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  1. Hello everyone, My latest WiP will be a model of a TACR2 fire tender in 1:35 scale. It is a 3D printed kit and is produced by Pete at PHD Designs. RNAS Yeovilton 1986 cheers, Mike
  2. Hi All, Well this is unfamiliar territory! I am normally firmly in the wingy thing section, but this thread is to document my first 'commission' build. The parentheses indicate that nobody is actually paying for this build; rather, it is intended as a gift for my brother-in-law, who turns 50 soon. He spent over a decade working on the Combat Management System for the Hobart Class Air Warfare Destroyers, so I thought I'd attempt a rather unique gift for this significant anniversary. HMAS Hobart was the lead ship in this class, commissioned in 2017. Here's a photo of the ship: I'm going to be designing and 3D printing the whole lot, so it's sure to be a journey of discovery. I did download a 3D file from Shapeways, hoping for an easy win, but it turned out to be absolute bobbins, so I am going from scratch with a downloaded schematic, which at least looks like it could be accurate. Here's where I am with the blocked out upper hull design: I haven't yet achieved that distinctive swoop on the waist, which suggests that I need to tweak the lower hull profile - all will be good! The finished model will be about 250mm long and mounted in a display case. Detail will be progressively added before I commit to printing. I have until mid-June so time is short, although I shall not compromise on quality to achieve the delivery date. This should be fun! Thanks for looking, Roger
  3. Another small figure project. The figure is a bust, the first parts are just coming out of the resin printer. I'm still thinking about whether I should print the base with the filament printer, as it's quite sizeable. I'll have all the parts printed by the weekend. As for the color, it will probably be a pretty matte gold.
  4. P-51B/C Upgrade Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin We’ve just reviewed the new ‘razor-back’ Mustang in Limited Edition D-Day form here, and it’s a stunning kit, with lots of detail baked into the styrene. For those of us that want even more detail, Eduard have us covered with these new sets that include double-sided TFace masks for the two canopy styles (blown & framed), plus bronze gear legs, a seat, exhausts, wheels with a choice of tread patterns, and a comprehensive set of gun bay enhancements that will fill the spaces in the wings that are marked out on the kit parts. We have seven sets including the masks in to review, but there are plenty more available to tempt you to open your wallet, and if you pick them all up, you’ll need the bronze gear legs to cope with the additional weight! Gun Bays (648997) This largest set arrives in a large Brassin cardboard box, with the resin and Photo-Etch (PE) parts cocooned in their own Ziploc bags, protected by a pair of sheets of foam top and bottom, and the instruction booklet that is wrapped around the package during closure at the factory. There are twenty resin parts, and the fret of PE contains a few more, with sufficient parts to build a pair of handed gun bays, one for each wing. Detail is exquisite thanks to the 3D printed nature of most of the parts, requiring them to be cut away from the finger-like supports that prevent them sagging during printing, and link them to the flat print base underneath. The port bay is dealt with first, adding resin supports to the beautifully detailed bay shell, then mounting the breeches of the .50cal machine guns at an angle, wiring them to a resin actuator with some 0.2mm wire from your own supplies, totalling five in all that are picked out on the instructions in different colours to assist you with their location, while the lengths of the wires are called out on the individual drawings. The double run of ammunition that feeds the gun is printed as a single part for the narrower area of the bay, adding a separate section that curves around to orient itself with the breeches of the guns. The starboard wing is built in the same manner, only in mirror image, then the bay panels are shown being cut from the kit’s upper wing, following the thinned out lines on the interior of the parts, which is a great help. The bays are inserted into the corresponding recess in the lower wing, and the upper wing is placed over the top, adding PE strips to the forward edges of the ammo feeds, and a resin bay door in the vertical position, hinged forward, and with two PE latches sticking up that should be painted the same colour as the exterior of the wing, as should the bay doors. The other bay doors are also supplied, and are generally removed by the armourers to access the bays, then laid either on the wing or elsewhere nearby, ready to go back on once the reloading or maintenance job is complete. These parts are realistically thin, and have detail printed on both sides for realism. Colour call-outs in Gunze Sangyo paint codes are given through the build process, with acrylic and lacquer codes side-by-side. Wheels (Various Tread Patterns) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This 3D printed set contains two main wheels with separate outer hubs that are printed as a pair on a separate base, plus a rugged tail-wheel to fix to the kit struts. There are several sets available, but we have just the diamond treaded set that are pictured here. The other sets can be seen and/or purchased from the links below: Diamond Tread Seen Above (648986) Oval Tread (648987) Cross Tread (648988) Block Tread (648989) Diamond Tread 2 (648990) Each set also includes a sheet of pre-cut kabuki-tape masks for the wheels that allow you to cut perfect demarcations between the tyres and hubs of all the wheels with little effort. Exhaust Stacks (648992) Containing two drop-in replacements for the kit exhausts, these parts have finer detail and hollow tips that will give your model a more realistic look. As well as the parts pictured, there are also another type that has fairings around the pipes, which you can see by following the second link below: Exhaust Stacks with Fairing (648993) Undercarriage Legs BRONZE (648994) These replacement main gear legs for the Mustang offer extra strength and sharpness to your model, plus finer details such as the brake hoses and supports that can’t be moulded in injection styrene. They have minimal clean-up that will need to be done with a file due to the metal’s robust nature, and they also come with a full set of resin gear bay doors that are highly detailed and are closer to scale thickness than the kit parts. Seat Type 1 PRINT (6481002) A replacement 3D printed seat for your Mustang that provides more detail than the kit seat, plus a set of PE Steel four-point seatbelts for the pilot, complete with comfort pads under the buckles. There are two styles, the Type 2 can be seen by following the second link below: Seat Type 2 (6481003) Tface Masks Framed Canopy & Malcolm Hood (EX1036 & EX1037) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with any compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels and landing light, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. There is one set sold separately for each of the canopies used by the P-51B/C, known as the Framed Canopy and the Malcolm Hood, and they will give the canopies a very realistic look once completed and the masks removed. Framed Canopy (EX1036) Malcolm Hood (EX1037) Conclusion The detail is phenomenal on all the resin sets and their comparative simplicity of construction is commendable, while the masks ease the painting and preservation of the clarity of the canopy. Pick the sets that appeal to you or your budget, or go mad and get a raft of them to build the ultimate Mustang for your cabinet. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. This time I'm going to try my hand at a heavily armed space samurai warrior in 75 mm, I think the term samurai fits quite well, I'm still undecided about the color scheme. First I created a base on the PC and printed it out with the filament printer. The figure itself was bought and printed on my resin printer. Today the base coat and the first pictures. The hydraulic door locks come in separately
  6. Okay got myself another bit of 3D printed goodness, I've always wanted to make a judge dredd model, so as soon as I saw this cool bust I jumped at it! IMG_20240417_162912214 by Nick Frost, on Flickr It was a pretty good print, just a a bit of sanding here and there but with no support marks, only small thing I had to sort was a hole on the seam of his glove so I just re-sculpted over it with some green stuff. IMG_20240417_162929369 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240417_163406906 by Nick Frost, on Flickr With that done it was on to priming, so I sprayed him with some chaos black primer, and then I got some white laquer paint in the air brush and blasted over some white for a zenithal effect as a reference for my deep shadows and highlights. IMG_20240418_165013532 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240418_203253883 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Working on the inside out principal I started with his face (or what you can see of it!) This is the same process I use for most standard flesh, I start with a coat of bugmans glow IMG_20240420_195353862 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I mix 50/50 bugmans glow and cadian flesh and brush that over most of it except for the main shadow areas (this is very subtle as its a transition step to smooth the colours together) IMG_20240420_200541297 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then its pure cadian flesh and I'm brushing it over making sure to leave my shadow areas and not to cover all of the previous transition colour. IMG_20240420_200940512 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I start to establish highlights with a 50/50 mix of cadian flesh and kislev flesh IMG_20240420_201749703 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And now I accentuate the highlights with pure kislev flesh IMG_20240420_202127768 by Nick Frost, on Flickr At this point I want to give them lips a bit of warmth as thats where the blood is closest to the surface, so I did a 50/50 mix of mephiston red and vallejos deep magenta to get a purply red, then brush some of this into my kislev flesh and applied it to the lips. IMG_20240420_202759599 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I then mixed some vallejo bone white into the kislev flesh to push some of the highlights further. IMG_20240420_205525236 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240420_205532618 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I was pretty happy at this point so for now I moved away from it and got the base coat for the helmet and his suit done with some night lords blue IMG_20240421_102725574 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then once that was done I decided to move on to his visor as I thought that would help me get a better impression of how his face is looking, so I gave it a black coat, and then for the edge (which in the comics I believe is clear) I used a dark grey as a start point and using a few mixes with more and more white I highlighted it out from the middle working in smaller areas to leave the middle as the bright spot. IMG_20240421_194124560 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240421_194311775 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240421_195447378 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Oh I forgot to mention, also in the above photos, I highlighted his lip with some kislev flesh, and used a small dab of bone white to make his nose highlight brighter. Next I moved back to his suit and started adding the first highlight step by mixing some caledor sky blue in with the night lords blue and brushing it over the highpoints IMG_20240421_201125983 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240421_201647711 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240421_202249265 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I also started the same process with the helmet with the same colour as a start point. IMG_20240421_202630111 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240421_202827414 by Nick Frost, on Flickr So thats where he is for now, next up I'll highlight his suit more, although the next highlight will only be for his front upper body, the back and lower body are more in shadow and I want to keep his top half as the main focus. Thanks for looking, more soon
  7. Finally got this guy through the post! Been looking forward to getting this started, and this is a monster from the Flesh of Gods series of 3D printed miniatures and as such the scale is slightly misleading because he's pretty big compared to a human! IMG_20240309_192150478 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The good thing is as its bigger in size it actually has a much more detailed base than the other 3D printed figures I've done IMG_20240309_193154763 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Had to do quite a bit of cleanup with this guy where some supports needed to be removed and sanded, but he also had a couple of tips of the fins on his forearm missing so I just used some greenstuff to resculpt them, and while I had the greenstuff out there were a couple of small dips on his feet that needed sorting too so filled them over with it as well. IMG_20240310_142153017 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240310_174715863 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240310_140545493 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240310_141043672 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then with that done I sprayed the whole thing with chaos black primer IMG_20240317_190936248 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240317_190950225 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The first decision I made straight away is that I am not painting the rocks grey, I want it to be different but also its underwater so want to give them a croal reef look so instead they will be purple and for the Fishman I'm going to paint him a bright greeny turquoise blue with bright red fins. For both I'm not doing a zenithal blast of white paint because there are a lot of nooks and crannies so I want to preserve the shadow areas as pure black in case I miss anything and there aren't lots of little details that need bringing out anyway. The only thing I've done so far is to mix 50/50 with Night Lords Blue and Xereus Purple and brushed over the rocks as a base coat for the shadows. IMG_20240317_210112058 by Nick Frost, on Flickr So now its underway the next thing I'll do is build up the purple colour of the rocks, I really like the base so for this one I'm doing base first then the figure. Thanks for looking, more soon
  8. Really very lovely 3-D printed Ripley bust, about 12cm in height, bought as a kit (all of two pieces:) ) Before paint
  9. The story: This is a new 3D project initiated by friend Roland Grard and myself. Roland, who lives in Le Havre, has been in contact over the last few years with Australians who are interested in the sinking of the coaster Blythe Star. The ship sank very quickly without a distress message being sent out, but the ten crew members were able to get to safety in an inflatable raft. One of his Australian correspondents wrote a book about the tragedy, and was able to send them photos and plans of the boat. Other plans were "unearthed" from the Australian archives by another of his Australian correspondents who was also passionate about the Normandie liner. Last month he received a photo from her showing him with the last survivor of the sinking posing in front of a model of the Blythe Star. Roland knew that he had modelled the plans in 3D but was unaware that he had undertaken to make a model, and he was surprised to discover that this model had been partly made by 3D wire printing. Nicolas in front of his model and Mick Doleman on the left, last survivor of the Blythe Star. The model has been on display at the Tasmanian Maritime Museum in Hobart since the end of October 2023. https://www.facebook.com/MaritimeMuseumTasmania/ https://www.maritimetas.org/ He kindly sent her his various print files to produce another copy. That's when he asked me to print the ship. The problem is that the coaster is at 1/50 scale and it would have been complicated to print a ship of this size with a resin printer as I only had the final STL files at my disposal, which would have been difficult to modify in order to split them correctly. What's more, the printing technique is not the same between wire and resin, which is its own constraint. So I suggested to Roland that he redo the 3D drawing from A to Z with more detail, but at 1/100 scale, using the same plans he had available. The ship will be as she was in 1973. An extract from the plans: I've made good progress on the project since 28 November, a good week ago, I'm already at 50 hours of drawing, putting paid to my good resolution to finish the current projects, but at the same time I'm continuing to finish the battleship Bretagne. This project should be completed very quickly, a 'Flash' project. Here is some progress from the first 3 days:
  10. Right onwards and upwards, time for another figure! I wanted to try a non human one for something different, so this is a 75mm 3D printed figure from the Flesh of Gods series, the actual name of the character is "Grumpy Goblin" which I think is a bit too fairytale sounding for how he looks! I've referred to him as a Frost Goblin because I'm planning on doing him with blue skin and white hair for something different, and in actual fact none of these 3D prints give any mention of what colours what so its all open to interpretation anyway. I'm still on the fence about a couple of details, I really want to make his swords "power swords" by which I mean they have lightning going up up them with a blue glow effect, but I'm not sure if that might be a bit too much blue, and I may put some actual ice effects on his hip armour. But thats all for much later on so plenty of time to think and see how it looks. So this is him IMG_20240212_163102109 by Nick Frost, on Flickr For now all I've done with him is the first step of a zenithal prime, so I sprayed him black with some citadel chaos black from a rattle can, before spraying him with a blast white laquer paint to bring out the details and give a reference for my light source direction. IMG_20240212_165121428_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240214_193515018 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240214_193526850 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Everything on him is easily accessible so I've already glued him to the base to make my life a bit easier when holding him. Not a lot of progress yet; I've been waiting for a replacement to come after the first one broke in the post so I'm impatient to get the ball rolling with the topic! Next up I'll get the base coat of dark blue on all his fleshy bits and get his eyes sorted. Thanks for looking, more soon
  11. My latest project will be to build this 3D printed kit which has been designed and produced by Peter Harvey of PH Designs. My intention is to build the model as a representation of a vehicle I used in the mid-1970s, whilst deployed with a Forward Air Control (FAC) team in Norway. First off, I've needed to make a test print of the body, to check that I have the supports in the right place and that everything printed correctly. With the supports removed and sprayed with grey primer, this view shows up the detail nicely. Looking much better with a coat of green. I shall check this test print for any areas that need fine-tuning and do any adjustments as necessary before I make another print for the actual build. There are over 50 parts to this kit, some only 2.5mm in size, so this will not be a quick build. I hope that I can make a good model from the beautifully designed components. Further details about the kit and information of availabilty can be obtained from Peter at PH Designs cheers, Mike
  12. Earlier this year whilst working on designs for a 1/24th Westland Wasp, my hand was forced into learning how to cast aluminium (using vacuum processes) on a small scale, on account of the part(s) concerned needing to be much stronger than white metal was capable of providing. On the principle that the problems specific to modellers rarely feature in Youtube tutorials for such processes, it may be useful for others how this process can be adapted to our hobby on a cheap, reliable, but most importantly, safe, basis as home. In relation to scale and detail, the species of metal-casting videos in closest proximity to our craft tend to be those made by jewellery designers and from which you can form the misleading impression that you need to drop €2-3K on kilns, furnaces and the like to even get started. Those guys are working with precious metal on a market-volume routine basis so necessarily need consistent, professional gear to run their practice on a daily basis, unlike those of us needing only small volume or occasional metal parts. Before proceeding any further I cannot stress the safety factor enough - foundry work (even at this small scale) involves materials and equipment working in excess of 700°C, so as a minimum you require: A well-ventilated outbuilding or outdoor area (with a concrete or stone floor), with the casting area itself well away from any flammable materials. Safety equipment: protective footwear, along with a thick industrial apron and foundry-type gloves like these: Protective goggles are also advised. If you have neighbours right next door as well, in terms of noise pollution/public nuisance, be aware that the furnace emits quite a roar at operating temperature, as well as fumes when the wax resin is being burned out. Metalworking gear sold online with the word 'jewellery' appended is as a rule wildly expensive for the home user, however, much of what you need can either be made or adapted cheaply yourself with only basic DIY-level skills. For clarity, the following is split into three sections regarding tools, materials, and then the sequence of events involved in producing the parts. Tools 1. Casting flask & base. These flasks are just a stainless steel cylinder and go for silly money online. I bought a cheap length of 3" wide stainless steel exhaust (for a Mini) from a local car-parts seller for the price of a single flask and cut it down to produce as many flasks as I need: The rubber base you see it sitting on is one of these, again, an inexpensive item. 2. Foundry tools. The melting crucible is a 1kg carbon graphite job. You can pick these up cheaply enough online from the likes of Amazon however many of them come without a pouring lip which I found made pouring the metal awkward so you can see at the 3 o'clock position on it tbar I ground out my own lip (easy enough using the Dremel). Both the black crucible tongs and flask tongs (yes this latter are really just a big BBQ pair) can also be sourced cheaply online. Ensure your tongs match the size of both your flask and crucible though - in my case the black tongs work fine with the crucible but don't open wide enough to lift the flask in and out of the furnace, hence the second pair. A large screwdriver is useful for digging the part out of the mould after casting, whilst the tool on the far right is simply an old BBQ spatula folder over in the vice to produce a handy item for scraping slag off the top of the liquid metal whilst it's in the furnace. 4. Furnace. You'll find plenty of rather costly gas propane furnaces online for blacksmithing, jewellery etc., and an equal number of cheap knockoffs. I sought advice about the cheaper alternatives from a sculptor friend with experience working a range of metals: his verdict was that they were too cheaply built to last, plus also noted that on H&S grounds you still had to spend time making them safe to use in terms of treating the thermal blankets from spewing off fibres. As I had already had one of these roofing torches from previous building works, the heat source for the furnace was already taken care of. If you need to source a burner yourself, there's a lot of simple cheap furnace torches of the venturi type available online, or even build your own. Whichever route you follow, you're working with gas and high temperatures, so be careful. There'd been an empty Calor gas cylinder knocking around in the garden ever since we moved in about two decades ago; I'd never thrown it out thinking 'it'll come in handy one day' and sure enough, this turned out to be its hour of glory, being transformed into a furnace using Brian Oltrogge's impeccablly concise beer keg method: Not needing such a large furnace as Brian did, I cut the middle 25% out of my cylinder's original height, whilst the handles were simply recyled from an old airbrush compressor: Not needing such a heavy amount of heat as a larger furnace to get up to operating temp. (typically 732°C for flask burnout / approx 700°C for melting the aluminium in the crucible.*) I also replaced the original nozzle of my propane torch with a smaller bore version and made sure that the diameter of the tuyere opening matched it during construction so that it would fit comfortably into the opening like so: For the refractory lining of both furnace body and lid I followed Lionel Oliver II's homebrew mixture to the letter and it works superbly, as long as your initial warming and firing process to cure it follows Brian Oltrogge's curing steps of air, heat lamp, then steadily increased the burner temp over several hours, which he outlines in his tutorial videos. Vacuum chamber/table Unluckily my defunct airbrush compressor was a diaphragm rather than piston version, otherwise I would have had a go at converting it to a vacuum pump along the lines used by Tariq Curtis. That said, Vevor sell a decent, inexpensive pump/chamber combination that provided plenty of scope for modification along the lines required here. It didn't have to be pretty, just work consistently, and was modified thus: The chamber comes from the manufacturer with the connection and gauge mounted onto the lid, so as I needed to be able to swap the lid out for a casting table (which I made from that circular steel plate you can see hiding behind the pump), the side of the chamber was drilled out and the connection repositioned to there, with the original hole in the lid being sealed by that highly professional and sophisticated method of sticking a 50p piece over it using JB Weld: That then gave me the means to both de-gas the liquid investment inside the chamber when casting the 3d printed pattern, and then by swapping the lids over, use it outside as a vacuum casting table. By no means is that combination an original idea on my part (it's a well known and widely used process with some beautifully-engineered equipment produced by others) but has the virtue of being quick and cheap to produce in this instance. If buying a similar pump/chamber, go for a pump with the higher flow rate as you will need that extra speed at the metal pouring stage. Casting 1. The 3D print and investment mould. The initial casting step proved the most expensive part of the process as, in experimenting with both resin and homemade casting mixtures, you pretty soon find out that there is a reason that specialist materials exist. You gets what you pay for! After satisfying myself that tens of thousands of people around the world weren't lying about the fact that standard resin doesn't cook off when subjected to extreme heat but just turns to ash: - I realized that it was necessary to buy one of those printing resins especially formulated for metal casting. After going square-eyed from reading brand-comparisons (as well as bug-eyed at some of the prices!), I settled on Siraya's well-known 'Tech Cast Purple' as a compromise between quality and cost. It's been around a while, is well spoken of, and gave excellent print results first time out: Did I say compromise? Actually there's no compromise here in quality terms, the surface finish being on par with anything I've got from Elegoo's standard grey: the only issue I found in regular use was the occasional apparition: This particular blend of resin does require a more elaborate cleaning and curing cycle post-print, however if you're prepared to pay a bit more then I undertand the newer Blue version simplifies this step. Prior to obtaining the vacuum gear and a custom investment powder I explored some of the cheaper options for investment casting first, having several goes at using a 50/50 mix of Plaster of Paris and silica sand and just the effects of gravity to get the metal into the mould. Many people have routinely gotten great results from such inexpensive materials but for producing larger chunkier parts than what I required here, so it was no surprise when I was unable to get the proccess to produce more than a 70% complete print on such small parts. Remarkable however that it yielded that much! A brief reading up on the chemical composition of investment materials rapidly convinced me that for 3d printed materials at this scale, the use of a professionally-produced powder was necessary. Digging around online I was able to find a supplier in Spain who was able to ship a box of Ransom & Randolph's 'Plasticast' blend, specifically formulated for using with 3d printed materials, at a reasonable rate: It has a lovely creamy texture and performs consistently well, plus you get to sing Mud Mud, Glorious Mud whilst degassing it: When it comes to the actual mixing and casting process, George on Makerspace gives a far better demonstration of this visually than I can ever hope to achieve in written for. Essentially follow everything he does here and you will get good results. Hat tip to you George. One crucial difference is that he uses a kiln to fire his flask whereas as I use the gas furnace: This obviously lacks the precision of a digitally-controlled thermal environment so aside from a handheld thermal temperature gun (which will only give you an approximate understanding of the internal temperature due to confusing reads off the hot gases emerging at the top) you have to work old-school and judge the required temperature by the colour of the steel flask. This is not as hard as it sounds once you get your eye in. One issue I balked at when humming and aahing about buying an expensive investment powder initially was the multi-hour temperature-control cycle the manufacturers recommend for baking your flask. No way would this be practicable or affordable on a gas furnace. I was heartened though to read in Tim McCreight's Practical Casting (a superb handbook to have) that there was a 'quick and dirty' 3hr bake you could use instead (essentially the same routine followed by George in his video). Certainly this has worked fine in my case, despite the difference in equipment. As to the actual metal pour, this is the setup I use out back, with plenty of leg room between furnace and vacuum table in order to avoid tripping over anything: The black cylinder is an old airbrush tank cut down and insulated (so that I can stick the baked flask under to keep hot whilst melting the metal down) whilst that silicone gasket on top of the vacuum table is just a cheap piece of catering sheet cut out with a hole in the middle for the flask to sit over. A fresh pour: Surprisingly the vacuum setup exerts a stronger pull with hot rather than cold items, I've no idea why. You want to avoid the flask shedding too much heat whilst out in the open on top of the table as the chamber evacuates and you fetch the crucible of metal over, so I bung a couple of large rocks into the chamber to drastically reduce the volume of air the pump needs to remove. The subsequent cooling and cleanup cycle again follow what you see George doing in his video, whilst the net result of the above has remained pretty consistent from cast to cast. Here are copies of the parts in question - the forks which hold the main rotor blades on the Wasp - neither resin, plastic, or white metal capable providing the required tensile strength to hold the blades without making these fork elements grossly oversized: These are all still in their raw state out of the mould so the next task of course is to begin cutting them off the sprue and give them a sand and polish - hopefully I can start that over the next few evenings. Is this work going to make any jewellery designers feel threatened? Hardly. But it is capable of reproducing features down to about 0.15mm in size on parts that need to be stronger than more commonplace modelling processes can provide. And that's all that was needed in this instance. I'll post up a photo of the forks in the finished condition in a few days. Kind regards, Tony *This Vietnamese foundry produces the best guide I found anywhere online about the temperature ranges for pouring aluminium, in terms of balancing strength with surface detail.
  13. As soon as I saw this miniature I really wanted to get it! Its from a range of printable figures called Undercity Exiles, and I used to be a biker so I always have a soft spot for two wheels, especially when they are as cool as this. IMG_20240118_194555888_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr Started off by priming her in black and then used some white laquer paint through my airbrush to do a zenithal prime once I'd figured out my light direction. Although just as a sidenote, I dont do this just for that, the whole thing will get at least a light mist of white to bring out the detail to help me see it when painting. IMG_20240120_144146278_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240120_150643707 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240120_151003219 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The only laquer paints I usually use are Mr Hoby brand, but for this one I actually ran out but didn't have to wait for an order as I found some Tamiya white laquer paint in Hobbycraft and man can I tell a difference. The Mr Hobby laquer white covers way better than the Tamiya one, so it took me longer than usual to build up the colour. After that I started on her face and fleshy bits, of which there is not much which makes a change from all the muscles of the last miniature i did! So on the wet pallet I got some Bugmans Glow (dark), Cadian Flesh (medium) and Kislev flesh (light) and put down my base coat of Bugmans Glow as a first step. IMG_20240121_114502156 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_115158673_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_115143734 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Next up was the transition shade of a 50/50 mix of Bugmans Glow and Cadian Flesh which will cover all but the deepest shadow, you can see on the pallet pic below I also mixed up the transition colour of 50/50 Cadian Flesh and Kislev Flesh just so I had it ready for me. IMG_20240121_115422281 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Her face is about half in shadow and light with the way I've organised the light direction, so I moved between these shades and made sure it stayed fairly dark on one side of her face building up to the brightest highlights on the other which ended up with a 50/50 mix of Kislev Flesh and some white. IMG_20240121_122225038_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_122230043_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_122235506_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr At this point I thought maybe the darkside was slightly too dark so I brightened it a little using some bugmans glow with a bit more cadian flesh mixed in and I also highlighted a little the bits of skin you can see showing through the bottom of her leotard style top. IMG_20240121_122420826 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_122420826 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_123544909_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr And after tweaking the highlights and smoothing some of the transitions I got here to a point where I was happy with the bright and dark side of her face. IMG_20240121_131645783 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_131653755 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_131701749 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Oh forgot to mention there is also a small bit of flesh showing through the back of her gloves which I gave similar treatment. So then the next step is here visor, now my vision for this to have it as if its lit from the side edges of the headset with a bright neon light from each side. To do this I used some fluorescent magenta paint from Vallejo Game Color, which is good for glow effetcs and such. Now I'd heard a lot of people say this paint was too thin and you need lots of coats to build it up, so I thought great I can make that work in my favour to good effect as I can hopefully paint over the eyes to make it look like they are just bathed in light. So I started by painting the eyes with bright white whites and dark grey centres, I want this whole thing to be monochrome ready for overpainting with the thin fluorescent magenta paint, so I also used shades of grey to adjust the shadow areas. IMG_20240121_132212388_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_133026720_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr At this point I gave the area the first coat of fluorescent magenta IMG_20240121_142129851 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Man obviously you cant tell but it is very thin, and is just the opacity I'd hoped for. I gave the whites of her eyes and the parts at the side a coat of white to restablish the bright points for the next coat before brushing it on. IMG_20240121_143008913 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_144249401 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I gave just the side bits where the light is coming in another coat of white before the next magentas coat. IMG_20240121_144940558 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_144954080_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_145003085_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr Oh and there was something really bugging me about her face and then I realised I had made her lips the same colour as her face so I gave them a brush with some of my midtone mix and used the base colour to restablish the lip shadows IMG_20240121_145335817 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240121_145624635_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Very pleased with that, I think it will look even better when I have painted the headset to box it all in and neaten it up. Thats what I will do next before starting her hair which I have decided to do a dusky lilac, as that seems like a cool "biker-girl-of-the-future" colour! Thanks for looking, more soon
  14. Hi folks, originally I had asked my son to print me an Apollo Astronaut as a size reference for my 1/48 Dragon Lunar Approach. The first try came out way to big, about 1/24 scale ... so I made a little vignette out of it, as the print was just to nice to throw away (anyhow, no modeller throws anything away!!). The second try was perfect for the Dragon kit .... Then I got cocky and wanted ANOTHER print, this time 1/72 for my Dragon LM and CM (they were "leftovers" from the Saturn rocket, as I build that in one piece without the interior showing - yes! I chickened out looking at all the modification the insides would have required). However, in several tries the figure never came out correctly out of the print. For one, the posture is different. As it is the exact same 3d file, I have no clue why that happens. Though it does look a bit more dynamic. But it was always missing the top half of the helmet???? I finally took one of those "headless" tries and molded the rest of the helmet on there with putty. It came out alright, I think. Thanks for looking, as always. Cheers
  15. Hello. Please check out my new project finished few days ago. It is 3d printed model that you can purchase on cgtrader. Enjoy.
  16. Hello everyone, I am teaching myself to use CAD and I thought "what better way to put anything I learn into practice than with a WiP?". I have chosen a couple of subjects to practice with, namely a military low-bed trailer, which is part of another ongoing WiP, and this Leyland Hippo 6x4 10 ton truck. I shall start with the chassis, as I have been able to find and download a good set of plans from the Mick Bell archives. To start with, I uploaded the plan into Fusion 360, as a canvas template, and then resized it to 1:144 scale. Following that, I was able to start drawing the chassis frame. Then, I was able to add some of the cross-frame supports. Note that I am only drawing half of the chassis, doing this has two benefits for me: - it save time as I will make a mirror copy once I have completed the drawing and match it over to the other side to make a complete chassis. - I find it difficult to draw identical lines and curves for each side of a drawing, this method helps to eliminate such errors. Next to go on the drawing are the suspension and drive-unit components. Please excuse my lack of the correct terminology, I know very little about vehicles. Here we have the front leaf springs and the two differential units, plus supporting brackets The petrol tank is situated on this side of the chassis so that was next to be drawn up. And this is where I have managed to get to so far. All the components described above have been brought together. I shall spend a little time working out what else is needed and where etc., although the prop shafts will probably be my next task. Some areas still have me befuddled, such as the two items just inside the front wheels on the bottom left image of the diagram I am using. Thanks for looking. Mike
  17. Hello A few photos of my newest project. It is a resin model printed on an Anycubic 3d printer. Cheers.
  18. All of these CAD renders have been taken periodically over 2022, each vehicle has been modeled from separate parts items like the engines and gear boxes have been designed as single items, chassis frames, suspension, drive shafts, axles, door and other parts are separate parts (80 parts make up one of the vehicles) all designed for 3D printing. The parts and the vehicles were designed according to workshop manuals and individual component drawings, and a lot of help from owners of the real historic vehicle owners. Some are designed as conversions for the Italeri 109" Kits and before anyone asks Yes Mike @bootneck is aware of these and has helped me with the Series 3 Ambulance conversion. The next stage is to start test prints of the parts and once I'm happy with everything I am planning on making the files available for purchase buy others A full 17 CH 4 cylinder petrol engine Mike was happy when I sent him these images. Yes a full 3.5 Rover V8 engine Yes I have modeled the body door handles on the finished doors. The radio and vampire vehicles are void of any internal parts as I could not able to get anything on the equipment and considering it is still in service quite right too. The series 3 Ambulance body will be a conversion to the Italeri base Kit. I will post updates as I proceed with the test printing. Pete
  19. My second project for the GB, After making the Czech TNH 57/900 I'm still in the mood for some obscure paper designs & came across this while looking for ideas/references. The 16T Panzer "Laupen" was a 1950's Swiss project to design a new light tank based on the Hetzer/G-13 hull. The upper hull was redesigned & fitted with a cast turret equipped with a 90mm gun, the engine was also replaced with a more powerful diesel powerplant. Development of tank didn't get very far & the Swiss decided to buy the AMX-13 from France instead. There are no model kits of this very obscure tank available so I'll being designing & 3D printing the whole thing. I've started with making the basic shapes for the hull & turret, I'll work on getting the basic suspension & wheel parts done next. Then its adding all the smaller details, some of which I'll have to be a bit creative with as the blueprints doesn't have much detail.
  20. Hi BM'ers! I've been a little lacking in posts over here in recent years - bit tied up with moderating in another place that focuses on Large Scale Planes. However, I've recently acquired a copy of the 1:32 Hawker Siddeley Andover from Toshihiko of One Man Model in Japan and thought, being a British type, I really ought to share here too... Very occasionally you log on to the Interweb and spot something that immediatedly shouts 'what the...' Well, this was one of those moments. And it proceeded to create a 'disturbance in the force' - or at least my model building plans. Forum member Anthony Galbraith had spotted that Toshihiko, of 'One Man Model', was drawing up the Hawker Siddeley HS780 Andover C.Mk 1 with a view to 3D printing in 1:72 and 1:48 scales. Anthony asked if this could be printed in 1:32 and the intial answer was a no. However, a few weeks later the answer came back as a yes - and Anthony posted on the LSP forums asking if anyone else would be interested in a 1:32 print of the Andover. Two immediate positive responses - and a slightly delayed yes from me - subsequently followed up by a fifth - and the project was on! Oh, and beware, it's a fair size - here are the fuselage parts, taped together, compared to HK Models 1:32 B-17: I put together a review here. Plan is to build mine as a 115 Sqn E.Mk 3 from the mid/late '80s as we used to see them a lot in the skies over Oxfordshire. Back in a mo... Iain
  21. I'm joining in the GB with a 3D printed Panzerhund from the game Wolfenstein. I originally printed the parts for this build about 4 years ago but quickly lost interest & they have been sitting in a box since. Time to blow off the dust & finish removing the remaining supports. Starting at lunch time & seeing how far I can get today & then hopefully finish with painting tomorrow. Here is a live action trailer for the game showing the little puppy in action 😋
  22. Deadpool is now finished! He was a 3D print I bought about a year ago, not sure on the scale, it was sold just as being 28cm high, but to look at I'd say he probably is around 1/6. I brush painted him with enamels, except for the sword which was sprayed with Mr Crystal Moon Pearl and the gun wich was an alclad mix of steel and jet exhaust then dry brushed with silver. Shading/weathering was mostly done with graveyard dirt mig pigment. Heres a link to the wip:- This was a pleasure to do, I've done a couple of 3d prints now and always enjoy doing them, thanks to everyone who followed along and here are the pics IMG_20230822_175252794_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175308021_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175327699_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175340699_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175357101_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175413418_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175424000_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175441484_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175458300_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175515099_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175538950_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175545383_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175719166 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20230822_175841139_HDR by Nick Frost, on Flickr All comments and questions welcome, thanks for looking
  23. I picked this little figure up on eBay, as I like Ahsoka, and her appearance in The Mandalorian and The Book of Boba Fett was impressive, so I thought I'd get one to go with the Clone Troopers I've got. She had to be younger and in her Padwan days, so this is it. Now I've seen that Fantasy have just released an injection-moulded kit of her for the game Star Wars Legends. Such is life I got it from 3D-Argent, and like all of their miniatures they're well-printed and packaged, but the wrap was a little tight, bending the lightsabers a little, and rather than ruin the figure trying to use heat to bend them back, I clipped them off and replaced them with lengths of 1mm brass rod, which I'd chucked into my Dremel and shaped with a file, then polished with a sanding sponge, narrowing the back end so it would fit into a small hole I drilled in the handle. Getting the drill to stay in the centre was tricky, partly because of the layers, and the fact that the resin is quite brittle at this scale, but I managed it in the end. I've also painted the base and "litter" that came with the figure, which is half of a B1 Battle Droid that she'd presumably just sliced in half. I added a few lead wires hanging out of the cut, which is highly unrealistic, but looks fun anyway Ahsoka is going to get some primer shortly, and then I'll have to research her colour scheme, as I can't remember off the cuff.
  24. Hello! This is a pretty simple build/paint. Someone over on Starship Modeler gave me the bug to build a TIE Defender. I'm a big fan of SW Squadrons, and the Defender is a playable ship in that game. The 3D model is fairly well detailed, and I bought the files from ModelWerks here. After reviewing all the parts, I was able to get things printed out pretty easily on my Elegoo Saturn, and everything fit nice and tidy on one build plate. Then I ran into a hitch. The way that this is designed, the ball is split vertically into two halves. I didn't think this would be a problem, but after printing, support removal, curing (and resulting shrinkage), the two halves didn't exactly line up. That cockpit consists of 5 pieces, and there was just too many things going on for it all to fit together well. SO! Back to the computer I went. I brought all 5 files into MeshMixer: And combined them all into one part: (MM makes the preview of the model pretty low-rez. The actual model is fine) With that, it was saved out as a new STL file and brought into ChituBox, with supports being added: This might not be the most optimal way of printing/supporting a sphere, but it printed perfectly on the first try, with just a few support marks on the back of the ball to cleanup. You can see a few layer lines in there, but I think between primer and a bit of sanding, those'll go away. It still blows me away that you can just print stuff like this. Here are some closeups of the cockpit and pilot: (and remember, this is all one part now): This will all be painted black shortly. I cleaned up the supports on the wings and the engine tri-section, and those got a layer of Tamiya fine surface primer: Here is a group shot of all the pieces together. A simple build, really. I'm going to wait for some warmer weather (maybe...) before I prime the new cockpit section and the rest of the parts. Now on to color.... I know that the close Tamiya paint for the ANH TIEs is TS-32 Haze Grey, but I think that that is a bit too blue for my liking for this build. I am going to reference the SW Squadrons image at the top of this post for paint color: more gray with a dash of blue, rather than the other way around. Anyway, that's all for now. I wasn't going to do a build thread on this one because it is such a simple build, but I thought I'd show some of the 3D stuff I did in MeshMixer in the hopes that it'll help someone else out someday. Stay tuned for more! SB
  25. I have a project that's nearing completion, at least it will be once I get my mojo back. It started out as an ICM OV-10A Bronco in 1/48 scale, and I've done some conversion work using scratch building, 3D printing and vacuform. Here is the model as of tonight: (note: if you don't see the image it's because your browser is blocking it. It works on Firefox.) The build was coming along nicely until I hit some bumps in the road. The first bump is that the propeller blades are set at the wrong angle - they should be in flat pitch (blade angle = 0). No manufacturer of OV-10 kits has ever got this right, so it's hard to fault ICM for this. If I squint I can pretend they're at flat pitch. The other road block was the decals. I really should sand them off and re-do them, but I don't have enough mojo left for that. From a distance they look fair. The most arduous part was building the kit without the sponsons. This required sanding and filling the recesses for the sponsons, then scribing over them. 3D printed parts are: jet engine pod, ILS antennas, 230 gallon external tank, main landing gear, winch operator's seat, and a mold for vacuforming a clear cargo bay door. To do: install winch operator's station, finish and install cargo door, finish decals -- Dave
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