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Found 14 results

  1. Those of you who know me have already heard about the ludicrous Crisp medical story of 2021, which meant that Ark Royal and P-38F builds ground to a shattering halt for most of the year. Finally, however, I am in a position to start building again, but I find that my mojo to pick up exactly where I left off is wobbly - ironic, given the fact that the P-38 was itself a build kicked off by medical emergencies. After a few days of desultory re-planning and gentle sanding of Ark boats, I have decided to do something completely different. A few of you possibly spotted where I was going when I asked for reference photos just before Christmas (thanks, Evert-Jan!), but for those who didn’t… At Telford I spent a happy half hour talking to the two lovely Dutch guys from Naval Models, and acquired one of their lovely 1/350 S-Klasse / Kortenaer Class “Standard” frigates. My best Naval friend (I’ve been his Best Man… twice!) is a Dutch officer who did an exchange tour in HMS Broadsword when I was Flight Commander in 1989-1991; he will be 60 in a couple of months, so this his present, and will be built as Hr.Ms. Bloys v. Treslong, the ship he joined when he returned to the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Dutch Navy) after his time with us. The kit is very similar in style and quality to Atlantic Models’ RN kits - resin with PE. I’ll be building her pretty much OOB, though I’d say the kit’s main (only major) weakness is the fact that it lacks railings or flight deck nets… so I’ve added one of Pete’s generic “Modern RN railings” sets. And a Master brass barrel for the OTO-Melara gun, cos brass barrels always look better than resin. I actually started 5 or 6 days ago, but so far (as with all resin kits) it’s been wall-to-wall sanding to remove some pretty chunky casting plugs, so nothing interesting to show you. Anyway… The hull, cast in one piece (I’ve sanded away some of the bow-mounted sonar dome to give a bit of stability - she’ll be in a sea scape): Details of Fo’c’s’le: …and Quarterdeck: …in both cases showing some clean-up still needed but excellent quality casting. The various superstructure sections after several hours of work to remove casting blocks: Plus closer view of bridge: …funnel area without and with turbine downtake section (which was different in different ships of the class, so not cast in one piece); …and the aforementioned OTO-Melara 76mm gun with the Master barrel (plus resin shell case ejector carefully shaved from the resin part): …and finally the Goalkeeper CIWS - half-way through building this I realised that the Airfix Lusty has Goalkeepers which are unused in my Ark 5 build, and their barrels are rather nice, especially with added PE bling: So that’s the story so far. Nice to be back. More soon Crisp
  2. Hi, A second my Fokker C-V - this time with RR Kestrel engine Dutch C-V D (so with short wings). Mashine is in colours of II Recconaissance group April-May 1940. Decals out of box but some small upgrade od model (guns sights, bombs, rotable prop, control cables, {EDIT: surface pannels before cockpit done by putty instead of thick deca or rather stick provided in box} ) was introduced. When I asked about colours here I've got a importnat hint from @Roger Holden that fuel tank was removed in Kestrel driven Dutch C-VD from upper wing to fuselage, so I follwed this info and sanded out all fuel tank structure from top wing. This was main Improvments, many thank Roger for turning my attention to this change As I mentioned already with previous C-VD (Norwegian) this type of Fokker is an unique bi-plane without riging. Here she is (some noise effect of camera gives blur, sorry for that but no too much light today): Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek
  3. Matchbox' NF11/12/14 Meteor is just one of those kits you gotta love for offering so much in such a small package. No less than three marks in one cheap box! Lots of spare parts, especially if you decide to use Aeroclub's conversion set. This kit has quite a bit of history behind it. I first started building kits when I was 7 or 8 or so and it was of course my dad who brought me into the hobby. We set out together to build all aircraft types ever flown with Dutch military or civil registrations, as well as all Dutch-designed types. The Meteor was of course on that list and my dad bought it as it looked like the two-seater T.7. We found out it didn't have the right parts for that however. The kit never reached the top of the build queue and languished in the stash. Fast forward thirty years or so. My dad passed away two years back and I ran across the kit when tidying up the house, many kits had gone into storage. By then I'd also picked up a set of Dutch Decal's Facts & Fiction sheet, which had a very attractive scheme for an NF.14 which the Dutch Air Force was about to buy before the Americans stepped in to supply the F-86K. However, when I opened the kit there was a surprise: It included the Aeroclub conversion to build it as a T.7, fully marked up by my dad to show which parts where applicable. So that clinched it, build it as a T.7 as originally intended! This is one of those Matchbox kits with very fine raised detail. Unfortunately it is also one of those Matchbox kits with slightly worse than average fit; particularly the exhausts and intakes and the upper fuselage insert require a lot of filling and sanding so much of that detail was lost. I decided to use the kit as a bit of an exercise in rescribing, which made the build twice as long. I'm happy with the result though; I used some tape of unknown provenance I had in my stash which was quite thin and flexible but also had some 'height' to it which was perfect for fitting around curves and guiding the scribing tool. Painting was easy and quick, for the 'high speed silver' I used Humbrol Polished Aluminium from a rattle can. Goes on quickly and results in a nice finish I think. Decals were a combination of a very old Dutch Decal sheet which I had stuck behind a window for a few weeks to get rid of the yellowing and the Matchbox decals for the walkways. They both performed very well for their age. An Albion Alloys pitot completed the job. I'm quite pleased with the result. This kit and conversion combo has of course been superseded by the much better Special Hobby tooling but if you have these kits around, they deserve the effort and will reward you for it.
  4. After a little research, can I assume I'd be correct in saying that Dutch F-16s are the following greys? FS36118 FS36270 FS36375 However, as it's 1/48 I'm intending, and I am terrible at handpainting, I want to use rattle cans for all of these. Does anyone know which BS number equivalents I'd need as I cannot find any spray paint companies listing FS numbers.
  5. Well hi everyone! my builds are mainly focused on little planes with roundels on and mostly from the ETO/MTO, however I got sent some Transfers in an exchange from a lovely chap in Chicago... you may know him? Procopius is his name and he kindly offered to send some mozzie transfers in exchange for a set of Hampden ones i had. i was surprised to find a number of other sets it the envelope for B-24's that flew in the SEA theatre, what a nice guy! so Mr P consider this for you and your growing family... since getting them I have really wanted to build the below Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr I mean who wouldnt?! its got a massive sharks mouth! I have been hunting for an affordable lib kit ever since.... so while taking a jaunt round Telford with CedB i noticed a bargain, as Ced said they are bargains for a reason, and this ones reason appears to be its bomb aiming window is short shot... Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Not an issue as the front turret is also the wrong type and the astro dome needs moving forward to the nose, so I bought the squadron vac form set which should sort all my issues!? Its winging its way to from hannats as we speak and should be here tomorrow! Anyway, I have 'Balls out' to finish, the revell P-47 and a wild cat that's nearly there, so once they have been sorted i will start this.... wish me luck as its a bit of beast, and its my first four engined bomber in some time! I will get shots up of the kit and extras once I start this.... if anyone has any watch outs about the kit then please let me know! Rob. P.s. I think i may have a SEA phase coming up.... Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr
  6. I returned to this hobby after a seven year hiatus. I have been lurking this forum for many years and decided to join. This forum is very active with a myriad of spectacular builds, and the crowd alway seems friendly, civil and helpful. Plus I have a soft-spot for the Brits I have already completed an HK Models 1/32 Gloster Meteor F.4 (also in Dutch colours). It was quite the comeback with old lessons learned all over again, but also a lot of recognition. When I went shopping in Eindhoven I saw the box of this 1/32 TF-104G and just could not resist, this a/c has always had great appeal to me, two-seaters are just much more sexy than their single seat counterparts. I am amazed at the diversity of new kits these days, I any scale....but I digress. First impressions: It's no HK Meteor in terms of surface detail (which was superb), but still quite nice and a step up from what I am used to with Italeri kist. Parts details is also high enough and leaves room for scratch- and aftermarket, but it is not needed persé at all. Fit so far has been good also, but again, not as good as the HK Meteor (which for now is my only reference). The decal sheet is....wow. It seems every stencil is there. I will comment on how the decals perform at the end of this build. The engineering is also nice, even when overdone in some areas. The instructions are sketchy in a few spots, but very good overall (the cockpit side walls for example are shown as glued in to the retainer instead of behind it. Luckily it looked goofed up when I dry fitted and I found out in time. The real-deal: I don't have much to show for yet, some sub-assemblies going on: One of the tanks: Italeri's colour callout, wrong! Dutch (camouflaged) Starfighters were light grey underneath, not aluminium like the German ones. I have sprayed the tank underside in the colour suggested in many places: RAL7001 Silbergrau fro Xtracolor, but this is way too dark. I found the the base coat of Surfacer I primed it with is much much closer, so I will be using that instead. Currently working on the nice engine, which I will present next time. Cheers!
  7. Hi all, I like floatplanes, I also like the ML-KNIL airplanes in the former Dutch East Indies. This Ryan STM-S2 is the very old Testors kit in 1/48 that needed a lot of work. Arguably the smallest 1/48 I have built. I decided not to use the pilot and co-pilot "figures" and to scratch-built the interior (seats, instrument panels, etc.) by plasti-card. I also did some necessary changes to depict the ML-KNIL version (e.g. the rudders on the floats, the pilots transparency, navigation lights). The rigging was quite a process. I used Xtracrylic paints and the decals are all from spares. Some post-shading and washing, and voila. Hope you like it Dimitrios K.
  8. Dutch O-16 Submarine Pacific Crossroads 1:350 History The Inter-War Dutch submarine fleet could be split into two categories: O, (Onderzeeboot) boats, designed for the home waters and K, (Kolonien), boats, for deployment in the vast East Indies colonies. The main differences between the two types were size and range, which was greater for the K boats due to the operational area. The O-16 was the first submarine which combined the range, size and speed of the colonial boats with the handling and armament requirements of the boats designed for the European waters. The keel for the O-16 was laid down in December 1933 at K.M. De Schelde shipyard in Vlissingen. She was launched on January 27th 1936 and commissioned on October 26th. In early 1937 O-16 sailed to the United States, visiting Norfolk and Washington D.C. with stops at Bermuda, the Azors and Lisbon. In 1939 she was attached to the Dutch East Indies submarine fleet. When war was declared on Japan on December 8th 1941, O-16 was already on patrol in the South China Sea and commenced attacking Japanese forces that were invading northeast Malaya. On December 10th she damaged a troopship. Two days later O-16 attacked several troopships in the Bay of Soengei Patani on the East coast of Malaya, sinking three in shallow water and damaging a fourth. With only one torpedo left she sailed for Singapore. On December 15th O-16 struck a mine exiting the Gulf of Siam during her voyage to Singapore. She was nearly broken in half and 41 men perished. Only one crew member, Boatswain Cornelis De Wolf, survived. In October 1995, the wreck of O-16 was found and three years later was filmed and photographed. The Model This kit is the first submarine from Pacific Crossroads and it was a very pleasant surprise when it arrived in the post, as I wasn’t expecting it, so thanks for the this Boris. The kit comes in a very sturdy cardboard box with a picture of the O-16 moored alongside a Far Eastern jetty in a very dramatic light and a War Cross medal with Nederlandsch 1941-42 Bar in the right hand corner. On opening the box the modeller is presented with a very well protected hull form, wrapped in bubble wrap, a clear plastic box with all the other resin parts carefully protected, a sheet of etched brass, (although like the other kits from Pacific Crossroads it still looks like copper), a small poly bag containing a small decal sheet and the turned barrel of the main gun. The instructions come with a short history section, reproduced above, some period photographs and colour plan view of the starboard side and top. The instructions themselves are in a pictorial form of coloured drawings. They are very clear and well annotated, showing which parts go where. The modeller will have to scratch build the radio and periscope masts, but there are clear plans for these at the rear of the instructions. Whilst the protection of the main, single piece hull is very good some of the bollards had broken off, but these can easily be replaced with suitably sized rod or even aftermarket parts. The detail moulded into the hull is very nice, but there are some scratches on the sides that will need to be sanded down a bit. The wooden slat decking appears a little over scale and would benefit from a light sanding to reduce the depth a bit, this goes for the deck piece that covers the external torpedo tubes too. The hull isn’t connected to heavily to the moulding block so once removed it shouldn’t be too difficult to clean up ready for the build. The rest of the parts comprising of the single piece tower, propellers, complete with shafts, external torpedo tubes, aft pair of dive planes, rudder, and ships guns, two AA and the single main are all very nicely moulded and will need only a minimal clean up after removal from the casting blocks. As stated above the main gun comes with option of using a turned metal barrel. This will require the resin barrel to be removed and a small hole drilled into the gun to fit. Etch The single etched sheet provides the rest of the parts required to complete the build and included the various railings for the hull and tower, two cranes, one fitted forward and one aft, vertical ladders and two “accommodation ladders”. There are also two aerial spreaders/supports, the bow cable/net cutter, watertight doors for the tower, aft AA gun gratings, two plates that cover the external, trainable torpedo mounting, which can be posed either open or closed and the two foreplanes. Two quite large plaques are provided for attaching to whatever base you decide to mount the completed model on. The build is quite simple, but I can imagine a little fiddly, but one everything is removed from the casting blocks and cleaned up it shouldn’t cause too many problems for the more experienced modeller. I would assemble the masts first in preparation for fitting at the appropriate point. Once these are done the tower can be fitted to the hull, followed by the trainable torpedo tubes, which are fitted into the well on the foredeck and cover by the separate deck piece. The propellers/shafts are then fitted, along with the aft diveplanes, which come complete with prop guards, and rudder. The ships guns are then fitted to their appropriate positions before the etched parts are fitted. The railings are particularly fine and along with the aerial supports great care should be taken to fit them in their appropriate positions without damaging them. The three periscopes and main mast can then be fitted before painting begins. Of course this is only one way of building the model and the modeller should choose what’s best for them and the way they tackle it. Decals The small sheet contains two Dutch flags, which I presume are fitted either side of the tower, although some research will be need to determine the correct placement, and two very small, (I missed them completely, until Boris pointed them out), white identification codes. Make sure you don't lose them when dipping the sheet in water. Conclusion For the first submarine release Pacific Crossroads have chosen an unusual and exciting example. Even the colour scheme will make it stand out from the crowd in a display. Whilst every effort has obviously been made to ensure the parts are well protected there are bound to be some breakages as evidenced on the review sample, but there is nothing that can’t be scratch built to replace these small fragile parts. If you like submarines, you’ll love this and it really should be included in any collection. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hi everyone! I'm Robbert, or C1Rob, 27 and I'm from Zwolle, The Netherlands. Like a lot of new users I recently re-found the hobby of scale models. I did some car models when i was around 15 but these turned out horrible haha, mostly because of lack of patience... Recently i picked up one of the stranded models (a 1/24 revell Chevy Malibu hotrod) which i used to practice a little bit. I found it fun and stress relieving which is good It will need some more work, but that will come with time. I had previously purchased one of those tiny air compressors from china (the nail airbursh things...) and used that to "paint" the malibu. It turned out ok but I decided that if i wanted to airbrush i needed something better. As a late/early birthday present my girlfriend bought me an Airbrush compressor. Its awesome and makes me want to practice some more. Its a Fengda AS186A (has a 3 liter airtank and start stop system). Im still using the airbrush which came with the earlier china thing but im lookin at some other Airbrushes soon. (Ultimate apex seems to be at the top of my list). My main interest had always been cars, but recently ive been looking into military models and im really starting to appreciate them alot! My dad had tried to build a dutch navy westland lynx with me from a 1/72 revell kit about 18 years back but that didnt turn out to well. I still have the box but cant find the parts haha. I really like the look and feel of helicopters and i feel its going to be my main go to although I do intent to build aircraft and armor aswell (both modern and older) Because of this I got a little over enthusiastic and bought a 1/32 Revell Westland Lynx to do up as the dutch navy version. When i received it I decided i might have taking up more than i could manage for now(over 150 parts) so decided to ground that until I have some more experience. Which made me look for something else. I then took up even more than i can manage by buying a 1/48 Gallery models Sikorsky HH-34 also to do up as the dutch navy used to fly them. Awesome model, great quality and has some nice PE parts included. Over 300 parts though hahaha. In the end I bought 2 cheap and simple kits this weekend to start and build up some experience: 1/72 Revell Bell UH-1 SAR 1/72 Revell Leopard A6M The stash right now(plus the 2 above) The 97 camaro and the integra are doomed. The Mr2 has a broken a pillar but might be fixable(has some questionable mods done to it though...) and the 70s Camaro is fixable: My Workspace so far(a little bit older picture, the "nail airbrush" is on there next to the laptop): And the goods(an old first aid bag my colleague at an old summer job threw away, i knew it would come in handy some day haha): I have some questions but I will post those in the correct sections. (one of the here) Sorry for the Long and picture heavy post! I've been enjoying lurking around here and I knew it was only fair to start of with lots of pictures in return hahaha(I put most of them in the spoiler tag to save some unaware 56k people. I hope to learn a lot here and hopefully share some of my projects and progress. Thank you!
  10. Hi Guys, I will start this build later. I will try to start it in Januari. The kit will use is the 1/48 Classic Airframes F-5A. I will build it SOB with the decals comming from own decal stash. The scheme I want to do is a red, white, blue and Orange one. At one of my first airshows I have seen this flying and it never let me go. At this site you will see the scheme. It is the one from the 1982-1985 time. (I know the site is in Dutch, sorry guys) http://kw.jonker.co/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=82:northrop-nf-5-team&catid=34&Itemid=485〈=nl Cheers,
  11. The Curtiss Hawk 75 was developed as a private venture by the Curtiss factory in the early 1930s. A number of versions with different engines and armaments were produced for different countries. By September 1939 the Dutch government had speeded up the modernization of its air force and ordered the Hawk 75A-7, which was equipped with the Wright-Cyclone R1820 1200hp engine. After the fall of The Netherlands, the planes were rerouted to the Dutch East Indies. The Hawks engaged Japanese invaders from December 1941 but were withdrawn from service in February 1942 due to engine issues. However, its more famous descendant, the P-40, served with much distinction in the Indies during and after the war. Since I’m on something of a Pacific Air War modeling spree, the P-36 / Hawk 75 has been on my list for some time. I’ve had the DB/Airwaves conversion nose in my stash for over 20 years, and I was always impressed by the quality of the part; it’s nicely detailed with recessed panel lines and flawless casting. The Revell/Monogram kit to be used for this conversion represents an A-4 and it’s old… raised panel lines, little interior detail, few parts. However, what’s there, is pretty good. Fit is decent and the transparencies are very clear. Installing the nose was a relatively simple job, but for some reason I misread the instructions, ignored common sense and used 2-component glue instead of CA to mate the new engine to the fuselage. This resulted in endless cycles of filling, sanding and priming. In the end I gouged out the 2-component glue and refilled with CA. I never did get the join quite right, but only I will notice (I hope). One issue caused by the nose job was that it removed the front on the cockpit. This resulted in a less than optimal mating surface for the windscreen, so this required some cutting, filling and blending. In turn, the sliding part of the canopy would not fit in the closed position, so I left it open. I added a QuickBoost gunsight and some tape seatbelts to spruce up the cockpit a bit. Since the nose has recessed panel lines, I decided to rescribe the entire kit. This was quite easy as there are only one or two curved panel lines, the rest are on flat surfaces. Even for me this was a relatively easy job – I’m useless at rescribing! Apart from the nose job, some other minor conversions were required. The Dutch planes only had the inner wing guns, so I removed the outer ones and the shell ejection chutes. Then I removed the inner ones as well as they are quite crude – and replaced them with Albion Alloys tubing. Same for the pitot tube. The propeller hub needed replacing as well as it’s the wrong shape. I cut off the original and replaced it with a reshaped piece of sprue. Finally, the Dutch planes had the lower portion of the gear doors removed, so this required some cutting and carving of the original parts. Painting was done with a layer of Tamiya fine primer followed by two coats of Games Workshop Runefang Steel, my NMF color of choice at the moment. It dries quickly and hardens very well, it’s easy to mask and does not pick up any nasty finger prints. The ailerons and elevators were sprayed in the same color with some grey mixed in to give a slightly faded look. Decals are from FlevoDecals ML-KNIL set 72012, which went down very well, as usual with decals from this manufacturer. I really like their sets, being a Dutch guy they are really indispensable to building my collection. I’m very happy with the final result; it’s a good-looking plane, and I’m very happy to have finally done this conversion, which has languished on the shelf for so long.
  12. The problem The Italeri kit is for the prototype and I bought it at the yeovilton show for a pound it had a box that had got damp and moldy. the decals were ruined but for a pound what the hell. looking around me got me thinking EDSG & Sky Royal navy whatif!! The I thought maybe not RN but Dutch decals from a AB204 not changed any serials or anything. Not sure what weapons to put on? It is a whatif after all So ladies and gents normal proviso 5 ft away Rodders
  13. Fokker T.IV(a) Dutch Float Plane Pacific Crossroads 1:350 The Fokker T.IV was developed to meet the requirements of the Royal Netherlands Navy for a maritime patrol/torpedo bomber aircraft for use in the Dutch East Indies. The original design was for a twin engined float plane with a thick, cantilever, high mounted, monoplane wing and a deep, slab sided fuselage with an open cockpit housing the two man crew. The aircraft was powered by two 450hp Lorraine-Dietrich 12E W-12 engines and made its maiden flight on June 7th 1927. The aircraft was fitted with three machine guns and could carry either a single torpedo or 1,764lb, (800kg) of bombs. A total of twelve were built and delivered to the Dutch Naval Aviation Service in the Dutch East Indies. In 1935 Fokker developed an improved version, the T.IV(a), with 750hp Wright Cyclone radial engines replacing the original units. The other improvements included an enclosed cockpit and enclosed nose and dorsal turrets. A total of twelve were newly built and the original aircraft re-built to T.IV(a) standard. All the new builds were also to be used in the Dutch East Indies. The T.IV(a) proved to be a reliable and seaworthy aircraft and was used for local patrols and air-sea-rescue operations from Java until 1941, when the Japanese attacked the Dutch East Indies. All remaining aircraft bar one were either scuttled or destroyed by Japanese bombing. The last aircraft was damaged in an accident and written off in May 1941 The Model This is the second aircraft in Pacific Crossroads 1:350 range, having released the Do24 last year and reviewed HERE. The kit is packaged in a sturdy hinge top opening box with a depiction of the aircraft in skimming across the sea and the Dutch Flying Cross in the right hand corner. Once again on opening the box the modeller will initially think that he has bought a box of polystyrene peanuts, but lurking in the safety of these peanuts is a small poly bag of resin parts and a small sheet of etched brass. The resin includes a single piece fuselage, two wings, single piece horizontal tailplane and the two floats. The parts, with the exception of the fuselage, are only tentatively attached to their casting blocks, so they should be pretty easy to remove with minimal clean up afterwards. It appears that Boris has been able to make a better positioning of the casting block on this kit as it is is attached to the mating surface of the wing/fuselage join this time making them a whole lot easier to use, since the fuselage has quite deep, (it’s all relative), indentations to receive the wings they should make for a nice clean fit. The casting is very nice and cleanly done with some very fine engraved details. Although the canopy frames look like they’ll be really fun to paint cleanly they are so fine. The build is quite simple, but it will be fiddly, as anyone who has built 1:350 aircraft before will testify. With the wings and tailplane glued into place it’s straight on with adding the etched parts. The most testing area will be the struts for the two floats as they are a complicated affair utilising six different parts. The other etched parts are simple to add, being the tailplane struts, aerial mast, three machine gun barrels, (which for some unknown reason were missing on the review example). The two propellers slide onto spindles in the cowlings, but the port side one was broken on the review example, but it may be best to replace them with suitable metal rod. The cowlings appear quite empty as seen in the photo above and would benefit from being filled as at this scel any engine detail would be difficult to ascertain. Decals The small decal sheet contains a number of different sized orange and black triangles, plus four identification flags, but the single colour scheme of overall khaki green with silver undersides of the wings, floats and fuselage, shown in the instructions, requires just four of the large triangles for the wings and two small ones for the fuselage. No other markings are provided, if any were applied, the modeller will need to do some research. The decals appear to be well printed, in register and with good colour density. Conclusion This is a really unusual aircraft, and one that I had no knowledge of before receiving the kit. It’s another great little kit and Boris of Pacific Crossroads should be proud of it and also congratulated for keeping the memory of the Dutch East Indies forces alive. Once again I can see this as part of an overall diorama displaying the aircraft at anchor just offshore of a Javanese dock. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  14. Dutch Admiralen Class Destroyer, Second Series Pacific Crossroads 1:350 In the 1920s, the Dutch evaluated various European designs to replace the obsolete destroyers of the Roofdier-class. They settled for the British design of HMS Ambuscade. This type included many hard-learnt lessons from the Great War. The design was altered in places to make them more suitable for service in the Netherlands East Indies: a floatplane was added, and the fire control system was considered better than that of their British counterparts. The famous British destroyer yard Yarrow & Co. Ltd from Glasgow made these alterations to the design. During World War 2, these destroyers were in need of a modernization. Their anti-aircraft armament was rapidly becoming obsolete, and their means to detect and destroy submarines were minimal. Between 1940-1942, two of the destroyers had their aft masts removed; Van Ghent and Witte de With received asdic, but otherwise, these ships differed little from their original configuration at the time of their loss. The Model Pacific Crossroads are a fairly new company based in Russia and run by Boris. Since this is the first model we have reviewed I asked Boris for a quick bio of why he started the company. “I have long been interested in the topic of the war in the Pacific and South-East Asia, 1937-45 ... Especially its initial period until the end of 1942. I collect models in scale 1/350 in this period. But many of the ships of this period no one produces! So I decided to produce the models that I want to have in your collection. The most interesting period for me during the war was between December 1941and April 1942, which was bloody mess, with the fall of Singapore, the Dutch East Indies, and the Philippines. The feats of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet and the ABDA command. I've been to Singapore, the islands of Java and Bali, the island of Koh Chang. I have also visited Colombo and Trincomalee.” The kit comes in a very sturdy cardboard box with a picture of one of the class at sea in a very dramatic light and a War Cross medal with Nederlandsch 1941-42 Bar and Javazee 1941-1942 Bar in the right hand corner. On opening the box the modeller is presented with a very well protected hull form, wrapped in bubble wrap, two plastic boxes with all the other resin parts carefully protected, two sheets of etched brass, (although it looks more like copper), a small poly bag of turned brass parts and a couple of small decal sheets. The instructions come with a nice history section, including the loss of one of the ships. The rest of the instructions are in pictorial form, with an overall view and numerous smaller views showing where the parts are fitted and are pretty clear, as are the painting plans. The full hull moulding, in grey resin, is very well done, with some fine detail that is nicely rendered. There are no signs of air bubbles or imperfections, just a fair amount of release agent which will need to be washed off. The large moulding block runs along the keel and shouldn’t be too onerous to remove and clean up the hull, with only the stem and stern sections requiring any real care when removing the block. The other resin parts are attached to moulding blocks, but some thought has been taken to ensure that the points where the blocks join the parts are mostly where they would be easy to clean up and will be the fixing points on the model. These parts consist of main and secondary armament, depth charges, ventilators, propeller shafts with the propellers attached, searchlights, deck houses, liferafts, paravanes, winches, and bridge furniture. Whilst the parts are quite well protected there were still a couple of the smaller gun barrels broken off on our review kit, although these should easily be replaced with brass rod. In the other plastic box are the larger resin parts, which consist of the ships boats, bridge structure, upper bridge, foreward and aft gun platforms, funnels, and the two triple torpedo tubes. Again the parts are cleanly moulded with no signs of air bubbles or imperfections. Etch The larger of the two etched sheets is filled with the more detailed parts. These include parts for the bridge and other parts of the superstructure, boats davits, the interiors of all the ships boats, including duck boards and thwarts. There are quite a number of deck hatches and skylights, watertight doors, various walkways and platforms, ships propellers for those modellers who think the resin ones are a bit too clunky, and the ships rudder. Each of the main guns are provided with deck mounting plates, gunners seats, training and elevation wheels and shields for the A and Y guns. The secondary armament also has training and elevation wheels, mounting plate fitted. The torpedo tubes each get a pair of crew platforms, various controls, shields and seat. Smaller items such as the ships anchors, accommodation ladders, vertical and inclined ladders, cable reels, and depth charge cranes. The sheet also comes with a complete set of railings. The smaller sheet provides the AA gun bandstand, superstructure platform supports, several smaller railings, and nameplates for each of the four second series ships. Turned brass. There is a full set of mast sections, yards and booms in turned brass. Each part would probably benefit with being soldered rather than glued to give strong joints. The instructions are very clear on the positioning of each part and the angle of each mast in relation to the vertical. Decals The small sheets contain the ships pennant letters and names for the four ships. Conclusion This is the first kit I’ve seen from Pacific Crossroads and have been very impressed with the moulding, etch and the fact that the brass turned parts have been included. The kit is also something a little different as the Dutch fleet has very little exposure in the modelling world and would make a nice addition to a collection. I believe there is also a waterline hull version available. Pacific Crossroads have a couple of other ships available and I look forward to seeing future releases. Review sample courtesy of
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