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  1. I'll be up front: I don't think this will be my best build, and that's OK. It started as a father/son build with my 6-year-old until I discovered the terrible fit of the fuselage: When I held the tail and the tip of the nose together, the two halves of the fuselage bowed so badly that there was about a 1/8" gap in the seam in the middle (above the wings)!! No Kidding!!! I had a hard time holding it together just dry-fitting it and I wasn't even sure if I'd be able to glue it. At that point, my son decided he was more interested in starting his 1/48 Bf-109. I decided it would be a
  2. will2017

    Paint Racks

    I'm looking for a vertical paint rack that will hold a variety of paint pots - Humbrol tins, Alclad (small / large), Xtracrylix As I appreciate budget suggestions, is there a vertical paint rack that I can get that will accommodate all of these? Currently they're all in a shoebox and I need the bench-space. Thanks.
  3. Hi all - Here's my latest - Tamiya's P-51D in 1/48 - An enjoyable build although as ever, Tamiya's decals put up quite a fight. The kit is old but still top quality - it goes together very nicely - My one issue is the way the canopy is attached - with no framing where it meets the plastic. I added scratch built details to the wheel bays, used a Eduard PE cockpit interior with additional parts - also Eduard resin wheels. Painted in Alclad and Tamiya arylics - weathered with oils, enamel washes and pigments.
  4. Hello folks - now this: With all the buzz about that new P51 kit from eduard, I thought I’d pop this one from the stash and get this oldie but still a goodie made. After my last 2 builds being nmf, I thought I’d do one more - hopefully using the lessons learned and expanding my alclad chops a little further. Also going a scale bigger to 1/48 - more plastic making more fun I hope. It will be nice doing a larger model after so many 1/72s - detailing those smaller models can be hard on the eyes..! (Maybe there’s a part of me that wants this built so I can justif
  5. My other builds have got me a bit bogged down as one is a resin that that nothing fits and has a surface like the moon and t'other needs a lot of sanding and filling, so I decided to dust this off and get her into the paint shop asap to try out my various Alcalds that I've had for forever but was inspired by how well they work as shown here. The kit was an Amazon freebie back in January for being a vine reviewer that I did some prep on four weeks ago and promptly forgot so a little timeshifting... Note one piece body/wings, lovely. Canopy
  6. Good evening folks - so I have this: After nutting out how to use Alclad paints on my last build, (the P-47) I’m going on with another nmf with this one - this has been sitting in the stash for quite a while and now is the time. I love the vampire- I first saw it as a young boy at an air show in Ireland scorching across the sky. I remember thinking how jealous I was of the pilot - he was clearly having so much fun. That was an Irish Air Force one but this will be a vamp of my adopted home - the RNZAF. At our local Air Force museum they had this hanging o
  7. A bit of fun since I have a surplus of red stars.
  8. Hi chaps, I'm working on my 1970's Kenner C3-P0 and planning to paint it using Alclad II Gold, however I'm struggling with what undercoat to use. Question: Has anyone used Halfords Gloss black as an undercoat for Alclad II ?? I've been looking and reading various tips and tricks but I thought I would ask to. The Gold needs a gloss black undercoat. I prime my models using Halfords standard car body grey primer - an acrylic that needs cellulose thinners to clean up and I can over paint this with Humbrol Enamels as I've been doing for years without issue.
  9. A quickie to test Alclad, fourth finish of the year. Changed the photosetup a little and started futzing about with softboxes , looks a bit better...As is my current thing, everything is brand new, shiny and very pilotless. The kit is simple and has a mixture of good details and strange quirks as you'd expect for a £7 kit, for those interested there's an RFI here. Onto the pix:
  10. We join this work in progress... in progress (I started before joining BM). Last year I did a Hasagawa F-104 from about 1986 (ugh, terrible kit) and used a decal set from Belcher Bits to make it a gray/green camo, low viz CF-104. In the course of doing that, I decided I really liked the early NMF CF-104s and the decal set included decals from that era. So I bought this kit. For the most part I've had good experiences with Hasagawa kits. This one.... isn't quite one of them so far. The build has stalled out; I'd hoped it would be an easy build, maybe a couple of weeks, but it'
  11. james424

    Removing Alclad

    Hi all, So, I've ventured in to the world of Alclad... And royally cocked it up! I don't want to sand everything back as I'll lose all the panel lines and rivet details, but don't know how to strip the Alclad away. Anyone got any sneaky tips and tricks??? Cheers, James.
  12. A couple of years ago, after I started airbrushing, I picked up a few Alclad 2 metallic paints. They took a bit of trial and error to get used to, and seemed to need careful surface preparation, but the results looked nice. However, they need good ventilation - I normally use an extractor hood, but advice is to wear a decent facemask as well. I also saw advice to be especially thorough in cleaning your airbrush after use. Then a few months ago I was at a show and saw Vallejo's Metal Colour acrylic range being demonstrated. They looked good, so I bought a couple and tried them out.
  13. Hi guys, I am intending to use Alclad for an NMF paint and heard that it requires a coat of some kind of micro filler first and then good sanding down of it. Can someone help me out which tools are best for this and how to it right? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Michael
  14. Hi all. My most recent project has come to an end. Minicrafts little 737 kit is rather simple, but also a joy to build. Added antennas, and beacon lights. Decals are from Max decals. Paint from Xtracolor (Maersk blue) Humbrol ("Boeing grey", corroguard, nose) and Alclad for leading edges of wings and vertical/horizontonal stabilisors. Here goes: Cheers Robin
  15. Hello and thanks for your interest, this is my 1/72 Hasegawa B-24J, representing "The Shack" of 458th Bomb Group, 754th Squadron. The model was built using aftermarket parts from Eduard, CMK, Aires, True Details, Scale Aircraft Conversions and Decals from Sky Models Italy. This beast fought me for over 18 months. Most work went into the paint job. It was painted with Alclad lacquers, which require a perfectly smooth surface preparation. Due to the massive weight (90g) I chose to use metal landing gear from Scale Aircraft Conversions. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes
  16. Hey Folks, just a quick question, which one of these Primer is in your opinion the best one? Alclad: http://www.ebay.de/itm/GP-7-46-100ml-Alclad-2-Grundierung-schwarz-grau-weis-zur-Auswahl-/351115725361?var=&hash=item51c020ca31:m:mR_gNQS_JC7RmagWcugvbsw or Ultimate: http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xultimate+primer.TRS0&_nkw=ultimate+primer&_sacat=0 Is this stuff good for applying decals: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Microscale-Micro-Set-Micro-Sol-setting-solution-for-decals-transfers-Free-Post/281710351170?_trksid=p2045573.c
  17. Hi folks, I don't know about anyone else, but one of the things I really LOVE about modelling is putting hours and hours into making a project look the best it can be, then finding new and creative ways to ruin it in seconds. I've been preparing Monogram's gigantic 1/48 B-29 for a high gloss Alclad base. Here was the plan: Alclad Grey primer base spray coat of Halfords Satin Black coat of Alclad Honey Primer or Klear Gloss acrylic black finish coat of Klear Alclad high gloss paint finish. I've used this technique for all my previous high gloss finishes which have been spectacularly succes
  18. Good morning! I picked up this kit from Bruntingthorpe on Sunday along with a 1:48 Airfix Lightning. I will be quite honest- this kit is a mixed blessing: Pros: -Great surface detail -Resin exhaust cans and seats -An Eduard photoetch fret included (this contains the instrument panel, belts and various aerials -A large decal sheet (which was barely used, decals sourced from the spares box for my alternative scheme) -Relatively straightforward to build and paint -Positionable flaps Cons: -Almost nothing in the way of guides to tell you where you should place the various parts (cockpit
  19. Anyone remember this one from the Lightning GB? http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968483-early-airfix-48th-lightnings/ Poor thing has been lingering at one corner of the bench while other projects were completed but a determination to finish off various stalled models this year seen her get some attention lately. Been working on the seat that comes with the Cutting Edge cockpit set. Some base coats of Humbrol enamels got it to here; Then plenty dry brushing and detail painting, along with the addition of fuse wire handles got this; Once this is installed it'll be
  20. My wife got me P-47, in the pipeline there are also mustang and mig-21. All require part- or all- natural metal finish. I often see good models made this way. I wonder, how to make them this good. Standard paints allow to apply camo->acrylic clear gloss->decals->gloss again->oil/enamel pinwash and other oils etc. I will probably use alclads II since the choice of colours is quite big and I know the quality is good. There are some questions I'd like to ask. 1. Should I coat alclad with clear paint (clear gloss I assume)? how to apply decals? Directly onto alclad? Should I secure d
  21. Bought at Telford to try out my Alclad technique: White aluminium over endlessly micromeshed Alclad grey primer. Contrast panels in flat aluminium and pod tips in steel. Finished last week but was so rapid in build (4 days), that I totally forgot to post RFI...those gamma rays are beginning to get to us professor Frink! WIP here. For some reason, I get the urge to yell "Piiiigs in Space!!" when I see this. Was pleased with my barren Martian landscape. Short and sweet, got a whole pile of Bandai Yamato ships and a wacky Cosmostrator to do as well. Pegasus kit was good with no
  22. Hi all, Now that My Heinkel is finished I've decided to make a start on something else from the stash. It's a 1/48 F-86F Sabre by Academy. in a natural metal finish (Uh oh!). I've decided to use this as a guinea pig to practice metal finishes using Alclad prior to building my EE Lightning. So any hints, tips, or suggestions about the NMF or Alclad in general will be gladly welcomed. I bought this at a reduced price along with about a third of my stash at a local 'clearance shop' I think they had bought a job lot of kits from MZ when it closed down. I happenend to be in with SWMBO who was lo
  23. Kit - Tamiya Paint - Alclad lacquers, Tamiya acrylics Decals - Aeromaster 48-083 Extras - Eduard setbelts, 75 gallon droptank from Tamiya P-51, 1000lb bombs from Academy P-38 Republic P-47D-20 Thnderbolt Assigned to Col. Gil Wymond 65th FS, 57th FG Italy 1944 Well, I have mentioned here previously that I usually build/finish a project at glacier-like speed and here's the proof, started last winter (here in NZ), and finished as we approach the middle of our summer. Hun Hunter came back to the bench because I scr*w*d-up a Trumpeter Seahawk by losing the (already painted) IP. !!
  24. Hi! I am curious about Alclad II, want to try it out out for myself! Planned to paint a couple of P-51s and P-47s in various scales but I am mostly moving towards bigger objects ((1/32) and wondered what a basic set of various colours would be? I am mainly thinking of what I would "need" for the panel around the exhaust stacks on a P-51, the inner, puttied and painted wings (on a NMF a/c) and then a couple of good variations for "normal" aluminium-panels - some used, some new/switched out etc. Not necessarily the most correct ones but which ones would look good together in scale and give
  25. I have a build to do which has a mix of NMF and white finishes. Unfortunately there is no cheatline, to demark the separations between the white and NMF finishes, so thought I would ask in what order others do their painting. Normally, I would use Tamiya's grey primer base for the whole model; however, the NMF will be in Alclad and using their black as a primer. I think the white would still have the grey primer but not certain on this. My queries are: - is there an order of priming and painting mixes of media? i.e. alclad primer and NMF first, then standard primer and white followed - o
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