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Found 6 results

  1. I'm keen to experiment with using washes to improve the finish of my models, so I would be very grateful for any tips on which wash(es) I should try - colour and brand - and how to get the best results. The models I make are mostly large scale WWII era aircraft, though I also do some vehicles for dioramas. Many thanks in advance for any help!
  2. Hello one and all, Right I am sure questions like this have been asked so many times. I have looked through the backdated posts and couldn't find one that answered my problem specifically. So I turn my modelling failures to the great gurus of Britmodeller for help (was that enough sucking up?! ). Right, I have mastered a few things since the return of the hobby a year or two ago. Try as I might I just can not get the "simple" art of washing sorted... and I dont mean behind my ears either. I have tried everything I could find info on, I have used Vallejo pre-mixed wash, thinned paints, thinned oil paints and even florywash/promodellers wash. Try as I may, they either stick like wet tissue to a school toilet celling or they come off quicker than a cheap hookers knickers. I do not know if its the scale I am modelling in (1/144 some 1/72). Now I must stress I have been using only Humbrol gloss coats to do this (acrylic). I'll write down what wash I used and what happened. Vallejo pre-mixed wash - stuck fast, thinned paints (acrylic and enamel) - mixture of sticking and coming off depending if it had dried. thinned oil paints - came away after an hour of drying. Flory Wash - now in some places it stuck hard and fast despite me washing it with water. While other bits just came straight off. I do have some Humbrol clear, but I haven't been bothered to try it as I assume it's the same formula as a varnish, or close to it. I have been using a cotton bud and wiping in circular motions dipped in whatever medium it needed to get the item off. I'm totally lost as to this "simple" task. I'm not really impressed with the black flory wash either... my one is all bitty despite how well I mix it... :/ Please tell me it's something I am doing wrong and it's a really simple problem. Sorry for the noobness. Kind Regards, Dazz
  3. I will soon finish painting my model (Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS)) and I'm starting to think about decals. I've seen some excellent tips on applying decals in these forums, but I haven't come across anything about surface preparation that answered my nagging doubts/confusion. I've read that I should apply them to a glossy surface, "It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish". So, I already have some 'Revell Clear Matt Acrylic Spray', that I was planning to use to give the model a final protective coat, I chose Matt because I didn't want the model to look too shiny. But it sounds like I would need to use a glossy coat before applying the decals, and then finish with the Matt coat? Would 'Humbrol Gloss Varnish Modellers Spray' be suitable for this purpose? Thanks for any help/tips
  4. Hi all, I have just finished doing some streaking (paint, not naked) with artist's oils and I still have more to do. I want to do some final weathering with pencils, pastels, etc. The question is how long do you need to wait before applying a top coat? The coat I have been paining over is gloss. The terpenoid thinner I have been using has dulled a lot of it but I am not finished yet and need to apply a final dull/matte coat.
  5. Just after some advice on clear coating model cars, I've tried Plasti-kote but I'm not happy with the results, the rattle can has that orange peel effect to it and it looks a little sticky even when dry. So any recommendations on clear coats ( either rattle can or airbrush ) I've been looking at Mr Top coat but to be honest I'm really wary as if it's not right it'll screw up all my hard work. Also what about clear coat over plastic glass, do you guys do this, is it OK? Or do you not even bother with clear coat? Thanks in advance.
  6. I've been reading the build reviews in several modelling mags & it often refers to 'dry brushing', especially when talking about finishing a section e.g. a cockpit. What is dry brushing? Surely when you dip a brush in paint it becomes wet (or am I just being a bit thick here?!). Perhaps it's using a dry pigment like ground up pastel or a weathering powder. Can someone please enlighten me. Thanks, Andrew (Currently saving up for a compressor so I can use my airbrush properly & finish the 1/72 Airfix Sabre that's all built, pending painting. May have to start my Airfix 1/72 Vulcan while I wait)
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