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  1. Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.
  2. Hi all Straight onto the next one! I used to own a MK4 Prelude. Loved that car. After seeing John's Prelude build it got me thinking was there a model of the MK4 and there was! Have to admit the first one I managed to win on eBay was this one which is exactly what my car looked like. Now I know the tyres were missing but unfortunately so were a couple more bits and the model itself was not in very good condition. So when I saw the Aoshima version come up I snapped it up! Good thing about that is that the model is in excellent condition and with tyres! . It also has the boot spoiler that my Prelude had but which isn't part of the revell kit so that was a welcome bonus. It also gives me a spare body ton practice on. Two reasons. One I could not find a spray can to match the Brittany blue green colour but I did find the following: Which hopefully can give me the right colour. Second reason is I bought these to replicate my number plate And if you look at the rear of the model And compare it with a UK car You can see that the number plate area is too tall and not wide enough so I need to do something like this Widen it to the red lines and lower it to the blue. Surgery is required! Thus the good thing about having a spare body to practice on! Question : what can I use to fill the gaps? I do have some putty but trying to sand it down and make it straight in such an awkward area is going to be tricky... So until I solve that problem I'll start on the colour testing. Sorry about the essay! Thanks for looking. Nick
  3. Aoshima is working on a 1/144th Kawasaki C-2 kit - ref. AIRCRAFT No.3 Source: https://hobby.dengeki.com/event/638007/ Source: https://tieba.baidu.com/p/5896512964 V.P.
  4. Dear Colleagues The Royal Navy only called upon nature to inspire the naming of warships with their Flower class corvettes, but for the Japanese all their destroyers were named after poetic natural images. In this case Hatsuharu apparently means 'early spring'. Unusually, the 1931 design genuinely tried to fit the treaty restriction of a sub-2000 t weight (which they later abandoned) and the ship was launched in 1933. However, a drastic redesign was needed in 1935 due to top heavy problems with a super-firing B turret arrangement (later moved to the stern). Hatsuharu lasted until 1944 when sunk by bombing in the Philippines in November 1944. The Aoshima kit has a lovely hull and is one of their better ship kits. As is my way I have added a lot of photo etch apart from the stuff that came with the ship and used brass rods for the masts. Hope you like it Andrew
  5. Here are the compelted phtoos of the brand new Aoshima 1:48 scale Thunderbird 4. I ordered this direct from Hobby Link Japan late last year and it arrived in January. I didn't do a WIP thread for this but its a nice kit without any major faults. The kit comes with a choice of underside plastes to allow you to add wheels and a the kit includes a small electric motor that can be used to turn this into a toy. It also comes with a light bulb to put in the lighting panel at the front, but I replaced this with 2 Surface Mount LEDs. You also get a selection of tools that can be fitted to the front, including the rams that are used to free the trapped Martian Probe capsule in "Day of Disaster". There are also 3 torpedoes and the two central tubes have springs that can be used to fire them. The shape is excellent, much better then the old Bandai kit, my only complaints being the scaling of the Gordon figure and the way the thruster tubes are attached to the main body. I also think they are too long (they are the red tubes st the rear). The kit somes with a nice base and even some lichen to stick to the base. I just painted the base brown and dry-brushed some grey over the rocks. The kit provides decals for the red stripes, but I masked and painted them. I had troubel with the decals as they were VERY delicate and the "Thunderbird 4" decals on the sides and rear rolled up on me during application never to be usable again, so I had print my own using th etemplate I'd created previsouly for the Bandai kit. So here are the photos And now for a couple with the Bandai kit In this one you can really see how bad the shape around the cockpit is on the Bandai kit!
  6. Hi all, calling this build done; it was a blast down memory lane, as I am sure it was for quite a few of you over 50 years. I painted the Fireflash in Tamiya LP6 Pure blue and Mr Color Super Metallic's super iron 2 with 30 drops of LP-6 to give me a bluish tinge to the silver. My plan was to mount the plane on fibre optic strands that had been epoxied into the tops of each Elevator car. 1.8mm strand was stiff enough to hold up the plane, I did not glue them into the fuselage so that I can remove the Fireflash for easy transport. I super glued the cars to the base. Overall I am delighted how this kit came out and I would like to thank everyone for their support and comments. Stay tuned for Thunderbird 2 coming soon!
  7. Hi all, I thought I would tackle the tiny Elevator cars as a gentle intro for this build. Everything so far has been a super nice fit. I masked and airbrushed the top of the cars in black and then hand painted the rest. The decals are superb quality; they went down easy enough on the cars. Once weathered I started on the Fireflash aircraft, the parts so far have just fell together, no fit issues so far. Car number 3 will be used later in the build when I start on TB2.
  8. Hi Mods Could you please remove this post. Manage to post it twice! Thanks Nick Hi all Straight onto the next one! I used to own a MK4 Prelude. Loved that car. After seeing John's Prelude build it got me thinking was there a model of the MK4 and there was! Have to admit the first one I managed to win on eBay was this one which is exactly what my car looked like. Now I know the tyres were missing but unfortunately so were a couple more bits and the model itself was not in very good condition. So when I saw the Aoshima version come up I snapped it up! Good thing about that is that the model is in excellent condition and with tyres! . It also has the boot spoiler that my Prelude had but which isn't part of the revell kit so that was a welcome bonus. It also gives me a spare body ton practice on. Two reasons. One I could not find a spray can to match the Brittany blue green colour but I did find the following: Which hopefully can give me the right colour. Second reason is I bought these to replicate my number plate And if you look at the rear of the model And compare it with a UK car You can see that the number plate area is too tall and not wide enough so I need to do something like this Widen it to the red lines and lower it to the blue. Surgery is required! Thus the good thing about having a spare body to practice on! Question : what can I use to fill the gaps? I do have some putty but trying to sand it down and make it straight in such an awkward area is going to be tricky... So until I solve that problem I'll start on the colour testing. Sorry about the essay! Thanks for looking. Nick
  9. Just finished this one eventually after having it half built on the shelf for months concentrating on the other WW2 diorama, Very happy with the end result though Fujimi garage accessories, and Aoshima 1/24 scale MGB
  10. Hi all calling this all finished, the base is a cake board cut down slightly and covered in cork sheet, the dead trees are from an aquatic eBay store that's been painted with 502 oils and the sandy earth was a layer of war gaming sand and Flory pigments, all held in place with Hataka orange top semi matt clear lacquer. The interceptor car is an out of the box build, painted in Mr Hobby Color dark iron 214. This colour gave the car a nice flat sun bleached effect. I had a lot of fun building this diorama, I hope you like the final reveal guys.
  11. Hi all, I intend to combine all of these kits to produce a diorama featuring some of the main characters and vehicles in Mad Max 2. I will be converting the Wallis Military Gyrocopter into the one seen in the movie, I will be swapping out the engine and using the one from the VW Beetle and I will have to scratch build the twin tail fin assembly. I was lucky to find the resin figures for sale on eBay, they were the last of a limited number produced, no idea by who, but they are nicely cast and look pretty accurate. To complement the figures I bought the kit with the dog, as I wanted to have Max's dog in the diorama. The Beetle will be used in a future build no doubt. It should make an interesting diorama I think with all of these vehicles and figures combined into it. Today I jumped into the build of the Gyrocopter engine conversion, my research found that the engine was from a VW Beetle, the Little Nellie and military version show a flat four 2 stroke engine, I cut the gearbox casing off the Beetle engine and using the mounting points from the 2 stroke kit engine. I found it fairly easy to produce a convincing fitment. However I did have to turn the cylinder barrels and heads around because they lay in a tray and I had to leave that part off to give a more accurate look. I got lucky with the exhaust pipes, they were made up from a spare car exhaust I had in my spares box. For the twin tail fins I used some parts for mounting the Little Nellie weapon pylons and traced around the original rudder to get accurate looking tail fins. I don't think they were used as rudders, just stabilisers, so I fitted them to the made up cross bracing, I also made a small jockey wheel just under the rear frame centre rail. I have limited frame grabs of the movie Gyrocopter, so I am only going for a fair representation of it. That's all for now folks.
  12. The decision has been made. There are some optional parts that came with the kit, so this should be a fun one to play with. Looking forward to this.
  13. Hello Few pictures of my newest project. Enjoy. Mike
  14. Hi everyone, First post for me here with a few pictures of my latest build, the '85 San Remo winning Audi Quattro S1. Beemax kit with detail-up set (PE parts, harness, antenna, smoking decals) and the KMP wheel set including the typical wheel fans from the eighties. My favorite GrB monster. I hope you like it too ! PS: I deliberately installed the fan only on one side so I can enjoy the view with or without, according to my mood.
  15. Hi All, Yet another shelf sitter that has been resurrected... I have had this for more than 30 years, I'm sure. I happened to be in our local Antics store, and saw the self-same kit in a new boxing, but definitely the same kit... Anyway, here we are so far... Box top: Not a bad looking bike for it's day. The engine: This was all satin-chromed by Aoshima and looked a bit 'toy-like'. So, I stripped it using caustic soda, primed it with my home-brew grey primer before painting it with Tamiya XF16. It didn't come out too bad, looks a lot more like aluminium now. There is a little breather pipe on the back of the engine, at least that's what I think it is. However, it had gone AWOL. so I had to fabricate a replacement with 3/32nd evergreen styrene tube with a 3/64th rod glued into the end to locate it into the cylinder block. After a bit of aluminium, it looked the part. It looks a bit flat at the moment, but I'll give a bit of a wash to bring out the details. Probably a mix of black and brown enamels, just to pop out the detail... This where we are at the present. The cylinder head and spark-plugs have been added, and then a bespoke ignition lead for each plug. There was nothing in the instructions about these, so I fabricated and CA'd them to the pins on the plugs. More soon. Thanks for looking, Alan.
  16. Evening all, My build of the London Black Cab has finished and the images submitted for judging. Here it is for the viewing pleasure of my fellow Britmodellers. Feel free to comment as you see fit. Trying to improve my photographs so fingers crossed they're better than previous ones. It was a fast build and learned a lot of good lessons along the way. It was built using only the kit and sprues in the box + a set of VIP Rims. Its the first time i have done a roof chop and certainly something i would like to do again given the right subject. All the photos are available in the Google photos album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bLSeaCMKymmCvPMZ9 The WIP is here: Photos are below: I hope you like it, cheers for looking. Coops Coops
  17. This is Aoshima's curbside 1:24 MG B, as reboxed in the past by Airfix which is the one I had. I think Revell have also offered this kit, and Aoshima have recently re-issued it again. I started this sometime in 2009, but it wasn't completed until the summer of 2010, due to the ongoing problem of too many projects at once, and my work desk being an utter tip at that time. This one was built entirely out of the box, except for BMF being used for the chrome trims along the flanks and for the windscreen frame (the screen, quarterlights and frame was a one piece clear molding). I think I may have used an aluminium effect BMF so that the screen frame wasn't too bright, as the real thing is polished alloy, rather than chrome. It comes with options for hood up, hood down, half tonneau or rear tonneau only. My kit came with the parts for the rubber bumper version too. However, Aoshima's recent releases are boxed as different chrome bumper & rubber bumper ones - whilst the rubber bumper release includes the chrome bumper parts, the chrome bumper one doesn't include the rubber bumpers or the half tonneau which are all on the same mini sprue. Aside from box art, the decals are also slightly different to reflect the model year (think it's basically the numberplates), and also the rubber bumper version now includes a small sprue with a set of Rostyle steel wheels, which are more appropriate for the rubber bumper cars than the wires. However, what the Airfix or Aoshima instructions don't tell you is that the ride height between the two is different as the rubber bumper cars were jacked up for compliance with US Federal regs (to do with headlamp and / or bumper heights). However, the ride height on the model can be adjusted for either without any modifications to the parts - details below: Floorpan / chassis in the rubber bumper ride height position, slotted in as per the instructions. Chrome bumper ride height position - note that the floorpan / chassis has been slotted in higher up inside the body and is now resting above the tabs that it is supposed to clip into. There didn't seem to be any affect on the fit of the interior tub, but the ride height difference was noticable.
  18. So here we go, this is my interpretation of Aoshima's excellent Lamborghini Countach LP400. I've always preferred the original Countach before it sprouted wings, wheel arches, massive tyres etc., so this one appealed straight away. It was a bit daunting when I opened the box, but in truth this is a very well engineered kit with very few issues. It's probably the best kit I've built so far, and I have to admit that the end result, being completely out of the box, is 90% down to Aoshima with only a small input from me. I'll start by apologising in advance if you feel there are too many photos (and I will admit that this post is very photo heavy), but the Countach is a very striking and photogenic car. The build thread is here if anyone wants to see how it came together. First up, the engine bay, which to my eyes looks very good even though it's one of those where you only really build the bits you can see, Still pretty effective though: Then it's onto the interior. the doors can be placed in the closed or open positions by means of removing them and positioning the hinge arm into one of two positions in the A-pillar - simple but effective. This also has the advantage that for photography you can remove the door completely giving an unusually clear view of the interior of the car: It's never the easiest thing to show the underside, particularly of a low slung sports car, but hopefully the mirror shots will give an rough idea. The parts underneath are all separate, with the coil springs (all six of them), being particularly effective at sucking time. And you can't even see them in these shots... And now it's time for the walkaround the car which I usually put in these RFIs. The trouble is that as opening the doors makes such a difference to the look of the car, I'm afraid there are in effect two walkarounds, hence lots of photos. First up, with everything closed. I mention at the end of the build thread about the doors not quite fitting perfectly. the truth is that they sit quite loosely and adding the door cards and chassis seems to have ever so slightly flattened the shape - they still fit in the door gap but now sit a little proud at the top. After that little lot, here's some (not as many) of it with the doors open. Those metal pins look good, but the boot one is a bit of a pain as it has a penchant for diving into the engine bay when you're trying to prop up the engine cover. Even so, it's still a good idea and looks much better than my usual method of supporting a bonnet (i.e. putting a cocktail stick in there). If you made it this far, thanks for looking in. All comments and constructive criticism welcome, I'm improving but still a fair way from getting a 10/10 model.
  19. Having completed the Stratos is pretty quick time (for me at least), it's time to move on to the next project. This time, it's the turn of the Lamborghini Countach, which I picked up a couple of years ago. I had a read around before buying this kit, and Aoshima's Countaches generally seemed to get the best reviews. Having bought the kit, I can see why - even sitting loose in the box it looks great. First reaction on opening the box though was that not only did it look good, but also a little bit daunting as there are a lot of sprues which suggests lots of parts. I think it's only a similar quantity to the Trabant, so maybe not that scary. Work on this actually started way back in June with spraying all the chassis and bits which need to have the same finish as it, alongside the body and all the body coloured items. No pics of the chassis work in progress (just Halfords grey primer then satin black), so I'll go straight onto the body. Not only is the body crisply moulded, but there are also minimal mould lines and I only found a couple of sink marks on the rear deck above and to the side of the tail lights. Needless to say, they have been filled prior to priming. And with the filler sanded down. Aoshima do seem to have been very conscious of those thin A- and B-pillars, so plenty of bracing to be cut out prior to construction, but much better that than snapped or bent pillars. Even better, a solid part is provided for where the windscreen belongs to help protect that delicate A-pillar prior to the glass going in. You remove the windscreen brace first, fit the solid windscreen to provide strength, then remove the rest of the bracing. This is where it ended up after the primer had gone on. After that, it was a case of adding the colour coat. The Countach isn't a car which needs a bright colour to stand out, but I remember a bright orange Matchbox Countach I had when I was about four, so that was the obvious colour. I fully appreciate that in that photo it looks like I've peeled an orange and glued it to the body, but after it got a clear coat it does look much better. Currently it's part polished, so is a bit of a work in progress. I taped the sills on from behind for spraying, they're sitting in a box now and will get properly fitted in due course. This weekend is really where I'm starting the build proper. Tomorrow I should be able to provide a small update
  20. For my next build I shall be building the new Aoshima Thunderbird 3 kit that arrived on my doorstep a couple of weeks ago. This is intended to display on the IPMS Farnborough display at Telford in November. First the box art: Now the contents: So construction is pretty simple for most of it apart from the middle section with the fins. Here I've painted them up while they are still on the sprues since the sprue gates on the side that will rest against the body. I've used Tamiya Metallic Grey: I've put together the 3 engine pods and attached them to the lower body. There are seperate white pieces for the tops and bottoms of the engines. These were mouled with depressions to represent the retros and exhausts, so these got drilled out. There are some quite bad moulding seams on some of the parts, but the plastic is that brittle but solid plastic common in Aoshima and Imai kits, so these sand out very well and the surface polishes up without too much hassle. As usual the camera flash has overexposed things. You can see that I've drilled out the base of the engines as well as I have had some thoughts about how to pose this On the right you can see the three docking rings that are supplied with the kit. One has thin rings, a second has a thing ring with tow thinner rings on either side and the third had boxes along the circumference like this: As you can see here, you can see the bad joint around the middle and my first attempt at sorting it out, but I don't think its going to work. This is just about the worst part of the kit. I think the only other things I could do here would be to cut some thin plastic card squares, however to be honest I'm not sure I can be bothered! in the background you can see one of the other docking rings which I think II'll use instead. Here are the legs ready for priming: The kit comes with a loat of "fillets" that fit into the slots int he legs and are moulded in dark blue plastic, these will be sprayed Tamiya Nato Black before fitting. This is the base that comes with the kit: which is okay I guess but I have had a different idea which will involved a ring-shaped construction and some more cotton wool Finally here is the decal sheet: The tall blue "U" shaped decals are intended to wrap around the base of each fin in the middle of the body. The Yellow chevrons are intended for the base of each fin which is a different colour. I think I might use them since the thought of masking all 18 fins creeps me out So next I need to get hold of some Peugeot Seville paint from Halfords...
  21. ShinMaywa US-2 kit - ref.Aoshima is to release in July 2016 a 1/144th - ref. N°1 Sources: http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/4905083011843/ http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=287695&view=findpost&p=2746837 Box art Test shot V.P.
  22. It seems like ages since I did a Thunderbirds model - well it was October last year but it SEEMS a long time ago - so I decided to raid the stash and pull out a kit I've had for quite a few years and see what could be done with it! My choice this time was the Aoshima Recovery Vehicle If you look very closely you'll see the box boasts a 2 channel remove control option!! Whoo hoo, Vroom Vroom! Okay lets not get too excited, the 2 channels allow for forward and reverse plus the 'firing' and winching in of the magnetic grapples!! Sounds awesome? Hmmm.... Here are the contents of the box: You'll see it comes with 2 electric motors plus a stack of other bits alongside the plastic. It should be noted that this kit uses the same technique as the Aoshima Mole with 2 rubber bands with the tracks glued into mating holes in the rubber. It works very well on the Mole kit and keeps the tracks nice and flexible. On the subject of the Mole, that kit ALSO claims to be 1:72 and while the tractor bodies of both of these are the same size, the Mole is supposed to be a much larger machine. On the Recovery Vehicle one you can see the windscreen so can imagine the size of the driver. What is missing in the above photo (because I forgot to take a sprue shot until I'd already started building doh!) is the aforementioned '2 Channel Remove Control' controller. This comes as part of the kit and is quite easy to assemble as it includes a prefabricated circuit beard with wires already soldered on. It accepts 4 AA batteries and has 2 constrol sticks that simply move forward and back. I've tested it and it all works fine. My plan it to connect this to the model via a 4-pin plug and socket on the underside so the controller can be detached when I want to display the static model and then plugged in to play with.. .er I mean to display the motorised action... ahem! The instructions are the usual Aoshima mix of Japanese and English, French and German These pages show you the construction of the controller Approaching Danger Zone...
  23. This is supposed to be the 'Remote Control' verision of this kit which was supposed to let you drive it back and forward but not turn and fire the magnetic grapples and rewind them. However the gearing never worked properly and I gave up because after all this isn't a toy! (Honest guv I mean it!!!) You can see the WIP here Here are the completed photos... Its a good addition to my collection of Thunderbirds pod vehicles, joining The Mole, Firefly and of course Thunderbird 4
  24. Good evening everyone. A bit of long shot I know but does anybody know where I could obtain a couple of motors which would fit the Mole and Recovery Vehicle kits please? Thanks in advance.
  25. In a rush of spontaneity my nearest & dearest decided to add to my stash by purchasing an Aoshima fire engine......to 1/72 scale which makes it just 5.5” long! Now this isn’t something I’d normally go for, especially at this small scale, but decided it was a challenge I’d be happy tackling so set about the build. In true Aoshima style the fit of parts and quality of moulding was pretty spot on so construction wasn’t an issue, but the painting was another story. I won’t go into details, but I had a few issues that really tested my patience! The model represents a fire ladder truck from Otsu in Japan and if required can be built with tilting (detailed) cab, rotating table, extending ladder and extending stabilisers. Due to the fragility of the ladder construction I elected to leave it retracted as it’s purely a static display model, but all other features are working. The only modifications I’ve made is to drill out the centre of the (grey) roof mounted megaphone and install a central cone (a solid grey blob didn’t quite look right), and the 4 door mirrors had their back shells built up with acrylic putty to simulate the shape of the full size. Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints were used with a Molotow chrome pen used for details like the front bumpers, mirror glass, hydraulic pistons and some cabin details. I simply decanted the chrome liquid and applied it with a fine brush. Luckily most fire engines are kept extremely clean so very little weathering was required. Anyhoo, please have a gander as it’s something a little different to the norm.
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