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  1. Good evening everyone. The de Havilland Sea Vixen is an aircraft of singular appearance is it not? You notice it. The sweep and curve of its geometry. Formed not only from the requirements of naval aviation but (covertly, one suspects) from those1950s fantasies about how fast and silver a technological future would look. It was the kind of aircraft Captain Scarlet would have trained on and was capable, if required, of protecting the Earth from UFO invasion. At least I think so. I'm going to build two of them partly for the aforementioned reasons, and partly as a way of celebrating the friendship and generosity to be found on this forum. (More on that in a bit.) For now though, posting this in full view means there's no bottling out. Choice of Subject Having wanted to build one these for a long while, I'd been collecting various bits and pieces and images without (as often happens) a definite subject in mind. Always liking a build to be rooted in a meaningful narrative of some kind, I was leafing through some of the entries in the Dorset Crashes site and noted that a FAW.1 (XN708, from 890 Sqn) had gone down in Lyme Bay on the night of 25th November, 1964, killing both crew: Lt Michael J.W. Durrant RN. & Lt Basil A.Last RN. We can sometimes be guilty of building things only to celebrate the notable or the heroic in conflict; in this case it seemed fitting to build something to note those who end uncelebrated in the footnotes of history as peacetime or training casualties. This is the only clearly identifiable shot I've found so far of XN708/R244, original date of photo unknown: Image credit: Imgaylard Brian Patterson has an excellent colour gallery of a sister aircraft here though that will doubtless prove highly useful as references. For the second choice, I'm (as frequently the case in matters of naval aviation) indebted to @Ex-FAAWAFU for drawing to my attention the powerful, nay provocative, black & white diagonal scheme of XJ481 when undertaking Martel trials: Image credit: Roger Winser This has not only the challenge of building a replacement nose to incorporate that camera housing and a Martel to scratch up (I knows there's a 1/72 resin one out there but think the fins are too thick) but a snazzy 'dazzle paint' work to do also, for which @Terry1954 has also kindly supplied some colour references. The Kits I'm going to modify both the venerable 1/72 Frog offering and use the High Planes kit, which has a FAW.1 option. I'd mentioned above that this build was in part a celebration of the generosity no be found on this forum. Let me start by detailing such matters here: The High Planes kit was sent to me some time ago by @Procopius. How gracious is that? Thank-you Edward for this kindness. As a young shaver on the forum, not long after joining I'd mused aloud in a thread about the absence of FAW.1s in 1/72 and been overwhelmed by a (characteristically) generous influx of references and diagrams from both @71chally and @canberra kid regarding the feasibility of modifying the Frog kit. The fruits of these discussions are posted here and I must reread them myself prior to commencing any work in this direction! If you've had a look at Brian Patterson's colour shots above you'll notice prominent in one of them is a Palouste starter. I never used to know about these until seeing @perdu resinate superb examples in his Buccaneer build. Not only that but again without saying anything he'd tucked some of his output away in a package he sent and so I'll be proud to use one of his Paloustes in this project. Thanks Bill! The High Planes kit first: As it says on the box: In fairness I see 'adjustment of parts required' on every kit I buy.... I haven't looked closely-enough at the canopy yet to make any decisions regarding suitablility: Some replacement Aries wheels (I'd forgotten I'd bought them) to replace the originals: The Frog File: Check out the crazy patterning all over the plastic. Weird.... That nose: Subject of much discussion with John and James on the original thread, as might be imagined.... How to '1 a '2: Picked this up dirt cheap of 5thletter bay many moons ago. Think that resin is the 'Final Touch' set (?) but no idea about the white metal provenance. Wheels and legs don't impress: The Airwaves stuff was in the Frog box when I bought it, honest guv: Vaguely possible one or two of those bits may prove of use but certainly not the grotty wingfold. Here's what's really going to offset a diorama - a beautifully perduced Palouste: The markings on both aircraft will be painted rather than decals, but thankfully I've the Model Alliance decal set for the Ark's air wing that I can snaffle the moonlit witches from for the 890 Sqn Vixen: I'm aware of multiple issues with correcting the Frog to a FAW.1, but the High Planes I believe is to be generally trusted in shape terms? (Please correct me if wrong on the latter point). There will of course need to be a wingfold involved somewhere but this has given me a pause for thought: the colour scheme of the Martel-tester is so good that the wings on that one will have to be fully extended to display this handsome plumage, so XN708 will be the one to get the folding treatment, though which kit do do which with (if you see what I mean)? The Frog is moulded with the break in the wings where the fold is so a natural candidate, yet one with such problems in its nose area that this really makes it a better candidate for (the unfolded) XJ481 viz. a totally new and angular schnozz. I'm sure that the High Planes kit can be 'persuaded' to fold so: High Planes = XN708/Palouste (wingfolded) Frog = XJ481/Martel (non-folded) Nearly forgot. XN708 will have the RR Avons visible. So I'll be building 1/72 Avons as well.... References As standard for me, along with contemporary photographs, will be working from original technical documentation, namely several thousand pages of these: I've all 4 volumes of the above, plus: - for the engine build. As the technical manuals are obviously for the FAW.2, help with that handful of specific differences such as canopy etc comes in the form of relevant sections from the FAW.1 manuals generously provided previously by John (@canberra kid). Who else? I'm hoping to have the current Anson build finished by the Autumn so if you've nothing planned for those long winter evenings you'd be very welcome to pull up a Palouste and keep me company here. Thanks for reading, as always. Tony
  2. AH-1G Cobra 3D Printed Acrylic Instrument Panel (RFSQS-32030 for ICM) 1:32 Red Fox Studio by AMMO During the last few years we have been blessed by the introduction of new technologies to our hobby, amongst them being 3D Printing in coloured resins to create instrument panels, dials and all sorts of interior (and exterior) details for our models in various scales. New company (to us) Red Studio of Hungary have begun producing a range of these panels in various scales under the distribution of AMMO by Mig Jiménez, which broadens their introduction to the market appreciably. Their sets arrive in clear foil bags with a red card topper for display on racking, held together by a single staple. With the staple undone, the bag empties to unveil a folded card backing that also has the parts printed on its satin surface, a concertina folded instruction sheet, and the sheet of decals that face outward at the back. The sheets are small, but the detail is exceptional, looking about as realistic as a panel can get at this scale. The instructions lay out clearly where the parts should go, and the areas that will need their moulded-in detail removing are marked out in blue over photographs of the kit parts, which are also called out by sprue and part number for your ease. The next step shows where the individual parts should fit, again arrowed to their location on the actual parts. This set includes two instrument panels, one for each for the crew, plus side-console panels for each of their cockpits, totalling five additional decals in all. The rear pilot’s side consoles has two separate sections on the left and one on the right, all of which are superbly detailed, and should be attached to the kit parts via PVA or super glue. From my experience, 1:32 lends itself very well to this type of decal, giving a balance of depth and detail at its most effective. There are a number of notes made throughout the instructions advising you not to try to cut the decals with a scalpel as they could disintegrate due to their delicate nature. They also tell you that you can apply most types of washes and varnishes over the surface once they are applied, and that once wet they are somewhat flexible, although there are limits of course, which is stated to be 5%. The resins used in production are also ultra-violet (UV) resistant, so your dials and other light parts shouldn’t be affected over time, retaining the same look as if they had just been applied. Here is a link to an instruction guide on how to apply this type of decal to your models, which should help you avoid any pitfalls. Conclusion The detail applied to 3D printed instrument panel is at the current apex of realism, and as such they’re one of my must-have choices of aftermarket for the discerning modeller. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hello everyone. This is the last of a pair of Sea Vixen FAW.1s that I started building as a project in 1/72 scale back in 2019 in order to go beyond what was available in kit form in terms of quality and detail. The first of these aircraft - XJ481 - was completed last October in her Martel trials livery and can be seen here. The aircraft represented here - XN708 from 890 NAS - crashed into Lyme bay killing both crew on the night of 25th Nov, 1964. A fuller history of both aircraft, as well as the build log for designing and printing them, can be found here: Source materials used in developing the CAD designs comprised of the Sea Vixen maintenance manuals cross-referenced with photographic imagery, a combination I've come to rely on in terms indexing what you see against its actual function. Aside from printed resin, the build also required the use of vacforming for the pilot's canopy and the production of homebrew PE for a range of internal and external features. All markings are painted using custom mask sets. Walkaround: Wingfold: Radar and nose area. (Yes, the scanner dish moves...) Engines: I've a list of people already who want a copy of this to make a FAW.1 for themselves so I'm going to be producing it as a multimedia kit in resin, brass and vacform over the coming months, to include all the details shown here. If you like what you see and want to register an interest in having a a copy as well, please feel free to drop a PM. As ever I'd like to finish simply by thanking all those forum members who gave so generously of their time, humour and expertise in following along with this project: it's always chastening to realize that no matter how certifiable my ramblings, there are other equally disturbed individuals out there prepared to read them. All power to you, and of course, peace. Tony Ps. The pair of them together...
  4. Hello guys, In this thread I'll be posting all the 3D printed models I'll be building. 3D printing is still a young branch in the hobby world. There aren't many threads dedicated to this style of modelling on BM. As a way to introduce the thread, here are three models I assembled and painted. The first one is an A-4B in 1:72. The aircraft is marked as C-207. This model was gifted to my therapist as a way to thank her for everything she did for me. These two are I.A.e 33 Pulqui 2s in 1:48 scale. The first one was painted in a scheme which doesn't follow any conventional rules. I just wanted to see how it looked with some coats of paint. The second Pulqui 2 was painted in the more realistic scheme of the F-86F-40 Sabres Argentina used till the 70s. Anyway, I hope to see you guys comment on this thread. Next aircraft will most likely be a 1:48 Mirage V "Dagger" as C-408 in the "last flight of the Mirage" in Argentina.
  5. The Dagger reached the finish line yesterdy. Y gluing the canopy. Now I'll save for a new 1:32 Bf 109G-10.
  6. Spitfire F Mk.XVIII Upgrade Sets (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard We reviewed this new boxing of the Spitfire in May here, which featured the cut down fuselage, bubble canopy and powerful Griffon engine that allowed to continue in service long after its heyday during the Battle of Britain. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491296) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panel sections with the typical raised centre section a separate part, plus a small section on the right side, which is applied after removing the kit details. The bundle of cables down the left side of the footwell frame are removed and replaced by PE parts, with a perforated carrier for the compass supplied to receive a 2.6mm slice of rod with a painted PE top to finish it off. The rudder pedals are also replaced by a pair of detailed parts including the straps on top and a raised lever in front. The control column is given a PE firing button, and behind the pilot’s head a triangular head armour plate is attached to the front of the seat frame, with brackets to support a length of 0.4mm rod or wire in the centre. The cockpit sidewalls are decorated with a large number of upgrade parts on both sides, making it a much more realistic affair. The gunsight is replaced with a PE part that has its glass replicated by a piece of acetate cut from the small printed sheet that is also included in the set. The crew access door can be cut out of the side of the fuselage along it panel lines then replaced by a two-layer PE door that has a crowbar and locking mechanism added, glued to the fuselage by a narrow folded hinge. Just don’t you dare paint that crowbar red, or the purists will have you. The canopy has a closure fitted above the pilot’s head, and an oval eye through which a small kit part protrudes in the deck behind him. Externally, the twin radiator fairings under the wings are stripped of most of the rear cooling flap, with a new folded PE part glued inside the remainder, bracing struts and an actuator rod allowing it to be fitted into the back of the fairing along with a pair of skins for the radiator surfaces, depicting the intricate mesh that allows the heat exchange to take place. The chin intake has a flap and mesh insert added, the rudder actuator is removed and replaced with a PE strip, as are the trim tab actuators on the elevators. Inside the main gear bays a couple of small panels are fixed to the curved surfaces, then the legs are overhauled with new oleo-scissors and tie-down lugs, together with a brake hose and two-layer captive bay door. Under the wing trailing edge, a pair of hooks in surrounds are glued into place, and the tail wheel bay received a single part that folds into three to depict the bay and two doors, with an actuator strut between them attached to the retractable leg. Zoom! Set (FE1296) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48082) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set has a two-layer decal instrument panel glued over the recently stripped back kit panel, with a small angled sub-panel in the bottom right consisting of a PE backing that holds two decals. The rudder pedals are replaced by detailed PE parts with foot straps at the top, and a perforated frame is made up to contain a compass made from a slice of 2.6mm rod from your own stocks, and a circular decal with the compass face on it. Behind the pilot’s head a triangular head armour part is attached to the front of the seat frame, with brackets to support a length of 0.4mm rod from your own stock in the centre. The twin shoulder belts on the PE sheet slot through the head armour while the two lap belts are slung over the sides, making sure that you apply the beautifully printed pencil quilted back cushion first, replacing the kit detail and looking very much like leather. The cockpit side walls are upgraded with a serious number of decals and PE parts to give the interior a much more realistic and cluttered impression with little in the way of removal of kit details. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1297) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as a sets of four-point crew belts, you also get a representation of the “towel rail” that supported the shoulder straps away from the sharp edges of the head armour through which it passed. Masks (EX885) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort, wingtip lights and landing light for good measure. Masks Tface (EX886) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  7. F4F Wildcat Upgrade Sets (For Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Eduard’s brand-new Wildcat kit is a gorgeous piece of plastic engineering, as I’m in the process of finding out here, although progress has been slow – my fault and nothing to do with the kit. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), SPACE and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48076) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set includes a full set of 3D printed instrument panel sections, plus additional parts that are applied to the side consoles to replace many of the raised portions of the styrene parts. There is also a pair of printed document cases for the sidewalls, and while the PE sheet is almost totally made up of seatbelt parts, there is also a handle for the side consoles and a backing plate for the larger of the two document folders. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1290) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as a set of four-point seat belts, you also get a pair of comfort pads for beneath the buckles to prevent the poor pilot from getting chaffed thighs. Masks Tface (EX878) Supplied on a large sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. It also gives you another set of masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Luftwaffe Rudder Pedals WWII PRINT (648778) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Although this set arrives in a flat package, the directly 3D printed parts are safe ensconced inside a clear plastic clamshell box inside the package, which also has a sticky pad inside to prevent the parts from rattling about. The parts are printed resin, attached to the base via thin tendril-like fingers that are easy to cut off and sand the little upstands away, leaving them ready for action. This set contains six individual rudder pedals in extreme detail that has been directly 3D printed with no casting involved. This gives you enough pedals to create three pairs, and they will be very useful if your kit is less than well-represented in the rudder pedal department, as is often the case with injection moulded styrene. When I say extreme detail I mean it literally, as the pedals are printed with all the perforations integral to the real parts, plus the foot straps that keep the pilot’s feet from lifting off under G, as well as the mechanism behind the pedals that transmits the movement of his feet to the flying surfaces at the rear of the aircraft. These parts will come in incredibly handy if you are building one of the many glass-nosed aircraft that were in the Luftwaffe arsenal during WWII in my favourite scale. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Having recently been knocked sideways by a bout of the Covid, progress in the mancave of both my Mercedes L4500 and SWS ground to a halt. Checking my faculties were still all functioning as they should and not wanting to muddle up either project, I figured a quick out of the box build should do the trick. Voila! Tamiya’s ickle 1/35 PzII was knocked out in a few hours and figuring my eye was firmly back in I then proceeded to ignore both ongoing projects and start a completely new one! This one would be a first for me, and one I had been itching to start since I received it 6 months ago. The contagion had scratched that itch, so it was finally time to confront my fear of all things new. Old school I don’t have a 3D printer but intrigued as I was over both the subject matter and the new engineering formula, I contacted the designer and enquired whether he would be prepared to send me one out. Fortunately, Darius Stucinskas is a jolly nice chap and was only too happy to print me a couple of trailers out and post them safely across Europe. The 3D kit is a Sondernhänger Sd. Ah. 56/57 single axle ammunition trailer towed by late war self-propelled Flak guns. Images of CAD renderings can be found below. Darius has done some amazing work researching this vehicle and although he admits there are a few small areas that are still difficult to 100% accurately ascertain, dimensionally the trailer is spot on. The future Before I start it is worth mentioning that the 3D file can be purchased for insanely good value from https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-35-scale-sd-ah-56-57-ammunition-trailer along with many other WWII axis projects Darius has created. To date there has only ever been one kit available in 1/35 scale and that is a resin kit made by Wiener Modellbau. It is a great little kit, but it lacks detail and there are a few inaccuracies in both the box and the chassis. Now anybody that has ever built any Sd.Kfz 7 self-propelled Flak gun variants will be aware that Trumpeter do indeed include a trailer with all of their kits. What you might not know, or indeed care is that the trailer kit they provide is a mismatch of two types of trailers. They label it as a Sd.Ah 52 but anybody who knows what a 52 looks like will agree that the Bronco kit #CB35079 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/bronco-cb35079-sdah52-37cm-flak-36-37-ammunition-carriage-trailer--115264 is a far better representation than Trumpeter’s. What Trumpeter have done is mixed up a 52 chassis with a vaguely similar 56/57 box body. If you are modelling an early Sd.Kfz 7 variant they did utilise the Sd.Ah 52 trailers as can be seen in many a period image but the majority of late war armoured 7’s and indeed L4500 Mercedes and Bussing NAG’s can be seen towing Sd.Ah 56/7’s. These trailers can be seen in a few slightly modified guises and obviously as resources became scarce during the late war years flat roofs and less hinges were seen on later models. Next up. Lets have a look at the kit
  10. Hi all, I'll be building this 1/200 scale, 3D printed kit of the Bombardier CRJ-1000 airliner. The -1000 series was the longest version of the CRJ (Canadair Regional Jet), family and was produced between 2010 and 2020. I bought this kit, via the Shapeways marketplace, about 7 or 8 years ago. At the time I couldn't find any aftermarket decals for the -1000, so ended up buying a couple of sheets for shorter versions (from the Canadian company, V1 Decals), in order to get the necessary number of windows. I'll be building a Croatia Airlines aircraft, using a Flightpath A319/320 sheet for their markings. Cheers
  11. Hello everyone. I don't get on this part of the forum very often as my builds tend to be rather prolonged affairs, but here we are: this is my attempt at building an accurate Sea Vixen FAW.1 at 1/72 scale. A full account of the research materials and design process can be found on the WIP here: The build originally started out nearly two years ago with the original intention of modifying two existing kits (an approach which I pretty soon abandoned on grounds of quality/accuracy),deciding instead to design my own. Shown here is the result of 3d printing with some homebrew PE and vacforming for details. A few other details like pylon braces were hand-made from brass, whilst custom masks and decals were produced to handle the colour work. The designs for this aircraft were produced from a combination of photo-interpretation and the aircraft maintenance manuals - each indispensable in confirming the details of the other - using Fusion 360. I've no background in CAD, or 3d printing - or even making your own brass etch - so the whole undertaking turned out to be a major learning exercise on multiple fronts as different sets design problems arose and needed to be resolved. The aircraft here is actually the first of two FAW.1 designs that I've produced; I'll talk a little more at the end of his post about the next one. Aside from the encouragement of a regular bunch of knowledgeable and generous friends on here, there are specific individuals that I need (as always, I never consider anything I do on here solely 'mine' so much as the result of shared knowledge) to single out for thanks. @71chally - in my view the peerless historian of this de Havilland aircraft made sure that I had the bumps and colours of this aircraft correct. @Navy Bird provided support in the early days of the project and proved (should proof be needed) of how generous modellers are with information. @canberra kid as usual seems to have every British aircraft manual under the sun and filled in the blanks most decently with the pages missing from my own copy. @hendie was - with the routine resin masterpieces that he casually lobs into his builds - the single biggest influence on me turning to 3d printing and has by this stage cost me a bloody fortune in tools over the years.... The following photos then show my reproduction of XJ481, an early production Vixen that ended up being co-opted as a trials aircraft in the late 60s, at which time she received this bold diagonal scheme for work on trials of the Martel missile system. The paint scheme shown here is intended to represent the appearance of the aircraft circa 1970; a more detailed service history being available on the FAA Museum site here. Studio photos to start with then showing some of the details: My personal preference remains the use of daylight in terms of judging the effectiveness of my work in relation to the actual aircraft: Next up over on the WIP will be XN708, a later production version of the FAW.1 that was lost on night exercises in Lyme Bay in 1964. This one will be built as a full display version with wingfolds, moving radar and removable Avon engines: It's already printed - I just need to get cracking and build the thing! Thanks for looking in. Take care, Tony
  12. Mi-24D Raised Rivets & Surface Details (ER48002 for Zvezda) 1:48 Eduard Zvezda’s new 1:48 Mi-24D Hind was welcomed with open-arms by the modelling masses, putting the old Revell/Monogram kit way into the background. One of the few criticism levelled at the kit was the lack of raised rivets, particularly around the rear and on the tail-boom of the aircraft, which are fairly prominent on the real thing. That fact didn’t get lost on Eduard’s designers, and they’ve been working on this new 3D printed set that corrects that omission and adds lots more detail besides. This set arrives in a flat, resealable clear foil package around A5 size, with the instructions wrapped around the contents to keep them safe, aided by a sheet of white card. Inside are three sheets of decal paper that have been printed with incredibly fine resin details in a large number of sections, which correspond to coloured sections on the instructions, while the back page includes guidance notes to help the novice getting to grips with this interesting new use of the 3D printing facilities that they have been so ably using in their SPACE printed instrument panels. There are 65 individual decals on the three sheets, and the detail is phenomenal, including rivets by the million, raised sections in various layers, fasteners and inspection hatches, all surrounded by a faint grey border line, which is your guide for cutting of the decals from the sheet. The instructions tell you to build your model, fill engraved panel lines, remove raised detail where advised on the coloured map, and prepare each decal by cutting it just the other side of the afore mentioned grey lines. You are advised to use a kitchen sponge with a mixture of water and a few drops of “dishwashing saponite”, which confused me a little until I Googled it. Saponite is another word for soapstone, so I suspect there has been a slight mis-translation somewhere along the line, although Google’s translation was “spring”, but I suspect it means dish soap as a water-tension breaker. You moisten the sponge with the mixture and place the decal on it until it is ready to release, after which you press it carefully onto your model without moving the sponge. Sounds simple, doesn’t it? I hope it is, as I’m going to have to get another set for my other kit eventually. After the decals are fully dry, you are told to give it a few thin coats of Mr Surfacer to help them bed-in, and take care if you are masking your model for painting, as the decals don’t have the same adhesion as primer. If you do mask, reduce the tack of the tape by applying it to the back of your hand or a scrupulously clean desk a few times before using it. Conclusion These decals have the potential to be a game-changer for models that were created minus some of the finer details, as these can now be added later with the modern technology at Eduard’s fingertips. The detail is amazing, even down to the different sizes and pitches of the rivets and their patterns around the model. They’re not cheap at this stage, but they offer a lot to an otherwise great kit that suffers from rear-end blandness. If anyone from Eduard is reading this, please produce a video of the decals in use for the hard of thinking like me. It would be much appreciated, and could possibly improve uptake, as pictures speak a thousand words, so videos probably speak tens of thousands. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Yak-9D Interior 3D Decal Set (QD48281 for Zvezda) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels with decals if you're lucky, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a Ziploc bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue, and not using decal softener due to the possibility of it melting the resin. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the brand-new Zvezda Yak-9D in 1:48, and includes all manner of goodies. The set comprises two sheets of decals, containing a superbly detailed instrument panel and side consoles, additional black box fronts, levers and a full set of seatbelts for the pilot’s convenience and safety. The coolest parts are the pair of fuel gauges that are fitted flush with the wing top surface. The kit has clear lenses, which are over-thick, so this set replaces them with an inverted printed dial under a spacer in white resin, then a clear lens with bezel to go over the top. There are two types of gauge dials, and those are the white circular parts on the sheet with L and R printed on them to show which wing they fit in. very clever! There’s even a flare pistol for attachment to the floor by the seat. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches and impressive crispness of the set. This cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Hello guys, I bought a second 3D Pulqui 2 with the intention of showing it in a presentation I'll be giving at uni this Friday. The colour scheme is from Calcas del Sur's decal sheet, showing a possible scheme had the Pulqui 2 entered service with the FAA instead of the F-86F-40s ex USAF. Bottom photo shows the Ta 183, where you can see just how similar both aircraft were. Both were designed by Kurt Tank, the 183 at Focke Wulf, and the Pulqui at Instituto Aerotècnico. Colours used were Revell Aqua 05 White, 87 Dark Earth, 40 Black Green and 79 Grey Blue. Though not as detailed as mainstream models (this plane is very basic, only landing gear, wheels, pilot and two fuselage halves), 3D printing is good when you can't find a model of an ususual subject in any scale. Hopefully a local resin manufacturer will tackle the Pulqui 2 in 48th some time. However, since the kit is relatively cheap, I'll be buying a third one and paint it as the fifth prototype. This one was painted white with a red horizontal stabilizer and red cheatlines.
  15. " Things have become a little rougher, ugly and now we need a law enforcement unit capable of meeting the enemy on his own ground, and carrying enough fire power to get the job done." " Ladies and gentlemen, with great pleasure, i introduce ROBOCOP 2" The Old Man Hi fellow modellers. A few months ago i decided to get the 3d print files for Robocain from Robocop 2. The problem was i never actually had the time to start the project. With the current situation that the world is in, I have more time at home and i can finally get started. I know this project is going to take along time and i hope that you enjoy seeing my progress. The model will be in a 1/6 scale, which will make him over 40cm high ( go big or go home, i guess ). The printer i will be using is my trusty Creality Ender 3. The only things i have done is print a better parts cooling fan and change the board to make it quieter I know their are some other people in the forum that are doing the same build and cannot wait to share our problems, and solutions to those problems with each other. So my first pics The majority of the first things to print were the actual support structure and framing for this guy. Most of this you won't see but between that and the M3 bolts, he's built to last and that's a good thing in my household. So once the frame for the upper body is complete, you can then start to get some of the panels on. This is then gives you an idea of how your frame is and where trimming and straightening is required. The one downside to 3d printing is, if you don't get your settings dialled in, you will be sanding and sanding to remove the print lines. I suffered with this until i realised i had set my printer settings up wrong, so please ignore those nasty lines So up to this point, the build has been small to medium prints that only took between 1/2 hr to 2 hrs a piece. The first big print was the 2 half's of his upper chest armour. With a combined print of about 12hrs this was the first big and visible piece to be printed ( not including the head part ) The chest is 3 different parts and when i fitted them together they just didn't look right. Looking at pics online, it showed that the 3 pieces are one big piece. So i decided to glue them together and fill in the gap, which was the reason i think it looked wrong Once the upper body was done, i decided to move to the minigun and ram arm Once this part was done, i couldn't resist connecting it to the upper body and see how it looks. Oh btw its starting to get heavy lol Hope you have enjoyed this post and will post up when the next bit is done Stay Safe
  16. F-104A/C Update Sets (For Kinetic) 1:48 Eduard Kinetic’s ever-widening range of Starfighters is well-detailed and selling well, with good reason. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail above and beyond the capabilities of injection moulding in their usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), 3D Printed SPACE and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. F-104A Interior (491266) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the rear cabin are in full colour; the ejection seat stirrups are removed and replaced by new PE parts, with a stencil added to the back between seat and headbox. The cockpit sills are decorated with small parts, some painted, others bare; the large avionics box behind the pilot is augmented with detail skins after removing the raised sections, replacing those with new PE parts later on, and a detailed underside to the cover, surround and other details. The coaming is upgraded with small PE parts, new rudder pedals are placed in the foot well, and a tiny triangular web is inserted into the back of the cockpit area. The canopy receives latching rails along the sides, plus new in-scale rear-view mirrors, and a colour-printed card that is stuffed into the front left corner of the frame. Externally, equipment boxes are replaced in the back of the main gear bays, the legs are improved with additional parts, some of which requires lengths of 0.8mm rod to be added. The bay doors are also updated, as is the nose gear bay with copious wiring on one side. The main gear retraction struts are also detailed with stencils, wiring and tie-down lugs. F-104A SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48063) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The printed set incorporates the instrument panels, side consoles, other instruments, placards, and a complicated web of belts around the usual PE belts for the pilot plus pull-handles for the ejection mechanism. The PE fret contains the aforementioned belts; additional levers for the panel; rudder pedals; a skin for the throttle quadrant and nearby document slots; details around the cockpit sills; small parts for the coaming; latch rails for the canopy sides, and a new set of in-scale rear-view mirrors. F-104C Interior (491267) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other bare brass, and both are very similar to the A set above. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the rear cabin are in full colour; the ejection seat stirrups are removed and replaced by new PE parts, with a stencil added to the back between seat and headbox. The cockpit sills are decorated with many small parts, some painted, others bare; the large avionics box behind the pilot is augmented with detail skins after removing the raised sections, replacing those with new PE parts later on, and a detailed underside to the cover, surround and other details. The coaming is upgraded with small PE parts, new rudder pedals are placed in the foot well, and a tiny triangular web is inserted into the back of the cockpit area. The canopy receives latching rails along the sides, plus new in-scale rear-view mirrors, and a printed card that is stuffed into the front left corner of the frame. Externally, equipment boxes are replaced in the back of the main gear bays, the legs are improved with additional parts, some of which requires some lengths of 0.8mm rod. The bay doors are also updated, as is the nose gear bay with copious wiring on one side. The main gear retraction struts are also detailed with stencils, wiring and tie-down lugs. F-104C SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48064) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The printed set incorporates the subtly different instrument panels, side consoles, other instruments, placards, and a complicated web of belts around the usual PE belts for the pilot plus pull-handles for the ejection mechanism. The PE fret contains the aforementioned belts; additional levers for the panel; rudder pedals; a skin for the throttle quadrant and nearby document slots; details around the cockpit sills; small parts for the coaming; latch rails for the canopy sides, and a new set of in-scale rear-view mirrors. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1270) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the standard set of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles that gets him out of there in case of an emergency, and the additional straps to the sides of the main belts. Masks (EX850) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX851) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  17. OV-10D+ Upgrade Sets (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard All praise ICM for providing us with a modern quarter scale OV-10 Bronco over the last few years, with so many variants that there can’t be all that many options that aren’t yet catered for – maybe a Luftwaffe one would be nice? I know at least one sale they’d make there. The current latest is the OV-10D+, which saw some of the most recent use by the US Marines after upgrading from earlier models. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48062) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The seats are upgraded first with PE seatbelts for both crew members plus other detail updates including rudder pedals and ejector handles, then the focus shifts to the extensive and highly visible instrument panels, side consoles and equipment boxes within the cockpit, which are incredibly well-detailed and are in 3D relief that is much more appealing than flat PE or moulded-in styrene. More equipment is added to the windscreen interior by way of a 3D printed panel, with traditional PE added to the inside of the four expansive side windows, which should be painted before installation as they will be seen through the glazing once complete. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1265) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles to the side of the pilot's knees that gets them out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX846) Supplied on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curves in the roof glazing handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. Masks Tface (EX847) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. They will be especially effective when used in conjunction with the PE details added to the windows as mentioned in the above SPACE set. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Hello guys, I was able to finish the Pulqui 2 last weekend. Here it is with the mainstream Academy Ta 183. Both are in 1:48.
  19. SR-71 Blackbird Update Sets (For Revell) 1:48 Eduard Revell made a lot of people happy when they released their new tool of the sleek SR-71 Blackbird in 1:48 scale, consigning most of the old Testors kits to eBay or deep stash, mine included. It’s a big improvement in terms of constructional rigidity and detail, but there’s always room to improve on injection moulded plastic. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in their usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491251) Two frets are included, both nickel-plated and pre-painted. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles with added levers for both of the cockpits in full colour with small areas of acetate sheet used in the process; floor and sidewall skins for them both; a big upgrade to the ejection seat rails on the back of the seats and in the rear of the cockpits, plus control details; side-pockets for the cockpits; plus canopy internal details and rear-view mirrors. Zoom! Set (FE1251) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main visible aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48059) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed sheet includes a full set of instrument panels and side consoles in glorious colour and with relief engineered in, while the PE sheet has a full set of four-point seatbelts and pull-handles for both seats; additional levers for the throttle quadrants; rudder pedal boots; additional equipment in the rear cockpit that is removed earlier; side-pockets; rear-view mirrors and a flip-up tray with a foil/styrene(?) surface that you should prepare from your own stocks. The gloss on the screens in the instrument panels is so realistic, which is one of the reasons I’m such a big fan of the range - the photos don't do them justice. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1252) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles between the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX836) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the exterior of the canopy. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX837) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior an appropriate colour and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  20. A6M2 Zero Model 21 Folding Wingtips PRINT (648731) 1:48 Eduard In case it has escaped your notice, Eduard have released a brand-new tooling of the Mitsubishi Zero in 1:48, and it’s a complete peach of a kit. You can see our review here, and my (presently stalled) build here. We’ve reviews a bunch of update sets already here, some of which I've used on my build, but now we have another from their new PRINT range, which is directly 3D printed and highly detailed. As usual with Eduard's smaller sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The parts are further protected in a crystal-clear plastic box that should be capable of resisting all but the most punishing of impacts. The set includes a pair of new 3D printed wingtips with moulded-in internal ribbing visible from the break-point, plus another pair of 3D printed rib-ends for the inner-wing that have a large tab to hold them in position. You also have the choice of a simpler join that utilises the ribs from the supplied Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, which has a different cut-point, with both of them shown in scrap diagrams that have the sections to be removed marked in red so there's no confusion. You reuse the clear wingtip lights from the kit of course, and there is a painting guide for the interior parts to ensure you get things right. You can see very fine layer marks on the smooth sections of the wingtip skin, but in my experience those disappear after a layer or two of paint, with any stubborn marks responding to a light sanding by vanishing diligently. Most impressive. If this new range of PRINT sets keeps going in this manner, we should see a lot more of them, and they should sell like hot cakes. Now I'm hungry. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. So this is what happens when I get an idea in my head and get carried away. I had a look at an "in-box" review of Airfix's new tool Vampire and realised it was designed in such a way that would make a conversion really easy. I bought myself a kit and prepared my CAD mouse. Being fairly organised, I have a spreadsheet with all the kits I plan to build, needless to say, this was not on that list - but I've really enjoyed both the CAD, 3D printing and the kit itself. I decided I wanted something a bit different for the colour scheme, so I chose the Swiss markings (and I'm glad I did). It was brush painted with Hataka Medium Sea Grey on top and Ztracrylic PRU blue beneath, the Swiss cross markings were masked and the decals came from spares. Weathered using Mig Panel Line Wash. I've tried a couple new techniques; firstly, I bought an airbrush, so the satin varnish is airbrushed and, secondly, I am now taking photos using my airbrush spray booth and a big bit of blue-grey card - I'm very happy pleased with the overall result Thanks for looking - and these conversions are available to purchase from me! Ben
  22. Hi all. My model club is currently running an informal group build with the theme "My First Car". My first car was a 1974 Renault 12TL which I bought in 1978. Back then, second-hand foreign cars were much cheaper to buy than British ones . Here we are in action at a Rugby Motor Club 'trial' (by the end of the event, the front number plate was completely off). Having decided to build this as a model, I had to find a kit. This proved to be quite easy - a quick search on eBay brought up a gentleman in France who sells (and presumably makes), resin body shells. The shell has a few surface imperfections, but overall is actually quite nice. Better still, it doesn't represent a competition vehicle (as many resin shells do), and so the only surgery I will need to perform will be the removal of two unwanted fog lights. For the running gear and internals I'll be using bits from similar Airfix kits (mainly their Mk.1 Escort), which possibly may also help with the glazing. We shall see... Unfortunately, by this point of the GB year, I've got a backlog of builds and so I won't be able to start this one for at least 2 months. I'll see you later. Cheers
  23. Bf.109E-4 SPACE 3D Cockpit Set (3DL48049) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really increases the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed decals are on a small sheet, with the two sections of instrument panel covered with brand new printed panels with glossy dials and lots of detail. Each section has an additional layer for extra detail, and they also have some PE levers added later. The port cockpit side has a long rectangular ancillary panel applied over the original after sanding or scraping back of the original moulding, then the pilot’s seat is outfitted with a set of painted PE seatbelts with comfort pads and a nickel-plated oval pass-through grommet where the harness passes through. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. US Mk.17 Depth Charges (648691) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The AN-Mk.17 Mod.2 depth charge was used by the US Navy during WWII, carrying 325lbs of either TNT or Torpex in a cylindrical casing with welded-on dome head, and having a drum-shaped tail fin for stabilisation during flight from the launching aircraft. A small spinner armed the fuse on the side as the weapon fell, and the single suspension lug was a triangular bracket welded to the body. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in a shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This is one of Eduard’s new Castless Print sub-variant, and the resin parts are SLA printed directly from the CAD files. Inside the box are two units that have already been removed from their bases, with just a fraction of a millimetre of the support lattice still visible on the bottom of the fin ring, which will be the work of moments with a sanding stick to remove. The charges are ostensibly complete save for the spinner on the nose, which is made from two PE parts and a short length of 0.4mm rod from your own stocks. The blades on the spinner will need twisting slightly with a pair of tweezers, then a PE ring is added to the front and the spinner is slipped over the rod and is glued in place. The front of the instruction sheet has a colour diagram showing the painting of the depth charges with their usual Gunze colour call-outs, plus the location of the few stencils that are applied to the finished article from the small sheet that accompanies the set. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Chipmunk T.10 Detail Upgrades (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard We 1:48 modellers have all been happy happy joy joy about the reasonably recent Airfix De Havilland Chipmunk in our favourite scale, and now have some the aftermarket to add to it. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), Brassin resin and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48048) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D decal sheet contains a pair of instrument panels for the pilots with a small number of additional shaped panels to be fitted around the cockpit, plus placards and the occasional dial. The PE sheet has the four-point seatbelts for both pilots, and a semi-recessed adjustment wheel on the port side of each seat. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish. Chipmunk T.10 Upgrade Set (491225) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and auxiliary controls are the primary parts on the painted set, with a frame around each seat and adjustment wheel set into the frame; small details within the cockpit such as throttle box; a shroud for the port side of the engine; new dual-layer cowlings for the engine bay that should be curved to shape using the kit parts as a template to be propped open by some 0.6mm rod from your stores; strengthening straps around the fuselage at the rear of the wing root and along the tail fin fillet, plus a few appliqué panels. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish, and a perforated brace that is slipped into the rear of the canopy that can be glued similarly. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1226) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The small fret contains the four-point belts for both pilots, requiring the removal of a little styrene where the belts pass through the sides of the seat. Masks (EX809) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape, with the blown canopy side panels handled by X-shaped cuts that you’ll need to fill in the gaps once it is burnished down. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Tface Masks (EX810) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with curved handled as above. As previously, you also get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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