about his Top 10 for future projects. No real project, but kit which he wanted make in future. Yesterday night (or today 3:00 AM) when i can´t sleep i tried summarize what he wrote to forums and Eduard Info magazines. I tried to find all post about existing and future projects. I save it only to my computer and not post to any forum. Today without any my endeavour he post his TOP 10 list to czech Modelforum. I can not believe, I guess all without one kits. Of course, his REAL list is better than my list :-). Here is his post: http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=4065#p1898395 No dobrý, dám si pivo Tak na oslavu a pro naději mých top ten v 1/48: Hurricane P-40 (včetně P-36 a H-75) Spitfire Mk.I/II/V P-38 MiG-21F (a možná i spárky) Me 262 MiG-15 (včetně UTI) S-199 / CS-199 (+Bf 109K) Camel Jak-9 (včetně Jak-1/7) Pořadí není pořadím, v jakém bychom tyto typy potenciálně pustili do konstrukce, ani pořadím vydávání. V současnosti jsou v procesu v různých fázích rozpracovanosti tyto projekty: Spitfire Mk.VIII, XVI, F.Mk.IX a Mk.IXE 1/72 Bf 109F a G-2/4 1/48 SE-5a 1/48 Avia Bk.534 a Avia B.534 I.a II.série 1/72 Bf 109G-10 1/48 Fw 190A-3 až 8 a F-8 1/48 Tempest 1/48 Fokker D.VII 1/72 P-51D/B 1/48 MiG-21MF/BIS/SMT/PF/PFM/R 1/72 V tomto případě už je pořadí víceméně tak, jak to půjde po sobě.

Gauzy Glass Coat and Intermediate Agent AK Interactive There was a time when Klear/Future were about the only clear gloss varnishes that people raved about, but since the formula was changed by the manufacturers J C Johnstone in the UK, some people don't like it and some do. Stocks of the original are limited, and going for silly prices, so people look for alternatives. AK Interactive have clearly (sorry – pun unintentional) been doing just that, and have found quite an interesting liquid, which they have named Gauzy. Firstly, I have no idea where the name comes from, but Gauzy it is, and it is available in two flavours (DO NOT drink it!) with differing properties and uses. Glass Coat Gauzy Agent As the name suggests, this is for your canopies and clear parts, which are almost always over-scale, and often not of the highest clarity. The bottle is a stout polypropylene cylinder with a full-diameter screw-cap lid that is initially protected from accidental spillage by a tear-off strip moulded into the lid. It contains 100ml of gauzy, in a form that is well-suited to the shape of most canopies, with insertion an removal facilitated by the wide mouth. The liquid is quite viscous and of a milky consistency, so don't let go of the part you are dipping unless you want to spend the next 5 minutes searching for it with tweezers. The fluid becomes clear as it dries, and dipping the parts improves the clarity by flooding all the tiny imperfections in the surfaces inside and out that would otherwise scatter the light. This is due to the self-levelling properties that evens out peaks and troughs on a microscopic scale. You need to drain any large puddles or areas where its surface tension prevents gravity from evening it out, but this can be done with a lint-free paper, or kitchen roll if you're careful. Set the part on a piece of absorbent material, propped up on a cocktail stick or coffee stirrer to aid draining, and then place a clear container over it to prevent dust from adhering. When dry the canopy can be masked and painted just as normal, but if it isn't marred along the way by your ministrations, it should remain crystal clear, or at least substantially better than it was. If you make a mistake with painting and want to start again, you can re-dip your canopy to remove the Gauzy, although this will also deposit thin layers of undissolved paint into the bottle, so use it as a last resort, or decant enough for the task to avoid ruining a bottle. Also, don't fall into the trap of passing it through the Gauzy a number of times (like folks did with Klear), as it just dissolves the old layer and leaves you with a new one. Conclusion - Glass Coat Gauzy Agent Super stuff in a very useful container that also resists tipping with the attendant mess. It dries to a very strong glossy finish that does exactly what it is intended to – fools the eye into thinking the glazing is thinner than it is. You might notice in the photo that there is a little blemish at the rear of the canopy, which is down to my lack of familiarity with the medium. I left an accumulation without wicking it away, please feel free to learn from my mistakes. Intermediate Gauzy Agent I suspect that Intermediate refers to the viscosity of the fluid, as it is definitely thinner, and not quite as opaque as the canopy dipping variant. It arrives in a more standard Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) container with plastic cap and tear-off retention ring for safety during shipping that you can see in the picture above because it had been opened by then. It is suitable for application by brush or by airbrush, and I have had two successful tests that prove their assertion. Application by Brush With little/no preparation I applied the Gauzy to an old 1:72 He.111 wing (the tip), using a 3mm flat bristle W&N "One Stroke" paintbrush, which performs beautifully in case you wondered. One coat gave a sheen that would be suitable for most decaling jobs, although the sheen was a little patchy. After two coats the shine was much more regular and very glossy. Cutting back between coats would have produced a glass-like sheen I'm sure, as the sheen was already good after my slap-dash attempts. Application using an Airbrush The Gauzy can be sprayed without thinning, and goes on quickly even with the 0.2mm needle of my H&S Infinity. One coat gave a satin shine, while two surpassed the shine of the second coat by brush. The first coat was lighter than the second, which was wet, allowing the Gauzy to level itself while curing. There was a little variation in the shine that could have been due to a little accident I had while cleaning the brush, so I then gave it a third coat that went on beautifully. It really is a joy to spray. Test Notes My workshop was at about 25c at the time of the test, and I had been sanding earlier, so there was plenty of dust around, so you'll have to excuse me if there are any motes now trapped in the finish. Clean up is with water, or any acrylic airbrush cleaner (I used the Premi-Air Foaming cleaner for this test), but as with all clear coats, don't be lazy and let it sit for too long, as it will make cleaning up much more trouble. The wing was painted previously with Ultimate Primer to a matt finish, which was buffed very lightly with a piece of kitchen roll. Conclusion - Intermediate Gauzy Agent This is my new favourite clear gloss, and I'm only sorry I don't have much more of it. It dries quickly to a high shine when correctly applied, and sprays easily. There's not much more you could want from a clear gloss. Yes, I know I've pictured the canopy version in the shine test, but it's just there to show the reflectivity of the finished surface. Review sample courtesy of

Hey guys, I just purchased what I thought was future floor wax for a gloss coat, but it turned out to be something called "pledge floor care finish" will this work like future? Thanks.

Hi fellow modellers. I have just used Future as a gloss coat for the first time. I normally use Enamel or Lacquer glosscoats that I would weather easily with acrylic/water based washes and chalk/pastel water sludges My question now is this...... With Future being acrylic .........what are my choices now for weathering????? Can I still use watered down acrylics or will that soften/remove the Future coat? Should I now used thinned enamels or oils for washes and panel lines. But what do I thin them with and clean them up with?? What about the pre-made stuff like Flory or Tamiya washes? Are they suitable for using on a Klear topcoat??? if so what can you safely clean them off with? I understand you shouldn't use ammonia based anything on Future to clean up (I believe) but is Isopropyl Alcohol or Methylated spirits okay. Is MicroSol and Micro Set still okay for settling decals that have been applied on a Future gloss coat Can you use water to clean up at all on a dried Furture Top coat or is that just not on. Any list of fluids/materials/thinning agents/weathering agents/solvents/aftermarket or specialist products etc that can be used safely for weathering and panel line highlights on a Future gloss coat would be greatly appreciated. Happy modelling everyone! Cheers Bruce

I regularly used to use Klear and never had any problems when using Microsol, even in excessive quantities on large decals. Recently I have been using Future, the milky varnish, and have had a recurringbproblem with Microsol. There apears to be a reaction which causes white haze to form within the varnish on undecalled areas which is impossible to remove. I am using exactly the same painting technique, Halords rattle can grey plastic primer, Xtracrylix, two coats of Future, decals and microsol. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a way of removing the discolouration? Is this something to do with the 'milkiness' of Future? Peter

Hi I have no idea why this happened. I was trying to finish a model I started to years ago and make some reasonable finish on it applying all I have learned. 1. painted with a combination of Tamiya and Mr Hobby 2. sprayed a few coats of Future 3, Applied decals. Used Microset/sol and tried some humbrol decal fix 4 All looking good! 5. All cured over night at various stages 6. This morning decals had faded and parts of the model was very milky. I thought perhaps a dusting of Humbrol 49 Matt Varnish was not enough and decided to spray a bit more OOPS We live ....now its time to LEARN. I have always started a project but nver got this far to completion. I thought here goes my first complete model (despite its many faults) I have some Hannants Flat Varnish (white) which they say dilute with 10%-15% water - SHOULD I HAVE USED THAT? AND WHAT CAUSED THE ABOVE DISASTER.... sorry for the caps...a bit devastated at the moment

Are you tired of having to spend hours and hours of polishing and buffing your canopies and other assorted clear parts back to they're pristine, clear condition after having found a scratch, or made a booboo with your #11 blade or had Tamiya Extra Thin Cement bleed under your careful masking job? Fear your canopy no more, these kind of light damages can be fixed with surprisingly little time, work and profanities. Step 1: using minimum 2000 grit wet and dry (emphasis on the wet) sandpaper, carefully wet sand away the damaged area to where you have removed the damage Step 2: with a soft paint brush apply a generous coat of Future to the offending area and your problem should be solved. Feedback, comments, and tellings off are all welcome

Humbrol Clear (125ml) I should start this review with an apology to Humbrol. I’ve had this product in my possession for other two months but haven’t been able to write this review. This is not without good reason though, as I prefer to use a product of this type before reviewing it. Modelling opportunities have been very limited recently, so I haven’t had the chance to do so. I’ve finally managed to get out to the workshop and fire up the airbrush, so here is the review. Humbrol describe this new product as a thin, clear varnish that goes on clear and stays clear. Presumably that means it is not prone to the yellowing that can be a feature of some spirit based varnishes. Judging by the name, this product is intended as a replacement for the much-missed Johnson’s Klear floor polish that was beloved of many modellers all over the world until its withdrawal and replacement a few years ago. I’ve only used this varnish with my airbrush so far, but I can vouch for Humbrol’s claim that it dries to a low gloss finish which can be improved by the application of further thin coats. This is actually an important point, because if you give in to temptation and spray too much onto your model at once. It will pool and cause an uneven finish. A high gloss can be achieved by more judicious use of the product. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to try dipping canopies in the product, but I hope to try this soon and will update this review with the results. Conclusion From personal experience, I would say that this is an interesting and useful product. I have to confess that I never really got to grips with Klear as a varnish, but find it indispensible for improving the clarity of canopies. First impressions of Humbrol’s Clear are positive, and hopefully this will turn out to be a worthy successor. Review sample courtesy of