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I wanted to enter this GB with a subject that isn't just non-military, but actually represents positive cooperation between nations, hence I'll be making the Dragon 1:400 International Space Station kit (#11024). This is more affordable than Revell's 1:144 scale offering (if you can find it), but is of the ISS ca. 2007, so is missing a lot of the newer modules added in the intervening years. Obligatory sprue shot: As you can see on the left, all the solar panels are PE, which has me a bit concerned about getting a solid attachment to the frame; that's a bridge to cross at a later date. I made a start today, with about an hour and a half's work giving me these completed sub-assemblies: It builds up so fast! I've left the solar panels and frames for now - they'll be attached after painting, but otherwise that's construction more or less complete already. Details are nice, and most of the fit was nice - plenty of tabs and guides to get everything the right way around. Next will be painting of all these sub-assemblies - without any guide from the kit, as it only gives paint references, but no actual details of which bits are which colour, nor of where the decals go when the time comes. Thankfully NASA has plenty of reference photos available. Finally, a sneak preview of all the bits push-fit together: Thanks for looking. Ben

With a long weekend ahead of me I am going to start this kit. It is the recently re-released OH-6A Cayuse from Dragon. For the last 3 years i have had a modelling list of things I would like to achieve in the next 12 months. Each year there has been build a chopper and I haven’t managed it yet. I think this is the perfect opportunity for me. I had a bit of a spurt on Vietnam subjects last year and with Gecko’s current releases I am planning to build a few more. I keep telling myself they will go together on a diorama at some point but for now I am content to keep building. So, to the kit, I have liked the look of these little choppers but had never managed to get my hands on one. Later versions seem to pop up but not the Nam one. I was very pleasantly surprised to find they had been rereleased at cyber-hobby and were available with free shipping. when the kit arrived I looked in the box and was surprised at how few parts there are. I know the kit is over 30 years old but having built Dragon armour models in the past I thought there may have been a few more, or a smaller box? The kit is moulded in the usual grey plastic and comes on just 2 sprues with an extra clear sprue including the big canopy. To add some more detail I have also got an Eduard PE set for it but I am not sure how much I will use. I have also got a set of mini gun barrels from RB models. Here goes with my first chopper build, wish me luck

There are 4 model kits on my table, 3x Dragon/Testors and one from Tamiya in 1:48 scale. There is a lot of literature as a source, but be careful, who copied from whom, who copied from whom - it is impossible to find out. The fact is, only one drawing is correct and also matches the very good model from Tamiya. This new construction item will take longer, there are many things to discuss and show in order to conjure up a true-to-original model. So - patience, things are moving forward. A single Dragon component is the benchmark for this construction report. Since I can't throw old models in the trash, it's better to figure out how to fix the Dragon models. I have decided to build all four He-162 kits and give them unusual liveries and markings - without resorting to "what if". I can recommend the following titles as useful sources: Engl./Czech, with many picture (SW/ Color)

Hello folks. Not many Sextons around here, probably because the Dragon kit was AWOL for a few years. They came back recently with the "magic tracks" so I grabbed one and set to work. A number of issues became apparent. Firstly, a number of parts are provided in the kit but not referenced in the instructions, most notably the additional strengthening pieces placed around the inside face of the front armour shield that fill up 2 holes (but still require a lot of filling). The side armour plating retains the moulding dimple mentioned in other reviews of the kit. The build sequence is rather difficult to work with for painting purposes. I ended up leaving the front and sides off for as long as possible, slotting in parts rather than fixing them so they would be easier to move. The fit of the body to the hull tub is...variable, again something noted in other reviews. The kit is missing weld lines in various prominent locations, so I scribed in a panel line and am going to claim that any sloppiness near the front armour plate is representative of the welds I wanted to represent "Fee" because it has actual video footage at https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060013190. However, the markings for "Fee" are incorrect and so is its regiment, which should be 90th Field Regiment RA. I ignored the paint scheme for the most part and went from the video where possible, or other images of Sextons at similar periods. I hoped to get the Star Decal set which has almost the correct markings for a 1944 Fee, but had to cobble it together from a different marking set, 35-C1260. There are still some additions to make if I revisit this kit in the future: covered headlights, camo netting, tools hanging from the side handles, Brens in the carrying slots, ammo boxes, and a rather prominent square that almost looks like a tacsign, but those shouldn't be present on artillery to my knowledge. There are also a few scribbles of white that are probably from D-Day transportation markings. I painted the kit with AK 3rd gen acrylics for the base camo, with Vallejo gunmetal for tracks and then various MIG and AK enamel washes, and Lifecolor acrylics for dust effects.

Just finished this Dragon Type 95 Ha Go. Generally went together well. Putting track sag into the DS rubber tracks was a bit challenging. Still work to do with my figure painting as far as skin tones. Might move on to an aircraft next. Hope you like.

Here is my recently completed HMS Sheffield using the 1/700 Dragon/ Cyber-hobby kit. Built mainly OOB with a couple of corrections and was an experience to use 1/700 PE that was included in the kit. Paints were from Colourcoats, kit decals and was depicted in her final scheme before her demise during the Falklands Conflict. Build log here: Stuart

It's been a while since I last completed something AFV as opposed to wingy jets, so here's another wheeled combat vehicle off the production line. This is the Dragon basic 1/72 kit of the M1296 Stryker Dragoon & was initially started almost a year ago. In comparison to some other 1/72 Strykers this is a pretty basic kit to be honest. I have seen plastic pre-built models of these, that come on a clear plastic box & secured to a base. This must be the same moulding as there's a screw hole attachment that runs vertically inside the body of the vehicle. It's not a bad kit but there's definitely better out there. It comes with some rather shoddy vinyl black tyres which means that I had to purchase some resin replacements by DEF models. These are quite pricey for a small kit like this but very much worth it. I also used various stowage items from a Redog resin multipack. Having seen a few photos of one of these with the wheel/tyre carrier attachement at the front, I couldn't help myself but to scratch build it using brass rod & used one of the cast off black vinyl tyres from the kit. These were really bad, so much so that they had to be partially soaked in levelling thinner to get the primer to key into it! The other thing I scratch made a tow bar out of plastic rod & attached it with some etch metal strip to the right hand side, oh also added a roll of fine wire to represent the roll of razor wire that's often seen attached at the front. Paints were by Ammo Mig, & I gave it a dusty wash using AK enamel wash. The resin tyres were given a good dusty dry brushing. The figures are from an Italeri NATO figures set & they had burnt umber pin wash to bring out the detail. These figures are pretty good detail wise. Thanks for looking! Martin

Hello everyone, I’ve finally managed to complete a model after nearly six months. The model represents the M7 Priest, part of the 11th RHA, during the Second Battle of El Alamein. At this time, the 11th RHA was part of the 1st Armoured Division. The regiment served in North Africa from 24 August 1942 and was the first to be equipped with M7 Priests. A total of 90 M7s arrived in Egypt in September 1942, but only 24 were issued to units, particularly to the 11th RHA (the remainder were kept in reserve). M7s served alongside Bishops, and while they were better overall, they posed logistical challenges as they used 105mm ammunition, which was not standard for the British Army. Even though the Sexton later replaced it in many cases (because it was built around 25-pounder), M7s continued to be used by the British throughout the war. The Priests were built on the M3 Grant chassis and got their name because the .50 caliber MG position resembled the pulpit of an Anglican priest. The British originally requested 5,500 M7s to be delivered, but in the end, only around 4,000 were produced in total by American Locomotive, Federal Machine and Welder, and The Pressed Steel Car Company. They proved particularly useful during the Battle of El Alamein, especially in suppressing 88mm guns. This is based on the Dragon 6627 kit, with Eduard fenders (keep in mind that the kit does not include any) and Panzer Art stowage set. Usually, I love Dragon kits, but this one was frustrating build. Fit was far from perfect, tracks were missing link (fortunately it is not visible because it';s under the sand shields), but at least 10 links per track are missing. Also, radio is not included in the kit. Eduard fenders were missing rails to attach sunshade,so I scratch build them. It was painted with a base coat of Mr. Color Olive Drab and oversprayed with MRP Light Stone. Before that, I applied some of Mig's chipping fluid. The disruptive camouflage was brush-painted using Vallejo Model Color mixes. I followed advice from Mike Sturmer, who suggested that the disruptive colour was likely a locally produced camcolour. The bottom is a black-brown shade, similar to SCC.14 Black, while the top is a greenish tone akin to SCC.7. I aimed for a somewhat rough, sloppy look here. The stowage was painted mostly with Vallejo Model Color. Stowage was also a bit tricky to attach. Had to trim it quite a lot. And here's the original photo I used as a reference: Cheers, Nenad

This 1/35 diorama depicts the Dutch town of Eindhoven on 20 September 1944. The town was the first to be liberated by the US 101st Airborne and lead elements of British XXX Corps, as part of Operation Market Garden on 18 September '44. Thousands of people flocked onto the streets and a huge party ensued, lasting well into the 19th. This unfortunately had the effect of backing up the allied convoy which was unable to move forwards. On the evening of the 19th, the streets were packed with vehicles including petrol tankers and ammunition wagons, and this is when the Luftwaffe decided to bomb the town with 76 aircraft. Despite the large amount of Allied materiel present there was no anti aircraft cover. Huge damage was done to the historic city and over 200 people killed with 1000 injured. I think it was the last major bombing raid by the Luftwaffe of the war. This diorama depicts US soldiers of the 101st Airborne ready to grab a lift on a British Sherman tank on the morning of the 20th September as they make their way through the destroyed city. Meanwhile German prisoners are escorted into custody by US Airborne troops. The Sherman Firefly kit by Dragon was good until it came to building the tracks, which were a nightmare. I gave up and bought AFV Club rubber band tracks instead as I was losing the will to live! They may not be correct although listed for the Firefly, but I was beyond caring by that point. Figures are from Masterbox and Gecko (The Cushman scooter is pretty much a kit in itself!), the German prisoners have Hornet heads. Building and cobbled street is a Miniart vac form item and all painted with a range of acrylics and pigments from various manufacturers. Comments always welcome

This was supposed to be a quick vignette to use up the bits that were left over from my last Diorama 'Waiting for Monty'. As usual though it kind of grew on its own...... Figures are all from Dragon, although the couple at the back have had arm and head transplants from the spares box. Flak gun is from Tamiya and well is scratch built from foam board. Strange thing now is I have enough left over for a third one, so watch this space! Excuse the cursor in the background in some of the pictures. I didn't notice it until after they were posted

Hey, this one is done Here it is: Pz.Rgt. 35, 4th Pz.Div, 3rd Company. Operation "Barbarossa", 1941. Build log is here: Cheers! Kristjan

Starting with a new one - this time it is Panzer III by Dragon. The kit I'm using is artillery observer tank Panzerbeobachtungswagen III but I'll build it into a regular Panzer III Ausf.G, as all the bits are supposedly in there. The turret shell is the only exception, but it'll be not too hard to convert. I have Voyager PE set and fenders to add as well as Aber barrels for the main gun an for MG's and a set of MasterClub metal tracks. I like Dragon's Pz.III based kits for their accuracy and crisp details and this one is up to that too. It's going together really fast at this stage and no hardships to report thus far. Cheers! Kristjan

Finished up the RFM and Dragon kits. Both are excellent and were very enjoyable builds. I'll give the RFM a slight edge because fit was perfect and it has an engine and positionable wheels, but the Dragon is no slouch. My hat tip to the 70s Matchbox kit with the RFM Puma: And the Dragon offering: A link to some in-progress comparison shots is in this post: I just picked up Miniart's non-interior version from a Lightning Deal (very cheap!), so it looks like I'll be going from squared to cubed...

Below some images of my recently finished 1:72 Dragon M4A3 105mm. The 105 mm barrel from the kit is rather small, so that was replaced with a turned metal one. The towing cable was created by twisting some thin copper wire, and the stowage is from Black Dog. I thought the kit's decal were a bit dull, so used some from Braille Strike (well worth to check out Clem Dupuis' website for interesting armour markings!). Otherwise pretty much OOB. Peter

I have lot of project of Commonwealth vehicles used in Italy to build so as a start and testing build, I pulled this Sherman III out of the stash. Scored on auction for few quids with Royal Model stowage set. I'm using AK Real colors for this build. Base colour of olive drab, covered with chipping fluid and painted with Light mud and blue black. Unfortunatelly masking putty didn't worked out so well so there's some deviations in camouflage scheme.

I've had this Dragon kit for quite a few years in the stash. The box art and description label it as an Ardennes 1944 KT with new pattern tracks, These new pattern tracks did not get fitted to any KT's before 1945 and I cannot see any photos of the Ardennes offensive KT's with them or the 18 tooth sprockets that they required. The kit tracks require removing from sprues and each link has 3 ejector pin marks that need filling, they are rather clunky in appearance compared to photos of the real track links so I have obtained a set of T-Rex 3D printed tracks to replace them and my build will have some of the other features of these late production tanks that left the assembly plant in March 1945. First the kit, originally released in 2006 with some new parts, single link tracks and some Ardennes Panzer Grenadier figures and weapons. As can be seen, the kit parts are still all bagged up, retaining that 2006 freshness. Although the kit features a turned aluminium barrel the muzzle brake has to be cut off the plastic barrel halves and attached so I have replaced it with a RB one with turned brass muzzle brake. Other bits and pieces to improve the kit are some p/e by ET Models and Voyager, and some 3D printed tools and clamps by Eduard. The tracks were a major part of this build so I ordered a set from T-Rex, they are beautifully printed and easy to assemble with two resin pins attaching each link to the other. T-Rex also make 18 tooth sprockets and a rear idlers, both 3D printed for this version along with a late turret cupola but the cost was above what I could afford as well as buying the set of tracks, so on their arrival I checked they fitted the kit parts by assembling a couple of track lengths, thankfully they they fit very well and they can wrap around the kit sprocket, I've had kit supplied tracks that do not fit as well as these do. I'll show the other bits as the build progresses. All is ready now for the STGB to start at the end of the month. Any questions or comments are welcome.

I apply Rule #3. In the year one I began to make this model. The old model of Dragon requires realization of repair.

I had one Dragon JagdTiger kit remaining, it's a shame to leave it in the stash, it's been there since 2005. This boxing was released in the 39-45 series and along with the standard kit plastic it contained an aluminium barrel, some p/e for the engine grill mesh covers and tool holders but the best addition back then was the addition of individual 'magic track' links. Not workable but the next best thing, each link is a friction fit with the next one, so assemble to shape and then run some thin glue into the joints and then they can be painted. I will be building it as this end of war JagdTiger with all the last updates that these machines received, ribbed front mudguards, extra track hooks and hoist 'pilze' welded centrally to to each edge of the roof.

I bought this kit of the Porsche suspensioned JagdTiger (Hunting Tiger) in 2009. The model is a version of the JagdTiger that was an attempt to make a simpler and cheaper version of this huge tank killing machine (78 tons) that was armed with a 12.8cm PaK 44 gun. This suspension system used eight pivoting rocking arm suspension units attached to the sides of the hull, much like the system utilised on the Ferdinand/Elephant tank hunters. There were problems with the system handling the weight off road and, during tight turning manoeuvres the suspension units were liable to break off. In the end, the tank hunter variant was made using the same internal, torsion bar suspension system as the King Tiger, this version was popularly known as the Henschel variant. The number of JagdTigers built with the Porsche suspension system was quite low, depending on the reference material, different numbers are given, the book that I have (Ryton Publications) cites only 4 were built using the Porsche system (Wikipedia cites 11) and 77 with the Henschel suspension system. Most of these Porsche type JagdTigers were built when zimmerit anti-magnetic mine coating was being applied so I obtained a set of Atak zimmerit to add to my kit, most photos only show this version in training units painted in overall grey, however, there is one photo showing a camouflaged, non-zimmerit covered JagdTiger so that's how I will build my kit. The kit contents are still bagged up, the 6 sprues of tracks would be hard work to clean up and assemble so I have got a set of T-Rex 3D printed tracks to replace them with. There is a small fret of p/e for tool clamps and an aluminium turned barrel. I've assembled a short length of track to ensure it fits the drive sprockets. Having 5 parts to each paired link it's a slow, fiddley assembly but it looks a lot better than the kit parts. Everything is all ready for the start of the STGB, roll on the 30th of March. Any questions or comments are always welcome.

Having recently finished building RFM’s Pz.IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Pz.IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another of their 1/35 armour kits. This year I’ve not started another softskin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking I’m building a Tamya kit😉 As the end of last year was all about Pz.IV. J’s for me, this year I’m maxing out on StuG’s. Over the last few months, I’ve almost finished Dragon’s lovely StuG III Ausf F8 kit which will be based on an Italian campaign vehicle. I have a few decent period images which capture some nice features. I also ‘blitzed’ through Takom’s StuG III Ausf G (Early). This was built straight out of the box with no intention of losing any sleep over it's many inaccuracies. So, as I’m slowly getting to know my way around a Pz.III chassis and some of the later StuG variants, I figured why not check out one of RFM’s StuG's. This is their Ausf G late kit and it’s a belter. I’ve read there are a few issues with some small features (what kit doesn’t) but they are minimal and nothing that cannot be easily remedied. According to those in the know on ML, it is the perfect base kit that requires very little extra work to portray a decent Alkett built last production Ausf G. This kit is the non interior 2022 released kit 5086 and you can build a StuG III or a StuH42. RFM 5086 info It includes both Alkett and MIAG track guards as it incorporates sprues from their Pz.III as well as from previous StuG kits. The tracks are RFM’s own individual links which incorporates a jig to complete small runs, speeding up construction. There is no turned metal barrel, but the one-piece slide moulded one is easy to clean up. There are two frets of photoetch. The largest covers the Schurzen plates. The wheels incorporate poly caps which I personally like and fit nice and snug just like on many a Tamiya kit. The lower hull is of flatpack design and fits together perfectly. The torsion bars can be made workable or you can simply glue the ends onto the lower hull. There is even an option to build adjustable shock absorbers (dampers). Your choice. When it comes to the bow armour the StuG went through quite a few production design changes in this area. Unlike another certain Chinese manufacturer I could mention, the correct parts are called out, even though there are several other variant parts available on the sprues. The running gear lines up really nicely as does all the features on the rear plate. The interlocking bow plate portion which would be partly visible just forward of each sprocket plate on each lower hull side plate stranglely isn't moulded on. I chiselled out the feature and added the welding marks. The transmission plate is just dry fitted in the image below. One of the oddities in the kit is RFM’s choice of tracks. The open guide horn type was seen on StuG’s III's, just not many have been photographed on these late production vehicles. A period image that captured my attention had the more common type seen on these variants and as I had a 3D set of T-Rex links, I figured these were the ones to go for. That decision wasn’t one of my best! Unlike two previous sets which I had a blast with, these were a right PITA. They definitely were not from the same batch as my previous sets as the material was far more brittle. I even had some links break which hasn't happened before! On top of that the pins did not appear to exhibit any taper and a large percentage were already damaged in their small bags! TBH I though of contacting the seller but figured I should as least see if I can build up two complete runs first. I did, but only just and the pins were falling out as quick as I popped them back in🤬 In the end after a few choice words and a few strong shandies, I brush painted over the pin ends on the links with Vallejo grey primer. This seemed to solve the issue but I then found the links were a tight fit over the sprocket and I don't trust them to take much more handling! After all this track building agro I have decided to give the kit tracks a go. Also, as RFM only offer the earlier style round tow cable clamps, I ordered the correct square aftermarket Alkett factory produced ones from Panzerwerk Design Alkett late tow cable brackets. Whilst postage is way in excess of their cost, I also plumped for some of their Type 6B tracks Pz.III & IV type 6B links at the same time. Their tracks look good and have favourable reviews, so I will build them up when they come and choose whether they trump the kit tracks later in the build. As it would give the option to display the vehicle on uneven ground I opted to utilise the kit's adjustable torsion bar set up which will work with the optional moveable damper units. Due to the kit's engineering in this area the adjusable torsion bars naturaly allow the wheels to lift over obstacles, and the moveable damper units equally compress, but they do not naturally rebound. This effect is visible in the first image below. The first and last front bogie wheels are slightly effected by the track tension and are pulled a little higher than they would normally sit on level ground. If positioned on uneven ground they can always be fixed, so it’s nice to have this option. The T-Rex tracks do look the business but this set was far from perfect. The track tension on the other side is a touch loser on the image below so all the bogie wheels sit nice and level. One construction fix which was pointed out to me by a fellow modeller is to do with two strengthening ribs (parts D13 & D14) which you are instructed to add to the undersides of the gun box in step 13. What they do in essence is create a channel which allows the gun box to align squarely onto both of the thin lower hull side plates. The problem is, that they only need the fixing to be off a fraction and the channel will become too narrow and will interfere with what should be a simple slot down on to the lower hull sides. To remedy this potential fit issue, you just need attach the parts directly to the lower hull instead. There are slots in the lower hull side plates too, so it’s a really simple fix. The lower hull interior includes a fighting compartment floor to which the gun cradle fixing mount is attached. Only the inner two of the four spars that fit between the lower hull back plate to the extension over the exhausts featured on these late production vehicles. It is not an issue to fit them as instructed as they are not visible (unless you are an IPMS/USA judge) 🫣 and the extension rear plate you fit has the correct bolt head detail for just the two inner ones that remained. In step 15 you get to choose your gun type and unlike any previous manufacturer's releases, each gets its own breech and cradle parts and construction steps. It is worth mentioning that in step 19 it is not at all clear in which order you attach your breech sub-assembly, gun box, lower hull and mantlet all together! I’m sure there are a few ways that folks have managed to do this successfully, but it is not at all obvious and quite a conundrum to figure out. Breech assembly with added weld detail on the recuperator and an aftermarket barrel. I incorporated the kit's spring so I can leave it adjustable to ensure I end up with the correct length of visible barrel outside of the mantlet. The full breech sub-assembly with the mantlet and muzzle brake dry fitted. I’m currently building up the engine deck which comes as a separate moulding but I’m not going to attach all the parts permanently until I pick some aftermarket stowage. Can anybody confirm whether aftermarket resin StuG engine deck stowage parts fix over the armoured hatches or directly to an unpopulated deck? Engine deck, armoured engine hatches and gun box roof still dry fitted. Progress so far The loaders front armour plate provided in the kit is of the earlier production design which incorporated two (50 & 30mm) plates. Late Ausf G had a single 80mm plate. It would be quite easy to hide the join if it were not for the fact that the kit’s outer 30mm plate part does not feature the extra portion that curves down to match the contours of the inner plate. I shaped a similar thickness piece of grey styrene to mimic the outer plate then scribed torch marks over both to hide the join. I understand the correct single 80mm plate can be found spare on the sprues of many a Dragon StuG kit.

A model I began to do, but 25% did not walk over. There is small time and it is needed to hurry.

I bought this a few months ago on a whim, (basically the price was really good), so I thought I'd crack on with it, because it is a big, complex kit. Due to a lack of photographic evidence I can play around with it without getting too concerned about overall accuracy and just have fun with it, colouring, detailing and weathering wise. It comes in a big box with some great cover art. This is the version Night Shift did and his videos on it are great. Full of great ideas and top tips. I won't do the obligatory sprue shot, but needless to say there are plenty of them. It's a lot of kit. But everything is in there so I won't need any aftermarket. Plus I have some spare stuff from my Sturmtiger builds just in case. I bought some decals ages ago. I think F05 will be my choice. Cheers all.👍

Below some images of my 1:72 Heller M4 conversion into a Sherman Ic Hybrid, to depict one from the 1st Coldstream Guards in Northern Germany in the spring of 1945. The cast front end came from a Dragon M4A1 (large hatch), left over after I used the turret and suspension on a Wee Friends M4A1 Duplex Drive, RB metal 17 pounder barrel on an extended Heller gun shield, radio box from a Dragon Sherman Vc, turret box from Dan Taylor Modelworks and the 'Tulip' launch rails and rockets from the Dragon 'Sherman V Tulip' kit. The tracks with extended end connectors are from OKB Grigorov. Stowage is from Black Dog, Dan Taylor and some 3D printed stuff. Decals are from an old Bison Decals sheet. Peter

All hello! I will build the British heavy tank.

This was a kit I finished last year for a GB. I have been learning how to paint figures so I decided to add a base, some extra stowage and a couple of men. The figures were from a Miniart set, which although not well moulded, they have decent enough poses and paint reasonably well. The base is from Reality In Scale and is well made. Very porous so needs a lot of primer. It would have been better if I had followed their instructions and given it a good coating of PVA. I also got a new camera phone so have been playing around with that. Apologies for some blurring etc.👍 Thanks for viewing and all the best.