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This is the first aircraft model kit that I have completed since I was a kid. I normally do ship models. Lots of mistakes and errors but had loads of fun doing it. Built straight out of the box. But added some paper surgical tape to the wings and fuselage to try and create a more authentic finish that more closely resembles linen. Also scratchbuilt propeller from 0.5mm pear veneer. Rigging made from elastic thread with turnbuckles from 0.1mm wire with 0.5mm steel tubes. The case is a $7 candle holder from Kmart.

I've been building this one since I finished the review you can find here, and used some of the many aftermarket sets that we got at the same time to bump up the detail a little. Painted with Gunze Sangyo Aqueous paints, and using the kit decals with their peel-off carrier film, which I'm sold on. From memory, here's a list of the AM I ended up using: 648777 Cockpit Set 648768 Wheels Late 648779 Bronze Gear Legs 648766 Exhausts & Gun Barrels I used a very time-consuming painting method that I'm sure has been tried by lots of other folks before, but it needs quite a bit of patience in un-gumming the airbrush in between sessions, painting each panel and in-between the rivet lines separately with a slightly lightened shade of the base coat. Takes some time and gives you a neck ache, and although it works on these dirty, faded subjects, would probably be useless on a clean aircraft TBH. You can see the work in progress in the WIP area Here's a bunch of pics I took: Spot the two little holes! I had a lot of fun, and the detail is phenomenal OOB, and even better with the extras I used. I can't wait to see what's next from Eduard

Hi, There are a couple of posts describing the conversion of combining various kits to end up with a Mk XIV high back. I am lacking the Spitfire knowledge despite reading through the various builds here on BM and P.B. on YouTube etc. to confidently build an accurate XIV. There is also a reasonable possibility that if I don’t post it as a WIP on BM, it may not be finished at all and keep lingering in it’s boxes. So here we go: Probably no surprise but the bases are the Eduard Mk VIII weekend ed. and the Airfix FR Mk XIV. In my naivety, I think below should probably accomplish the construction of the MkXIVc Highback. 1. Mostly use the fuselage of the VIII which should fit nicely in the: 2. C-Wing of the VIII 3. Using the bigger Airfix underwing air scoops 4. possibly filling in some fuselage panels on the port side and scribing a new panel on the Eduard starboard side 5. Use the nose and prop from the Airfix kit and attach it to the Eduard Mk VIII fuselage 6. Use the entire tail section of the Airfix kit As I write this I have a feeling that my assumptions are already wrong and I have cut off the wrong sections and made a complete hash of it, but perhaps not. 🤞 The bases To my surprise after trying to figure out how to correctly scale and print a drawing, the outlines all match up. (Making sure everything will be aligned ok) The question is what to do with the fuselage panels? Use the air intakes from the Airfix kit: Any feedback confirming or pointing out flaws in my build assumptions are very welcome. If successful I may finish it as a MkXIVc in RAF 322 Squadron markings. It will not be a fast build as I will start work on my RF-101 Voodoo and continue on my ship build as well. At least, that is the plan. May do a WIP on both. Anyway, that’s all, Thanks for watching, Rgds, Rob

Hi all, Just getting back to modelling as I’ve recently moved house and got my new workshop up and running (I’ve added a few pics 😀). I’ve so missed having a modelling space! I saw Brett’s review of the Brassin engine for this on Hyperscale and was so taken with the detail I had to order one and the associated Eduard S-199 - not a kit I would naturally be drawn to. The Brassin set is nothing short of spectacular in this scale, I’m not sure it’s turned out exactly how I wanted it. I’d be tempted to build another (maybe the two seat trainer?). I’m never happy at the end of a model! It does require a little surgery of the fuselage and cockpit, but not too bad. Anyway, here she is… And the raw parts… And my new man cave! 😊 Thanks for looking in, Guy

Just your basic Eduard kit, not much drama. Painted with Tamiya, a 3:2 mix of XF-18 Medium Blue/XF-2 Flat White for the PRU Blue undersides

Eduard is to rebox with add ons the Revell 1/48th MRCA Tornado GR Mk.1 "Gulf War/Desert Babe" kit - ref. 11136 Expected in March 2020.Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/eduard-pressekonferenz-in-nuernberg/ V.P.

Greetings from Italy. Just finished the Eduard bf110 C in a strange unusual scheme as a mix of german and italian insigna. This model represents one of the few bf110 operated as night fighter by Regia Aeronautica "235^ Squadriglia" based at Lonate Pozzolo airport in early 1943. This airport was about 40 km North West of Milan and now is still in use but better known as Milan Malpensa (MXP). The Edurd kit is very nice but I would say not for beginners. Painting has been done usign Gunze colours and spray finishing. Weathering is a mix of oil wash and pastels. Decals are from the italian brand Tauro Models. Enjoy pictures and please feel free to comment. Cheers Andy

#21/2022 One of my dad´s rare excursions to WW1 and another addition for our Austrian homeland collection. Eduard kit oob, elastic thread for rigging, wings painted with a light gray and Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan, fuselage painted with a waterpaint. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235113436-imperial-days148-oeffag-albatros-diii-kuk-luftfahrtruppen/ On July 31st 1918 an order was issued to change the shape and position of the cross markings on all Austro-Hungarian aircraft. Model shows an Oeffag Albatros, Serie 253, Flik 63/J (Fliegerkompanie 63/Jagd), Portobuffolé/Italy in September 1918. Oeffag Albatros 1:1 rebuilt with original Austro-Daimler engine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml1a8WTKelo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY6tbyOwdxw together with a 1:1 rebuilt Hansa Brandenburg C.I with original Austro-Daimler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vp4Zls5sRLw DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0024 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Sukhoi Su-27K (for Minibase) 1:48 Eduard Minibase blew us away with their Su-33, and since then they’ve brought out the Su-27K Sea Flanker which also has a ton of detail. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, and here are couple for your attention. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1286) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as a set of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles between the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX872) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a mask for the bare metal area around the cannon that’s mounted in the wing root, landing lights and the dielectric panels at the base of the twin stabilisers. Masks Tface (EX873) Supplied on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Having now used them myself in action, they give an impressively realistic look to your model’s canopy. Review sample courtesy of

After a longer WW1 pause, my dad starts a new project, making an attempt on a third Oeffag Albatros for our homeland collection. DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr planned scheme DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Hello Unusually this time I built a 1/48 kit with this Eduard Supermarine Spitfire Mk VIII I was offered. Among the different scheme available in #8284 I chose JF330 flown by AVM Harry Broadhurst in Africa in 1943. I can say that Eduard kits are very easy to assemble and I this scale it is all the most effective. Patrick

This is my entry to the group build. I tried and failed with another group build in the past so hopefully this time it will go better I'll be able to finish. The one I am going for is the Manx Air Races one to comply with the theme of the group build. Looks like this plane won the race in 1937. Apparently this is the B variant according to the instructions and this is what Wikipedia says about this variant. "Bf 108B Revised version, built from late 1935. The prototype had a Siemens-Halske Sh 14A radial, but production machines used the 240 PS (237 hp, 177 kW) Argus As 10C or the 270 PS (266 hp, 199 kW) Argus As 10E. A quadrant-shaped rather than rectangular rear window, tailwheel replacing skid, revision of shape of empennnage and removal of tailplane upper bracing." This is the weekend edition with no extras so hopefully will be an easy build. The whole idea really is finishing the build as I have not finished a model for years now. 😅

I'd just like to say that whoever was responsible for the choice of that horrible "Lord of the Rings"-style typeface on the box should be shot. Really. This is going to be yet another Special Duties Lysander. I'd like to build John Nesbitt-Dufort's all-black Lysander from 138 Sq., famously pranged in a French ditch (and then destroyed by a train) in January 1942. Tail number was T1508, squadron code would have been NF, but I don't know the aircraft letter, or how the plane might have been marked--photographs don't seem to cover the necessary parts of the fuselage. So there's a problem ahead. So far, I've got to the stage of assembling "largest paintable units" of interior detail, using Eduard's photoetch. Above are all the bits that needed gluing together or modifying at this stage. The tray seat came together fairly easily, and will be painted and weathered a bit before the photoetch harness goes on. I built myself a little rudder bar assembly, rather than just tacking the photoetch rudders on to the cockpit floor, as the instructions require. This was mainly because I want a slight rudder offset. A little bit of wiring, made from stretched sprue, on the visible rear surface of the instrument panel. I gathered my wires into two bundles, because a lot of this wiring seems to join a couple of cable runs on either side of the cockpit. And of course the vexed rear compartment. I've elected to make it very stripped-down. Here's the extended flooring and the plywood bench, made from styrene sheet: I also removed the gun-related fittings from the rear compartment cover. For the radio stowage, I've come down heavily in favour of the sliding shelf discovered by @dnl42: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235057615-lysander-iiia-sd-161-squadron/page/2/ This makes sense to me in terms of creating space for people, luggage and supplies in the cramped rear space. Given that it will be out of sight, I've done nothing to represent it in modelling terms except to provide the rails on which the shelf would slide, which will be partially visible in the completed model. I'm not sure about the armour plating behind the pilot. Given the need to reduce weight, and the the nature of these missions, I'm currently planning to omit it. But I'd love to hear from anyone who thinks otherwise!

Yak-9T Upgrade Sets (for ICM) 1:32 Eduard We reviewed the new large-scale ICM Yak-9T in July of this year, which you can see here. It’s a lovely piece of plastic engineering and has a good-looking instrument panel, but you can always improve on unpainted styrene. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's 3D printed SPACE and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL32008) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This is the first set of this kind I’ve seen in 1:32, and it looks GOOD. The Photo-Etch (PE) sheet contains a full set of pre-painted seatbelts and a mass of levers and toggles that are applied to the instrument panel and side consoles. The decal sheet doesn’t have a high part count, but it’s a single seat fighter, so that’s not surprising. The most impressive decal is the instrument panel, which has relief all over its surface, and a handful of crisp dials with glossy surfaces imitating the glass lenses. A peculiar little gaggle of instruments are glued on a raised portion in the top left of the panel, and I want to say it’s the oxygen system due to the blue dial. Some of the levers and toggles are applied to the panel, and you will of course have to remove the kit’s moulded-in detail before applying the decals. The narrow side consoles are also relieved of their details before applying the replacement decal that will conform to the shape of the panel, and once the glue has set, both sides are festooned with levers, a couple of regulators get tops and toggle switches are inserted into the decals. The kit’s trim-wheel is retained and projects through a slot in the console. In addition, a pair of raised panels are attached to the vertical surfaces, then at the rear on the “parcel shelf” an instrument box (looks like the radio) is given a nicely painted surface with horrible yellow and grey shades – ick! The final two parts are a pair of replacement fuel gauges that are recessed into the wing in view of the pilot, with a lovely glossy surface. P.S. I’ve just noticed that the 3D printed decal sheet has 1:72 printed on it as the scale. The joys of copy & paste in our digital age, eh? I can assure you however, than the instrument panel decal is almost as large as a wing in 1:72, so there’s no doubt this is 1:32, just ignore the typo. Masks (JX293) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort, plus a couple of masks for the wing-mounted fuel gauges. Masks Tface (JX294) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Conclusion With the cockpit glazing beautifully clear thanks to the masks, the rest of the cockpit really cries out for some super-realistic decals for the instruments and so forth. It would be churlish not to Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Halberd Models has just announced for October 2022 a 1/48th Piper Enforcer conversion set for the Eduard's P-51D or F-6D/K kits. Source: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid02Dy9kejba5QXzYbgJxvHXk1r2H1aEbMWF5tsfj4NKZJLz6sCyyLmW5vDhfjgfxwzrl&id=100064057054695 ] V.P.

Yak-9D Upgrade Sets (for Zvezda) 1:48 Eduard The Zvezda Yak-9D in 1:48 has arrived on the shelves, and it’s a very competent kit that has lots of detail out of the box thanks to modern injection moulding technology and some clever engineers. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner using different media to do so. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Upgrade Set (491300) Two frets are included, both nickel-plated and pre-painted. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the rear cabin are in full colour, with a floor skin for the rear; ejection seat details with pull-handles, spine details and seatbelts, plus three four-point seat belts for the rear crew are also supplied. The first action is to add a wiring bundle that snakes across the oddly shaped cockpit floor, then adds a pair of straps to the rudder pedals so that your miniature pilot’s feet don’t slip out of the stirrups under G. An instrument box on the rear shelf is given a pre-painted front, then the two sidewalls, which are essentially the fuselage’s structural framework are detailed with new parts, levers and shallow side consoles that are rather chunky as supplied in the kit. The instrument panel is transformed by using the blank panel that Zvezda thoughtfully included in the kit, and applying three layers of pre-painted PE and a number of levers to create a superbly detailed panel with glossy clear dials, plus a tiny ring sight on the minimalist cockpit coaming. Outside the cockpit, the main gear legs are detailed with hoses, plus another short length on the centre of the hub, while the tail wheel first has its bay skinned with side walls and a perforated roof, and a pair of new bay doors. In the wing tops, remote fuel gauges are inserted flush within depressions on the skin, and underneath in the gear bays, a wiring loom is draped across the roof of the large circular section. The rest of the set is taken up in creating the flaps and their bays for this Soviet fighter. The bays are made from a folded up outer skin, with double-thickness ribs inserted into slots in the bay roof, after which they are used as a template to thin down the trailing edge of the upper wing, and cut out the lower surface to be replaced by the new flaps. Each flap is constructed in the same manner, by twisting and folding over the attached ribs to create a 3D shape and folding up the corrugated rear, with extra strips folded and added along the way, a scrap diagram showing how the finished article should look from the side. The bays glue to the inside of the upper wing and the flap attaches to the rear wall of the new bay. Repeat this for the other side, and you're done. They’re very effective, and having the separate flap makes masking easier. Zoom! Set (FE1200) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1301) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. This set includes an inverted V-shaped pair of shoulder belts, plus separate lap belts, all of which have large silver adjustment holes running down their lengths. Masks (EX889) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX890) Supplied on a larger sheet/two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of

Hi my friends, During last south hemisphere summer I built this nice kit by Eduard. Good fit in general, not the recent Eduard standard, but after all a decent P-39. Only issue were the cockpit's doors. I tried to keep the left one closed as the records of war time use to describe, but the transparent separates piece didn't fit OK the fuselage, so I kept them open. I always like to add pilot figures to my kits, and for this Airacobra I used a USAAF Tamiya pilot (I name him 'Lio Messi', as his face resemblance the argentine idol, lol). Used Lio Messi also on my last 'Flying Tiger" P-40B. The cammo on this particular unit, the 46th FS, part of the 15th Pursuit Group, was used in the spring of 1943 when the fighter were deployed to Kanton Atoll in the Phoenix archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. Due to the conditions on the island, almost completely lacking vegetation, new Airacobras were repainted in the combination of the sand color on the upper and side surfaces while the lower surfaces were sprayed in light blue. Cheers to all, happy modelling! Cris.

Spitfire F Mk.XVIII Upgrade Sets (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard We reviewed this new boxing of the Spitfire in May here, which featured the cut down fuselage, bubble canopy and powerful Griffon engine that allowed to continue in service long after its heyday during the Battle of Britain. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491296) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panel sections with the typical raised centre section a separate part, plus a small section on the right side, which is applied after removing the kit details. The bundle of cables down the left side of the footwell frame are removed and replaced by PE parts, with a perforated carrier for the compass supplied to receive a 2.6mm slice of rod with a painted PE top to finish it off. The rudder pedals are also replaced by a pair of detailed parts including the straps on top and a raised lever in front. The control column is given a PE firing button, and behind the pilot’s head a triangular head armour plate is attached to the front of the seat frame, with brackets to support a length of 0.4mm rod or wire in the centre. The cockpit sidewalls are decorated with a large number of upgrade parts on both sides, making it a much more realistic affair. The gunsight is replaced with a PE part that has its glass replicated by a piece of acetate cut from the small printed sheet that is also included in the set. The crew access door can be cut out of the side of the fuselage along it panel lines then replaced by a two-layer PE door that has a crowbar and locking mechanism added, glued to the fuselage by a narrow folded hinge. Just don’t you dare paint that crowbar red, or the purists will have you. The canopy has a closure fitted above the pilot’s head, and an oval eye through which a small kit part protrudes in the deck behind him. Externally, the twin radiator fairings under the wings are stripped of most of the rear cooling flap, with a new folded PE part glued inside the remainder, bracing struts and an actuator rod allowing it to be fitted into the back of the fairing along with a pair of skins for the radiator surfaces, depicting the intricate mesh that allows the heat exchange to take place. The chin intake has a flap and mesh insert added, the rudder actuator is removed and replaced with a PE strip, as are the trim tab actuators on the elevators. Inside the main gear bays a couple of small panels are fixed to the curved surfaces, then the legs are overhauled with new oleo-scissors and tie-down lugs, together with a brake hose and two-layer captive bay door. Under the wing trailing edge, a pair of hooks in surrounds are glued into place, and the tail wheel bay received a single part that folds into three to depict the bay and two doors, with an actuator strut between them attached to the retractable leg. Zoom! Set (FE1296) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48082) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set has a two-layer decal instrument panel glued over the recently stripped back kit panel, with a small angled sub-panel in the bottom right consisting of a PE backing that holds two decals. The rudder pedals are replaced by detailed PE parts with foot straps at the top, and a perforated frame is made up to contain a compass made from a slice of 2.6mm rod from your own stocks, and a circular decal with the compass face on it. Behind the pilot’s head a triangular head armour part is attached to the front of the seat frame, with brackets to support a length of 0.4mm rod from your own stock in the centre. The twin shoulder belts on the PE sheet slot through the head armour while the two lap belts are slung over the sides, making sure that you apply the beautifully printed pencil quilted back cushion first, replacing the kit detail and looking very much like leather. The cockpit side walls are upgraded with a serious number of decals and PE parts to give the interior a much more realistic and cluttered impression with little in the way of removal of kit details. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1297) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as a sets of four-point crew belts, you also get a representation of the “towel rail” that supported the shoulder straps away from the sharp edges of the head armour through which it passed. Masks (EX885) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort, wingtip lights and landing light for good measure. Masks Tface (EX886) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of

My finished build of what I found to be a great kit, thoroughly enjoyable and excellent out of the box. First kit painted with SMS and hugely impressed with the finish and performance of this Lacquer range. Another first for me was tackling the carrier film on the Eduard decals and after a nervy start very please with the final result. Thanks for looking

F/A-18F Ejection Seats & Wheels (648775 & 648776) 1:48 Eduard Brassin We recently reviewed the first batch of aftermarket from Eduard for the new Meng F/A-18F here, and now we have a second tranche, including wheels and a delightful pair of ejection seats, all highly detailed and pretty much drop-in replacements. As is now usual with Eduard's medium resin sets, they arrive in a shallow cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. The smaller sets are supplied in flat resealable packs with the instructions wrapped around the protective card inserts within. Ejection Seats (648775) The two seat Super Hornet carries its pilots on a pair of Martin Baker Mk.14 seats, and those seats are replicated in exceptional detail in this boxed set. Arriving in two Ziploc bags, the first bag contains two each of the main seat components, cushions and umbilical between the pilot and aircraft. The other bag has a small fret of brass Photo-Etch (PE) that depicts the anti-flail leg restraints that tighten in the event of ejection, a full set of four-point crew harnesses in pre-painted brass, plus the stripey pull-handles that initiated the process between the pilot’s knees, and additional loops and controls on the side of the seat pan. The decal sheet includes three stencils per side of each seat, one of which is a stripey rectangle that is wrapped around the alternative ejection handle on the right side of the seat pan. Paint codes are given using Gunze codes for acrylic and lacquer, and stencil decal placement is shown on a pair of diagrams on the instruction booklet. Wheels (648776) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set includes two main wheels with separate rear hubs that have copious brake detail moulded-in, plus two nose wheels, all of which have fabulous detail on the side walls, circumferential tread on the contact patches, and a minimal amount of sag in the bottom of the tyre where the weight of the aircraft makes itself visible. This is also where the casting block is attached to each wheel, so once cut off, it just needs to be flatted off and doesn’t affect the tread. Painting is eased by the inclusion of a sheet of pre-cut kabuki tape masks (not pictured) that will allow you to cut the demarcation between wheels and tyres with little effort. Conclusion A fabulously well-detailed pair of resin and PE sets that will add extra detail to an already excellent kit. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

P-38J Upgrade Sets (for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Tamiya’s new releases of the P-38F/G then H and later J variants has well-and-truly kicked the Academy kit off the number one spot in 1:48 for the most part, the J having been release in 2022, thereby triggering Eduard’s latest efforts. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), small Brassin, SPACE and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491294) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass, plus a small printed piece of acetate sheet. The sidewalls are first relieved of much of their moulded-in detail, to be redecorated with a substantial set of new parts to replace and augment the detail that is there. This includes the throttle quadrant, which has a garden of levers sprouting from both sections, plus more of the instruments that are dotted about the cockpit, and even an insert that is applied to the head of the control column. The gunsight is stripped of its thick clear styrene glass, and is refitted with a PE frame and a piece of acetate cut from the sheet. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and replacement rudder pedals are fitted to the kit panel after removing the original details, with even more instruments and details placed in every nook and cranny. The pilot’s seat is replaced entirely by a new PE unit, which also has a pair of cushions, requiring only a minor alteration to the frame it sits on. Moving to the engine nacelles, the gear bays are upgraded with new ribbed PE parts inside the bulkheads, a two-layered circular grille over the intakes under the prop, and a backing panel that covers the kit detail on the central intake deep inside the boom. Two large radiator fairings on each side of the tail booms are also given two-layer grilles to detail their interiors, with another circular grille and an intake on each side of both nacelles just under the exhaust outlets. The final parts involve removing all of the oleo-scissor links from the three gear legs, and replacing them with folded PE parts, plus additional details on the main gear struts. Zoom! Set (FE1294) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48081) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. On the PE sheet is a set of pre-painted seatbelts for the pilot, with a comfort pad under the buckles, plus a lot of instrument box faces; rudder pedals; levers for the controls; circular bases for winders that require some 0.3mm rod sections from your own stock to complete. More details for the black boxes and a pre-painted frame for the gunsight glass are also included. The decal sheet has a gorgeous instrument panel replacement, plus stencils and all manner of instrument surfaces to give your cockpit the ultimate in detail. Externally, there are beautiful glossy printed identification lights that you will find four of each in green and red for the port and starboard wingtips, plus four more in blue for the sides of the tail fins, with all the kit lumps requiring removal before you can replace them with these super-realistic decals. Wheels (648782) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set includes one nose wheel with separate spoked hub caps to be inserted into the centres along with optional PE discs to hide away all that beautiful detail, which seems a shame. The two main wheels have an outboard hub, plus the same bland disc that covers them if you really have to for accuracy. The nose tyre has oval tread and the main gear a diamond tread, with a small sag at the bottom where they join the casting block, and a set of kabuki tape masks (not pictured) to cut the demarcation neatly between tyres and wheels with little effort. A scrap diagram shows a method for removing the flash between the spoke of the hubs and in the middle of the nose gear wheel, using a cocktail stick or something similar to push it out toward the inside. I use the tip of a #11 blade myself, but it’s time consuming and there will be blood. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1295) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as a set of crew belts, you also get a comfort pad that sits under the buckles to prevent chaffing of the pilot’s general areas. Masks (EX883) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels (including the out-riggers), allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX884) Supplied on a larger sheet/two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Conclusion A great bunch of sets to augment a great kit of a great aircraft that I just happen to be watching a documentary about as I type this. Spooky. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Coyote TSV Update Set (36489 for Hobby Boss) 1:35 Eduard We reviewed this new kit from Hobby Boss here a couple of months ago, and it’s a nicely detailed kit of the British Army’s modern armoured support vehicle. This Photo-Etch (PE) detail set from Eduard is designed to improve on the detail that’s available in the kit, taking advantage of the thin etched brass to make in-scale parts. The set arrives in an A5 sized resealable clear foil bag, and consists of a single large fret of brass that is filled with a host of goodies. Two large skins are supplied for the inner sides of the main load area, and the undersides of the rear wheel wells are similarly skinned with a new part each, which also has a replica of flexible rubber “frill” that helps to keep the dust and aggregate from kicking up when in motion. When the glue is dry, you are advised to push the edges to give it a more organic look to better replicate the real rubber, so check your references if you’re unsure how they should look. A similar wheel arch insert with simulated rubber edges is supplied for the front arches too. The front of the vehicle and centre section stowage boxes between the cab and load area is covered with tie-down loops, all of which are removed and replaced with new PE parts with better detail. The running boards down the side of the vehicle have PE mesh included in the box, but the replacements in this set are more defined and to be honest, more capably etched. The seatbelts for the crew will stop them from getting thrown clear of the vehicle at the first bump, and four sets are included for all the crew, then the same courtesy is afforded to the big .50cal ammo cans around the gunner’s platform, which are lashed down on trays that are absent from the kit, so you’ll need to cut off the pins for the ammo boxes, glue the trays in place, then add the ammo boxes back, lashing them down if you wish. Another tray for a ready ammo can is included for the gunner’s ring, which again fits in place over the two locating pins once they are removed. The rear of this platform is covered with pioneer tools, all of which get new clasps after a short chop to remove the chunky mouldings. Next to these tools, a box is skinned over to include a mesh panel in the centre that is missing, as is a circular part on the floor behind it. A couple of weapon lashing points are added to the other side of the hump. The kit includes a large single part to represent a stowage box that is fixed to the A-frame door on the starboard side of the vehicle, and most of this part is removed, leaving the narrow top section to be reused. A new lower section is made up from PE panels, with internal load crates that have tie-down straps across their fronts. Lashings for a spade are added to the underside, then the top section of part D58 is glued atop the new assembly to complete it, giving the area much better scale authenticity. On the opposite side of the vehicle the similar framework “door” carries the spare tyre, which is fitted to its mount with a new PE bracket and large retaining nut for extra detail. The crew cab doors are detailed with additional small parts too, with the work duplicated on both sides, and new wire-cutters replacing the chunky kit mouldings on the sloped front roll cage around the cab. On the sides a pair of “shopping bags” made from strapping are made up from the etched parts on the fret, looped through itself and fitted on the two positions on the right side of the vehicle, adding some contents if you feel the need. At the rear of the Coyote, the two extensions that overhang the rear of the vehicle’s light clusters are replaced by a new PE pair, with mounts for the kit’s grenade dispensers with a more realistic hollow underside and scale thickness. The last area to be detailed is the antenna forest that is carried over the stowage in the middle of the vehicle behind the drivers. The kit platform is slightly incorrectly positioned, so it is replaced by a new assembly that consists of a flat top surface that has double-folded edges for strength, and is further stiffened by adding cross-braces and C-section stringers to the underside. On the flat top surface, an additional sensor is made from 2mm rod from your own stock with a circular base, and some of the other kit antennae are also placed on raised “washers”. This is then fixed to the two supports as shown on the final diagram. Conclusion A very comprehensive upgrade set for what is already a nice kit. The extra detail will definitely set your model aside from all the others. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

F4F-3 Wildcat Life Raft (648770 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Just when you thought it was safe to back in the water (quite literally in the case of this set). More aftermarket for the new tool Wildcat from Eduard, and this is the second wave of aftermarket sets that they have released for those that want to increase the level of detail over and above what’s achievable using injection moulded styrene. As is now usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in a deep Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This set is an unusual one, and will doubtless appeal immediately to anyone that has a hankering to open up some panels, or anyone crazy enough to want to build a ditching diorama with a Wildcat in the drink and sinking as the pilot absconds with his dinghy. Inside the two Ziploc bags are ten 3D printed parts, plus a small fret of bare Photo-Etch (PE) in its own bag with a card protector. The instructions are wrapped around the parts to protect them, and are accompanied by two sheets of foam due to the delicate nature of some of the parts. For once, the instructions don’t detail the removal of the areas of the fuselage with their usual red-outlined drawings, but looking at the fuselage halves currently in my spray booth shows that it’s a very simple task to identify where to make the cuts. Work inside the panel lines and fine-tune the cut-out until your new bay part fits snugly, and the two hatches fit without looking sloppy. With the bay in place, you can choose to put the two bags inside and strap them down with some wires from your own stock, and add a small eyelet to the front of the bay. Your other option is to leave the bay empty apart from the afore mentioned wires draped over the edge of the bay, because Eduard have thoughtfully included a full dinghy in black 3D printed resin, which is finished off by adding a PE seat across the middle, and a pair of rollocks on the sides. A gas cylinder is placed at an angle across the bow in a shallow recess, and you can choose where you’d like to position the two oars, depending on what you intend to do with your dinghy. Finishing off the adaptation of your kit includes placing a narrow spine stringer down the centre and then gluing the doors in the opened position. I now need another Wildcat, and the skills to create a ditching diorama. Damn! Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hi all, Here is my latest Spitfire Mk.Vc built as Eric Gibbs' BS164 personal aircraft. This is the Profipack edition of the Eduard kit in 1/48 with some 3d printed details added. The most important addition was De Havilland Hydromatic airscrew, which I couldn't find in any of Eduard's boxings. The entire undercarriage has also been printed. No colour photos of this aircraft have surfaced, so it is hard to say what camouflage was used on this Spitfire. I chose Foliage Green + Earth Brown over Sky Blue, because it seems to match the tonal differences seen on the black and white photos. I used exclusively Mr. Paint lacquers. If anyone has access to a 3d printer with 4K resolution or better (I used Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K), I have uploaded 3d models of all the parts I used in STL format. The link to the zip file with all STLs is at the end of the build article (unfortunately in Polish only), which can be found here: https://pme.org.pl/2022/08/27/spitfire-mk-vc-trop-54-sqn-darwin-eric-m-gibbs/ Cheers, Tomasz

F4F-3 Cockpit w/Telescopic Gunsight (648765 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin But wait… there’s more! More aftermarket for the new tool Wildcat from Eduard, and this is the second wave of aftermarket sets that they have released for those that want to increase the level of detail over and above what’s achievable using injection moulded styrene. As is now usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in a deep Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This set will please those that want to model an earlier Wildcat with the simple telescopic sight that was fitted to the first aircraft off the production line. There are three Ziploc bags within the box, two containing directly 3D printed parts, the other containing a fret of nickel-plated pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE), and a small decal sheet, both protected by a small sheet of white card. On emptying the parts out of the bag, the first thing you notice is the sheer level of detail present, but also the relatively small parts count thanks to the capabilities of 3D printers, where supports are all that is required to protect overhangs, and there is no degrading of mould fidelity over time because there are no moulds to wear out. The short parts list is also evident immediately on viewing the instructions, which begin with an ostensibly complete aft cockpit assembly, to which you add the seat with painted PE lap belts only for the initial batch of airframes. The control column slips into a deep recess in the gaiter, some half-moon levers are added at the sides of the pilot, then the forward bulkhead with integral tank, plus a separate head cushion are mated to the cockpit. The side consoles are slotted between the two bulkheads with detailed painting guide and decal placement instructions to complete those, then a little wire from your own stocks is threaded through sections of the cockpit, and the kit bulkhead is brought in from behind. The beautifully detailed rudder pedals are a single part that is truly amazing to behold, and it too has its own painting instructions and two decals for the centre of the piece. The kit insert to the tank is slotted into the 3D printed part to complete it, and then you have a choice of how to complete the instrument panel, using a blank panel with two-layer PE dial sections plus some tiny levers, or a detailed printed panel to which you add a decal, or if you’re very brave, paint fully yourself. The small angled coaming with separate tubular gunsight is glued to the top of the coaming to finish off. The cockpit can then be inserted into the fuselage as per the kit instructions, but with a small resin part fixed to the starboard interior, and a pair of tiny pegs are removed from the styrene part. If you are a little anxious about removing the 3D printed parts from their printing bases, and having to deal with all those tendril-like fingers that hold them in place and support them during printing and curing, fret not. As it was the first time I had dealt with a completely 3D printed cockpit from Eduard, I took the precaution of removing the parts from their bases of the previously reviewed later cockpit and preparing them for assembly as part of my build. It didn’t take me long, as I used the new CMK Razor Saw set we reviewed a wee while ago here. I used the square blade chucked all the way over on the fine-toothed blade side, and once I’d cut the attachment points, I snapped off the fingers so I could work on the next side easily. Some parts you can just saw at the base of the supports, but it gets messy and you can’t quite see what you’re cutting. Here’s a quick pic of the mess I was making during the removal process, remembering it isn’t this set, but one very similar: After a little sanding of the forest of tiny ‘pimples’ that were left under parts and the more delicate parts being trimmed by a new #11 blade, the results were very pleasing. There are detailed painting and decaling instructions given throughout the leaflet, in Eduard’s usual Gunze Aqueous and lacquer ranges, using H and C codes respectively. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of