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Another Airfix 707,and I wont probably be doing another one... The changes/corrections,I tried to make are explained in the VARIG RFI. This is the Airfix re-issue with very nice BOAC / Air India decals. To make sure,the blue front would not wrinkle,I cut those sections off the decals and airbrushed this area by using Humbrol Royal blue.It matches perfectly with the decals. The BOAC logos for the engines are quite iffy to place over the pylons but the rest of the decals work fine. Here I chose to make an inflight model and used an original Airfix stand for it. Cheers Alex
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The very old Airfix 707... Gives a lot of headache with its ill-fitting parts and somhow complicated parts layout. I tried my best to enhance the look by using a cockpit canopy from a Zvezda 737 to somehow correct the shape and modified the engines by creating seamless intakes,using plasticcard. Its better but not perfect. The painting was another marathon of masking,painting,demasking,masking... The Varig decals come from LPS and were good to use and fitted quite well. The windows are from Authentic Airliners. Cheers, Alex
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My build of the Airfix 1/12 Black Prince (02502-7): A straightforward OOB build that I enjoyed making very much. Dave
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Finally built a model instead of just buying them. An age since I last put a kit together so starting small. The kit is OOB with some minor scratch build to add detail to lights, muzzle brake, towing eyes and stowage. Splattered with VMC field drab, then brush highlighted before modulating and weathering with oils. Needs some tinkering to add aerials and tie downs https://hobbyphotohost.com/album?i=212 All comments and suggestions welcome
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Spitfire Mk.Vb 336th Fighter Squadron, 4th Fighter Group, USAAF at Debden August 1942 - in 1/48th scale. This is the Airfix Mk Vb kit with resin exhausts and PE seat belts. The markings are Montex masks - and great things they are too! The kit is no Tamiya, but it's a massive improvement on the previous MkV. I think Airfix have nailed the shape and form and I love all the extra bits and 2 versions of the windscreen. This model was a bit of an experiment really. As well as using paint masks for the markings for first time, I was testing Xtracrylix paints from Hannants. I think the colours are spot on (not that you can tell from the images) and better than Tamiya's Ocean Grey/Dark Green, but the paint seemed a bit 'plastic' and my normal chipping process ended up being more a case of 'peeling' more paint off then was desired. As you can see, the wing root is rather over done. I think I messed up on the starboard fuselage markings too - I think the MD and T should be the other way around. And there are other mistakes. Anyway, calling it done. Colour photos later in the thread...
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Now this is something I have just not gotten around to posting up in RFI, I built this a few months ago and the other day I broke the IFR probe, repairing it prompted me to post this finally. So, here is my Airfix Handley Page Victor B.2R (Blue Steel carrier). Weathered moderately, the V Force may have once been the pride of the RAF but I very much doubt they were paintshop shiny new every day. This model was difficult to photograph well due to the size, I hope I have done it well enough. I will replace that nose probe when I build my next Victor (beginning of 2020 hopefully!) as a very early example of the B2, before IFR probes were added. Information people have on Victors of this era would be much appreciated. Victor B2 as a Victor B1 takes off in the background. Someone with better Photoshop skills than me should attempt to Photoshop this into an airfield.... XL512 from one of the angles from which the Victor looks best in my opinion. From this angle, the aircraft has such a very powerful look. Truely one of the most beautiful aircraft ever built. Hopefully the next build will be of better quality, I have learnt a lot since I built this one.
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Hi - this is my Airfix Meteor I completed earlier this year - I found the kit ok - had some nice surface detail and comes with optional exposed engines and gun bays. The plastic was quite warped on my kit but nothing some clamps and super glue couldn’t sort out. I opted to display 1 of the engines with everything else buttoned up. The engine was detailed with some lead wires and other details. I added rivets, a resin seat from CMK and some photo etch from eduard- mostly in the cockpit. The figure is a plastic one from ICM.
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Celebrating the R.N.L.I.'s 200th Anniversary - Severn (A07280) and Shannon (A55015) Class Lifeboats.
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The Airfix 1/48 Lynx has been looking at me from the stash for some time. It has nearly been started on numerous occasions but something else snuck in ahead of it. I thought I would get the kit out and a few things fell in to place. I had suitable led lights to build in, had done a powered helicopter (Revell Apache) before, and I found a set of Hataka paints that cover AAC helicopters. So the build got started. There are some nice builds for guidance on here and for building mesh intake guards (the kit clear plastic ones are just not to the standard of the rest of the kit & I couldn’t find any etch parts on line) The kit comes with AAC options and as Wittisham is just up the road that made the scheme choice pretty easy. Plus I didn’t want tiger stripes I decided to go for XZ208 but back date her a bit to about 1992 So this is how she looks The underside does include two small plug in points for the power supplies That power lets her do this Main rotor is powered by a 10mm high 3v motor, and the tail by a tiny 6mm one You can’t see the lights well though. She has a tail light, tail anti collision beacon, under nose landing light, port & starboard red green lights and an under nose anti collision beacon So that’s the Lynx. It’s been fun & lots of people have been very helpful along the way. Thanks to everyone
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My other attempt for this GB will be the Airfix Fokker F-27 converted to a Laser Airborne Depth Sounding aircraft operated on behalf of the Royal Australian Navy. I will again be using a Hamilton Hobbies conversion as well as some replacement white metal under carriage legs Decals are from Southern Sky this time around From Wiki The Laser Airborne Depth Sounder (LADS) Flight was a unit of the Royal Australian Navy. Unlike the rest of the flying units of the RAN, it was not controlled by the Fleet Air Arm from HMAS Albatross (NSW), but instead fell under the operational control of the Australian Hydrographic Service at HMAS Cairns (QLD), providing a platform for the operation of the laser airborne depth sounder system. in 2009 the F-27 was replaced by a DHC Dash 8 which operated until 2019.
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There was a time when this was considered state of the art, or maybe it was just me when I built it circa 1983 or 1984. Back in 2015, I managed to grab two second hand, both the original 1977 boxing, and the late 1980s Aircraft of the Aces edition: Then I got yet another as part of a second-hand 2004 Airfix fighter collection, same as the Me 262 which I am also building. This will be the kit I am building. It is basically the Aces kit: The mold stamp tells no lies:
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This was not surprisingly the first ever P-39 kit I built, over 40 years ago. I will be building the most recent rebox (A01039). The first box-art (presumably by Roy Cross) is my own scan: Curiously, both the box-art and paint and decal guides from A01039 portray an earlier version with the integral .30 wing guns. So accurate is this mis-representation that the vertical staggering of the guns is shown as it was on the real thing. My preference is for the USAAF subject. Red Air Force P-39Qs often had the .50 under-wing guns removed, which would require significant extra work that I don't care for.
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Now here's a kit I never built in my youth. I first bought it in the late 1980s, but the kit I am building is a later boxing with better quality decals: A version of the Roy Cross artwork, which alas I never got a hold of: My two kits: First issued in 1971, time was when this was the only A-26 kit in town (to my knowledge), but now of course we have the Italeri kit, of which I have 3, including a B-26K Counter Invader. Should ICM get around to scaling down it's 1/48 family, then that will move the goalposts again. My initial thought was to build the Korean War A-26C "Monie", but research on this aircraft is giving me second thoughts. It's not that Korean War A-26s were painted gloss black instead of matt as per the instructions, nor that this aircraft had the upper remote controlled turret. No, it's that the under-wing stores were usually (always) two banks of 7 HVARs. 14 spare HVARs, all the exact same? Maybe when I've bought enough of the new Eduard P-51, which generously includes 10 per kit.
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I have a specific memory about the first time I built this kit in the early 1980s, about being on a half-day from school, and scraping together the money (IR£ 1.95) to buy my first ever Stuka. This series 3 kit was originally issued with eye-catching artwork by Ken McDonough, but by the time I bought it, the Artwork Police had caused most of the detail to be airbrushed out in true Stalinist fashion. This scan is my own: What I did not realise until a few years later was that this was an improved version of the series 2 kit (also my own scan): I am building the A03030 version boxing of the "full" tooling, which was the last to be released before the "new" 2015 tooling. It is very unlikely this 1970s tooling will ever see the light of day again, other than second-hand.
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I built this kit only last year as the JV 44 subject with "candy stripe" undersides, and it has already been built at least twice already in this GB. But it's too good to pass up. It's always a kit I've had a soft spot for, having first built it in the early 1980s. If Airfix doesn't have a new Dora in its plans, then a Vintage Classics release of this would be very much welcome. The original Ken McDonough artwork for the first kit I built, and the near-identical boxing that I built last year: This is in the stash from the early 1990s, and is the kit I'm building this time. The gloriously inaccurate painting guide. All parts present and correct. I will probably replace the drop tank with something better, but keep the pylon. Now for a detour. The Italeri kit is of a similar vintage, and was re-released earlier this year with a superb new decal sheet. Were it not for this re-release (of which I've bought two), I might not be building the Airfix kit now. The rear box cover doesn't even convey the full variety of these schemes, as some have different wing and fuselage camouflage colours. "RLM 84" is probably a later variant of RLM 76. Of these 6 schemes, B is out because I did it only last year. D and F both have a flat canopy, which the Airfix kit doesn't have, and scheme D also has a bomb. No problem, as the other 3 are all good options. Scheme A is the one I've chosen:
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All, this is my completed Airfix Vulcan, and self-designed/printed Blue Steel maintenance trolley. It's a model I won as part of the 2021 SMW Airfix Trophy. It has to be said, it's not without its issues. Part way into the build, I decided to add some detail to the bomb-bay, since there's effectively none in the base kit, and the real thing is incredibly complex. Then I couldn't not do the same with the wheel wells, crew access hatch, bomb-aimers position etc., etc. Some details are accurate, some "cartoon scale", some nothing more that added 'complexity' to give the impression that something's there. It's - retrospectively - based on a photo provided by a fellow BM'r of this aircraft in it's post "Blue Steel" configuration c.1973. I'm sure there are inaccuracies in terms of bomb-bay fit out, but as with the rest of the model "it is what it is"; there's a fair bit of modeller's licence here. When I started the model, the Eduard etch set wasn't available, and with hindsight I should have waited for it - it would have added something to the end result, but... Very happy, grateful, (not to mention surprised) to win a medal at SMW last week, and the David Hannant Memorial Prize (which I've already spent at Hannants on more photo-etch sets for future models). Partial build thread here: Thanks for looking folks! Airfix 1:72 Avro Vulcan B.2, 101 Squadron, RAF Waddington, c.1973. Notes on additional details: 101 Squadron insignia & u/c serials (26 Decals STS7219 via. Hannants) Various data plates (Mike Grant & Airscale decals) Brass tube bomb-bay pipework (Albion Alloys) Brass tube bomb-door rams (Albion Alloys) Brass tube main u/c rear door stays (Albion Alloys) Brass tube pitot heads (Albion Alloys) Brass tube engine vent ends - adjacent to jet pipes (Albion Alloys) Bomb cradle lift guides - flared brass tube (Albion Alloys) Steel wire nose door antenna (Albion Alloys) Brass tube nose wheel steering ram (Albion Alloys) Brass tube main u/c load sensor pistons (Albion Alloys) Flattened brass tube main u/c hydraulic scissors (Albion Alloys) Brass tube and Plasticard Outside Temperature Sensor (Albion Alloys) Aluminium tube crew hatch rams (Albion Alloys) Bomb-aimers window demisters - lead wire & brass tube (Albion Alloys) Various crew hatch, bomb-bay & u/c stiffeners – plastic strips, U-sections Upper & lower periscope fairings – shaped plastic rod (Albion Alloys) Various crew hatch, bomb-bay & u/c bay electrical boxes (self-designed, 3D printed) Various crew hatch, bomb-bay & u/c bay hydraulic blocks (self-designed, 3D printed) Various bomb-bay gearboxes & mechanical actuators (self-designed, 3D printed) Crew hatch actuator bodies (self-designed, 3D printed) Main u/c debris guards (self-designed, 3D printed) Main u/c load sensor bodies (self-designed, 3D printed) Bomb sight (self-designed, 3D printed) Blue Steel maintenance trolley (self-designed, 3D printed) Bomb-bay arch-spar hydraulic lines (self-designed, 3D printed) Dorsal & ventral navigation lights (cast from self-designed, 3D printed moulds) VHF antenna (self-designed, 3D printed + stretched sprue) Lead wire bomb-bay ventilation pipes Lead wire bomb-bay hydraulic lines Lead wire bomb-bay fire suppression lines Lead wire u/c brake lines Lead wire & Tamiya tape electrical wiring Bomb-bay and u/c door weather strips (lead wire) Ejection seat handles (twisted lead wire) Ejection seat harnesses (Eduard) Scrap p/e U/C bay surface details Plasticard triangle antennae (front u/c door & stbd. Forward fuselage) Plasticard bomb-aimers window deflector panel Plasticard nose gear door hinges Plasticard central windscreen wiper Additional bomb-bay & u/c bay lights (punched Plasticard & PVA) Bomb-bay air cylinders (scrap bombs) U/C joint fasteners (Top Studio p/e rivets) Tail strike boom (plastic rod) Riveted u/c door internals IFR probe illumination lamps (scrap decals)
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When I first built models they were toys; you built the kit (badly, glue and paint everywhere) and then had as much, if not more fun, playing with it. I remember frequently setting up a military base on the dining room table and then spending an afternoon flying various aircraft around, assaulting the base with various plastic soldiers and tanks and so on. Fast forward more years than I’m entirely happy about and my three year old son, venturing into my office / modelling space, has often demanded that he be allowed to play with the models dotted about the place. To save some of the more delicate projects from damage (well, worse damage than I inflict on them…) I did offer up to him one of my older models, an Airfix Halifax from way back. In retrospect this was a poor choice, having multiple small parts to break off; gun turrets, multiple propellers etc. I’ll see if I can find out where he’s hidden it for a photo of how it’s ended up… But it made me think. What if I built him a model that was a little more suitable to play with? Perusal of the stash threw up a duplicate Airfix Vintage Classics Commonwealth CA-13 Boomerang, Roy Cross artwork and all. I think I ended up with a spare after an online order where I was sent the Boomerang instead of what I actually ordered and, on querying it, got told to keep it while they sent me what I’d actually ordered. So I didn’t really have a plan for it. A small, chunky little aircraft, a handful of parts? That hadn’t cost me any money? That’ll do. So the plan is to build it in a form that will survive, as best possible, being played with by an excitable three year old. Glue everything to within an inch of it’s life, guns and any protruding parts removed (trainer version?) and wheels up. I think I’ll keep the propeller because he’ll enjoy spinning it round before the blades break off (I remember most of mine ending up like that back in the day, I’m sure I just told myself that the propeller was spinning so fast that you couldn’t see the blades). My son’s only request has been to the colours; Blue, Green, Yellow and Orange. So it’s going to have to be a WHIF scheme; I’ll have a think and see what sort of scheme I can come up with that could have a vaguely believable backstory! I hope that as a great many (probably the majority?) of Airfix kits ended up as toys for young boys this GB would be a suitable place for this build? Cheers, Richard.
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Kit - Airfix 1:48. Paint - All Tamiya acrylics. Decals - FCM, CAM Decal, Aeromaster, Kit. Extras - Eduard etch seatbelts. Junkers Ju87R-2 2 /St.2 Balkans Theatre Spring 1941 Other than the Eduard belts and scrounged decals this is an entirely from the box build - easily as nice & fuss-free as the 1:72 Tempest I finished a few weeks back. Paint isn't straight from the Tamiya jar(s), I mixed all of them using the trusted Mk.1 eyeball method, and I and VERY pleased with how they look. Please feel free to make any comments/criticisms or ask any questions. Cheers from NZ. Ian.
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Over the years I have built multiple kits of some aircraft types and the 3rd most numerous is the Harrier, falling in between the Fw 190 and Bf 109 though way behind the Spitfire. The first Harrier I built back in 1973 was the prototype, and since then I have built another 9 in various versions, including 3 Sea Harriers, but somewhere along the line the P.1127 got lost/thrown out, and for a good few years I have intended to replace it. I must have missed the 2nd boxing released apparently in 2000, but when I heard that it was to be released as a "Classic" this year I placed an order. It was due in July but actually arrived today! So - Harrier number 11 will be started before too long. In the instructions Airfix credit Roy Cross with the artwork. Pete
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Hello All I'm not normally a WWII modeler (so please excuse my ignorance), but I've always had a soft spot for WWII fighters with bubble canopies - they just look 'right' to me. To this end, I thought I'd have a go at building this Airfix 1/72 Typhoon Mk.1B, which I got for a very good price. However, I want to finish it in a standard camouflage scheme without the supplied invasion stripes or a shark mouth options. My question is this, would it still be accurate to model either of the options supplied in the kit minus their respective invasion stripes or sharkmouth ? Regards Gary
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Hi everyone, I am likely not going to finish on time my Typhoon in the Frog GB, I have barely started the Kingfisher in the US Navy GB, and to add insult to injury I am entering this Airfix GB with a Spitfire Vb... I am telling myself that it is going to last for a very long time. So no problem! Here is the kit I am planning to build: I built that kit when it first came out in 1975, and I loved it. This new boxing offers the same plastic for Mk Vb, as well as a new set of wings for a Mk Vc and a tropical air filter. I remember mentioning on BM that I was tempted by the Mk Vc, only to be shot down in flames by many Spit afficionados (and Heaven knows there are tons of them on BM): Wings too thick, you bloody Frog have got rocks in your head to build this kit, etc. So this project was shelved, and then I decided to revisit the Mk Vb that has left me so many great memories. So here I go: It is intended to be built as a Mk. Vb Trop, with clipped wings (please forgive me), from the South African air force in Italy, 1944. More to follow later. Cheers JR.
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This Jaguar entered service in 1974 with 6 Sqn, before a loan to the Indian AF in 1979. Returning to the RAF in 1984, XX738 was assigned to 54 Sqn at Coltishall and given the fin code GJ. It flew with the unit for the next 20 years, being repainted all grey in 2003 before transfer to 6 Sqn in 2005, flying with them until retirement on flying to Cosford for ground instruction duties in 2007. I got this kit from eBay, and it was a mix of darker and lighter grey sprues, with some pieces loose. However despite its age I enjoyed the build and it all goes together nicely, though with some filler required. For a change I didn’t use much aftermarket on this as I wanted a fairly simple build, just leftover Eduard instrument panels and aftermarket decals for the tail codes. I’m still hoping to source a yellow GJ for the nosewheel door.
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The other day, I realised that I only have a year or so before I celebrate 50 years of gluing plastic together. A sobering thought, of course, when you think of what good you could have brought to the world if only you had invested your time more wisely. Thankfully, thoughts like that quickly dissipate, and are replaced with more meaningful queries. Have I built every mark of Spitfire yet? Just what colour were the spaghetti swirls on those Hurricanes? Is RLM83 really dark blue? And speaking of the Luftwaffe, have I built every mark of 109 yet? OMG. Not only haven't I built every mark of 109 yet - I haven't made even one single model of the bloomin' 109. Not one in almost 50 years! How can I call myself a modeller? Oh, the shame if this gets out at a club meeting. I'll be banished from the IPMS - International Plastic Messerschmitt Society. But wait! I have this sweet little Airfix kit in the stash, and I can build this up quick, OOB, put it in my display case, and no one will be the wiser. Heck, it's even on top of the stash because the box is so small. Let's do it! Here's what was in the box: Oh crap, there's Eduard stuff in the box! So much for the OOB idea. Well, I decided to do it anyway. For starters, I added the nice photoetch rudder pedals. Next, I added the bracket that will hold the seat adjustment lever. Typical small photoetch part that you have to fold into a U shape, providing you can even see it. Eduard have you make the lever itself out of plastic rod. Remind me to do that at some point. Next up I painted the cockpit with some Gunze H70 RLM02, and the instrument panel with Gunze H416 RLM66. Eduard provide some very nice pre-painted instrument panels, and I just had to have a look at them through a magnifying glass. Yes, you can actually read the instrument dials. In 1:72 scale! Aye carumba. At this point, I switched over to the wings, where that nice Mr. Ed has designed some improvements to the wheel wells. Airfix has some nice detailing in the roof of the wheel well, but when the upper and lower wing sections are put together, the walls of the wheel well have a nasty seam running right down the middle. Eduard has photoetch to cover that up, but it looks tricky. Here is what we start with: I removed the Airfix detail from the roof of the well with a sharp no.11 blade. I then added the photoetch roof, which bends into a nice concave shape when you press it against the wing: Next, it's time to glue the wing sections together. Here I discovered something a little odd. If I aligned the top and bottom wings using the pegs and holes moulded by Airfix, the leading edge of the wing is not aligned - to fix this I had to cut off the pegs and line everything up by eye and then glue it. It was like building a short run kit. But at least everything is lined up, and I can add the photoetch walls. Once that was done, here's what I had: (You can see the nasty seam in the other wheel well.) It looks like an improvement, so I followed the same procedure for the other side. Oddly, I had to cut the pegs off of this side, too, in order to get everything lined up. Here is an in-process shot that shows how I tackled the wheel well wall. I took the flat piece of photoetch, and formed it around a wooden dowel, so that it was a smaller diameter than the wheel well. I applied some CA glue to the area where there is a notch for the landing gear strut, and then I worked my way around the wall, using very small amounts of CA. Lastly, I added the separate piece of PE that is glued into the indentation for the landing gear strut. Eventually, both sides were finished. Too bad the real wheel wells weren't brass, I wouldn't have to paint them. Then I went back to the cockpit, and added the PE harnesses to the seat. I also added the gun sight to the instrument panel. Next, I added a lot of PE detail to the cockpit sidewalls. The cockpit also got a light wash of burnt umber something or other. (I forgot what's in the bottle!) I didn't bother to fix the large ejector pin mark on the rear cockpit shelf, as there will be some PE covering that up later on. Some shots of how it will go together: You may have noticed that the edges of the cockpit and instrument panel have been sanded. I found this was necessary to get things to fit together properly, especially the fit of the wing assembly onto the fuselage. Without sanding down the edges of the cockpit, the fuselage is too wide, and when the wings were added there was no dihedral. I just kept sanding away at the cockpit until everything fit together with no difficulty. It wasn't much to remove really, and once I got to that point, everything fit together very well. Now it was time to address the fatal flaw of the kit, the one that makes it unbuildable. Of course, this is the infamous starboard wing root moulding flaw. On the wing root there is what looks like a strengthening strip of some kind, and this is reproduced nicely on the port side. The other side well, not so good. There is something there, but it hasn't been fully moulded. Airfix have fixed this in later versions of this kit, so I figured if they can do it so can I. First, I made a pencil rubbing of the good side. I used this as a template to cut out a thin strip of 0.010" styrene, which has a slight curve to it. Here it is just sitting on the starboard fuselage half: Next I used liquid cement to attach it to the fuselage: So far so good, but the strip is too thick (even at 0.010")! I sanded it down until it seemed to be the same thickness as the strip on the good side. At this point, I also glued the fuselage halves together. The strip on the good side has small holes evenly spaced along its length. To duplicate that, I need to mark off where the holes need to be and then add them. I measured the good side, and found the spacing was 1.5mm. I marked that off with a sharp pencil, nothing fancy. Next, I used a 0.016" drill bit to make the holes. I used my fingers as the drill; I rotated the drill bit between my fingers, finding it quite easy to remove the soft styrene. It's not perfect, but I think it will get the job done. I plan on sanding this down some more, and I think that it will look OK under a few coats of paint. To give you an idea of the scale, here is the model, the drill bit, my set of drill bits, and a euro buck: That last photo is not magnified as much as the others, so it looks more "real life." Anyway, that's where I am for now. I'll be taking a couple days off as my youngest daughter is graduating from university this weekend and you know what that means - no more tuition!! Woo hoo!! Cheers, Bill
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