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Found 210 results

  1. Part 1 So, a new WIP for me to start and then leave partially completed because I've still not got around to buying the materials I need for the display and for my R2 kit. Anyway I was eager to start this one because I've finally got my hands on a compressor and airbrush so I can paint the parts I want to a little easier, I guessed this would be a good kit to start with. I should add at this point that I have been chronicling this one for a while now, waiting until I actually had some real progress to how before posting, but as with all my projects I have precious little spare time so diving out to my 'Nest' in the garage does not happen as much as I would like. First things first let's flip over the build mat - can't build a Storm Trooper on the 'metric' side can we! Here are the obligatory spruce shots. And this is just the water slide transfer sheet, but the plan is to use as few of these as possible I decided to prime and top coat the black parts whilst they are still on the spruces. For this I'm using Vallejo Black Primer. I snipped off the obvious white parts and gave everything a coating of primer. Then I panicked as I realised I had just painted the translucent eye shields So I snipped these off the spire and quickly rubbed a cotton bud soaked in airbrush cleaner over it to remove the paint. Phew! Now there is lesson number 1 for me: Double check the sprue! I was struggling with a bit of paint spatter and clogging at first whilst I worked out the best air pressure. I can spray with a full size gun so I rather arrogantly decided I would be able to airbrush with no problems. So the spattering was lesson number 2: Learn some humility you big head! Got a better layer of primer down in the end that I was happy with.
  2. So this fella' arrived last night and I can't wait to get started on it soon! I haven't build a Bandai kit before but have followed and been inspired by the many great builds I've seen here. I had a couple of newbie questions that I was hoping fellow BM'ers could help me with... Should I glue the parts or is the push-fit process strong enough to keep it all together? Do I need to seal the factory paint-finish with Klear before I start weathering? Or is it ok to weather right on top of it? I've read about the plastic being fragile with/attacked by certain products - I mostly use acrylics and water-based so would I be ok with those? Any advice on a final finish for this guy - Matt, Satin or Gloss? Sorry for all the queries, thanks in advance! Cheers, Dermot
  3. Hi, everyone, I just want to share with you that I've got a pair of BALLS! Better late than never, these balls were completed almost one year ago, around the time I finished my Macross VF-11B. Enjoy my Balls! Primary colors are RLM78 Light Blue and RLM23 Red by Gunze Although not shown, Bandai provide two sets of 180mm long-range cannons and 120mm dual rapid-firing cannons, so both Balls can use same sets of weapons The base is not to scale; the Balls are 1/144 but the scale is 1/72, which I used with my previous VF-11B Cheers!
  4. Hi everyone I will try to share with you, the assembly of the speeder bike with scout trooper. I'm sorry, but my English is poor ... so I'll try to explain clearly I had already made the kit from AMT a few years ago, but the bandaï seems to me better proportioned, on the right scale. I pass quickly on the contents of the kit with a picture that summarizes all the parts of the box: The molding is very nice and the assembly could be done without glue, like the gundams It is on the scout trooper that there will be the hardest work. The only advantage (for me) of this mounting option is that you can mount and disassemble the miniature as you want ... easy for testing and mounting. The head will be disassembled to hide the mask before painting: Then I assembled the bust. The joints will make it possible to give a dynamic position to the figurine and which will be specific to each assembly The legs are then assembled on the bust, The knee protectors allow to hide the joints of the knees, but the ankles look like "toy". The arms are assembled, one hand on the handlebars and the other is in blaster shot position On the side of the speeder, I assembled the stabilizers, very well detailed, with a small line of joint that must disappear The speeder is fully assembled to give a definitive look to the figurine I will replace the plastic cover with a more realistic cover. For this I remove the fixing studs On the figurine side, the articulations are blocked with glue, then filled with milliput. They will be smoothed later with "Mister surfacer" The thrust flaps are modified to be in a semi-open position, and different from each side. See you soon, guys
  5. AndyRM101

    TIE Striker

    I pre-ordered this strait away after seeing the film, and it's just turned up today. I wasn't sure about the design when it was first revealed, but it's really grown on me, especially after seeing it in the movie (despite the fact that it wasn't really featured that prominently). Before I get any plastic cut, I'll show a quick run through of the box contents. Sprue A1 One solar panel, half the main body, the hatches and the two laser bolts (and the triumphant return of Mr Flatty, this time in TIE pilot disguise) Sprue A2 The other solar panel and the other half of the body, together with the clear parts (hard to see here, I know) and the seated pilot Sprue B The lower frames for the panels and the wing pivots Sprue C Upper frames, cockpit details and the front and back of the fuselage Sprue SWB-15 The last sprue's for the stand. No textured base this time. Just a plain square like the ones that come with the figures. I don't know why they didn't include the sand base that came with the TFA X-Wing, as that would have worked for Scarif. Hope it's not a sign of cost cutting by Bandai Fuselage details. Essentially the same as the regular TIE fighters Albeit with an extended body Nice details on the panel frames Open canopy frame if you don't want to use the clear part And the clear parts themselves Very nice ribbed detail on the solar panels The pilot looks nice. Maybe not up to the standard of some of the earlier ones, but well detailed all the same. Shame there's only one as this is a two man ship, but you probably wouldn't see much of the guy in the back anyway And of course the star of the kit... Usual Bandai stickers and decals On top of that there's the regular style instruction manual, and that's the lot. Everything looks excellent and there shouldn't be any issues with assembly. The most important thing for me with this kit is that they got the scale right, as the Striker is a lot larger than a regular TIE. The real one's meant to be just over 17m long and this scales out pretty much exactly to that. To give you some idea of the size, this is the wing frame next to a TIE Interceptor. The Interceptor in this case is the Finemolds version, which is a little underscale, but it gives you a rough idea One last thing I'll point out, not really pertaining to the kit itself. I ordered this from Tokyo Model Detective, and it's the first time I've used that store. Anyone else that's ordered from there will know they don't have a shipping calculator on the webstore. You have to pay for the kit up front, then wait for a second invoice to be sent showing the shipping cost. It's only then that you know how much the kit will cost in total. I paid around £16 for the kit and, since these are going for about £25 inc. delivery on ebay, I was hoping the shipping would be no more than £7-8. I was somewhat surprised then, when the invoice came through, and it was £14, meaning I've had to pay around £30 in total. That's maybe not a big deal for some but, until the TMD site shows the full price inc. shipping, I'll be sticking with ebay and amazon. I'll get the build underway soon. Andy
  6. Hello all, This is a recent completion for the UK Gunpla Modellers FB group 'scratch/mod' build off which ran from November 2016 until this week. With the aim of the GB being that all entries had to modified in some way, be that a custom paint job, scratch building, new panel lines etc. As per, despite having all that time I did the majority of the work in the last week or so in sessions snatched between completing assignments for my degree course and job hunting. Hence why it's a bit on the sloppy side. Still, I finished something for a GB and that shouldn't be taken likely, considering my previous form. The base kit is Bandai's aging HGUC Zaku II from 2002 I believe, which is pretty low on detail but would make an ideal first kit for a younger or more inexperienced modeller. Those with more experience are probably likely to find it pretty lacking. Though if you're good at that sort of thing (which I'm not) I'm sure it would make a great blank canvas for detailing up. Due to my aforementioned time keeping issues I decided to go for the 'clean' look which I've not done before. I was wanting it to be more weathered (especially to hide where I'd failed at even the most elementary modelling techniques like removing seam lines....) but ran out of time. In Brief the mods I added to the kit were as follows: HGUC Zaku II (2002) RED 12 Mods: -new panel lines on the torso, front and back skirts and feet... -monoeye and bazooka range finder both replaced with polished perspex rod. -ribbing added to Zaku shield and right shoulder -builders parts hands added -backpack replaced with a modified version of the Gelgoog Jäger backpack -left shoulder modified to shorten spikes -stupid giraffe neck shortened -'Red 12' colour scheme. Paints used: -Stynylrez primer, Tamiya, AK Xtreme Metals, Vallejo Model Air, Microscale Industries gloss and matt varnishes and Ammo panel washes. Decals: -Revell, Academy, Bandai and some rather rubbish third party Chinese ones. I had a real struggle with the Bandai and knock off decals, the Bandai ones had yellowed pretty badly and were on pretty thick film and despite my best efforts silvered pretty badly in some places (though my being in a rush probably didn't help) the third party ones were on nice thin decal film but there was often too much of it meaning that there was a lot of careful trimming required, they also weren't that clearly printed and didn't respond at all to Microset/sol. Toodles, Paul
  7. After 3 plane model, i missed my gundam kits And started to this handsome I will try first time reverse wash process, i hope i can handle it.
  8. Hi there, As i see that i am not the only Star Wars fan here (there is a good bunch of pretty Star Wars kits builds here), this is some pictures of my C3-PO and R2D2 WIP C3-Po was very easy to build R2D2's colors was not very nice in my humble opinion. The blue parts and the aluminium parts didn't pleased me so i decided to paint them. So I sprayed a coat of white on the white parts, and a coat of Tam X4 blue on the blue parts. Then i coated the grey parts with a layer of Alclaad black primer After a couple of days i started to spray some Alclaad aluminium layers on the black parts I've been very pleased by the alclaad render - it was the first time i used this product. The metalic render is very good. The only problem was that the R2D2's head is made from two half domes that don't fit very well... I used some Klir + talc powder to seal the gap between the two parts : The R2D2 main body is very great looking too (as the R5D4 provided with R2D2) The following steps of the build was very easy too This is the Two Droïds at this time : And here they are included in a Star Wars back ground I'm thinking to add some weathering on R2D2 (water+ liquid soap + pastel powders) but i'm affraid to try a weathering on C3-PO because don't know what to use on that shinny gold and chrome plastics to keep them shinny and also because i read that some plastics used by Bandai don't like certain solvents and i no longer remember which ones. Any advices please, some body ? Thanks by advance Have a nice day !
  9. Kuat Systems Engineering Firespray-31-class patrol and attack craft Slave I Bandai Slave I (1/144 scale); completed in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, MIG enamels, and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. The stand and the Star Wars decal are from the Fine Molds version of this model and the mythosaur skull was made with my Cameo cutting machine. All and all, I think this kit turned out great. I was pretty nervous about starting it because the paint job is pretty complex, but once I got in the thick of it I was okay. It could probably stand to use some more weathering and I'll probably do some before I take it to the model club meeting next month, but for now I'm calling it done. The work in progress log can be found here. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  10. I've been longing to build a model of one of the coolest Star Wars ships of all time, Boba Fett's Slave I. Like all Bandai kits, this 1/144 scale version of his iconic ship comes premolded in various colors but unlike most Bandai Star Wars kits, this one has to be painted if you want to accurately represent the ship. Having the parts organized by color makes painting it pretty easy given how complex the rear of the ship is. I removed and cleaned all of the parts from the sprue and organized them by what color they were to be painted. After I got all of the rear pieces organized, I started painting the cockpit. Most sources show that the cockpit should be army green but I much prefer grey, which was Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) in this case. I highlighted a few bits with some Vallejo light grey and silver and gave everything a wash with MIG Dark Wash (enamel). The front console was painted with Tamiya Deep Green (XF-26), I applied some liquid mask with a sponge and then gave it a coat of NATO Black (XF-69). The bottom dark grey layer of the rear was painted with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) and given a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel. The engine nozzles were undercoated with Tamiya Buff (XF-57), had some liquid mask applied with a sponge, and then given a coat of coppery brown mixed with a few Vallejo reds and browns. I preshaded the green bits with Tamiya Flat Black (XF-1) and gave them a coat of Tamiya Field Green (XF-65) followed by a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel as the first pass of weathering. The grey parts were preshaded with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), and given a wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. I also applied a few of the small decals on the grey parts. I love how layers of parts are stacked on top of each other to make a complex surface. There is even parts that can't really be seen unless you hold it just so; it really is quite impressive. After all of the pieces are in place, more weathering will be added to dirty everything up, mainly chipping on the raised areas, more enamel washes, and possibly some pigments. The stabilizers were painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), the yellow markings/chips were painted with a mix of Flat Yellow (XF-3) and Yellow Green (XF-4), the red strip was painted with a mix of Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9), and the entire assembly was given a pin wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. After everything dries, they'll get a coat of matte varnish and then more weathering. Moving on the the front "skirt," I started with the base coat of pale green. According to the painting guide supplied with the Fine Molds version of this kit, the "correct" color is supposed to be Tamiya J.A. Grey (XF-14). This was a little too green for my taste, I mixed in some Tamiya Medium Grey (XF-20) and Flat White (XF-2) in a ratio of 3:2:2 to get this wonderful pale green. Also, I took this photo while experimenting with a new 50mm lens I bought for my Nikon. I would like to take all of my work in progress shots like this but it's much easier to grab my iPhone and snap a few quick pictures. After giving the skirt a nice coat of chipping fluid, I sprayed on the redish brown. All and all, I'm not entirely happy with it. I decided to use chipping fluid instead of liquid mask applied with a sponge. It's not bad, it's just not the finish I was aiming for. I guess it will be cool because the chipping on the skirt is going to be different than the hull, where I will be using liquid mask. The colors I used were Hull Red (XF-9) and Buff (XF-57) for the red, Pink (X-17) for the chipping, German Grey (XF-63) over Medium Grey (XF-20) for the grey panels, and Vallejo Model Air Tank Brown (71.041) for the brown panel. After this picture was taken, I managed to get a panel line wash on with MIG Dark Wash enamel. Once that is sealed in with some matte varnish, I'll move on to more weathering.
  11. Hi guys Thanks to Mike's amazing Infiltrator build up recently, I went out ant bought the Revell Easy kit and also a Bandai TIE Interceptor kit. Taking the things I liked from both ships to make my own alternative Star Wars ship - in this case the obvious name for it being the Sith Interceptor. I went with metallics for a color choice because I think they look good. It was Alclad, Tamiya and Gunze as thew choice of paint. Some scratch building on the wings, gun barrels and mechanics went on as well - nothing too fancy I even made a clear cast of the engines in case I was going to light it: And here it is: That's enough pictures I think but as always, thanks for looking Si
  12. So Just after Christmas this landed on my desk at work, a colleague as said he had just bought the Chogokin version of this so he would never build it so I could have it. How very cool is that! So any way I have never build one of these before and have never built and transforming plastic kits so I was very interested it what it would be like. I know I must have at least 3 or 4 WIP on the go at the moment but I have put them all to one side for now and I started to snap fit the VF-31J together. All the parts go together great as you would expect from Bandai but i already have concerns about parts falling off. We will see how it feels when its completed, it might be a little more stable then. There are a few seam lines that will need filling on the nose but thats to be expected. There are some very nice details on the inner frame parts and the outer shell, lots of panel lines. I will be doing a custom paint job on this and at the moment I really like the idea of painting it in the same colours and pattern as a German WW2 BF109E. I wanted to uses blocked camno pattern from BF109 , like the first picture with the yellow nose but I just can not get it to look right on the shape of the VF-31, so I might go with the full mottled patern like second picture.
  13. Kit manufacture: Bandai Scale: 1/72 Type: TIE/FO First Order Tie Fighter Extras used: None. Paints and colours used: Stynylrez Primer, Tamiya Rubber Black, German Grey, Sand Yellow, Vallejo Model Color paints for hand painting, Vallejo Metal Color Aluminium, Flory Black and Sand wash, Tamiya Matt coat. Water mixable oil paints for dry brushing. Other info: Full build is here : http://florymodels.websitetoolbox.com/post/172-bandai-first-order-tie-fighter-8329956?trail=15 Hi all! First finish of the year and January isn't even in double figures yet! Actually, I was doing this on a group build on some other forums, and missed the end of year deadline... oops! Anyway, she's done now, see what you think The kit is brilliant. Amazing. Stunning. Mind blowing. I made the original Tie fighter, which is also basically perfect, and they've actually improved this slightly. I didn't do too much to this to be honest, I tried to keep it simple. I went for Rubber Black so the black isn't too strong, and dry brushed with water mixable oils to bring the detail out a bit. The base is just neat Tamiya Sand Yellow airbrused on from quite a distance and washed, then lightly drybrushed. So here are the pics: And that's about it! Thanks for looking, Val
  14. Hello all, like my SD this model is already up on another part of the site, but I thought I'd show it off here anyway. The model as started several years ago, but I only completed it just before Christmas with little jobs like the monoeye, decals and the shoulder pad. Paints were a mix of Vallejo, AK and Tamiya. I enjoyed the cute little blighter and will be looking for more in this line. Toodles, Paul
  15. Hello all, This is my recently (ish, before Crimbo anyway) completed SD from Bandai. I've already chucked it up in my little Yearbook thing, but not everyone looks there and I do so love attention... Anyway, the model was undercoated in black then a mottled grey-white was built up with heavily thinned Tamiya flat white thinned with the God King of thinners, MLT. This was then finished off with a Neutral Grey enamel wash. Toodles, Paul
  16. Hi all, Not been doing too much lately and my office was too much of a mess to paint in so what I have been doing has had to be sofa-compatible. To that end I cleaned up and partially assembled Bandai's Cosmo Falcon and Cosmo Zero from Space Battleship Yamato 2199. These are very nice kits with very accurate fit and the usual sharp details and deep panel lines. I've been reading the 2199 Mooks (I have a couple from the defunct Dengeki Hobby and one from Hobby Japan) which suggest a different approach to assembly - because all the parts interlock in 3D it's hard to build sub assemblies although the fit is usually good enough to allow it. That means doing seam work and painting on the whole model and not being able to take advantage of the parts broken down by colour. But if you look at which pins prevent movement on which axis, you can chop them down and build the model in a much more helpful way. E.g. the front end of my Cosmo Zero is separate to the back end now, so I can deal with all the metallics and not have to mask (along panel lines, which is harder than across them when they're deep) the edges. However I haven't taken any pictures of that yet, so here are the cockpits: instrument panels and pilots: This all seemed very fiddly to paint, I'm not sure if they're a bit underscale (because the sidewalls and fuselage etc. are quite thick) or it's just post-Christmas cack-handedness. I didn't use washes for the male pilot which I thought I liked better in person, but after varnishing and photographing I think the female pilot looks better so I might go back and add some lining or an overall black wash to him as well to tidy things up. I need to do some work on my black primer ready for metallics, and then I can hopefully show what I've done to the other bits and how they go together. Cheers, Will
  17. TIE Interceptor 181st Imperial Fighter Wing | Bandai 1/72 I did this kit as a nice sendoff build before I went on vacation for the week between Christmas and the New Year. It's painted as the personal TIE Interceptor of Commander of the 181st Imperial Fighter Wing, Soontir Fel. The red "bloodstripes" signify ten combat kills, something nearly every member of the elite 181st bore on their Interceptors. Since Soontir Fel is one of the greatest pilots in the Galaxy, his personal fighter has seen lots of action against the Rebellion (and New Republic), so I decided to give it a little bit of weathering. I painted the entire ship with Alclad metallics and used some liquid mask for chipping before giving the entire model a coat in a custom blue-grey I mixed up with a couple Tamiya paints. The wing panels were painted with a mix of Vallejo Model Air Black and Arctic Blue (metallic) to give them an iridescent shimmer. The red strip is just Tamiya Flat Red weathered in the same manner as the hull of the ship. The rest of the weathering was done with MIG Productions enamels. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  18. The Chief Smeg

    Bandai BB8

    Had a look at my built but not competed BB8 today. I've started to add a pin wash but the little fella is so shiny that it's having trouble sticking so a rethink is required. I ended up thinning my paint and adding a drying inhibitor and then painting it on and carefully wiping it off, this seemed to fill some of the panel lines but not all; I also need to add 2 water slide decals that I simply could not hand paint. I also have no idea yet how I'm going to display him so I'm afraid BB8 is going into storage until I can decide that.
  19. The Chief Smeg

    Bandai R2D2

    Well folks here he is, finished at last. Some of you have read the WIP thread for this little fella which chronicled not my build, but the process of learning how to paint and weather a kit; this being my first build following a break of 35 years and realistically the first I have truly painted. The WIP thread can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235011076-bandai-r2d2-and-bb8-newbie-wip/ Ultimately R2 is destined to be a bookend, but until I sort that part out, here is my finish painted model: A big thank you to Rockpopandchips, AndyRM101 and Oileanach for their technical help when it all went "Pete tong", but thanks to everyone else who watched and commented on my WIP with words of encouragement. I'm going to detail paint BB8 next and see if I can get away without using any of the transfers or stickers as I did with R2. thanks for looking, smeggy
  20. Just finished bandai 1/48 AT-ST. (Just needs a touch up here and there but otherwise done) What a great kit! Goes together like lego - no glue required. No fit issues of any sort. Painted with Tamiya Acrylics and wethered with Vallejo Washes - did not want to use my usual oils as Bandai plastics prone to cracking. Finished base with a pva glue and sprinkle of railway modellers grass and stones. Please excuse my amateur hour photography. Hope you like it!
  21. BTL-A4 Y-wing Bandai 1/144 scale Bandai "Vehicle Model" Y-wing (1/144 scale); completed in Tamiya & Vallejo acrylics, Mr Color lacquers, and Mig Productions enamels. This is was a fun little weekend project! I started it late Sunday morning and finished it up Monday morning. I painted it as Dex Tiree's Gold 2 who was famously shot down by Darth Vader during the Battle of Yavin (I had no intention to copy you, Andy!). Truth be told, it could probably stand to have a little more weathering, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, especially for something I started on Sunday around lunchtime and finished up Monday morning. I still can't get over the detail on this kit; for something that fits in the palm of my hand, it's absurd! Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  22. my first 1/72 scale build experience...
  23. Bandai's new 1/144 Y-Wing from their Vehicle Model range. There's not much I can say that hasn't been said a thousand times before regarding Bandai's Star Wars kits. They are the best out there by a long way, and this one is as good as the rest, with details that are almost as good as the 1/72 version. This one's painted roughly in the colours of Gold 2 although the droid's not entirely correct. The wip can be found here And for size reference, it's almost exactly the same length as the Star Destroyer from the same range; about 11cm nose to tail And, somewhat unsurprisingly, it's about half the length of a 1/72 Y-Wing (Finemolds version in this case) Thanks for looking Andy
  24. After th Pg Zaku, i started my first 1/72 scale model kit. Bandai X wing. This is the box and parts some parts are realy tiny first i started the assembly all parts. After that process i will be start the priming. but i realized when i assembly the all parts than i cant paint or prime everything Thats why i seperate some parts again...
  25. I got some primer on the Gonk earlier today and, while I was waiting for that to dry, I thought I'd have a look at getting some of this together All these Badai box scale releases are pretty simple, with very low parts count (and very low prices too), but the detail they've managed to squeeze into the box is pretty spectacular. I posted some sprue shots a while ago, which can be seen here. You could easily just snap this together in 10 minutes and have a great looking model, but I've decided to refine some of the details a bit, starting with the two main guns. the two cannon barrels come moulded to the lower cockpit section. They're not hollow so you'd need to drill them out (if you're bothered about that kind of thing). I hate drilling out barrels, as I always get them off centre, so I made more work for myself than was strictly necessary by rebuilding them from brass tube Before After The front section is 0.6mm Albion Alloys micro tube into .8mm then 1mm, which then goes into some thicker stuff from Trumpeter. I just cut two slots into the bulkhead section, and stuck them in. With that done, the top half of the cockpit was added. I'll be leaving the canopy off for painting The other bits I've replaced are the two U-shaped bars at the back of the main fuselage. They come moulded as part of the side panels, and look a little chunky, so I cut them off and replaced them with copper wire After that the fuselage fell together. It's essentially just a top and bottom section with 4 sidewall pieces that clip into place but, despite the simplicity, it makes a very intricate layered structure The level of detail on these parts really is amazing. For scale reference the wire I added at the back is 0.5mm thick The cockpit is a very snug push-fit onto the fuselage, but I'll leave it separate for painting Andy