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Found 7 results

  1. Hello, I was wondering if someone already tested Mig's new Aircobra airbrush and can deliver first-hand, non-sponsored insights on it. Especially, the usage with acrylics is something where other manufacturers struggle. To my understanding the brush itself is manufactured by Badger but is not a simple re-branded copy of one of their products. Which Bdager airbrush would come closest to the Aircobra components- and handling-wise? Thanks! Cristian
  2. Summary: A good airbrush for its job but with some peculiarities that can be a deal breaker. Yesterday I had my first painting session with my new Badger Sotar 20/20 V, which I bought directly from Badger with the 2020 Birthday discount. The V has a 0.3 nozzle / needle and a larger cup (sort of - I will explain later). For reference, I have been an owner of an Olympos side-feed airbrush (0.3) for something like 20 years, and a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution (0.2 / 0.4) for one and a half year. The Olympos is a great airbrush but the side feed always bothered me, and the H&S is also great but I cannot get comfortable with the position of the trigger. Both the Olympos and the H&S are manufactured like precision surgical instruments. Upon taking the Sotar out of the pouch it came with, two things impressed me: First, how it fit in my hand. Like the shoe that you will not throw away even though it is falling apart because it is soooo comfortable. I got an immediate similar feeling from the Sotar. Second, that any movement of the needle felt rougher than what I was used to. I took the needle out to find that it was well lubricated, so I attribute the roughness to the back-and-forth friction against some sealing o-ring. Which I do not consider a bad thing, given that my H&S will, when backflushed, send paint back to the trigger section. During painting, the Sotar gave me good atomization, even though I noticed that I needed about 5 PSI more in all scenarios, which I attribute (probably because I am physics-illiterate) to the smaller aperture of the air inlet (which also delayed my enjoyment of the airbrush as I had to find the appropriate adapter!) I am not a big detail painter but in my fooling around with the Sotar, it seems that details wouldn't be a problem. Also, I have to point out that Badger does not provide any protection for the needle while in use and only a badly-cut rubber tube thingy like a cap for when not in use. I understand that this is a discount item but it makes the whole thing feel a little cheap. What is weird in this airbrush is the cup. The Sotar V, being a more general purpose airbrush, has a bigger cup than the other Sotars. However, the cup has a cutaway on its back side from the top to half the height of the cup which makes a significant portion of the cup useless. Deal breaker: The airbrush is great so far but I will not buy another Sotar. The deal breaker is the miiiiniscule nozzle. Smaller than my H&S (of course, since H&S have comparatively huge nozzles - which was its selling point for me, compared to my Olympos) but also smaller than my Olympos which I understand is Iwata-sized and for me was already marginally too small but thankfully has two flat surfaces on its two sides that made it much more handlable. Sotar nozzle is so small that I can barely hold between my fingers - and I have normal fingers. But I also have a standing relation with the floor monster (no carpet) so I am sure that one of these days this small small nozzle will disappear never to be found again. So a good airbrush for its job but with some peculiarities which can be a deal breaker.
  3. Hi guys, here are some photos of a model being completed ... departing from the terrible Trumpeter Kit Tu16 K10 ... converted into K10-26 I propose a backward WIP, that is starting from the current state and the phases that preceded it ... 😎 sorry for my mistake english ... ciao Silvano
  4. FV217 Badger Heavy Tank Destroyer (35A034) 1:35 Amusing Hobby Still clinging onto the "bigger is better" ethos that Hitler forced upon the Allies during the last years of WWII, post war British doctrine continued to specify and design huge and lumbering tanks for a while, such as the Tortoise, and to a great extent the Conqueror, carrying a 120mm gun that was intended to take out opposition armour at longer range than the smaller Centurion, whilst working in cooperation together. Design began while the war was still raging, and continued with subsequent changes to specification due to rapidly evolving needs for a further 10 years before it morphed into the Conqueror. This chassis was to be used as the basis for the Badger or FV217 which was to be armed with the same 120mm gun as the Conqueror. The project never made it off the drawing board though, so it is essentially a what if. The specs that can be found look impressive, however with the development of what would become the Main Battle Tank the days of the Tank Destroyer were numbered. The Kit This is a reboxing of the original Conqueror II kit with the addition of an extra sprue of parts, and a new casting for the main hull. This seems to be one of the vehicle designs revisited by World Of Tanks which amusing hobby seem to be using for inspiration. Construction begins with the hull, and the suspension bogies that contain the Horstmann suspension units, which is where the real springs come in. These are contained between two end-caps, which affix to a back-plate, and if you're careful with the glue when you attach the perforated front part, you should end up with working suspension. Two pairs of road wheels and a single pair of return rollers are fixed to the axles, and held in place by hub caps that fit using friction alone, so the wheels should turn too if you don't overdo the paint. This is repeated over the eight bogies, a multi-part drive sprocket with final drive housing is installed at the rear and the adjustable idler wheels are added to the lower glacis, with an element of adjustment possible before you apply glue, which should allow you to take up any additional slack in the tracks before you finish construction. The upper hull is essentially one complete part to which are added the front hatches and the main gun. There are a multitude of small fittings to add along side lockers and storage bins. There is a hatch to makeup nd add to the rear bulkhead of the top casemate. At the rear tools and the exhaust system are added with smoke dischargers being added to the side. The gun itself is made up from 5 parts with the gun broken down into sections which are single part moulds so there will be no massive seam to remove. For the top o the casemate a machine gun/command copula is also constructed at this time. The tracks are very nicely moulded, and are of the click-fit workable variety, which works very well indeed in this instance. The parts are moulded in pairs with a small injection manifold between them, and they are attached by only two sprue gates, with no ejector pins to deal with. Clean-up is super-simple due to the location of the gates, and the click action is quite robust, leaving you with a run of tracks in fairly short order, which is just as well as you need 98 links per side. Having seen a few rather poorly engineered track joining methods from other major manufacturers lately, it's refreshing to see a genuinely good track-making method from Amusing Hobby. With the tracks installed, the hull halves can be joined, the top copula installed; and the side skirts added. Markings It's an AFV kit, so the decal sheet is the size of an over-ambitious stamp. As the real thing never existed there are standard British Armour markigs with two suggested schemes of the standard Green & Black, and the Berlin camo scheme. Conclusion There's something about the bulk of this tank destroyer which is quite impressive, even if it was never built. Amusing Hobby have captured that aspect of it very well. We just wonder what they are dreaming up kitting next! Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from good model shops.
  5. Tu-16K-26 pics taken at Poltava Museum of Long range & strategic Aviation, Ukraine; by Dave Haskell.
  6. Ultimate Acrylic Primer - Black, Grey & White Ultimate Products Primers are an important step in isolating your model's materials from the coming paint, and also play a part in producing a harmonious base on which to build your painting work, preventing peeling, the patina of the model underneath showing through, and improving adhesion. There are lacquer primers out there, but they suffer from pretty nasty smells with chemical properties to match, rendering them difficult to use without a spray booth or an empty house. Acrylic primers have been available for some time now, with various manufacturers producing them, and with varying degrees of success. This new one from Ultimate was developed by American airbrush company Badger using a name that I can't properly pronounce, but is so good that Ultimate have re-bottled it and are selling it as the ultimate in primers (note the lower case ultimate). It is available in three shades as mentioned in the title, and can be purchased in either 60 or 120ml polyvinyl chloride bottled with a flip-top dispenser cap. On first use you unscrew the cap and remove the protective foil lid to allow the paint to exit the dispensing nozzle when you need it, then close and shake the bottle thoroughly to evenly disperse the components. I find adding a steel or glass ball bearing assists greatly with this. The paint itself looks quite thick in the bottle, and pours slowly into your paint cup, but is intended to be used neat, without any diluent. A 0.3mm needle at 20psi or higher is also recommended, but I have carried out my tests with a 0.2mm needle in my Infinity, so it's a fair bet it'll work in any 0.2mm or larger needle too. Ensure the area is at a reasonably comfortable temperature, and that the paint is warm too, or it will spray thickly and a little orange-peel might initially show up, although in my test this disappeared during curing, which is nice. At a more realistic temperature (my workshop was cold at the time), the paint sprays much thinner, and the process is quick and easy, resulting in a nice thin coat that thins further while drying. If you experience spitting or a ragged edge to your work, then you should warm up your environment a little and try again. That's not the paint's fault, but more of a symptom of my terrible temperature regulation and general poor health. The instructions state that you can paint over the primer within 30 minutes, which is great news if you're impatient like me. It also accepts Tamiya masking tape that has been burnished down, lifting without any damage or pulling, which is pretty good for a fairly fresh coat of paint of any sort. You can scrape the paint off with the edge of your fingernail with a bit of practice, but as you can do that with just about any other modelling paint after 20-30 minutes, it's hardly of note. The finished primed surface is exceptional, with even the early tests having a nice thin finished coat, despite the thickness of the initial application. I'd have held the initial tests up as a way not to spray primer if it hadn't sorted itself out during curing, so it appears to be pretty bomb-proof as far as the occasional goof might be concerned. Ultimate recommend leaving the primer to fully cure for 24 hours if you plan on sanding or buffing it back, so I will leave this sample the requisite time and reconvene with a piece of fine grit paper to put that hypothesis to the test. 24 hours later, and the test is passed with flying colours. The rough sanding test section shows the paint and styrene being ripped through by the abrasive together, while the medium grit illustrates that the paint has been worn through as you would expect with any non-acrylic primer, leaving feathered edges that could be easily blended. The polishing grade test patch shows that the paint has been smoothed to a glossy finish without any surface damage or tearing that can be associated with other acrylic primers. I also did a quick test on fresh paint that had been down 30 minutes, and although it was still soft, it was capable of withstanding light polishing. Adhesion is clearly excellent, although I did take the precaution of cleaning the surface with IPA beforehand to ensure that finger oils didn't interfere with the test. However, I eventually sprayed an additional two wing surfaces during the test, and these didn't receive the same preparation, with no apparent difference in finish. Update I have now used the primer in the field (well - the workshop actually), and am updating the review to reflect my experiences. I used the black to prepare my recent Nebelwerfer 42 for paint (you can see the end result here), and found it very easy to use and resilient to handling. Adhesion was excellent, as it had to cope with brass tube, PE, resin and styrene all in one small area. The finish was perfect for immediate painting, and resulted in a very smooth final coat that stands up to close inspection. I added a little white from above to give a little bit of pre-lighting to the primer, which has been lost to an extent due to the camo splotches, but I know it's there Conclusion This is a very capable acrylic primer, which does everything that I would ask of a primer. It goes down well under sometimes less than ideal circumstances and shrinks back to a thin layer when dry. You can overcoat it in 30 minutes, sand or polish it after 24 hours without fear of the paint rolling up off the surface, which speaks of excellent adhesion. The finished primer coat is also robust, standing up to handling and even light scratching before the plastic is exposed, which is all you can ask of any primer. Add together all those aspects of performance that you would expect from a primer and you already have a good reason to use it. When you then take into account easy clean-up with water/Ultimate Airbrush Cleaner, plus a distinct lack of smell during and after spraying, easy removal in the event of a mistake or model strip, then it starts to look compelling. Black 120ml Black 60ml Grey 120ml Grey 60ml White 120ml White 60ml Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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