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So here we have the final pics of my mammoth HK models 1:32 Lancaster Mk. B.I Special build. The finished aircraft looks spectacular from a sheer size perspective, as you can see from the picture with the 1' rule for scale. The inaccuracies for a kit costing over £300 are well documented and the fixes I've employed are far too numerous to list fully here. But a few have been: Complete rebuild of pilot's plinth and replacement of seat Removal of erroneous dinghy hatch on port wing Lengthening of Navigators table to match specs Addition of accurate instrumentation for a BI not the Mk. X Fit a B.I Flight Engineer's seat as opposed to a Mk. X Fit swivel navigator's seat as opposed to fixed one supplied Install "washing line" canvas sunscreens in canopy Remove erroneous wooden slatting from upkeep mine Built and fit hydraulic submarine motor to spin up mine. Move trailing radio aerial from starboard to port side. I've tried to take a few pics of the iconic shots from 1943 prior to the mission and I've included these as a bit of fun. It's now on its way to a new owner, which is just as well as, with a 1m wingspan, the wife would kill me if I said I was keeping it. Thanks to: Peter at Airscale for his always immaculate cockpit upgrades Top Notch for the insignia masks Thanks for looking as ever. For those interested, the link to the build is HERE
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I'm wanting to build a 617 Sqn Lancaster from the dams raid but my starting point will be the 1980's Airfix Dambusters kit. Clearly this is less detailed than the newer release so I'm using the instructions from the newer kit to help fill in some of the missing details. Apologies if these questions have been answered before but Googling doesn't give me any answers. 1) The ventral gun I have found a thread on this site so have some information. 2) Towel Rail aerial, is this correct for a DB Lancaster? 3) Part G.12, is this one of the spotlights? If so, it seems to be pointing backwards. 4) What is part G.7? I've seen it on other Lancasters and it's the wrong (pilot's) side to be the forward spotlight. Outlet for a trailing aerial perhaps? 5) If G.7 and G.12 aren't spotlights, where should they be other than in the "nose" and "tail" as most references dictate? 6) The mine itself. Airfix would have one apply red and yellow stripes around the mine. I would suppose from normal RAF practice that the mine would be marked to indicate the filling (torpex?) so how accurate are the Airfix instructions? Photos of Gibson's a/c don't show any form of light band on the mine that I can see. Any other pointers that I need to follow (I already know that I'll have to drill out the windows in the fuselage)? Thanks in advance. Clive Sorry I can't seem to link to the instructions on Scalemates for assistance. Clive.
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This build has been on and off for the last two and a half years. Appropriately enough I finished it now, exactly 80 years after the famous dams raid the night between 16th and 17th of May 1943. The build was relatively trouble free, just a lot of filling and sanding to blend everything together as well as a quite labour intensive masking job for all the clear parts. A masking set would have been a clever investment. Feel free to comment and critique Isak
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AVRO Lancaster B.III Special (A09007A) The Dam Busters 1:72 Airfix Few aircraft have the ability to capture the imagination and affection of the public, but the Lancaster surely ranks as one of them, especially close to the British public’s hearts. The basic design of the Lancaster evolved from the uninspiring Avro Manchester, which although its design was sound, its performance in service was significantly undermined by its chronically unreliable and underpowered Rolls Royce Vulture engines, of which there were only two. Avro's Chief Designer resolved the problem by proposing an improved version with a larger wing and four of the less powerful, but far more reliable, Rolls Royce Merlin engines. The longer wingspan was achieved by inserting an inner panel with a constant chord between the fuselage and existing wing, mounting the inner engines and landing gear in this area. They also removed the ugly central fin from the tail, giving the distinctive H-tail that we know so well. Initially designated the Manchester III, the aircraft was renamed the Lancaster and entered service in 1942, the same year that the Manchester was retired from front line service. Once in service, the Lancaster proved to be an excellent aircraft, and was soon loved by its crews. Its vast bomb bay could accommodate any bomb in the RAF's wartime inventory, right up to the 12,000lb blockbuster, and later in the war the aircraft was adapted to carry a range of special weapons, including the innovative Upkeep mine and the huge 22,000lb Grand Slam bomb, both designed by renowned scientist and engineer Barnes Wallis. The Lancaster's place in history was secured on the night of the 16th/17th May 1943, when a force of 19 adapted Lancasters of the specially formed 617 Squadron attacked a group of four dams in the heart of Germany's Ruhr Valley. 23 aircraft were adapted by removing the standard bomb bay doors and mid-upper turret, as well as removing much of the armour normally carried, in order to save weight. A large trestle-mount for the weapon was installed along with a motor to add backspin to the bomb that would result in it skipping more effectively to obtain sufficient range to skate into the dam wall and roll down under water before detonating a few seconds later for maximum explosive efficiency, using the weight of water to concentrate the explosion. The aircraft carried the cylindrical Upkeep mine, that is popularly referred to as the bouncing bomb, another brainchild of Barnes Wallis that was designed specifically for use against these dams. As a result of the raids, the Möhne and Edersee dams were breached, and two hydro-electric power stations on a third dam were destroyed, causing massive flooding and the loss of electrical power for hundreds of factories in the region, affecting production of critical war materials for months after. Eight of the participating aircraft failed to return, having been victims of accidents, enemy action, and flak, and of the 133 crew who took part, 53 were lost and three were captured. 34 of the survivors were decorated, with the leader of the raid, Wing Commander Guy Gibson, awarded the Victoria Cross. The surviving airframes remained on charge for the rest of the war, but were never used again, while 617 squadron saw plenty of action, often using special weapons to carry out their missions, with an enviable reputation that lingers today. The Kit This is a reboxing of the 2013 release of a newly tooled design, replacing their ageing offering that was well past its sell-by date. The kit arrives in a large red-themed box with a dramatic digital painting of a Lanc releasing its mine over water, while the enemy try to bring it down. Inside the box are six sprues in darker grey styrene, a large clear sprue, decal sheet, instruction booklet with spot colour, and full colour A3 sheet of profiles to assist you with applying paint and decals. As this is a rebox, many of you will know that the detail is excellent, especially on the surface and the main focal areas of attention, such as cockpit and gear bays, plus of course the bomb bay of this famous heavy bomber. Once you’ve received your kit, be sure to check your fuselage sprues, as our sample had two port sprues, but Airfix quickly remedied that swiftly with a replacement. It’s better to check now however, rather than finding you need one in ten years’ time. For a little light relief, construction begins with the bomb bay roof, which is prepared by removing a small raised detail, which is identified by a useful scrap diagram, then drilling out some holes and adding the D-shaped forward and aft bulkheads, followed by gluing the two main spars with hoops that permit the crew to scramble fore and aft if necessary, adding some paint if you feel it will be seen through the side windows, and especially at the extreme ends of the spars where they pass through the gear bays. The cockpit is created by making up the single pilot’s seat, which has a separate back inserted into a slot in the seat pan, installing it on a small raised platform and adding the optional pilot figure if you wish. He has a yoke-style control column placed in front of him, then the assembly is slotted into the front of the bomb bay/cockpit floor, fitting the instrument panel on a central stalk and gluing the rudder pedals to the rear, while applying a decal to the forward face, removing an inconvenient ejector-pin mark before you get busy with paint and decals. That then slots into the floor, resting against a notch in the raised dias before switching attention to preparing the fuselage halves by painting the sections that will be visible, including the instrument boxes, including the engineer panel in the starboard half that receives a decal later. The side windows are placed in their recesses in several sections, including small individual panes in the bomb-aimer’s area of the nose. The redundant bomb bay door hinges should be cut away before you slide the interior assembly into the port side, locating the spars into the corresponding holes in the fuselage sides. The bomb sight is glued into the nose on the port side, making up the navigator and radio operator’s station, adding dial decals to the black boxes, and a decal depicting charts on the table before inserting it into the port fuselage behind the pilot’s station. The missing mid-upper turret is covered by a curved insert, and another circular insert is placed in a hole below the turret’s location, although in later drawings it morphs into something different, which is probably down to re-using drawings from other boxings. The starboard fuselage half is prepared in a similar manner, painting, applying windows and removing the hinges, whilst adding a stool for the flight engineer next to the decaled panel on the wall nearby. With that done, the fuselage can be closed and the seams dealt with, a task that will be much easier if you test-fit and adjust any discrepancies that you may find. The gear bays are made from four inserts that slot in between the two ends of the spars, adding detail of the internal structure of the wing and a couple of visible ribs, a task that is performed on both sides. A rear bulkhead is glued behind the spar, then the upper wing halves are applied to the top after painting the area around it in black and interior green, then painting the flap bays, which have some good rib and stringer detail moulded-in. The lower wings with their bay and flap cut-outs are glued home over the upper wing halves, taking care to align everything carefully, adding the underwing landing lights before gluing, then dealing with any seams after the glue has cured. The two tail fins have separate elevators, each element made from two halves, then inserted into the fuselage sides using the usual slot and tab, and allowing you to deflect the elevators if you wish. The vertical lozenge-shaped rudders and fins are installed later, and they too have separate flying surfaces, although each part is a single thickness thanks to their slender frontal profile, fixing balance horns during the assembly. The inner engine nacelles are substantially larger than the outers, so their construction steps are different. The process starts by making up the outboard nacelles, starting with assembling two sets of radiator exhaust trunking to insert in the nacelle halves as they are closed together. The cooling flap is fitted over the recessed trunking and can be set to open or closed position by checking your references for the correct angles. On the nacelle sides, exhaust flame hiders are glued in place, with a pair of cheek-mounted intakes below them, noting that the nacelles are handed, so use different parts accordingly. The inner nacelles have similar exhaust trunkings made up to be inserted in the longer nacelles to be covered over by cooling flaps after the nacelle halves are brought together, and as these nacelles aren’t handed, they are built in tandem, including the same exhaust hiders and intakes on the cheeks. The inner nacelles are fitted over the gear bays first, then the outer nacelles are fixed into their depressions nearer the wingtips, then if you are posing your model in flight, you can close the main gear bays by snipping off the actuators and putting a pair of doors over each one. If you are building your model with wheels down, the large twin-strut legs are inserted into the model from above, through the hole left by the as-yet missing fairings, then supporting them by the twin retraction jacks that have additional struts linking them to both the legs and the bay roof, with a scrap diagram showing where they sit within the bay, and another scrap diagram showing where the bay door openers are located on the sides of the gear legs once glued in place. Behind the inner nacelles are the flap bays, which are to receive their flaps next, making up the inner section with the rearmost fairing of the inner nacelle first, using different parts depending on whether you are posing them deployed or not. The outer flap panels are each single parts, that have their hinge-points nipped off if you aren’t deploying them, with a pair of helpful scrap diagrams showing the finished flaps in both poses. It is also worth noting that the internal detail on the flaps is excellent, well-worth the effort of posing them open and painting them. Moving to the leading edges of the wings, the four fairings that blend the engine nacelles into the aerofoil shape are all individually shaped, and should be very difficult to place incorrectly as a result. This step also shows the deck behind the cockpit cut-out and around the nose turret painted black in preparation for later steps, then the afore mentioned rudders are installed. The customisation of the bomb bay to accommodate the highly unusual bomb load is next, adding the fairing behind the bomb, which hides a flashed over slot for an Airfix stand or where you could drill your own if you are making a custom stand, plus one of the twin lamps that allowed the bomb aimer to gauge their height over the lake accurately when the two beams aligned on the water. The auxiliary motor that puts backspin on the bomb is made from two halves on a palette that is attached via the holes drilled in the bay roof earlier, then the two side frames that suspend the bomb are fitted to the outer skin of the bomb bay on pins, which was a surprise to me, as I’d never noticed their location before. A curved frame is inserted across the bay to support the back of the shortened bomb bay doors that cover the bay forward of the bomb for aerodynamic purposes, with the spindle of the motor projecting from a hole in the starboard door, onto which the pulley and drive-belt are fixed, the other end clipping to the pivot point on the bomb frame, plus another spacer on the opposite pivot to centralise the bomb on the frame. The bomb is left off for now, switching to installing the two-part anti-shimmy tail-wheel in its yoke and inserting it into the hole in the tail, adding a couple of actuators under the elevators, and a towel-rail antenna just forward of the tail wheel. The main wheels are also made from two halves and have a flat moulded-in to depict the airframe’s weight pressing down on them. Under the nose, a glazed panel fills a rectangular void under the bomb aimer, with the domed front window and the other altitude sensing light is glued into a circular panel, showing that you need to cut a little of the styrene out there, making a narrow trench into which the base of the lamp fits. The crucial tail-gunner’s position is built from a floor, with gun support glued on, painting it all black before you add the glazing then the back cover, before inserting the two pairs of twin .303 machine gun barrels from the outside, most likely after main painting is finished to protect them from damage. The fairing that connects it with the fuselage is made from two halves, and the two sub-assemblies are glued into place, moving on to the front turret, which differs because the twin guns are inserted first, with a section of framework glued over them, adding the glazing and rear cover last. The nose turret fits in place in the nose, with an antenna under the nose and the D/F loop installed inside the cockpit rear deck, with the astrodome separate from the canopy with an opening in the fuselage to accurately represent the area. The main glazing has the side frames separate as some Lancs flew with or without blisters to aid the crew’s view from the aircraft, and this boxing uses the blister type, installing it over the cockpit and pre-installed D/F loop, and fitting the fairing over the nose turret at the same time. The intakes for the Merlin engines are missing from the nacelles at this stage, as they are moulded into the propeller’s back-plate, fitting the spinner plate and one-part three-bladed prop to it with a styrene pin, and adding the spinner front over the top, doing that a total of four times to the engines, and adding aileron actuators as you do it. You have two options for the ‘Upkeep’ bouncing bomb, with a trailer supplied on the sprues that has towing hook, handbrake, and a wheel on each corner, plus a crutch on which the bomb will rest. The bomb itself has its casing made from two halves, into which the detailed end caps are fitted, with a decal wrapped around one end of the cylinder. The choice is whether to mount the bomb on the trolley or on the aircraft by flexing the frames apart slightly. Markings This was a single mission of great importance that involved just nineteen Lancasters to breach the dams in the industrial heartland of the Ruhr valley, and it would be churlish not to include the mission leader, Guy Gibson. All the aircraft wore the same camouflage scheme, and were differentiated only by their squadron codes. We only get two options, but it wouldn’t be difficult to acquire additional codes to portray any of the participants. From the box you can build one of the following: AJ-G flown by Wing Commander Guy Gibson, Commanding Officer, ‘Operation Chastise’, No.617 Sqn., RAF Scampton, England, 16/17th May 1943 AJ-W flown by Squadron Leade John Leslie (Les) Munro, ‘Operation Chastise’, No.617 Sqn., RAF Scampton, England, 16/17th May 1943 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The instrument decals are printed without a background, so that you don’t have to match any colours, which is always nice. Conclusion A welcome reboxing of the newly-tooled Lancaster in 1:72 just in time for the mission’s anniversary that ticks all the boxes. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Im in with a late entry - have been building over a couple of weeks. V small for my eyes, but picked up cheap in Tokyo when I was working over at the Olympics... Box and part pics... Fairly straightforward, apparently some wrong bits on it, no decals for Skyflash, too many wheels for nose gear, will just use the 2, will remove the radar housing on the nose as building against the online refs also the Corgi collectable! Link to a nice 1/72 Airfix build... https://www.fightercontrol.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=124124
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Scheduled for October 8th : Aviation historian Victoria Taylor's The Dambuster Legend in wartime Britain. https://www.rafmuseum.org.uk/london/whats-going-on/events/trenchard-lecture-the-dambuster-legend-in-wartime/#.X2x8WkL-tFg.twitter For those not familiar, Victoria also presented the recent RAF Benevolent Fund podcast series about the Battle of Britain, and featured on the WW2Podcast channel.
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We saw Dunkirk during the year that passed and we have the upcoming movie "Hurricane" in the future... But what is happening with Peter Jacksons "Dambusters", Tom Hanks and HBO's "The Mighty Eight" and Ridley Scott's "Battle of Britain"? Are those projects abandoned?
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Hello ladies and gents, Kit manufacture: Hobby Boss Scale: 1/72 Type: P-51C Mustang Extras used: Xtradecal set X72-093 Paints and colours used: Primer Stynelryz Grey; Paints Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Grey, Tamiya XF-81 RAF Dark Green & Mr Hobby Aquaeous H335 Medium Sea Grey; Flory Dark Dirt Wash; Tamiya Weathering sets Other info: the full build can be found here Untitled by Neal, on FlickrUntitled by Neal, on FlickrUntitled by Neal, on FlickrThese photos are quick snapshots taken with my iPhone as I have not had time to get my DSLR out.Thanks for lookingNeal
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Well I thought I would kill 2 birds with one stone and enter my Tamiya Mossie, as I did with the Academy Mustang! As part of my long term 617 Sqn project, I will build my Tamiya MK VI Mossie, using the Hannants Decals to model Leonard Cheshire's aircraft, NT202, used for target marking etc. The kit has a good reputation, I had a good bash at invasion stripes modelling Cheshire's Mustang. Lots on the go at the moment, luckily I can use the table tennis table in my garage to keep a track of it all (til the weather warms up!). So this may be a bit later starting, but here is my marker! Hannants decals: references very limited - rare photo - possibly the airframe: 'Two Mosquito FB.VIs were issued to 617 Squadron - NT202 and NT205. This next, rare, snapshot MAY be the other one ; it shows three NCO's of 627 Squadron ( who shared Woodhall Spa with 617 ) in front of 'Leonard Cheshire's Mosquito' ' IWM pic - noted as 617 Sqn?
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Well I have taken a bit of a sabbatical from group builds as the subjects were not my usual area of fast, noisy pointy things. I however started on a 617 Sqn project, namely 3 x Lancs, with some other aircraft, including a Mustang III. Had a quick scan in prep for the upcoming F16, F111 and F15 GBs and thought.....I could get this Mustang III done! So, here it is, a bit out of my comfort zone, 1/72 and a prop powered a In The De Havilland Mosquito and then in a ?Borrowed? P-51B Mustang III (P-51B) Leonard Cheshire had pioneered a new method of marking enemy targets, flying in at a very low level in the face of strong defences. In four years of fighting against the bitterest opposition he maintained a standard of outstanding personal achievement, his successful operations being the result of careful planning, brilliant execution and supreme contempt for danger - for example, on one occasion he flew his P-51 Mustang in slow figures of 8 above a target obscured by low cloud, to act as a bomb-aiming mark for his squadron. Cheshire displayed the courage and determination of an exceptional leader. Group Captain Geoffrey Leonard Cheshire, Baron Cheshire, VC, OM, DSO and Two Bars, DFC (7 September 1917 ? 31 July 1992) was a highly decorated British RAF pilot during the Second World War. Among the honours Cheshire received as a bomber pilot is the Victoria Cross, the highest and most prestigious award for gallantry in the face of the enemy that can be awarded to British and Commonwealth forces. After the war, he became a charity worker, setting up the Leonard Cheshire Disability as well as other philanthropic organisations. Cheshire was, in his day, both the youngest Group Captain in the service and, following his VC, the most decorated. His notable wartime record makes his subsequent career all the more remarkable. Kit: Decals: References: Now any advice appreciated - what weapons should I mount, is the spinner sky or white?
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http://www.portsmouth.co.uk/news/defence/dambusters-to-fly-again-on-navy-s-new-carriers-1-7386221
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Hi My first finished build to be posted up here and I think my it's my fifth or sixth since getting into modelling. This was started as part of the Tornado Group Build last Summer, but progress stalled. I saw this jet flying with the Lancaster at RIAT and loved the tail design.. This was the Revell GR1 kit with Freightdog GR4 resin parts, Modelmaster Pitot, Eduard Photoetch and Xtradecal Decals (my first use of photoetch and aftermarket decals). I'm still getting to grips with the Airbrush, but I think I'm starting to work it out. A few things went wrong, the front windscreen cracked, the rear wings broke off a few times, the swinging pylons broke so are now fixed, and I couldn't get the wingtip lights on, but I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for looking, any tips for improvements welcome. Steve
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Hi I'll be building a 1/72 Revell Tornado GR.1 as one of the Dambuster's 70th Anniversary GR.4s from a couple of years ago. I saw the flypast with the Lancaster at RIAT that year and loved the tail design. I'll be using the Freightdog conversion kit. Xtradecal decals, Eduard photoetch interior, Master pitot tube and Montex mask. My first time using photoetch or a mask, but wanted to try and take a step forward with my builds. I'll add some photos tonight. Thanks for letting me join the build. Steve
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1:72 Revell Lancaster B.III Dambusters
Casemate UK posted a topic in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
Hi all! This was my first ever build and I wanted to do it so that I could be a bit more involved in this fantastic community who are always so keen to buy our modelling books! I started the build thinking that I would do everything in a very neat, ordered way, however I quickly wanted to start gluing and seeing it take shape, so I became a little sloppy with my orderly ideas! I had several issues with the build (a couple because of my own fault and one or two which I will blame the kit for!) My biggest issue was the engines and them not fitting on the wings neatly despite how much i wiggled them! I would like to get some filler or something to hide the gaps between them and the wings as I am sure you will see! The paint along the sides needs to be tidied up a bit and there are a couple of green fingerprints on the glass at the front as well as my untidy engines. I only used five paints for this (a metallic silver, a muddy brown, a standard looking green (colours on wings for green and brown), a yellow for the tips of the propellers, and a matt black) all Humbrol Enamel Paints. They were all pretty good I thought! Despite getting furious at the pieces for not working properly several times, I really want to do another kit to see if I can do it better and make something that looks a little tidier and nicer than this! Maybe a nice simple fighter plane! Any suggestions are welcome! Cheers all! - Andy- 22 replies
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Hello all! Casemate UK are sponsoring a group build on britmodeller and we distribute loads of modelling books (Kagero's etc), but do we really know what is involved in the art of creating and building these model kits? I decided that it was definitely time to give it a go and *attempt to* build my very first model! I have bought a 1:72 Scale Lancaster B.III Dambusters kit from Revell and will be posting my progress on here. Please feel free to let me know any hints or tips and feel free to tell me off for any blinding blunders and modelling faux-pas that I'm making - all advice will be needed and welcome! - Casemate UK (Andy)
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The newish Airfix kit completed as Wing Commander Guy Gibson’s G-George. Kind friends of mine gifted me this for my birthday just before Christmas, so I decided it would be this year's 'Christmas build". First time I have completed the annual Christmas build within the holiday period. I have had an interest in the Dams Raid ever since reading Paul Brickhill's book during a wet week in Betws-y-Coed as a young lad. Later on when my father was posted to Soest in Germany we lived in a flat in Korbecke, just a short walk from the Korbecke Bridge across one arm of the Mohnesee. I believe this was where Gibson turned to head up the lake towards the Mohne Dam. I have previously made the old Airfix version - but it did not survive a fall from a great height 10 years ago. For some reason I still had the remnants in my garage: Any way onto the completed model. Brush painted with Tamiya acrylics. WIP thread here. I really enjoyed this, although I did find it a bit fiddly at the end fixing the last pieces. First time I have had a go at serious exhaust stains, which not having an airbrush I did by some sequential dry brushing of tame acrylics (Nato black, buff and medium grey). I also tried Clearfix for the side windows in the extreme nose, which I think I need some practice with (got an air bubble on one side). Thanks for looking.
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Kind friends of mine gifted me this for my birthday just before Christmas, so I decided it would be this year's 'Christmas build". Hopefully, compared to usual, I will actually finish it before I go back to work towards the end of January. I have had an interest in the Dams Raid ever since reading Paul Brickhill's book during a wet week in Betws-y-Coed as a young lad. Later on when my father was posted to Soest we lived in a flat in Korbecke, just a short walk from the Korbecke Bridge across one arm of the Mohnesee. I believe this was where Gibson turned to head up the lake towards the dam. Anyway, the obligatory box top shot: and the sprue (thats a lot of plastic!): So straight to work, on the insides: I decided to cut the spars close to the undercarriage "cells" so that I could complete the wings separate from the fuselage. Plenty of spar left to just slip the wings on. Cockpit almost complete: Insides washed with a bit of water colour and then dry brushed to give a bit of depth:
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Finally got to where i am happy with it and want to move on just a few wee things to do and fix a few mistakes(canopy needs replaced accidentally over sprayed it with clear coat) The upkeep bomb is wired up and SHOULD spin BUT its not ! :-( bit disapointing but as its inside not much i can do with other than rip it open . Would i do it again NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO lol,if you look at my WIP the wiring drove me mad and the leds needed replaced a few times till i was kindly pointed in the right direction (Needed a resistor ) I love the model but it kinda took me in a different direction more technical and truth be told not that enjoyale am wanting to go back to kits and just work on my ageing skills etc hope you enjoy , mick ,
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Hello, This one has been on the drawing board since completing the Airfix Version back in January, hopefully I'll not have as many problems with this one as I am currently having with the "Mustang/Tornado/Gannet", so should be moving fairly quickly. I'm going to be doing this in the scheme of AJ-G which was flown by Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC DSO* DFC*, and using Humbrol 29 Dark Earth & Tamiya TS-2/XF=61 for the Dark Green sections, the black underside & engine block will be finished in Plastikote Flat Black. Box and Sprue Shot's: Not had a chance to take any photo's but I've now sprayed the Flat black area's on the aircraft, as the kit was rather Glossy: Thanks for Looking
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Well since everyone else was doing one i felt left out ;-) actually me and me and my best mate are building the same(ish) kit he bought a straight forward tamyia lanc i bought the Dambusters version.will post as i go.Also fitted a "edwardo" dash kit so far so good here's some pictures , Ohh and just to add a bit more interest i decided to wire up the props with micro motors AND am going to wire up the "UP KEEP" Bomb to make it spin , it will either work out good or i will destroy a £100 kit lol Not sure if this will upset people but i decided to go with cockpit green even thou Tamyia say use "Panzer Grey" or Black Drilled out upkeep for pully and dowel, Now the more observant of you might have noticed i wired the batt and motors up BEFORE i hooked the wings and fuselage OOOOOOHPS have to cut n shut together
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Heres my Lanc that I finished FINALLY. I never build heavies so this was a struggle. The decals silvered as always however only on the wings this time... As I said, I don't often build heavies (this was built for my Air Training Corps squadron for a competition) so please go easy on me Ben.
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This is an interesting one - received as a Christmas present last year, this has been waiting for me to get it cracked open but the time has now come! The kit is presented complete with a "dam" and a bouncing bomb, all ready to pose in a "moment of strike" configuration diorama which will no doubt present it's own challenges as I am tempted to go one step further with this & model it with the dam walls breaching & water running through... should be interesting! Anyway, I'll start with the sprue shots whilst I figure out where to start with this beast!!
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Recently got a Tamiya 1/48 dambusters/gran slam version, my question is normally i usually do a bit of weathering on my aircraft dont generally like fresh paint on aircraft , Am going to do the dambusters version, BUT am i right in saying there would be NO weathering as the aircraft where straight from the factor as quick as they was made as well the up keep bomb,????? cheers mick
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- lancaster
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