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Found 17 results

  1. I'm joining in with this one if you'll have me It should be a fairly easy build and hopefully I can get it done by the deadline I'll probably go with the all over BRS red scheme as I have the paint for it, but not the blood and custard for the BR one as on the box It was new and unstarted and I've just glued the engine and chassis together last night ready for painting More pics later hopefully Ian
  2. Mk A Whippet was a British WWI medium tank that was taken into use in March 1918. The tank weighed 14 tonnes and had a crew of three men. Its armour was 14 mmm thick, it had 4 machine guns and the top speed of the tank reached 13 km/h. The Whippet was probably the most successful British tank of the Great War causing a lot of casualties among the German troops. For instance on June 8, 1918 in the attack of Amiens the Whippets broke through the German lines causing the Germans to lose their artillery and letting the allied forces surge through. I made my model from an Emhar kit that in my opinion was quite ok as to the fit of the parts and cleanliness of the molding. In the construction of the model I used various pictures and other sources on the net that I found of the Whippet .
  3. Hi all, Started this build sometime ago, it's the Mk A 'Whippet' Tank of WW1 in 1/72 from Emhar. It was my first with an Emhar kit so didn't know what to expect but it what ever problems I had, I seem to have got round them with no problems. Like most of my AFV builds, I like to do something different with the subject and this was no different, so I decided to open the rear door. I put ammunition storage racks and a driver's position and short of you putting a small camera in there, you can't see bug*er all...why do I do it. It built up alright up alright, painted in 'dark earth', kit decals and weathered with a pin wash to bring out the rivets, a bit of pastel dust and some 'slop' in the mud shoots(?). Many whippets were fitted with 'canvas' track guards, so I made a pair from paper and added at the end. Knocked up a simple base and added some Emhar figures for scale. Thanks for looking Stuart
  4. I have built three A7V kits earlier: https://baecklund.eu/scalemodels/72/a7v.html and have now bought five more kits. When finished they will all be different, not only in colours, so I need to keep the models apart and follow my notes for each one. I want to mount the chassis after the hull has been put together so I cut them in half. First one on the way. #561, A 2'nd lot tank. Female front that was converted to a male. The grills on the hull top has been reduced to 9 from the original 45. It became a bit boring in the end. Door hinges has been reduced to two instead of three. The same goes for the side flaps. I have started to convert the opening for the gun as well. The second one is #562. The same modifications has to be made as on 561. The difference is that this is a true male so it doesn't have the large openings for MG's in the front. Some of them need extra armour added. I said that they were five. As I need the later gun shield's for the socle mount gun and Emhar was of the earlier Buck mount I need to build them. Reminds me a bit of small turrets for 1/350 ships.
  5. Being stuck in the house, it looks like I might now have time for another build and as Steve is building the FJ-2 Fury and Enzo the FJ-3, here is my somewhat different FJ-4B. The USN took delivery of its first “proper” jet (ie not one of a number of hybrid prop and jet planes), the McDonnell FD later FH-1 Phantom in July 1947 followed a couple of years later by the Vought F6U Pirate and the North American FJ-1 Fury. None of these early straight winged jets were particularly successful and were only produced in small numbers – 60 Phantoms 1's, 30 Pirates, and 30 Fury's. However, by merging a modified FJ-1 fuselage with swept wings North American produced the highly successful F-86 Sabre (and yes that is a bit of a simplification). Needless to say the USN liked the Sabre and wanted a shipboard version so NA produced a folding wing carrier version as the FJ-2, followed by the improved and more powerful FJ-3. The final version was the FJ-4 which was modified to increase the range. A 50% increase in fuel capacity resulted in a shorter and deeper fuselage, a new longer and and thinner wing with mid span ailerons and inboard high lift flaps, a wider track undercarriage and thinner tail surfaces. It also had 6 underwing pylons instead of the previous 4. First arriving in 1955, 152 FJ-4 were followed by 222 FJ-4B ground attack versions. The FJ-4 was mainly used by the Marines, but the FJ-4B I will be modelling was used by 9 Navy and 3 Marine attack Squadrons. The inbuilt armament of 4 x 20mm cannon was supplemented by Sidewinders, bombs, drop tanks, buddy refuelling tanks or up to 5 ASM-N-7 Bullpup ground attack missiles (the sixth pylon had the control pod). It was also fitted with the LABS system for toss-bombing a nuke! Source - Putnams US Navy Aircraft since 1911 by Swanborough and Bowers. Emhar released their kit in 1989 and 3 or 4 years later I bought it and their slightly later (1992?) F3H Demon. It is rather basic and although the shape is pretty good a few detail modifications may need to be made based on the review by Tommy Thomason aka @Tailspin Turtle in the Naval Fighters volume 25. Guess TT will be able to help me if he remembers that far back (1993 I think)! More as the build progresses. I will be using both the Naval Fighters volume and perhaps the sister "In Detail and Scale " volumes for reference., together perhaps with "American Fighters" by Angelucci. I think I also have a Profile Publications on this as well. Cheers Pete
  6. My entry will be Emhar's 1/72 F-94C Starfire. From Wikipeadia. "The Lockheed F-94 Starfire was a first-generation jet aircraft of the United States Air Force. It was developed from the twin-seat Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star in the late 1940s as an all-weather, day/night interceptor. The aircraft reached operational service in May 1950 with Air Defense Command, replacing the piston-engined North American F-82 Twin Mustang in the all-weather interceptor role. The F-94 was the first operational USAF fighter equipped with an afterburner and was the first jet-powered all-weather fighter to enter combat during the Korean War in January 1953. It had a relatively brief operational life, being replaced in the mid-1950s by the Northrop F-89 Scorpion and North American F-86D Sabre." The kit Not a lot of plastic. Plan is to through a bit of aftermarket at it including a replacement cockpit tub.
  7. The A7V Sturmpanzer was the German high command's attempt at countering the British tanks; for those of us not familiar with the type the wiki entry is very informative. I don't think I'm being nationalistic to suggest that it was inferior to both the British and French tanks, only 20 were built and only one - no.506 'Mephisto' - survives, in the Queensland Museum in Brisbane, having been taken as a war prize by the Australian army. I was a bit surprised to find that a 1/72 kit of the A7V has existed for some time, first issued by Emhar in 2001 and recently re-released - I believe it is the later issue that I have. Meng also produce one in 1/35 which was sort of tempting but I wanted a little inconsequential build so this is probably the better option for me. Here is the box art, illustrated with the 'early' version of 'Mephisto': I have to say the illustration doesn't tally with the colour guide given in the instructions which suggest a scheme of USAF Tan blobs on a USAF Gunship Grey base... The back view showing a later scheme for the same vehicle which looks almost like the mid-to-late WW2 German armour scheme: The construction and painting guides: The sprues - just two of them and about 30 parts: ... and finally the transfers: I don't like the look of these, they are very thick with acres of carrier film, I have ordered some replacement transfers from Black Lion Decals in the Netherlands. I'll decide what paint scheme I'll do when I get them and see the options... Cheers, Stew
  8. Getting used to weathering Decals totally fictitious because the kit decals would not fit around. the bolt heads As this is 1/35 scale please look from 10 foot away Thanks for getting to the end Rodders
  9. A nice simple little build with a fairly terrible kit! Full album here:
  10. Hi all, An appeal to any builders of this kit to ask for any advice before I start the build. I have the Pavla cockpit set as well as the resin tail pipe. My area of concern is really the wheels. Is there an alternative? Has anyone found anything similar from another kit that could work? My first job is rescribing so I have time to pull together as much guidance as you can offer. thanks in advance. Martin Building Sabres one by one!
  11. Hello all For this group build I will be building three Lagg 3's. All will be in 1/72 but the kits are very different. One each of the Roden kit, the Emhar/Frog/RedStar and the Eastern Express kit. I will also be using Kuivalainen photo etch sets, Kora wheels and Steelwork undercarriage doors as a minimum of after market to start with. I may use at least one after market seat, also a Falcon canopy and perhaps two Rob Taurus canopies. All three aircraft can be seen here, they are 'White 68', 'Red 59' and 'Red 52' of 3rd Gv. IAP Baltic Fleet east of Lage Ladoga in winter 1942. All will have varying degrees of white distemper temporary winter camouflage applied: http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/lagg3/3gviap/3gviap.html I have the Roden kit, freshly purchased from BNA model world. This kit is a little notorious for the fact that in reality, although it looks nice on the sprues, nothing really fits together well: Some say with perseverance it is the best Lagg 3 in 1/72. Others say the Dakoplast/Eastern Express is the best. We will see, I am still waiting for that one to arrive. The third is the very old Red Star/Emhar kit. I only have a bagged version with the parts off the sprues and decals. It came with an instruction sheet for a KPM vac form. Although the instruction sheet may seem useless, it actually has some good plans and reference material in it. This kit is extremely lacking in detail and I hope to steal bits from the Roden and use the other two kits and all resources to make this kit the best it can be. I have made one before and it can be thrown together in a couple of hours, but rather more time and care will be taken on it this time. The KPM sheet: I hope to incorporate these three aircraft into a simple, snowy diorama. If anyone can recommend suitable pilot figures please let me know, as this time I'm going to try to include them and have some open canopies This should keep me busy for a while! Thanks for looking Best regards Tony Edited for spelling
  12. Hi all, This is the first armoured vehicle i've built in years! After a trip to the Somme in 2014 I got the bug for WW1 subjects so picked this kit up in a LMS. Its a pretty crude kit, no idea of any accuracy issues but it was fun to build and weather, just need to sort a base out for it now! Cheers Simon
  13. Started this morning The only problem with the body - relatively large hole that can be easily cured with dissolved putty, excess of which is removed with nail polish remover result - the hole has vanished I replaced plastic gun with aluminium tube from Albion Alloys that I sanded to make it more cone like Also replaced machine gun barrels with thin tubes First coat of primer to reveal defects
  14. Bedford ‘OLB’ tanker 1:24 Emhar The Bedford O type chassis was launched in 1939 before the start of WW2 as a lorry chassis biased on specifications set out by the Ministry of Supply. The O type was available in a long wheel base, or short wheel base 5 ton lorry. A quick note to help with the lettering used for models, O is the chassis range, L is long wheel base, S is short wheelbase, B is 5 ton capacity, A is 3-4 ton, D is shown is a factory drop side body with T being a tipper! Confused.... Well this model is an OLB, O type, ‘L’ong wheel base, ‘B’ 5 ton lorry! The O Type was re-specified for military use during the war, with simplified square bonnets, and differing suspension and wheels. Production of the O Type continued until 1953, many have been preserved including the OB (O type Bus) models. A trip to any vintage show will have one or two examples being shown. There is allot of unused parts on the sprues left over from the previous drop side version so the spares box will benefit. Construction starts with the little Petrol engine, the parts have some nice detail but as always you can add more here including HT leads. Take some time on the engine as you can leave the sides off the bonnet to reveal the detail here. Next comes the ladder chassis, this is made up from 2 long rails and 6 cross members. Having built one of these the parts are a very good fit and the location pins and slots give very positive fits and help keep the chassis straight. The small petrol tank is made up in 4 parts and has a horizontal seam that needs to be filled and sanded. The lorry rides on leaf springs and they come next, the locations are OK, but the rear is a bit loose when I built mine. The front axle is fixed so you can’t pose the wheels turned without some work. The back axle fits positively on the back springs, and on my build I made the 2 part back axle, fixed it to the springs before gluing to the chassis as one unit. This helped with locating the springs and keeping the axle straight. There is a short extension to add to the back of the chassis along with some simple side crash bars and cab steps to complete the chassis. The spare wheel carrier on the rear can be glued in place now you can attach it without the spare wheel in place, it’s not easy and it is a bit of a fiddle but the wheel can be added after painting. You can build, and paint the chassis before gluing the engine in place as on some Bedford lorries this may be a contrasting colour. The wheels are very well detailed including the correct hubs and nice period tyres; ensure you paint the inner parts (B60) on the front wheels black as they can be seen through the holes on the outer parts! The tank body has a couple of options, so you need to check the reference pictures of the lorry you are building. You have the option of a 3 or 4 compartment tank, the tank parts need the correct tank lids and discharge ports cutting out, they are engraved markings inside the top and bottom of the tank, the instruction sheet shows what ports need cutting, so take care as this may become confusing. There is also the option of flat end caps, or domed ends to the tank, so again check your references here. The instructions give no guidance on what parts you need for the 3 examples on the decal sheet. The tank supports are fitted and you need to ensure you don’t mix up parts N6 and N7 as they are slightly different, the same with support parts M7 and N14! Take your time when removing parts from the sprues! Here the option of 3 or 4 tank compartments makes construction different, and also there are differing tank lids and discharge ports to choose. A single tank walkway is included for the top of the tank, and remember no health and safety back then so no hand rails or non-slip mesh, just a simple ladder and wooden board walk way. Hose racks for the lower sides are added, and there are 4 nice hoses, moulded in hard plastic, for the trays. The ribbed detail is very nice and looks realistic. Being picky it would be nice for them to be a soft flexible vinyl so they could be used in a diorama. Now the tank is done it can be painted and decaled before adding to the chassis. The cab is next on the build; the interior can be built, and painted before the complete and painted shell is slid over. As in the 1940’s the cab is simple, seats, steering wheel and some basic dials, there is allot of interior detail shots on line, and in the vehicle walk around area on Britmodeller to help with the paint and details, the bulkhead has the fuse box so you can add some wires and a few more details here. With the interior on the chassis a few piles link to the very nicely detailed radiator and radiator shell. The moulding is exquisite with the thin bars and the complex shape very well captured, the same goes for the bonnet sides, they are thin and scaled well, they can be left off to show off your engine, maybe in a garage having a bit of work done! The cab shell is a single part, and this is a newer version. On the early castings there was a nasty seam on the back of the roof, this isn’t present on the review kit, but a smaller one is present on the front edge, it is not as bad as previous versions though. The shape of the cab looks spot on to me, and the separate doors are a god fit, and can be posed open! There is a single window wiper and mirror to fit, but the optional passenger side wiper and mirror are also in the kit so they can be added if required! A single clear sprue is very well packed, being wrapped in foam and in its own bag. The parts are nice, but the engraved ‘mesh’ on the headlamps looks far too heavy and I wish this had been altered in this newer boxing of the lorry. A nice decal sheet contains 3 different liveries for the lorry, Dominion, Cleveland, or Bradford Dyers including the correct registration plates for the 3 lorries, nice badgering decals and some cracking dials for the dash board that look just like the 1:1 dials on the lorry. Conclusion I love the O type Bedford, and this is a very welcome kit in 1:24. This is the 4th version, a Long wheel base drop side, a short tipper and a short recovery lorry also being available. I hope Emhar give us some more versions in the future, (How about an OB Bus?) If you don’t build civvy Lorries I know KFS are about to issue some military conversions for this in resin and etched metal. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Hello all. Now that my Mustang STGB entry is finished and I cannot find a suitable model for the D-Day GB I thought I would throw my hat in to the ring with Emhar's MkA Medium Tank. I've never done armour before (apart from the odd Rhino Transport from when I played 40k) so this will be a new experience for me, also on the off chance that you've seen either of the other two builds I've done recently you'll see that I'm just returning to the hobby. So don't be expecting anything spectacular. Still armed with this walk around and this book I'm going to gove it a damn good try. I'll be modelling the vehicle after the one featured in the walk around which was commanded by C.H.Sewell who was awarded the VC for rescuing the crew of an overturned tank and being killed in that action. This vehicle is currently on display at Bovington Tank Museum. I'm not going to super-detail the thing or anything, for one thing I'm nit up to the task, but I will be adding and subtracting things to make it look more like the one at Bovington. Which i think is only going to involve some very slight modifications such as adding fuse wire grab handles and the like. Anyway, on to the pictures: Messy workbench. With my Mustang STGB hanging out on the corner of the desk begging to be knocked off. Box shot. (blurry) Sprue shots Construction started but...I forgot to take any pictures. So here's some of the little bits I'm adding. This flappy thing was about 12" wide at scale so I chopped it off and added some thin plasticard that was formed around the original piece. It should look like this: Though looking at that thing below...I realise I've left it as the kit intended which is wrong as they have a weird stand off behind them. I'm not sure if I can just pull it off or I might have to fill the gap. If I do remove the piece though the 'flappy thing' will hang over far too much. The fit of the top deck was also wuite poor and will require a lot of sanding and filling. Which means I'll have to add the rivets back. I've heard PVA glue and a cocktail stick can be used for this? I also had to add a shim of plasticard under the cabin. Anyway, that's where I'm up to now. I just need to decide what to do with the 'flappy bit' area. Cheers for looking.
  16. Hi all, I am building this thing but I find some details, er, hum, say, "suspicious" and sadly I am unable to find photo evidence, so I guess a site called "Britmodeller" will surely be the best place to ask for help. 1.- Is the rear muffler (I think that´s the thing's name) really over a roof hatch so that this would be impossible to open? 2.- The upper open "box" containing it... was it made of wood, thick steel plate, thin steel plate bent over itself? Are the kit pieces for this correct? Was it centered over the hull roof? 3.- Does anybody know with certainty if the upper rails are right as per kit instructions, or should them be reversed? What were their real measures? (maybe I would not ask this, because I have already ordered some 3.2mm evergreen angles) 4.- And those vertical pedestals on which they rest, were them also made out of angle beams? In what position, I mean the outer "elbow" facing frontwards & outside, for instance? 5.- Were the rails simply bent, welded, or riveted? Did they have any reinforcing plate? 6.- And now for something completely different, what about the box at the very, VERY rear, low? In my built kit it doesn´t reach the vertical insides of the track guards, there is some gap there on both sides... is this correct or should I snap it off and rebuild it??? Thanks in advance
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