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  1. Hi! Got over the finish line with this one. Build log is here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235131913-kettenkrad/ Here are the photos: Cheers! Kristjan
  2. I bought this a few months ago on a whim, (basically the price was really good), so I thought I'd crack on with it, because it is a big, complex kit. Due to a lack of photographic evidence I can play around with it without getting too concerned about overall accuracy and just have fun with it, colouring, detailing and weathering wise. It comes in a big box with some great cover art. This is the version Night Shift did and his videos on it are great. Full of great ideas and top tips. I won't do the obligatory sprue shot, but needless to say there are plenty of them. It's a lot of kit. But everything is in there so I won't need any aftermarket. Plus I have some spare stuff from my Sturmtiger builds just in case. I bought some decals ages ago. I think F05 will be my choice. Cheers all.👍
  3. All hello! I will build the British heavy tank.
  4. This is the new old one on my bench - Dragon 6128 Kettenkrad. I started the thing actually more than 10 years ago and it seemed a great kit at the time. It found its way to shelf of doom though because I found out Dragon got the sprocket totally wrong and I hadn't any means to fix the issue then. Well, T-Rex Studio released a correct sprocket lately, so I decided to get it going again. Tamiya of course has released a much better Kettenkrad a few years back, but oh well, as I've already put some effort in this one, I'll be a gentleman and get it to the decent end. Much of the work has been done with the engine and the transmission so far. Also the handrails has been replaced. To add to the kit I also have the Eduard PE set and the T-Rex Studio 3D-printed front fork, and some decals too by Passion Models. Here's the little bugger: Cheers! Kristjan
  5. I read on twitter a few days ago that its a tradition to start a new model build on New Years Day, which brings good luck for the year. Who am I to argue? Just received this past week, Dragon's new M142 High Mobility Artillery Rocket System, known as HIMARS. The HIMARS has become quite famous over the past year and a half, with the US donating several to Ukraine after russias illegal invasion. Operating in the summer of '22, their precision strikes have been successful at taking out key targets. Ukraine has continued to receive more units, with a total of 39 HIMARS delivered/pledged as of now. Dragon's kit looks to be a bit basic, but detailed. Windows are molded in, so theres no interior. Makes it easier for me. Axles are brass, which is nice. Parts are now getting washed, with building to start this evening.
  6. Dragon Models is working on a new tool 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109E kit - ref. DR5550 Sources: http://platz-media.com/blog/2019/09/22/2019-ahs-dragon/ http://www.platz-hobby.com/products/9386.html V.P.
  7. Here's my latest completion, the Dragon 1/32 Bf110D-3 (or D-0 as listed in the gruppe paperwork), it is marked as one of the aircraft used by Erprobungsgruppe 210 in the summer of 1940. ... and a whitewall tyred tailwheel. I'm not sure if it was prototypical, there aren't many pictures of the original aircraft but it does look like there might be one and it was reasonably common: I used the same aftermarket as for my recent Bf110c-6 (apart from the AIMS conversion set obviously). Paints were Colourcoats ACLW12 - RLM Grau (RLM 02) for the interiors, ACLW03 - Hellblau (RLM 65) for the undersides and the top surface camo was ACLW11 - Dunkelgrun (RLM71) and ACLW12 - RLM Grau (RLM 02) - again it's hard to be sure from photographs but the D-0's of Epr.Gr.210 look to have quite a soft demarcation so may have been repainted at unit level. The blue on the prop spinners was a mix of Citadel acrylic blues mixed as close as I could to the blue on the aircraft code letter. Markings were a mixture of decals from the Revell re-pop of the kit and the squadron markings were from the Kagero Battle of Britain decal set kindly donated by our late forum-buddy Silver Fox. Thanks for dropping by Cheers, Stew
  8. This is my last Hasegawa model. The kit includes a set of the most awful tracks I have ever seen. Here they are in all their glory............. The "guide teeth" are an almost continuous ridge along the centre line. The destructions look like standard Hasegawa, not bad and reasonably easy to follow. There's a paragraph at the foot of the paint scheme that points out that, as an early Jagdpanzer IV this should have Zimmerit. I've seen after market zimmerit for this kit but I'm not minded to spend any more on it. I'm going to attempt a mod to a later version, post September 1944 when Zimmerit was stopped. JP IVs continued in production until November 1944 when somebody dropped a lot of HE onto the Vomag factory where JP IVs were being built so this will be representing a JP IV from almost the end of production of the L/48 version. On examination of the parts there appears to be a bit of an issue with the rear panel. The cylinders on the back panel behind the idlers on both sides do not line up with the rear of the idler axles, they're offset above them. I don't want to sabotage the strength of the running gear, particularly as the tracks might prove to be a bit tight, so I think this will be left as it is. The early versions had two ports for an MG42, one each side of the main gun. The left hand MG was difficult to use. (Probably gave the driver a headache.) So it was deleted in later models. So I've filled the left hand port and will sand it smooth when dry. Thanks for looking in.
  9. This is the dragon kit in the markings of green 3 + -- flown by obfw. Josof Keil. Who was the only ta 152 ace. Dragon kit ( lower wing rescribed for ta 152 h-0 panels, and also below cockpit starboard side panel) Fine moulds brass pitot tube. Brass tube for mg 151 gun barrels. Fusion propeller and radiator. Aires cockpit, Barracuda studios wheels. Eagle cals 48134. Thank you for looking.
  10. I have always been a sucker for WWII halftracks and soft skins ever since I returned to the hobby, with Axis vehicles being a particular favourite. Over the last couple of years I have built a fair few Sd.Kfz.7 8 ton variants. Dragon (D) and Trumpeter (T) are the only manufacturers to offer the vehicle in 1/35 scale and currently offer eleven different versions between them. At last count both manufacturers offer twenty-six kits with both producing early and late towing vehicles as well as Flak variants. Both offer the same models with the odd variant being produced by just one. Dragon also offers combo packs including artillery pieces. Gun crew vehicles are available in initial (D), early (D & T) and late (D & T) Wooden bodied (Holzpritsche) versions are offered by D & T Self-propelled Flak versions carried four main weapons. The early and later armoured cab model 7/1 version Flakvierling 38, (D & T), and the three 7/2 versions; early and late Flak 37 (D & T), early Flak 41 (T), and late Flak 43 (D & T) Two kits that only one manufacturer offer is Trumpeter‘s 7/3 Feuerleitpanzer version which was used specifically at Rocket sites and Dragon offer the specific 1943 HL m11 version of the gun crew vehicle. Cyber Hobby released an early Flakvierling 38 variant in 2011 but I have no idea if that differs from the Dragon boxed kit #6525 of the same name that was released in 2009. An early gun crew Sd.Kfz 7 in North Africa As regards to builders, both the main ones were Borgward (designated HL) and Krauss Maffei (designated KM). The radiator housings received their emblems on earlier vehicles. An early model Sd.Kfz 7/1 version Flakvierling 38 One variant that is missing from range in offer is the earliest incarnation of the wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche) These were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 which retained the old-style metal driver’s compartment. The Holzpritche bodied vehicles were a solution to save on limited and dwindling Nazi supplies of raw materials. The first Holzpritsche vehicles built of the final m11 design were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943 and this is the vehicle I am planning to build at the end of this build log. Early Holzpritsche fitted to the Typ HL m11 With both Trumpeter and Dragon only offering the final versions of the Holzpritsche which included the revised and larger wooden cab I will likely have to combine elements of different kits. It would be made far simpler if just one manufacturer got things right, but alas, both do suffer from their own inaccuracies and issues. To this end I am going to first begin by building both the final Holzpritche versions to see what will work best. Once completed I will attempt to create the early version with the best of what both manufacturers can offer. First up is Trumpeters 2009 released kit # 01507 which they simply brand as a KM m11 ‘late version. Having built this kit quite a long time ago not long after I returned to the hobby, I recall a few concerns that made it a less than pleasurable build in places, so let’s do a quick recap before I start the build. The main spoiler concerns the sprockets. First up, they look a little odd. That is because they have bevelled groves on the main face which were never present. Trumpeter don’t even show them in their own painting guide or box art, so something was at odds! The biggest problem however is that building them up as per the instructions means the tracks will not fit over the sprocket without leaving a nasty gap. The kit’s engineering lacks the important drive sprocket teeth offset (seen on many German running gear designs) which prevents the track from sitting evenly around the sprocket. In addition, the part containing the outer roller detail once fitted is hidden on the reverse side! Trumpeter never designed the teeth offset of the rollers against each track pad as per the real thing, so the track links do not sit flush against each track pad. Each sprocket is also ‘handed’ so any surgery will require removing the same part from each sprocket then a test fitment of a small track run will then determine how you re-assemble each sprocket. The recommended surgery is not complex and TBH re-fitting the small tabs that require removal for the modification to work are not completely necessary. The sprocket modification explanation with pics can be found here: https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/trumpeter/tr01523d04.htm If you want the sprocket to resemble the real thing aesthetically the groves will still need to be filled in, which will not be an easy task. Even then the track pad inner fitting plates and bolts are missing so for the ultimate authenticity an aftermarket photo etch set will still be required. Even better still, try and locate a 3D printed pair. The second biggest kit failing is the omission of the wooden equipment rack in the load area. Although the equipment rack was designed to be removeable to easily convert into a flatbed the rack is an important element of this variant so why it is missing is a mystery. Trumpeter do offer some additional internal planking, but it is totally inaccurate. They do however offer a nice tarp for both the cab and load area, so there is a ‘cover up’ alternative. Another distinct anomaly is the inclusion of a Flak variant cab bench. The bench did not have an angled cut out on the passenger side and the driver’s seat cushions were much deeper with a cut out in the horizontal framework to accommodate. The Panzer Tracts book quite clearly illustrates the correct layout which also shows a battery box instead of the two exposed batteries that the kit offers. Comparing the kit dimensionally with the Panzer Tracts book 22-4, the overall length is a smidgen long compared to the drawings and the profile of the front fenders is slightly out. Neither warrants the amount of work which would be required to correct IMO. So, with the major fitment issue, the missing part exposed and a dodgy cab seating arrangement, what else can we expect? The kit offers these licence plate decals Even if accuracy is not a major concern, then some ‘interesting’ engineering and odd step sequencing is still worth highlighting. The chassis engineering is overly complex so rather than a nice strong one piece moulding that all the Dragon 8t kits offer, a multipiece affair will need to be cleaned up and carefully aligned together. Personally, I believe this is the main issue with all the Trumpeter 8t kits. Too many parts when one or two would have been perfectly fine. I guess Trumpeter never embraced slide moulding technology like Dragon did! To complicate matters, the instructions have you add some of the smallest and most fragile parts in the very first steps! Considering the amount of handling still required this is a recipe for disaster. These are kit’s where the builder needs to plan ahead. Kit content and sprue shots. To save myself a whole bunch of work they are all conveniently available to view here: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1250&l=en Compared to the Dragon versions the detail is a little ‘chunky’ in places and although there was no flash present there are a few pin holes, many of which will remain visible. There is also a fair bit of mould offset on many parts so seam clean-up will obliterate some detail. Along with the main problems already mentioned I will try and point out any further issues as I go along. The multi-part affair for the chassis is the same across all the Trumpeter kits with only minor differences across the variants. Whilst far more detailed than the Dragon equivalent it is a bit fiddly to assemble. Dragon kits sacrificed detail in this area but much of it is unseen once assembled and it is a much stronger sub assembly and saves at least a couple of hours of work. Following the instructions, we commence in step 1 with the gearbox. This is instructed to be fitted between the chassis legs. It is a heavy part and dangles between just one contact point on each side and does not actually provide any real structural rigidity. To make life easier it us far easier to construct the chassis components in step 2 with it left off. The flex in the chassis legs will accommodate it once the chassis frame is built up so let the assembly fully cure first. It is also recommended NOT to add the photo etch and plastic cab levers (parts D13, D38 and D54) until it is ready to receive the cab floor as they are easily damaged. The front leaf spring assembly connect the two chassis legs at the front and the flat rear tray (part WA15) connects them together at the rear. Part A41 shown in step 3 can be used in-between to aid alignment. The gearbox fits in-between, and it must sit perpendicular to the frame. It’s connection points to both chassis’ legs rely on just the tiny and imprecise ends of part A7. The weight of the gearbox tends to make it droop rearwards making both chassis legs in the middle bend inwards at the top! Not the best engineering as the gearbox needs to align in one direction to accept both winch and engine shaft in later steps! The only reference for lining up the gearbox straight is to sight it up using the two holes in the legs behind the sprocket housings. TBH the upper middle parts of both legs have way too much flex and don’t get any rigidity until the fuel tank in step 7 is attached. There’s plenty of manhandling beforehand so handle with care! Step 3 connects the myriad of parts that connects the suspension pick up points. Plenty of clean-up is needed especially on parts D23 and D24 so dry fitting everything before committing placement is recommended. There are also two small pieces of photoetch to add in this step and they need to be assembled correctly as the holes in them accept the winch housing. Progress to step 3 so far.
  11. As I am near to finishing my detour build of a 'wingy thing' here if you're interested. At the end of the T23 Frigate build, I asked a 'What should I build next?', so here I am. I'll build both T42 batch 2 & 3 destroyers using the appropriate Dragon kits in 1/700. The T42 Batch 2. Unfortunately this boxing doesn't come with any PE, so... I had to acquire WEM PE from Atlantic Models. T42 Batch 3 boxing with PE. Stuart
  12. So yesterday it was a Ta154 (https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235128710-focke-wulf-ta-154/#comment-4742016) - and today it's time for a Ta152.. I can't see myself building any more of these, as I'm literally running out of viable schemes - and there weren't that many to start with. Anyway, this is 'black 3' of Stabschwarm III./JG 301, one of the aircraft identified in Axel Urbanke's recent research into Ta152 operations. No pics of black 3 are known to exist, so we're just guessing here. I've basically drawn from features of the other known pics of Ta152s and combined them into one. In previous builds I've painted the gear legs RLM02, or 66, so this time they are in red primer (I told you I was running out of ideas). Markings all painted/masked on - apart from the random WNr. Painting the yellow bar was fun..
  13. This next project will continue with a theme of creating a display to include a piece of space memorabilia and a model or models that are directly related to it. The piece of memorabilia is a commemorative patch that celebrates NASA’s 60th Anniversary. The patch spent approximately a year aboard the ISS. It was flown up to the ISS aboard an Antares-Cygnus flight (NG10) & returned to earth aboard a Dragon Capsule (CRS-19). The vehicles used to transport the patch to the ISS & back will be modelled using the following Antares Launch vehicle will be a 1-144th Scale resin kit from New Ware (NW120). Dragon capsule will be a 1-48th Scale Resin 3D print, I have “designed” and drawn using Fusion 360, and it will be produced by a 3D print service. Preparations for this project have been ongoing on & off since 2018 when the seller of the patches announced his plans and started taking orders. As the Falcon 9 project is nearing completion they have been kicked off again in earnest so that all of the "hardware" will be ready to go as soon as the F9 gets completed. The base kit for the Antares The kit as supplied The new ware kit was first produced in 2013 and was modelled on the vehicle as it was then. The NG-10 flight was in the November of 2018. Between these dates there were some changes to the launch vehicle and spacecraft 1. First stage In 2015 the first stage (100 series) was retired due to the unreliability and age of the AJ26 engines, the final nail in the coffin was the loss of the Orb 3 flight in 2014. These engines were 15 year old Russian NK33 engines (that had been purchased by Aerojet, refurbished, and renamed AJ26) The first stage was replaced with the 200 series, which in essence was a beefed up version of the 100 series, powered by a more modern Russian Engine, the RD181. 2. Cygnus Cargo spacecraft & Second stage Castor Engine The original standard Cygnus version was last flown on the ill-fated Orb 3 flight in November 2014 and replaced with the Cygnus Enhanced version. Over the intervening years the second stage Castor solid fuel engine was upgraded 3. Northrop Grumman acquiring Orbital ATK In June of 2018 Northrop bought out Orbital in a 9 billion dollar deal. The NG10 flight in November of that year marked the first flight of the vehicle by its new owner/operator To accurately reflect these changes the model will be modified as below 1. First stage The AJ-26 engine bells were heavily insulated with a pink coloured insulation. The current RD181 does not have this present. The only correction needed will be to remove some material from the engine bells that represents the insulation. 2. Cygnus Cargo spacecraft & Second stage Castor Engine The enhanced Cygnus is 2.5m longer than the standard version. The Second stage Castor solid rocket engine was also upgraded. Although the later engine is physically larger, and the Cygnus was lengthened by 2.5m both of these upgrades were accommodated by lengthening the payload fairing by 2.3m At 1-144th scale a 16mm long extension will need to be inserted in the payload fairing. Fortunately, whilst I was looking into these changes I was in close contact with Martin, the owner of Martins models. He very kindly cast me a resin part of the correct dimensions 3. Northrop Grumman acquiring Orbital ATK This change meant a relatively minor change in the vehicles livery, the Orbital logo being replaced by Northrop Grumman’s corporate logo. Again, I was fortunate with the timing of this as I was having a sheet of assorted decals printed for a model, I was working on at the time so a batch of various sized logos were added. I think I have got the main changes covered and looking at the three points laid out they look fairly insignificant, but it took a fair few hours of internet searches, head scratching, calculations and educated guesswork to get there. A screengrab of where the proposed cut line (the red one) will be for inserting the extension Two shots showing the changes to the livery The second element of the model is the Dragon Capsule. I had previously looked around for a capsule on the open market and had made an approach to Oli Braun of Buzz media labs who produces a range of Space X rocket kits. Nothing came to fruition, and I left the looking on the backburner. A couple of years down the line and armed with a bit of Fusion 360 knowhow coupled with google & you tube I decided to have a bash at drawing one up and having it printed. If I rewind time back to the early eighties when I was just about to leave school and I was messing about with my newly acquired ZX80 the younger me would have not imagined that the older me would have access to, the tools, and the knowledge to create 3d parametric models. Then with a couple of presses of a button, send (for that time an unimaginably huge) file to someone who could then turn that information into a physical object using a 3d printer. In this COVID era it appears that to travel you are required to print an extraordinary amount of paperwork to carry around, that is then totally ignored by the people that request it. So, whilst in quarantine the paper, and the enforced idle time were put to constructive use The capsule was drawn up as two separate elements When it was finished, I had a play around with it, and the different visual effects available in Fusion A couple of shots in a wireframe environment, and one of a very quick render with some colours added This part of the build should be relatively straightforward. Glue A to B and apply paint he said. I have gone for a 1-48th scale, and that measures up at approx. 81mm diameter at the base and around about 70mm tall, a nice healthy size. The paint application is where I will force myself to leave the comfort zone and for the first time attempt some creative weathering. Here is a shot of the recovered capsule and the look I would like to recreate, any pointers as to how I could do this would be gratefully accepted
  14. Hobby 2000 from Poland (link) is to rebox the 1/72nd Heinkel He.219 Uhu kit from Dragon Models. - ref. 72067 - Heinkel He.219 A-0 Uhu https://ksmodel.pl/sklep/szczegoly/hobby-2000-72067-heinkel-he-219-a-0-limited-edition-1-72-27462/ - ref. 72068 - Heinkel He.219 A-2 Uhu https://ksmodel.pl/sklep/szczegoly/hobby-2000-72068-heinkel-he-219-a-2-limited-edition-1-72-27463/ V.P.
  15. Hi All, My fourth completed build, this was a side project to my double carrier project which ive done a bit on here and there. The kit it self went together easily enough, it has a few issues, the prop blades are too thick and its missing a few detail on the hull but nothing really major. I painted it in colours I think roughly matching a museum ship of the class in Germany. Used Humbrol 164 for the lower hull and Sovereign hobbies Dunklegrau 51 for the uppers. Gave her an overall wash with dark grey enamels and dirty white spirit and then pin washed her with very dark gray/black to pick our the 'openings'. Im not convinced on overall washes, albeit it with oils may be better but were she not a sub I'd of kept her clean. I have very odd views on what should and shouldn't be weather I think, subs yes, surface ships, no. I replaced some of the antenna etc with sections from a master barrels yard arm set and made a grill from spare etch to replace the plastic part which was solid. I left the tube doors open one side and closed the other, the closed option doesn't actually fit quite right so in hindsight would have left them as open, All in all I'm happy with her but a little disappointed with the brush marks of the matt coat which was Windsor and Newton galleria. I think I applied it too thickly tbf so next time I'll airbrush it I think, if found that as soon its started to dry you can do nothing about it, try washing it off and it ruins it, try reworking it with a little more on the brush and likewise causes issues, idk maybe user error. I think they're great looking little subs over all and at some point id be tempted by a larger kit of one but for now im happy with this little lass, Thanks for looking, Sam Edit - couple more pics with her cousin the Type VII C, Just to prove perspective is everything, the Tpe XXI is a bit larger Cheers, Sam
  16. Hello folks I had the last time very little time for the hobby, but in small steps it goes back to the workbench. Unfortunately I could not finish the Halftruck GB, so here in the WIP for all interested at first a small summary of the work on the M3 so far. My idea to convert it into an ambulance has given me a bigger task and as so often the work took no end. If you decide for an OOB build, the kit makes no problems, but if PE parts are used (eg Voyager), a lot of surgery is required. Once again, I find that a halftruck is much more work than a tank or truck. Here you have a mixture of both, which increases the amount of detail. If you then want to show the interior and engine, it does not get easier. As far as the painting is concerned, you have to see exactly when, where and how you paint or glue together. Otherwise you will have more work later. I hope you like the model so far. MD The object of desire 😁 Ready to go! The engine is not well detailed and important parts are missing. Wheels can not be shown turned in, I have changed that. Cast on springs... ...better 😁 Work for the saw... The PE parts were not usable, so I use the kit parts. The fighting room must be rebuilt. Seats out, stretchers in. The new base. Since the ambulances were troop conversions, there are very few pictures of the interior-plus each vehicle varies in its design. Checker plates for the floor. The previously removed seats are reused. The new interior with seats, boxes and supports for 3 stretchers. The next step is the engine. A distributor is needed... Generator, starter, fuel pump, ignition coil, etc. are rebuilt. The splashboard of the engine compartment is not correct. done To simplify the subsequent painting, I have changed the model and created individual assemblies. To do this, you have to work very carefully and check everything again and again by test fits. The cooler also fits 😅 Some parts had to be rebuilt to reproduce the engine halfway reasonably There is also an alternative engine kit from Plus Models, but I preferred to rely on my references and also saved money. Everything fits together well and can also be disassembled again. The shifters were rebuilt with wire-the geometry from the kit was not correct. The fins of the radiator armor was newly created from plastic card. New, more stable axles were installed. Missing strengthening ribs and holes were added. New tailgate latch, taillights drilled out and reinserted, and a storage rack for luggage. Trial fit of the engine hood. The engine gets its base color. And again a trial fit, lamps are also installed. The complete engine is painted and weathered. The painting would otherwise not be possible later without the removable front. The result after 40 hours of work... My template for comparison See you!
  17. Finally made a start. 😄 Cockpit painted and ready to assemble to fuselage.
  18. Here is my recently completed HMS Sheffield using the 1/700 Dragon/ Cyber-hobby kit. Built mainly OOB with a couple of corrections and was an experience to use 1/700 PE that was included in the kit. Paints were from Colourcoats, kit decals and was depicted in her final scheme before her demise during the Falklands Conflict. Build log here: Stuart
  19. Hey Everyone. I'm new here to the forums on BM, but I've been referencing others great works here for years now. Britmodeller has always been one of my go to's for ideas. Great works here. I've been modeling on and off since I was about 6 and primarily focus on WW2 AFV, but have also dabbled in Naval vessels and submarines. Like many, I am a sucker for most German WW2 AFV. The colors. The engineering. In any case, I thought it was about time to start sharing some works of mine. I have loads, but this one I just recently finished on the bench and had some fun with it. The Panther G is such a beautifully sculpted vehicle. It's hard to imagine it as anything other than the most iconic side shot of a tank. It's a late war Panther G Command. Not historically accurate to say the least, but I liked the lighter shade 2 tone camo on this one and had some fun with the weathering and a few added goodies. The command figure is my first attempt at adding a figure to my work and like others, not very skilled at it just yet. But, adding a figure definitely adds to the final result of the tank for sure and I hope to get better at it as I continue to build. Periscopes are missing because I can't find them for some reason, but getting a new set to put in. No worries. Metal tracks. A few added parts. I usually always paint with Tamiya paints. Finish with some enamel washes, powders, and oils. I kept the weathering minimal as I like the tonal colors so much, I didn't want to cover it up. I think the German wool blankets were the hardest part for me. Ironic how hard it is to paint a straight line. Other than that, pretty much out of the box. Nothing over the top. Hope you like it. Cheers.
  20. I've started to go through my old RFI's which both Photobucket and Village Photos have managed to mess up, one way or another. Instead of having to click on each one twice to see them (and risk going into VP which has no security certificate), I'm uploading them again. Apologies to those who've already seen them, and thanks for your understanding. Basically, what this is, is Tamiya's M1 Sherman upper hull and turret, Dragon's M4 Hybrid lower hull and running gear, T49 tracks from Panda Plastics, and Sabingamartin decals. The WIP is still there, but minus the photos. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I finished this a couple of weeks ago, but I didn't want to put it into RFI until I'd put it on a base and added a couple of crew members. Well, now that's done. I used the two figures that came with the Tamiya kit but I wasn't happy with the faces. Most of the figures supplied with kits are a little lacking when it comes to definition with regards to the facial features. For me, nothing beats the resin variety. So I changed the heads for ones from Hornet. Unfortunately, the only ones that I had were British, but I thought that there were many Europeans who emigrated to Israel after WW2, so they'd have to do. I made the base using a small picture frame bought from Wilkinsons, balsa wood for the sides and polyurethane foam sheet. I wanted to keep it fairly simple, so I mixed up some household filler, PVA glue and some yellow ochre acrylic paint with water, and spread the mix over the top of the foam. Before it went off, I gently pushed the tracks down into the mix. Once it had hardened, I added some clumps of grass. It would have been better if they had been a bit more parched, but once again, I used what I had. If you want to see the build log, it's here; Any questions, comments or criticisms, please feel free. Thanks for looking. John.
  21. After a very long break, I’m finally getting back to completing the Dragon 1/72 Jagdtiger. This was originally started as part of a group build back in 2019 but life got in the way. There’s a lot of photos documenting the build in the completed group builds section - I guess I’m going to be about four years late for the GB but perhaps another one will come along before I finish this little beast?! I restarted working on this a couple of weeks ago - I had problems with the Dragon tracks being too short, which looked unrealistic and they were so tight that they snapped the drive sprockets off. I made new axles from brass rod and spliced in some of the spare tracks from the kit. One side is complete apart from track painting. I also added the decals, gave it a coat of Matt varnish and started the weathering process. I’m going to go easy on this - from what I have read, most JTs saw very little action. Photos from 2019 - Dragon 1/72 kit plus PE from ET Model. And now in 2023, showing recent progress. The kit suffered a bit of minor damage in storage, so some repairs and touching up of previous work is required. The replacement front axle from brass rod. The grey area is the spliced in styrene spare track links. Some of these have been painted and hung on the hooks that I added. More updates to follow - thanks for looking, Andrew
  22. My entry will be the Dragon 7/1. It arrived the other day and looks to be a very nice kit. It comes with proper rubber wheels rather than the DS ones. I may change them still because the weighted ones add that little extra. I also got the Nuts and Bolts book from Historex but recommendations of other additions to the library will be appreciated. Due to a house move I currently don't have the internet set up so this will be a place holder. Once set up I will get some photos sorted out. Technology, Schmecnology. 😀 By next week I will have started this properly with decent updates. Hopefully.
  23. Bf110E-2 Tropical 1:48 Dragon / Cyber Hobby - Master Series The Messerschmitt Bf110 was designed to fulfil a German Air Ministry requirement for a long-range, twin-engined fighter aircraft, or zerstörer which was issued back in 1934. Following the prototypes first flight in 1936, it beat off competing designs from Arado, Focke-Wulf and Henschel and was in service by the time war broke out three years later. Fitted with the same engines as the Bf 109E, the Bf 110 was a powerful aircraft and was very well armed in comparison to its counterparts. Despite early successes in Poland, the inadequacy of the Bf 110 as an out-and-out fighter was exposed by the RAF during the Battle of Britain. Heavy losses resulted, mainly as a result of the aircrafts lack of manoeuvrability. This aspect of the design was not improved to any degree in later versions, and for this reason the Bf 110 found itself increasingly utilised in other roles such as fighter bomber. The aircraft performed this role well in the North African campaign. The E models were mainly fighter bombers, the had a strengthened able to carry a bomb load of up to 1200 Kgs and featured extra bomb racks outboard of the main engines. The E-2 was fitted with DB601P engines and featured the same fuselage extension as the D-3 The Kit This kit is a variation on the earlier versions that Dragon has released since 2008, but this time its in their Cyberhobby range. The kit arrives in a sturdy box, upon opening you are struck by the sheer amount of plastic which seems to be packed in there. There are 15 sprues of light grey plastic, a clear sprue, and a small phot-etched fret. It's clear from the sprues that they have been designed in such a way to extract the maximum number of 110 variants from a common core of sprues, however there are not that many parts in this box which will not be used. The instruction sheet is large than normal giving the modeller bigger diagrams which are clearer to read. There seems to be a lot of detail in this kit with some intricate build steps. Most of the detail for the cockpit areas will be seen under the large canopy, however detail in the nose gunbay and other areas is a bit strange as there are no removable panels supplied in the kit? Like most aircraft the build begins with the cockpit assembly. Construction of the pilots seat is first and this is made up of the seat and two supports, with the left hand support featuring the seat adjustment handle moulded in place. The etched seat belts are then fitted and adjusted to shape. The main instrument panel is fitted with the gun-sight and small selector box and attached to the main cockpit floor, along with the rudder pedals, joystick, throttle quadrant to the left and side console the right. To the rear of the floor there is a large spent cartridge bin for the rear machine gun. The rear bulkhead is fitted with the spare ammunition drums for the rear machine gun, whilst the central framework is fitted with the radio panels and spare 20mm ammunition drums. There is a panel that fits in a trough just behind the pilots seat, this is the mounting panel for the 20mm cannon, two of which are fitted on the underside, whilst the ammunition drums, air bottles, radio operators seat and associated frame are fitted to the topside. These subassemblies are then fitted to their respective positions on the cockpit floor, followed by the side walls. The upper cockpit frame is then assembled from the main shoulder height frame, upper frame over the radio section, auxiliary instruments over the radios and the rear machine gun at its mounting plate. The completed framework is then fitted to the cockpit assembly and the whole cockpit glued into one half of the fuselage which can then be closed up. The nose gun mounting is assembled and the two machine guns fitted along with their ammunition belt runs before being slid into the single piece nose cone. This seems to be a bit of a waste as none of this detail will be seen unless the access panels in the nose section are carefully removed. The numerous sections of the cockpit greenhouse are then attached (or the modeller can use the one part canopy). With the fuselage closed up, the single piece centre wing spars complete with extra cannon bay detail is attached and covered with the fuselage centre panel, thus again covering all the detail previously fitted. Whilst the fuselage is upside down the PE DF aerial and styrene HF aerials are glued into position. The build moves onto the two DB 601 engines. These begin with the assembly of the main block which comes in two halves onto which the cylinder head and two cam covers are attached. Onto this main block the ignition harness, engine bearers, turbocharger assembly, oil tank and pipework are fitted. The undercarriage is the assembled, with the main units made up of the oleo, scissor link, retraction jack and support framework. The main tires are in two halves to which the separate inner and outer hubs, also in two parts are fitted. The upper cowling is fitted with the oil cooler intake, the exhaust stacks and their fairings are assembled and the main undercarriage bays are assembled from the firewall and roof sections, and completed with a selection of pipework and fittings. The exhaust stacks are then attached to the engine assemblies which are then fitted to the firewalls and the main undercarriage fitted to their bays. Before the radiator housing can be fitted to the lower cowling a large section must be cut out. The separate upper cowlings can be fitted, or left off to show off the engines. The instructions move onto the wings and the assembly of the underwing radiators which are made up of five parts then attached to the lower wing panels. The main wheel bays are detailed with internal frames after which the wheel bay doors are attached. The engine/undercarriage sub-assemblies are fitted to the lower wings followed by the upper wing sections, wing tips, leading edge intake scoops and landing lights. The flaps can be positioned in either the raised of lowered positions. The propellers are assembled by fitting the three separate blades to the hub, which is then attached to the backplate and finished off with the spinner. The modeller has a choice of whether to fit the two drop tanks or two pairs of bombs and their respective racks. The completed wings are then slid onto wing spars on the fuselage and glued into place. The final section is the assembly of the tailplane with the two halves of the vertical fins joined together then attached to the horizontal tailplane which comes as a single piece upper and two lower sections. In the centre of the lower section the tailwheel bay is attached then fitted with the tailwheel, made up of two wheel halves and single piece oleo, then the bay is completed with the addition of the bay doors. The completed tailplane is then attached to the rear of the fuselage thus completing the build. Canopy The clear parts are thin and free from distortion. A complex mulitpart canopy is supplied which can be modelled open; or the modeller can chose a one part canopy which will make things easier but be closed. Phot Etch A small photo etch fret is supplied which contains the seat belts, and radiator parts, along with two loop aerials. Decals Decals are supplied for three aircraft. All feature the RLM79 over RLM78 scheme. They are printed by Cartograf so should pose no problems. 8./ZG 26 - North Africa 1942 7./ZG 26 - Italy 1941 7./ZG 26 - Libya 1942 Conclusion This is an impressive kit from Dragon. The parts build is fairly high with some great detail. Like other boxings of this kit in other scales it is puzzling as some of the detail will not be seen. The modeller though could if they wished with some care expose this. Overall the kit is recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  24. Hello folks Before the GB starts I would like to introduce you to my model. A lot of small parts in a full package made a lot of work, but the real nightmare are the 3 PE sets. As always there is also a small vignette, this time it goes to Omaha Beach, a few days after D-Day. Looking forward to many nice models, see you! MD There are 3 variants with many details
  25. Against my better judgement, I decided to get a fourth Dragon kit. Another Ta 154. This one will be built as the projected, but never built, A-2 single seater day fighter version. Since the Ta 154A-2 never materialised, I have an open canvas regarding the camouflage. Speaking of camouflage, I still don't know how I'll paint this kit. Undersides will be in RLM 76, but for the upper sections, I have no idea. Since it'll be a single seat heavy fighter, I could go with a late war RLM 75/82 or 81/82 scheme with the late JG 300 RVD band on the back. The other option would be to use RLM 74/75 with the early JG 300 red band. Tough decisions will need to be made. Markings will be as simple as it gets, with the generic crosses and two chevrons to make it a Hauptmann aircraft. I'm also aware of the warping issue of the wings. My copy looks ok (I said the same when I bought the first one). Here's the link that has all the planned variants of the Moskito: http://www.historyofwar.org/articles/weapons_focke-wulf_Ta_154_Moskito.html Start of the project ia scheduled after January 21st of 2023.
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