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Showing results for tags 'Fujimi'.
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Here is my 1/72 Phantom FGR.2 XV423 "D", 23. Squadron RAF, RAF Stanley, Falkland Islands 1983/84. Old Fujimi kit made "out of the box", except resin ejection seats (Pavla) and Sidewinders (Eduard). Decals are based on Print Scale`s 72-285 set. Thanks for watching! 😊
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Another build from my Aoshima / Fujimi / Hasegawa Skyline Group A comparison thread here. This is the Fujimi R31 GTS-R Group A Skyline (kit #TC-SP-06158) that came in Calsonic livery. I either bought this model very cheap or it came free with another model, I can't quite recall, but either way it was barely worth the cost of the paint and glue I used to build it. The race interior tub, for example, is from Fujimi's R32 GT-R Group A kit, with an R31 dashboard included to shove in as best you can. No under body detail to speak of though the exterior is passable. I used very old (25 - 30 years??) RooDecals to create the 'works' car for the Australian Touring Car Championship as run by Gibson Motorsport. Racing fans will recognise the livery as also used on the first R32 GT-R Group A that ran in - and dominated - the ATCC and spawned the "Godzilla" nickname that got adopted worldwide. (As an aside that R32 was just returned to public eye after an extensive restoration.) The red and blue area were masked and sprayed as I did not trust the decals in the RooDecals set; a wise move as a lot of the decals disintegrated while applying. Grant.
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Happy New Year to all of you! This is going to be my first and hopefully not the only contribution to this GB. These are the parts of the water bus. The masking of all the windows will be lots of fun! The instruction sheet. Added in the box are parts for some traditional Japanese buildings. Maybe a water bus stop? All in all I doubt that the building of this kit will be as straightforward as it seems. Anyway, I'm looking forward to building it!
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These are my models of two Fujimi Nissan 300ZX kits; a Targa Top (kit #03211, ID-4) and a Convertible (kit #03240, ID-SP). I bought these kits many years ago at a deceased estate sale and I did not realise the scale of the damage to the bodies at the time. I knew the Convertible had the front roll hoop bent at both A-pillars but thought I might be able to work with it. The Convertible also had non-kit wheels that - it turned out - would not fit. The roof for the Convertible was molded in clear plastic and included the door glass. It turned out I could wedge the door glass under the A-pillar and keep it upright. Only problem is that I cannot display the convertible without the roof 'up'. The paint for it is Tamiya TS-11 Maroon. The kit wheels for the Targa Top were moved over to the Convertible and some aftermarket Fujimi wheels added. It was only when working with the Targa Top that I realised how badly bent the A-pillars are on this as well. Unfortunately there are no side windows so I could not use that trick twice. None of my (admittedly poor) attempts to straighten the pillars worked particularly well, so they are still quite bad. Paint is an automotive Ford Viper Mica purple. I have not built the Tamiya or (much newer) Hasegawa version of the 300ZX, but they cannot be anywhere near as bad as these. I have cleared two models out of the to-do pile, but these will be top of the list to go when I need more space in the display cabinet! The entire time I was buidling I felt that something was off on the proportions of the Fujimi 300ZX mold. Comparing to a Tamiya 350Z suggests the width and length might be okay. I did not measure and compare to the real cars, but it must be near-ish: Putting the Targa Top on the shelf made it clear what the issue is. It is much too short! Cheers, Grant.
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This is my build of the Fujimi Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R in Mine's LM Evolution spec; kit #18627. I painted the model Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White paint, various metallics for the chassis, and went with a mostly grey interior with some red highlights to match the Mine's livery. I found some Fujimi Mine's Skyline BNR32 GT-R Nur Spec Wheels 18' (#19244) in my drawer of shame and decided to use those instead of the kit BBS-style wheels. Otherwise this is out-of-the-box. Grant. Last photo with an Aoshima Skyline HCR32 GTS-t sedan I built at the same time.
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One of the largest battleships ever built, and certainly one of the most well known, she was the pride of the Imperial Japanese Navy. Saved for the decisive battle that never came, she only saw combat during the Battle of Leyte Gulf, and was ultimately slaughtered by nearly 400 aircraft from 11 aircraft carriers. I picked up this used 1/700 Fujimi kit at a local IPMS show a few years back, but the bow had damage, so its been shelved for a long while. Recently I reached out to Fujimi for a replacement part, which has since been received. All the parts (I hope). A little bit of the superstructure has been started Previous damage Replacement part And next to a 1/72 P-47 for size comparison. I have too many builds going on right now with slow progress (trying to do a good job!), so I need a build that requires easy assembly, easy painting, and completely OOB. Main colors are grey and deck tan, so hopefully I can't mess this up 😅
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This is Fujimi's BMW 325i Group A kit, #TC-96. It is an old motorised kit so has low detail, especially in the chassis. The livery is after a car that ran in European touring car series in the 1980s, though I could not find too much online about it. Reference photos I could find suggested the livery changed in details quite frequently. I think this livery is supposed to represent a Spa (24 Hour?) race. Paint is Tamiya TS-26 Pure White and the kit is essentially straight out of the box. There is only a half roll cage but someone with more patience than me could readily create a more realistic full-cage. The decals were terrible, mostly I think due to their age. They required soaking for a good ten minutes in quite hot water, a lot of decal solution and a few encouraging words. The 'BMW M Technic' decals had to be trimmed and I used a reference photo for placement. I completed the Fujimi M325i road car at the same time, though I think the 325i Group A is a better overall look. They look okay as a pair on the shelf. Grant.
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This is Fujimi's BMW M325i kit (#03241 / ID-60). A very old, originally motorised kit, with the expected low level of detail. I don't believe the body has captured the proportions of the 325i particularly well with the roof line appearing to low to my eye. At least the factory 'wide-arches' are molded in, not a cut-and-shut add on, but as the track was not widened the wheels sit a little to far inside the arches. I think the Fujimi 325i Group A I completed at the same time has a better overall stance. Given this kit comes with the same half roll cage as the Group A kit I decided to give model a track-car feel. Painted the grill red as an homage to the factory M3 Group A cars, masked and painted the bonnet 'BMW Motorsport' stripes, and fitted a left-over decal from the Group A build. Paint is Tamiya TS-47 Chrome Yellow straight from the can, wheels are from the box. It looks okay on the shelf, though I think it needs some number plates. Grant.
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Dear Friends Akizuki or autumn moon was the lead ship of a new class of Japanese super destroyer that entered service in 1941. Rather than being configured as a ship killer with multiple torpedo batteries these were intended more as AA escorts for carrier task forces. Unlike the normal 127 mm Japanese destroyer main armament, these destroyers went for 100 mm 65 cal guns as much handier for AA work with, by Japanese standards, a reduced battery of 4 torpedo tubes. They were 2,700 tons, with a speed of 33 knots and a range of 8000 nm at 18 knots. The Fujimi kit is a good base for the ship but comes to life with the specialised Flyhawk PE set and turrets from Rainbow. Akizuki was in action from the moment of completion and in 1942 took part in defending many of the supply convoys to Guadalcanal. She was sunk in the Philippines in 1944 Hope you like it Andrew
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Following on from the Fujimi Fuso c.1944, I present the Fujimi Kongo - also at 1/350th size also of 1944. I'm nearing the end of another ship and starting to look at what is next. I haven't seen a build log of the Kongo here - if anyone has recommendations to read please let me know! It will likely be a bit of time before I get my teeth into this. Planning will be important. The kit will be a hopefully straight forward out of two box build: Fujimi 60049 sometimes 600499? nominally October 1944 - 38 part build sequence with 22 sprues no photo etch apart from a chain. Pontos detail set 35020f1 with 10 A3 pages of instruction, 309 pieces of brass, 134 pieces of resin and 7 sheets of brass plus a wooden deck. But looking through the details I see some steps are marked x28 (!?!?) so my sanity may extend far enough and it is possible aftermarket guns may be acquired. Anyway here is the kit: stand and 1:1 paint scheme taken out. It looks not dissimilar to the Fuso which is good - i.e. very well engineered compared to Trumpeter or Tamiya from what I have seen. The paint scheme suggested is the same as for Fuso i.e. H17 Hull and H83 structure. Which would mean two models with the same paint jobs which I'm not super keen on. Kongo is the last of the foreign built Japanese capital ships built in Barrow in Furness in the UK. Roughly analogous to the battlecruiser HMS Tiger, the class had slightly larger (14inch vs 13.5 inch) guns, and by WW2 was almost unrecognisable compared to her 1912 launch. The debate about are they battlecruisers or fast battleships appears ongoing. More history will come but this is kept here for my memory. http://www.combinedfleet.com/kongo.htm
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After my good luck with my first Fujimi kit ... ... I thought to right away try the next one. The kit went together as well as the Ferrari, however there were some issues with the decals for the tires. As I read in a blog that another modeler had the same problems, I am confident it had nothing to do with my modeling capabilities The yellow stripes for the rims would just not fit the arch of the kit part. You can see it on some of the pictures. On one I used finally too much softener and it kind of crumbled too ... The Goodyear decals are also somewhat weird. They are not really opaque (not as the white ones for the Ferrari, but that actually goes for the other white decals on the car by Fujimi too), and I am not sure if I like it, as it looks a bit used, or if I am disappointed in them... The blue color might be a tad too dark, compared to pictures of the original, but it matched the decals, so I am ok with it. Otherwise, straight oob with the addition of tobacco decals. As always, thanks for looking and all comments welcome. Here are my other racing related builds: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tAzkGmj4w2fTJir87 Cheers
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FINALLY!!! Finally, a car kit that went together smoothly with no problems and decals that do what they are supposed to do. After probably 5-6 car kits that did not adhere to the above .... (latest of which the 1/20 Academy B195: with decals that practically just fell apart) ... the Fujimi kit was just a pleasure to build, oob - with seat belts as only after market addition and no detailing, it kind of gave me back the believe in my car building skills. So (hoping that you are kind enough to agree ), here it goes: And, yes, the rear wing needs to be readjusted as always, thanks for looking and any comments welcome. Here are my other racing related builds: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tAzkGmj4w2fTJir87 @rob Lyttle Thanks for your remark in the album! Error corrected Cheers
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Joining you with this kit. Offering these options, all 28 Sqdn Kaula Lumpur, around the end of WW2. A kit given to me by a colleague, with all these accessories. And camo marking aids. I'll share the kit parts next Saturday.
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This is my model of the Koenig Specials Porsche 928 S4; Fujimi kit #12003 (RS-03). The model is completely out of the box, painted with Model Master Turquoise Green over Tamiya’s Champagne Gold. The sample dot on the lid of the Model Master paint shows much richer colour deeper in blue so the paint is something of a disappointment. The interior is various Tamiya tans and light browns. The kit is very simple but goes together well, and the final model looks good on the shelf. Thanks for looking, Grant. With my model of the Fujimi Koenig Specials Porsche 911 Biturbo.
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Consider this my PSA (public service announcement) for today: So what I thought was going to be a relatively straightforward and relaxing build of the Fujimi 1/144 B-29 has turned nightmarish. With the airframe all together and the landing gear installed, because it's easier to do that before you assemble the wings, I wanted to test fit the resin wheels I got. They don't fit. They bump into the nacelle and won't go on the axle. Weird! I thought maybe they were bigger than the kit wheels, but no, the kit wheels don't fit either. I rechecked the instructions and yes, I did assemble everything correctly. So this is one of the early boxings of the kit and I have several others, including a much more recent reissue. So I went and got the newer kit and it turns out at some point Fujimi has modified the kit to make the main gear legs stick out at least 3 mm (1/8") further so the wheels will fit on. B#*#%^?s!!! I pulled off the landing gear from my model and have spent an afternoon with brass and styrene tube making the main gear the length it should have been all along! B*##!@y B#*#%^?s!!!! So, word to the wise, the modified versions of this kit have the main gear mounting points extended about 3mm (1/8”) with a half circular section (if it was fully circular you wouldn’t be able to get the main gear strut on at all after the wings are assembled). If your kit doesn’t have those then either build the kit gear up or add spacers to make the gear extend further beyond the nacelle. In addition to the main gear strut, there are 3 points of contact for the drag link and the retraction arms and they all need to be extended. Other than that it’s a nice kit. No, really, it is. It’s much better than the Minicraft/ex-Crown kit in terms of shape and surface detail. The Fujimi kit’s engine nacelles just have a shallow circular depression where the engine should be but there are very nice replacements from Brengun, or buy a Minicraft kit, because they are cheap, and rob the engines from that.
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Hi all, I built this little cute mini digger from Fujimi over the past few days. It's a very nice kit, goes together well, and the arm can fully move, if you so wish. I used some Tamiya and Revell paints on it. Thanks for looking, Pete
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This is my model of the Fujimi Volkswagen Golf MkIII VR6 (kit #03241 / ID-60). The paint is Tamiya TS-95 Pure Metallic Red (Mazda Soul Red) over a gloss black undercoat. Centres of the BBS wheels were painted gold for accent. Interior is various shades of black and dark grey. Homemade numberplates using the “Euro style” of plate available here in New South Wales, Australia. I think this might be the first time I cut the roof and installed the optional sunroof. Arguably the ride height is too high but I decided against modifying; it looks fine on the shelf. The kit had a very different assembly style to what I am used to, with some parts being screwed together – e.g. the seats onto the floor, dashboard into interior tub – while the glass has a snap-kit style of installation with locator pins which meant no glue was required. It would be an ideal kit for someone transitioning from snap-kit to full glue models. Not sure how many kits with this style of assembly Fujimi made, but I think I have a Lamborghini Diablo in my stash that is similar. Anyway, here are the photos. Grant.
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Hello Britmodellers, Mostly built oob, I added a bit of extra detail on this Fujimi Stuka; some interior detail and new flap actuator rods. I did not have a masking set for the canopy, so everything was masked with thin strips of masking tape and some Maskol. I should have searched better! Despite this, the 30+ year old kit is still a blast to build, Thanks for watching! Luka
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This is the Hobby2000 rebox of the Fujimi OA-4M. To the very nice base kit, I added Quickboost seats, Eduard masks, Kelik 3D cockpit decals (first time using these, and they are excellent), a Brengun chaff/flare dispenser, and Eduard LAU-10 Zuni rocket pods (pods in the kit are vastly overscale). Markings are from the kit. The colours are Vallejo FS36320 over FS36495, with Tamiya XF-81 for the green as this seemed a good match for the colour of the kit decals. This was my first attempt at a scheme where the camo has to match up with the decals and I think it turned out fairly well. Chris
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This model of Fujimi’s Subaru Legacy GT Touring Wagon (#03553 / ID-106) has been built for my proposed diorama of the 2001 Rally Australia. The idea is that this fictional car acted as a support vehicle for Subaru Rally Team Australia; a period photo confirms a Subaru Outback with this number plate was used. Built out of the box with the addition of spare decals. Grant. With a real car from the event it may have supported With a fictional recce car from the event
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HI all, I have just completed this excellent Fujimi kit of this beautiful Ferrari creation and have used parts from the Hiroboy update set which included the etched spoked wheels. A bit out of my comfort zone but I needed a break from aircraft. The only real problems I had were in the fitting of the replacement wheels as the resin backpiece left them very wobbly and also prone to detaching from the alloy wheel hub not what a grumpy old git needed! Very pleased with the finish which is Revell Aqua Fiery Red with multiple coats of Mr Color GX 112 thinned 50/50 with Mr Color Levelling Thinners cut back each time with 800 wet and dry (wet). It took a very long time to fully dry hard but worth the effort. What do you think?
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This is Fujimi’s model of the Koenig Specials Porsche 911 Biturbo (kit #12004 / RS-04). I built this completely out-of-the-box, using Tamiya’s TS-95 Pure Metallic Red over Tamiya Pink primer and adding home-made number plates. Though simple, or maybe due to this, the build was easy and pleasurable. Something a little different on the shelf and soon to be joined by the Koenig Specials Porsche 928 S4. For some reason a certain song by Sir Mix-a-Lot keeps coming to mind…. Grant.
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A little german two seater in the making. This is the good Fujimi offering in 1:72 scale. First I will work on the ejection seats. They are quite simple in detail. Cheers, Bas
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Time for a break from all the sporty and classic stuff, this is Fujimi's K12 model Nissan March, or as we call it in the UK, the Micra. I've always had a soft spot for the Micra as it was my first car, so when I saw that kits were available I was always going to be tempted. So here's the inspiration: As for the kit itself, this is one of the simpler kits I've made with only about 60 parts, 12 of which make up the wheels, It's a kerbside kit so no engine apart from the underside which is moulded into the chassis. In fact, lots is moulded into the chassis including the engine, gearbox and most of the exhaust apart from the rear silenced and tailpipe which, oddly, are two separate pieces. On the bright side, the kit does go together very well with most pieces fitting so closely you could almost build half of it without glue. There are a couple of bits I'm not so keen on such as the glass all being one piece and the fact that there was a massive mould line across the bonnet only just above the badge, but overall I'd give this a thumbs up and recommend it as a good (and cheap) kit for anyone wanting to build a more day-to-day car. Just don't use Gunze paints if you're brush painting the seats - I must have spent half the build time on the interior just waiting for it to dry and adding soooo many layers As for the build, despite a couple of things which I think could have gone better overall I'm reasonably pleased with how it turned out. As usual, any comments and constructive criticism are welcome - for example I already know I will be reverting to proper panel washes next time! The full WIP thread is here: And with all that blather done, on with the photos. Quite a few as usual I'm afraid, but I enjoy playing around with the camera as much as building the model so I hope you'll forgive me. First of all, a trip around the car as usual: Next up, a few details. I didn't take one of the underside of the completed car as I was concerned I'd stap the aerial if I turned it over, so this one is from during the build. There are better shots of the interior in the build thread, but this does have the virtue of showing it in place. A close-up of the back of the car. The tail-lights have small indentations for you to paint the colouring, but I think it would have been easier to have had separate red, white and orange clear pieces like some other manufacturers do. And finally, a close-up of the front. One of the bits I'm most pleased with is how the grille has turned out - the photo doesn't do it justice but the drybrushing has really helpd to give the impression of indicators and space behind the grill when you see the model in real life. And finally, time for me to get all self-indulgent as I began playing around with the camera. There should have been one of it in the sun too, but just as I got the shot lined up the sun disappeared behind a cloud, it started raining and the sun wasn't seen for the rest of the day! Not convinced by the first one - I think I might need to get hold of some sort of base with a more realistic image than just plain black card. Meanwhile, this was an attempt to replicate those shots you see of a full moon where the moon is taken behind an object using a really long lens to it appears massive. (Obviously, for this shot there must be a street lamp just out of shot shining on the Micra) And the usual angled shots. Thanks again for looking, and hope you like it.
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Build OOTB. Nice kit to build, but not as good as the Hasegawa version. Painted with acrylics and Revell enable. Cheer, Bas
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