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  1. Folks, to channel Monty Python, now for something completely different. This is my first 3D printed model and I bought it in the expectation that all it would need was a quick paint and bob's your mother's brother, but it didn't work out quite like that. The trials and tribulations of the WIP are here. I've been after a Sultan for ages since I spent many an exercise in the back of one. I am too tight to pay for the Accurate Armour so when I come across this one I took the plunge as it is half the price. The model itself is from Badger 3D and for the price I cannot grumble. Some details were spot on an others weren't. I chopped off the GPMG as it was terrible and the rear view mirrors were well over scale. My impression is it was designed in 1/72 and scaled up. I swopped out from the spares box the jerrycan and the antenna bases. I drilled out the light and the rubies and replaced with clear resin. The only extras I bought were the masts from SMM. The decals are from the spares box. Paints are a mixture of Tamiya/Mig and Humbrol. Gloss coat was Quick Shine and the washes were oil and terps. I also used a ton of Mister Surfacer and Mig Anti-slip paste. Bill
  2. Hello all. I made this Comet about 2-3 years ago when i was about 12 despite the fact it looks mediocre at best i needed something to post so I could say Happy new year Happy new Year Cheers Enes
  3. Morris Bofors C9/B Late (35209) 1:35 Thunder Model via Albion Alloys During WWII, after crews of light artillery in transport began firing their weapons from the back of the trucks they were carried upon to save dismounting and increase the speed that they could relocate, the British Military commissioned Morris Motors to create a new mounted weapon that would utilise the chassis of the successful C8 Quad Tractor that was used to tow heavy artillery throughout the war. The official specification was Carrier, SP, 4x4, 40 mm AA, but it was more commonly known as the Morris C9/B, which shared the engine bay cowling up to the windscreen, but differed massively aft of there, mounting a Bofors 40 mm L/60 gun, which was the pre-eminent 40mm auto-cannon of the day, originating in Sweden, but proliferated around the world by the end of WWII. Its 40mm shells were effective up to 23,500 feet in the anti-aircraft role, and it could fire over 120 rounds a minute if it could be fed with ammunition quickly enough. The type was made in large numbers, serving in Europe in large quantities, and it was especially useful in North Africa where its tracer rounds were also inventively used to designate tracks across minefields and indicate lines of attack where it was unclear. The were also unloaded early on D-Day, providing ad hoc air defence that could be deployed and moved quickly without the delays inherent with unlimbering towed artillery. It was also used to provide fire support during the Allied ground advances through France and into Germany, where its 40mm rounds would devastate all but the most heavily armoured targets, especially personnel and softskin vehicles, which would be shredded by the weight of fire. Later in the war they were used on the south coast of Britain as part of the defence against the new terror weapon the V-1 flying bomb that the Nazis were launching from France as an overly-optimistic last-ditch attempt to turn the tide of war. Of course, once they were pushed back from the coastal areas, the V-1 threat to London and the surrounding area evaporated, to be replaced briefly by the ballistic V-2, against which there was no defence. The Kit This is a new tooling from Thunder Model, filling another gap in the WWII British armour and softskin range, and it’s excellent news. The kit arrives in a shallow top-opening box with a captive lid, and inside are eleven sprues of grey styrene, a small clear sprue, a Ziploc bag of five resin tyres, another bag with three sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass and a sheet of decals inside, a length of copper wire, the instruction booklet with errata sheet tucked inside, and a high-gloss colour sheet with painting and marking profiles on both sides, created for them by AK Interactive, using their acrylic and RealColor paint codes to assist with finishing your model. Detail is excellent, which includes the depiction of the engine and chassis, and with the addition of the PE and the resin tyres, it’s unlikely you’ll need to splash out on aftermarket unless you’re in need of extra detail above-and-beyond usual levels. Construction begins with the engine, which is a highly detailed assembly of over thirty parts, including PE and styrene to recreate the block, gearbox, and the transmission. The completed motor is trapped between two sub-frame rails, with a cross-brace at the front, and an asymmetric section at the narrower rear end. The main chassis rails are double-thickness to avoid sink-marks, and there are three substantial cross-members toward the rear, and another small frame at the front that is joined by more cross-members, then it accepts the engine sub-frame so that the front axle can be built under the engine, mounted beneath the rails on leaf-springs, the axle itself highly detailed, utilising some parts without glue that give it the possibility of workable wheels. The rear axle is similarly made, and all axles have large drum-assemblies at each end in preparation for the tyres that will be fitted at the end. The axles are held against the leaf springs by strong U-bolts, which are made from lengths of wire that is included in the kit. Many detail parts are fitted on and around the axles to stabilise the suspension and link the steering to the front axle, including a long drive-shaft that sends power to the rear axle, with a short one providing power to the front axle on this 4x4 vehicle. The exhaust is a long slender part with a narrow muffler that is threaded under the chassis to the engine manifold, and exits at the left side of the vehicle around the midpoint. The next step is to create the open cab, which is made from angular panels, starting with the lower parts of the structure, which has stowage boxes under the three seats, that attach via two C-shaped tubular frames underneath, the rear leg supporting the backrest, which can be folded flat. A fairing is made over the rear of the engine, and the simple dashboard has six decals applied to represent the white dial legends and stencils on the transmission hump. More details are added, including foot pedals, levers, a hose on the engine, and a substantial cross-member that mates with the rear of the cab floor, after which the steering column and wheel are fixed in the cab, and an airbox with linked hose that is surprisingly located within the cab. The space in front of the cab shows the front of the engine at this stage, which has the radiator, fairing, feeder hoses and radiator cap, without gluing one lower side of the radiator to the chassis. A PE cooling fan has its blades twisted to an angle before it is installed at the front of the engine and behind the radiator. The cowling is a three-part affair, and the right-hand section needs a groove filed on one side so that the steering wheel clears it sufficiently, topping off the bonnet with a single part, which prevents modelling the vehicle with the engine exposed unless you either make new cowling parts, wait for a PE set with cowling parts, or carry out surgery on the kit parts. The Bofors installation is attached to the main chassis on its own sub-frame, which is made first, with the turret ring in the centre of a long assembly that straddles the main chassis. It is joined by a pair of stepped outriggers to the rear, and the completed main area of the floor is joined to the chassis, adding a set of pioneer tools on a lower panel, held in position by a pair of straps that are secured by large wingnuts. The rear “bumper” is also a support for the ends of the raised outriggers, and is completed over two steps, after which you find out why it needed to be strong, as there are ten large crates of ammo built from six parts each, plus PE shackles and carry-handles. They are stacked up on the outriggers, and can be locked down by fitting brackets that latch on the handles, snugged down by more wingnuts, as shown in a scrap diagram. Stowage boxes are fitted under the rear of the outriggers, with separate door parts, and a further two smaller ammo crates are supplied to fill any empty space on the ends of the outriggers. Two fuel tanks are made from four parts each, and are suspended from the sides of the chassis on PE brackets that are folded up from straight straps, with a diagram showing their shape from the front. You’ll need to bend four of these, so it may be worthwhile creating a styrene jig from sheet or strip to help you fold them to a uniform shape. They are each protected at the sides by a box with an open bottom, which are folded up from two L-shaped PE parts, covering the filler hatch with a PE lid that is folded into a shallow box, again with no bottom. Two more stowage boxes are fitted under the back of the front arches, and these too have separate doors. To keep the truck stable when firing, a set of support cones are deployed, but in transport mode, they are stowed on the front arches. They are built from a bucket-shaped part that is mounted on a three-layer circular dish, with a fold-down bracket holding them in position from front and rear, plus a pair of PE stops at the front of the arch to prevent them slipping off. The headlamps with clear lenses are attached either side of the radiator on the bumper, plugging into holes in the upper surface. The support cone mechanisms are made from two scissor-links that are chosen depending on whether you plan to pose your model in firing position or in transit. The same rods link the scissors together, with a pivot at the bottom that holds a circular dished plate in position for transit, adding the cone and foot if modelling them deployed. They fix to both sides of the chassis in front of the rear wheels, with the assembly pivoted to the side for transport to decrease the vehicle's width. Another support assembly is fixed under the rear of the load bed, and the last support fits in the centre of the front cross-brace in front of the radiator. The 40mm Bofors is surrounded by a tread-plated and sectioned floor, which is mounted on a tubular frame that rotates with the gun. The base is fixed to the frame first, adding the angular plates around the frame, then fitting the base for the gun in the centre along with some other small details and controls. The core of the gun breech is built from eight parts, then sandwiched between the two outer surfaces, adding an impressive styrene spring to the front that has been created with the use of slide-moulding, but take care removing it from the sprue, as a poor set of nippers could fracture the part. See my recent review of the GodHand Ultimate Nippers if you’re concerned. More detail parts are fitted to the breech and to the sides of the elevation track, gluing the barrel into the front of the breech, then adding recuperators under it, linked to the substantial trunnions, taking note of where not to glue so that the gun can pivot once completed. The assembly is then mated to the floor, and detailing proceeds, adding equipment, mechanisms, and controls to the weapon, plus a pair of two-layer splinter shields fixed to the front of the gun via dog-leg brackets, adding single-layer screens at an angle to the sides. Sighting equipment on a triangular frame is installed above the breech, and in slots in the splinter shield, giving the gunner a bicycle-style seat with shallow backrest, mounted to the left side of the floor, and filling the W-shaped PE rack (a template is found nearby) next to the gun’s shell feeder with a clip of 40mm rounds inserted. The PE ring-sights are fitted to the sighting mechanisms in tandem on both sides of the splinter shield, with a pair of small PE wingnuts giving the impression they’re holding them in place instead of super glue. Two styles of winding handles are supplied for the left side of the gun, finishing work on the weapon for a while. A spare barrel is carried on a rack that is fitted to the right side of the load area, moulded as a barrel with integral spring and separate muzzle that is attached to the rack by being fed through two brackets that are glued to the rack, and detailed with two tiny C-shaped handles near the centre. It mates to the outrigger on two tabs, and then there is a page of steps filled with small parts added around the vehicle, including PE mudflaps, various PE brackets and caps, a pair of rectangular tools on a PE shackle, and a short section of floor at the rear of the vehicle is also made from a sheet of PE. More PE is used in creating a fuel can storage rack, which holds three styrene cans with PE handles and separate fillers, fitting into the lower centre section of the chassis on the left at the same time as the gun mount is lowered into position. The flared muzzle of the gun’s barrel is left off until now, although if you plan to use the travel lock, you will need to leave it off until the barrel is slipped through the detailed part that pivots into a recess in the back of the floor when not in use. A protective cover is folded up from four PE parts and placed over the ammo feed if the gun is not in use, then almost as an afterthought the wheels are fitted to the finished model. The wheels are worthy of note, as Thunder Model have gone to the trouble of supplying resin wheels from the outset, which only need a little sanding to remove the remains of the link to the casting block on the lower side of the tread, offering much better detail than can usually be achieved with styrene parts that are often made from two halves, or a lamination of several layers for detailed tread patterns. Each wheel has a two-part hub cap added in the centre, and the spare tyre is shown hovering in space on the little diagram on the back inside page, which is why it feels like an afterthought. As to the location for the tyre, most pictures don’t show it anywhere on the vehicle, but several photos and some of the early renders of the kit when it was announced shows the tyre lodged between the engine cowling and the left front wheel arch. It is likely it would need a strap to hold it in position, which you could fabricate from tape, some left-over PE or lead foil. If you’d rather not have to adjust the instructions provided to correct it according to the errata sheet included in the instructions, you can download the revised instructions here. Markings There are two decal options on the small sheet, both of which have camouflage schemes applied to them. From the box you can build one of the following: 1st Infantry Division, Italy 1944 119th Light Anti-Aircraft Regiment, 15th Scottish Infantry Division, North West Europe, 1944 Decals are printed anonymously, and have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is a welcome addition to the range of British WWII AFV subjects available, and it should build into a well-detailed, impressive replica of this highly effective mobile anti-aircraft system that kept enemy attacks from reaching strategic areas under Allied control. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Folks, like bus, wait for ages and two come together. I've been on leave this week so I've had a chance to complete one that I had started and was just waiting for a chance to finish. I bought it last year when it was released if nothing else to encourage Tamiya to do more British vehicles. It is virtually OOB, except I couldn't help myself and replace the bar handles with brass wire and add some texture to the turret and the front armour plate. One thing I did do was pair down the birdcage sight as it was chunky. As expected for Tamiya, it assembled like a dream with minimal seam lines and zero flash. My only criticism is, unlike the Bronco offering, you can only do a WW2 version. It stayed in British service until 1960 in Hong Kong and foreign service until the 80's. Bronco includes the fish tail exhaust and the smoke dischargers for a Type B. Bronco also includes working tracks, but I must admit the link and length tracks Tamiya include are the best fitting I've ever come across. They were the perfect length. Paint is Mig SCC15, gloss coat Quick Shine, Vallejo matt coat, oil paint and terps pin wash, and Mig pigments.
  5. Hi Folks, I've not been on here for a while - life has gotten in the way of me completing anything. A couple of weeks ago I went into a local shop and got this on a whim: And then the Minister for Defence tweeted that the trials versions had arrived: it inspired me to create what I imagine the British version would look like. I was going to leave off the side bins but the tweet has them in place. It was also pointed out to me that the RWS Revell include is the wrong one - we went with the M151 Protector, which Trumpeter handily do one in 1/35. The decals are spares from a Chally 2 I did a while back. I wanted to do it as a 20 ABCT as I know they will be receiving them but I didn't have a spare mailed fist. I scratch built the hazard plates and fitted them the same as we have for the MAN trucks. Interestingly the MANs have the German style convoy light so I left the kit one. contr The Trumpeter RWS is nicely detailed although I had to add a carry handle for the 50 cal. It was sharply moulded but seems everywhere and fiddly to construct. I also noticed that is sat higher than the RWS that came with it (the worst part of the kit to be honest) so I had to shorten the tower for it otherwise it looked daft. I also scratch built (what I assume to be) the front camera and the trunking for it. I added anti-slip to the front as it was smooth rectangles but left the roof as it had some texture. I wish I had done the roof as well as it has been lost in the painting. The kit itself was normal Revell fare - soft plastic with not the sharpest moulding. It went together surprisingly well and, unlike the Hobby Boss version, included a rudimentary driving compartment and the mission module is a separate construction. To get the mission module to fit properly I had to remove the floor plate of the section it fits into. As mentioned the RWS was the worst part but thankfully I didn't need it. Paints are a mixture of Humbrol, Mig, and Hataka. I blacked shaded and initially used Mig SCC 15, but it come out too dark, added some yellow and it come out too bright so ended up going over it with Hataka HTK-A143 BS Dark Green (BS381C:641) which come out just right. Quick Shine gloss coat and Vallejo matt varnish. Weathering was using Mig dark earth and dusk pigments.
  6. From Mengs Facebook and Twitter pages, coming in December: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0e96TNBwSVjVEESy9ptTB7XH2zjSf7KPGCHcdAhnZ5tnnyMS9EohgbarbJUvEbqUYl&id=100028842416849 The Fierce "Mastiff" on the Battlefield The Mastiff 2 is a 6X6 Wheeled Protected Patrol Vehicle upgraded from the Mastiff Mine Resistant Ambush Protected (MRAP) vehicle. In 2006, the UK started purchasing the first batch of Mastiff MRAP vehicles based on the Cougar MRAP vehicle for the operations in Iraq and Afghanistan. The Mastiff has improved protection and self-defense capabilities. Its hull is fully protected by slat armor and windows have double-layer bulletproof glass which offers good visibility. The Mastiff 2 has interior spall liners, blast attenuating seats, stronger axles, upgraded suspension, run-flat tires and explosion-proof fuel tank. In July 2020, with the gradual withdrawal of Western troops from Iraq and Afghanistan, the UK announced that a number of armored vehicles, incl. the Mastiff 2, would be retired from active duty. In April 2022, the UK announced that it would provide Ukraine with about 80 armored vehicles, including the Mastiff 2. This MENG 1/35 British Mastiff 2 6x6 Wheeled Protected Patrol Vehicle plastic model will be 233mm long and 114mm wide when assembled. This kit includes two paint schemes. Now, let’s check the details. SS-012 British Mastiff 2 6x6 Wheeled Protected Patrol Vehicle Scale: 1/35 Available in: December 2022 The Mastiff 2 Wheeled Protected Patrol Vehicle has been a star on the battlefield with its high mobility and excellent protection. Don't you want to build such a unique Protected Patrol Vehicle model yourself?
  7. Royal Marines Officer (16012) 1:16 ICM via Hannants Ltd The Royal Marines are a naval fighting force that can trace their lineage back to the 1600s, and are a proud group of soldiers that go through a tough selection process that sorts out the wannabes from the actual hard-men that can handle the rough and tumble of their taxing schedule, which includes official duties as well as their Commando and other roles that they undertake when required. The Kit This figure model depicts a Lieutenant in the Royal Marines (If I’ve read his shoulder boards right) dressed in his dark blue ceremonial uniform with red piping down his pants, and with his ceremonial sword held out at waist height resting over his right shoulder, a white and red peaked cap atop his head, and three medals on his left breast pocket. The uniform is Best Blue, and the sword is based on the Infantry Sword pattern of 1897, with a three-quarter basket guard on the hilt, pierced and beautifully etched with a pattern incorporating the royal cypher of the Queen. The scabbard is held at rest vertically by his free hand on a belt-mount that has an over-shoulder stabilising strap. It arrives in ICM’s usual top-opening box with captive inner lid, and inside are two sprues of grey styrene, a sprue of black styrene and plinth, plus a single instruction sheet printed in colour on both sides. At the bottom of the box you will also find a print of the photo-realistic artwork, which could be framed and hung if you're so minded. Construction and painting guides are shown on the same set of diagrams, using the parts on the grey sprues, which comprise separate head, torso, legs and arms, plus individual tails to his jacket and two shoulder boards. Due to the position of the hands around the sword and scabbard, the fingers are supplied separately moulded, with two strap sections for the scabbard on the left. The sword is finely sculpted and has a separate hand guard that slips over the blade during construction. The base is moulded in black styrene, and has a choice of four different surfaces for the top and a flat base for the bottom. The choices comprise a flat asphalt surface plus three styles of cobble or paving stones. Markings There are no decals included in the box, but the various badges, medals and emblems are all shown with colour call-outs, and they are all large enough to be painted carefully by hand, although the piping down the trousers will need a steady hand, some decal strip, or careful masking. Conclusion This is a handsome kit of a ceremonial uniform worn by one of the most elite British soldiers with a huge vault of history standing behind this young officer. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  8. I picked up the Revell 1/72 V-2 rocket yesterday on impulse, as I already have the (Tamiy 1/48th) V-1 to go with it. Of the 4 schemes in the box, I'm most likely to do it in the black/white prototype scheme, but I wondered f anyone knew of any decals or paint schemes for a V-2 captured by the British, just to add another bout of deciding on colour schemes? I've done a Hannants and a google search but come up with nothing.
  9. Valentine Mk.IX, 50 RTR, 23rd Armoured Brigade, Tunisia 1943 The Mk.IX valentine was made in answer to the need of a more powerful gun than the 2pdr. To accommodate the 6pdr gun the turret needed to be redesigned. Vickers engineers freed up space for the new gun by reducing the turret crew to 2 men and the coaxial machinegun and smoke bomb launcher were removed. The removal of the machine gun meant that the tank couldn't defend itself against infantry and so was unpopular with its crews. The bomb launcher issue was partially resolved by mounting two grenade launchers externally. But in essence the Mk.IX had turned the Valentine into a tank destroyer. The Bronco kit itself is pretty comprehensive and the only aftermarket I used was the RB Models metal gun barrel and the front fenders were replaced with brass sheet to allow some damage to be added. The model was painted in the Desert Pink ZI / Dark Olive Green PFI scheme with MRP paints. The sand/dust weathering effects were created with a mix of pigments. The thumb print on the front fender in the above photo has since been removed. A few detail photos. And finally the photo I used as a reference. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the way this one has turned out but as always there are things that I felt that I could have done better. The urge to get this finished so that I can start a new project has meant that some additional stowage and crew will have to wait for another day. The work in progress for this build can be found here; Valentine Mk.IX work in progress. Thanks for taking the time to have a look and feel free to point out anything I may have missed or that could be improved upon. Wayne P.S. Some of the photos appear a little too warm on my screen but I haven't profiled this monitor and really don't want to edit them again.
  10. My very first Tamiya and my very first 1/35, this kit has a very close link to my family. My grandad drove Chieftains at the same time in the same place and in the same regiment - and a close family friend fixed them. So I tried my hand at it. The kit is excellent, maybe the best I've ever done. No flash and all the parts fitted flush, I would recommend. Everything apart from the barrel. It's wonky, and it wouldn't sit right without the first piece having a massive gap, so I'm gonna have to live with it. If you it's have any advice I'd love to hear it. Tamiya gets top marks from a newbie builder, and it sits well on my shelf
  11. Hi All, Just completed this Street Fighter. Thanks for viewing, for more photos of this tank click on the link : http://ptearsenal.blogspot.com/2020/03/challenger-ii-street-fighter.html
  12. I decided to revisit the Scots Greys. I had a few boxes to work with ( I still have quite a few more} and some I'd painted several years ago that I thought I could improve on. That was lasy month so things have moved on a little. The situation at present is A few horses. A few troopers The horses have more detail than shows on the photo. They're a little bleached out on here. The troopers are almost finished so after that it's a lot of varnishing to look forward to. Then the final modifications on the horses and a lot of grass tufts to generate.. For those who're attempting to count, there are two more troopers than horses si I have a little leeway deciding which I use. As I said , there's plenty more still in boxes.
  13. Hello everybody! I'm new here and haven't built a 1/35 kit in er... decades. But with the whole of my family cutting, gluing and painting over the last couple of months of the Covid19 situation, it finally dawned on me that I could join in at the craft table too. So I've decided to start small and see how it goes with the MiniArt 1/35 Dingo Mk. 1b. It looks a like a nice, well moulded kit in the box with some PE included though I've noticed some errors in the decals (more of that later). My plan is to build it more-or-less OOTB as a way to practice a few skills. I'll probably add some stowage and I've seen photos of a Dingo with some sort of additional metal plate between the wheel arches on the right hand side, so I expect I'll try to add that. Some photos also show what looks like an aerial with a pennant on it on the front left of the vehicle and I might be tempted by that too if I can find more information. I won't be following the order of the instructions to the letter because I want to construct in sub-modules for ease of painting. As a modest start, I've assembled the wheels and the first parts of the hull. The wheels comprise two parts - a "front" that includes the front hub and tyres and a "rear" for the rear of the hub. The two parts fit very snugly and offer the first opportunity for a minor tweak: I've drilled out the wheel lightening holes with a 1.2mm bit which makes a definite improvement to their appearance. Thirty-six holes later: I've also drilled holes in the rear to accept cocktail sticks for ease of handling at the painting stage. Next job will be all the fiddly bits for fitting the wheels to the hull.
  14. Saw this advert in the October Airfix magazine, which interested me; two 1/72 kits in one box, Already released Chieftain mk 10 & mk. 11; https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TAK05006?result-token=1l8eG and the advert for this forthcoming new release, FV432 mk2/1 and Cheiftain Mk 5. which interests me. Link and length tracks in 1/72, though? Will I need new eyes?
  15. Doing it again I'm afraid..... Will hopefully turn into a cleaner version of this.
  16. Here I post this British 18pdr, built and painted by my father. I found the camouflage and made the pictures . Not many first world war kits in 1/35, so when we saw this in a model kit exhibition at just 5 € we snatched it. Sad that the crew is just 3, five would have been more like it. Placed upon an improvised diorama. The kit is very simple, but looks quite good all the same. If all were so simple, we would have a few thousands more in house!
  17. Here is a little diversion while my milliput hardens on the "Biggun". I wanted to try my hand at a little something more "Normal" I know me and Normal go together like cheese and chalk. BUt I AM going to try my bestus to make this as OOB as possible. NO guarantees though. OK. Today for your amusement is Special Hobby's 1/48 Fairey Albacore. Special Hobby kits aren't that bad once you understand their "quirks" I've built a few in the past. Where I'm REALLY out of my comfort zone is this being a biplane and will require rigging. The last time I tried that was with Tamiyas 1/48 Fairey Swordfish and that wasn't pretty. One of these days I'm going to have to strip it all back down and see if I can redo it proper, but that is for another day and another build. I hope you will all follow along and please do offer advice. This being a stringbag AND British I want to make sure I do it and it's Service Justice. I have decided to build it as a Mk1 from 828 Squadron Hal Far, Malta 1942
  18. Continuing with the modeling saga of less-known types, that nonetheless made significant contributions to aviation history and development, not to mention aesthetics, here is the Sopwith Bat Boat of 1913, credited as the first successful amphibian built in the UK. This is another pioneer (Like the recently-posted Lee-Richards annular wing) that should make BMs proud, being a local achievement. Thomas Sopwith came from the boating field, and used in the Bat Boat a type of construction technique called consuta: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consuta The Bat Boat design went through several incarnations. The model here represents the plane as it won the Mortimer-Singer amphibian competition of 1913, with retractable landing gear. Photos show that the plane in this configuration had an inline engine, the fore plane removed, twin rudders under the horizontal tail, and canvas fairing on the space between lower plane and fuselage. Photos show other versions with what looks like a rotary engine, different radiators, different tails and other changes. Beware that some plans out there mix features of them all, and are in general suspicious, therefore always rely on photos and compare them with the plans. There are, as far as I know, two 1/72 kits of this plane, the Joystick vacuum-formed I am using and a Luedemann resin kit, that to my eyes looks just a wee-bit chunky and an itsy-bitsy heavy-handed. I got this kit thanks to the good offices of fellow modeler L. Santos, who saw it in shop and called me to see if I wanted it (you already know the answer), thanks, L.! For those unfamiliar with this brand, you get the usual vac sheets, but also white metal parts and airfoiled struts material, both facilitating building greatly. In this case rods to build the frames that support the tail were also included. The kit came to me started. The vac sheets have been primed, the wings separated (but not cleaned or thinned), and the fuselage sides where already cut and given some reinforcement tabs typical of what we vac builders use. I do not particularly appreciate started kits, but what little it was done to this kit was ok, so I set to continue the build. The kit allows for different versions to be built. The metal parts consist of engine, fuel tank (so-so), prop (very poor) and wheels (inaccurate, solid ones). The vac floats are better replaced with a plastic rod and cones or similar, since they are not particularly good. The kit as I got it:
  19. Hello, I am in the process of building a 1:200 Hasegawa DC-10-30. I would like to make it a British Airways in Landor livery. All I yet have found is 1:144 from Airline Hobby Suppliers. Anybody have any idea of where I can purchase these decals in 1:200? Another option could perhaps be to get the decals of an aircraft of roughly the same size as a DC-10.30, for example a B-767, and buy separate windows and doors? Best regards PanAmFlyer2
  20. Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  21. The smallish Gadfly I started life in 1929 as an ABC Scorpion-powered conventional monoplane of simple lines and conservative design. Soon after, though, its ailerons were deleted and instead a new device was installed, the so-called "oyster" rotary ailerons, becoming the Gadfly II. Gadfly III had a Salmson AD9 radial. This rather simple and small Gadfly is representative of an entry-level project, but there are plenty of other good candidates out there. I happened to have an old Aeroclub Salmson 9AD white metal engine (Aeroclub accessory), so I will be building the Gadfly III (G-AARK) that had that engine. Photos can be found of it flying with either "oyster" or normal ailerons, but I will do the "oyster" ones, since have never seen them on a model. The techniques and resources used for the build are far from being written in stone, and there are many ways to solve scratchbuilding engineering challenges. The build is meant to be only indicative of some basic approaches to the task, for those interested in scratchbuilding endeavors. The completed model is here:
  22. Hi, can anyone recommend 28mm figures for British Infantry and Indians from the French and Indian war? May be some French and Civilians too? I do not need large numbers but I am looking for good quality figures. TIA Ingo
  23. Curiosity as much as anything else, but it crossed my mind to wonder if tank tracks were painted or otherwise coated after production to provide a measure of corrosion protection? Obviously any such coating wouldn't survive long in use when the tracks were mounted on the vehicle but at least some of them must have been kept in storage for a while before use. Interested in any info. John
  24. I am currently building the Asuka/Tasca Direct Vision Sherman II (35-014), as used at the Battle of El Alamein, and I’ve hit a wee snag. According to the instructions, and the odd photo I’ve found, 9th Lancers’ Shermans carried a jerrycan on the left rear of the hull. The problem is that the instructions simply show it ‘stuck’ in place - which, obviously, it can’t have been in real life. All of the photos I’ve seen are too small and/or grainy to really make out what sort of method was used to secure the can in place, other than that there’s a strap running up around the can and under the handles. Does anyone have any definitive information on the ‘holder’ for the can please?
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