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AGM-114 Hellfire Missiles 1:72 Eduard The AGM-114 Hellfire is an Air-to-ground missile originally developed for anti tank operations. The missile has since been developed for precision targeting of other vehicles, buildings and personnel. It is available in a Laser designated, and radar guided version. AGM-114 Hellfire (6724-148) This set from Eduard gives a complete set of 8 missiles which is the normal load for the combat helicopters deploying the missile. There are clear noses for the Laser version and solid ones for the Radar one. Photo-etch is used for the missiles fins, rear rocket motor, and launcher parts. With two launchers and eight missiles these are a mini kit in themselves. A small sheet of decals provides all the markings you will need for the missiles. As is usual with Eduard all the parts are first class. Conclusion These sets will enhance an already impressive model. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hi everyone For my next project I’ll be building Eduards 1/48 Lysander Mk III. ...This one will be OOB as you get everything that you need in the box. The only change I’ll probably make is to redo the Sutton Harness in tape as I really don’t like the metal alternatives. Cheers Iain

Been working on this for quite awhile now, but quite happy with it now that I have finished. Granted I didn't have the greatest lighting for these photos.

This is my finished F6F Hellcat by Eduard, it was possibly my favourite aircraft I have built so far and everything went together with ease. I would like to note, although it has been six months or so since I made my first 1/48th model and taking my time to do so, as you will tell, I always make a few mistakes with my kits so since I now feel my techniques are close to how I want them to be to get a semi- realistic kit. I let alot of them down with silly mistakes like glue on the canopy etc. and so will be working on making the finished result less flawed. I would like to apologise for the photos, I am yet to figure out how to get the lighting right and do the model justice, I am also sorry for how dirty the desk is with overspray but it was the best I could do with what I had. Hopefully for the next build I will take the time to use a proper camera to try and get some better photo's. Anyway, here it is:

Hello all, I am currently building two Eduard Fw190-A8s and am looking for a prop with external weights for one of my chosen options. Here’s the build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235035722-eduard-fw-190-a8-dual-build/ Can anyone suggest an aftermarket company that produces this in 1/48th, preferably in the UK. Thanks Howard

Canadair F4 Sabre 71 Squadron Royal Air Force Germany Wildenrath 1955 Trying to get back into the modelling groove after a very quiet couple of years. So here is my quick build of Academy's F-86 sabre, representing a Canadair F4. Built OOB with the exception of Eduard Brassin wheels and painted with Mr Paint and Gunze Aqueous Colour. Decals are from an Eagle Strike set. Regards Howard

Having had this in my stash for quite a while I have decided to bite the bullet and start this behemoth. Now this is a Trumpeter kit, and lives up to their usual standards - It is wrong. The wheels have 8 spokes, they should have 7. The boiler back plate and footplate fittings are mainly guess work. The boiler fittings are wrong/inaccurate/missing. I could go on but I'm depressing myself... Having studied the kit and also the excellent (so far) build by @bangle I have decided that the easiest way to make this offering into an accurate representation ids to melt it down and re-cast it. Oh well. To help with this build I have bought the Eduard set, and some excellent castings from LZ Models to replace the wheels, boiler fittings, brakes, and footplate paraphernalia. I'm also using an etch set from ET Models that I was given, it has a lot more on it than the Eduard set so I'll be using the best from both. Coming from a model railway background I long ago came to the conclusion that for a tank loco you should build the chassis first (for tender loco's I always built the tender - I saw so many part built kits where people gave up after just building the loco). I think this is the first time I've built a loco kit from plastic - I'm much more used to brass and nickel-silver. Yay! no burnt fingers from soldering! I'm probably not going to go the whole hog on the detailing, but it's going to be a damn sight more accurate than what your given! So, lets start with the chassis. So this is the basic chassis. I've added some bolt heads using an old punch and die set I've had for years - no idea where it came from. The die set only gives four sizes and this is the largest. Made a bit more progress using the etches. I also made up the base, but used some G-Scale rail that I happened to have (close to Gauge1 10mm/ft) which is a fair match for size if not track width. Neither the front pony truck nor any of the drive wheels are fixed yet, just posed to check the height of the pony truck. If assembled as per the instructions it would float in mid air! The two back-to-back L strips will hold an etched boiler support plate - I decided to leave it off for now rather than knock it off. Compare the state of the work area with the first picture.... Updates will be on an occasional "whenever I do anything" basis as life tends to get in the way a lot. Hope you all enjoy the ride (see what I did there?) Dave

Hello Everyone, The Fokker Wolf 190 is one of my favourite WWII planes and I have been looking forward to starting this kit from Eduard. I really liked the last Eduard kit I made and this kit looks even better, the rivet detail on the wings and fuselage looks awesome so can't wait to see the finished model. I used Gauzy Agent, applied with a tooth pick to create the lens in the instrument panel. Almost completed cockpit, I will varnish it and then give it an oil wash next That's all for now,

I will be building the 1:48 Eduard Lavochkin La-7 in the scheme of Soviet Ace Lt. Col. S. F. Dolgushin. This should be a relatively quick build as it is a weekend edition which means a low amount of parts and no photo etch, i will be building from the box so will use no after market parts. My plan for the finished model is to have a lightly weathered scheme with canopy open and gear down. Hope everyone enjoys the build as it progresses, i hope to add an update every few days if all goes to plan.

Hello there, i wanted to present my latest Project, the Eduard 109G-6 (Profipack Edition) which is undoubtedly one of there best kits and one of the best 109s in 1/48 out there. I chose the Markings for " 2./JG300 Red 8" flown by Kurt Gabler only to find out, that there is a little bit Discussion on this plane on the internet, specifically if Gabler actually flew this Aircraft. But after some research i´m pretty convinced, that this is Gablers Plane. According to the Eduard Instructions, the Aircraft was stripped of paint to reduce weight and drag to match the RAF Mosquitos. Consesus seems to exist, that the "8" on both sides of the Fuselage is actually black, so i put the right decals on. I found it a joy to build, all went together very well, i only had some minor Problems with the Radiators because there was not much room for Photoetch. I must admit, that i kinda screwed up the bare metal paint work. I used Tamiya gloss black as undercoat for the Vallejo metal color Chrome (more like a bright silver) but the surface after painting was pretty rough so i had to sand it down as best as i could with Grit 2000 Sandpaper. In the end i tink it turned out ok. One tip, don´t use Tamiya Clear Gloss with a paintbrush on the Vallejo metal colors, it eats into it, i found out the hard way. From there on i used the acrylic Clears from AK, worked ok. As a first for me, i used an Oil wash on the model and have to say i like it very very much, the oil brings the rivet detail of the kit really to life. The model ws sealed with AK Satin, but i thought it was still too shiny on the wings, so used Tamiya Clear flat on top of that. So, now the pictures, i hope you like it. Cheers P.S.: Dust is the enemy.

Eduard Lightning F1 Thanks for looking Sweaty

Tornado F.3 ADV Upgrades (for Revell) 1:48 Eduard Revell gave us a new Tornado IDS in 1:48 to knock the ageing Italeri and the dubious Hobby Boss kits off the top, and have now tooled an ADV that British aviation enthusiasts know as the F.3, which was our interceptor for quite some time until the Typhoon took over in recent years. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (49880) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals; ejection seat details; coaming instrumentation; sills; rear-view mirrors, and canopy internal structure also supplied. Zoom! Set (FE880) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE881) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of leg-restraints and the pull-handles between the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Exterior (48943) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades, such as delicate new afterburner rings; wing-seal details; reversing bucket ribs and mechanism details; spoiler and spoiler bay parts; aileron bay details; air-brake interior skins for bay and brakes; fuel tank fillers; a new set of vortex generators for the tail with an attachment template and a number of grilles for vents etc. Undercarriage (49881) Consisting of two frets, one of which is nickel-plated and painted, the other in bare brass, this set comprehensively details the gear bays, which are quite cavernous and boxy. The painted fret contains equipment boxes, while the bare fret is structural in nature. The main bay is skinned with details for the most part, with strips for in between each rib; boxes that fold up to add missing detail; gear leg parts including data placards and brake hoses. The nose gear bay is similarly bedecked, and the gear leg gets the same treatment, improving realism immensely. Masks (EX574) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX575) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. I'm quite excited to try these out, as canopy interior detail makes a big difference to a model IMHO. I guess Tface stands for Two Face or something similar? Review sample courtesy of

L-29 Ejection Seats (648375) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Designed in Czechoslovakia in the 1960s, the Delfín was a two-seat military jet trainer used by the Warsaw Pact countries that is still in operation with some countries and in private hands today. It is simple in construction and cheap to operate, with a good safety record due to its pleasant handling characteristics, which endears it to the cost conscious and anyone wishing to stay alive. Inside are two seats which can be used with the AMK kit or the Eduard re-box. As well as the main seat parts there are separate seat pads, headrests, footrests, and photo etched parts for the harnesses & belts. These are pretty much a drop in replacement for the kit parts which really should make the cockpit pop out. Review sample courtesy of

First upload with Village Photos. Any comments appreciated. Thanks for looking

Bf.109G-14 ProfiPACK (82118) 1:48 Eduard The G variant of the 109, colloquially known as the Gustav was one of the primary fighters available to the Luftwaffe during the closing years of WWII, and saw extensive active service, all the while being upgraded to combat the increasing Allied superiority in the air. Happily for the Allies, the supply of experienced pilots was fast running out, so as good as the upgrades were, they couldn't make an appreciable difference to the outcome. The G-14 was brought into service at a crucial time for the Axis forces, as the Allies pushed inland from the beachhead at Normandy, and it had an improved water injection system that gave the engine extra performance, plus the new clear-vision Erla-Haube canopy as standard. It was also an attempt to standardise the design to ease the job of construction, which had become decentralised due to the ferocity of the bombardment of the industrial areas by the Allied bombers at that stage of the war. As a result, few sub-variants were made of the G-14 even though over 5,000 were built, with command fighters and high-altitude variants the main exceptions, but the U4 had a high powered 30mm MK108 cannon fitted through the engine and firing through the centre of the prop. The Kit The 109G has been fairly comprehensively retooled by Eduard from their original, and while this is a new variant some of the sprues date back to the re-tool after issues with the original kit were found. The five-digit product code is a clue to this do-over. The ProfiPACK offers additional decal options as well as other upgrades to the basic kit, and alongside the four sprues of grey styrene you will find one of clear, a sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of pre-cut yellow kabuki tape masks, two decal sheets and the usual Eduard colour instruction booklet printed on glossy paper. There are a lot of these new Gs out there amongst everyone's stashes by now, so most of us are familiar with the fine surface detail and dainty riveting on the outer skin, and the level of detail that has been crammed into this excellent tooling. There are also tons of aftermarket parts available from Eduard for those that want to add even more detail to their models, from engine, cockpits, to wheels, bronze gear legs and flying surfaces. The world really is your oyster when it comes to how much you want to throw at your build, but for many the included PE will be more than adequate. It's all up to you! Predictably the build starts with the cockpit, which has a number of PE controls added to the floor, and a full set of PE instruments that are ready to add to the painted cockpit, as well as the fuel line part that is supplied on the clear sprue because it has a glass section as it runs through the cockpit to allow the pilot easy access for checking if there's fuel getting to the engine. A choice of humps between the pilots knees cater for the cannon fitted U4 sub-variants, and a full set of painted crew belts are supplied on the PE fret, plus rudder pedals for good measure. More PE is attached to the cockpit sidewalls, and with all that glued and painted you can close up the fuselage around it, not forgetting the retractable tail wheel used in one of the decal options, with a spinner back-plate fitted to the front of the fuselage, and the exhaust stubs with their slide-moulded hollow tips inserted from inside into their slots. The nose cannon insert, supercharger intake and cannon bulges in front of the windscreen fit into their respective areas, and a set of flame deflectors made from PE are added over the exhaust stacks to prevent blinding the pilot in low light flying. The G-14 had a couple of options for the tail fin, with the increased use of non-strategic wood, so the fin base is moulded to the fuselage, while the tip is one of two separate choices, with a straight rudder hinge, or the more familiar cranked hinge-line. The fixed tail wheel for four of the decal options is fitted to a recess under the tail at this point too. The wings are full span underneath, and depending on your decal choice you may need to open up some holes for a centre-line rack and on the port wing for the forward-raked antenna carried by most decal options. The wheel bay sides are modular and mate with the inner surface of the upper wings to give an excellent level of detail once finished. A small pair of rectangular panel lines are scribed into the fuselage just in front of the windscreen using a PE template that is provided on the sheet, and a pair of teardrop masks are supplied for the wingtip lights, which are moulded into the wing, but can easily be replaced by cutting out the area and fitting some clear acrylic sheet of a suitable thickness, then sanding it to shape and polishing it back to clarity. A depression depicting the bulb can be drilled in the clear part before gluing to further enhance the look if you feel minded. Separate leading-edge slats, ailerons and flaps are supplied, with the latter fitting around the radiator bays under the wing, which have PE grilles front and rear. A scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the parts to ensure that both layers align correctly as per the real thing. The narrow-track landing gear consists of a single strut with moulded-in oleo scissor, a captive cover that glues against it, and the two-part tyre with separate hubs on each side. A choice of radial or smooth tread is offered with no decal options suggested for each, so check your references, or just make a random choice. The legs fit to scokets in the wheel bays, and horn balances are fitted to the ailerons, the antennae under the wing are added, and a small PE access panel is glued under the fuselage behind the wing trailing edge. Before fitting the canopy, the clear gunsight must be partially painted and fitted to the top of the instrument panel, and a pair of PE grab handles are attached to the inside of the windscreen, which should be partially painted RLM66 inside or outside before the exterior colours. The canopy opener also has PE parts added plus the pilot's head armour and an aerial on the rear, with a PE retaining wire included for posing the canopy open. A manual starter handle is also present in case you wanted to show your G-14 in a more candid pose on the ground. The prop is a single part and is sandwiched by the back plate and spinner before being inserted into the hole in the front of the fuselage. Two styles of additional fuel tank are supplied, one with a flat bottom edge for ground clearance, and the other with a smoother exterior. These fit on a rack that sits on the centreline for two of the markings options, a rudder trim actuator is fitted to three of the options, and a small twig antennae is fitted to all options with a tiny circular base, both of which are made of PE. Markings Decals are printed in Czechia and have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The main markings are carried on the larger sheet, while the stencils are on the smaller one. Stencils are drawn on a separate page of the instructions to reduce repetition and clutter, and each marking option has a page all to itself to cut down on confusion and give the modeller good sized diagrams to follow. From the box you can build one of these five options: Bf 109G-14/U4, flown by Hptm. E. Hartmann, 4./ JG 52, Csór, Hungary, October 1944 Bf 109G-14/U4, W. Nr. 512382, flown by Lt. H. Schlick, 4./ JG 77, Schönwalde, Germany, November 1944 Bf 109G-14, W. Nr. 464380, flown by Magg. M. Bellagambi, CO of 5 Squadriglia, o2 Gruppo Caccia, Aeronautica Nazionale Repubblicana, Osoppo, Italy, March 1945 Bf109G-14, flown by Oblt. R. Schlegel, CO of 10./ JG 4, Jüterbog – Damm, Germany, March 1945 Bf 109G-14, W. Nr. 464534, EJG 2, Pilsen, Czechoslovakia, May 1945 The masks (not pictured) cover the armoured glass in the pilot's head armour, the wheel hubs and of course the canopy, with the curved part having frame-hugging masks that need filling in the compound curved areas with scrap tape or liquid mask. These are a great time-saver and the fit of them is usually spot-on. Conclusion These are superb kits from Eduard, and they are priced well, considering the detail and markings options included. They don't bother with novelties such as magnets to hold cowlings in place, but if you should perchance want to show off your engine, you can get a superbly detailed resin one separately and those that don't want to show off their engines don't have to pay for parts they aren't going to use. The G is my personal favourite, so I'm more than happy to see another one from Eduard. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Fokker E.II Eduard 1:48. Weekend Edition. (8451) One of the most easily recognisable aircraft of the Great War, the ‘Eindekker’ was one of a handful of monoplanes to achieve front line service. Despite its modern appearance, it still used the old style wing warping control method, and was not a particularly manoeuvrable aircraft. It’s great advantage though, was the synchronised machine gun able to fire directly ahead through the spinning propeller. Apart from a few early E.I’s fitted with Parabellum LMG 14’s, all the others through to the E.II and E.III were fitted with Spandau LMG 08’s. Being virtually hand built, and under constant development, there were variations between individual machines. Essentially though, the E.II was the same airframe as the E.I, but powered by the 100 hp Oberursel U.1 instead of the 80 hp Oberursel U.0. And similarly the late production E.II was externally the same as the E.III. All of which creates some difficulty in the identification particular aircraft, especially when the different span wings are added to the mix. Entering service in July 1915, the E.1 and E.II heralded the start of the ‘Fokker scourge’ which saw them dominate the skies over the Western Front, inflicting heavy losses on the British and French air forces. By early 1916 the British had introduced the DH.2, and the French the Nieuport 11. Both were highly manoeuvrable, and tipped the balance of air superiority back to the allies favour. By the end of 1916 the ‘Eindekkers’ were mostly withdrawn from service. The Kit Eduard’s ‘Weekend’ edition of the Fokker E.II is a re-issue rather than a brand new kit, but is very welcome nonetheless. The box contains three large sprues and one very small clear moulding for the windscreen, thoughtfully contained in its own little zip lock bag. Also present is a 16 x 12 cm decal sheet offering two options. There is of course no etched brass fret, as this is the simpler and cheaper Weekend version. The sprues contain the options (wing, engine, cowlings, etc) to build an E.III, but these are marked as unused on the parts map. If you want an E.III you will need to get the Profipack version of this kit. Sprue A Moulded in Eduard’s now standard medium grey plastic, the sprue contains the starboard fuselage half, port wing, an unused starboard wing for an E.III, propeller, engine, cowling, and tailplanes. As will all the sprues, everything is crisply moulded with barely any flash and no sink marks. Sprue B Similar to sprue A, this contains the port fuselage half, the starboard wing, ammo case, cockpit coaming, and rudder. (Plus unused items port wing, ammo box, engine, cowling & propeller – all useful items for the spares box.). Sprue C The largest of the sprues, this one contains the many smaller detail items. All of the cockpit items are provided here, including the tubular framework for the sides. The interior detail is extensive, covering the usual items such as the seat, control column, and rudder pedals, but also providing the fuel tank behind the pilot, the pressurisation pump, and the supporting framework for the engine on the rear of the firewall. Seatbelts are provided as decals as there is no etched fret with this kit. The complex undercarriage structure is neatly represented, with a logical breakdown of parts that make assembly comparatively straight forward. The wheels are supplied as completely separate hubs and tyres, which makes painting them so much easier. A tip here is to use white glue to put them together after painting. Any excess can be wiped off with a damp cloth, rather than risk spoiling the paintwork. Again, there are a number of items surplus to requirements, which can go in the spares box. Lovely moulded in detail on the cockpit floor; Sprue D A single item, the windscreen is supplied here. Cleanly moulded, and crystal clear. Decals. Sharply printed, with good colours and minimal carrier film, they look nice and thin. All the national markings are supplied, plus a number of smaller details. The under fuselage stitching looks interesting, I'll be interested to see how that comes out on the model. A word on rigging. The instructions provide a clear rigging diagram, showing where all the lines go. It is not as daunting as it might at first appear, and in many ways a monoplane like this is easier to do than a biplane. Basically there are 4 main lines that run from the central pylon, through a wing to the undercarriage assembly, then back up through the opposite wing, returning to the central pylon. With holes drilled through the wing, these lines can be done as single pieces using smoke coloured invisible mending thread and cyano glue. Smaller rigging lines can be made with heat stretched sprue, attached with white glue. Measure using dividers, cut the stretched sprue to length, pick up with tweezers and dip each end in a blob of white glue, and apply to the model. Nothing to be afraid of. This is one I made many years ago, not from this kit, but from the original Eduard plastic/etch kit of the1990's, issued by Flashback. It illustrates what i have said about the rigging though; Markings. A. Fokker E.II 68/15 flown by Lt. Brückmann, Armeeabteilung Gaede, Western Front, late 1915 to early 1916. B. Fokker E.II 69/15 flown by Lt. K. Crailsheim, Feldfliergerabteilung 53,Western Front, October 1915. Conclusion. This is another beautifully produced Great War kit from Eduard. It looks very good in the box, with fine and crisply moulded parts. The surface detail is particularly impressive on the fuselage components, both inside and out, and the fabric effect on the wings looks just right. Although I already have four of these kits in the stash, I have not yet got round to building one. Having built 30+ of Eduard’s various other 1:48 Great War kits, this one looks so well moulded that building it should be as good an experience as all the others. It is such an important aircraft that it really deserves a place in any collection. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of

Here's an intermediate built, the Eduard Bell X-1 Mach Buster. Although a relative older kit, it falls together like a charm. Maybe not too much detail, but the orange works very well in the cabinet. Hope you like.

BIG3882 Big Ed set for the Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII. Eduard 1:32 Newly released from Eduard is this 'Big Ed'package containing three of their previous sets for the Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII. They will be applicable to all four of the D.VII releases from Wingnut Wing (32607 Fokker D.VII early, 32011 Fokker D.VII, 32027 Albatros D.VII, and 32030 OAW D.VII). The individual sets are as follows. 32914 Fokker D.VII 1:32 Presented on an 8 x 7 cm brass sheet there are 42 distinctly numbered. Many of them occur multiple times, such as 17 part 7's (hinge details), 15 part 11's (turnbuckles) and others only once but using multiple parts, such as the throttle unit. There is no colouring or pre-painting as all the items (save the bezels) will be fitted before the model is primed. A number of bezels for to place over the instruments once the decals have been applied. (The best way to attach these is with Johnsons Kleer or clear varnish). There is a very finely etched throttle quadrant consisting of five parts. This should build up into a very nice little unit that will be better than its injection molded counterpart in the kit. The engine gets wiring from the magnetos to the distribution tube, and leads from the tube to each individual spark plug. The magnetos also get a surrounding strap. There is some detailing for the carburetor unit, a circular plate around the crankshaft, and a pair of 3D etched data plates that go on the crankcase. These should look really good with kit decals applied on top. The fuselage gets some small fittings for the control cable exit points, and some brackets where the lower wing mounts. These details are already molded on the kit fuselage halves, so will need scraping off. The idea is that the etched replacements have much sharper detail. Similarly there are inspection covers and scuff plates for the wings, and again the moulded kit items will require scraping off before the etched items are attached. There are also some extremely fine hinge details to fit on aileron and elevator hinge points. I'd suggest that Johnsons Kleer or white glue will be the best medium for attaching these. They are so small that cyano may well grip and lock them in place before you have had a chance to move them properly into position. There is very little rigging on the Fokker D.VII, but what there is gets some extremely fine little turnbuckles. These are for the fixed wires on the tailplane & undercarriage, and the control wires to the ailerons and elevator. Fortunately there are a few spares provided. The propeller boss gets new plates, front and back. Again, these will require that the existing kit detail is scraped off. The wheels are given new valve covers, in real life a small canvas flap that could be untied to give access to the tyre valve. Fokker, Albatros, and OAW all built the D.VII and each one had a different style of valve cover. These look like the Fokker version, so before you scrape off the valve covers, check that you have the same shape one as the etched part. Finally, the two LMG 08/15 Spandau machine guns get cocking levers, sights, a couple of brackets and etched jackets and front plates. These last two items are already supplied in etched brass in Wingnut Wings own kits. But they are not wasted,I recently trashed one of mine when rolling it to shape (I forgot to anneal it, and it split), so these make very useful spares. The Wingnuts MG's can be a little fiddly to assemble, but these ones look like they could be easier to do. You cut the muzzle from the barrel (kit part D13), assemble the etched jacket (part 1) & front plate (part 13), and then re-attach the muzzle to the front plate. 33176 Fokker D.VII seatbelts 1:32 All the Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII kits come with a set of etched brass seatbelts, but they are unpainted, plain brass. It is up to the modeller to prime and paint them. I don't have a problem doing this, but given the choice, I would go for a set of pre-painted belts as I simply cannot hand paint them to anything like the same standard. Eduards set provides the standard four point harness in a buff colour, with stitching detail and metal parts picked out in black. Simple, and perfectly done.Very often German Aircraft of this period were photographed with the two shoulder straps hanging outside the cockpit, ready for the pilot to climb in and strap up for a quick getaway. If you want to depict your model like this, then these will be far better than anything you can hand paint. I notice that the lap belts are different to those in the kit, in that they are anchored between the cushion and the side of the seat itself. This arrangement is actually photographed in the WNW instructions showing the Memorial Flight Associations D.VII, which is a very high standard replica. The kit has them anchored to the seat support frames, so both methods are likely correct. JX205 Fokker D.VII Masks 1:32. A simple little set of pre cut masks on kabuki tape. The outer 'hubs' of the Wingnut Wings kit come a separate parts, so that you get a nice easy demarcation when you paint the tyre and hubs separately. The inner faces though, are molded with the tyre and it takes a steady hand to get a neat paint demarcation. These masks will make that job so much easier. Likewise, the small windshield (masks are provided for both types) has a frame around it and requires a very steady hand, and any paint straying onto the glazed are will be very noticeable. This neat little set takes care of both those problems. Conclusion. Purchasing these very useful sets in one package makes sense from a cost and convenience point of view, and it provides pretty much everything you could want to enhance your D.VII. Given that the Fokker D.VII's seem to have been one of Wingnut Wings bestsellers, this package is bound to be popular and find it's way onto the many of the kits being built out there. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of

Just finished this one, build out of box, just a super kit , decals from OWL. Cheers Jes

USN Ensign Flag WW2 Steel 1:700 Eduard Eduard released a set of US Navy ensigns in 1:350 scale in the autumn. Now they have added a set for the more dextrous modeller in glorious 1:700. On the fret are two large and six small flags, each pre-painted and with small tabs to aid attachment. I'm not sure how easily these flags can be manipulated in order to give them a more 3d shape - at least without causing the paint to flake off - but they should still be better than decals. Review sample courtesy of

British 500lb Bombs (648368) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The British had a range of General Purpose bombs from 40lbs all the way up to 4,000lbs, with the 500lb unit being suitable for carriage either by single-engined aircraft in the ground attack role, or in large quantities in the belly of dedicated bombers in the area bombing role. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. Inside the box are four bomb bodies on separate pouring blocks, four aerodynamic rear fairings and four more stabilising fins that slot into the rear of the bomb. Additionally there are fuses for the nose, with Photo-Etch (PE) ring behind it, and a small PE spinner at the rear of the fins. The painting diagram gives Gunze Sangyo colour call-outs, and a small sheet of decals provides the stencils and designation bands to finish off. You can build four bombs from the box, as you'd probably already guessed! Review sample courtesy of

Hello Everyone, This is my latest completed model of the Hellcat Mk.I in Royal Navy colours in 48th scale by Eduard. This is also my first submission on the RFI forum so I hope you like it.

Really enjoyed building this, the Eduard 1/72 Bf 110E. It's the Profipack version so lots of coloured PE for the cockpit, and I also added the Brassin gun-nose and wheels. The fit of the engine nacelles to wing is well documented but it just takes a bit of filing to get a decent join. I liked this kit so much I've just ordered the G-4 version.

After the Bf.109E-1/E-3 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998486-148-messerschmitt-bf109e-1e-3-over-spain-eduard-plastic-by-ak-interactive-released/) and the Spitfire IXc ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998485-148-supermarine-spitfire-mkixc-late-foreign-service-rebox-eduard-by-ak-interactive-released/), AK Interactive is has just reboxed the Eduard "Fishbed" as 1/48th MIG-21PFM "Fisbed-F" Days of Glory and Oblivion - ref.AK148003 Source: http://ak-interactive.com/v2/?product=mig-21-pfm-days-of-glory-and-oblivion V.P.

Good night guys, This could very well be my first Eduard kit, but I would like to know what construction tips could some of you give me to make this build as pain free as possible. I´ve read several reviews, most state how detailed the kit is and how well it looks when finished, but only two point out which areas requiere extra attention to avoid ruining the model (for example, attaching piece K20 before gluing the wing spar). The model would be built with everything closed up (I thought of not adding the guns, cutting the muzzles and gluing them after the model is painted). I would also use the instructions of the Profipack version since they´re more complete and have the camouflage scheme in full colour. The model in question. Thanks.