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  1. Here is my completed USS Gearing, built from the Dragon 1/350 kit, out of the box apart from railings and some home made improvisations. Little did I know that, when I was gifted this kit by some friends at work (my birthday, 2019) this was going to become my most ambitious project yet. Pretty much from day 1 you have to deal with sub-millimetre pieces (each Oerlikon has to be put together from 9 parts, including a mixture of polystyrene and photoetch). My learning curve became very, very steep (this is only my third ship). The rigging is largely human hair, although for some thicker and thinner parts I used surgical silk and Caenis thread, respectively. I also substituted the jackstaff and the aerials sticking out of the aft stack with metal (hypodermic needle and tungsten wire), since the parts provided in the kit looked unnaturally thick, and kept breaking during the build anyway. There were some problems with the instructions. I have compiled a list of tips to avoid getting into trouble in my web site (address in my signature panel below). Feel free to email me for any questions. I am sorry for the quality of my photos, particularly in comparison with some of the stunning stuff I have seen in this web site. I only have my iPhone for this.
  2. For some reason I don't quite understand I have been fascinated since my teenager years by helicopter cruisers. As you may recall many navies tried to build thee in the 1960's and 70's, but ultimately this class of ship became relegated to being considered a failed experiment. So, in the back of my mind I have this vague plan that I will try to build a series of these, including for example the Haruna, the Italian Vittorio Veneto, the Jeanne d'Arc. Anyway, this plan started to materialise when I got (for an eBay bargain) a Matchbox kit of the HMS Tiger, represented after its 1968 conversion to "helicopter and command cruiser". I did not really know much about this kit other than it was the only one available in 1/700. Opening the box was a rude shock. You know you are in trouble when the images of the built product in the instructions (which presumably represent the manufacturer's best hopes) look like one of those little plastic ships that we used to get in cereal boxes. The kit is ancient, and it does not lie about its origins (see first photo). This got me scrambling for anything that would help make the model look a bit more like a real ship. Fortunately I found that Atlantic models has created a photoetch set for this kit, which I will be using in this build. Well, one has to start somewhere, and here is step one.
  3. Neptunes of the Brazilian Air Force used to fly low over the beaches of Salvador, in Northeastern Brazil, where I spent a few years as a child, and I still remember how loud they were. Attached are the first pictures my just completed rendition of the Hasegawa P2V-7 Neptune kit, of 1987 vintage. This model represents a plane that served with VP-11 in the mid-60's, undertaking long and lonely patrols of the North Atlantic in the search for Soviet submarines. The Hasegawa kit has raised panels, little interior detail, and no detail at all in the wheel bays. However the shape is accurate, the fit is fine, and there is almost no flash. It does have some annoying features, like the canopy that comes in two halves to be joined along the midline, and propellers in which each blade comes separately. These require a lot of test fitting and tweaking to look good (best to use slow setting cement). This second-hand kit came bundled with an Eduard internal detail set, which was OK, but to be honest did not add much. In addition, the decals that came with the kit disintegrated upon testing, so I purchased a set from PrintScale (cat. no. 72-106). Alas, this aftermarket set was incomplete, and somewhat inaccurate, requiring some improvisation using bits and pieces from the spares box, and even rescuing some bits from the Hasegawa set (piecing them together like a mosaic). I also show here a couple of pictures of the Neptune next to the PB4Y-2 Privateer, the previous generation of US Navy patrol bombers (both 1/72). This is just to make the point that the Neptunes are about the same size as a Privateer (itself a stretched B-24 Liberator), which was a bit surprising to me. I think the Neptunes look smaller than they are, mostly on account of the large canopy (which reflects it being designed for the ocean patrol job) and huge engines. For more pictures and details about the build, check this model in my web page (address in the signature panel).
  4. Greetings to everyone! At the end of a long break, I can add the article of a model I finished to the forum Our model, which is the subject of this article, is PM Model's veteran kit YAK-15. A model that has very few parts and can be considered highly compatible (except for the canopy) can be preferred for preference.
  5. Coleman MB4 Aviation Tractor (229632) 1:32 VideoAviation.com Manufactured in the 1950s, the American Coleman MB4 was built and distributed by Coleman Company, who are more well known for BBQ equipment and gas canisters these days. This short aviation tractor was fitted with a Chrysler 230 flathead petrol engine, with an electric clutch and manual transmission linked to all four wheels, which were all selectively steerable for easy manoeuvring, just by operating a lever. It was capable of pulling a load up to 10,000 pounds from the pintle-hooks at the front and rear, with a small load or crew carrying area to the rear. Their heyday was the 60s and 70s where they saw service in the US military, but even now some are still in use, although they’re likely to be pulling less glamorous than a Phantom or SR-71 these days. How the mighty have fallen. The Kit This resin kit of the once ubiquitous airfield tractor has been available from VideoAviation in other scales before, and now we have one in 1:32, with a commensurate increase in terms of detail and size, but also of technology used to create the kit. The main parts are still cast in cream-coloured resin, but a number of the smaller, more delicate parts are 3D printed using SLA techniques, with the now-familiar tendrils or fingers holding them on their printing base. The traditional resin comprises twenty-seven parts, while the 3D printed parts make up a further nineteen, seven clear resin parts, four Photo-Etch (PE) parts on a small fret, plus a sheet of pre-cut clear acetate sheet for most of the flat-pane windows. Detail is excellent, and some of the largest resin parts have been pre-sanded to remove the casting blocks. You will have to saw or nip off the many fingers from the resin parts, and there is a slip of paper warning you to take care to avoid breaking parts, which is good advice. Construction begins with the resin dash, which has a solitary brake pedal attached underneath for insertion later into the cab, which is next, the lower half of which is detailed with accelerator pedal, rear-wheel steering lock, and a small stowage box, with the driver controls inserted into slots in the floor, before the two crew seats are added, and these 3D printed parts are very well designed. The dash slides into the lower cab on a small ledge and the steering column with 3D printed wheel are added in a sit-up-and-beg fashion common to commercial vehicles. Two trapezoid resin parts are installed under the cab, with a warning to test fit before applying the glue, to ensure they are square to the cab and each other. The cab is then glued onto the large chassis along with the engine cowling, radiator grille and chunky front bumper, plus two short sections at the rear. The load bed is made up from five sections, which is fitted to the rear of the chassis, and again test-fitting is recommended. A scrap diagram shows how the parts should look once installed and glued, which is helpful before outfitting the chassis with the detail parts. On the rear bed the two L-shaped 3D printed safety rails are slotted into holes in the resin flats, and 3D front fenders are fitted around the front wheel arches to the sides of the engine cowling. At this stage you have a cabriolet tractor, which is remedied by adding the five resin panels and windscreens around the top of the cab, checking and fettling before gluing, as usual. The doors can be left open or ajar by removing a small lip on the inside top, with the area shown on an accompanying diagram. The four wheels with their hub caps are fixed to the axles, aligning the casting block area with the ground to hide its lack of tread. A box is glued to the left fender, and a clear resin light on a PE bracket is glued onto each side of the front bulkhead of the cab, with a work light at the rear of the cab, and two small clear lights on the rear, plus two towing shackles for front and rear, one open, one closed. There is a clear ‘plant pot’ warning light for the top of the roof, plus a viewing port in the front, both of which are clear resin, then the clear acetate is freed from its sheet and inserted into the cab from the outside using a non-marring or fogging glue, and the final parts are two PE windscreen wipers for the front screen, suspended from the top of the frame. Both of those items can be seen below, with the acetate stapled to a protective piece of blue card. Markings A small decal sheet is included in the box that contains black stripes for the front and rear bumpers, a Coleman logo for the radiator, some US Air Force logos for the cowling, and four tyre pressure stencils above each wheel. The recommended colour scheme is overall yellow, but olive green is also an option, and if you have references showing one in other colours, go for it. You can find some useful images on the VideoAviation website by clicking on the link at the bottom of our review. Conclusion The level of detail available from the box is outstanding, and has risen commensurate with its scale to afford the modeller with a great diorama item, or as a model in its own right. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Afternoon all, First post in a while but I have been busy squirreling away on a few subjects. I've been deployed outside the country for a few months, so these were mainly built within the confides of what equipment I had available. Therefore, some parts are missing, aerials lost in transit or just simply didn't have the time to complete the finer detail. Up first is Italeri's (ESCI) Fokker 27, built entirely out of the box in Air UK. I had quite a few issues with seams on this bird, which I put down to either poor plastic or improper gluing of the join. The white also didn't lay as smoothly as I'd hoped, but never mind! Next up are two relics from the Falklands, both courtesy of Italeri. The Harrier steps are from Brengun and the flight tags are Airwaves. I am aware the tail rotors are the wrong way around and one side of the main rotor blades are upside down in the folded position, but these have a molded droop in them. The Wessex was bought second hand with part of the hump missing infront of the radome, so this is yet to be added. Finally is the Revell rebox of the CyberHobby Sea Vixen FAW.2 with Pavla resin Ejector seats and Aires resin wheels. I understand it's not the most accurate of models, but the engineering of the kit and option of the wing fold meant it went togeather with minimal fuss. Many thanks for looking. I'll see you on the next build..
  7. Mikoyan MiG-15 Weekend Edition (7459) 1:72 Eduard The Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15 was the most famous fighter aircraft to emerge from behind the Iron Curtain during the early years of the Cold War. Although a Soviet design, the MiG-15 made use of captured German research on the aerodynamic properties of swept wings, combined with a reverse engineered Rolls Royce Nene turbojet engine naively provided by the British Government. The resulting aircraft was a triumph, easily outclassing the more conventional jet fighters then in service, benefiting from the inclusion of swept wings that gave it impressive flight characteristics. In order to ensure it could perform adequately as a bomber destroyer, it packed a formidable punch, with two 23mm cannons and a single 37mm cannon mounted in a pack under the nose. The MiG-15 was the original production version, which lacked the plethora of small improvements made to the follow-on Bis variant. The MiG-15 made its combat debut during the Korean War, where it provided a nasty shock for UN forces in theatre. It wasn't until the North American F-86 Sabre became available that American forces had anything able to hold its own against the new Soviet fighter, and even the Sabre required a good pilot at the controls to give it an edge. The MiG-15 went on to become one of the most widely produced jet fighters in history and saw service with air forces around the world. There are a small number still flight-worthy, and they wow crowds at air shows, not least due to the compact size of the airframe. The Kit Eduard have acquired a reputation for excellent models, and this one is no different, and although this boxing originates from 2012, it has a finesse that some 1:72 kit manufacturers struggle to achieve even today. This weekend boxing has a new set of decals and suits either the novice builder, or anyone that doesn’t wish to get bogged down with resin or Photo-Etch (PE) details, a perfect tonic for those paralysed by so-called AMS – Advanced Modeller Syndrome. The name suggests you could complete the model over the weekend, which is an unlikely thing for me, but many modellers could probably manage it! It arrives in a newly re-designed blue-themed Weekend box, and inside are three sprues moulded in the blue-grey plastic often used by Eduard and a single sprue moulded in clear plastic. The sprues are the same as those provided with the earlier bis edition, with the exception of the sprue that holds the fuselage halves. The instruction book is a glossy, stapled A4 affair which includes full-colour painting diagrams at the rear. The quality of the mouldings is up to the usual Eduard standard. Details are clean and crisp and there are no flaws to be seen anywhere. The surface detail on the outside of the airframe is comprised of fine recessed panel lines and delicately engraved rivet and fastener detail. Construction begins with the cockpit sidewalls, painting them and adding decals to the tops of equipment boxes moulded into the curved sides that are actually the sides of the bifurcated intake trunking that is diverted around the cockpit. The seat with decals for belts is made of two parts and inserted into the floor, which has the control column and forward/aft bulkheads glued in place to support the sidewalls with their curved edges and raised orientation arrows. The nose gear bay is inserted under the front of the cockpit, which is then put to one side while the exhaust trunking is made up from two halves and a front bulkhead with engine details moulded into it. You have a choice of a flat instrument panel to which you add a decal, or a detailed panel that you paint. Or you could cheat and apply the decal to the textured panel and smother it with decal softener so it conforms to the surfaces. It is inserted into the cockpit tub during closure of the fuselage along with the exhaust tube and the rudder panels, with a tiny cartoon bunny advising you to put some nose weight into the front of the fuselage before things get too far along. It doesn’t give you a number for the nose weight, but it does tell you to drill a hole in the fuselage top if you are depicting some of the decal options. The wings are made of two halves each, and have a couple of holes drilled out for underwing tanks, plus a pitot probe in the starboard wing tip area. The wings fit to the fuselage with slot and tab as well as an aft pin in the wing root, and the low T-tail has a pair of pins to hold them in place, each surface a single part. Under the nose is still open at this stage, which is cured by an insert and another reminder from the bunny about nose weight. The intake lip with splitter insert and the nose gear leg are inserted along with the two bay doors, and next to it is the 37mm cannon barrel in a shallow trough, and on the other side of the nose wheel the two lower calibre barrels have their own recesses. The main gear wheels have a single tyre part, and a choice of two styles of hubs, which then fix to the axle on the gear leg with a captive bay door, and finally slots into the outer end of the bay, propped up with a retraction jack and two more bay doors around the periphery. A number of scrap diagrams show how the gear legs, doors and the overall aircraft should look once this stage is completed. Sitting the Mig on its own wheels allows the gunsight and rear deck to be put into the cockpit, plus the windscreen and a choice of open or closed canopy with internal parts added inside, according to your choice. One or two antenna stalks are fixed nearby, depending on which decal option you choose. Two styles of drop-tanks are supplied in this boxing, one type being semi-conformal with no pylon, the other having a tripod pylon insert and twin stabilising fins at the rear. They both fit into the same holes under the wings that were drilled out earlier. Hopefully. Markings Early Weekend boxings would include a solitary decal option, but this has been increasing over the years to the stage that this boxing includes four options on the main sheet, and a full set of stencils on the smaller sheet. From the box you can build one of the following: S/n 141303, 3 Fighter Air Regiment, Brno-Tuřany, Czechoslovakia, c.1958 S/n 0615334 Maj. V I Kolyadin, 28 GIAP, 151 GIAD, 64 IAK, Mukden, China, Dec 1950 EP-01 Josef Kúkel, 1 Fighter Air Division, Hradec Králové, Ruzyně, Sep 4th 1955 S/n 231611, Romanian Air Force, late 1950s Decals are by Eduard, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Don’t forget that as of last year, the carrier film of the decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them film-free, making the decals much more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion The kit is both accurate and well-engineered, putting other 1:72 kits of the type in the shade. The level of detail Eduard have packed in is superb, as is the treatment of surface details. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. After a hiatus of about a year, I finally got around to finishing my Berlin Brigade Chieftain. I just couldn't face the masking. I'm not totally happy with the finish so, no, I'm not uploading bigger pictures! The paint are the Ammo by Mig box set with a light pin wash of thinned oil paint. I noticed some errors in the Takom guide and went with pictures I could find on-line, and even then I made mistakes. The front underside should be white and brown but I realised too late. The construction is nearly identical to my Mk 11, less the TOGS. I've kept the weathering light as they were kept clean constantly and especially polished twice a year for the Queen's Birthday Parade and the Allied Forces Parade and in-between mostly going backwards and forwards to Ruhleben down the Heer Strasse Bill
  9. Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG 15 Bis, Red 40, 1953 I completed my model of this Soviet fighter which I finished with the colors and markings of the mount of pilot Nikolay Shkodin, who obtained five victories during the Korean war. I chose not to install the provided jet engine inside the fuselage and to display it next to the aircraft. For increased detailing, I used aftermarket seatbelt, instrument panel and main wheels from Eduard's. The jet engine Klimov-vk1 which is provided with the kit is adequately reproduced for this scale and, as said, I am displaying it on a static stand which was scratch built. The model was finished with mixes of Tamiya acrylic colors, while Vallejo metallic paints were used for the metallic finished parts. I sprayed the camouflage bands free-hand to obtain feathered demarcations, however, I am afraid that the obtained effect that might be a bit out of scale. I replaced the 2 x 23 mm gun muzzles with aluminium tubes, while the muzzle of the 37 mm cannon is an Eduard replacement. I also substantially modified the oversimplified pilot seat to better reproduce the type which was used at the time of the depicted aircraft. Panel lines were obtained by oil colors washes and other small stains with watercolor pencils. This is my first Russian subject and I found it rather an interesting aircraft to build (the build log can be found under this link: MiG15 build log). I hope that you like my final pictures. Best regards, Dan
  10. Ilyushin Il-28 - Warpaint #130 Guideline Publications This book is originally by author Nikolay Yakubovich, translated by Kevin Bridge, and covers the birth and development of the Iluyshin Il-28, known as the Beagle in NATO circles, the Soviet Union’s first medium jet bomber after WWII, thanks partly to the foolishness of the British Government at the time, who naively sold the Soviets examples of the Nene jet engine, allowing them to use them in projects until they could reverse-engineer their own, which they eventually improved upon as the RD-45. The Il-28 flew with two RD-45 engines slung under its straight wings in streamlined nacelles, topping 500mph with a crew of three and a reasonable bomb-load that it could haul a decent distance. The book is in the usual Warpaint format of portrait A4(ish) with a soft card cover but has an increased page count from the norm and utilises a perfect binding instead of the usual pair of staples to accommodate the total of 64 pages plus content printed on the four sides of the glossy covers, and a loose sheet of A2 plans in 1:72 printed on both sides and penned by the author. A long section details the birth of the type with its influences from captured Nazi designs such as the Arado Ar.234, the route to the finalised design, then the subsequent variants and history carries on throughout the book, incorporating a summary of the operational experiences of the bomber and its various incarnations. The pages include a lot of useful pictures with informative captions of aircraft on the apron, on the field, in the air, during trials, crashed and under maintenance with panels missing, plus appropriate photos and drawings dotted around, but the engineering-type drawings have Cyrillic text, so you'll have to rely on the captions unless you read Russian. The Colours & Markings section shows the narrow range of official schemes that the type was painted, but the many profiles illustrate that camouflage was applied at times where suitable. The "In Detail" section has some numbered close-up photos with matching captions providing excellent information that will be a boon to modellers as well as people that just like to know what everything does. My favourite variant is the ugly one of course, which is the two-cockpit trainer version that has a slight droop-snoot, although nothing quite so ugly as the Yak-38 or Mig-25 2-seaters. Gotta love ‘em! Conclusion The Warpaint series always gets a thumbs-up due to their inability to produce a bad one. This is an excellent book that will see plenty of use by anyone interest in, or building this semi-ubiquitous aircraft from the early Cold War. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. This is my build of the AFV Club 1/700 kit of the Knox class frigates. The kit comes with 6 options of markings, but I chose to represent USS Elmer Montgomery (FF-1082) because it served in the Atlantic. The Knox class frigates were frequent visitors of my home city of Rio de Janeiro, and on a few occasions I had the privilege of coming on board. I have fond memories of these ships designed for the tough job of escorting transatlantic convoys against soviet submarines swarming down the GIUK gap, in case the Cold War turned hot. This is a nice and affordable kit that gives you an accurately shaped representation of these ships, but not without problems (for a build report, and more photos, check my web site; address in the signature panel below). It is also a bit light on detail, and with next to zero instructions for painting. I intended to enhance the model by using a photoetch set, but ended up not using most of it, given that the sizes of the parts were incorrectly represented. The railing I used was generic (Big Blue Boy 1/700 modern USN set), and other parts were scratch-built (e.g. details of the masts, aerials). The decals provided in the kit were a bit all over the place, some oversized (e.g. the ship's name on the stern) and some undersized (e.g. the red cycles around the ASROC and CIWS), so a few had to be home-printed (with mixed results). The rigging was done using human hair. The seascape base was inspired by photos of FF-1082 off the coast of Norway in 1988 (see image below, from navsource.org). Given that the sea was a bit choppy I did not think it was appropriate to leave the helicopter on the pad, so I represented it overflying the ship, propped up by a glass capillary tube. Best regards Marcello
  12. I've gone the markings for a Fallingbostel based vehicle after it had been for a cabby round Soltau. A fun little build - I haven't done a WIP. The only alterations are adding a shroud for the barrel out of tissue and watered down pva, and clear headlights (which I've ended up covering in mud. The main paints are Mig NATO green mixed with a few drops of oily ochre and lightened black. I intended black shading but got carried away with the green and lost most of it. Quick Shine Floor polish for the gloss, Tamiya matt varnish for the final, black oil paint for the pin wash and Mig pigment mixed with plaster and thinners for the mud. My first attempt with the pigment mug and I'm chuffed with how it came out.
  13. I've made a start on the Conqueror on Monday. I've gone unconventional in that I started with the tracks, as I had a crap day at work and they were quite therapeutic, and then started on the turret. I find the running gear quite monotonous at the best of times and this one has more wheels than most: The tracks came in sets of two and had to be separated and cleaned off. The barrel is interesting as it came in two parts, but not in halves as you would expect, but two complete tubes which you put end on end. It is completely hollow and I'm scratching my head how they moulded them as they came just on a normal sprue side on. You lot are a bad influence. Once I was happy with just making a kit straight out of the box, but no, now I find my self making mantle shrouds out of tissue paper and PVA and drilling out the barrel on the 30 cal. All in all, so far the kit fits together reasonably well with not too much flash. It is another kit that has workable tracks, PE, metal springs, and even copper wire for the towing cable but no clear parts. It's strange. Thankfully I have some lens left over from the Centurion that fit but the sights I'll have to live with. Oh, this isn't a tank to buy expecting exiting and varied paint scheme. Only 180 ish were made and all were based in Germany for it's 11 years of service so it's deep bronze green all round. As I mentioned the size before, here is the upper hull compared to a Chieftain: The extra width is down the the wider tracks as when you compare the lower hull: The Chieftain only appears smaller because the hull is slopped but the Conqueror's is square sided. It is funny that the Conqueror was a heavy tank at 64 tonnes but Challenger 2 is still just a MBT at, as I once heard it described in a broad Yorkshire accent, "70 tonnes of grumbling dermatitis". Bill
  14. Hi everyone! I decided to start something new on the side and get off the F-16 I am building for a while because I am getting a bit burnt out with it to be honest. I decided to start something fresher and I thought simpler.... naive I am!! So I decided to start with the Hasegawa Mig-27 Flogger D in the 1/72: This particular release is from 2003 although I am suspecting it comes from an old old kit as a quick search in Scalemates suggests. Also the combination of raised and depressed panel lines suggests. Furthermore there some significant flash in the kit pointing to a worn out mold. So these are the sprues out of the box: Plus a clear sprue with the 2 piece canopy, which can be mounted either close or open and a couple of clear part for signaling lights on the side of the main fuselage. Some details of a few parts: Flash: Now off we go! First things first I did the research in the following websites if you wanna have a look around (best walkarounds I could find): http://scalemodels.ru/news/4987-Walkaround-mig-27-kokpit-tekhnicheskijj-muzejj-toljatti-rossija-MiG-27-Flogger-cockpit-Tolyatti.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3565-Walkaround-mig-27k-iz-gosudarstvennogo-muzeja-aviacii-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3566-Walkaround-mig-23bm-mig-27-Flogger-D-zhuljany-kiev.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/3082-mig-27k-v-muzee-aviacionnojj-tekhniki-v-borovojj.html http://scalemodels.ru/news/1737-Walkaround-mig-27-irkutsk-MiG-27-Flogger-D-Irkutsk.html ( THIS IS MY MAIN REFERENCE) http://scalemodels.ru/news/1373-Walkaround-mig-27-saratov-MiG-27-Flogger-Saratov.html I am not sure if I am missing something but first thing to strike me was the nose. Completely wrong shape, at least for the Flogger D model, which should be as follow: (http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat.php?id=24979&cid=567&min=60&orderby=dateA&show=12) Photo credit True that there are differences between the mig-27 models: But all those nice targeting systems on the nose (Kaira-1 system) completely non existing on the Hasegawa kit! So I set myself to fix this offend! Original nose: A bit of standard Milliput and water to shape the Kaira-1 system main structure: Sanding and reshapping will follow to lower the profile of the structure, also painted the sockets black and cut open the frontal element of the Kaira-1 using a photo-etched mini saw: Now time for the optics! Clear sprue which has been reshaped thinner and polished: Cut the tip for the frontal element of the lens (see reference picture above): A smear of CA and it is fixed! Now the second optical element at the front: This is just a clear styrene sheet cut and glued into place # Next will be covering all elements with the armoured glass windows which will be more clear styrene sheet and nose it is ready to go! I have also been working on the frontal wheel bay which again kit version is FAAAAAAAAAAAAR from reality! I will prepare another post just focusing on that one After that comes the cockpit which in the kit is mysteriously missing! As always comments / suggestions are more than welcome! Hope you like this Cheers, Alex P.S. if you wanna check my F-16 build this is the link http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965428-172-heller-f-16-ab-old-issue-first-model-fighter/
  15. Mig-15Bis Update Sets (For Bronco/Hobby 2000) 1:48 Eduard This new tooling has popped out from partners Bronco and Hobby 2000 recently, and Eduard have been hard at it creating some detail improvements over and above what’s available in the box. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior SPACE (3DL48016) Part of Eduard’s new range of combination 3D Printed decals with a pre-painted PE sheet to complement the details. The 3D Printed sheet contains a brand-new multi-part instrument panel with glossy dial faces plus a number of dials, additional instruments on the side consoles and a few more for the sidewalls. The PE set has a set of four-point seatbelts; rudder pedals with straps; a substantial change to the kit seat, which has the stirrups, side supports and headrest removed before adding new parts that are more accurate. The rear deck is skinned with a new part and the sills are lined too, then an opener is glued to the port side of the canopy. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1179) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. These belts are for use with the kit seat, a caveat you’ll understand better if you read the review of the SPACE cockpit set first. Masks (EX775) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with very little effort. Masks Tface (EX776) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Mig-15 Wheels (648622) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set includes three new wheels in grey resin, and a nose wheel leg in tougher white resin, plus a set of kabuki tape masks (not pictured) that makes cutting the demarcation between the tyres and hubs cleanly and with no fuss. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Hi Pals, A small diorama with my last tank, a Takom Chieftain MK2, inspired by the kit's boxart and some photo of the real model. I add a link to the RTI, and another to the WIP, in case there is anyone interested in seeing more photos, with the model alone. Thanks for watch and comments. Cheers mates.
  17. Hello everyone! This is Mikro Mir kit, which I really like and highly recommend. I'd venture to say it is the crispiest and most delicate short-run kit I've seen. Mikro Mir's Tu-22 comes close, and I am looking forward to building that one. Having checked the gear details I had serious doubts whether designing PE details for it makes any sense (in the end it did - there are still some tiny PE bits that can further enhance it). I like the slightly irregular, hair thin panel lines, sharp trailing edges of wings and tail; the plastic is good to work with, no big fit issues and it is so lovely tiny. The scene is loosely based on a monument airplane that used to be displayed on a square in Świdnica, Poland. I wanted to build two-seater variant of Yak-23, however Polish Air Force never used two-seater Yak-23s which instills a major and obvious historical inaccuracy. Having this one already onboard I was less worried by some other bits that may or may not fit any particular reference photos. The airplane on display was easily accessible, kids favorite, and as such subject of slow but steady decay and settling on one single "proper" state of the airframe to reproduce is nearly impossible. (decals are custom printed, PE parts used in my usual prototype fashion, some scratchbuilt elements) Here are couple of period photos from Świdnica: And here is the model: Thank you! Leszek
  18. Some time ago I was designing turned/PE missiles that are now Shelf Oddity mainstay. I also did the design for 3d print of Sparrow I missile back then. The F7U Cutlass or F3H Demon that would best accommodate the early pointy Sparrow are still on wish list. At some point however I bumped into the following pictures: Here we are: late 1940s / early 1950s, Point Mugu Test Center - Naval Air Station west of Los Angeles. First Sparrow missile, named XAAM-N-2 (X for experimental, A for air launched, another A for air target, M for missile, N as Navy and 2 - well - number two) is casually tested on F6F Hellcat, one that is well outside its color comfort zone (as indicated by further research). Perfect, isn't it? After theWW2 the dawn of jets saw Hellcats quickly shifted to secondary/support roles. Fortunately the aircraft was designed in traditional Grumman fashion - sturdy, tough and capable of taking abuse. The test machine was F6F-5K (drone) converted back to be piloted. Steel blast shield was added to the cabin wall in expectance of test missile bahaving unexpectedly. The regular centerline fuel tank was substituted by a pod containing cameras, pylon fitted to the right wing and there it was. The (X)AAM-N-2 Sparrow I was much more pointy than its later variants. Much faster looking. Hugely cumbersome homing process required the pilot to maintain the target locked throughout the whole flight of the missile. It found very limited use in late 1950s on F7U Cutlass and F3H Demon but was quickly phased out and replaced by semi-active homing Sparrow III (AIM-7B). This is Platz kit which means good fit, good detail, whatever's faulty is my own contribution. Of course no manufacturer does such exotic one-offs, therefore own input was required with regard to: - missile (3d print) - pylon (plastic sheet) - centerline pod (plastic sprue+some small bits) - lengthened tailwheel leg (brass rod) - decals (custom printed in MF Zone) - blast shield (aluminium foil) The model: Thanks!
  19. MiG-23MS Red Eagles YF-113E from the secretive American Red Eagles squadron under the Constant Peg program out of Tonopah, Nevada in the 80s. MiG-21 F-13 Red Eagles YF-110B Ex Indonesian aircraft also in the Red Eagles. I stripped down this Hi Kit resin 1/48 MiG Ye-8 Prototype Red 82, rebuilt the cockpit and gave it a better paint job And I did the same for an old Italeri Eurofighter, I stripped it and rebuilt it as the second prototype to pose with the Ye-8 and a Chinese Chengdu J-10, all are canard/delta winged aircraft I can't resist an Aggressor, this was a fairly quick build of the Wingman Models F-21A A very easy build of the Micro Mir 1/350 Project 1710 Beluga I had shelved the Tamiya F-14A after attempting to make it the red striped wolf livery of the first cruise VF-1 Wolfpack that I really liked a lot but the red paint went a bit wrong so after a spell I decided that the VF-84 scheme was probably the coolest scheme ever so went with the kit's decals - which were amazing. Perfectly cut for the kit. I had no idea the old US Marines TF-9J Cougars were used in Vietnam until I read a magazine article explaining their use as Forward Air Controllers. The photos showed some gun exhaust grimy well used aircraft which led to this 'quick' build (the kit is no Tamiya...) which was not an easy build. And finally to end the year the Collect-Aire resin YF-23, a great kit, half built but then shelved for years. Recent info allowed me to finally accurately build the cockpit and so built the Hobbyboss YF-23 at the same time as the second prototype. Both aircraft competed against the YF-22 Advanced Tactical Fighter contract which eventually led to the F-22A Raptor. And the last thing I finished in 2020, not a model but it did have a lot of detail painting....Happy New Year
  20. Better late than never! NATO forces are being bolstered by forward deployed recon birds in W. Germany, based out of Bremgarten Air Base near Freiburg. Due to the fairly limited time, this will be a largely OoB build. At this time I will likely be building RF-4E 35+23.
  21. Build #1 - 1/72 MiG-21 Fishbed Original tool/boxing. I forget how I ended up with this one, but it is the oldest kit in the stash...both in terms of possession and outright age. The only kit I've had longer is the Academy F-8...which is currently next to the bench technically in work, therefore I don't consider it part of the stash. There has been a little painting started...however it's incorrect for the early F-13s so it will all need to be repainted anyways. I've got a couple little bits to dress it up, though I'm not certain on the decals yet. I'll have to size them up, as technically the set is for the MiG-15. I do have some Polish MiG-21 decals (from a MF) that I can rob from if need be. Intent is to build wheels up in flight...hence the addition of the pilot (hope they fit ).
  22. Hi All! This is my latest finished build in 1/144 scale. Why ”NOTSnik”? Because of the Sputnik. In 1956 US Navy Naval Ordnance Test Station was developing various unmanned vehicles. One of them being air launched vehicle propelled by motors from SUBROC antisubmarine missile. Following Sputnik launch this idea was successfully sold to high authorities as simple and low-cost way of achieving satelite orbits. Originally known as ”Project Pilot” it quickly gained nickname NOTSnik. Douglas F4D-1 Skyray was assigned as a carrier, effectively acting as missile ”first stage”. Under a lot of political pressure, in summer of 1958 six launches were attempted. All of them failed due to technical difficulties. The program was classified until 1994. The model depicts early aerodynamic test vehicle, later missile would be much larger, consisting of four SUBROC motors wrapped together, somewhat similar to first stage of Nike-Hercules SAM. I used Miniwing kit upgraded with Shelf Oddity photoetched details and decals.
  23. Dear modelling enthusiasts For my first contribution to Britmodeller, I attach here some images of my just completed 1/700 HMS Eagle (R.05). This is the old 1976 Fujimi kit, and was a bit of a challenge due to reasons including old, brittle plastic, and missing pieces (eBay purchase). The only upgrade was a set of 1/700 railing. Otherwise built out of the box and home made items. This was also my first attempt at creating an ocean diorama base. I tried to represent the Eagle at high speed. Best regards Marcello
  24. Hello everyone! This is P-42 (former T-10-15 Su-27 demonstrator modified to set time to climb records) in 1/144 scale. Base kit is Trumpeter, with some chopping done to align with the original airframe. Anything that was not essential to the very basic purpose of flight - including paint finish - was removed. Tips of vertical stabilizers, ventral fins, IR dome, tail sting - are all gone, so are most of antennas. In 1986-7 the P-42, equipped with uprated engines which along with other modifications gave thrust to weight ratio of ~2.0, set series of time-to-climb records, beating those set in 1975 by likewise lightened and stripped out F-15 Streak Eagle. This model served as a prototype for Shelf Oddity brass Time and place: Thanks for watching! Leszek
  25. So folks with the M113 rapidly coming to an end I thought I'd let you all in on the next project. Undecided on the scheme but it might be the NATO 3 colour jobbie ? The beautifully done Master MG-42, this will be a modern MG-3 though. Expensive but worth it And a couple of crew figures It will be a few days before I cut plastic on this one. Regards Dan
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