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  1. Good evening everyone. The de Havilland Sea Vixen is an aircraft of singular appearance is it not? You notice it. The sweep and curve of its geometry. Formed not only from the requirements of naval aviation but (covertly, one suspects) from those1950s fantasies about how fast and silver a technological future would look. It was the kind of aircraft Captain Scarlet would have trained on and was capable, if required, of protecting the Earth from UFO invasion. At least I think so. I'm going to build two of them partly for the aforementioned reasons, and partly as a way of celebrating the friendship and generosity to be found on this forum. (More on that in a bit.) For now though, posting this in full view means there's no bottling out. Choice of Subject Having wanted to build one these for a long while, I'd been collecting various bits and pieces and images without (as often happens) a definite subject in mind. Always liking a build to be rooted in a meaningful narrative of some kind, I was leafing through some of the entries in the Dorset Crashes site and noted that a FAW.1 (XN708, from 890 Sqn) had gone down in Lyme Bay on the night of 25th November, 1964, killing both crew: Lt Michael J.W. Durrant RN. & Lt Basil A.Last RN. We can sometimes be guilty of building things only to celebrate the notable or the heroic in conflict; in this case it seemed fitting to build something to note those who end uncelebrated in the footnotes of history as peacetime or training casualties. This is the only clearly identifiable shot I've found so far of XN708/R244, original date of photo unknown: Image credit: Imgaylard Brian Patterson has an excellent colour gallery of a sister aircraft here though that will doubtless prove highly useful as references. For the second choice, I'm (as frequently the case in matters of naval aviation) indebted to @Ex-FAAWAFU for drawing to my attention the powerful, nay provocative, black & white diagonal scheme of XJ481 when undertaking Martel trials: Image credit: Roger Winser This has not only the challenge of building a replacement nose to incorporate that camera housing and a Martel to scratch up (I knows there's a 1/72 resin one out there but think the fins are too thick) but a snazzy 'dazzle paint' work to do also, for which @Terry1954 has also kindly supplied some colour references. The Kits I'm going to modify both the venerable 1/72 Frog offering and use the High Planes kit, which has a FAW.1 option. I'd mentioned above that this build was in part a celebration of the generosity no be found on this forum. Let me start by detailing such matters here: The High Planes kit was sent to me some time ago by @Procopius. How gracious is that? Thank-you Edward for this kindness. As a young shaver on the forum, not long after joining I'd mused aloud in a thread about the absence of FAW.1s in 1/72 and been overwhelmed by a (characteristically) generous influx of references and diagrams from both @71chally and @canberra kid regarding the feasibility of modifying the Frog kit. The fruits of these discussions are posted here and I must reread them myself prior to commencing any work in this direction! If you've had a look at Brian Patterson's colour shots above you'll notice prominent in one of them is a Palouste starter. I never used to know about these until seeing @perdu resinate superb examples in his Buccaneer build. Not only that but again without saying anything he'd tucked some of his output away in a package he sent and so I'll be proud to use one of his Paloustes in this project. Thanks Bill! The High Planes kit first: As it says on the box: In fairness I see 'adjustment of parts required' on every kit I buy.... I haven't looked closely-enough at the canopy yet to make any decisions regarding suitablility: Some replacement Aries wheels (I'd forgotten I'd bought them) to replace the originals: The Frog File: Check out the crazy patterning all over the plastic. Weird.... That nose: Subject of much discussion with John and James on the original thread, as might be imagined.... How to '1 a '2: Picked this up dirt cheap of 5thletter bay many moons ago. Think that resin is the 'Final Touch' set (?) but no idea about the white metal provenance. Wheels and legs don't impress: The Airwaves stuff was in the Frog box when I bought it, honest guv: Vaguely possible one or two of those bits may prove of use but certainly not the grotty wingfold. Here's what's really going to offset a diorama - a beautifully perduced Palouste: The markings on both aircraft will be painted rather than decals, but thankfully I've the Model Alliance decal set for the Ark's air wing that I can snaffle the moonlit witches from for the 890 Sqn Vixen: I'm aware of multiple issues with correcting the Frog to a FAW.1, but the High Planes I believe is to be generally trusted in shape terms? (Please correct me if wrong on the latter point). There will of course need to be a wingfold involved somewhere but this has given me a pause for thought: the colour scheme of the Martel-tester is so good that the wings on that one will have to be fully extended to display this handsome plumage, so XN708 will be the one to get the folding treatment, though which kit do do which with (if you see what I mean)? The Frog is moulded with the break in the wings where the fold is so a natural candidate, yet one with such problems in its nose area that this really makes it a better candidate for (the unfolded) XJ481 viz. a totally new and angular schnozz. I'm sure that the High Planes kit can be 'persuaded' to fold so: High Planes = XN708/Palouste (wingfolded) Frog = XJ481/Martel (non-folded) Nearly forgot. XN708 will have the RR Avons visible. So I'll be building 1/72 Avons as well.... References As standard for me, along with contemporary photographs, will be working from original technical documentation, namely several thousand pages of these: I've all 4 volumes of the above, plus: - for the engine build. As the technical manuals are obviously for the FAW.2, help with that handful of specific differences such as canopy etc comes in the form of relevant sections from the FAW.1 manuals generously provided previously by John (@canberra kid). Who else? I'm hoping to have the current Anson build finished by the Autumn so if you've nothing planned for those long winter evenings you'd be very welcome to pull up a Palouste and keep me company here. Thanks for reading, as always. Tony
  2. Hi all. My model club is currently running an informal group build with the theme "My First Car". My first car was a 1974 Renault 12TL which I bought in 1978. Back then, second-hand foreign cars were much cheaper to buy than British ones . Here we are in action at a Rugby Motor Club 'trial' (by the end of the event, the front number plate was completely off). Having decided to build this as a model, I had to find a kit. This proved to be quite easy - a quick search on eBay brought up a gentleman in France who sells (and presumably makes), resin body shells. The shell has a few surface imperfections, but overall is actually quite nice. Better still, it doesn't represent a competition vehicle (as many resin shells do), and so the only surgery I will need to perform will be the removal of two unwanted fog lights. For the running gear and internals I'll be using bits from similar Airfix kits (mainly their Mk.1 Escort), which possibly may also help with the glazing. We shall see... Unfortunately, by this point of the GB year, I've got a backlog of builds and so I won't be able to start this one for at least 2 months. I'll see you later. Cheers
  3. Bf.109E-4 SPACE 3D Cockpit Set (3DL48049) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really increases the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed decals are on a small sheet, with the two sections of instrument panel covered with brand new printed panels with glossy dials and lots of detail. Each section has an additional layer for extra detail, and they also have some PE levers added later. The port cockpit side has a long rectangular ancillary panel applied over the original after sanding or scraping back of the original moulding, then the pilot’s seat is outfitted with a set of painted PE seatbelts with comfort pads and a nickel-plated oval pass-through grommet where the harness passes through. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. US Mk.17 Depth Charges (648691) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The AN-Mk.17 Mod.2 depth charge was used by the US Navy during WWII, carrying 325lbs of either TNT or Torpex in a cylindrical casing with welded-on dome head, and having a drum-shaped tail fin for stabilisation during flight from the launching aircraft. A small spinner armed the fuse on the side as the weapon fell, and the single suspension lug was a triangular bracket welded to the body. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in a shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This is one of Eduard’s new Castless Print sub-variant, and the resin parts are SLA printed directly from the CAD files. Inside the box are two units that have already been removed from their bases, with just a fraction of a millimetre of the support lattice still visible on the bottom of the fin ring, which will be the work of moments with a sanding stick to remove. The charges are ostensibly complete save for the spinner on the nose, which is made from two PE parts and a short length of 0.4mm rod from your own stocks. The blades on the spinner will need twisting slightly with a pair of tweezers, then a PE ring is added to the front and the spinner is slipped over the rod and is glued in place. The front of the instruction sheet has a colour diagram showing the painting of the depth charges with their usual Gunze colour call-outs, plus the location of the few stencils that are applied to the finished article from the small sheet that accompanies the set. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Chipmunk T.10 Detail Upgrades (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard We 1:48 modellers have all been happy happy joy joy about the reasonably recent Airfix De Havilland Chipmunk in our favourite scale, and now have some the aftermarket to add to it. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), Brassin resin and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48048) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D decal sheet contains a pair of instrument panels for the pilots with a small number of additional shaped panels to be fitted around the cockpit, plus placards and the occasional dial. The PE sheet has the four-point seatbelts for both pilots, and a semi-recessed adjustment wheel on the port side of each seat. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish. Chipmunk T.10 Upgrade Set (491225) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and auxiliary controls are the primary parts on the painted set, with a frame around each seat and adjustment wheel set into the frame; small details within the cockpit such as throttle box; a shroud for the port side of the engine; new dual-layer cowlings for the engine bay that should be curved to shape using the kit parts as a template to be propped open by some 0.6mm rod from your stores; strengthening straps around the fuselage at the rear of the wing root and along the tail fin fillet, plus a few appliqué panels. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish, and a perforated brace that is slipped into the rear of the canopy that can be glued similarly. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1226) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The small fret contains the four-point belts for both pilots, requiring the removal of a little styrene where the belts pass through the sides of the seat. Masks (EX809) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape, with the blown canopy side panels handled by X-shaped cuts that you’ll need to fill in the gaps once it is burnished down. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Tface Masks (EX810) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with curved handled as above. As previously, you also get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Tempest Mk.II Landing Flaps (648686 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Following the release of Eduard’s brand-new range of Hawker Tempests in 1:48, their latest Mk.II has been showered with priase from the modelling community and aftermarket from their own stable, allowing the modeller to add as much or as little as they’d like to augment the already exemplary detail of their kits. There is a small over-printing on the box, which says Print – Castless Brassin, which is new for Eduard, and the set arrives in their shallow cardboard box, which is better for the environment than their old plastic clamshells. This new style of flap sets embraces the march of technology in the field of 3D resin printing (SLA printing to those in the know), and presses it into service to create highly detailed flaps as single parts with all the detail already present. All that is required of the modeller is to free it from the finger-like attachment points that secure it to the printing platform during production. A quick wash in warm soapy water will help to remove any lingering residue from the parts, although they will have already been cleaned with IPA (not beer) at the factory. This reduction in workload for the modeller then leaves them to carry out the removal of the retracted flap surfaces from the lower wing, then scrape the upper wing edges thinner to accommodate the thickness of the PE bay skins. The PE bays have their fronts folded up to create the hinge area, and are then glued to the inside of the upper wing, with the flaps attached to the rear wall of the new bay, using small tabs to strengthen the bond. Repeat this for the other side, and you're done with construction. Simplification of the process makes adding deployed flaps much more appealing, and the more robust flaps will stand up to painting and handling much better than fragile glued-together PE. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Mig-21R SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48042 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set is patterned for Eduard’s own Mig-21R kit that has been re-released recently, and has a full set of insanely detailed 3D instrument panels for the main IP and the side consoles on the decal sheet, plus some additional parts of the harness and arms for the ejection seat. The PE sheet contains sills for the cockpit; additional small instruments and equipment for the cockpit sidewalls; smaller parts for the main IP; a set of seatbelts to merge with the 3D cushioned harness; stencils and ejection pull-handles for the seat; new rudder pedals; horseshoe-shaped lip for the rear cockpit aperture; sensors for the exterior; another hoop for the windscreen and extensive details for within the interior of the canopy, some of which are 3D decals. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Spitfire Mk.XVI SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48041 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set is engineered for their own 1:48 Mk.XVI kit that is still pretty new to the market. The 3D printed sheet contains a full instrument panel in relief, with a separate part in the central section; a new compass face; ribbed cushion for the pilot’s seat; equipment on the cockpit sidewalls, and a prominent run of four red-brown cables running along the right side of the cockpit, coming up from the footwell and disappearing into the throttle box. The PE sheet contains a mount for the compass; head and seat armour for the seat; a full set of harnesses for the pilot; various small parts around the cockpit; door operating mechanism; canopy winder and a pull handle to close or open it manually. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hello everyone. I don't get on this part of the forum very often as my builds tend to be rather prolonged affairs, but here we are: this is my attempt at building an accurate Sea Vixen FAW.1 at 1/72 scale. A full account of the research materials and design process can be found on the WIP here: The build originally started out nearly two years ago with the original intention of modifying two existing kits (an approach which I pretty soon abandoned on grounds of quality/accuracy),deciding instead to design my own. Shown here is the result of 3d printing with some homebrew PE and vacforming for details. A few other details like pylon braces were hand-made from brass, whilst custom masks and decals were produced to handle the colour work. The designs for this aircraft were produced from a combination of photo-interpretation and the aircraft maintenance manuals - each indispensable in confirming the details of the other - using Fusion 360. I've no background in CAD, or 3d printing - or even making your own brass etch - so the whole undertaking turned out to be a major learning exercise on multiple fronts as different sets design problems arose and needed to be resolved. The aircraft here is actually the first of two FAW.1 designs that I've produced; I'll talk a little more at the end of his post about the next one. Aside from the encouragement of a regular bunch of knowledgeable and generous friends on here, there are specific individuals that I need (as always, I never consider anything I do on here solely 'mine' so much as the result of shared knowledge) to single out for thanks. @71chally - in my view the peerless historian of this de Havilland aircraft made sure that I had the bumps and colours of this aircraft correct. @Navy Bird provided support in the early days of the project and proved (should proof be needed) of how generous modellers are with information. @canberra kid as usual seems to have every British aircraft manual under the sun and filled in the blanks most decently with the pages missing from my own copy. @hendie was - with the routine resin masterpieces that he casually lobs into his builds - the single biggest influence on me turning to 3d printing and has by this stage cost me a bloody fortune in tools over the years.... The following photos then show my reproduction of XJ481, an early production Vixen that ended up being co-opted as a trials aircraft in the late 60s, at which time she received this bold diagonal scheme for work on trials of the Martel missile system. The paint scheme shown here is intended to represent the appearance of the aircraft circa 1970; a more detailed service history being available on the FAA Museum site here. Studio photos to start with then showing some of the details: My personal preference remains the use of daylight in terms of judging the effectiveness of my work in relation to the actual aircraft: Next up over on the WIP will be XN708, a later production version of the FAW.1 that was lost on night exercises in Lyme Bay in 1964. This one will be built as a full display version with wingfolds, moving radar and removable Avon engines: It's already printed - I just need to get cracking and build the thing! Thanks for looking in. Take care, Tony
  10. Sopwith Camel 20lb Bomb Carrier (648662 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Print At the beginning of WWI it had barely occurred to the combatants to use aircraft as anything other than rudimentary reconnaissance platforms, but as time went by the crews began carrying pistols, then rifles, and eventually bombs. Initially, the bombs were lobbed from the cockpit by hand at ad hoc targets, but as time marched on the aircraft became more capable and racks were created to make dropping the ordnance more predictable and accurate. The Camel’s rack could carry four 20lb bombs with remote release from the cockpit, turning the Camel into a true ground attack aircraft. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in the new shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, a piece of foam and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This set is augmented with a “Brassin Print” label, due to the fact that that these delicate parts have been printed directly, rather than cast from 3D printed masters. Inside the box are five resin parts (it’s still resin after all), plus a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass. The finesse of the rack is incredible, and will take some care to remove from the webwork that connects it to the base. The bombs are attached to their base at their fins, and when cut free these parts are linked to the rack by a pin that fits into a socket on the bomb rack. Each bomb has a small PE clip affixed at the front between it and the rack, which prevents the arming spinner from rotating in the aircraft’s slipstream until the bomb is released from the rack. The rack attaches to the model by four rectangular pads that mate with depressions on the underside of the fuselage, completing the assembly. Colour call-outs are given throughout in Eduard’s usual brand of choice, Gunze Sangyo in order to do justice to the detail in this set. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. I recently started a subscription at loot-studios to get some nice Fantasy Miniatures for printing at home. I decided that I want to improve my painting skills with this glorious lady. after printing, cleaning and curing I primed with Vallejo black primer and gave her a zenithal Highlight with white to bring out the details. It‘s just amazing how detailed the figure is! I mean… look at her face! just kidding! loot gives you files rendered in 32mm 75mm and as a bust. my plan is to start with the 32mm version and then go bigger and bigger keeping the paint scheme the same but improving on details, blends and so on. And hopefully this will result in me getting better even in smaller scales. the priming revealed some flaws like layer marks and support stubs that need to be cleaned up. here is the 32mm: 75mm: and the bust: I have not decided on all the colors jet, but she will have a Caucasian skin tone, dark hair and green eyes. that’s it for now cheers Konrad
  12. AVRO Vulcan Olympus Engine Fronts for 301 & 201 Variants 1:72 Member FZ6 Airfix have made a lot of Cold War modellers happy by producing a brand-new tooling of the iconic and beloved AVRO Vulcan using modern tooling methods in 1:72, completing their V-bomber trio in that scale. One of our members FZ6, who we’ll call Mark for our purposes has been beavering away in the background to create a set of engine fronts for the 201 variant of the Olympus engine with its smaller bullet fairing that is missing from the kit, and he also made up the 301 variant as well while he was at it. The reasoning behind this is that with 3D printing you can make a more detailed rendition of the intake fans and stator blades, and as Airfix have included both exhaust sections but not provided 201 engine fronts, it would give him and our members a bit more scope for modelling their favourite airframes. Mark has designed these sets to be an almost drop-in replacement for the kit parts, and each front consists of three layers that installs in a figure-of-eight double cup that fits over the rear end of the kit intake trunking, with two in each side. The holder has a gap in the inner edge to avoid fouling the bomb bay, but some sanding may be required to fine-tune the fit, so test-fitting is advisable. The second compressor face and forward fan are common between the two engine types, with just the front stators with bullet fairing swapped out to create 201 or 301 engines, and each of the two front layers will need sanding back to remove the carrier material and open up the triangular spaces between the blades. As you can see from the photos, I have done this for some of the parts as part of the review process, and I used an aggressive sanding stick to abrade the extra thickness from the parts quickly, which is easy to differentiate because it projects beyond the edge of the part slightly. Once the parts are prepped, sanding dust removed and after a brief scrub with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), it’s simply a case of painting them up and gluing the three layers into the holders with super glue (CA), then gluing the assembly into the painted intake trunking. Even though Airfix provide the 301 engine fronts in the kit, these replacements are much more detailed thanks to their part-count and the finesse of modern at-home 3D Stereo Lithography printing, commonly known as SLA. It is worthwhile replacing those parts for the detail improvement alone, but as previously mentioned, the addition of the 201 engines gives the modeller more breadth of subjects to choose markings from. Don’t forget to line up the stator blades on the front layer before adding the glue (I didn’t because I forgot, but they weren’t glued), as those tended to stay still in the trunking unless the engine was in the process of exploding. Conclusion The parts are well designed and printed, with no visible layering where it will be seen, and the only clean-up involves the removal of the backing carrier layers from the two front parts. If you have a new Airfix Vulcan, you’d be well-advised to pick up a set of these by having a chat with Mark on the forum. He’ll sell you 201 or 301 or both as you require. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Mark’s good nature. Click the link below to visit his forum profile. [insert the FZ6 logo here when he becomes rich and famous]
  13. Recently, I built four 3D printed prototypes of the upcoming 1/144 Beacon Models Spitfire Mkia kit. Being 3D printed prototypes, these will have been more challenging then the final product is going to be and aren’t fully representative of that either. They went together pretty well and are nicely detailed for the scale. The canopy parts were very thin, which was a challenge due to the 3D printed resin material, I cracked two of the spares I was provided with. The surface detail is very nice, panel lines are pretty good for the scale (I emphasised them with a dark wash). The only problem I can report is that I’m going to have to wait a while until the plastic version is on sale before I can start building about 10 boxes of these. I think another modeller is building the Mkiia version now, also 3D printed prototypes. The roundels have a bit of a white outline, but these aren’t the final versions, which will be printed by Cartograf. The first one which would become SH-W
  14. Latest in a line of Prints I'm doing from Archvillain Games Patreon Circus Grotesque. I've printed these with a slight reduction to make them 28mm scale which is what we use in our D&D group. 3 hour total paint time, all painted using Scale 75 acrylics and FW inks Thanks for looking Sean
  15. Another figure from the Circus Grotesque, Raza the Fortune Teller Again she has been shrunk to be 28mm scale and is still 90mm tall..... 3.5 hour paint job, painted in my favourite paints, Scale 75 acrylics and FW inks Thanks for looking Sean
  16. " Things have become a little rougher, ugly and now we need a law enforcement unit capable of meeting the enemy on his own ground, and carrying enough fire power to get the job done." " Ladies and gentlemen, with great pleasure, i introduce ROBOCOP 2" The Old Man Hi fellow modellers. A few months ago i decided to get the 3d print files for Robocain from Robocop 2. The problem was i never actually had the time to start the project. With the current situation that the world is in, I have more time at home and i can finally get started. I know this project is going to take along time and i hope that you enjoy seeing my progress. The model will be in a 1/6 scale, which will make him over 40cm high ( go big or go home, i guess ). The printer i will be using is my trusty Creality Ender 3. The only things i have done is print a better parts cooling fan and change the board to make it quieter I know their are some other people in the forum that are doing the same build and cannot wait to share our problems, and solutions to those problems with each other. So my first pics The majority of the first things to print were the actual support structure and framing for this guy. Most of this you won't see but between that and the M3 bolts, he's built to last and that's a good thing in my household. So once the frame for the upper body is complete, you can then start to get some of the panels on. This is then gives you an idea of how your frame is and where trimming and straightening is required. The one downside to 3d printing is, if you don't get your settings dialled in, you will be sanding and sanding to remove the print lines. I suffered with this until i realised i had set my printer settings up wrong, so please ignore those nasty lines So up to this point, the build has been small to medium prints that only took between 1/2 hr to 2 hrs a piece. The first big print was the 2 half's of his upper chest armour. With a combined print of about 12hrs this was the first big and visible piece to be printed ( not including the head part ) The chest is 3 different parts and when i fitted them together they just didn't look right. Looking at pics online, it showed that the 3 pieces are one big piece. So i decided to glue them together and fill in the gap, which was the reason i think it looked wrong Once the upper body was done, i decided to move to the minigun and ram arm Once this part was done, i couldn't resist connecting it to the upper body and see how it looks. Oh btw its starting to get heavy lol Hope you have enjoyed this post and will post up when the next bit is done Stay Safe
  17. Another super fast but effective paint job for my D&D Games Master for an up-coming game when Covid is replaced again by Brexit..... All done with Daler Rowney Fluorescent FW inks on a gloss black base, using nothing but an airbrush. He maxed out the build height of my printer at 155mm tall. Thanks for looking Sean
  18. Afternoon all, Like most modellers, I do love to be surrounded in tiny little cute things, so it has been wonderful becoming a dad this year. That said, the modelling has definitely suffered, and will continue to I suspect! The ray of light has been 3d design, and of late I have spent many a happy 5am with Minime strapped in the sling tinkering with CAD, when I should have probably been playing Mozart or doing baby yoga. I've got quite a few of these in the pipeline, and heaven knows when I shall get round to building them. This one has been done in frantic snatched half hours (I do not like modelling with a deadline) and I'm not very happy with the finish, but happy with the proof of concept - it looks like a plane, it looks quite like a Mooney, and hopefully better builds will follow! There's a huge essay to be written on this process but I will refrain from verbiage until I get the chance to do a WiP on one of these projects. I have been concentrating on designs with no known kit - as you would - and GA is fertile ground. There is an old Bandai kit of the Mooney in 1:48, but that is the original, short body version. The M20J is one of the most numerous Mooneys and I would say highly representative. It is much loved aeroplane, judging by the number of proud owners posting videos on YouTube of their undercarriage (most informative too), and sad to know that Mooney finally shut up shop last year. Anyway, here is a Mooney: TTFN, Harry
  19. Finished this commission gift for our D&D groups DM up today, 3 hour time limit, CMYK and white Primary colours only from Scale 75 Artists range. For those that don't know this is Durnan, the Bar Keep at the Yawning Portal, and for the cost of 1 Gold coin you can ride the bucket down the yawning portal and strike out on your own adventure, most never come back, those that do are forever changed...... Anyhoo, back in the real world..... Some rough freehand, painted upside down with no easy access, so I have a rubbish excuse...... Thanks for looking Sean
  20. Evening, Another in a series of small general aviation 1:72 models that I have been designing and 3d printing to keep 2020 interesting...and what better to model in 2020 than the Pipistrel Virus? (Actually it's pronounced Veerus). This is a dinky plane with a lovely bird like fuselage that reminds me of an Etrich Taube. I think it deserves a model, it's quite a thing if you are unfamiliar - 140kt cruise at a claimed 48 nautical miles per gallon. 1000 or so have been manufactured so far, including 194 to India where it is the air force basic trainer. And happily, one flew over my house last week (once you've modelled one you can definitely spot them). This is the parts breakdown: Thanks for stopping by! Harry
  21. Hi: Here you got my take on the smaller member of the AT family: the AT-PT. The model was CAD designed using Fusion360 and 3D printed with an Anycubic Photon resin 3D printer. These are all the required parts for this build. Please note all these pics show the naked model. No special post processing was required but removing the printing support trees. For comparaison purposes here we got the AT-PT body with the Imperial officer figure included in the Fine Molds 1:48th scale Tie figther kit. Compared to its bigger brothers, the migthy AT-AT and the double seat AT-ST, the single seat AT-PT looks like an imperial scooter. The source inspiration for this model came from the ancient Lucasarts video games. The simple lines reveals its digital nature but it is a rather appealing design for me at least. I have not decided a paint scheme yet. Plenty of options to choose from! That´s all for now so constructive comments are welcomed. Thanks for watching! Regards! Alvaro
  22. Having bought an Anycubic Photon after Bootneck kindly pointed out they were on offer, I have been printing away for about 3 weeks. So now is the time to take the plunge and build someting that I've printed. I had been quietly watching StevenBills build of the Y-Wing using his Elegoo Mars and this got my interest up in building a Star Wars ship, the CG model was bought from CGTrader (same author as Steves Y-Wing) and away I went. A couple of weeks of printing got me here: Scalewise I thought I would revive the old 'Box scale' of the 50's, but this was going to be 'Printer scale' i.e. as big as the printer would handle. There were some issues along the way, mostly of my own doing, here is one of the main engines, correct on the left, failed print on the right: This was caused by the part next to it falling off the print bed, also the orientation of the part. Also I was getting a surface like cucumber skin: (Upper rear fuse parts) This was caused by orientation of the part on the print bed, the weight pulling the still soft resin out of shape. Most, if not all of the failures were caused by the orientation of the part on the printer bed, something I only realised part way through printing the kit so I've had to reprint a couple of parts and repair faults in others. Here is the difference that correct orientation makes, the two halves of the cockpit, correct orientation on the left, incorrect on the right. I've done some prep work on the resin (face mask firmly on ) sanding the flat surfaces to give better contact when assembling. The mating surfaces are not perfect, but better than most resin kits. As there are no instructions beyond an exploded view and some build photos I marked up some of the parts to avoid confusion. Thanks for looking in, Stuart
  23. Hey, Looking at the plethora of 3D model files available online, I as wondering if there is any established shopping place for printed minis? Having an own printer is out of question for several reasons but I'd be up paying for some printed stuff. Does anyone have a suggestion? I only saw Etsy so far but the offer is somewhat limited and Ebay has close to none, surprisingly. Many thanks in advance!
  24. Two designs proposed in A 1952 RAE report “An Investigation into an Aircraft to Fly at a Mach Number of 2, Aero.2462” 3D printed at 1/72 scale, painted with acrylics decals from spares First up, looking like the results of a liaison between an EE Lightning and an F-104. Design with engines in the fuselage which they really didn’t fancy
  25. Please be kind. I’m firmly at the foot of this particular learning curve so am aware there is a lot could be improved. Sharing just in case folks might be interested rather than for critique I’ve been experimenting with laser cutting, 3D printing and digital design so decided to apply a bit of that to model making (in progress thread here Sharing the most recent output. Convair XP-92 in 1/72 scale. Parts modelled in Fusion 360, printed on a Creality Ender 3 in grey PLA. Assembled with isocyanate and painted with acrylics. Drawings thanks to @Space Ranger and decals kindly donated by @Pat C. Thank you both
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