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Evening all, I've now completed my Stuka as per the following build thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998686-148-revell-junkers-ju87b-2-stuka/ It's the Revell boxing, built OOB save for Eduard fabric seatbelts (I'll revert to PE in future - I didn't get on so well with these to be honest) and an Eduard Brassin MG15 machine gun to replace the kit item. Paints are all Colourcoats, but I used Humbrol clear coats. The stencils and crosses were from the Revell decal sheet. The ID markings and nose art were from an old FCM Battle of Britain decal sheet, and the Swastikas were from Xtradecal. The aerial is Infini Model Lycra Rigging Line, Fine / 70 denier (0.091mm diameter). Sorry about the indoor photos, but the light is starting to fade and I wanted to post this tonight for personal reasons.

Started today, the new Revell FW190 with Eduard's Brassin cockpit Started with the cockpit, was going very well until I managed to ping one of the set of the long seat belts into the ether. However every 'oh drat' (PG-13 version) moment, has a silver lining. I've ordered a set of HGW Fabric Belts. Carried on with the cockpit though - the brassin cockpit is very very nice. Peter

F4U-1A Corsair Cockpit Set Brassin 1:32 Cockpit Set (632053) Having released numerous additional sets for the previously released F4U-1 Corsair, Eduard have now turned their attention on the newer F4U-1A version, starting with the cockpit. The set comes in a very well packed cardboard with the parts in several zip lock bags and prevented from being shaken around by two foam pads. There are fifty two resin parts in a mixture of medium and dark greys, plus one clear resin parts, a sheet of pre-painted etched brass and a sheet of unpainted photo etched parts,. The detail on the resin parts is quite amazing, being super sharp, with good depth, although some parts have small sections of flash which need to be removed on top of the removal from the casting blocks. The cockpit is literally a tub made up of the front and rear bulkheads, what would be the fuselage side walls and the lower fuselage interior, which has the lower windows in the need of flash removal. The kits interior rib detail needs to be completely removed to allow the fitment of the tub, which shouldn’t take too long with a nice sharp curved blade and some sanding sponges. The moulded detail on the bulkheads and inner fuselage parts needs to be seen to be believed, add to this all the smaller sundry parts and you will have a truly amazing cockpit. Yet the modeller will still need to add their own small wire parts for which the dimensions and shape are provided in the instructions. Painting of the parts, especially those pre-moulded will be a bit of a chore, but with care you will end up with something of a masterpiece which would be good on its own, let alone fitted to the model. The resin is further enhanced with the addition of the two sheets of etched parts, the pre-painted seat belts which are quite complex, but with care and attention will build into a pretty amazing representation of the real things, whilst the unpainted sheets contains a selection of brackets, levers and an alternative instrument panel for which an acetate sheet of instruments is provided. Conclusion The Tamiya F4U-1A Corsair is already an amazing kit with very few apparent problems or vices but the detail that this cockpit set delivers really will take it to the next level. Having said that, as with the previous kit, the cockpit in this model is already superb, and it makes one wonder if this additional set is really required. The level of detail and the superb moulding is really quite amazing, and with some careful painting and weathering it will look amazing. So, if you absolutely have to have every aftermarket release for your build then you will need this one. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Resin Munitions (4 sets) 1:48 Eduard Brassin One of Eduard's mainstays of their Brassin range is highly detailed weapons sets to hang under (or inside) your creations. To my eyes, they add buckets of additional realism and visual interest to a model, so are well worth a look when it comes time to start thinking about the loud-out for your latest creation. Here are a selection of the latest sets to feast your eyes upon. GBU-10 Paveway I (648171) Arriving in the oblong card box used on larger Brassin sets, there are resin parts sufficient to construct two "smart" Paveway I bombs, which have now been retired from active service in favour of the Paveway II with all manner of improvements. In the box you have two large bomb bodies on separate pouring blocks, eight steering vanes on two blocks, and four seeker heads on another block. The second set of seeker heads are supplied to depict the bomb with its protective FOD guard on, and whichever you choose, you will need to drill a 1mm hole in the back to accept the peg on the front of the bomb body. The steering vanes fit into recesses on the forward section of the bomb, and after that it is just a case of painting the bombs using the supplied diagram, and applying the decals from the small sheet that is included. Detail is superb, with flashed over mounting lugs that could be opened up with a small drill and steady hand, and as usual the casting is first rate. M117 Bombs Early & Late (648188 & 648189) The M117 "dumb" bombs were used as early as the Korean War, and these sets of six have three lengths of fuses supplied to go from contact to delayed anti-personnel "daisy-cutters". The only difference between early and late is the extended fins on the late that start right at the front of the aerodynamic fairing behind the bomb body. The fuses, body and stencils included with each set are identical. Constructing the bombs involves removing them from their casting blocks, gluing the fin to the body, and adding a choice of three fuses to suit your requirements. If you have trouble getting a nice square join between the front and back, try dishing the mating surfaces so that only the outer edges are touching. Painting and stencilling follows the included guide, and you will probably want to weather the bomb body a little to match your references. Early Late AGM-88B HARM (648180) This is the first upgraded HARM variant, with improved guidance and forward compatibility, used extensively in GW1. In the clamshell box you get two missile bodies on separate casting blocks, eight fins on two blocks, four adapter rails, each on separate blocks, a small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) and a decal sheet containing stencils. Two of each type of adapter rails are supplied depending on your application, so check your references to ensure you are using the correct one for your aircraft. The rear fins are moulded into the body, while the front steering fins are attached via recessed sockets in the sides of the missile. The rear is finished off with a PE ring depicting the exhaust, while the painting guide gives the correct colours and locations for all the stencils of missile and launch rail. Review sample courtesy of

B-17F/G Engines (for Monogram) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The old Monogram kit is of the B-17 is the only game in town if you're building in 1:48, and hails from an era where Monogram were churning out big bombers in this scale like they were going out of fashion. Alas, no longer and as such this kit is getting on a bit, but still a worthy purchase, although it does need some extra detail to bring it up to modern standards. This new set from Eduard's Brassin provides some of that, replacing the rather simplified kit engines with superb and super-detailed resin and Photo-Etch (PE) alternatives. In the long card box are four bags of resin and a bag of PE, with five sheets of PE plus a tiny sheet of decals. Each engine consists of a cylinder block, 18 resin push-rods, a PE front and back ring (you'll need to roll out the forward ring), then attach it and the kit's nacelle stub. You then place the cowling over the engine, assuming you're going to have the engines covered up of course. Detail is spectacular, with full ribbing inside the cowlings, the collector ring on the engine, and interior detail on the cowl-flaps. Scrap diagrams show the correct orientation of the cowlings, engine, and give colour call-outs for the whole engine assembly, which uses a surprisingly large number of colours, so will be fun to paint. The push-rods are separate resin parts, and you have only three spares, so be careful where you ping them while removing them from the pouring block. The bell-housing, prop governor and sump and parts of the engine fit at the front in keyed slots, and have additional fine PE parts to integrate them into the assembly. The bell-housing and front oil sump both have data plates attached to them, which are represented by decals from the small sheet. Conclusion A LOT of detail has been packed into this set, and that is reflected both in weight of the box, and the price. What you get makes it good value, and if you're looking for the ultimate in engine detail you have found it. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

F-104 Upgrades (for Hasegawa/Eduard/Italeri) 1:48 & 1:32 Eduard Brassin In 1:48 Hasegawa's F-104 is probably the best liked Starfighter in this scale, and In 1:32, the new Italeri kit has the benefit of being a more modern tooling than the previous Revell Monogram kit. Eduard have produced some neat replacement exhausts and wheels in both scales that have been marked "early" and "late" for your convenience. All sets arrive in the usual Brassin clamshell package with Photo-Etch (PE) or masks hidden between the instruction booklet that doubles as the pack insert. Exhaust Nozzles Early (648174) & Late (648175) in 1:48 These two sets allow you to portray the external differences between the earlier J79 engine, and the later models. "Late" applies to the engine only, and doesn't necessarily apply simply to one variant onwards, as some of the early models were re-engined later in their lives, so remember to check your references before deciding which engine to fit. If your engine was J79-11A onward, it's going to be the late version, otherwise, fit the early. The sets consist of an engine rear with bullet and stator blades moulded in, the exhaust trunking, PE afterburner ring that is inserted from the rear and affixed to a ledge inside the tube. Up until this point, the sets are the same but diverge here with the early having shorter exhaust petals with plenty of visible detail. The late petals are longer and more like the F-16's nozzles with smooth outer petals. Casting and detail throughout is superb, and of course there is no seam to hide away on the exhaust trunking. A pair of inserts are fitted to the insides of the fuselage before they are joined, after which the engine can be slid neatly inside the opening after painting. Early 648174 Late 648175 F-104 Wheels Early (648176) & Late (648181) in 1:48 These sets include replacement wheels with super-detailed hubs and tyres, plus a set of self-adhesive kabuki tape masks. The parts just drop into place on the kit axles, so other than removing them from their casting blocks, all you need to do is glue in the hubs being careful to align the small location tabs inside each one. The early set has a solid hub with holes drilled through, while the late set has spoked wheels main wheels, and a choice of spoked or dished nose wheels, the latter being achieved by using the appropriate part. Early 648176 Late 648181 Exhaust Nozzles Early (632043) & Late (632044) in 1:32 The larger exhaust sets have the same nozzle detail as the smaller sets, but they lack the exhaust tubes and engine faces, which would have been too large and heavy to mould for very little in the way of benefit to the finished item. Instead you get a two part exhaust nozzle that consists of an inner and outer portion, and once fitted together they're a drop-fit replacement for the kit parts. Detail is lovely, and construction should be a breeze, with minimal clean-up of the parts needed. As above, the early exhaust is shorter and more "industrial", while the later one has smooth outer petals. Early 632043 Late 632044 F-104 Wheels Early (632045) & Late (632046) in 1:32 As per the 1:48 offering, this set contains resin replacement wheels with separate hubs and a set of kabuki tape masks. Again, the early wheels are drilled, while the later are spoked, with separate hubs on the nose wheel to create the optional spoked or dished options. Early 632045 Late 632046 Review sample courtesy of

Tornado IDS Wheels (648159) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Revell's new(ish) Tornado IDS has landed, and to give it something nicer to stand on, Eduard have this new drop-in replacement set of wheels that give just the right amount of sag to the tyres, and improve the detail immensely. They arrive in Eduard's usual Brassin Clamshell, and inside you will find six pieces of resin on five pouring blocks. You are also provided with a set of wheel masks in yellow kabuki tape, which will allow you to spray the hubs a perfect circle once you've painted the tyres. The main wheels have separate rear hubs, which have fine brake detail moulded in, while the tyres have deep circumferential thread and the maker's mark and specification on the sidewalls. The slightly bulged contact patch is the location for the pouring gate, and this can be quickly removed for installation, avoiding the trials of removing the seam from the kit tyres. The twin nose-wheels are single parts with the same high level of detail, and correctly shaped holes to allow easy installation on the kit gear leg. Another superbly crafted set of replacement wheels from Eduard – highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Fw.190 Wheels Early & Late (648152 & 648150) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Eduard are the acknowledged masters of the Fw.190 in 1:48, and these update sets are for their own kit, to add detail to the wheels that are supplied in styrene, as well as obviate the tedious job of sanding the seams where the two halves meet. Both sets arrive in shallow Brassin clamshell boxes, protected by the usual grey foam. The backing paper doubles as the instruction sheet, and kabuki tape masks are slipped inside to allow easy painting. The wheels are each single parts with highly detailed hubs, thread patterns and maker's details on the sidewalls, way beyond what could be achieved in styrene. The fact that the maker was Dunlop will come as a shock to some, but the Irish company actually had a factory in Germany that supplied aviation tyres to the Luftwaffe during WWII. The casting blocks are sensibly moulded, with a central pour stub on the slightly flattened contact-patch, supported by wafer-thin out-riggers that should be easy to clean up. They are drop-in replacements for the kit part, and require very little work to install on the kit gear legs. The masks allow you to paint the hubs after the tyres, a task that fills some of us with dread, as it's not always easy to get a nice neat line. All you have to do is check your references to see which type of wheel you need – late or early. Early Late Review sample courtesy of

Mikoyan Mig-21PF Detail Sets Eduard/Brassin 1:48 Having just released the latest version in the series of Mikoyan Mig-21 in the shape of a PF, Eduard have also released a three Brassin sets to go with it. Although one of the sets can also be used for the PFM and R variants, so will be quite useful for the Limited Edition set where all three versions are represented as well as the individual Profipack and Weekend editions. Cockpit Set (648 144) Arriving in a top opening cardboard box, inside of which are a large number of parts, both resin and etched brass, surrounded by foam padding for complete protection. As is usual for these types of set the instruction sheet provides some of the clearest diagrams produced by Eduard/Brassin which help greatly in getting the most out of this set. There are thirty one resin parts in a mixture of medium and dark greys, plus one clear resin part, three sheets of etched brass, two of which are pre-painted. The detail on the resin parts is crisp and sharp and well up to the standard we have come to expect from Eduard-Brassin, even with their prodigious release schedule. This is particularly shown on the side walls of the single piece cockpit tub. The cockpit is made up of the cockpit tub which includes the two side walls, front and rear bulkheads, joystick, head-up display, new coaming, and rudder pedals There is also a choice of two instrument panels, on for use with the etched parts and one on which you could use instrument dial decals, such as those from Airscale. The multi-part ejection seat is a model in its own right and should produce one of the most detailed seats available especially when married up to the superb pre-painted seat straps, lap straps and leg restraints. The canopy also receives some detail in the shape of new rails and framing. But as is the way with these sorts of additions, some of the kit details need to be removed before the resin can be fitted, so take care when ready the instructions. The etched parts provide a good selection of levers and vents, plus circuit breaker panels, switch panels, joystick fittings, cockpit ledges and framework, plus canopy release latches and handles, and even includes a pilots helmet. Ejection Seat (648 145) If you don’t want the full monty of the cockpit set above, but would still like to have a really good looking and detailed ejection seat, then Eduard-Brassin have released this set just for you. It contains a lot of the parts in the cockpits set, but is slightly simplified in that the etch set isn’t quite so comprehensive and the number of resin parts is smaller. That said it will still give you an excellent seat for you model. Airbrakes (648 146) This set provides nice simple replacements for the kit airbrakes with all three being provided along with their actuators. They are barely attached to the moulding blocks so removal and clean-up should be simplicity itself. Being direct replacements no further work should be required. Conclusion Since the Mig-21PF has only just been released I was surprised that these sets beat it onto the market. But then there’s always the Limited Edition set that really needed some resin to be included. The cockpit set is truly amazing, especially in this scale and will benefit from some very careful painting whereas the separate seat is certainly good enough for a simple update to a model. Seeing that the airbrakes can be used with three variants they are certainly the more versatile. But I can quite happily recommend all three sets. All you have to do is decide which to buy. Review samples courtesy of

German 88mm and 105mm Guns 1:72 Eduard Brassin The resin aftermarket parts for the big Revell 1:72 submarines seems to have been fairly monopolised by CMK but now Eduard-Brassin have started to release some. The two sets we have been sent are for the submarines main guns, the 88mm for the Type VIIc and the 105mm for early Type IXs. Both sets are contained in the standard blister packs used by Brassin, with the parts well protected by foam inserts. The guns even in this scale are quite small, but are really well detailed with plenty of small fragile parts, so take care when removing from the moulding blocks and cleaning them up. 88mm [672 034]. Unlike some sets where only the barrel of a gun is changed, this pack contains not only the barrel, but the whole mounting. The resin parts include the pedestal, mount, breech bock, barrel mounted rangefinder and optical sights, elevation quadrant, elevation and turning wheel fittings, and the prominent crew waist supports. The small etched sheet contains the elevation and traversing wheels, fittings for the rangefinder, and the waist support mountings. There is a tampion and clamp to be fitted to the muzzle, which is missing the cable that could be seen attached to the tampion and wrapped around the barrel and connected to the gun mounting. 105mm [672 053]. The 105mm is very similar to the 88mm gun, which is natural, seeing as it’s the smaller weapons big brother. The parts are very similar too, providing as it does, the barrel, breech block, sights, waist supports, pintle, rangefinder plus accessories, and the gun mount/trunnion. The etched parts are also similar with the inclusion of all the traversing and elevation wheels, waist support mountings, and tampion. Again, the wire from the tampion to the mounting is missing, but at least the length and gauge of wire required is given. As always, check your references as from June 1943 the Atlantic-boats had landed the deck gun. Only in the Mediterranean and the Northern Sea boats kept their guns for a few months longer. In July 1944 some of the VIIc boats from the 8th Flotilla in Konigsberg got their guns back for the patrols in the Baltic Sea against the Russians. A number of Captains were also allowed to re-fit the deck gun when operating in the Indian Ocean. Conclusion It’s great to this pair of deck guns being released as not only does it give modellers the chance to improve on the kit details, but also backdate the Type IX to an earlier boat when they had deck guns fitted. These are superbly moulded with some very fine detail and will look great mounted on their respective submarines. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of

NATO Missiles & Guided Bombs (5 sets) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Eduard's Brassin line already has a good range of missiles both from the Allied forces, as well as Soviet originated munitions and WWII bombs to detail up your aircraft's war load, but that range has been expanded further recently with the following sets. All sets arrive in their familiar clamshell boxing, protected inside by foam backing, and with Photo-Etch (PE) parts if applicable held in its own section of the packet. Instructions form the backing card, with decals held in the centre for added protection. AGM-78 Standard ARM (648167) A development of the Shrike, the "Starm", as it became known was used in the late 60s and phased out in the late 80s, replaced by the AGM-88 HARM. This set includes parts for two missiles, the main body of one is hidden behind the foam, and once cut from their casting blocks, they are mated to the short exhaust section, and the four steering fins are added into circular depressions around the circumference of the body. After painting white with an optional red tip, the stencil decals are added as per the scrap diagram at the front of the short booklet. As they were used extensively in Vietnam under Phantoms carrying our Wild Weasel missions, they are a useful addition to your arsenal. Sorry about that pun! AGM-45 Shrike (648165) The precursor to the Starm, this missile was born by mating a new seeker head to the body of an AIM-7 Sparrow, and was used in Vietnam, and most famously (from a British point of view), by the Vulcans of the Black Buck missions over the Falkland Isles. There are parts for four missiles in the box, with each missile body needing only a set of forward fins and a PE exhaust ring adding to complete it. The supplied decals are applied after painting as per the accompanying scrap diagram on the front of the booklet. AGM-65 Maverick (648151) The Maverick is a close range Air-to-Ground missile that went into service in the early 70s and is still in the armoury at time of writing. From this set you can build a pair of either the B or E variants, which are the electro-optical and laser guided versions respectively. The main body has the forward stabilising fins moulded in, with only the rear fins and the exhaust added in a single moulding at the rear. The nose has either a piece of resin added in the recess and painted chrome, or a larger one for the laser guided option. The nose is then closed over with a highly polished clear resin dome, leaving the seeker heads visible within, for extra realism. The adapter rails for the missiles are included in the set, as are all the banding and stenicling you'll need after painting the missiles either white for the B, or a choice of grey or olive drab for the E. You can also model the D or H without alteration to a B, as they were only upgraded with new imaging systems and reduced smoke rocket motors. AIM-9D Sidewinder The D variant of the ubiquitous Sidewinder short-range Air-to-Air missile was the first major production type for the US Navy, and was used extensively on Phantoms and Crusaders. This set contains parts for four missiles, the body and rear fins of which are moulded as a single part. The forward steering vanes are separate parts that locate in small holes on the body, with a PE jig used to ensure they are set square to the body. At the nose you have a choice of either a clear seeker, or a protective cover for when the aircraft is parked up whilst armed, while at the rear there is a PE exhaust ring, with a spare in case you lose one of the four. The painting and decaling guide at the front shows where to place the surprisingly large number of decals on the finished missiles, and that's about it! A word of caution however – the parts are so fine that they are easily broken in the pack, despite the layers of protective foam. Open your packet over a clean desk, and be very careful, as my review sample had two fins and two seeker windows loose in the box, and one of the seekers has disappeared. GBU-12 Laser Guided Bomb (648155) Although the box says "missile", it is actually an LGB, the Paveway II, which is based on the Mk.82 iron bomb body with electronics and steerable vanes at the rear that enables it to follow a laser designator down its free-fall trajectory to a specific target. This set will allow you to make up four bombs, which are made up from separate bodies and tail sections, plus four fins on the cylindrical forward section, and either covered or an uncovered laser head. When complete, the majority of the bomb is painted olive drab, with the area under the forward fins a leather brown cover. If you are modelling your bombs on a naval jet, check your references to see whether the bomb itself is coated with an ablative layer that has a rough texture, and is added to delay "cook off" in the event of a ship-board fire. A coat of stippled Mr Surfacer would do the trick if so, and the bomb body section is sometimes painted grey, as is the section aft of the steering fins. Decals are provided of course, with the usual diagram showing placement and colour choices on the front of the instruction booklet. Review samples courtesy of

F-4B Resin Updates (for Academy) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Academy's F-4B was first released in 2012, and Eduard have recently re-boxed it as the "Good Morning Da Nang!" boxing reviewed here, which proved very popular and has long since sold out with most vendors. Now the resin sets that were included in the boxing have been released as separate items, which should please many people by the looks of things. Both sets arrive in the Eduard Brassin deep clamshell boxes, and have the instructions doubled up as the backing card, with plenty of foam protecting the parts within. F-4B Ejection Seats As well as the six resin blocks there are two pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) sheets of parts to complete the build, which will also require you to find some lengths of 0.2mm wire. The seats are identical and only the headbox is separate from the resin part, plus a couple of very small parts that fix to the back and sides. There are a couple of scrap diagrams showing the wiring up of the equipment behind the headbox, which is where the 0.2mm wire comes in. The rest of the parts are from the PE sheet, many of which are pre-painted and can be added after the main painting of the seat is done. A full set of seatbelts are provided in pre-painted PE too, as are the various pull-handles and a pair of very delicate templates to allow you to spray the "CAUTION" and "LIFT HERE" stencils on the seat cushion. Additional masking in this department is crucial, to save overspray from ruining your work. Colour call-outs are in the Gunze Sangyo ranges, as usual. F-4B Exhaust Nozzles Comprising six resin parts, plus a small fret of PE for the afterburner ring, this set will do wonders for the detail of the exhausts of your F-4B. The rear of the engine with fan and stator blades is mated with the PE afterburner ring parts, and then glued to the end of the main exhaust trunking, which has a fluted texture to the business end. This is in turn glued to the exhaust petals, which are superbly detailed, with subtle petal detail on the outside, and actuator rods on the inside – detail that would be almost impossible in injection moulding. Each part will need liberating from its pouring block with a razor saw, and apart from being careful not to remove any chunks of yourself in the process, it should be easy to do, as the hollow parts have hollow casting blocks too, saving additional sawing. Once completed and painted, the exhausts are installed using the provided location lugs on the outer casing that fits into the depression in the lower fuselage that was intended for the kit parts. Review sample courtesy of

Meteor F.4 Wheels (632041) for HK Model 1:32 Eduard Brassin Eduard's resin is second to none, and this set is no exception. It replaces the kit parts, which although adequate for a lot of people, could bear improvement as well as doing without the chore of sanding seams. The set arrives in Eduard's usual Brassin clamshell box, and inside are nine resin blocks containing seventeen parts, plus a set of wheel masks in yellow kabuki tape (not pictured), and an instruction booklet that doubles as the backing card. The parts are drop-in replacements, with the wheels having separate hubs on both sides, with massively improved detail, as are the wheels themselves, which have circumferential thread as well as maker's mark and spec. on the sidewalls. The set doesn't stop there however, as you also get a trio of mudguards and their bracing hoops that are a better scale representation than the kit parts. There is even a pair of small resin parts for the port axle that adds a feature not present out of the box, although what it is escapes me. Conclusion A smashing upgrade to the wheel set, which as always with Eduard is comprehensive, and provides the masks to allow you to paint the wheels and hubs neatly. Wheel seams are a general pain, and all that extra detail is just lovely. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hawker Typhoon Wheels (for Airfix) 1:24 Eduard Brassin (624001) Following on from my tardy review of the new Airfix Typhoon, here is the new Brassin wheel set, which arrives in Eduard's usual Brassin clamshell box, with seven resin parts on five casting stubs, all in a mid-grey resin. It also includes a set of kabuki tape masks for the main wheels and tail-wheel, with simple instructions on how to build and install them on your kit. Apart from removing any seam sanding from the equation due to the single piece casting of the wheels, you also gain extra detail on the tyre sidewalls, and the tyres are of a slightly more pleasing shape, with an element of weighting moulded in. They are also around 1.75mm narrower and have a 1mm smaller diameter than the Airfix kit parts. The hubs are separate parts that will need liberating from their casting blocks with either a razor saw or motor-tool, but remember not to inhale the dust. The hubs are keyed for correct orientation, and have much improved detail on the spoked side, and on the axle side there are several concentric rings and bolt detail present that isn't there on the kit parts. The anti-shimmy tail-wheel is a single part with integrated hubs, which slides within the yoke just like the kit part, but again you no longer have to deal with the seam running down the recessed middle of the tyre's tread. The masks (not pictured) are Eduard's usual affair, and allow the painting of all the wheel hubs after the tyres have been painted, although you will need to add some extra tape around the edges to prevent over-spray. Conclusion There is one thing that these replacement resin tyres don't have, and that is a slant on the weighted contact patch that allows the tyres to sit flat against the ground. That can be added with a quick swipe of a sanding stick however, and the additional detail is well worth that little effort. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

"Danger Zone" Upgrade Sets 1:48 Eduard Brassin To complement their Limited Edition kit of the F-14A (Danger Zone, Kit Number 1192), Eduard have added some superb additions to further improve the detail of this kit. There are four sets in total, all of which are available separately so that you can choose which area interests you, and how far you wish to stretch your budget. Big Sin F-14A Weapons Set (SIN64814) This includes all the missiles that you could need for your Tomcat, in quantities that it actually used, rather than theoretical maximums. The figure sized box is a top-opener, and has a small picture of the contents in the top left corner, and the horned Big Sin logo in the opposite corner. Inside is a festival of resin missiles all bagged by type, and with a bubble-wrap cocoon protecting it all. An additional bag has some card stiffeners to protect the Photo-Etch (PE) and decals from bending. AIM-9M/L Sidewinder Four of these almost ubiquitous short-range missiles are included, with the main body and aft fins moulded as a single piece. When cut from the casting block a PE exhaust part finished the tail, while a PE jig is folded up to act as support for the separate forward steering vanes that plug into slots in the nose area. Once set, the jig can be removed and discarded. A clear seeker head is included from clear resin, or you can plug in the protective cover if you are modelling your aircraft on the flight line with all the Remove Before Flight (RBF) tags dangling. Speaking of which, you get a set of eight, four of which have white stencilling, the rest having black. To differentiate between the M and L variants, a small PE part is added for the M, and a fastener is removed in the same place for the L. The decals include all the stencils and banding for both the M and L variants too, with Gunze painting call-outs throughout. AIM-7M Sparrow Four Sparrows are included, with the tail fins moulded into the main body, separate forward steering vanes, and a PE exhaust aperture. A small PE part is added behind the steering vanes, preferably after main painting, as it is pre-painted for ease. Decals include all relevant stencils and banding for your missiles, and Gunze colour call-outs are used throughout. AIM-54A Phoenix Although the F-14 could theoretically carry 6 Phoenix missiles, this configuration wasn't used in practice, so the four that are included in the pack should be sufficient. The main body and forward fins are moulded as one, with a separate tail and aft fins attached, which has a deep exhaust aperture within. In order to obtain the best fit, it might be as well to use a drill-bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the missile to hollow out the contact face, to avoid any odd angles creeping into your build. There is no PE included with this set, but a comparatively large decal sheet is needed due to the quantity of stencils and bands that the missile wore. You will need to pay careful attention to the alignment of the bands too, as they are split into short sections by the missile's fins, so each band is made from four parts. Colour call-outs are of course using Gunze paint codes. "Danger Zone" F-14A Upgrade Set (48817) This set comes on two large 14cm x 7cm brass frets and takes up where the set included within the box leaves off, detailing much of the rest of the airframe as necessary. This includes parts for the radar assembly, nose gear bay, refuelling probe, and most significantly, the 20mm Vulcan cannon bays, which receive a set of detail skins to update the bland interior. The bays each get a surround into which the fasteners lock on the real thing, all of which should enhance realism significantly. A strip of 20mm shells and a skin for the large drum finish off that area. Further skins are added to the aft air-brakes between the tails, as well as some scab-plates and slime lights. The crew steps are each replaced by a single part that is folded up into a three-dimensional part, and their bays are each given a skin. The crew ladder is replaced by a pair of PE sides, to which you must add three lengths of 0.7mm rod to make the steps. This is then attached to the upper section, which is also upgraded with more detail and a PE top step. The nose landing gear is updated with small parts, plus a PE plate on the retraction jack, while the retraction jacks of the main gear are given detailed PE sides. The gear bay doors are updated with PE skins and hinges, but the nose gear covers are replaced completely with new PE parts, which also include new hinges. The arrestor hook housing is skinned with riveted PE, and the remaining parts are used to give the pylons more detailed mating surfaces, which includes the semi-conformal ones on the belly. F-14A Seatbelts in Fabric (49069) Eduard's collaboration with Martin from HGW continues to bring his innovative fabric seatbelts to the main stream, and this set is exactly that. The PE seatbelts included with the kit look nice, but they don't quite drape in the same easy manner than flexible fabric does. This intricate set aims to remedy this with a small sheet of pre-printed, laser-cut seatbelt material, and a small fret of plated PE that is full of buckles and fixings. The belts are crumpled up, removed from the backing and then threaded and glued through the PE parts to form a full set of belts, which includes the leg restraints that pull the pilot's legs close to the seat to prevent injury in the event of an ejection. These are all then fixed to a painted seat, giving a superb realistic look to them. They are small and need patience to assemble them, but they are most definitely worth the effort. F-14 Remove Before Flight Tags in Fabric (49693) Comprising three small sheets of the HGW printed "Super Fabric" and a small fret of plated PE, this set will permit you to deck out your F-14 with those handsome RBF tags that flutter in the wind on airbases. There are three types of attachment, either a ring and hook, clamp and hook, or just a loop of wire. You supply the wire, in case you were wondering. You simply peel the pre-printed tag from the backing paper, scrunch it up between your fingers and then straighten it out, which can be a bit tricky, as small parts sometimes stick to each other, and the material is incredible thin. Then you thread one of your three attachment types through the hole at the top, and attach it in the places marked X on the opposite side of the instruction sheet. You'll need to check your references to see which type goes where, but the result will be stunning, and they actually do flutter in the micro-breezes in the room. If you remove too many, you can straighten them up and stick them back on the backing paper until needed again, as I just found out. Review sample courtesy of

As seen at EDay over the weekend

German 250/500kg Bombs 1:48 Eduard Two sets of highly detailed resin bombs in 250kg or 500kg flavours, with four in the 250kg blister pack, and two in the larger 500kg set. Each bomb is made up from two parts, linked together with a keyed, tapering plug that helps to centre the two parts, and avoids the need for a totally perpendicular cut of the casting block at the rear of the bomb body. That's harder than it sounds, so this is a good work-around. The fin stabilisers are made from Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and with a small fold at each end can be glued into the depressions in the faces of each fin. The smaller bombs have a pair of tubular structures on the faces of opposing fins, the identity of which I've been unable to divine. SC-250 250KG Bomb (648161) SC-500 500KG Bomb(648162) Decals are included to stencil the bombs, and these consist of yellow or red stripes for the tapering rear of the bomb, plus stencils arranged along the top of the bomb around the mounting lug and fuse sockets. You are entreated to paint the bombs RLM71 dark green, but a little wear would also be appropriate, due to handling or storage under less than ideal conditions. Conclusion Super-detailed, and super useful, as the 250kg variant could be carried by almost all German WWII bombers, most notable of which was the Stuka. If anyone has an idea of what the little tubes are for, I'd love to know. Rockets? Flares so they could follow the bomb down? Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Bf.109G Resin Updates 1:48 Eduard Brassin We reviewed the recently released Bf.109G-6 here, and now Eduard have the resin update sets for those amongst us that want extra detail. Did I say resin sets? Yes… lots of them! Enough preamble, let's get on with the sets. 109G Cockpit (648140) This is a complete replacement for the kit cockpit in resin and Photo-Etch (PE) brass, which arrives in the usual Brassin box, and contains 21 pieces of resin, one of which is clear, two small sheets of PE, one of which is pre-painted with instrument dials, a decal for the instrument faces if you prefer to use the resin instrument panel, and a tiny slip of acetate film that has the gunsight glass parts printed on it. To fit it, all you need do is discard the kit parts and remove the moulded in cockpit sidewall detail from the insides of the fuselage halves, so it's almost a drop-fit. The first four steps of construction deal with building up the floor and seat from resin, seatbelts from pre-painted PE, and the instrument panel from either resin and decals, or PE and resin, depending on your preference. The sidewalls are added to complete the tub, and then your choices start. You can choose early or late gunsights by using different resin and acetate parts, and then early or late canopies. The earlier canopy has PE head-armour and the cushion is resin, with a pair of grab handles on the corners of the windscreen, and a fixed rear portion of the canopy. The late version uses the Erle-Haube one-piece canopy, which has different head armour and no cushion, and a different rear bulkhead where the canopy attaches. Different canopy stays are also included for each type, which hold the canopy at just the right angle to the fuselage. Engine & Guns (648141) This is the pièce de rèsistance of the sets available, and also the largest, most comprehensive of them. It arrives in an oblong Brassin box, and contains 51 resin parts, a sheet of PE parts, and a small decal sheet with yellow and white individual serial digits for the engine block. The instruction booklet is quite thick, which is a testament to the complexity of the set. Construction starts with the engine block and its ancillary parts, such as the reduction gear and oil tank that wraps around it, plus four PE lifting eyes, one on each corner. The small parts plug into corresponding sockets in the engine, and are almost a friction fit, with very fine tolerances. The engine bearers are added next, and the "blower" fitted to the port side, with PE mesh and a small resin hose. Two different gun compartments are supplied to fit over the bulkhead and magazines, depending on whether you are building a G-6 or G-6/U4 variant, both of which have slots for the ammo feeder chutes to the nose guns, and will require some lengths of wire to complete the fit, which differs between the two variants. A host of tiny PE hoses are added around the bulkhead, and then the engine can be attached via five points, and the rest of the hoses made up from wire of various diameters from your own stocks. Now for the fun part, where you remove the upper cowling and gun bay cover from the kit with your razor saw, following the guide diagrams very carefully to ensure you don't overdo it. If you're using the kit instrument panel and front bulkhead, you'll need to trim those down slightly too, again as indicated on the instructions. The fuselage can be mated around the cockpit before you install the engine parts, which is good, as everyone likes to get the fuselage closed up. A small resin insert goes within the recess left by the Beule humps, and you then build up the new cowling parts from the exquisitely detailed resin parts, plus the intake for the supercharger. A small PE part is used to disguise the plastic edge of the cowling near the prop, and the two resin cowlings are glued to the central brace in a gull-wing pose, after cutting out the flashed-over gun troughs. You can make a pair of support struts from 0.4mm wire to complete the job. The gun bay fairing can be placed on a wing or nearby for a more candid appearance. A superbly detailed set, just make sure you have plenty of wire available of 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, and 0.6mm diameters. Radio Compartment (648157) The radio compartment on the 109 is in the mid-fuselage, accessed by a small panel on the port of the fuselage. The kit fuselage depicts the door closed, so that has to be removed, with the hole smoothed and rounded using small files for best effect. The panel is provided as a piece of PE, with an internal lip also supplied as a PE frame that slides within the new opening in the fuselage. The internal parts are built up from a front bulkhead with equipment attached, two halves of the internal skin of the aircraft, and a three-part tray of further equipment that sits low in the rear fuselage. There is no rear bulkhead, as only the most determined viewer with a flexible endoscope camera could see what's (not) there! Several wires and hoses are added from the PE sheet, and another piece of equipment is attached to the starboard wall, close the front bulkhead. The assembly can be sealed up and then placed within the fuselage halves, lined up with the hole you cut earlier, but it would be good practice to test fit it first to see whether it needs adjusting to fit. It's almost a shame to hide it away in the fuselage. Bf.109G Exhaust Stacks (648153) If you don't want to go all the way and open up the engine, but want those nice hollow exhaust stacks and the feint glimpse of the engine within the cowlings, then this set is for you. It contains two backing plates for the exhaust slots with engine detail visible, and 12 individual exhaust stacks that fit into slots in the manifold. A pair of PE flame damping strips are added above and below the exhaust stacks, which require a slight widening of the slot, as shown on the accompanying instructions. Undercarriage Legs Bronze (648154) After the first release of this new bronze range of replacement gear legs for the Mig-21, the line has expanded, the price come down a little, and the quality of casting improved further. These two brass legs are direct replacements for the kit parts, and are very crisply cast with minimal clean-up needed. A pair of super-detailed gear leg covers is also included to complete the job, and when correctly installed the brake hose that is moulded into the leg continues across the cover and back into the hub, which is a nice touch. Much better than a simple recast of the kit parts in white metal! Bf.109G Wheels Early (648149) & Late (648158) The narrow track of the 109 was well known as a danger during ground handling, and later on a set of wider diameter wheels were fitted with smaller hubs to help with this unwelcome characteristic. The early tyres are fitted with large diameter shallow hubs and thin radially recessed treaded tyres, while the later has a much higher casing volume and raised radial tread. The raised manufacturer's data is faithfully reproduced, and the hub detail is superb on both sets. Choose the correct type for your chosen decal subject and you'll not go too far wrong. Early (648149) Late (648158) Bf.109G Cannon Pods (648148) If you've seen the pods for the big Revell 109G, you'll probably recognise these immediately. Containing one MG 151/20 cannon in each pod under the wing, these bolt-on weapons upped the 109's offensive armaments significantly, and gave it a more aggressive look into the bargain. This set contains parts for both cannons, and each one can be posed open or closed at your whim. To build them closed is simple – just add the barrel to the fairing and scribe a small circular access hatch in the lower wing using the template provided. For the open option, you need to remove the majority of the starboard side, leaving just the aerodynamic front fairing around the barrel. The breech and ammo feed parts are added to the inside of the fairing, along with the barrel, and the extra door parts are attached cleverly using a single piece of PE that acts as both hinge and the edge of the fairing that stays in place. PE mounting lugs are added to the underside of the wing, and the pod is glued in place in line with the diagram on the instruction sheet. Repeat on the other wing, and you're done. WGr,21 Rockets for Bf.109G (648147) These large diameter unguided rockets were carried in pairs, with one under each wing, firing a 21cm rocket from up to 1km away into the bomber streams on the probability of hitting at least one bomber and detonating, with the possibility of further damage due to the close proximity of the rest of the bombers. Inside the pack you get two rockets that have PE exhausts, and two tubes with mounting points and the exhaust moulded in, into which a shortened tip of a rocket is added to depict a full tube. A brass template provides the location points for the resin supports and attachment of the retaining hook for the rocket, which should be drilled and glued before attaching the supports. The command line is PE and runs up one support leg into the rear of the rocket. There are no spare supports for the tube, so care will be the order of the day when installing them, lest they ping off to be swallowed by the legendary carpet monster. Conclusion As always, some great sets that allow the modeller to choose where to concentrate their efforts. Get them all and detail your 109 to the max, or just add a little detail to differentiate your build from the rest – it's entirely up to you. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

F-4C Phantom Wheels (648142 for Academy) 1:48 Eduard Brassin A very simple upgrade to your Academy Phantom consisting of four resin wheels in a standard Brassin shallow clamshell box. As a bonus you also get six wheel chocks in yellow resin, plus a set of wheel masks to ensure you don't mess up the painting of your highly detailed new wheels. Detail and casting is up to Eduard's usual superior standards, and the attachment points to the casting blocks are sensibly at the bottom of the wheels with wafer thin extensions extending up the side to reduce the likelihood of any bubbles being trapped in the mould. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Bf109G-6 Cannon Pods (632035 for Revell) 1:32 Eduard Brassin If you didn't fancy the rocket pods reviewed here for your Revell Bf109G-6 (reviewed here), then perhaps some cannon pods might be more your thing? They are a combined resin and Photo-Etch (PE) brass mini-kit, and inside the clamshell box you will find twelve pieces of finely moulded resin on seven pouring blocks, plus a small sheet of PE brass. You have the option of displaying either or both the pods open for maintenance by the inclusion of a pair of curved access-hatches that can be used by removing a portion of the outer fairing as seen on the wing. The barrels and breeches are separate parts, and a stub actuator is fixed to the side, as shown in a scrap diagram to aid in the correct installation. If you are closing the pods, you need only install the barrel and you're done, with the addition of a small template to scribe a circular access panel on the underside of the wing. If you are showing the pods open you still need to scribe the panel, but also add some small PE and resin parts to the wing underside to accompany the installation. The cut edge of the pod is fitted with a PE edging part, which also has a hinge for the access panel, which is glued to the overhanging flap to achieve the correct angle. The process is repeated in mirror image for the opposite wing on the other side of the instructions due to the use of handed parts. Conclusion A lovely piece of moulding, and it would be a shame not to leave one pod open to the elements to show off the detail. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

S-24 Rocket 1:48 Eduard Brassin The S-24 is a large diameter post WWII unguided rocket that due to its 24cm diameter is carried individually on pylons rather than in a pod with others. It carries a large warhead and at over 2m in length is an impressive piece of ordnance with a range of around 1.5 miles once launched. It remains in service with the Russian Air Force today, although in this age of precision munitions, its uses must be increasingly limited. Arriving in Eduard's slim clamshell, inside are two missile bodies, plus a pair of adapter rails that will fit onto parts A13 and A14 of any of your Eduard Mig-21 kits if you are using them for this purpose. Additionally, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass is included for the exhausts of the solid rocket motors, and a small decal sheet containing stencils for both the rocket and its adapter rail, which are printed in black and red. Gunze colour call-outs are given throughout, with the rail painted SM01 Super Chrome, while the missile can be either H51 Light Gull Grey or H81 Khaki. Check your references to decide which colour to use. Conclusion A simple missile with moulded in fins that is almost a drop-in part, with no seams to sand away as you do with kit parts in styrene. Inclusion of decals and the PE exhausts improves the already impressive detail, and they should look good hanging off any appropriate Soviet aircraft. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Ju.88 Wheels (early) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Arriving in a slim clamshell packaging, this set of replacement resin and Photo-Etch (PE) brass wheels with kabuki tape masks will fit as drop-in replacements for the wheels on your Dragon Ju.88 of any of the early types, but you'll need to check your references to check whether your chosen subject is suitable. The tyres are moulded as a single part with separate hubs for both sides, a subtle flattened at the bottom to give an impression of weighting, and optional PE flanges that sit around the inner hub. A scrap diagram shows you the correct positioning of the wheels, and as usual there are Gunze colour call-outs throughout. The tail wheel is also provided with neatly crafted spokes in the single resin piece that replaces the kit part. The kit strut and yoke have a moulded in mudguard, which is cut off and replaced by the supplied resin part that is braced against the axle by a PE strip that you wrap around the rear of the mudguard. Three are provided, so there's plenty of room for error! The masks (not pictured imagine a yellow square) are supplied for both the main and the tail wheels, and are doughnut shaped to allow you to paint the hub after the tyres without issue. You'll need to patch in the tread area with some scrap tape however to prevent overspray if you are airbrushing. Conclusion Superb detail, easy removal from the casting blocks and simple construction makes these an ideal upgrade for your 1:48 Ju.88. The masks are a bonus that will appeal to those that don't like painting hubs, making for a well-rounded (sorry about the pun!) package. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Mk.82 Bombs w/Airbrake Early 1:48 Eduard Brassin This variant of the standard Mark.82 iron bomb is the tail-retarded Snakeye, which instead of the usual stabilising tail fin is instead fitted with a set of air-brakes that unfold upon release and reduce the bomb's forward fall-rate to allow the releasing aircraft to get outside of the blast-radius at low level. The set arrives in the usual distinctive clamshell box, and inside are enough resin parts to make six examples of the bomb, which was used extensively in Vietnam era. The main bomb body is smooth and has mounting lugs on the "top", with a hole ready to take one of two contact fuses of differing lengths. The folded tail is separate, and once removed from their casting blocks they mate with a flat surface that can be a little difficult to get square. If you haven't managed to cut yours totally square, instead of trying to get it perfect, just create a depression in the centre of the mating surfaces so that they contact only around the outer edge. That reduction in contact surface will make it much easier to square up, and don't forget to align the fins to the attachment lugs per the scrap diagram. Markings The fuse tip is steel, while the rest of the bomb is painted Olive Drab (H52/C38 in Gunze colours), and the small decal sheet contains the stencils common to all bombs, plus a pair of curved yellow nose-bands for each bomb and one spare. The smaller band sits forward of the large one to take account of the tape of the bomb's nose. Conclusion Something a little different from a standard Mk.82, and with the superb detail cast into the fins, they should look great hung off your latest creation. If you're minded to put them on a Naval aircraft, remember that a thermal protective coating was added following the 1967 USS Forrestal fire, so a little filler and a stippling brush will be needed to correctly depict a Snakeye after this time. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

OFAB-100 & OFAB-250 Soviet Bombs (2 sets) 1:48 Eduard Brassin With the glut of Soviet WWII subjects released lately in 1:48, these highly detailed resin bombs will be most useful if you happen to have partaken in the resurgence of interest in the Great Patriotic War. These sets arrive in Eduard's stylish bubble pack and inside each one you will find either parts to make four 250kg bombs, or eight 100kg bombs, depending on which one you get! You also get a small decal sheet of stencils appropriate for the task in black and white, with the larger bombs also having blue stripes around their snub noses. OFAB-100 (648126) OFAB-250 (648127) Each bomb is constructed from three parts. The cylindrical nose section, the tapered tail part and the stabilising fins that slot into the latter. You will need to remove the parts from their pouring stubs using a razor saw, and the mating of the forward and aft sections might be easier if you make a hollow in the centre of each part, which although it reduces the mating surface, also makes it easier to get a nice square join between the parts afterwards. The fins are cut from their pour stubs, and after cleaning up should just slot into the recesses on the conical tail of the body. The fit is actually so good that if you line up two sets correctly, the tails and conical parts just slip together and the fit is superb. Markings The decals are well printed and register isn't an issue as each one is only a single colour. The designation of the bomb is stencilled in black around the circumference of the body, while additional white stencils are placed on the middle of the body in the direction of air flow. The larger 250kg bombs have blue stripes provided for the noses, with a spare in case you mess one up. The painting and decaling guide on the front of the instruction booklet states Gunze grey H308 (C308) for the bombs, which you can convert to your paint of choice if you don't use Gunze paints Conclusion The detail of the parts is stunning, and the finesse of the stabilising fins has to be seen to be appreciated fully. The downside of this is that the parts are necessarily delicate and two of the smaller fins had been broken in transit on the 100kg bombs. I repaired them with CA for the review photos (they're the back ones), so it pays to open the package carefully and check the fins before depositing any moulding "flash" in the bin, as it might well be a bomb fin! Otherwise highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

B-17 Guns (632026) 1:32 Eduard Brassin These highly detailed resin and Photo-Etch (PE) .50cal machine guns are intended to replace every gun carried by the Fortress, which is a total of 13 for the G variant. Each gun is moulded as a single part breach and barrel, with separate cocking handles where appropriate, PE ring and bead sight, and again where appropriate a detailed mount to replace the kit supplied parts. Some of the paired guns are handed, so take care in choosing the correct casting from the box, as in total there are 4 different mouldings. Starting at the nose, two handed guns are installed, replacing the kit parts. In the cheek guns, a cylindrical pivot point and cocking handle is added to each gun. The top turret has a pair of drop-in replacement parts, and the radio compartment gun is assembled with a cylindrical pivot and a two-part resin mount that straddles the window in the rear of the cockpit area. The ball turret has again a pair of handed drop-in replacements, while the waist gunner positions have a cylindrical pivot and a long mount that rests against the bottom lip of the waist position windows. At the rear the Cheyenne turret are a simple pair of drop-in replacement units. Now onto the problem. In the box, it would appear that my sample was placed in the box carelessly with parts crossed over eachother, despite being well packaged in two separate layers. As a consequence, a great many of the guns were bent on receipt, one or two are so out of line they could almost shoot round corners. This may have been avoided by casting the barrels separately from the breaches, but as it stands a little heat will be needed to straighten them. I think I'll try taping them to a board and applying hot water then cold, hopefully setting them back to straight. Conclusion Some highly detailed replacement guns and mounts that are marred only by some simple packaging issues. You will need to nip the very tips off the barrels and drill a small hole with a 0.4mm or 0.3mm bit to represent the hollow muzzle, but that shouldn't pose much of a problem to most modellers. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of