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Found 10 results

  1. In the summer of 1985, while I was stationed at Spangdahlem AB, Germany, my squadron hosted members of the Danish ESK-729 RF-35 Draken unit. They brought several jets to Spang. I almost got a ride in a 2 seater but the weather that day was below their weather minimums. Hey, it was Germany, not California. A couple of weeks later I was lucky enough to take one of our F-4Es to Karup AB, Denmark and spend 2 weeks there. I think we took 6 jets and 10 crews, plus a maintenance unit. Good times... Since then I have wanted to build a model of the RF-35. Hasegawa is the only option in 1/48th, and it's a pretty good kit. Great detail, nice fit but not perfect, the right parts for a Danish Draken (mostly). I started the kit about 7 years ago then got stuck on what shade of Green to paint it. I looked at a build review on Modelling Madness, compared photos, tried various shades of Testors Model Master and Tamiya. Then it was time to move from Houston, Tx to the Portland, Oregon area, so the kit went into the box and sat for 4 years. I finally pulled it out last month and pressed on. My memory of the Drakens on 1985 was that they were an olive drab, very glossy, and very clean. Airliners.net has some excellent phots that show several different shades of green, depending on the lighting and camera settings. I ended up going 50/50 Testors Model Master enamel Green Drab 34086 and Olive Drab 34087. I think it looks about right from my memories and available photos. Of course I always kick myself for not having a decent camera then and taking more pictures. I have none of the exchange visit. To try to make the kit a bit more accurate I bought a set of Eduard resin Danish Draken pylons. The kit pylons are incorrect for the Danish jet. I used kit decals except for the "slime light" formation light strips. Almost all kit decals have these as a bright yellow. They are a dull yellow. I have a very old decal sheet from Detail & Scale that has light strips, in 1/48, for several US jets of the 80s, and a 4 x 4 inch section of solid formation light color. I was able to use this to cut out the Draken wingtip light decals. I also used the Master brass pitot and AoA probe. Apparently I made a mistake when ordering these since I ended up with a 1/72nd scale set. It took over 1 month to get them from an online shop so I used them anyway. The AoA probe is probably the same part in all of the sets and the pitot boom is maybe slightly short, but it looks ok as is. For all but the forward looking angled camera windows I used Micro Kristal Klear (white glue) to make the camera windows after all painting was done. I had one near disaster when attempting a panel line wash, but fixed that problem, mostly, and pressed on. I'm happy to have this kit completed and joining my other 1/48th kits on the shelf. Hope you like it, I haven't seen many of these very cool-looking jets on the model forums.
  2. Four F-16s of Eskadrille 727, Royal Danish Air Force, at Nellis AFB for Red Flag 84-4, Jun 1984. 80-3600, E-600 80-3601, E-601 80-3609, E-609 80-3614, ET614 Esk 727 badge Interception target identification light Thanks for looking, Sven
  3. Hi, I'm visiting Copenhagen and having an awesome time. I'd like to pick up a hobby souvenir. I see one hobby shop in Google, in the Fredericksburg area, but it looks tiny. Is there anything else anyone might recommend? Anything across the bridge in Malmo?
  4. Rarely do I post a finished build, but perhaps the amount of builds started would leverage that.... No. This Draken has been ready since about June, but other commitments (some of them can be applied as decals to 1/144 F4D, F-14s, F-15Es and F-16s - if one would follow the Shelf Oddity trace) stood in the way of doing proper photos. The kit is F-Toys, sripped of the factory applied paint with the help of Wamod Acrylic Cleaner. Underneath the original paint you will see crisp panel lines, some fine details and loads of potential. The weakest part of the kit (or of all F-Toys kits in general) is the canopy. Recently Brengun began to release vac-formed replacements, so this is less of an issue. Gear doors in this kit had been replaced with prototype PE parts, some antennas added from the same fret, pitot and fin spike from Master. I scratch-built the main undercarriage legs, which ...kinda shows - I took the liberty of presenting only the photos that do not display this unwanted feature. Tail bumper-wheel were also scratchbuilt. The Danish art of mantainence was the desired end effect: RLM02 from Valejo used as base and Hataka Blue Line B025 Interior Green for extensive touch-ups. Selected touch-ups received glossy highlight. In 1/144 two additional layers of paint, applied with the brush produce some noticable bumps.... Some panel lines were accented, some smoke stains added (a little too much?)... The finished model goes like this: And well, that's it, really.
  5. I'd never even heard of this aircraft until I saw the Stoppel kit advertised, then I desperately needed one of course. It's a lovely little kit (the mouldings reminded me of recent Special Hobby kits), all I added were seat harnesses and a few tiny details like aerials and foot steps.
  6. The Williams paint shop has just wheeled out its latest creation in the form of a further Super Sabre. This time it is an F-100D operated by the Flyvevåbnet, the Royal Danish Air Force. I had wanted to build one of these highly weathered and touched up machines for a long time. It is built by following my previous and successful method of merging the Esci and Trumpeter kits, using the slatted wing of the latter. This produces the most representative 1/72 model, being accurate all round rather than using the Trumpeter kit straight and tolerating the narrow cockpit and inaccurate intake. The Esci has the right dimensions and accepts the wings easily. The downside is that you lose the extra detail of the Trumpeter! Hey ho! I did get lazy at one point and elected not to set the tail plane on a pivot, as I did with my C-model, so that it I could sit with this slightly tilted back as they were without the hydraulics powered up. Some sat without this tilt and so it convinced me. I have depicted her as a G-744 as I imagine she was shortly before being transferred to the Turkish Air Force via Aviano AB, Italy in 1981-82 and thereafter operated by the 8th Main Jet Base, Konya. I referenced images (including those below) from a while before this time and at the time of transfer, producing what I feel is a reasonable compromise. Of course, in Turkish service the ex-Danish machines never went for depot maintenance - flying them until they wore out - and so weathered and weathered more and more until they finally stopped and were retired! My reference images included: What did I do? Well: Used Esci kit plus Trumpeter wings, slats, pylons, wing tanks, main gear legs and doors. Drilled out the intake to give more depth Drilled out the rear fuselage to accommodate the jet pipe and refine the edges Used Aires jet pipe with the kit “F-102”-style afterburner can, modified to make it more accurate. Aires cockpit set with a Pavla Martin Baker seat (as close to Mk5 as I could) Removed the wing fences Added wing tip RHAW antennas made from plastic rod, TACAN aerial on top of the nose, additional nose blade aerials (RWR, UHF, Old Bullpup) Added static disperser to the rear of the fin (using a fine house brush fibre) Added new nav light on top of the fuselage from plastic rod, mid way, and lights on the RHAW pods on the wings. The paint scheme was achieved by using a lightened (with white) Humbrol 86 Light Olive Drab with a 116 US Dark Green (FS34079) to add the re-painted seams, etc. The rear end was painted 1) Humbrol 191 and then 2) Humbrol 63 Sand in light airbrush strokes so the 191 shows through a little. Then I used Tamiya Weathering Sets to add variation all over – Green, Silver and Oil stain primarily. Here and there I used a very fine sanding stick to buff up areas that got some wear and tear. I weathered her with Flory Dirt. The decals are the excellent Stoppel set, which includes great stencils and technical markings. The only thing I had to make was the serial (including the tail) because there wasn’t two “4”s to make the G-744. I printed these on my computer. I had some great guidance from Jens on the forum too. :). Thanks Jens. I hope you like her. These are not the best images. When I get my daylight lamps set up I will re--post. Martin
  7. This is the brand new special scheme to celebrate 37 years of Lynx service in the Danish armed forces. The port side represents the ongoing task around Greenland where the Danish Lynx is present 24/7/365. The starboard side represents the international operations (mostly in and around the Somali basin). The Danish Lynx fleet is gradually being retired, and the last Lynx will be retired by the end of 2017. Jens
  8. Hi all, A couple of questions for the all-knowing collective.... Does anyone know where I can get a 3-view plan, overhead particularly, of Super Sabres with the Danish wing tip ECM pods? Does anyone know where I can source a better afterburner can for a machine upgraded to the "F-102"-style? The kit offering is woefully in accurate. Thanks ain advance. Martin
  9. Hi all! Another question - and maybe Jens knows - what are the zaps on the nose of G-744 here? Thanks advance yet again, Martin
  10. A fun build that was planned to be OOB, but thanks to Jens on this forum, I discovered that I didn't build a TF-104G, but a Canadair CF-104D. So a few minor modifications were made. The kit is excellent, great fit almost everywhere (and where I had problems, they were certainly due to my own limitations). Painting Danish Starfighters is a real challenge. They were parked outside, and heavily weathered. And yes, the tanks (on this individual) were actually glossy. Later, all Starfighters (and Drakens) were re-painted in gloss green. And much more boring. The decals are from Danish Hobby Shop Stoppel. Not bad, but not excellent. They were very thin, but a little bit blurry. I had some silvering problems with them, but I managed to solve most of it. Stupidly, the squadron badge was not included on the sheet, but I was lucky enough to find a similar one among my spare decals. New position lights on the rear part of the body replaced the original ones. First, the model was primed with Tamiya yellow. Then, I painted the weathered camouflage with Gunze colours, a number of different green colours were used. And once again, this was a really enjoyable build! There will certainly be more Danes in the future!
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