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Found 8 results

  1. Trying something a little different, I've had these for at least a year and were one of the main reason I wanted to start having a go at figure painting using decent brushes and acrylic paint to try and do them justice, but I've had so much fun with all the cool 3D print stuff thats available these have kept getting pushed further and further to the back of the list! They are the smallest thing I've done so far, the legion scale seems to be a little weird and hard to nail down from hunting about, but apparently its around 32mm. There are two in the box, one is running with a guy shooting his blaster, and the other is stood still with the rider looking around with blaster drawn. Started by getting them off the sprue (man haven't had to cut sprue in a while! Nice to be back to it!) and then there was just a little seam line clean up mostly on the tauntauns underbelly and arms. IMG_20240602_162540664 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I got the legs and arms on the tauntauns, but left off the top half of the heads and the rolled blankets for ease of painting. With the riders I got the arms on the shooting guy as he's fairly wide open with his pose so no problem for paint, but the other guy holds his blaster across his chest so I left off that arm and both their heads. IMG_20240602_164009889 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Once parts breakdown was sorted I snipped some bits of paper clip then using my pin vice and super glue got them attached to some corks so I can hold them easily while painting. IMG_20240602_173629511 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I gave them all a blast of chaos black primer, and used some white lacquer paint through the air brush to bring out the detail and give a slight zenithal start point. IMG_20240606_200337245 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240606_201820755 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Thats as far as I've got so far, next up I'll get the brushes out and make a start on the fur, I've got another 3D print coming up at some point that involves a large wolf, so one of these is going to have an arctic wolf fur colouring as practice (so a dark ochre for shadow moving through pale yellow to a pure white highlight in only small areas the most in the light) Thanks for looking, more soon
  2. This is my last for 2023, finished last week. Originally started in 2013 (😼) and picked up (and put down) over the years, I finally got it done thanks to a Shelf-of-Doom group build run during the Christmas holidays. The kit is the pre-painted Revell 1/29 Easy Kit with a few mods - I drilled out and enlarged the cockpit clear parts as they're too narrow out-of-box. The right side airbrake was opened up and detailed while the Gunner got his head turned for some movement and both crew repainted. Added some bolt details here & there. The pre-painted kit was repainted and weathered with pastels, Maskol chipping and finished with a Satin cote. Revell_Snowspeeder_9 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_11 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_13 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking and happy new year! Cheers, Dermot
  3. Hi all and here's one I've had on the go since late last year, just never got around to posting. Revell_Star_Destroyer_L1_box by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr This is the "Build & Play" snap-fit kit which has a low parts count and some features like undercarriage (?!) and lights and sounds. For a simple kit, it's over 37cm long and the level of detail is quite good for the scale. Revell_Star_Destroyer_L1_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr I wanted to see if I could improve it by adding some more details including fibre optics and hopefully have it ready for Dublin Comic Con next month. I started by gluing in the 'landing gear' and filling the trenches. I'll also fill the speaker grills and the space for the button. Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_2_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_1_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr There was a really nice build video online by Eagle Models where he showed how narrow the sidewalls were. So I followed his example and increased the height by a couple of mm Out of box: Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_3_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Plastic strip inserts Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_3.1_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Added greeblies Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_4_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr And after. I think it looks better. Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_5_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_6_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Hard to see in this pic but I've added some extra detail with plastic card on the hull. Revell_Star_Destroyer_Wip_7_Hull by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking. Take care and happy modelling. Dermot
  4. Hi. I start another beautiful kit offered by Bandai for fans of the galactic saga of STAR WARS. Specifically the terrifying battle transport of the Empire called AT-AT. The general construction is advanced but until I have completed the cockpit I have not decided to start this post. I certainly believe that it has been a useless and stupid effort because even if you want to see something of what is inside, even using a flashlight, it is impossible. But as I paid for it, I decided that I had to do it. So here I show you: poorly painted, whith Vallejo MC, and worse photographed. I hope to put some progress soon as, as I say, the construction phase is advanced. Regards. Andrés.
  5. I thought I would start a post to say I have started to build my next model. All my models are built from scratch and as before the process will start in 3ds Max. In addition, I have tweaked the version of the T-47 Speeder I created minus the landing gear, I am currently making two Speeders to go with the Walker. All models will be 1/55 scale which will make the Speeders 10cm long and the ATAT around 41cm tall! As before I’ll update with some pics as I go
  6. Hi all. After some problems with the snow used in this small scene (that of AK) and changing the base for a larger one, I can show the work completely finished. For those who want to see the work done on the ships the links are: I have finished it in a month and a half, without messing with any other model in between which is a double achievement on my part. For the short time that I took to do it and because between the beginning and the end I have not taken a different model. Bandai kits related to the Star Wars saga totally and absolutely recommended. I have done some more and I have many others. From the first I can say the same and from the second I can say that the detail is equally impressive. The only but is its price. Even on the other side of the world it is high, here it is simply prohibitive for a normal pocket. Regards.
  7. Hi all. This kit was given to me by a friend to accompany the AT-AT also from Bandai to 1/144 on the scene, diorama or vignette that I am doing about the battle of Hoth of The Empire Strikes Back. It is really simple, so much that it does not carry a passenger compartment. Like the rest of the ships at this scale produced by Bandai: Wing A, X and Y. The Staples. Normally I do not usually put pictures of them since rarely the detail of the pieces can be observed correctly in them and they only serve to see their distribution. But in this case it can be done, although it has really been to show the few pieces of which it consists. Honestly, I think they could have done something of the cabin, minimal but existing, even if it didn't look much anyway. At AT-AT, where it is virtually impossible to see I think they have solved it magnificently, as well as their pilots (considering the scale). A pity that the crystals in this model have to be painted black. I finished riding in about 30 minutes. As the coin is widely seen I have put a cigarette lighter as a reference. Anything known is worth it. As it will not be placed on the base provided by the kit I have closed the hole in the bottom. For this I have used the bumper of the black plastic piece that must go in place. Once the macro has been applied, I observe that I will have to use putty diluted in acetone to cover some small hole in the bottom where the glue has not been enough to convert the joint of pieces into a panel line and review a section in which the molten plastic has covered. Really natural almost no difference can be seen between panels. I could not resist "improving", even minimally, what the kit offers so I took the scriber and distributed some "screws" through the panel lines. I have taken more into account the logic and its possible placement than a specific reference. After all, it is about trying to visually enrich it one more point, if that is possible. The stupid thing about it is that I have not thought of having the 1/48 kit as a reference, which I also have. In search of the base color. The friend with whom I maintain this duel made me the point that although both the AT-AT and the Snowspeeder have a light gray color it is not exactly the same. Regarding this, it was clear that the AT-AT would carry the mixture proposed by Bandai, after making it and appearing appropriate. However, regarding the Snowspeeder I had doubts because it should be a light gray that differs from the AT-AT gray. Looking at the range of light gray that I have, which is quite abundant, I stayed with two: Gunze H-338 and a mixture that I made in his day for a Mirage F.1M. I have finally airbrushed the gray of the F.1M. Next, I masked to apply with Gray the identifying stripes of Luke's Snowspeeder as that of the Squad Leader, unlike the rest that are red. With a liquid mask and later with a brush I have made chunks in the ligth gray. I keep painting the gray identification bands at the bottom. In the upper one there are some marks in red that the kit brings in decals. I prefer to use Vallejo red, somewhat lowered with yellow, and paint them with a brush. As the gray color that I used for the Squad Leader marks seems a bit dark (I think I should have used Neutral Gray XF-53 or similar) I decide to “lighten it up” a bit and how to mask again I don't feel like laborious. I decide to apply the very diluted base color on the dark gray to lighten it. After the experience of the screws this time I use the instructions of the kit at 1/48 as a reference and apply the base color slightly darkened in some panels. The fouling of the model has been to apply different shades of Vallejo brown in the form of filters, some lighter and others darker. The chipping has been with a mixture of gray and black, although I usually do it with one of brown and black. As I progressed, it seemed to me that I was short. However, once finished and looking at the photos, because in person it did not give me that feeling so much, it seems to me that I have passed. It is true that these ships "had" a very neglected appearance, but I would have liked to leave it with a not-so-carried appearance. The next step has been to varnish in gloss, apply oil to highlight panel lines, place decals and varnish in matt. At this point, it is only the model left to place the harpoon launcher, which is already finished, and paint the crystals in black. I will show that in Ready for Inspection. AndrĂ©s.
  8. Star Wars AT-AT Detail Set (03117 for Bandai) 1:144 GreenStrawberry Star Wars and AT-ATs are synonymous to a person of a certain age (self included), and Bandai's recent release of a raft of new kits has been great for anyone wanting to build a collection of Star Wars related models in a couple of consistent scales, rather than box-scale as seems to be the way with Revell, the main European license holder of late. The Bandai kits are snap-together, but don't let that fool you. They are the pinnacle of the injection-moulded art, and you'd wonder initially how they could get any better with the addition of Photo-Etch (PE) parts. These sets from GreenStrawberry are engineered to appeal to the more advanced modeller who will end up painting their creation, and you WILL need Super Glue (CA) to attach the parts to your model. The sets arrive in a flat re-sealable pack, with a black themed backing card, a chunk of thick cardboard to keep the PE safe, a set of instructions (both of which are hidden within), and the sheet of PE brass on display in the front. They are designed to improve both detail, accuracy to the scale/CGI models, and add a scale-thickness to otherwise over-scale parts. The kit cockpit is first to be upgraded, with controls, a central column and details within the cab that are missing on the kit, and should be visible through the visor once completed. Staying with the head, the cheek cannons are fitted with curved "ammo feed" assemblies, and the visor/windscreen is upgraded with a frame to finish it off. The rear of the walker shows off its kit-part heritage with a quartet of 20/40mm flak shields amongst the greeblies, which are all replaced by much more detailed and accurate PE parts that give it a scale thickness unachievable with injection styrene. A raised panel that overhangs the back is also replaced with a thinner PE assembly too, and at the front of the "hump" a triple-layer of PE is inserted into the upstand to better reflect the intake that is present. Each of the feet has a PE skin applied to the curved back/forward pivot, and a curved triangular end cap added the lateral pivot points, while the last section gives a nod to the diorama potential of this awesome model. The Bandai kit includes side access doors that cover up an entrance and plenty of greeblies, which are lost forever if you snap the covers in place. With the removal of the internal fixtures, new frames and hinges are added, allowing the modeller to pose them open with convincing detail on display instead of blank plastic. Anyone fancy building a screen projector on Endor? Conclusion While the snap-together nature of the kit does no justice to the level of detail included in the box, this small but useful set will improve the finished model no-end, as long as you're ready with the glue and paint to integrate and weather the finished article. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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