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  1. The link above is for the ongoing WIP of the building pictured here. It's a long WIP.... 19 pages I think. If you take a look at the first page or two you will see that the building there was meant to be nothing more than a few ruined walls. And it's ended up a 6-room 2 storey building with full interior and roof! Anyone who has been following my 'PIT STOP' WIP where I decided to build a ruined farmhouse, will know that it's been a long and arduous task. The main issue is as always, my strive for perfection. And that means I build, paint and weather something to what I consider the best of my ability, then move to a different area, and in the intervening weeks I look back at the first 'job' and think 'I can do that better'. So I go back and re-work it. It doesn't help also, that new ideas pop into my head as well. Like suddenly I might decide to extend the length of the building, or change the pitch of the roof! I further complicated things by deciding in the 'latter stages' to make this building a 'multi-pose' one. So one wall in particular was 'demolished'. Two 'inserts' were made to replace it. One is more or less intact with windows and a roof, the other part-collapsed, and with or without a roof. The roof itself is made up from several sections, all or some of which can be removed. The resulting building, when it's finished, will be used as a backdrop for various winter-camo AFVs, each photographed with the building in different states of dilapidation. BTW, my method for weathering is to weather everything as I go along, and not worry about it getting 'dirtied' by adjacent weathering, or damaged by knocks and scrapes. I touch up and re-do the weathering constantly throughout the build, even going as far as to remove areas right back to the bare plaster/foamboard. It's all about layering. As the title suggests, I could have just left this building out in the real weather and let that do its job!! For now the building remains in two halves whilst I continue to work on the interior. The following photos show the building in various poses. But basically everything is there in one photo or another. So, without further ado, here's the result of a year's tinkering. Materials used and some methodology: All painting done using Acrylic Inks, except for some white enamel here and there. Gable wall, plaster cast of MiniArt's 'Ruined Village House'. Upper floor window repositioned lower down, by approx 1cm. All other walls either plaster casts of the gable wall, chopped up and rearranged and re-modelled, or made from something that is very similar to foamboard, but is stiffer, and more plastic-like.... advertising boards from a supermarket. All wooden parts are made from balsa, 'bass wood' or coffee stirrers. Glass parts: transparent plastic food packaging. Roof battens (for tile fixing) plastic bristles from a yard brush. Wall Plaster/Render: Either paper drenched with and fixed in place with CA, then sanded, 'cracked' with a scalpel, OR real plaster of paris, or 'no more nails'. Red brickwork: Plaster casts of Tamiya's 'brick wall set'. White-painted stonework around windows: plastic information labels most often found stuck in plant pots. Drainpipes: plastic ink 'tubes' from inside Biro pens. Wall brackets for drainpipes made from heated plastic bristles from yard brush. Guttering: 3 layers of graph paper, rolled in a half pipe around a form then doused with thin CA, turning the paper plastic-like, and very rigid. Cut, filed and sanded to the correct profile. Gutter brackets again CA'd paper. Weathering: 'Plaster-dust washes' and lots of rubbing back with wet or dry brushes. Acrylic Ink washes and some rubbing back. Sand paper/files for exposing plaster or foamboard, usually followed by more washes. And finally, the roof tiles: Again 3 whole sheets of graph paper, doused with thin CA, then marked out in rows, cut, re-arranged and CA'd to another sheet of graph paper, in columns, and again cut into rows. This gave me individual rows of tiles which although fixed to each other, had previously been cut vertically. The rows were then CA'd to each other with the uppermost row always overlapping the lower. Thanks for looking, I'm happy to answer any questions. Rearguards, Badder
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