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  1. And so now the final photos of my falcon. Don’t be surprised by the bolder colors, as this time I used my new cell phone, which has an excellent Leica camera. So that’s it, a good year of fun in the Star Wars universe. Now I’m looking forward to my next project with a real ship. Of course again in this theater.
  2. Hello everyone. Since I’m not only a friend of warships but also a Star Wars fan from the very beginning. And when Bandai released this amazing Millennium Falcon model, I was blown away. This project will depict the famous falcon from Star Wars in a diorama. He should fly through a halved tube. This is based on some film scenes, where he flies through the interior of the not yet finished Death Star, for example. I’m really looking forward to the project because I’m going to build a ship that doesn’t plow through water but through space. And these are the ingredients. Bandai really went all out here. There has never been such an accurate and detailed model of the falcon. But as always, there is room for improvement Greenstrawberry offers some good etched part sets for science fiction. The Bandai figures in the kit are actually okay. Their drawback is that they are completely rigid. The company Falcon 3D Parts from the USA has four good sets for this. I took this one because I think Luke's pose is great. “It’s not a moon.” They also offer much better electronics. More on this later in the construction report. Since I started this kit at the beginning of the year, it's starting again in fast motion. First, the Mandibles. Everything in the kit fits really well. Here is the first time I had to putty. It’s amazing the level of detail Bandai has created here. Everything very delicate. With my 3D printer I created this black, inconspicuous part in the middle of the Falkon. This will be the later holder for the threaded rod that holds the model on the diorama. Well hidden in the lower weapon bay. Continue with the bottom side of the falcon. All gaps are excellently covered on the ramps. The lower part of the falcon is finished and looks very good. After priming and pre-shading, the first base coat is on. I chose Vallejo White Gray. Pure white would have been too cold for me. The first three panels are painted red. It was quite complicated because I hadn’t thought about installing the flap control later. Plate after plate it goes forward. A lot of masking work is required. The decals are still attached, and let’s start with the panel lining. A filter of khaki, blue, gray and green is now applied to the lower half. The wash consists of brown and dark gray. And secure with clear coat. Back to the mandies. They too have received a wash. The chipping and fading are still missing. Let's install it. Ok, having fun with chipping. I can experiment on the underside without fear of messing up the model. You don’t see much of that in the Dio anyway. But first a fundamental consideration from me. In chipping the falcon, I leave the template of the original for two reasons. First of all the color of the chipping spots. The different colored plates are supposed to give the impression in the film that Han and Chewi are repairing the falcon with all sorts of spare parts that they got from a junkyard. For example with a plate of a red or dark gray painted YT freighter. So far so good. However, if paint were to flake off the red replacement part, the original color of the falcon should not appear underneath, but rather the primer of the spaceship from which this plate originally came. Also, all the other panels painted in the original color of the falcon seem to have almost no scratch marks at all. So when are all the plates on gammelt? The next reason is that the chippings taken from the film and adopted by Bandai in the decals are way too coarse for this scale in my opinion. That fits more in 1:35. So I reinterpret my falcons and this is the first result. Although I still don’t know if I’m really satisfied. Lets go..... And then on to fading. On the underside the dirt runs inwards towards the middle, so think again. I use it very sparingly as it often quickly becomes too much. Let’s finish the subpage. The last streaks of dirt were still missing and I refined the chipping a little. This completes the underside of the falcon for now.
  3. This was a quick build meant as a gift for a close friend. Also, it was my first venture into figure modeling, so way out of my comfort zone! The Bandai kit is press/snap together, fully articulated, and molded in various colors of plastic. I chose to paint my build using various shades of acrylics, weathered with pastels and enamel washes. Paint chipping from battle damage done with the 'hairspray' technique. My only real complaint about the kit (other than the lame 'fabric' provided) is that stickers are used for the markings, instead of waterslide decals. Please excuse my poor photography!
  4. Hi all Tossed the coin over whether this belongs in the SF or diorama section but as I haven't posted in here before SF won. I made a very small Helms Deep and really enjoyed it, so continuing on the small scale I picked up the 1/350 Bandai Millennium Falcon at Telford and have set about making a suitable base for it! It kind of had to be Docking Bay 94. Apologies but no progress shots on the kit, it doesn't come with either the ramp of landing gear. I decided to leave the ramp but scratched some simple legs. Onto the docking bay. The base was made from foam with two layers of cork walls with spacers to allow for the storage bays. Next step was covering the whole thing in wood filler and give it a good sand. Then i've started to add the details before the roof goes on. My plan is to have a cut away section to look in the hanger but have the full circle of the 'roof'. I started adding bits of greebles and plasticard, lead wires old PE etc. and its starting to look like a docking bay! I haven't looked too closely at the film pics for the wall details, I'm more just going with the flow and having some fun. That's it for now! Just going to be working my way around the walls and storage bays.
  5. Hello every one, started this one as a weekend (actually one of the Fri night) project. The build is standard Bandai quality, everything fit together. Just clean all the gate, and here you go. And then, after another few weeks, I was thinking, why don't I add a bit of color and make it nicer ? Hence here it is. Thanks for reading Ernest
  6. As the X20 is finished and just awaiting some brighter weather to photograph, I reckon I just about have time to build this one. The kit is one of a number produced by Bandai in 1/72nd of Star Wars craft. They can be built as snap together with no or minimal painting, or as traditional kits. Both self-adhesive and waterslide transfers are provided with options for Luke Skywalker's Red 5 or an X wing from a later film. The kit is very well moulded and well detailed. Of course, the film models details were courtesy of a variety of kits from the seventies. I trust the force will be strong with me on this one.
  7. Hello Dears !! Just let me know if I'm in the right place for such a build !! I spent my week End at a Made in Asia convention with the kids !! it's not the first time, but I always wonder about these kits !! And yesterday, I jumped in the game and bought one !! I suppose that you both know these beastie, I mean the kit, not the kids !! But I did'nt know, I even did'nt know if there are rules in it or paint scheme or so ! Here are the sprues !! I will just have fun and try it !! What is for sure is these kits are damn good !! In no time, I've got this !! Tomorrow putty and sanding !! But sincerely putty is barely necessary !! Stunning !! Have a great modelling time ! Sincerely. CC
  8. TIE Interceptor (01212) 1:72 Carrera Revell The TIE Interceptor was introduced as a sister ship to the general-purpose TIE Interceptor, to add a little variation to the chase and battle scenes of the Star Wars saga. It has cranked "wings" like Vader's TIE Fighter, and a long tapering forward wing section that mounts some large cannons. It looks like it's speeding when standing still, which gives the impression of its function. The type first saw use in the Battle of Endor during the historical documentary Return of the Jedi, where its sleek lines differentiated it from its more pedestrian sibling. Its four wingtip mounted forward-facing cannons gave it more concentrated firepower, and the space between the blade-like forward panels gave the pilot a better view of his surroundings. It eschews shields and hyperspace capability to squeeze more speed out of its twin ion engines, which are also equipped with an autothruster to further enhance performance, which is why they are usually allotted to elite squadrons of experienced pilots. The Kit This is a reboxing by Carrera Revell of the Bandai kit, at least partly because the worldwide rights to making and marketing models of Star Wars subjects has been divided between them geographically, so Revell are being sensible and licensing the excellent kits from Bandai, who cut their teeth on Gundam kits of amazing complexity and detail, including co-moulding in various colours and plastic types on the same sprue, as well as being able to create detail that is almost beyond belief at small scales. The kit arrives in the same black Star Wars themed box as its Bandai equivalent, adding Revell product details and code on the sides by way of a sticker that blends with the box very well. Inside the box are four sprues in grey styrene, one in black, one in a lighter grey, a clear sprue, a transparent fluorescent yellow sprue, decal sheet, sticker sheet, and instruction booklet, which is pure Bandai as I happen to have an original release on my shelves. As already mentioned, the detail is exceptional for the scale, and the model can be built without glue or paint if you wish, having push-fit turrets and pegs, plus a stand with a small slice of the Death Star moulded into it, a pair of blaster cannon beams, and a detailed crew figure of what is my absolute favourite Star Wars uniform, the TIE Pilot from the original series. There is also a weird flat manakin figure on a small stand that is possibly there to give the model scale, although most people would probably have preferred a standing pilot for use in a diorama or vignette. Construction begins with the pilot, who has a pair of Imperial decals on his helmet, and is then glued (we’ll say that, even if you choose not to glue your model) to the seat back, and then the floor, which has the seat base and cushion moulded-in. A console and twin control grips are then fixed into holes in the floor, and you are advised to ensure that the pilot faces forward by a scrap diagram nearby. OK then? The upper interior surface of the cockpit rear is covered with several triangular decals that depict the flashing lights in the background of cockpit shots in the movies. The cockpit floor and pilot are inserted into the rear (facing front, remember!), and the ‘pit is enclosed by fitting the front wall after adding a few more decals that may be seen if you look in through the top hatch. A lower insert is clipped to the bottom of the newly minted assembly, taking care to orient it so the twin pins face the rear, as shown by the stylised “ that point out various features through the build. The cockpit assembly is quickly shrouded by the two hull halves, which have the ball structure and the mounts for the wings moulded-in, adding the clear top hatch and signature faceted windscreen part, both of which have decals or stickers to replicate the painted frames for those that don’t want to paint their model. Two little inserts are placed on the top supports, then the underside has a central cover fitted, plus a pair of cannon barrels, and a small part in the centre of the cover, making sure to align them correctly with the help of a scrap diagram that yells “CHECK!”. It’s a bit condescending, but the consequences of putting some of the parts in the wrong way around can be more annoying, so it’s worth paying attention. You have been WARNED! The cranked and elongated solar wings are started with the framework, to which a small black panel with a pair of holes is fitted, before the two large tapered panels are clipped onto the frame, and surrounded by the grey frames, which is a task that is done twice in mirror image, adding the cannons to the forward tips, and another pair of barrel-like protuberances on a carrier are fixed at the front of the cut-out in the centre. The hull is then mated with the wings to finish the basic model build, unless you wish to show your TIE Interceptor in a firing pose. This involves inserting a pair of adapters to the barrels of the cannons, then fixing the clear luminous yellow/green tapered “bolts” into the hole, although there are only two supplied, so you can’t depict a full salvo unless you buy two kits and use them all on one. There is a styrene stand included in most Star Wars kits from Bandai, which consists of a long arm that plugs into a section of boxy detail that resembles the surface of the Death Star. A two-part joint fits to the top of the support that allows movement of your model in all directions, which is slotted into the exhaust exit by using another adaptor part that has a hole in the bottom to accept the peg at the top of the universal joint. There is also a clip included on the sprue that permits you to link several bases together at any of the four sides, which all have corresponding recesses moulded into them. This clip-together facility extends to their figure kits too, although you’d have to be sure there is enough space between them so it doesn’t look too crowded. Markings There is one set of markings for your Interceptor, which is a generic scheme that can be applied to any model, and the markings are supplied as both decals and stickers. Decals Stickers The decals are quite leathery from experience, so make sure you have plenty of strong decal softening solution ready. It may be that you replace some of the decals with paint if you feel that would be easier or more accurate. Conclusion The detail present on this kit is excellent, and being able to build it without glue should appeal to a wider audience, as will the option of stickers, which seem to have been aimed toward kids or absolute novice builders. The design of the ship is appealing, and as landing gear was a sore-point with TIE fighters of all sorts until relatively recently, the stand is a useful addition, as well as taking up less cabinet space. Very highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  9. A bit of the background story to this kit. The year was late 1979, and I had barely started it when I was told that we were going to have to move for work reasons. That started 5 house moves in as many years and somewhere along the line, I thought that this kit had been lost, and I forgot all about it. Then, last Christmas I was in the attic sorting out the decorations when I came across a box that originally contained apples. Underneath a lot of old tat was my Fiat X1/9 -seeing the light of day for the first time in 42 years! I guess it deserves to be bumped up the build queue. Dave
  10. I couldn't wait until I'd finished the Viggen before I started this one, so I cut parts from the sprue last night. I haven't seen one of these on here so here the obligatory sprue shots. Lots of plastic in the box. A tiny Cewbacca Cockpit painted up.
  11. I've been working on a ZM 109 and it's been a bit of a challenging build to do. It's not quite done yet but I decided I needed something that will just go together without much thought. I picked up the original release of the Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon when it first came out and haven't done anything with it. Mostly the paint job I felt would be a tough one. Recently my LHS got me to try the new Aqueous Mr Surfacer 1000 for a primer. It's practically odourless and easy to use so with that and my desire for a straightforward build the Falcon is hitting the bench. It's a big one alright. With the ZM 109 for a size comparison. AM will be an absolute minimum if any at all.
  12. Hello again. This is my AT-AT from Bandai in 1/144 scale. A very nice kit to build, all parts fit together almost perfectly. Painted with Mr. Color paints C62, C307 and C308 shades. Weathered was done with Tamiya panel liner and light gray oil paint. Hope you like it. Cheers, Franz Galli
  13. Hello all, I have just completed this kit. A very easy build with some minor fixes only. Movability isn't ideal due to the heavy armour, joints are solid without using PC parts. You can find the WIP here :
  14. Well, after watching Andy's build with great interest, my kit finally made it to the bottom of the world! (Adelaide, South Australia). What I wasn't prepared for however was just how good a kit this one really is! I must say, hats off to the engineering department at Bandai for I have never built a model quite like this one, and I've been modelling for 41 years. The quality of plastic is first rate. Not too soft, not too hard. Very easy to work with. The parts breakdown is VERY cleaver and fits together without glue very well. I'm one of those fussy modellers that has to have everything perfect (which is probably why I finish so few models) So I was very surprised at just how quickly I was getting the parts off the sprues, cleaned up and ready. Here's where I was at after an hour and a half. All parts were lightly glued with Tamiya extra thin cement. Building this kit is so hassle free that I keep thinking I'm doing something wrong! About three hours into the build I'd gotten the head all off the sprues, cleaned up and dry fitted/pushed together. Next it was time to pull the head apart and tackle those seats. First, remove the locating slots for the pilots...... Then clean up the area.............. And make some seat cushions from plastic card. Job done in about 15 minutes. The only issue I've come across so far is a very slight gap at the front of the head. So here is where I'm at three and a half hours into the build. I'm very impressed with how things are going. For anybody who is suffering from, or has suffered from AMS (advanced modellers syndrome) this is the model for you! Next it is time to prime and paint the cockpit and mid section and try and decide on a camouflage scheme for it. At the moment I have 20 different schemes drawn up with more on the way! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978670-star-wars-at-st-camouflage-schemes/ Cheers Richard.
  15. Here’s my attempt to make a Bandai Hobby 1/12 figure into less of a toy and more of a display figure. The Bandai kits are excellent; I wanted to create a figure that looked more realistic. The OOB figure - the plastic is self coloured and makes a passable figure. I started by dismantling the pre-built figure and using polystyrene cement during reassembly, filling the moveable joints with modelling putty and green milliput. I airbrushed the various armour parts with Vallejo light green. Boba’s helmet is one of his most distinctive features and I started detailing this as I went along. I used images from the web to make sure the painted chips and scratches were accurate.
  16. Something I've been playing with over the last couple of days. A poster to show the relative size and scale of some of the 1/72 Star Wars models out there. This is very much incomplete, as it only covers the ones I've built. I'll add further Bandai ones to it as and when I build them, but it's unlikely I'll be adding any more Finemolds subjects (regular TIE, Naboo Starfighter, Falcon etc.) as they're obviously going to be hard to get hold of. If you can't read the small text, you can see the full size version here. The full size dimensions are based on the upscaled dimensions of the models, assuming that they are 1/72 ( which, in the case of the Finemolds kits, many aren't). The photos are accurately scaled, so this is how big the models are in relation to each other. There are various listed dimensions for the "real" versions of these ships, so non of them could conclusively be called wrong, but some are certainly more out than others. One of the worse ones in regard to scale accuracy is Vader's TIE from Finemolds. There's more than one quoted size for the real one, depending on what source you use, but starwars.com and the incredible cross-sections book both list the length as 9.2m, which seems reasonable (around the length of a Spitfire). Based on that length, the Finemolds kit actually scales out at 1/123. Anyway, I've done the poster for anyone interested in seeing how these kits scale up next to each other. I've got the Bandai X and Y Wings to build (and the upcoming A-Wing) and I'll rework the poster to include them. Note: I didn't add my Snowspeeder as it's 1/48, but I could scale it to match the others, so I could add that one too. Andy
  17. I'm using the Bandau decals on their Boba Fett figure, yes I know they are not great but I'm trying to make it a quick and easy build. Does anything soften them enough to conform to compound curves? The cheek panels on the helmet are particularly troublesome. I've tried Micro Sol/Set, Mr Decal Softener and Tamiya MarkFit without any effect. The latter two I bought specifically for Japanese kit decals though neither has ever seemed to have done much.
  18. Put the finishing touches to the AT-AT today, as usual with a Bandai kit it built up very well very quickly. Made it quite dark and dirty by pre-shading with black and white before using XF80 as a blend coat. Painted with Tamiya acrylics, weathered with Flory Dark Dirt wash with some oil paint streaks. Made a base as an experiment, RFI below.
  19. After completing Bandai's X and B wings along with Darth Vadar's Tie Fighter I wanted to do more of their excellent kits and the AT-AT was ideal choice and its poseable as well. I haven't seen any builds on here so here's the sprues. x2 of D sprue. Completed the head in 20 or so minutes, it has a detailed interior but nothing can be seen now its together. Onto the legs next.
  20. Bandai's 1/72 B-Wing completed in a small variation of the ILM studio model paint scheme. Much like my A-Wing, I wanted this one to be unique while still looking like something that could have taken part in the Battle of Endor at the end of Return of the Jedi rather than painstakingly try to replicate the studio model. I took a different approach to building this as I had previously completed several Bandai Star Wars kits and expected excellent quality parts fit, which turned out correct with a couple of exceptions - I prepainted the main colours and most of the markings on the sprues and then assembled it. I also used a different painting technique. I primed using Mr. Surfacer White 1500, then washed using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Grey enamel wash, finally a couple of very thin coats of diluted Tamiya acrylic XF-2 Flat White. The teal colored sections went through a similar process, masked off, primed using Mr. Surfacer Grey 1500, washed using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Dark Grey enamel wash, a couple of thin coats of Mr. Hobby RLM 78 Light Blue. I did not like the yellowish squadron marking decals so I used them as templates to cut out masks and painted them using a custom 3:1 mix of Model Master acrylic International Orange and Cadmium Yellow. I decided to add two diagonal stripes on the bottom wing section as the individual marking of "my" B-Wing. The cockpit interior was painted using AGAMA Medium Grey and Dark Grey acrylics, drybrushed with light grey and washed with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Dark Grey. I then picked off individual displays and knobs with white base, followed by transparent red, yellow and green. Sadly, I wasn't able to get good photos to showcase it. As befits a Star Wars build, I added a lot of paint chipping, although I tried to keep it more subdued than on my X-Wings as the B-Wing entered combat after the "dark days" of the early Rebellion when any flying piece of junk was used.. Unlike my typical build, this one was spared of any mishaps and misfortunes so not really that much to talk about. The greatest challenge for me was the sheer size of this, as I hadn't painted a large model in a long while. Overall, another excellent Bandai model that was very fun to assemble. As usual, please excuse the poor quality of the photos - the teal tint is due to the artificial lighting I had to use to compensate for the lack of natural sunlight in my home.
  21. Bit of a different one. Built this up as a Christmas present for my brother. Initially considered the newer Revell kit, but it wasn't available at the time, was a lot bigger for space requirements, and didn't have the same degree of detail. The Bandai offering was more manageable size wise and detailed, but had the problem of exposed ball joints. Had to bite the bullet and try my best at filling all those exposed areas after getting him into the pose I wanted. Surprisingly, went much smoother than anticipated. The figure isn't a hundred percent accurate for the series with all of those weapons handy, considering the right leg armour plate isn't the one worn when the spear is acquired and Bandai oddly didn't include two variants. Painted up with a variety of colours, largely taking reference from screenshots over the instructions. Armour was dusted with Mig Gun Metal pigment and buffed up. The base is two bits of insulation foam with rough cuts, stuck to the display case bottom, and coated in a layer of asphalt texture paste, which was then painted with a black/brown/purple mix to give it a cooled lava appearance. Overall, happy with the outcome Thanks for taking a look Gaz
  22. It only took a few days of construction and painting to have a cheeky little table decoration. Bandai boxed the Death Star II with a Star Destroyer, originally I wanted to build the warship, but the superweapon got me. It can be put together in just half an hour, I haven't used glue anywhere. Sure, the joints could have been sealed here and there, but I didn’t deal with it. The base color is Tamiya XF-19 sky gray lightened with flat white. I painted the panels with artistic oil, as I could safely wash back on the acrylic base and repair it with thinner. The colors I used: Abteilung snow white + Rembrandt Payne gray. I hope you like it! 🙂
  23. One of my latest creations. Great Mazinger by Bandai at 1/144 scale, Infinitism range. Really a nice kit. Easy and pleasant to assemble. I really enjoyed this model. I had fun customizing the colors and adding details and a bit of weathering. And a finish with a satin varnish to make it less plastic. He's coming to keep his big brother, Grendizer, company. On to the pictures. Hope you will like it. Alain.
  24. Another Star Wars kit done, this time Bandai's B Wing, a bit more involved than the X Wing but still an enjoyable quick build (11 days from start to finish). Built OOB with Tamiya and Mr Colour acrylics. As with the X Wing all the panels were painted and only the small stencil decals used. Panel chipping done with Mr Colour maskol which i found to be thicker than the Humbrol Maskol. Not completely happy with the pilot but at this scale he's ok. It is possible to get the LED light module that comes in the limited edition kit (twice the price) to light up the engines but I didnt think the cost would be worth it. I would still like to do the 1/144 AT-AT if I can get hold of one. As usual any comments welcome. Bandai supply some "laser bolts" Wings folded. Size comparison with the X Wing shows why the B Wing was classed as a capital ship killer rather than a figther. WIP linked below
  25. Another Star Wars kit finished, this time Bandai's excellent X Wing in 1/72. This is the first of their kits I've done but there will be more, possibly the 1/144 AT-AT next. I have glue a few parts together mainly the engines but mostly its clipped together as designed. The Bandai kit has moveable wings and removable undercarriage but I elected not to. I only used the decals for the cockpit and the bands on the guns all other panels and markings have been painted using Tamiya and Mr Colour acrylics. Chipping was done with Humbrol Maskol. As usual all comments welcome.
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