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Droppers (00026 & 00037) No Scale - Eduard More Photo-Etch (PE) tools from Eduard, and you'll like these ones, as they are are glue dispensers. Droppers? In PE? Yes, but not in the way you think. Long Version (00026) These have a long handle, and at the end is a small C-shaped section that uses capillary action to grab a drop of glue when you dip it into a puddle. I'd imagine that the primary use would be as a super-glue (CA) dropper, to glue those hard-to-reach landing gear actuator rams and other fine parts that need just a tiny bit of glue. There are ten in the pack, and all you have to do is nip them carefully from the fret. The handle is criss-crossed with grooves on both sides to make it easier to handle and more "grippy". Short version (00037) The shorter version is designed to be chucked into an X-Acto style handle for ease of use, and a lesser chance of losing them on the desk. You'll also not get them sticking to the cutting mat with the residue after use. Useage Dipping the tip in will attract a variable blob of CA, which can be dabbed and re-dabbed until the glue is gone. There is also a little tab in the centre of the tapering part, which if you fold it out at a right-angle gives you a perfect stand, so that you can put down the applicator without it sticking to the desk. I wouldn't flip it back and forth too often though, as brass has a tendency to fatigue quite quickly and it will fall off, leaving you stand-less. If you wipe the tip quickly after use, build-up of glue can be minimised, and when it becomes unusable, you can either throw it out if you're feeling profligate, or scrape it clean with a sharp curved blade, being careful not to skewer yourself during the process. I use the lids of Pringles cans as my CA dispensing tray, as you can see from the pictures, and it has both plenty of surface area for subsequent puddles of CA, and you can flex it to clean off the dried CA a number of times before it either cracks or just looks messy. Now you have a good reason to buy (and eat) more Pringles! I'm quite ashamed of my collection of lids, truth be told. Conclusion These little things are great, and much more accurate than the end of a cocktail stick or the edge of a blade. Keep them clean, and you should get plenty of service from a pack. Very bloomin' useful! Very highly recommended. Long Version Short Version Review sample courtesy of

Hello A new problem: I now need to connect styrene to a moderately waxy plastic (probably PE polyethylene or possibly PP polypropylene - I'm not 100% sure). All my experiments with plastic friendly epoxy glues & CA so far all say "won't work with PP or PE" ! One option would be to insert a couple of metal pins. But even then, aside of going for a good tight push fit, so far I cant find anything to actually bond to PE or PP. Any suggestions? Many thanks P.S. What about this: Starloc's "The 100% UNIVERSAL BONDING PACK" Which claims to bond: "TEFLON, PTFE, DELRIN, PVC, POLYETHYLENE, POLYPROPYLENE, SILICONE" http://www.shop4glue.com/universal-glue-bond-adhesive-repair-pack-metal-all-plastics-ptfe-polyethylene-polypropylene-silicone-81-p.asp The whole site looks extremely dodgy (!) and could well be a scam. But anyone here tried any of their stuff?

Wasn't sure where to post this. I figured since almost all modern aircraft are trike geared this would be a good place. A friend alerted me to the possibility that lead used as weight for tricycle geared models can undergo a chemical reaction that causes it to crystallize and expand over time. The expanding lead will eventually exert enough force to spilt seams and destroy even single piece nose cones. He showed me pictures of models that were anywhere from 10 to 15 years old, split to pieces and looking pretty much unsalavageable. He believes the problem is more likely to occur with "old" lead--supposedly newer lead alloys are less likely to crystallize. There is also some speculation that this may be a reaction between lead and CA glue. Here is a link to that European site showing pix of models split apart by expanding lead/CA: http://www.ratomodel...ca/lead_ca.html I use lead bird shot secured with CA glue to weight my trike geared models, so this news really has me worried. I have a lot of rare, OOP models and I would hate to see them destroyed this way. Has anyone experienced this problem? What are your oldest models with lead weight and what is their condition? Do you typically use CA to secure your lead weights? What are the typical weather conditions where you live? Could it be an issue of extreme humidity or temperature? Perhaps other factors causing it to happen? Or factors to prevent it? Why would it happen to some, but not others? Thanks for any further thoughts on this--I'm really worried for the future of my models. Karl

Roket Re-Cap Super Glue Rejuvinators Deluxe Materials Most modellers buy Super Glue (CA – Cyano Acrylate) at some time in our careers and a lot of us have a bottle or more on hand at all times. The 20g bottles are most commonly bought once you get used to the medium, but they often outlast their caps due to the gradual build-up of crusty glue on the outside, a rubbery sludge on the inside and a build up of cured glue inside the cap. Eventually, you can no longer unblock the tube for very long at all, and it'll invariably get replaced before being fully empty, which is wasteful. Deluxe Materials supply their Roket glue in such bottles, but rather than rub their hands and pocket the cash when you buy a new bottle, they have this handy Re-Cap solution. Inside the long narrow blister pack you will find three caps for 20g CA bottles, and hidden inside the two white ones are a pair of new applicator heads to replace your clogged up & gruesome tip with. There are two types of thread in CA glue bottles (that's news to me too), and the white ones cater for the wider neck (20mm to the outside of the thread), while the clear threaded applicator with the small black cap caters for the narrower (18mm to the outside of the thread). It just so happens that I had one of each on my desk, which was handy! In addition, there is a small blue fine applicator tip that slips over any of the three applicator tips, and stays in place by friction fit. Conclusion If you've ever wasted any CA, this handy set will be of interest, just remember that there are two different threads in use before you buy. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of