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Found 57 results

  1. Built from the 1/72 AMT kit, the only mods I did were to sand out the terrible windscreen panel etching and file flat the panels (which is a big issue with this kit). I also sanded a 'pinch' into the radome as the nose looks too fat. I also added the antennas for a Desert Storm period aircraft.
  2. After a couple of Lancia rally cars completed, had a look through the stash and thought I'd give this a go as I fancied something different Never built an AMT kit before, so it's a learning curve for me, but I've always loved the look of the American muscle cars The wife and daughter got me this and a 70 Corvette from a long shopping weekend in NY a couple of years ago, This will probably be one of the most expensive kits I'll ever make when you factor in flights and hotels etc, but at least I didn'y have to trapse around the shops with them
  3. Hi all, A quick post. I bought this kit from ALDI here in Australia for about $20 (about US $13 or £12.50) with the intent of building it with my 10 year old nephew. He has never done any airbrushing at all so we started off sanding the body and getting rid of all the seam lines and giving it a coat of primer. This was back in January 2020. He got a bit heavy handed in a spot of two so I sanded it back at got it ready for painting. Then the world changed with the Corona Virus social isolation rules so my nephew could no longer come around. I decided to crack on without him. So I applied 4 coats of SMS (Australian brand of paint Scale Modellers Supply) Dark Bronze METALLIC and the clear is their SMS Ultra Clear Coat 2K. I tested the 2K on the bonnet and following the instructions to the letter (15psi and ratios of 10:5:1 Part A B and thinner) I found some slight orange peel affect. I reached out to the owner of SMS paints and mentioned my problem and if the activator was a slow, medium or fast and got told it's normal. For a hot climate in Brisbane this means the clear goes off too quickly and doesn't have time to level properly. So it was time to spray the rest of the body. I have had amazing success with Gravity Paints 2K clear at 30 psi so thought I'd try that with SMS. I also increased the thinner to 20% to try and slow the cure and give time to level properly. Here are my results. So my findings suggest 30 psi 20% thinner and the final wet coat go to town on it. I doubt you can over do it unless you hold the airbrush in the one spot for too long causing runs. When you think you've put enough down fill up your airbrush cup and do another fully wet pass. All of you in a hot climate may find this helpful. These pictures were taken after approximately 45 mins after the final super wet coat. I am extremely happy with the results and stoked to find a great 2K clear locally in Australia. I cracked on and tackled the engine next. I de chromed the intake manifold and rocker covers whick looked rdiculious and resprayed them with AK Extreme Metal polished Aluminium. The engine block was painted with Mr Hobby aqueous blue and the gearbox with Metal aluminum. The exhaust manifold was done with Mr Metal also. I decided to leave the carbys and air filture in the standard chrome parts. The fit and flash on the kit so far is pretty bad. More to come soon. Cheers guys
  4. I had attempted to build AMT's 1:25 Viper GTS kit as a child but royally messed it up. However I acquired this RT/10 in around 2007 from a friend who was moving abroad for work, and I had completed it by 2011, working on it alongside many of the other older builds I've posted up. The completed pics were taken earlier today, after a quick run over with a soft brush to remove all the dust from it sitting in my display cabinet. Paint was Halfords rattle can for the body, and brushed Humbrol enamels for the rest, except the interior which was brushed Tamiya acrylics. My friend had started it, building up most of the rolling chassis & he had fortunately also done an excellent job of painting the windscreen frame & screenprinting on the glass (which I hate doing) but the body & interior had not been started. I did little on the chassis except free up the front stub axles & rear driveshafts, and finish off some painting to the underside. The detail on this kit is very high - much is prototypically correct but fully hidden - e.g. there is a full side exhaust system even though it is sealed up in the sills... It did however pose some challenges, as for the body to sit correctly to the axle centres, the upper interior tub and rear inner arches were trying to occupy some of the same space. With some careful adjusting, tweaking (& hacking to the front of the inner arch & rear of the upper tub), everything fitted together. I think that I may have had to do some adjusting to get the front bumper & bonnet aligning too, but the rest of the parts all went together very nicely. There were no decals - everything was molded in, and I used a sharpie to pick out the badging, which worked well. For some reason this release of the kit came with tinted lenses for the front lights, which I am not hugely keen on. There is light unit detail behind, but the camera hasn't picked it up. Also, please forgive the right hand rear wheel looking wonky in some of pics - it does fit properly but I didn't spot until after the pics that it had come unglued from the driveshaft (these rotate with the rear wheels). In hindsight, I also need to do the edges of the rear light lenses in black sharpie to make them look more realistic but whilst they are only held in with clearfix, I'm wary of damaging the paint so am undecided whether I will fix this. I also need to add some clear orange over the silver for the front marker / running lights. I never got around to adding number plates, but if I do, the plan is to use the ones from the Chrylser UK's press fleet Vipers - either WOW 110T (with a dot between the 11) or A10 CYL. I also have Revell's snap kit Viper RT/10, which I'll build at some point and will probably be in the usual Viper red! It has a much lower parts count than the AMT and far less of the intricate detail, but it will be interesting to see how the two kits compare once built. Instruments were molded - no decals, so required careful painting. And a few from just before final assembly: Full exhaust system, but all hidden when the body is installed. This last pic shows how the interior parts are split between the body and the chassis - unlike many kits, there isn't the inaccurate and out of scale double floor:
  5. I've recently completed the conversion of an AMT KC-135 into an RAF Airseeker/Rivet Joint. I used the Combat Conversions resin set which provides new CFM-56 engines, new nose, cheek blisters and the various aerials and sensors that adorn the aircraft. The decals were from the Hannants' Xtradecal range. Paints were a mixture of Revell and Xtracolour enamels. Regards, Rob
  6. Hi Since I decided to ditch a load of my aircraft kits and build mostly Muscle car kits, I thought I’d best start one. For this I picked probably the worst first, 1 of 3 Dodge Challengers I bought, of which there is no good kit available really, all have their faults The AMT 70 R/T has been out in many boxes, this is a standard one with no extra bits. The main problem with this is the roof. It’s marketed as either a convertible or hardtop and does neither correctly. I’ve gone the hardtop route which has required a bit of filler Not anywhere near perfect but as good as it gets. I have also added the front far too early but to get a clean join, I’ll have to force some engine bay parts in later on Colour wise, I think I’m going with yellow and black, I’ve sprayed up a spare charger shell to try some old aerosols as I can’t go out for more paint Think I will go with the yellow and black bonnet but this one won’t be showroom finish. I’m thinking a rolling restoration, might leave a front wing in grey primer as if it’s been replaced, ratty but running. Once I’ve got the body pretty much sorted, I’ll start on the rest of it. Typical AMT, a box of loose bits More soon as I have some more days off soon Cheers Chris
  7. USS Defiant NX/NCC-74205 (FruitPACK FP08 for AMT) 1:420 GreenStrawberry It’s Star Trek time again, this time it’s the USS Defiant from Deep Space Nine, when they decided to give the crew of the space station a bit more robust mobility and add some greater breadth to the story-telling. The Defiant is a war ship plain and simple, and that’s all it was been designed for. As well as taking part in season 3 onwards and making an appearance in the Star Trek movie First Contact, it is a chunky little ship and has a bit of a “Voyager” look to some of her shapes, although all strapped to a saucer-style section and without any of the crew amenities that makes ships like the Voyager and Enterprise a home for her crew. The Set Designed to fit to the 1:420 AMT kit that was first released in the 1990s and has been rereleased a few times, the last time as recently as 2014, but they're a bit thin on the ground at time of writing. There are a lot out there in stashes of course, and GreenStrawberry have a pair of sets available to improve on the kit's simplified detail. The FruitPACK brings those together in a cost-effective and attractive box that contains a lot of resin, plus three sheets of Photo-Etch and a small sheet of decals. Inside the card box you get two sets that cover the Engines & Exterior in one, and Hangars in the other. Here’s what it all looks like in the heat-seal and ziplok bags: Engines & Exterior (08019-1/420) There are forty-two resin parts in grey, clear blue and clear red resin, plus two sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) part and a thick instruction sheet, plus a load of tiny resin flakes from the moulding process. There will be a little plastic butchery involved to fit some parts, which is best done before you begin the build, especially as this set just begs to be lit thanks to the translucent resin parts. Initially this includes removing the circular shuttle-bay panel underneath, some small details, a pair of recessed bays under the nose and eight holes on the upper side. The bays are replaced by detailed inserts and eight translucent blue plugs fill the holes, while the shuttle bay is left until later. A few more small details are removed from the snout of the craft and filled with a translucent blue resin part with waffle texture moulded-in and a resin bracing part behind it. Next are a pair of louvered vents on the top of the ship, which are shaved off and replaced by a resin surround, translucent red centre and four resin inserts in the recesses, plus a set of folded up ladder shaped parts that fit into the area. In the engine nacelles new “intake” lips are temporarily fitted to act as a template to cut a hole through which the translucent red intake is passed, and the lip is then permanently attached around it. This is repeated on the other side and joined by a bunch of PE details on each side, and later on some resin parts are added to busy the area up. Under the rear of the nose there is a scoop-shaped area that is detailed with a new skin plus additional parts that replace all the simplified detail of the kit. The kit exhausts are excised and replaced by a sandwich of two bay halves with a translucent blue insert between them that acts as a diffuser for a light to tint the whole bay blue. This will also show up the moulded-in detail and the additional parts placed within the area before fitting. The aft of the Defiant is a bit of a beaver-tail that looks a little unfinished, and this section gets a thorough overhaul with new impulse engine tubes that are recessed, mesh vents and other details. The rest of the set is used in thoroughly upgrading the detail to the outer hull, with skins, grilles and other details that take up a substantial number of parts. more parts are added to the aft, and the upgrade is completed by replacing the shuttle-bay doors with a new more detailed assembly. Hangars (07919-1/420) This set consists of one fret of PE, a sheet of decals, plus seventeen resin parts in grey, and of course the instruction sheet. This details the area you might have just covered over with the new doors in the set above, as well as the smaller bays in the lower hull, so remember this and plan ahead. Construction begins with the main bay in the belly, which is made up in layers to give a thoroughly 3D look, which includes decals for display screens as you go. They both attach to a bulkhead that is also decked out with decals along with some PE parts and access ladders that are folded up and put in place. The bay doorway is lined with a PE lip and the doors are folded into shape and placed in the aperture, with a large decal on the inside “stand clear” written around the edge. The smaller bays are made inside the small resin boxes with one end left open while the other is closed up with some small windows left for lights to shine through, into which you fit the shuttle pads and a lot of decals. There is also a PE part that is added to the underside of the shuttle “tray” that will allow it to be slid in and out, or to fix them in the deployed or retracted positions at your whim. After cutting out the bays from the kit lower, the bay edges are tidied up by adding a PE surround, then apply the completed bay from behind and add extra detail parts to the surround. If you really must cover up all that nice detail, a set of finely grooved doors are also supplied, although you’d be mad to fit them unless you made a boo-boo. The final fun part of this set is a few different types of shuttle, including one larger Chaffee shuttle, two Work Bee Units, and two Type 18 shuttles with their weird hovercraft vibe. They all have decals for their windows, as well as codes and for the type 18s, pinstripes and door lines. Conclusion This is very involved and detailed set that is by no means cheap, but if you’re serious about your Defiant model it’s a must have, especially if you’re planning on lighting it, which is very common in Sci-Fi modelling these days. This provides you with the majority of the parts that will do it justice, needing just the lighting loom to finish off. Very highly recommended if you have or can get a kit for a sensible price. FruitPACK FP08 They’re also available separately if you only want one set Engines & Exterior Hangars (07919-1/420) Review sample courtesy of
  8. Hi guys, this is the final reveal for this very old re boxed kit. I think it was kitted originally by Lindberg, back in the mist of time, and re booted by Round 2 model company, with a few improvements I guess I should have bare metal foiled the chrome trims, but instead used Molotow chrome, brushed freehand. This was quick, but not the sharpest of lines, but I can live with it. Overall not too bad of a build, I detailed up the engine bay with some chrome parts from my spares box, just to give it a bit of life, not really a show car, I wanted it to look a bit used. I had a can of sign writers white enamel paint on my shelf so I used it to paint the white wall tyres; also scratch built the twin aerials on the back of the car using some nylon bristles from an old sweeping brush. The beach boys wrote a song about this car "My 409". Well I better go and polish that chrome, bye for now.
  9. Happy New Year everyone, I started this kit just after completing the 66 T-Bird build, but shelved it for a while due to getting the Lamborghini build finished by the end of last year. Anyway I have dusted the box off the shelf and hope to crack on with it over the next few weeks, I found a red example on YouTube that I like the look of, so that's what I hope the finished model will look like give or take a few details. More updates soon.
  10. Last week my son pointed out the left hand warp nacelle had fallen off my Enterprise model onto one of my 1/32 Spitfires (don't be alarmed - it was fine!). Getting it out revealed the whole model was badly in need of a visit to spacedock. The fillers had cracked open and the varnish I used to use as a sealer had yellowed substantially. I subsequently pulled it apart a it more to bring it up to a more reasonable standard. I made this over 20 years ago and my skills have advanced a little since then. It is badly-fitting and will need some decent filling. I'll also need to work out a way to support the warp nacelles better as the tiny tabs used are plainly insufficient to support their weight for extended periods. I remember the kit decals were rubbish and I needed to bathe them in PVA glue to get them to adhere. I've ordered some nice but expensive replacements from JT-Graphics in the US (postage to Oz is almost as much as the decals themselves) and will attempt a better shading look to the overall appearance. Hopefully, she'll come out much nicer this time around. The Hasegawa Neptune under it is next on the shelf...
  11. Hi Comrades! My recent build is old but good AMT A-20G. This is original boxing. I will replace decals with Foxbot ones. Additions includes Eduard brass (interior and exterior, partly useful), True details wheels, Montex masks and Quickboost engines and cowlings. So far I assembled fuselage halves with some scratch additions, corrected the wing root profiles for better fit, and finished wheel wells and cockpit with some brass and scratch. The only problematic places are on gondola to upper wings connection. No major problems so far. Thanks for looking!
  12. Right, this summer seems to run with a speed provided by a high-revving small block backed up with a Muncie four speed and a positraction 12-bolt. I haven't touched a model kit for a few weeks as, well you know, the summer in Finland is short... I was astonished to see we are actually so far that even this GB begins! Now do I have a backlog, I sure do... But here's the Round2 model kits revamped AMT Camaro from my birth year, 1968. The kit dates originally even further, as it's based on a 1967 model year version that was just tweaked slightly, as was the actual Camaro too, from its introduction year model. You can't help noticing it's a '68, can't you? You have the choice of building her "stock" or... ...with "street machine features". I will build neither, I believe, sort of... Here's a peek at the plastic. I fell in love with the first gen Camaros ('67-'69) when I first met one. I was 13, I was vulnerable... V-P
  13. Hey All! Just got finished up with a car build and was longing to jump into another build, had this knocking around for years and thought I'd knock it out. Lessons learned and skills coming back after being away for so long. I want to do a nice job of this and take my time. I've been searching for aztec templates for the painting and have found some but just not sure if they are the most accurate, I found this : http://www.startrekpropauthority.com/2008/06/detailed-photostudy-of-enterprise-b-7.html and this It has a bunch of nice photos and if this is legit this was one of the models used in filming so it is supposedly the most screen accurate if true. If there are any other trekkies out there with confirmation or other good resources I would love to see. Ive also been watching way too much , https://www.youtube.com/user/TrekWorks , he has a wealth of stuff and makes amazing models. So this is my beginning, more to come. If anyone has some advice / resources anything would be massively appreciated. Thanks for looking. The top and bottom halves of the saucer section had massive gaps so allot of filler and sanding later its starting to look ok. Forgot to take before and after pictures but Ill try and remember next time Used Tamiya X-27 clear red on these, I'm REALLY loving the Tamiya paints super easy to airbrush and the finish is amazing every time, definitely something I'm going to get more of. Tried my best to replicate the look found on the supposedly screen used models secondary impulse engines, would go for the primary impulse engines too but these are just miniscule on this model and my hands aren't that steady yet You can see here what i mean, trying to get the impulse engines as accurate as possible.
  14. Hi all, I'm new here and looking to get back in to the model-making scene, having done a few when I was a boy... I'm currently looking in to getting the AMT950 Lockheed Vega 1/48 model to build with my daughter who loves reading about Amelia Earhart - thought it would be a good Daddy-Daughter project for Christmas. So I'm looking for a set of decals to use as the ones that come in the kit are Shell Branded and not the correct decals for the Earhart Vega 5C Little Red Wagon. The only place I've seen is Red Pegasus, but they are not currently selling and not contactable. Does anyone have a scan of the decals they can send so I can make my own, or know where I can get a set from please? Many thanks, Craggus2000
  15. Have seen one of these on offer for sale 2nd hand. Not mint in box or anything but is unbuilt and complete. Price is reasonable I think... I know it's not really that accurate (inside or out) and not even in the same league as anything larger scale by Bandai or Fine Molds.....but since those are in a galaxy far far away from my budget right now, is it worth a purchase or should I pass on it? Welcome your thoughts.. Cheers, Dermot
  16. My second Ken Schraeder build - this time the 1990 Lumina wearing Fred Cady decals. Far from my best and not visible in the photos thankfully - somehow I forgot to park the shell under my usual ice cream carton 'drying bay' as the Johnsons Klear / Future was going-off, so the d*mn thing does have a lot of dust particles and it bugs the h*ll out of me. Thanks for taking the time to look and / or comment, please feel free to hurl any abuse, ask any questions or offer any comments. Already got the next non-NASCAR build on the bench stand by for that very soon. AFN Ian.
  17. Wandering around the bench just now. This is the AMT kit of the Chevy Lumina, it's molded in a pale brownish grey (not unlike RLM 02), so priming and painting is a breeze. The BIG difference between the AMT releases and the more usual Monogram / Revell NASCAR kits of the same period is the scale; 1:25 as opposed to the more usual 1:24. Hence when I apply the decals they may look a little 'out' but I'm pretty sure that I can live with that !! As you see it here, it's wearing just one coat of Tamiya TS-26, more will follow. More soon. Ian.
  18. Kit - AMT/Ertl 1:48 Paint - All acrylics Decals - Ventura Extras - Ultracast resin seat, Hasegawa wheels. Kittyhawk IV 'Gloria Lyons' 18 Sqn & 2.SU RNZAF Bougainville 1944 Hot on the heels of the Mosquito comes an (almost) OOB build... AMT's twenty-year old (give or take) P-40N built as the well known 'Gloria Lyons' just before it was returned to NZ and repainted & refurbished. At this time it was 'owned' by 2.SU and used by 18 Squadron at Bougainville. As ever thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to hurl abuse, ask a question or make a comment. AFN Ian.
  19. Hello everyone ... Well im calling it done. Geronimo is all finished and presented to you. A link to the WIP log. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235034795-“geronimo”/ I hope Geronimo meets with your approval. Please feel free to comment. Dennis
  20. Hello all time to go for my next WIP. Im a little tired of jets at the moment, i need a subject with a propeller. I will build a P-40N from the 15th Fighter Group, 45th Fighter Squadron. Its a gilbert Island based unit and was a sister to the Makin island P-39’s in sand camouflage. I have this kit from AMT. Sadly it came with incomplete markings from the factory. It only has the nose art for the port side nose. Unfortunately i need both sides of the nose. I had a set coming from the canary islands but they disappeared somewhere in transit. AMT and Hasegawa kitted this “Geronimo” in 1/48th but i havent found any aftermarket or spares. That being said I will build it and save the noseart for a later day. Ive started by correcting the kits needle blade propeller. I used spare blades from an eduard P-39 kit. I also had a spare etch harness so ive glued that into a modified seat. The AMT kit seats were these square odd shaped affairs. I sanded and filed mine into a more appropriate shape. Then i added a blank of plastic sheet to the armor plate. It had a nasty sinkhole on the backside. Normally i would ignore this but since the P-40N has the cut down spine behind the cockpit thats not an option. Tomorrow i will begin painting the cockpit and doing some other odds and ends. Im just finishing my AV-8B Harrier build also so these will run side by side for a week or two. A teaser for the Harrier. I will leave it here for now. Any questions ? comments ? Or jokes ? Please feel free to comment or offer advice. Dennis
  21. Hello all ... I just finished this earlier today. Its the old AMT Beech staggerwing. It sat unloved for about two years after i started it. So I decided to put it in the KUTA Group build section to finish it off. I couldn't figure out a paint scheme to do it in. I had originally thought when i started two years ago to do it in a military scheme. But this time i wanted civilian. Well lack of the colors pushed me towards this idea. I chose to build the plane as a war weary liason aircraft, bought by a returning veteran. I figured he was trying to start a bush flying service in the territory of Alaska. I opted to scratch build ski’s and modify the kits main door. I thought a cargo plane needed to have the ability to load un-obstructed. Mike was my brother and was a great lover of the outdoors, sadly he passed in 2010. Enough for the back story onto the photo’s. I wanted it have a very rough look to it like the hand painted advertising, and the worn paint. I hope it looks good enough to pass muster. Have a great modeling day wherever you might be. Dennis
  22. Throwing my hat in the ring with an AMT Beech Staggerwing. I bought this kit about 18 months ago on SWMBO’s urging and built it and got it about 80% done. It still needs landing gear and a re-paint. I was going for a drafted staggerwing by the US Navy, in early war two tone camouflage. I’m thinking i will change and go with a civilian version with a retro/vintage colorscheme. I have already replaced the kits radial with a better version from my spares. Also dressed up the interior a little bit. I will add photo’s of whats done when i can get home. If i actually finish this i might have a second option for a second KUTA build. This will be Dedicated to my Brother Mike RIP Dennis
  23. So heres the final installment of the Tree of Trek, AMT's horrendous kit of the space station Terok Na/Deep Space Nine. Im calling this done, if i had another six months to spare on this i might have been able to take it to another level, but i simply dont! The fit is awful. the main ring had to be wired together to align and keep together while the glue set, virtually nothing lines up without the need for filler or sanding, i could go on. Anyway heres my finished result, yes it is meant to look distressed, i used humbrol enamels, a base coat of light brown with highlights picked out in chocolate brown, then given a single coat of light grey allowing the browns to come through in places fo a down and dirty look. Heres my photos, not an easy subject to take pics of as over 16 inches/410mm in diameter with the addition of a USS Defiant in scale. and finally the whole display, forgive the kitchen backdrop, just couldnt find a bin liner big enough LOL All the best Chris
  24. G'day all, Is there an accessory out there which converts AMT's 1:25 Chev Monte Carlo from a 1970 model to a 71/72 by way of modification to the headlights?
  25. Hi all After a few drinks on Sunday I ordered an old AMT 1/6 battle droid and STAP kit, it was under £20 so its not to bad. After thinking about it for a bit I quit like the idea of the battle droid on my desk at work, the STAP will go in the kit bash box.To display the droid he needs a blaster though and I dont think he comes with one, so my question is, Is there a 1/6 blaster that would work or a 1/6 scale real world gun that I could mod? I really dont want to scratch build one ( im not anywhere near that good) Thanks for any help. Brian PS. I have seen the sideshow blaster on ebay and that out of the question at that price.
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