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  1. I am currently working on a diorama of a Phantom F4-C in SE Asia, I just need to know which start cart was used by USAF, if at all. Or did they use a cartridge starter? Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Cobblestone Section (36043) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Cobblestone roads have been around since before the Romans, and were prominent in Europe until after WWII because they have ease of maintenance and simple extraction and re-laying thanks to their modular nature. The downside is that they’re slippery when wet and modern vehicles with pneumatic rubber tyres struggle for grip under some circumstances. I first encountered MiniArt when I bought one of their vacformed diorama bases, before I became aware of their wider product range. This set is one of those diorama kits, and arrives in a smallish top-opening box, with two sheets of vacformed cobblestone section measuring 252mm x 173mm per sheet with a depth or "plinth height" of 5mm. Also included are two sprues of injection moulded grey plastic that provides a heap of street furniture, including bench seats, bollards, wrought iron fencing, manhole covers and grids. Construction is simple, consisting mostly of prepping the vacformed sheets, which are produced on female moulds so are dotted with small raised “pips” where the air has been drawn through the negative mould to ensure a faithful copy. These will need slicing or sanding away and any gaps filled, which shouldn’t take long. The bases are quite flexible, so will need some bracing from behind, and I have backed mine with sheet balsa wood glued in with epoxy in the past, but other materials would be similarly useful. If you intend to use the street furniture, most of it can be planted on top, and stiffened with pegs if you desire, but the manhole cover and grid will need sections cutting out of the base before they can be used. Careful marking and cutting will be the watchword, and I hope don't need to warn you not to do this on your lap. Markings After a priming, you can paint the cobbles in shades of grey or brown, accenting them with other shades, and using pigments in dry or liquid form to fill the interstices, wiping the excess off the faces of the cobbles to obtain a realistic finish as illustrated below. Conclusion Diorama bases can be a dark art if you’re unaware as to how they’re created, but these sets are able to short-cut some of the production process, having excellent detail and grounding your model in the real world rather than just floating on a shelf. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Newbie question here. Couldn't find an answer by searching. I'm wanting to start making dioramas and scenery. Where can I get extruded polystyrene foam in decent thicknesses, eg 50mm to 100mm? I have found 6mm and 20mm sheets online. Is Kingspan or Celotex insulation foam the same thing if you remove the foil? Thanks.
  4. Afghan Civilians (38034) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Since well before the 80s, a lot of conflict has gone on in the Middle East, with the recent focus having been Afghanistan and Iraq, where there have been huge Western presences during the last few decades. The Afghan civilians have been there throughout all of this, and many have lost their lives, which is immensely saddening. This boxing depicts a group of Afghanis in their typical day-to-day wear, with a broad spread of age ranges often seen in their multi-generational families, where the elders are afforded more respect and their input is valued. It arrives in a shrink-wrapped figure-sized box, with the instructions/painting guide on the rear in full colour. Inside are five sprues, three on one runner that I cut up to make photography easier. There are 4.5 figures on the sprues, the 0.5 being a small child in the arms of the mother, who is wearing a full chadaree as is their custom when out in public in Afghanistan, even though it is no longer an official requirement by the democratic regime in power. She is stood with the little girl on her hip, while a young teenage boy is stood with his hands by his side, book in hand, and (presumably) his father stands with his arms folded. An elder gentleman is sitting with his feet together in front of him on top of a tied sack, a feat that I can’t manage even now! He wears a Perahan Tunban, while the father wears a flat-topped Pakul hat, and the son wears a brimless kufi cap. Finally, the little girl has a scarf loosely draped over her head. The sculpting is first rate as you would expect from MiniArt, and parts breakdown has been carefully considered due to the presence of draped clothing on all of the figures, with additional overflow sprue tabs on some parts to prevent short-shot parts, with intelligent placement of sprue gates and seamlines to minimise clean-up. The painting suggestions are just that, with regional variations in colours used, such as the chadaree with the light blue example seen in the Kabul area, brown and green in Kandahar in the south, and white in the north in Mazar-i-Sharif. Conclusion The background to any diorama or vignette is key, so having a group of bystanders to add to your model will bring additional authenticity to the finished product. Very useful. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Already posted in the vehicle section, but the diorama aspect posted here too... Revell 1949 Mercury rust rod, posed against a scrcatchbuilt street and wall. The base is a Hobbycraft frame, cut to size. The wall is made from foam board with the outer card layer taken off then marked up. The road surface is 1200 grade wet and dry paper. Phone booth from Doozy in resin is superb, and the LED lights are from smallscalelights.co.uk, who I highly recommend. Street light is scracth built from brass & plastic tube, with a 'bag stud' used s the shade and LED light from the same source as the car lights (Controlled by a 3 x AAA battery box on the rear of the wall). All the posters are from 1972 and were downloaded from the net. Photos were taken using a smart phone and a Esddi photo box mini studio (recommended! - basically a large black box with 156 LED lights at the top with adjustable brightness). Thoroughly enjoyed the build and look forward to starting the next one.
  6. The Battlle of Britain was, when I was a kid, already something mythological. These brave men, with the magnificent Spitfires and Hurricanes, who defended the last free place in Europe against the Nazi war machine. Growing older, I realised how much human effort went in to this battle. Reading more about the men, you come to understand that with this great victory and the magnificent machines, the toll on them was immense. I want to honour those men (in my own humble way) by building an Airfix Spitfire, but as a part of a diorama. I am fascinated by the photos of waiting pilots, ready to scramble. So, to complement the Spit, I'll try to build a small vignette of airmen waiting for the scramble to sound. I might fail in this, but I hope it will be a small reminder of the Few, of which so many ow so much. Next post I hope to add some pictures, still working out that since the Photobucket-disaster...
  7. So this has been my big lockdown endeavour, the 1/35 Meng 505th King Tiger with full interior. A real labour of love and a solid project to work on. I would recommend to all, but be careful with the fit of the hull as the 'scale thickness' armour means that it is very tight to secure over all of the innards. As I was working I decided I wanted a little base to display it on, which then morphed into a few figures to denote scale, which then became a lot of figures and what is almost a full diorama! My initial set of photos (apologies for the poor quality/ composition) and happy to take more if anyone is interested:
  8. Dinner on the Front (35325) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Soldiers need to eat. It’s an immutable fact, and during an advance such as those pioneered in Blitzkrieg, they need to have their feeding facilities either with them or close at hand behind the lines. During the advance into Germany by Soviet Russia toward the end of WWII, the space between battles were filled with soldiers either sleeping or eating. We’ll ignore the other stuff they may have gotten up to for decency’s sake. This new set from MiniArt depicts one such incident that could have taken place within a building or shack, where the squad takes the time to rest and enjoy a meal together before their next task. Arriving in a figure-sized shrink-wrapped top-opening box, the set includes some elements that you may have seen before, plus a set of five figures to use with these parts. There are eleven sprues in the box, one in white and the rest in grey, plus a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret of brass that supplies parts for the Samovar, handles for the pots and a few pieces of cutlery. Build up is simple as you’d expect and careful painting will be key to adding realism to the ingredients for this snapshot of life in WWII Soviet military. The scene is exactly as you see it on the box art. Five men, three sitting with food or drink, while one tends the fire, and a Commissar or Officer in a greatcoat stands and eats from a billy-can with a spoon. The soldiers all have typical leather boots and quilted uniforms, and that Soviet staple the Ushanka ear-flap hat in fur to keep their heads warm. Also included in the set is a table, pots, crockery and cutlery to fill it, a Samovar self-heating urn and a barrel-shaped wood-burning stove (how fashionable!) with large chimney. Four chairs complete the scene, but there are other Easter eggs hidden away on the sprues such as a makeshift stick rotisserie using a pair of y-shaped sticks and cross-brace, lots of odd-looking helmets, tools and sundry items from the typical soldier’s inventory, which includes plenty of rifles, PPSh machine guns, grenades and pistols. My example had a few parts rattling round inside the heat-sealed bag, but it also had a missing torso, which is a shame but won’t affect my review other than to say that this is a first for me with MiniArt, and advise you to always check your new acquisitions for possible missing parts. As always with MiniArt, the sculpting, figure breakdown and naturalistic poses is excellent, with detail incorporated everywhere and seams placed at convenient locations to minimise clean-up time. There is a page of the instructions devoted to the making and painting of the soldiers, and at the bottom of that is a list of accessories with names and painting suggestions laid out for you to copy. In addition, on the rear page of the instructions above a copy of the salient parts of the box art, you will find a selection of four posters printed for you to add to the walls of whatever dwelling you intend to place the set within. The paints called out during the build are referred to by a table on the back page that converts them to Vallejo, Mr.Color, Lifecolor, Tamiya, AK, Mission Models, Hataka, AMMO and plain English, which is always helpful. Floor not included Conclusion As is pretty standard from MiniArt, this is a great set with details that add realism everywhere you look. Good news if your Soviet soldiers are getting hungry. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  9. I see these as a 3D picture rather than a model, and I find it an extension of the paintings I usually make. I like the Miniart stuff, but the self propelled gun was a bit challenging to finish to a decent standard, but as part of a diorama some corners were cut. Close inspection via photographs show up some things that could be improved, but hey ho, overall I am pleased with the outcome, and most important I enjoyed making it. Didn't spend too much time on the figures, as the building is the main topic. Photos now: Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Hosted by Billybookcase on FLICKR Thank you for looking. Cheers BB
  10. I am new to modelling, but not new to being creative. My background, as a young lad, was diesel mechanic, welder, and avionics (RAAF). Past 20 years has been in counselling (no hand skills required). Then, out of the blue, I got roped into, by the local maritime museum, to convert an antiquated lift-span bridge console to operate a model bridge. Then I discovered that they had no model bridge and nobody to build one. Then I found out that the museum is totally run by volunteers. So I end up volunteering to build a model bridge which can be operated by the real bridge's original console (1964-1995), and have the bridge set in a diorama display of 2400 x 1200 mm (8 x 4 feet). Yes, I have to build the diorama too. I have been doing this for several months now. I am still a long way from completion. My plan here is to post photos of progress by piecemeal. Both the console and bridge lack available schematic diagrams and drawn plans. So the whole modelling aspect will have to be scratch-built. As a result, I had to extrapolate the bridge measurements from numerous photographs, reverse engineer the console, and figure out how to operate the bridge. The current bridge operator was not allowed to tell how to operate the bridge, but was able to tell me what each switch did. From this information it took me a while to figure out the operating sequence. It is not a simply matter of raising and lowering the lift-span. There is much to consider in terms of safety, and in controlling the foot, road, and vessel traffic even before raising the bridge. Anyway, the first few months was spent in compiling the information needed. Then draw up plans (bridge) and schematic diagrams (electronics) for myself to follow. Actually I still have some unfinished problems to solve. The whole bridge fits nicely within the 8 foot width using a 1/72 scale. Here is a photo of the actual bridge: The console as it arrived at the museum: Proposed display layout: Yes, there will be a model boat traversing under the raised bridge-span. It is hoped that the museum display will be interactive by the visitors (mature or not). Meaning, that the display operations need to be, as far as possible, child-proof. The last thing the museum wants is someone purposefully lowering the bridge on the traversing boat . Or any other possible out-of-sequence operations. This has become a major headache for me. Finally, as an introduction, the museum is a non-profit organisation, so it has limited funding. My task then is to build this display as cheap, yet in good quality, as possible. So please excuse my choices of materials to do the task. Both the museum curator and president as given my free rein to do this project, which is great, because I work best without a boss. Though this project seemed daunting to me, I had also found it very satisfying to see it progress along. Hope you will also enjoy watching this work in progress.
  11. Aside from brass or aluminum rods what would make some good support material for suspending a “flying” model to be displayed on? Hoping for as close to invisible as can be achieved and will want to support one or more small models from a large model. (Imagine small space ships in flight around a large space ship that’s hanging in the air from wires.
  12. Well, the title sums it up, I'm going to display my 1/350 HMS Warspite on a sea base moored to a bouy (based on photo's of her in Valetta harbour) but there seems to be no single way that battleships were moored. So as my nautical experience only stretches to yachts under 50ft I have several questions - 1) Some photo's seem to show a main anchor chain to the buoy, others seem to show a cable, is there a preference? 2) other pictures then show chains descending from the extreme of the prow into the water but what to? They seem under tension so must go to something. 3) Would there be a stern line to another buoy to hold the ship in position? Yachts usually swing with the tide or wind but several hundred feet of battleship is something else. Again pictures are not clear or consistent. 4) Would keeping an anchor ready to trip if things went awry be a standard procedure? My Googlefoo hasn't brought up any manuals online. Of course I could make it all up and no one who is likely to see the finished article would be the wiser but the detail fetishist in me wants to get it right, so I hope there is someone out there versed in mooring a big ship! Dave
  13. Garage Workshop (35596) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Garage workshops are places where you'll find tons of tools, shelves, tool boxes and all sorts, usually covered in muck and rust. During WWII garages sometimes got overrun by troops or pressed into use as temporary military workshops, and if they weren't co-opted to help the military they were likely to be used by the few vehicles still running during a period where fuel was usually a scarce commodity due to the needs of the military. The Kit This set arrives in a small shrink-wrapped top-opening box and inside are 14 sprues in grey styrene, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small decal sheet and an instruction sheet printed on both sides of a glossy A4 sheet. As well as a few instructions for the more complicated assemblies there are also posters printed in colour that can be cut out and stuck to the walls of your intended diorama, plus a colour rendering from the box art pointing out all the parts, their colours and where to place the decals on some of the cans and containers. Some of the sprues will be familiar if not identical to others from this range and there are a wide selection of items to populate your model. From the box you can build the following: 2 x fuel drums, one ribbed, the other with two ribs 1 x manual pump unit 1 x jack-stand 1 x bench-mounted grinder with two wheels 1 x pillar drill 1 x wooden tool box 1 x 2-man wood saw 1 x anvil 2 x bench vice (2 types) 3 x square fuel can of various sizes 1 x triangular profile oil can 1 x compressor 1 x hand saw 1 x box plane 1 x hacksaw 1 x blow lamp 1 x dining seat and stool 2 x 5-shelf storage unit 1 x large 8 drawer cupboard on short legs 2 x tool box, one open, one closed with a styrene and PE toolkit and PE lid There are various other small hand tools such as clamps, hammers, wrenches, oil cans and other cans dotted around the sprues and there are some decals for the cans as per the instructions. The larger assemblies are covered in the instructions and have many parts that result in faithful representations of the original that would be difficult to create yourself, but now you don't have to. Markings There are a few decals on the small sheet with their locations shown on the instructions. The various posters, 24 in total, range from car adverts through propaganda posters and even one tiny picture of a bathing scantily clad lady that is too small to make out any details. They're all in different languages too, so there will probably be one for most locations, within reason. Conclusion Another useful set from MiniArt, and even if you're not going to use them for an actual garage diorama, there's a lot of fodder for your models. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Made a slight oopsie with this one. Forgot to put the marker lights on the side, then thought I'd lost them. Luckily, rediscovered them (phew) and will install later. Until now, here's the diorama I put together with the Meng 1/35 Tigr-M and Zvezda's 1/35 Modern Russian Infantry Thanks for looking, Gaz
  15. Star Wars Hangar Crew & Equipment Vo.IV (72004 & 07219-1/72) 1:72 Greenstrawberry You've probably heard of Star Wars just like you've also probably heard of Bandai, so if you put those two together you've probably also heard of GreenStrawberry and if you haven't you're about to, so prepare your wallet for a shock when you see all the lovely sets that are available. GS as I call them for my ease produce all sorts of accessories and detail upgrades for Sci-Fi subjects in general and Star Wars is one that features heavily on their menu. This latest batch of sets are great for the diorama builder that wants to put their ships into a human scale on the ground, and we reviewed the first issue here a while back, which is now augmented by these new sets. Each set arrives in a small black-themed card box with CGI rendered sticker on the front showing the contents. Inside the resin is ziplok bagged and has a small instruction sheet where appropriate. Hangar Crew Vol.IV (72004) Three figures are included in this set, each of them attached by the soles of their boots to their casting blocks and their arms standing up by their sides, all surrounded by wafer-thin supports to aid the ingress of resin and egress of bubbles. There are also some wisps of resin adhering to the parts where the moulds have been split, and these can be removed with your fingertip or a sharp blade. These folks are all pilots dashing to their ships, presumably during a squadron scramble, and are in action poses as befits the occasion. Two are running, one of which is adjusting his helmet as he goes, and the third figure is clambering up his boarding ladder with the usual butt-out pose adopted to balance while climbing aboard. Only the helmet-adjuster has his arms moulded in place, so there is some room for adaptation of their arms to suit your needs, which might be useful for the ladder climbing chap. Hangar Equipment Vo.IV (07219-1/72) Like the previous sets, this one includes a set of five boxes of various types and sizes and you will have seen a couple of those in previous sets if you've been paying attention. There are two rounded-edge boxes with horizontal lines engraved in their sides, a flat stackable box with an irregular outline, a box with fluted protective vanes all over it, and finally a pack of four cylinders on a palette. Very useful for background clutter that accumulates on even the most fastidiously clean hangar decks and gives a diorama that lived-in look. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Got another one. This was actually my original Division diorama idea that I finally put together. The vehicle and figures (once again) were painted up some time ago. I just decided to bite the bullet and do the snow Enjoy Thanks for looking ^-^ Gaz
  17. German Road Signs WWII – France 1944 (35600) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd During WWII German forces renamed and re-signposted their conquests, partly through necessity but also to stake their claim and remind the subjugated masses that they were under German control. This set is full of signs of this nature, and includes military signs to guide their troops to rally points, service areas and so forth as they didn't have the luxury of GPS and satnav back then, which is probably just as well. The set arrives in a shrink-wrapped figure box with a painting of the contents on the front and brief instructions on the rear. There are three medium-sized sprues in grey styrene in the box, plus a decal sheet on thick paper that contains all the painted descriptive fronts of the signs. As well as the signs themselves there are a number of posts on which to hang then, one of which is a two-part telegraph pole with ceramic insulators on short metal arms from which you can hang wires loose as shown in the diagrams, or taut if you have something to attach them to. Each sign is either metal or moulded with a restrained wooden texture that will show through the decals if you use decal solution during drying. Some of the larger signs are also made from a few planks, so the joins will also show through the decal. On the sprue that contains the pole there are also additional undocumented parts for poles and such, which you could also press into service if you can figure out how to put them together. There are forty two signs so there will be a few decals left over, and on the back of the box you can see a few examples of these make-shift signs pinned in groups to the various posts, but it's entirely up to you how you lay them out. Conclusion Dioramas rely on the minutiae of the background to give that "lived in" look to the terrain, and signage is essential for all but the straightest of roads. The addition of the telegraph pole gives extra depth to any road scene, and the painting guide helps with painting the plastic parts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Hi all, here is the final reveal for the 1/12 Halcyon Power Loader and 1/12 Halcyon Alien Queen Diorama. For the third and final segment I built the base from MDF (Medium density fibreboard) with some 2mm aluminium checker plate for RC trucks, which I added to the floor and another rotary light in red. I also used some Trumpeter decal trays for the grills and loading deck with some LED strip lights inside them. The Queens Vinyl legs are solid inside, but I have been warned by a fellow modeller that they can sag, so I drilled them out and added some cotton bud sticks coated in epoxy. This seems to have a made them now solid. The diorama also fits perfectly on my coffee table! Finally, you can see the work in progress of my build here.
  19. “The sound of bullets tearing through canvas, wood, and metal; the young pilot’s heart thumps in his chest. That last burst missed his goggled helmet by mere inches. He desperately throws the control column left and right, presses the rudder bar with all his waning strength, but his attacker is in a far better machine and is far more experienced. The enemy stays doggedly on his tail, hurling more lead at his machine. As the fight gets lower and lower, he prays that his luck holds out. Tearing canvas, water pouring from the holed radiator, a stuttering engine and the smell of fuel indicate that his trusty steed is mortally wounded. The fight is over. Finding the nearest clearing, the young pilot throws the groaning machine to the earth. It rumbles along the rough ground, now under its own control. Knowing he is now a passenger along for the ride, the young pilot tightens his shoulder harness in preparation for the inevitable sudden stop. His craft lurches of the bank of a small river, it’s shark-like nose ending its days unceremoniously dumped into the muddy water. The young pilot is dazed, but alive. What was terror now turns to anger with the release of the tension. He tears of his goggles, throws his harness off, and climbs onto the spine of his machine to take stock of his luck. As his victor flies over the scene, waggling his wings, the young pilot hurls his fist at the enemy; “You win this time”, he screams. He may have been vanquished, but he has lived to fight another day”. Hi all – I hope you don’t mind the melodramatic start to the post! This rough idea is the back story behind my latest completion, a small crash diorama based on the 1/48 scale Eduard Albatros DVa. This is a project that I’ve had in mind since way back in 2006 when I first saw Stan Stokes’ painting called “Gotcha”: This was my first time at modelling terrain, and modelling water. I made plenty of mistakes (many of them are obvious) but it was a good learning experience. The aircraft itself was modified to incorporate battle damage, in order to help tell some of the story.! The aircraft personal and unit markings are fictional, but broadly represent markings of the mid 1918 period. I included a four-leaf clover motif on the fuselage to help with the idea that the pilot’s luck has held out. The pilot is a modified figure using various bits and pieces I had in the spares box. I gave him a set of goggles that he’s holding in his left hand. I am definitely NOT a figure painter, as you can see Progress pictures of all aspects of the build are in the following threads: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10149.0 https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052386-vanquished/ Anyway, here are some more pictures: I welcome all feedback – as I said, this was my first time tackling terrain and water effects, so I’m sure there are plenty of tips out there that you all can give me. Cheers! BC
  20. Hi ! Building a 1/32 scale Luftwaffe diorama with a large hanger. I'm about to paint the hanger but need some colour references. I can se in a lot of ww2 pictures the hangers and some service buildings är painted in camo patterns, but of course, I can't se what colors. Some help to get color reference would be great ! Regards Stefan from Sweden
  21. Hello folks! Well, this is going to be my first attempt at a simple sea diorama (EEP!!), and I would appreciate any tips and techniques from you lovely people (unashamed groveling). These kits are great value and lend themselves to improvement so out with the platicard and don the thinking cap! Wasn't happy with the size and positioning of the round windows (yes, watch playschool!), and hull needs detailing etc so filled in the scuttles (smarty pants) and so the adventure begins... The etch was purchased from a hobby shop in Poland at a reasonable cost. Thanks for looking, Andy
  22. Hi here is my last diorama spitfire mk 1 from airfix (oldest mold) albion refueller and figures from airfix (BoB kit)
  23. So after 18 months of on and off again progress on these Airfix Hurricane's, the 249 Squadron build is finally completed. Info on the pilots below: F/O Percival Ross-Frames “Percy” Burton 6 June 1917- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 74348. 1 Confirmed air victory 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 V6683 (GN-H) On the morning of September 27th 1940 the squadron engaged a formation of Me110’s of V/LG1. The Hurricanes broke the Germans’ two defensive circles and the enemy aircraft went south at low level, heading for the Channel. Burton pursued one of the 110’s for about forty miles, often at little more than treetop height, but the German pilot, the Gruppe Kommandeur of V/LGI, Hauptmann Horst Liensberger, was unable to shake him off. Just north of Hailsham, Burton’s guns stopped firing (presumably due to being out of ammunition) and the two aircraft skimmed over the rooftops. The Hurricane, V6883, was above and behind the Me110. Burton suddenly banked and made whatappeared to be an attack. Both machines lurched and an object spun away. The tail unit of the110 dropped into a field, followed by the rest of the aircraft. The falling object was the wingtip of Burton’s Hurricane. His aircraft crashed into a huge oak tree on New Barn Farm, throwing its dead pilot clear and burning itself out in a field. The German crew were buried in Hailsham Cemetery but were exhumed after the war and buried elsewhere. Burton is buried in St Andrew’s churchyard, Tangmere. Eye-witness reports indicate strongly that he deliberately rammed the Me110. A letter from Fighter Command to the Hailsham ARP Chief said that Burton was to be recommended for a posthumous gallantry award. This could only have been the VC but in fact he only received a Mention in Despatches due to a VC being awarded to the squadron a few weeks earlier. He was promoted from Pilot Officer to Flying Officer 26/9/40. In 1980 a road on a housing estate near to the site of the crash site was named ‘Burton Walk’ in his memory. P/O James Reginald Bryan Meaker DFC 19 January 1919- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 42514. 7 Confirmed air victories 46 Squadron Digby & 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 P5206 (GN-L) On 24th February 1940 Meaker was posted to 12 Group Pool Aston Down, to convert to Hurricanes. It was around this time he was involved in a mid air collision with another squadron member though both pilots baled out successfully. He joined 46 Squadron at Digby on 31st March. After a short spell on flying duties at 27 MU, Meaker was posted to 263 Squadron at Scapa Flow on 4th May. The squadron’s Gladiators were loaded on to HMS Furious, which sailed for Norway on 14th May. They were unloaded on the 21st and began standing patrols. The squadron was withdrawn on 7th June and Meaker returned to Britain by sea. Meaker joined 249 Squadron at Leconfield in late June. On 15th August Meaker claimed a Me110 destroyed, on the 24th a Me109, on 2nd September he destroyed a Me110, shared a Do17 and damaged another, on the 6th destroyed two Me109’s and on the 15th he destroyed two Do17’s, shared a probable Do17 and damaged a Me109. On the morning of 27th September 1940, J.R.B Meaker shared in the destruction of a Me110 in the same engagement that led to the demise of his squadron mate P.R.F Burton. Later that afternoon in a separate engagement while attacking a group of five JU-88’s on his own, his plane was hit by defensive fire and upon bailing out, his head struck the tail section of his Hurricane P3834 and he fell dead with an unopened parachute. Meaker is buried in West Dean Cemetery, Sussex. He was awarded the DFC (gazetted 8th October 1940). In 1990 a memorial was placed near the spot where he was killed
  24. Building 1/72 control tower based on US 8th Airforce Museum in Ohio (actual recreated RAF conrtol tower) - I am having issues determining how to create the pebble dash effect on the sheet styrene; Any thoughts? sand? Golden pumice gel?
  25. Star Wars Hangar Crew & Equipment 1:72 GreenStrawberry That low-budget cult classic from LucasFilm is back again, this time with accessories to liven up any diorama that you may wish to create with your massive stash of Bandai kits, or indeed any other 1:72 Star Wars kit. Thinking of it, they'd be pretty useful with any 1:72 Sci-Fi model, with maybe a little adjustment to remove any of the more obvious Star Wars design cues. Each set arrives in a small card box, with the figures in a tiny ziplok bag, a sheet of instructions where necessary doing the job of protecting them from rattling about too much too. The detail is good (remember that they're blown up to approx. 5x real size on my screen), with the casting blocks sensibly placed and a few wisps of flash from where the moulds have been cut to enable casting of parts with gaps, such as legs etc. The range is expanding as we speak (type?), and this is just the first of the range, as follows: Hangar Crew Vol.I (72001) Pilot with mechanics on inspection Containing three figures, two of which have one separate arm, and one having two separate arms, you get a rather heroic-looking moustachioed pilot figure with chest out and a wide stance, a chap with the SW equivalent of a clipboard perusing same, and the third chap is stooping whilst possibly leaning against something. Hangar Crew Vol.II (72002) A-Wing and Y-Wing pilots Three resin pilots discussing tactics or previous battles using the tried-and-tested method involving hands and the waving around thereof. One pilot is kneeling, and has a separate arm, while the others are standing and gesticulating in their flight gear. All three have the requisite helmets for their rides – two Y-wing jockeys and one A-Wing flier. Hangar Crew Vol.III (72003) mechanics and power droid A 1:72 Gonk droid! Sure, you get two mechanics, one striding toward something, the other kneeling to inspect something with his monster clipboard, but you also get a 1:72 Gonk Droid! He's made up of top and bottom halves, plus a pair of little short legs with tissuebox feet. Awesome! Hangar Equipment Vol.III (06718-1/72) This is a simple set that just requires the casting blocks sawing off and making good. It contains four items commonly found in hangars in the Star Wars universe. An inexpertly stacked block of those funny Holocron-shaped packing cubes, a large ribbed box, a smaller stackable "monitor stand" box, and a bundle of cylinders on a palette. Conclusion This will take much of the hard work out of building a layered diorama of a hangar bay, as it's usually the background objects and their candid nature that makes for a good diorama. There is also a Maintenance ramp that will look superb in the background, which we hope to review soon. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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