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Found 5 results

  1. 72modeler

    Wallace PV6

    I got this from a fellow Texas modeling mate just now; it depicts the record-breaking flight over Everest with the Westland Wallace PV6, if I remember correctly. Some neat views for detailing your old Frog kit, of which I have a pair. I'm pretty sure @Moa has done one of these. It's a handsome old kite, and those airmen must have had BIG brass ones to fly something like that to that altitude! Beyond hope that Azure or Special Hobby would ever grace us with a new-tool. (He knows I have a thing for big old British between the wars airplanes, like the Bristol 138 and the Wapiti.) Mike
  2. A build from 2 years ago: (The WiP is posted here: How many times have you heard the story of a Frog turned into a Prince by a kiss? However, let's be clear: I am not starting to kiss Frog kits in the hopes that they will magically convert into something better, but I am willing to put a few extra hours to perhaps achieve a nice, decent result. We civil modelers have a much reduced range of choices when it comes to kits available for our modeling tastes, so we have to take advantage of a number of kits that are out there and can easily (or painfully) be converted/adapted into civilian machines. In this case, however, this kit was actually released in the guise intended, long ago, by several manufacturers, using -reputedly- the same molds. Frog, Novo, Maquette and even Hasegawa ( shocking!) apparently have proffered the now classical: "Release the Kraken!" How did I come by this kit? Well, there is this Evil Genius you may have heard of or read about in my postings : Zoenke, from Volkania (actually that's is his super-villain name, he is actually Sönke Schulz, from Lübeck, Marzipanland). He sends evil kits to torture me, usually beasts that you have to struggle with and tame into submission to create a model. And this was one of those. He is so evil that in this case he had (on purpose) glued the fuselage halves together without the interior bits, so I had to practice some surgery to be able to install it. Not only that: he had thrown away half the fin and the windshield (the latter surely an unusable chunk anyway). But in lieu he included a disc made of styrene sheet -see photos bellow- which use or purpose is hidden to me. I am not breaking ground with this build, there are a number of these Everest Expedition models on the Net, built with different degrees of success. All G-ACAZ models I have seen unfortunately did not take in consideration some of the differences described immediately below. I used the Arctic Decals set for the Wallace G-ACBR, and also for G-ACAZ: Beware that there were many very visible differences between these two planes, some of which are: different wing tip/ailerons, different landing gear, absence (in G-ACAZ) of the little cutout inside the bigger cutout on the trailing edge above the pilot, G-ACAZ does not have a rudder/elevator trim tab whilst G-AGBR does, G-ACAZ does not have the "zippers" to access the structure from the fuselage side, but has a small rectangular window on the side towards the bottom, and many, many others that will be detailed as we go. By the way, G-ACBR did not fly over the Himalayas with any kind of national markings, like rudder flash or cockades. The rudder flash is visible in some photos of the plane, taken either before or after the Himalaya flight. Another quite visible difference is an additional diagonal wing strut in G-ACAZ between the two inner front and back struts (the aft one has the large thermometer visible in photos on both planes). G-ACAZ has a flat central wing panel and dihedral on the exterior panels, top and bottom wing. The strut location is also different and it is related to the different landing gear arrangement. The lower wing cut out diagonals meet the fuselage directly, and not a small straight section as in G-ACBR. G-ACAZ did not have wingtip skids like G-ACBR.
  3. A build from 2 years ago: The completed model is here: Fly with me, as we conquer our own modeling heights: Sönke sent what you see here. As you may notice, it is the Russian incarnation of the kit, to make things more difficult for me, since the instructions use Cyrillic characters: New vertical stabilizer (missing in the kit I was gifted) made: Meanwhile the kit's horrid Townend ring is sanded to shape (to the right). Also seen substitute engine: The ring at the back of the kit's engine is sawed-off too; a cut to clear the oil sump made, and it will be used as a necessary spacer between the resin engine and the front part: Both wings have pretty noticeable ejector pin marks underneath. The filling and sanding is confined by masked rib bays to avoid detail loss: More pieces are cleaned-up and readied for the build: You would think that the chances of having to deflect a soccer penalty shot are minimal on-board a plane, but the pilot and navigator believe otherwise, unless of course they are naughty boys: The main landing gear legs have those discs, common on old kits, that have nothing to do with reality: They are mostly removed: After a couple of unsuccessful attempts to deal with interior of the model on the pre-glued fuselage sent by Z, I decided to have a more Gordian knot solution approach to the closed fuselage conundrum, and literally make it or break it. Fortunately it just separated neatly, which will now allow me to work much more comfortably. Some of the bumps present in the molds have been already erased: The engine transplant proceeds, and the exhaust pipes are being connected: All the pipes that connect cylinders and central rim are in place. It looks like these leftover Vega pipes will do well here as exhausts, with the side facing outwards sanded flat: The intake manifolds (18) are made and applied, since they are quite visible: Some sort of vent that is located on the fuselage top behind the Townend ring is fashioned: Some Fotocut (Fred Hultberg's) etched parts are prepared for assembly: The oil radiator parts assembly in progress. I really like Fotocut etched parts, and I am sorry that Fred's health is no good, since his products were amazing: The kit's pilot seat is modified. A bulkhead separating the cockpit and the navigator/photographer's position is fashioned. It seems to have a sort of teller's box to pass messages. There was not seat -as such- for the navigator/photographer, some arrangement surely was made, but it wasn't a seat as the kit's, as you can easily verify watching the contemporary documentary on Youtube : The base for the instrument panel:
  4. A build from two years ago: (The WiP is here: Here is one of the two Westland planes that flew over Mount Everest* for the Houston Everest Expedition, G-ACAZ (The other was G-ACBR). The model is based on the very old and a bit clunky kit by Air Lines / Frog of the Westland Wallace. Some of the editions of these kits had the (poorly researched) "Everest" decals, but the fact is that that the kit needs some modifications to accurately represent one of the machines, and very involving modifications to represent the other. I built both, here is one, the other will be posted today later on. *Mount Everest, by the way, it's a name coined by the then British colonists. The mountain is locally known by two names: Sagarmāthā (forehead or head in the sky) and Chomolungma (mother of the world). My thanks to Mika Jernfors, of Arctic Decals, who designed and provided the high-quality decals I am so spoiled with. Here are some of the necessary mods for G-ACAZ: -Different landing gear -No elevator or rudder trim tabs -Fin/rudder with paint outline -No wingtip skids -Different wing tip and inset ailerons arrangement -Different dihedral -Different strut locations -An additional diagonal strut between the inner wing struts -Absence of little cutout inside the large wing cutout above the pilot's head -The lower wing cutout meets diagonally the fuselage, instead of meeting a straight short section as in G-ACBR -There were no visible "zippers" on the fuselage sides of G-ACAZ. -A small rectangular opening or window is seen low on the fuselage side aft of the lower wing -G-ACAZ has only one aileron control horn (two on the other plane) -The exit holes for the tail control surfaces are slightly different -The oil radiator is in a different position, aft and a bit lower than the one in G-ACBR -There were three diagonal louvers on the nose on each side there are other details. Look at photos of the original. Find out, don't be lazy.
  5. This is a build from 2 years ago: I just posted the RFI, here is the WiP so modelers that are intrested can follow the necessary modifications to the kit: The main modification needed are: G-ACAZ: -Different landing gear -No elevator or rudder trim tabs -Fin/rudder with paint outline -No wingtip skids -Different wing tip and ailerons arrangement -Completely different dihedral and wing sections -Different strut locations -An additional diagonal strut between the inner wing struts -Absence of little cutout inside the large wing cutout above the pilot's head -The lower wing cutout meets diagonally the fuselage, instead of meeting a straight short section as in G-ACBR -There were no "zippers" on the fuselage sides of G-ACAZ. -A small rectangular opening or window is seen on the fuselage side aft of the lower wing -G-ACBR and G-ACAZ have different small "gizmos" on the center section of the top wing there are many other small details. Look at photos. This second kit is an "Air Lines" very old release. If you look at the box illustration, it's totally misleading, a hybrid of the military version with civil regs. Novo releases also featured a similar misleading cover. No pants, of course are to be seen on the molds : The side of the box shows the correct airplane, though. Go figure: This outfit seems to have been associated with Testor: The mold is exactly the same as Frog, Novo, Maquette, etc, but this "Air Lines" release has a much harder plastic, very brittle, and plagued with sink holes. See the difference between the Novo (white) and Air Lines (silver). Nothing you can't deal with, but my advise is that you steer if you can towards the Novo/Maquette releases. I got a couple of these Air Lines kits for a lower than usual price, but will have to work a little more. I purchased two Air Lines kits, the silver has extremely brittle plastic, to the point of really hindering work, the blue is just a little harder than the Novo/Maquette relaeases: The wings are scored on the top surface and carefully "cracked" down to eliminate the dihedral. You may use a thin saw if that works better for you, but keeping straight and clean (on hindsight -and from experience- do all the surface work -sinkholes, new strut locations, wingtips, et.- BEFORE re-doing the dihedral, because the sanding work will stress those dihedral joints): Once the new strut location holes have been drilled, the wings are scored underneath the inner struts' station and again "cracked", this time upwards to obtain the necessary dihedral at the prescribed places (inner struts). The old struts holes need to be filled on both wings. The new holes on the lower wing should go through, as they will also support the new undercarriage legs: I was sanding the prop when it snapped, even unprovoked: The culprit: an air bubble: The tabs have been removed from the elevators and rudder. Other parts were cleaned-up: The fuselage sides are masked and their sinkholes puttied: The wingtip skids are discarded and so are the landing gear parts, since G-ACAZ had a different arrangement: The wings tips are now cut off: The areas on the trailing edges of the wings that need filling are dealt with, the fuselage sides sinkholes that were puttied are now sanded: A donor kit (sorry Diego, I had to sacrifice one kit so another could live -Diego thinks this a sacrilege punished by having to endure a Puget Sound Irregulars Meeting-) provides the wingtips which were cut from the midsections using a plan template. The ailerons are also cut to size: The wingtips are glued: All bits in place, now for the filling, priming and sanding (the ailerons are not glued). By the way, it's better to start this way to modify the wings, adding the wingtips and filling bits and tidying-up, and then crack the wings for the dihedral, since this wingtip operation may cause some stresses that may snap the modified dihedral:
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