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Found 8 results

  1. An old Yakovlev Yak-42 joined to the Aeroflot fleet. Brings back my old memories about an era of the civil aviation. Simple OOB - Eastern Express 1:144 kit. Not the best kit ever so far. But unfortunately there is no other available kit released recently. Rusair's resin kit looks like not exist anymore. 😞
  2. I present the RusAir resin IL-18 finished as CCCP-75717 an early “Salon” IL-18V. Built in 1961, the real aircraft was initially used for transporting VIPs, who apparently included Premier Nikita Krushchev and pioneering cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, until that role was taken over by jets. In 1975 it suffered an undercarriage collapse and never flew again, probably being broken up for spares Although I tend to avoid resin kits I make an exception for RusAir. Their IL-18 is absolutely gorgeous and a joy to build. I really can’t speak too highly of the moulding quality and attention to detail which are streets ahead of any other 1/144 IL-18 kit on the market. In the normal style of Russian resins the fuselage is split vertically like a conventional injection moulded kit and not solid like Authentic Airliners or Welsh Models. Rus-Air thoughtfully provide holes to drill for locating pegs to assist with fitting the wings and tailplanes. They even give you slots for plastic tabs to help align the engines. Very little filler was required, in fact one wing root and the number 2 engine needed none at all. The only slightly fraught part of the build was assembling the separate propellor blades and hubs. These need really careful handling. The blades must be sawn off the casting block, trying to use a knife risks breakage as I found out the hard way. It’s also quite easy to get the blades back to front, another thing I found out the hard way. The original plan was to use Revaro decals. They were designed for the Eastern Express kit and preliminary checking with photocopies suggested there would be minor fit issues on the RusAir model but nothing unfixable. However when I actually came to use them the Revaro decals flatly refused to soak off the backing sheet and they really aren’t a product I could recommend. The upshot was that I had to use the kit decals - shock, horror! Slightly to my surprise these turned out to be pretty decent and I ended up wishing I hadn’t wasted money and effort sourcing the Revaro sheet. With the liberal use of Microscale Liquid Decal Film and plenty of strong (red label) DACO solvent around the nose the kit decals coped stoically with many indignities. The end result is by no means perfect but if you want an early Aeroflot IL-18 it’s the only way to go once Revaro is ruled out. White paint is Halfords and natural metal is AK Interactive. There is very little weathering on the model - it's reasonable to assume that an aircraft used for transporting the Premier would be kept clean! I enjoyed the Rus-Air IL-18 so much that I’ve bought another one which will probably end up in Malev livery. I’ve also pushed the boat out and bought their limited edition Tu-114 which I wanted to grab before it went off the market. That should be a challenging, fun build. Thanks for looking and as always constructive criticism is welcome. Dave G
  3. I finished this model in January of this year, but never posted it here, so might as well. I’m an absolute aficionado when it comes to Soviet civil airliners, so I was happy to get my hands on this kit. It’s a great resin kit by AWM. The most accurate Yak-40 kit on the market and with the current exchange rate with the Rubble, not too expensive. I had a great time building it, but I had some trouble in the beginning with the glue as my superglue that I normally use didn’t work with this kind of resin. Eventually I used a special all-purpose glue that worked really well, but had the disadvantage of having a drying time of 24 hours. The cockpit decals are once again made by me, but the window decals are from PAS decals (I also bought the kit there). As it was snowing in The Netherlands in January, I thought it would be fun to make the pictures in the snow. Russia is after all often associated with cold weather (strange actually, as it can be +40 Degrees Centigrade in summer). Anyway, I hope you enjoy the pictures! Regards, Martijn
  4. 1/144 Ilyushin IL-96T Aeroflot Russian Airlines RA-96101 The IL-96T is freighter version of the IL-96-400 with Pratt and Whitney Engines rather than the Aviadvigatel. The kit is by Eastern Express and is based on the IL-96M. The aeroflot colours and Pratt and Whitney engines were short lived, the airframe now operates for Polet Flight. the new and the old (below)
  5. This is the Eastern Express IL96M kit which is basically a stretched IL96-300. There were very few of these built (I believe production has stopped) I won't be doing the IL96M, instead i am going to do the very brief and short lived aeroflot (old) colour scheme that featured on the IL96T - the only difference i can think of is the underside of the rear fuselage is meant to be more 'rounded' on the IL96M but the kit actually is wrong so its perfectly suitable for the IL96T. (i think the different shape is for cargo operations?) it also featured western engines that were eventually replaced
  6. 1/144 Boeing 777-3M0 (ER) (kit - Zvezda) Aeroflot Russian Airlines VP-BGF D.Davydov
  7. Heavy Transport Aircraft An-22 (late version) Eastern Express 1:144 The Antonov An-22 was a specialist heavy transport aircraft that was originally assigned to the Strategic Transport Command of the Russian Air Force during the Soviet era. The An-22, Nato code designation "Cock", was powered by four sets of turbo-prop engines and was classed as the most powerful propeller aircraft the world had ever seen. The nearest equivalent being the massive Tupolev Tu-95/142 Bear. The An-22 first appeared in the mid-1960's; it had a registered load capacity of 80 tonnes within its wide-bodied fuselage and was used to transport heavy loads or troops on operational duties. The aircraft was superceded in the late 1980's by the larger jet engined Antonov An-124. The An-22 continued to operate in the Soviet/Russian Air Force for a number of years, including troop lifts to conflict areas during the break up of the Soviet Union and also providing humanitarian aid around the world. The Kit On opening the box it is obvious that this is going to be a big model once assembled. The fuselage alone consists of at least 12 components and that is not including the tail assembly. The panel lines are finely recessed and look good, however care made need to be taken that these fine lines do not get filled with primer and top coat; especially if brush painting. There are 16 sprues containing the main units and 1 clear sprue holding the canopy and fuselage windows, plus a nose unit. One important element to note is that, although the instruction sheets show part numbers, no corresponding numbers are shown on any of the actual components and therefore strict adherence to the illustrated instructions will be essential. The next point which again needs to be noted is that there are no locator pins or tabs (male and female connection points) on any of these components. This means that alignment of parts, such as the left and right fuselage halves, needs to be achieved by lining up the corresponding panel lines which meet at these junction points. I have had a go at dry fitting some of these pieces and the exercise was very fiddly, mainly as the fuselage is a three-piece assembly (top left, top right and underside) and without location pins I found it difficult to keep things aligned. I would recommend lots of tape be kept handy in order to hold and align two pieces whilst lining up the third and then apply glue. The sprue connectors are nice and small thereby making it convenient for removing the component part with minimal residue to file down. There are however small amounts of flash on the parts, as can be seen on the rear of the fuselage assemblies above and below. As mentioned earlier, the fuselage assembly is made up from a considerable number of pieces; the lower part of the fuselage being a type of double-hull construction. This means that the main fuselage section, the piece with the three windows in the image above, needs to be glued to an inner part of the under-deck piece of the lower fuselage assembly, before the outer piece (the part in the lower left of the above image). I have dry fitted this area to demonstrate what is meant by this and posted the image below. This three-piece assembly could prove a challenge without the locator pin/tabs mentioned. The pieces appear to sit in place OK, once taped, but they may still be prone to movement so a final alignment check before glueing anything would definitely be recommended. This side view also shows how far in from the normal edge that the main fuselage has to be positioned, again without locator pins, before gluing into place. The rectangular piece which juts out from both sides of the fuselage, as seen above, comprises the main wheel bays component; as described in the section on sprue N further down in this review. The nose section of the fuselage, cockpit area and instrument panel parts are supplied on sprue C. I would think this area would need to be built and pre-painted internally before attachment to the rest of the fuselage. Once completed, this model is going to be quite long and may possibly be a tail-sitter. The instructions recommend weight to be added within the forward part of the nose section but does not elaborate on how much weight to use. This could be another area where a bit of time spent dry-fitting and testing with different weights may prove beneficial in the long run. Care may also need to be taken here, as too much weight could cause strain on the area around the front and main fuselage joints. Sprue D contains the lower fuselage assembly I described previously and where the main fuselage would be fitted to. The two long indentations, between the wheel bays, are the areas where the main fuselage would be glued to which is over 2cm (almost 1 inch) inside the outer edge of this piece. As such, this is a very unusual, but necessary, way of assembling a fuselage. The next three sprues; E, F and G, hold the wing and tailplane pieces. The top section of the upper part of the main wing has been produced in three parts; central, outer left and outer right sections. A nice little touch is the placement markings for the engines. Each engine location cut out on the wings is marked L1, R1, L2 etc., to denote the left and right engine pieces. The engines/cowlings are similarly marked to ensure the correct engine is mated to its corresponding location on the wing. We then have the vertical stabaliser/rudder pieces on spue H. Each piece is marked L or R and accordingly should be matched with its counterpart for glueing before to the tailplane elements from Sprue K below. The ramp section, which is situated under the rear fuselage and tail sections, is quite long and consists of three components. One of those, the main ramp, is also part of Spue K above. There are four sets of Sprue L, each consisting of a contra-rotating properller set, plus four of the 16 main wheels/tyres and two front wheels. The model has been designed so that the propellers can be assembled to be free-wheeling and, in order to allow for the contra-rotating element, there is a central plug on which both props plus four separation washers/cleats are to be assembled but not glued. A fifth washer/cleat is then glued onto the end of the plug thereby holding the propellers and cleats in free state. Sprue M has the engine cowling covers and, matching with the wing locators, are marked L1, R1, L2 etc. to ensure correct fitting to each other. The parts which make up the majority of Sprue N above make up the internal main wheel bays. When assembled, the unit has a square box shape and acts as a strengthener for attaching the main fuselage halves to. The final components sprue has all the remaining components for this build; consisting of seats, joysticks and various antennae and fuselage strakes etc. The clear sprue which came with this kit had some slight rubbing marks on the canopy surface. It should not be a problem though as the area concerned is a painted area. The marks are very light and should disappear with a bit of rubbing down, priming and painting. Instruction Sheets The two page instruction sheet is of the illustrative type, with no text as such for additional guidance. Due diligence really does need to be applied here, when identifying which item goes where; mainly because there are no corresponding numbers on the plastic parts themselves. With the exception of the engines and vertical stabaliser parts, that have L or R notations, you are left to make identify everything from these illustrations below. Although I stated that there are no numbers shown on the parts themselves, there is a visual breakdown of what those part numbers should be on the components sheet as shown below. The colour demarcations and marking sheet below should be very useful when painting up your completed model and applying the decals. I would take this sheet and get it enlarged to 1:144 scale so that I could get exact placement to match with the illustrations. DECALS The decal sheet is impressive. It contains over 100 items and the registration appears to be quite clear and crisp. I am, however, concerned that all the decals appear to be on one single backing sheet and will each need to be cut out separately before applying to the model. The kit area is so large though that cutting out each element should not be a major concern as there will be a good sized gap around each part. I particularly like the cockpit window frames which are in silver. This really will be a benefit, rather than having to mask and paint those tiny areas. The same applies for the leading edges of the propellers as there are 32 little silver strips that are applied, one for each propeller blade. Conclusion This is a very large kit with lots and lots of components and, even with the lack of locator pins/tabs; plus the unusual and complex method of assembling the fuselage; I found that when dry fitted the parts looked to fit nicely. The only area that appeared to need attention was some uneveness on the top fuselage join and therefore some filling may be needed in that area. The model is probably not for a beginner, and will probably need a little more effort and concentration to assemble, with regular referrals to the instruction sheet and any other reference aids but it should turn out to be a lovely looking model when finished. Review sample courtesy of
  8. I bought this kit only a few days ago and im really happy with the progress, and the kit in itself. It will, when finished, wear the delivery colours of CCCP-65973: http://www.airliners.net/photo/Aeroflot/Tupolev-Tu-134A/0720882/L/&sid=bd50b80da3d101e77115dff9e924479c http://www.airliners.net/photo/Aeroflot/Tupolev-Tu-134A/0120071/L/&sid=bd50b80da3d101e77115dff9e924479c The decals i will use can be found here: http://www.f-dcal.fr/decals/product.php?id_product=1217. I did however, after getting this far, discover that maybe i should have waited with the pitot tubes until after i've added the decals as those pass right over them. --------------- This is the kit i prioritize, but i am also working on a Revell 737-200 with Air Inuit decals from V1 Decals and a Hasegawa MD-90 that i have yet to decide what livery it should wear. If anyone is interested in pics, just ask.
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