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  1. ShinMaywa US-2 kit - ref.Aoshima is to release in July 2016 a 1/144th - ref. NĀ°1 Sources: http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/4905083011843/ http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=287695&view=findpost&p=2746837 Box art Test shot V.P.
  2. Just finished this one eventually after having it half built on the shelf for months concentrating on the other WW2 diorama, Very happy with the end result though Fujimi garage accessories, and Aoshima 1/24 scale MGB
  3. Another build that didn't make the Salty Sea Dog GB deadline, I hope it's not too obnoxious to continue it here. The build (or rather, a large amount of obsessing about camouflage without actually doing much building), up until this point can be found here: Most recent update sees the major colours of the camouflage (mostly) down; colourcoats 507C, B5, MS1: There don't seem to be any photos of the port side camouflage, barring some fairly obscured views of the island, so this is pretty much a guess as to what it might look like. Many thanks to Jamie and Richard for sorting through it all for me. It's not come out quite how I imagined it, but I'm reasonably happy. Looking back at the photos and plans, a few bits that haven't come out quite right, but after a bit of 507A on the flight- and quarter-decks, I think we're not a million miles away from assembly. Cheers, Andy
  4. With the photoshoot out of the way, it's time to call the MGB done. For those who haven't seen this kit, Aoshima's rubber bumper kit is a good one to go for as it has all the bits you need for the chrome bumper version in there as well (i.e. wire wheels and chrome bumpers). In effect, this kit is the chrome bumper kit with added Rostyle wheels, rubber bumper and tonneau cover. Unfortunately, that also means that all the other bits which changed in the 1974 facelift are also as the original - you can make a rubber-bumper version with this kit, but if you want it accurate you'll need to make quite a few modifications yourself. There are other good conversions on here, either completed or in progress, but I took the view that as 99%+ of people won't know of the difference I could live with the inaccuracies and make do with it as it it. The kit itself is kerbside, with the underside of the engine moulded into the chassis. With a bit of careful painting you can make it look ok, but it's not a bit to go showing off. It's not a new kit, but it is one which goes together well, although getting the body over the tub and aligned with its mounting slots is harder than I expected. Other than the wipers, that was about the only bit which gave me any trouble with fitment so I'd definitely recommend this kit. Mine is built out of the box with the exception of me adding seatbelts made of buckles from the Belkits Fiesta rally kit and some 2mm ribbon. I wanted to do it a '70s colour, and was initially going to paint it Sand Yellow (babysick), but couldn't find it in Halfords. They did do Inca Yellow which I nearly got until I decided to check out the Rover section and there was a spraycan of Russet Brown. I knew I had to use that for its '70s vibe, but the more I've worked on the car the more I like it and now I can't think of a colour I'd rather have used. That was then clear-coated with Tamiya TS13 Clear which seems to have made the brown that little bit richer. As for how I've done, in some ways this is one of my better builds. Certainly, it's rare for me not have any foul ups in sticking bits together but I've avoided it here. And I feel I'm getting better at BMFing too. The downside is the paint, not the colour but there are some bits where I went through the clear giving a bit of an uneven finish in some lights. For the most part it's hidden, but I know it's there and it does irritate. The link below takes you to the full build thread which should provide a more complete breakdown (caution: lots of detail painting in here!). With that lot written, time to go into photo overload (got rid of most of the dust, but it's amazing how quickly it reappears ). As usual, all comments and (constructive!) criticism is welcome. And thanks for looking, and for all the encouragement throughout the build. I'll start off with a top-down view (which is also probably the worst photo of the lot). After that, it's time for my usual tour around the car: I also tried a few shots in the sun since the weather was good this afternoon and the sulight really makes the brown pop, well as much as brown can anyway. Next time I'll open the conservatory doors as I hadn't appreciated how much the glass was going to reflect the highlights. Next up, a few close-ups of some of the bits I feel I managed to do a bit better than my usual standard. First up, since they got so many comments through the build thread, the Rostyle wheels. It took a long time to paint these, but the end result feels like it was worth it. Next up, the BMF. Still something of a beginner at this (this is only the 3rd car I've used it on), but I was particularly pleased with how the quarterlights went. Granted they're not perfect, but they are pretty much on the limit of my current ability. The mirror in the foreground was painted with Revell acrylic Silver (90) with details in semi-gloss black, and were then pinned to the bodywork to make them a bit stronger. Not strong enough to survive fitting the body to the chassis though. The coach strip is also done in BMF. Unfortunately, although I spent a bit of time getting rid of the dust from the car, before I took this shot I didn't spend as long getting rid of the dust from the camera lens and with the car almost touching the lens (as you can see from the reflection in the paint) it picked up all the lens dust in shot The other bit which I was pleased with was the interior. Like the wheels, this took a while with the detail painting. And, while it might be inaccurate, I'm happy with the result. I did wonder if the tan/Autumn Leaf seats might be a bit much with the brown body, but in the end I'm happy with the effect. And with that, all that's left is a few shots from when I started playing around with composition: Thanks again for looking. Hope there weren't too many photos!
  5. Finally decided on this one, despite having amassed a small hoard of reference material on escort carriers, which was the other option. I've always been quite taken by the pointed flight decks of the Hermes and Eagle, and the fully enclosed and flared bow is particularly striking to my eye at least. Unluckily for Aoshima, Flyhawk released an (apparently) much better kit at about the same time, but this one caught my eye at the LMS and I figure it's better to buy local. The plan is to be pretty lazy and build it OOB from the instructions, in the hope that it might free up some time for a second build in this GB. A little background for those who know as little about her as I did at 9am this morning (apologies for any errors for those who actually know what they're talking about, I'm very happy to be corrected). HMS Hermes was the world's first carrier to be built as such 'from the ground sea up', rather than as a conversion. Owing to the experimental nature of ship based air operations at the time, the RN didn't have a great idea what they were doing, and construction took until 1924 with many changes of configuration along the way. Some artefacts of the bygone era remained though, including the rather anachronistic 5.5" anti-ship guns built into her side in a style evoking the pre-dreadnaughts, along with a massive battleship-style gunnery control tower to direct them. The open stern and quarterdeck is also a result of intial designs being focussed on recovering seaplanes straight in through the aft hangar doors, with a flexible deck that could extend below the waterline. Her small size and lack of petrol storage limited the size of her air wing, and she saw wartime service in the Med and Indian Ocean before her sinking in April 1942, when caught without her aircraft, and trying to flee Trincomalee in anticipation of the raid on Ceylon by the bulk of the Japanese fleet carriers. The kit is for her configuration at her sinking in 1942. The later wartime camouflage appeals to the modeller as both adding visual interest and being easier to 'hide behind'. A certain part of me would prefer her in a pre-war configuration on the China Station, but I don't have the aircraft for that, nor I suspect the skill at pulling off those acres of white paint. Still, having avoided work most of the morning by looking at various sites and the flyhawk instructions, it doesn't seem to be a massive change in configuration, since it seems that most of her planned wartime refits were never started. EDIT: Right so a first foray into the box and what to do we have? First impressions are actually pretty good. I had expected (given the unflattering comparisons with the flyhawk kit that I'd seen made; along with some similarly unflattering comments about Aoshima ship kits of the past), some vague outlines with a few simple nondescript styrene dumplings to stand in the correct position for various guns, masts and whatnot. Really though it looks a fair bit better than that. The satisfyingly deep box has a nice picture of a PE fret on the side, but my Kanji-fu wasn't up to realising that it's an advert for the upgrade kit. Not that it would've changed my purchase but heyho. You can just see a big metal plate under the box which is clamped to the waterline base for some stability. A nice touch. The hull detail is a little textured but sharp enough. Print sharpness, gate design and so on seem pretty good to me at first glance. Guns are always a bit of a weak point in 700 scale ships but these little 5.5" and 4" look pretty sharp for IM styrene. What I suspect are Oerlkons to the right are a little marginal, but I think I have some nice Starling resin ones, or indeed some leftover PE origami versions from IBG destroyer kits. A random solitary pair of swordfish included on these frames. Some madcap slide moulding went into the crane, which is hard to believe was cost-effective, but it looks pretty nice for styrene. Then oddly there are two copies of a frame from their Ark Royal kit. From what I can make out, they don't seem to be used for much more than a few lowly carley floats in this kit. The detail looks a little less sharp on these and the gate design is noticably less well defined. Still, lots of nice serviceable 4.5" turrets, directors, octo pompoms, quad .50cals, anchors and outriggers. Possibly my perspective on this kit is somewhat influenced by the unholy reaction of asian-scottish genes to the sight of free stuff. Roundels look a little fried eggy. I think I might have some better AM ones lying around. The final bag contains a couple of frames with 4 more swordfish; two folded and two unfurled. I also have a copy of Flyhawk's WW2 Royal Naval Aircraft I (only partly obtained with this build in mind). The Flyhawk stringbags have some excruciating looking PE props and struts, where the Aoshima are rather simpler, and while the plastic also looks a little better, the comparison is not horrific from Aoshima's perspective. Flyhawk to the left, Aoshima to the right. Given my history with these nutty flyhawk superdetailed addons, the Aoshima ones will probably look the better once I'm through with them. 13 pieces for a wee 1/700 aircraft is getting pretty silly. So looks pretty good so far, I'm raring to go but with the weekend comes kids, kids' birthday parties, playdates and all the excurciating things that go with it. Still in the post are some Eduard crew figures that I've never tried before, and some more reference material. Andy
  6. After the Caterham took me over a year, which even by my standards is a glacial pace I thought I'd plump for something quick and easy. The Aoshima is that basic and within 5 or so minutes I already had a mock up. However that's were the joy ended as I quickly realised that the fit and finish of this kit can be described as vague at the best. Also there's also going to be some tricky masking around the door handles and rear quarter vents. So while I procrastinate about that I took a remarkably similar approach to @chrisrope and started with the seats which suffer with the perennial problem of a hollow back despite their blatant visibility from the rear of the finishedmodel. Spookily Chris and I also came to the same resolution (I'm sure they say something about great minds šŸ˜…šŸ¤£). Also whilst Googling for interior colour options I came across a photo were one off the rear head rests was raised, which I've replicated as I thought it would look interesting, however my OCD is really struggling with this. Thanks for stopping by on my forth Britmodeller build- Andy
  7. Ahoy once more. Finally posting up shots of this diorama I put together...flipping heck, it was back in April šŸ˜®. Anyway, got a request from my aunt about whether any Thunderbird 2 models existed, as it was my uncle's favourite. By chance I'd spotted the reboxed Aoshima offerings around October '21, and ended up building the Mole for my brother (don't think I've actually posted images of that one yet, may have to get hold of it for some pics), so I knew one was around. Snapped it up, and also got a display case for it. This was my first real attempt at putting an aircraft model in flight, and I'd later replicate the technique for my MiG-29 display (with the same style of case). Took a considerable bit of doing and a lot of trial and error to get it to sit where and how I wanted. Since its about to be wrapped up soon as a Christmas present, decided to get pictures before it leaves my possession. Overall, not a bad build. Needed a bit of modification for flight mode, notably adding in scratchbuilt landing feet pads to more resemble the original version. If memory serves I used all the decals except for those on the engine cowlings. Paint scheme was a combo mix of Tamiya Yellow and Flat Green. Minor weathering effects applied, with just a bit of a panel line wash and a small amount of oil fading at the top of the pod. The base took a lot more tinkering to get looking right. Initially brush-painted every individual field in, then went over with an airbrush to try tidying things. Adding the trees, the teeny tiny little vehicles (there's a FAB1 down there too), and the little town, as well as the mast, to give the sense TB2 is high above. The kit comes with a TB4 and excavator. Obviously they wouldn't fit into the planned scene, so I came up with making them their own mini scenes. Was something different from what I was used to, and helped me try some new things On with the pictures. Thank you as always for looking Gaz
  8. Having found the other kit to be missing a part, it's replacement is still sealed in the bag ! Progress before I called it a night Cheers Pat
  9. Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.
  10. Hi all Straight onto the next one! I used to own a MK4 Prelude. Loved that car. After seeing John's Prelude build it got me thinking was there a model of the MK4 and there was! Have to admit the first one I managed to win on eBay was this one which is exactly what my car looked like. Now I know the tyres were missing but unfortunately so were a couple more bits and the model itself was not in very good condition. So when I saw the Aoshima version come up I snapped it up! Good thing about that is that the model is in excellent condition and with tyres! šŸ™‚. It also has the boot spoiler that my Prelude had but which isn't part of the revell kit so that was a welcome bonus. It also gives me a spare body ton practice on. Two reasons. One I could not find a spray can to match the Brittany blue green colour but I did find the following: Which hopefully can give me the right colour. Second reason is I bought these to replicate my number plate And if you look at the rear of the model And compare it with a UK car You can see that the number plate area is too tall and not wide enough so I need to do something like this Widen it to the red lines and lower it to the blue. Surgery is required! Thus the good thing about having a spare body to practice on! šŸ˜‰ Question : what can I use to fill the gaps? I do have some putty but trying to sand it down and make it straight in such an awkward area is going to be tricky... So until I solve that problem I'll start on the colour testing. Sorry about the essay! Thanks for looking. Nick
  11. Aoshima is working on a 1/144th Kawasaki C-2 kit - ref. AIRCRAFT No.3 Source: https://hobby.dengeki.com/event/638007/ Source: https://tieba.baidu.com/p/5896512964 V.P.
  12. Dear Colleagues The Royal Navy only called upon nature to inspire the naming of warships with their Flower class corvettes, but for the Japanese all their destroyers were named after poetic natural images. In this case Hatsuharu apparently means 'early spring'. Unusually, the 1931 design genuinely tried to fit the treaty restriction of a sub-2000 t weight (which they later abandoned) and the ship was launched in 1933. However, a drastic redesign was needed in 1935 due to top heavy problems with a super-firing B turret arrangement (later moved to the stern). Hatsuharu lasted until 1944 when sunk by bombing in the Philippines in November 1944. The Aoshima kit has a lovely hull and is one of their better ship kits. As is my way I have added a lot of photo etch apart from the stuff that came with the ship and used brass rods for the masts. Hope you like it Andrew
  13. Here are the compelted phtoos of the brand new Aoshima 1:48 scale Thunderbird 4. I ordered this direct from Hobby Link Japan late last year and it arrived in January. I didn't do a WIP thread for this but its a nice kit without any major faults. The kit comes with a choice of underside plastes to allow you to add wheels and a the kit includes a small electric motor that can be used to turn this into a toy. It also comes with a light bulb to put in the lighting panel at the front, but I replaced this with 2 Surface Mount LEDs. You also get a selection of tools that can be fitted to the front, including the rams that are used to free the trapped Martian Probe capsule in "Day of Disaster". There are also 3 torpedoes and the two central tubes have springs that can be used to fire them. The shape is excellent, much better then the old Bandai kit, my only complaints being the scaling of the Gordon figure and the way the thruster tubes are attached to the main body. I also think they are too long (they are the red tubes st the rear). The kit somes with a nice base and even some lichen to stick to the base. I just painted the base brown and dry-brushed some grey over the rocks. The kit provides decals for the red stripes, but I masked and painted them. I had troubel with the decals as they were VERY delicate and the "Thunderbird 4" decals on the sides and rear rolled up on me during application never to be usable again, so I had print my own using th etemplate I'd created previsouly for the Bandai kit. So here are the photos And now for a couple with the Bandai kit In this one you can really see how bad the shape around the cockpit is on the Bandai kit!
  14. Hi all, calling this build done; it was a blast down memory lane, as I am sure it was for quite a few of you over 50 years. I painted the Fireflash in Tamiya LP6 Pure blue and Mr Color Super Metallic's super iron 2 with 30 drops of LP-6 to give me a bluish tinge to the silver. My plan was to mount the plane on fibre optic strands that had been epoxied into the tops of each Elevator car. 1.8mm strand was stiff enough to hold up the plane, I did not glue them into the fuselage so that I can remove the Fireflash for easy transport. I super glued the cars to the base. Overall I am delighted how this kit came out and I would like to thank everyone for their support and comments. Stay tuned for Thunderbird 2 coming soon!
  15. Hi all, I thought I would tackle the tiny Elevator cars as a gentle intro for this build. Everything so far has been a super nice fit. I masked and airbrushed the top of the cars in black and then hand painted the rest. The decals are superb quality; they went down easy enough on the cars. Once weathered I started on the Fireflash aircraft, the parts so far have just fell together, no fit issues so far. Car number 3 will be used later in the build when I start on TB2.
  16. Hi Mods Could you please remove this post. Manage to post it twice! Thanks Nick Hi all Straight onto the next one! I used to own a MK4 Prelude. Loved that car. After seeing John's Prelude build it got me thinking was there a model of the MK4 and there was! Have to admit the first one I managed to win on eBay was this one which is exactly what my car looked like. Now I know the tyres were missing but unfortunately so were a couple more bits and the model itself was not in very good condition. So when I saw the Aoshima version come up I snapped it up! Good thing about that is that the model is in excellent condition and with tyres! šŸ™‚. It also has the boot spoiler that my Prelude had but which isn't part of the revell kit so that was a welcome bonus. It also gives me a spare body ton practice on. Two reasons. One I could not find a spray can to match the Brittany blue green colour but I did find the following: Which hopefully can give me the right colour. Second reason is I bought these to replicate my number plate And if you look at the rear of the model And compare it with a UK car You can see that the number plate area is too tall and not wide enough so I need to do something like this Widen it to the red lines and lower it to the blue. Surgery is required! Thus the good thing about having a spare body to practice on! šŸ˜‰ Question : what can I use to fill the gaps? I do have some putty but trying to sand it down and make it straight in such an awkward area is going to be tricky... So until I solve that problem I'll start on the colour testing. Sorry about the essay! Thanks for looking. Nick
  17. Hi all calling this all finished, the base is a cake board cut down slightly and covered in cork sheet, the dead trees are from an aquatic eBay store that's been painted with 502 oils and the sandy earth was a layer of war gaming sand and Flory pigments, all held in place with Hataka orange top semi matt clear lacquer. The interceptor car is an out of the box build, painted in Mr Hobby Color dark iron 214. This colour gave the car a nice flat sun bleached effect. I had a lot of fun building this diorama, I hope you like the final reveal guys.
  18. Hi all, I intend to combine all of these kits to produce a diorama featuring some of the main characters and vehicles in Mad Max 2. I will be converting the Wallis Military Gyrocopter into the one seen in the movie, I will be swapping out the engine and using the one from the VW Beetle and I will have to scratch build the twin tail fin assembly. I was lucky to find the resin figures for sale on eBay, they were the last of a limited number produced, no idea by who, but they are nicely cast and look pretty accurate. To complement the figures I bought the kit with the dog, as I wanted to have Max's dog in the diorama. The Beetle will be used in a future build no doubt. It should make an interesting diorama I think with all of these vehicles and figures combined into it. Today I jumped into the build of the Gyrocopter engine conversion, my research found that the engine was from a VW Beetle, the Little Nellie and military version show a flat four 2 stroke engine, I cut the gearbox casing off the Beetle engine and using the mounting points from the 2 stroke kit engine. I found it fairly easy to produce a convincing fitment. However I did have to turn the cylinder barrels and heads around because they lay in a tray and I had to leave that part off to give a more accurate look. I got lucky with the exhaust pipes, they were made up from a spare car exhaust I had in my spares box. For the twin tail fins I used some parts for mounting the Little Nellie weapon pylons and traced around the original rudder to get accurate looking tail fins. I don't think they were used as rudders, just stabilisers, so I fitted them to the made up cross bracing, I also made a small jockey wheel just under the rear frame centre rail. I have limited frame grabs of the movie Gyrocopter, so I am only going for a fair representation of it. That's all for now folks.
  19. The decision has been made. There are some optional parts that came with the kit, so this should be a fun one to play with. Looking forward to this.
  20. Hello Few pictures of my newest project. Enjoy. Mike
  21. Hi everyone, First post for me here with a few pictures of my latest build, the '85 San Remo winning Audi Quattro S1. Beemax kit with detail-up set (PE parts, harness, antenna, smoking decals) and the KMP wheel set including the typical wheel fans from the eighties. My favorite GrB monster. I hope you like it too ! PS: I deliberately installed the fan only on one side so I can enjoy the view with or without, according to my mood.
  22. Hi All, Yet another shelf sitter that has been resurrected... I have had this for more than 30 years, I'm sure. I happened to be in our local Antics store, and saw the self-same kit in a new boxing, but definitely the same kit... Anyway, here we are so far... Box top: Not a bad looking bike for it's day. The engine: This was all satin-chromed by Aoshima and looked a bit 'toy-like'. So, I stripped it using caustic soda, primed it with my home-brew grey primer before painting it with Tamiya XF16. It didn't come out too bad, looks a lot more like aluminium now. There is a little breather pipe on the back of the engine, at least that's what I think it is. However, it had gone AWOL. so I had to fabricate a replacement with 3/32nd evergreen styrene tube with a 3/64th rod glued into the end to locate it into the cylinder block. After a bit of aluminium, it looked the part. It looks a bit flat at the moment, but I'll give a bit of a wash to bring out the details. Probably a mix of black and brown enamels, just to pop out the detail... This where we are at the present. The cylinder head and spark-plugs have been added, and then a bespoke ignition lead for each plug. There was nothing in the instructions about these, so I fabricated and CA'd them to the pins on the plugs. More soon. Thanks for looking, Alan.
  23. Evening all, My build of the London Black Cab has finished and the images submitted for judging. Here it is for the viewing pleasure of my fellow Britmodellers. Feel free to comment as you see fit. Trying to improve my photographs so fingers crossed they're better than previous ones. It was a fast build and learned a lot of good lessons along the way. It was built using only the kit and sprues in the box + a set of VIP Rims. Its the first time i have done a roof chop and certainly something i would like to do again given the right subject. All the photos are available in the Google photos album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bLSeaCMKymmCvPMZ9 The WIP is here: Photos are below: I hope you like it, cheers for looking. Coops Coops
  24. This is Aoshima's curbside 1:24 MG B, as reboxed in the past by Airfix which is the one I had. I think Revell have also offered this kit, and Aoshima have recently re-issued it again. I started this sometime in 2009, but it wasn't completed until the summer of 2010, due to the ongoing problem of too many projects at once, and my work desk being an utter tip at that time. This one was built entirely out of the box, except for BMF being used for the chrome trims along the flanks and for the windscreen frame (the screen, quarterlights and frame was a one piece clear molding). I think I may have used an aluminium effect BMF so that the screen frame wasn't too bright, as the real thing is polished alloy, rather than chrome. It comes with options for hood up, hood down, half tonneau or rear tonneau only. My kit came with the parts for the rubber bumper version too. However, Aoshima's recent releases are boxed as different chrome bumper & rubber bumper ones - whilst the rubber bumper release includes the chrome bumper parts, the chrome bumper one doesn't include the rubber bumpers or the half tonneau which are all on the same mini sprue. Aside from box art, the decals are also slightly different to reflect the model year (think it's basically the numberplates), and also the rubber bumper version now includes a small sprue with a set of Rostyle steel wheels, which are more appropriate for the rubber bumper cars than the wires. However, what the Airfix or Aoshima instructions don't tell you is that the ride height between the two is different as the rubber bumper cars were jacked up for compliance with US Federal regs (to do with headlamp and / or bumper heights). However, the ride height on the model can be adjusted for either without any modifications to the parts - details below: Floorpan / chassis in the rubber bumper ride height position, slotted in as per the instructions. Chrome bumper ride height position - note that the floorpan / chassis has been slotted in higher up inside the body and is now resting above the tabs that it is supposed to clip into. There didn't seem to be any affect on the fit of the interior tub, but the ride height difference was noticable.
  25. So here we go, this is my interpretation of Aoshima's excellent Lamborghini Countach LP400. I've always preferred the original Countach before it sprouted wings, wheel arches, massive tyres etc., so this one appealed straight away. It was a bit daunting when I opened the box, but in truth this is a very well engineered kit with very few issues. It's probably the best kit I've built so far, and I have to admit that the end result, being completely out of the box, is 90% down to Aoshima with only a small input from me. I'll start by apologising in advance if you feel there are too many photos (and I will admit that this post is very photo heavy), but the Countach is a very striking and photogenic car. The build thread is here if anyone wants to see how it came together. First up, the engine bay, which to my eyes looks very good even though it's one of those where you only really build the bits you can see, Still pretty effective though: Then it's onto the interior. the doors can be placed in the closed or open positions by means of removing them and positioning the hinge arm into one of two positions in the A-pillar - simple but effective. This also has the advantage that for photography you can remove the door completely giving an unusually clear view of the interior of the car: It's never the easiest thing to show the underside, particularly of a low slung sports car, but hopefully the mirror shots will give an rough idea. The parts underneath are all separate, with the coil springs (all six of them), being particularly effective at sucking time. And you can't even see them in these shots... And now it's time for the walkaround the car which I usually put in these RFIs. The trouble is that as opening the doors makes such a difference to the look of the car, I'm afraid there are in effect two walkarounds, hence lots of photos. First up, with everything closed. I mention at the end of the build thread about the doors not quite fitting perfectly. the truth is that they sit quite loosely and adding the door cards and chassis seems to have ever so slightly flattened the shape - they still fit in the door gap but now sit a little proud at the top. After that little lot, here's some (not as many) of it with the doors open. Those metal pins look good, but the boot one is a bit of a pain as it has a penchant for diving into the engine bay when you're trying to prop up the engine cover. Even so, it's still a good idea and looks much better than my usual method of supporting a bonnet (i.e. putting a cocktail stick in there). If you made it this far, thanks for looking in. All comments and constructive criticism welcome, I'm improving but still a fair way from getting a 10/10 model.
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