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It all started with me building three of the Roden Rolls Royce armoured cars: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235079254-rolls-royce-armoured-car-1914/ When the Rolls Royce chassis of the armoured cars finally was worn out, the armoured bodies were moved to Fordson truck chassis. As I already had built three different variants of the Rolls Royce I also wanted a Fordson. I ordered a Roden Rolls Royce for my project. Then I needed a Ford chassis. In my local hobby store there was a 917t Maultier and a look at the instructions showed that it had the parts to build the wheel version so I bought it. But as I later found out, it was the wrong chassis. I had to order a V3000s to get the right one. Luckily it also has all parts included for the 917t so I can still build that this if I find an engine of some sort. I started to put the chassis and the armoured body together. As the Roden kit didn't have a complete engine I had to open up the floor to get the Ford engine in. Time has come to start planning for the "cargo bed". The wheels was something that I thought would be a problem. But I think that I found a solution. Airfix messed up with their CCKW 353 truck and made the wheels with five holes instead of six. I had a bunch of those faulty front wheels that I would use now. I cut the tires off from them and sanded down the rims to make them thinner. Then I removed the rims of the Roden wheels and will fit the Airfix rims in those tires. It will probably not be 100 % right but it will be close enough for me.

Good day, colleagues! I finally completed my "long-term construction" The model started at the release, but somehow the assembly did not work right away. Later, the box was again "dug out" in stocks and thoughtfully and with the arrangement "brought" to mind. So, "Katyusha" on the chassis of the British 1.5t truck Fordson W.O.T.8 of these trucks were delivered to the USSR under lend-lease approximately 730 pcs. and naturally, due to the lack of chassis for the Katyusha, the installation was pushed onto this truck as well. In principle, there are few photos of this car, but with Katyusha on board there are 5 pieces at all But even when studying these photos, there were quite a lot of inconsistencies between the ICM product and the real prototype. So: 1. Added the "Katyusha" control panel to the cabin 2.Added Battery box 3. Redesigned front window flaps. 4.Added a junction box on "Katyusha" 5.Corrugated flanks added 6. Slightly "welded" the "Katyusha" 7. Completion of the Katyusha farm 8.Completely redesigned the jacks 9. Modified rockets Of the additions - wheels from PanzerArt with a disc replaced with a native one (wheels from W.O.T. were not on sale then, I had to scratchbuild) Etching from Microdesign Driver from ICM A certain number of bolts from MasterClub Coloring - Akan, Alclad II, a little Tamiya Oil and pigments - some "Hispanic" The result is in the photos Enjoy watching.

Good day, fellow hobbyists. Today I want to show you one of my recent works. Army truck Fordson W. O. T. 6, model from the company ICM. Of the additions - photo etching from Microdesign and some epoxy from my stash (in the body). WIP Prototype Complete model :3 Enjoy your viewing, thank you for your attention)

Model WOT 8 (35590) 1:35 ICM via Hannants Made by Ford UK under the Fordson brand, the WOT 8 was the last of a long line of vehicles using similar nomenclature in service of the British Army. Introduced in 1941 there were approximately 2,500 built, with a number of those sent to Russia as Lend/Lease vehicles of which a few were converted to carry Katyusha rockets. In British service they were used as a prime mover for artillery, particularly in North Africa and Italy. Its large fuel tank gave it a healthy range and a reasonable top speed thanks to the Ford V8 engine that put out 85hp, which wasn’t terrible for the day. The Kit This is a new tool from ICM as part of their WOT line, the WOT6 we reviewed last March here. The kit arrives in a standard ICM box with their captive inner lid and a nice rendition of the vehicle on the top. Inside are eight sprues in grey styrene, five black wheels in flexible plastic, a clear sprue, a small fret of Photo Etch (PE) brass and a tiny decal sheet that is found inside the glossy colour instruction booklet. A few of the parts aren’t used in this variant, but ICM have already indicated they’re going to do a Katyusha fitted variant this year, so we’ve got that to look forward to too. I don’t know about you, but I’m an admirer of rocket launchers and such like. Construction begins with the chassis ladder and the front sub-frame with cross-members and leaf spring suspension, plus a full V8 block made up from a good number of parts. The exhaust has a silencer near the rear and exits the underside at the rear of the aft suspension springs to which the rear axle and differential are fitted, then joined to the central transfer box by a driveshaft with the front axle having a similar reversed layout plus steering box. The drum brakes are hidden behind the wheels, which are made up from the flexible “rubber” part that is sandwiched between the inner and outer hub, plus extra detail parts on both sides, eventually slotting onto a long axle front and rear. The underside is mostly complete, and attention turns to the body beginning with the engine compartment between the two curved front wings. Radiator, air filter and fan are added along with a hand-crank for manual starting, then the radiator hosing is installed so that the side plates that isolate the power plant from the crew cab interior can be added. In the right foot well the driver’s controls are added, with a handbrake further to the rear, and a central instrument panel sits almost on top of the engine. The crew seats sit atop boxes and have separate cushions for back and base, after which the cab can be boxed in, adding detail parts and glazing panels as you go. The sloping cab is trimmed with a dash panel and steering wheel, then separate doors with handles and more glazing are put in place either open, closed or anywhere in between at your whim, then closed in with the rear cab and finally the curved-sided roof. The PE radiator grilles have to be bent to match the contours of the sloped front, and these are later joined by a rain “porch” that prevents ingress of water in the winter, and probably helps divert engine heat from the open cab windows in the summer. The spare wheel and the substantial fuel tank are built next, and positioned behind the cab wall and in front of the flatbed. This is made from a large floor, detailed sides, front and tailgate, with stowage boxes between the front and rear angled mudguards, which have braces holding them at the correct angle to the floor. The bed's cross-rails mesh with cut-outs in the chassis rails, then the wing mirrors, wipers and grab handles are added to the cab, with the tilt hoops glued across the flatbed, and joined by shortened rails that support the tilt lengthways. You can also build the model with the tilt deployed by using the five parts provided on the sprues, but these don’t show the tubular framework inside, so won’t withstand close scrutiny unless you add some detail in there in the shape of wire or half-round rod. Markings There are two decal options for the vehicle, both of which are olive green with a khaki tilt. Despite being a British vehicle the white star was adopted later in the war as the universal Allies marking, which one option uses. WOT 8 1st Czech Armoured Brigade, Germany, Spring 1945 WOT 8 France, Summer 1944 The decals are printed in the usual ICM style with good register and clarity, but the yellow circles seem a little translucent, so it may be wise to prepare for them with a white base layer. Conclusion Another first-rate kit from ICM of an often overlooked British truck that was fairly common both during WWII and after. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Hi gang, I have seen somewhere a photo of W.O.T.6 truck with GS body, serving with NZ units in Italy with load of Bailey Bridge parts... But cannot recall where. Can anyone help please ? Thanks. Tom

Fordson WOT6 British WWII Truck (03282) 1:35 Revell During WWII, Ford UK built a great many vehicles for the British war effort, as well as some 34,000 Merlin engines for Spitfires, Lancasters and Hurricanes. The WOT.6 was a 4x4 light truck (3 ton capacity) with a short cab that housed a 3.6L V8 engine pumping out a fairly paltry 85hp that could get it to 75mph eventually. The engine's location under the cab gave the load bed plenty of space on the chassis rail, and also gave the truck a sit-up-and-beg look. The heat from the radiator had to be redirected by a fairing to prevent it being ingested by open windows, thereby cooking and possibly even poisoning the crew if it wasn't in the best of health. Over 30,000 were built in a number of configurations, and they were in service from 1942 to the end of the war, with those in good enough shape carrying on into the early 60s. The Kit This is new tooling from ICM, which has bow been reboxed by Revell The kit arrives in a small box with their usual top flap on the lower tray, and inside the outer clear foil bag are seven sprues in medium grey styrene, a clear sprue in its own bag, four flexible black plastic tyres and a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, each in their own bags, plus a small decal sheet. The instruction booklet completes the package, and is printed on glossy white paper in colour, with black and red used for the diagrams throughout, and the decal options printed in colour at the rear. British WWII softskins aren't much of a priority for many companies, so it will be happily anticipated by many for that reason, and due to the vast improvement in ICM's tooling in recent years they will be pleased to see that they have packed in a lot of detail to this release, and you can almost bank on there being other versions forthcoming in time if this one sells well. Perusing the sprues shows plenty of detail all over, with the occasional ejector pin that's unavoidable if you're expecting top quality detail on both sides of parts. Common sense has prevailed however, and all the marks are in areas where they either won't be seen, or where they're relatively easy to make good. The construction phase begins with the chassis, which is made up from two main rails, with sub-rails and spacers holding things together, and front suspension moulded into the outer rails. With the chassis completed by adding the rear end, attention turns to the engine, which is a complete rendering, and made up from a good number of parts for detail, including the block, pulleys, transmission and a short drive-shaft that threads through the holes in the cross-members. The two long exhaust pipes with mufflers go under the chassis on each side, and the rear suspension is fitted, which is a substantial set of leaf-springs, then the axles and drive shafts are attached to the suspension and transfer box. Brake drums, fuel tanks, steering arms and struts are all installed before the wheels are built-up around the rubbery black tyres, which have tread details moulded-in, and are finished off by the addition of the hubs, which attach from both sides, and are then detailed with additional parts before they are slotted onto the axles. The undercarriage is almost done, and it's time for the upper surfaces, beginning with the engine bay, which has the front wheel-arches moulded in, and is then detailed with lights, front rail, radiator and some additional ancillaries to keep the engine running. You even get a pair of lower hoses for the radiator to mate it to the engine, and two more longer ones diving diagonally down into the topside of the engine from the top of the rad. There's going to be a bit of painting needed, as the engine can be seen from the underside, even though access is limited. The bay sides are planted, and are joined by internal covers and instrumentation on top, which have a few decals to detail them up. Some of the driver's controls are added on the right side (the correct side) of the engine, and a pair of seats are built up and added to the square bases installed earlier, then the front of the cab is detailed with clear parts and window actuators, before the sides are attached to the edges and lowered onto the chassis, then joined by the simple dash board and steering wheel on its spindly column. The doors are separate parts and have clear windows, handles and window winders added, then joined to the sides in either the open or closed position or any variation of the two. The cab is a bit draughty at the moment, until the rear panel and the roof are added, the latter having a pop-up cover on the co-driver's side, with a couple of PE grilles then added to the front radiator frames after being bent to shape. Now for the truck bed, beginning with the sides, which have two stiffeners added, then are covered with bumpers along the top and bottom edge of the outside face. The bed floor fits into a groove into the bottom, and is kept square by the addition of the front and rear sides. Under the bed are a number of stowage boxes and racks for additional fuel or water cans, which are happily also included, then they are joined by the two parts per wheel that form the wheel arch that are braced on the outside with two small struts. Then it's the fun part! Adding the bed to the chassis, which is kept in the correct place by two ridges under the bed that mate with grooves in the chassis rail. At the front, two light-hoods are fitted above the lights, and the prominent pedestrian unfriendly hood that deflects the rain and hopefully redirects the engine heat from being sucked back into the open front windows on a hot day. The cab is detailed with additional lights, horn, wing mirrors, grab-handles and even some pioneer tools, then the windscreen wipers. Moving backwards, the four c-shaped hoops that support the canvas tilt are applied to the outside of the bed sides, reaching roughly half-way down the sides to obtain a strong join in both 1:1 and 1:35. The final act is to add seven rods along the length of the roof section of the tilt frame, which will need some careful alignment to ensure all the hoops are vertical and correctly spaced. Now you can paint it, but you've probably got a lot of that done already in truth. Markings The decal sheet is pretty small, but it's also quite colourful due to the unit markings that are included. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Army Service Corps, attached 7th Armoured Brigade, Hamburg 1945 Royal Artillery, attached the 50th Northumbrian Infantry Division, Holland 1944 Decals are printed by Cartograf in Italy looking at the sheets number, so there will be no issues with them. Conclusion As soon as I saw this in the box I thought it was an interesting subject, and it looks like ICM have made a nice little replica here. Plenty of detail, some PE parts, and some rubbery tyres for those that don't want to have to paint them. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

I have gotten the 1/35 MMK Fordson W.O.A.2 Utility Car, but am having trouble finding any references. I've googled ( ) and have found some pictures of restaured vehicles, but WW2 pictures are rare. Can anyone point me in the right direction as where I might find some pictures, colourschemes etc.? Are there any books on the subject? Cheers and thank you in advance Hans J

First showing of this new kit from Milicast- I must say I'm very impressed, went together well, captures the look and character of the subject. I will have to buy more from Milicast! The Fordson WOT3 was a 30cwt (1.5t) class vehicle, and was one of Fordsons War Office designs You can see the family resemblance to the WOA1 & 2, WOT1 & 1A, and WOT2, in the bonnet and cab. Painted in the mid-war scheme of SCC2 (Brown) and SCC14 (Blue-black), this is depicted as a Coastal Command example based at RAF Aldergrove. I did my usual of a little, restrained weathering with pastels. I really like this kit; I think Milicast have captured the whole look and feel of the original, and the casting was superb.