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  1. What airbrush cleaner should I use for Alclad Grey Primer and Micro Filler, the Alclad airbrush cleaner stuff is crazy expensine for such a small bottle. Can I use Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol (99%)? What do you guys use?
  2. Hello peeps of BM. Here's my 1/48 Revell Monogram F-105F Thunderchief, done as a pre-Vietnam War jet, with the 8th TFS, 49th TFW based at Spangdahlem AFB in Germany. This is the fourth Spangdahlem based model I've done so far, and the first one from the 49th TFW. Painted with Alclad flat aluminium, decals from Fowler Aviation and some Superscale. Seats from True Details. Fueltanks will be added later on. Thanks for watching and I hope you like it.
  3. Hi Guys Thought you might like a quick comparison from a new user of these two finishes. I'm working up to a Lightning F2 and want a good metallic finish. Previously tried acrylic silvers are not up to the job IMHO. SO, make up 2 x 1/72 P51s (one Airfix and the other Tamiya) and, after much YouTube and BM time, buy AK True Metal and Alclad. As well as YouTube there's a good link here to Gekko_1 post on AK http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970584-trumpeter-lightning-f6/?p=1821912 Both prepared with Vallejo grey primer applied by airbrush. What do you think guys? AK brushed (and really dragged the brush) and Alclad airbrushed. Left hand = Airfix, Alclad Right hand = Tamiya AK True Metal. Airfix pre-shaded, Tamiya not - you can tell, can't you. The panel lines stand out much better on the Airfix. The Alclad gives a polished metal finish (and smells pretty harsh - it's a varnish). Close up: I know there's some pooling on here but it's not too bad from far away! I blame inexperience and my first airbrush which I used on the wings (cheap eBay set). Now I have an H&B Evolution and used it on the fuselage - much better. I'll get even better now I've had some practice. The AK wax smells, er, like wax (floor type) and is quite pleasant. You'll have seen in the YouTube reviews that a very little goes a long way - as you'd expect with a wax product you need to brush this out but it covers A LOT. I think a tube is going to last for ages. The finish depends on how much you polish it. This is after a rough going over with a cotton bud. Love the detail on the Tamiya although the Airfix is good too. There you have it then. Not a skilled modeller and I must admit I thought I liked the AK better until I saw these photos. To me the finish is more natural. You can polish to higher glosses apparently and I'll be watching Richard/Gekko_1's post with interest!!
  4. Hi Folks, I decided to have a go at Alclad so I chose a cheap kit which I wouldn't regret ruining...Hence the Revell P-51D, it's a right dog of a kit Didn't photograph the underside as massive gaps I couldn't be bothered to fill, spent more time on the cockpit than I should really. Quite pleased with the Alclad on first inspection but I must have had something noxious on my fingers(possibly meths) so got a few dodgy patches where I'd handled it. Happy with my painted invasion stripes though. If you squint a little and dim the lights it's got the vague shape of a Mustang Even had some stress marks on the plastic that the paint wouldn't cover. Glad I've got the new Airfix offering in the stash !!
  5. Guys, I am new to this paint Alclad II and have been having issue with their high shine finishes. I have used their black gloss base on plastic spoons to test the colour but somehow I could not get that shiny surface. Lots of spots surfaced up too. I have viewed the videos online and read about it. I think I have followed what I was supposed to do.. light mist ... etc... Appreciate if you guys could share some guidance on how to use this paint. I really want that shiny finish this paint is capable of. At the moment I am thinking it could be static or dust or bad surface prep.... The second last photo was probably overspraying the paint... Thanks a lot,
  6. I'm calling this one done, mainly due to being sick of having to patch the Alclad polished aluminium. Why that particular shade causes so many problems is a bit of a mystery. Apart from the Alclad this was a fun kit, only minor issue being the fillet to cover the space for the second seat which needed a little filling, and me putting the nose on upside down at first Build thread is available here Peter
  7. I've been given a P51D as a birthday present and this gives me the opportunity to have a crack at a metal finish - something I've fancy trying of a while. I see there is lots of helpful advice on using Alclad on here which is great as I intend to get some, but my question is more, 'what shade'? Aluminium High Shine Finish, Regular Shine Finish, dark aluminium, dull aluminium... Ugh, is there not one just called 'Mustang'? I jest of course but any help from someone who uses this stuff would be appreciated! Thanks
  8. Morning all, Just finished up my Tamiya 1/32 Mustang taken about a month. Extras are Barracuda, Eduard, HGW, Leading Edge decals, finished in Alclad... I recently made the Airfix 1/72 Mustang with the leading Edge decals and liked it so much I felt compelled to make another in 1/32 Thanks for looking and following the build A ship next up! Guy Build thread here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234953114-132-tamiya-mustang-rcaf/ Airfix 1/72 Mustang here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234952128-airfix-172-mustang-new-tool/
  9. Kit – Academy 1:48. Paint – Alclad lacquers, Humbrol & Xtracolour enamels, Tamiya acrylics. Decals – Aeromaster 48-278 ‘Sabres over Korea III’ Extras – None. North American F-86F-30 Sabre ‘Nina V’ Assigned to Col. Robert Baldwin CO, 51st Fighter Interceptor Group K-13 (Suwon AB) South Korea Summer 1953. Not my best by a long way, but now I have a Sabre in the cabinet which is something that I’ve wanted for a l-o-n-g time. As ever please feel free to comment, ask questions or criticise constructively and thanks for taking the time to look. Ian
  10. Hi All, Third post for tonight I present to you a mirror finish English Electric Lightning belonging to the Royal Saudi Airforce. This was a Eduard Limited Edition Boxing of the Airfix kit, which is an absolutely superb kit with some lovely resin and photoetch in there as well. To get the finish I polished the bare plastic of the kit down to 12,000 grit with micromesh until the plastic itself was extremely glossy. I then primed the bare plastic with Tamiya rattle can gloss black and shot Alclad polished aluminium over the black base coat. The intake ring is sprayed with Alclad Chrome. Unfortunately the clear of the decals showed up on the finish, but I was so happy with the mirror like finish I didn't let this bother me too much. I should have removed the carrier film from around the decals. I also could not do a panel line wash on the finish, as it would just bead up on the surface. All comments welcome. Cheers, Arthur.
  11. Hi, Another build.. This kit is a real beauty.. Just clicks together making it ideal for an Alclad finish Thanks for looking Guy
  12. Folks, Just a quick question more for curiosity's sake and just so that I don't screw up a paint job but why can't I use a gloss black lacquer (say, Tamiya's TS-14) as a base coat/under coat for Alclad's "polished aluminum" paint? Everything I've seen says you should use an acrylic but what happens if I use a lacquer based paint? My general method has been Tamiya lacquer primer (decanted from the rattle can), then the TS-14 (again decanted) and then Alclad. Hopefully this odd question doesn't perturb anyone Just looking for some insight that's all. Cheers, Dave
  13. I think I have made an important discovery about the use of Alclad. I don't think this has been commented on before as I did do a quick, but not exhaustive, search. I have been using various colours of Alclad recently and had a lot of problems with Tamiya masking tape pulling the Alclad off when demasking. There is also a related thread here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234926778-whats-the-best-thing-to-seal-alclad-before-masking/?hl=alclad What I have found is that Alclad, although touch drying almost instantly, needs an extended cure period to fully harden up, I think it is at least several days, possibly a week to be fully bullet proof against masking and masking tape removal. Once cured like this it seems to be a very adherent and robust finish. I hope other Alclad users find this information of some use and manage to avoid some of my disasters. Nigel
  14. Righto, seen so many on here wax lyrical about the stuff it's time I got on board. However, I am not made of money so want to start on a smallish scale. What colours would you say are essential to get me started? I will be mainly using them on exhausts both jet and combustion (priority in current project) but also metal bits such as undercarriage, antennae etc and sponging paint chips. I have a BMF project way down the line but can cross that bridge when I come to it. Also, to save replacing current materials, I take it I can prime with Halfords or Mr Surfacer and apply Vallejo Satin and Matt glosses as well as Klear over the top. I also use all acrylic paint - I think I read somewhere that as long as you don't douse it you can overspray acrylics ok. Smells nice too apparently but guess a mask is in order? Any other tips gratefully received Thanks in advance
  15. this is the Hasegawa 1/48 kit. A nice kit but no ordinance except tip tanks, which is a cheap shot. extras include Aires burner, wheel bays (plus a bit of extra plumbing), and pit (bit of a waste but never mind) , metal pitot, eduard aim 9b's, and resin tanks and pylons and pilot. most of this is foiled but the back bit and tanks are Alclads, the rest Xtracrylic. homebrew tail art decal. I have never done an in-flight model so thought I would go the whole hog and try one with gear in transit too, which hasn't come out too bad. This meant having to open up the suction doors as well which I didn't enjoy and are only a qualified success. I tried to shop out the stand (home made too) as it is distracting, as is the background I'm afraid. DSC02493 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02486 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02491 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02552 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02544 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02500 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02480 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02515 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02499 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC02563 by omgpainful, on Flickr All pics are live I think which will go to my Flikr where there are other pics of other bits and bobs plus the WIP pics too. Right clicking the pic in flikr gives the option to view full size if you wish. Have noticed the ifr probe needs re-seating (its not glued ) which will be done.
  16. Hi all, I have always wanted to use Alclad paints but have just been a bit afraid, plus it's not the easiest to get here (Oz) without ordering it on-line. Will be with luck finally getting a replacement for the old beast of a compressor, can't stand the weezing any more! After seeing all the amazing results with using Alclad I think I finally have to give it a go, plus have found somebody local (in Sydney) who stocks them. Up to now I have been using the Master Modeller Metallics, which arn't too bad. So am after any tricks, tips, hints and people have for using this paint (even links to good web docs would be great). thanks Rich
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