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Found 16 results

  1. Japanese I-400 class submarine designed & built in WW2 - largest subs in the world until the dawn of nuclear subs in the 1960's. I-400 class subs had a hangar space for three float planes. Two or three ships of this kind were built before the end of the war. I had some PE details to add to the build - like the rails. Painted with Vallejo acrylics and weathered with oil paints.
  2. Just completed my build of the Revell 1:700 HMS Invincible configured as she may have looked sailing south during Operation Corporate in 1982. Built as a clean model pretty much out of the box with some minimal mods made to the kit as follows: Removed the over scale raised deck markings and replaced them with 0.5mm and 0.25mm wide white pin stripes decals supplied by @Fantasy Printshop Changed the inboard funnel vents to more accurately depict a line of five vents as seen in photos of the real thing. Opened up the missing bow scuppers Scratched up two large Yokahama fenders from sprue pieces, as seen on the foredeck in photos taken during the cruise south (sorry I couldn't figure out a way of replicating the protective tyres and chains festooning these at this scale) Added missing Shar wing tanks made from stretched sprue. (Also, the supplied roundel decals were out of register and all had a semi circular white surround, so I ended up painting the roundels on) Scratched up 5 bladed folded main rotors for the Sea Kings using thin plastic card Finished her with the peacetime black funnel and mast tops painted over in grey, but with some soot deposition on these areas as seen in photos from the campaign If interested, follow this link to see a more complete work in progress thread for this build. Things I would do differently if I built it again? Use only the 0.25mm wide pin strip decals as these are closer to the scale width of all the deck markings, although they're a bit trickier than the 0.5mm ones to get to lie straight Use square cut black decals for the bridge windows (the painted windows are admittedly a bit wobbly)😬 Try and work out what colour scheme the ships boats actually had.😆 I took a punt at white, navy blue, light grey, and green (for the decks) Wait for the Atlantic Models PE detail set to become available so that all the prominent but missing guard rails and safety netting could be included.
  3. Here is my model of USS Lassen in 1:700 scale from the Hobby Boss kit. I started this on 23rd Dec and with some fits and starts finished it yesterday. It was an easy kit to build, however, I rather bodged the paintjob as I painted the deck first, then the superstructures and when time came to attach them found some gaps needed filling, resulting in too many layers caused by masking and re-masking using Liquid Mask. As a result the sharp details have become rather lost and the decals exhibit quite a bit of silvering despite liberal application of Daco decal solvent. it was also my first time doing PE railings so they are bit wonky (I used transparent canopy glue & C.A. to fix them). The halyards are a combination of Uschi van der Rosten rigging and stretched sprue affixed with C.A. For the base, after building a frame using 20mm pine coaming from the local DIY shop the sea effect was created using stryofoam board, watercolour paper, then airbrushed Vallejo Dark Sea Blue, Pastel Green and Off White with the green & white closer to the vessel. I drew around the shape of the hull form using the bottom half of the waterline kit part and then gouged a seat for the ship. I created the waves using AK Interactive Sea Effect for the overall sea texture and then cotton wool soaked in the same for the churn, finished with AK Interactive Foam. I probably spent more time thinking and preparing the base than the model itself. Putting such effort on the sea taught me a vital lesson that despite the (perceived) shortcomings of my work on the model (paint job), once viewed as a whole, these somehow become less apparent.
  4. Here is my model at 1:700 scale of HMS Hardy, a Type 14 Anti-Submarine Frigate. I built this model for my father who served on HMS Hardy when he did National Service with the Royal Navy in the late 1950s. The model portrays HMS Hardy as she appeared at that time with 3 guns. The Bofors gun on the quarter deck was removed in the 1960s because of its exposed position and most pictures of the Type 14 frigates show the gun having been removed. The model is basically a rework of the MT miniatures 1:700 kit which is very basic to say the least. There is a build log showing the extent of the conversion I undertook here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235025645-1700-scale-type-14-frigate-hms-hardy/ Apart from the MT Miniatures kit I used: The Pitroad NATO weapons set for the Limbo Anti-Submarine Mortars. White Ensign 1:700 Photo Etch - General Post War Royal Navy fittings. White Ensign 1:700 Photo Etch – RN Doors and Hatches. White Ensign 1:700 Photo Etch – Ladders and Walkways. Starling Models 1:700 Photo Etch – RN WWII Boat Davits. Lion Roar 1:700 Photo Etch – USN WWII Fairleads Flyhawk 1:700 – Modern RN liferafts And Niko 1:700 – 40mm single mount Bofors Guns. This may seem an awful lot to buy to improve one model but the transformation from the original MT Miniatures kit speaks for itself. There are some things I think I could have done better but on the whole I think the model has turned out quite nicely and definitely an improvement on the original. Enjoy and thanks for looking.
  5. I recently purchased Flyhawks 1:700 scale HMS Prince of Wales as much out of curiosity as anything. I have some of their etch sets which I have found to be extremely detailed and wondered how their full kit would stand up against the brand I usually purchase at this scale, Tamiya. So lets start with stating the obvious, the Tamiya kit I am using as the comparison (the KGV kit) is a mid 80's release and so I do expect the age to show. Normaly I add etch to a kit to bring it up to standard so to make it a fair comparison I will include the the Eduard etch set as part of the comparison, this also brings the price tag about level at £35. The Flyhawks kit at £35 is the fabled as the deluxe edition which has extras to the standard kit. Interestingly it is stated to be battle of the Denmark strait fit, thus as New. First thing to note is that the box is considerably bigger, this is not some form of marketing ploy, the box is rammed with parts. First Item out of the box is a print that has some history on the back. that's followed by instructions, decals, etch bag after bag of sprue a plastic box of parts a metal box and weight and the hull sections. Unlike the Tamiya kit there is an option for full hull as well as waterline. comparing the two hulls length and width is the same but the detail on the Fyhawk hull is much nicer with the panel lines shown. the armour belts are different lengths though so one of them is wrong! [/url Same is true when we compare decks the tamiya planking runs the full length of the deck where as the Flyhawks deck has plank lengths. not sure if the pattern is correct but it will look good under paint. The level of detail carried on the Flyhawks deck is superb making the Tamiya deck look a bit Barron. The Tamiya kit comes with two large sprue, Flyhawk have lots of smaller sprue, there is more sprue material than part material. The first item spotted was the crane, very nice it is too, this would look great without modification, but an etch replacement is supplied. Where as the Tamiya crane (bottom pick) is essential to replace. [ Now I have always accepted that Tamiya's turrets are good for the scale, but Flyhawk blows them out of the water excuse the pun, the detail is exquisite. interestingly Flyhawk have the barbette and the turret floor as a single moulding. There is a stack of 4 tiny sprue that have some tiny parts on them such as deck guns. nice detail but actually the barrels look a bit chunky compared to Tamiya equivalents (bottom pic) It is with the superstructure that the Flyhawk kit really begins to stand out, the level of detail is breath taking and where the holding prices may have limited detail they do the panel separately rather than compromise. The kamiya kit needs aftermarket etch as it is almost bereft of any detail and where some definition is present its a none descript lump. The hanger is another area where both kits have internal detail but it is definitely not correct on the Tamiya kit where as the Flyhawk offering looks much more authentic The more you look at the kit the better it becomes, one very nice feature is the two funnel stacks which are moulded as a complete item with what looks like the correct rivet pattern. no more sanding the assembly and losing the shape!! The funnel caps are ok even passable but still on the thick side. all in all they far surpass the Tamiya funnels. Again I have always considered the Tamiya ships boats good for the scale, but again Flyhawk have raised the bar a notch or two. the detail is oversize but the impression is still better; especially when you compare the admirals barge. The sprue keep on coming, I have built 1:350 kits with fewer parts! The Flyhawk mast is not so good dont get me wrong it looks the part other than it is very warped, due to how thin it is, this will have to be replaced and I believe there is a superset mast set the Flyhawk sell. Although the tamiya mask is slightly heavy yo know it won't mind the rigging where I suspect Flyhawks may just give some moment, brass masts would be better but Tamiya takes the prize for the injection moulded masts (Last pic). Flyhawk include a seaplane, Tamiya don't bother. the detail of the plane is great and should look the part once painted. * Instructions are good if not a bit fussy. lots of sub assembly diagrams help with the huge number of parts. not as easy to follow as tamiya instructions but they are in colour with plenty of detail. The Flyhawks kit has some decals, couple of white ensigns and decals for the aircraft. given that this kit can be full hull I dont think it would have broken the bank to add displacement markings for the hull its a shame they are not there. but then Tamiya don't supply any decals. That compares the basic kits, but as I said I would not build a Tamiya kit without etch and, also as I said earlier, this is the ultimate Flyhawk set which comes with etch, so lets look at the etch next. Eduard supply all the railings you need plus various ladders and parts that improve the surface detail along with a number of replacement deck guns across two small frets. Flyhawk supply three frets of etch that also cover the railings and ladders as well as replacing some of the kit parts and the crane. there is a propeller for the sea plane and anchor chain and replacement funnel caps the finest of the etch is apparent particularly on the inclined ladders that really look correct, an achievement at this scale. But Flyhawk do not stop there Inside the small plastic box are twelve bags contains replacement brass barrels and an assortment of other tiny brass and resin parts such as cable reels and mushroom vents - I will say that again bras and resin mushroom vents, at 1:700 scale!!! I hope they put spares in as these are microscopic. Finally there is a metal box that contains the coat of arms for Prince of Wales that can be screwed onto a display base. Conclusion The Flyhawk kit is very comprehensive with excellent detail. when you consider the price tag it stands up well to buying a Tamiya Kit and adding barrels and etch. may only criticism is the mast that is bent. I am looking forward to building this kit and at this stage would certainly look to buy another Flyhawk kit in the future Jase
  6. So having finished my build at 1:144 Scale I have decided to shrink back down to 1:700 scale again. I thought I should share my build of a kit I picked up at the South West Ship Show in Portishead a couple of months ago. I had not seen one of these before and was not aware of the manufacturer also there was a nice model of Victory on the stand and temptation got the better of me. I know that this model doesn’t fit with my usual of modern warships but my excuse is that HMS Victory is still in commission as the Flagship of CinC Fleet and features on the back of my Long Service and Good Conduct Medal. So starting in the usual fashion with the contents and packaging label The hull is cast in resin to a good standard the mast and spars are white metal with PE ratline. I bought the extra fret for the sails. The following pictures are my progress of my build so far. Much of it has been a lesson in hand painting which was made easier by using Vallejo acrylics. Rigging is 80wt cotton thread. More to follow soon. Thanks for looking.
  7. Hello everyone. The Easter holiday has finally allowed me to get my teeth into some long overdue modelling. First up is the Type 42 Destroyer from Dragon models. As with most things, planning is everything. After a scan of the instructions and a dry fit of the major components, it became clear that the photoetch should be tackled first. The main reason for this is because at 1:700 scale you have so little room to work with that fitting railings underneath walkways would be near impossible. The railings under the flightdeck show just how difficult it would be to fit after the flightdeck is fitted. The join in the middle of the flightdeck has been filled and sanded down, the same needs to be done to the stern of the ship. John
  8. Greetings again all, Here is my other 'completed' ship build. This was originally started in the Non Injection GB but unfortunately time got the better of me and I didn't finish until just recently. This is HMS Renown around the turn of the century before the introduction of the Dreadnaughts. Although designated as a battleship she didn't have much wartime action but was a favourite of Admiral Jackie Fisher who designated her as his Yacht. This is the Combrig 1:700 kit which is quite excellent in my view although the construction instructions are very sparse (Just as well us blokes ditch them anyway before we start!). The moldings are beautiful and the fit is on the main very good. I have seen several pictures of the kit built up online and they all depict her in the later white scheme which is very attractive but I wanted to do something different. I then came accross this pic of her (allegedly) in Halifax Harbour, Nova Scotia. This being my adopted homeport, I thought I would go for this and also as a new venture for me I opted for a seascape, although it would be an easy one as she is anchored in a calm harbour! So here she is, the etch is from spare frets I have kicking around, Paint is Model Master Acrylics apart from the mustard yellow whichis Humbrol enamal, rigging is very fine black thread .....and to be honest a little made up along with the mast build up (artistic license if you please!). I have used the water colour method for the seascape, and painted on various shades of heavily thinned blue acrylic, this was then oversprayed with a (supposedly) gloss sealer. Depicted at anchor in a time period where she had her secondary armmament and torpedo nets removed (when exactly I don't really know!) with the first liberty boat of the early morning set off to collect the Officers from last nights run ashore. And for those interested, here is the build thread which contains a couple more pictures of the original http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234982491-hms-renownno-not-that-one-the-gin-palace/ Thanks for looking Bob
  9. Masts and 14 Barrels 1:350/700 Master Models Master Models continue to build their range of accessories and barrels in both 1:350 and 1:700. Having released two sets of yardarms in both scales, they have now released two sets of tapered masts to go with them. [sM-350-89] The first of the mast sets is contained in the standard Master packaging, only the internal bag is compartmentalised, allowing each of the four masts to be slid into their own pouch. Each mast is 100mm or 4 inches in old money and are meant to used as the main section on larger ships masts.. [sM-350-90] Set two in 1:350 also contains four mast sections, each 100mm long, but these are more tapered and a meant for use as the top sections on larger masts or the main section for smaller ships masts. The tips of these are quite sharp so be aware when using them and you might want to keep any models with them fitted in a case, as they could easily damage an eye for the unwary. [sM-700-47] For those modellers who like their ships in 1:700 scale, Master Models have masts sets for you too. Set one once again has four mast, as per the 1:350 sets, but each are 60mm long. Whilst they are meant to be used as the main section of larger ships in the smaller scale, they could also be used in :350 ships for the very top of taller masts. [sM-350-48] This second set also has four masts, again each 60mm long and again for use as the top sections of large ships masts, but could also be used on smaller ships. They could also be used as gaffs and other mast parts on larger scale ships. Now these are the sharpest of the four mast parts and boy are they sharp. I actually drew blood trying to get one out of the packaging, so the warning above is even more relevant with these. [sM-700-50] This and the next set return to what Master do best, and that is to make turned metal barrels for model warships. This set contains twelve 14 barrels for use with the Tennessee and New Mexico class battleships. These barrels are for use when there are no blast bags fitted to the model. [sM-700-51] This second set of 14 barrels is as per the set above, only for use when blast bags are fitted to the turrets. Conclusion I just love what Master do. Everything is so precise and realistic looking, which is exactly what we, as modellers, are looking for. The mast sections will be a real boon to those who dislike the slightly bent look that injection moulded masts can get when the rigging is attached, with these sections and the yardarms mentioned earlier, you will have a nice sturdy mast. Just be careful when handling and once built. The barrels are just what we have come to expect from Master Models and make for very convincing replacements to the injection moulded parts, which can look quite clunky in comparison. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  10. So I have been flicking through this GB since it started looking at the fantastic builds on offer and now I have finally succomed and been suckered into it! I managed to find a pure resin kit in my stash and this is the one I shall present. It is the very fine Pre Dreadnaught HMS Renown from Combrig in 1:700 scale. She is very small and very fine, I just hope I can do her justice! Any hoo here are the pics I also found the remains of a GMM 1:700 British Battleship etch fret. I was glad about this as it has railings ladders and also the admirals walk railings which will make alot of difference. I will mount here on a wooden slab that I have kicking around, and will also attempt my first sea scape. I have been umming and erring about seascapes for years so have now committed myself to it. I saw this pick of her on the web apparently off Halifax, Nova Scotia in 1897. As this is now my hometown I shall do a scene along these lines. She will be in her black scheme at anchor with maybe a couple of 'Liberty Boats' chugging around. During research I managed to uncover alot of pictures of both the black and white schemes. Also I have come accross a couple of builds in her white scheme but nothing of her earlier set up. This could be an web exclusive, the first build up of her in the black scheme! How many of you can claim a unique build like that eh? .............. then again looking at most of the builds in this GB that would be most of you More to come soon! Bob
  11. Maritime Accessories 1:700 Master Models As with their 1:350 range Master Models continue to build up their range of 1:700 scale armament sets, and they are also including the other accessories as seen in the larger scale. Some of the parts are ridiculously small, and there must be some kind of magic to be able to turn parts as small as these. [700-043] The first set contains 10 barrels, depicting the British 12” gun as used by the battleships Lord Nelson, Dreadnought, Bellerophon, plus Battlecruisers Invincible and Indefatigable. These barrels do have a tiny bit of flash that will need to be removed before fitting. [700-044] This set contains 26 12pdr (3”/50) 18cwt QF Mark 1 barrels as used in the Dreadnought, Lord Nelson, King Edward VII and Minotaur classes. These tiny turned barrels beggar belief in how something so small can be turned. [700-045] This set is the equivalent of those in reviewed in 1:350, but even smaller, and consists of a selection of turned brass yardarms. The contains two of each size which are 5mm, 7.5mm, 10mm, 12.5mm, 15mm, and 17.5mm. As with the larger scale yards, these are very prone to being bent, more so, in-fact, so great care should be taken removing them from the packaging and when handling them during a build. [700-046] As with the larger scale set, this second set of yardarms provides the modeller with another six yards, similar to the above set, but of the larger yards. There is one yard per size and come in 20mm, 22.5mm, 25mm, 27.5mm, 30mm and 32.5mm. Oh yes! These and the other yardarms were blooming hard to photograph. Conclusion I thought that the parts in the 1:350 scale sets I reviewed were small, but these sets take the biscuit. They are just so exquisite though and a wonder of the turning art. I’d love to see the machines these are made on. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  12. Hello! After some twenty years managing L'Arsenal, it is now time to retire and give place to a young and enthusiastic team ! My friends Mélaine and Philippe Perrotin will continue the job, and will offer to modelers the same level of service and quality that one can expect from L'Arsenal A new website with the same address will replace the old one on 21 February, new address and phone numbers will be indicated at this moment. But the old team will remain in place to design models and accessories! (We were too sad to leave you, ha, ha !) The output of new kits will raise significantly as it was no more possible to design, produce, sell, do the paperwork and workshop cleaning with only two persons ! L'Arsenal moves from the beautiful shores of Normandie to another wonderful place, the harbour of La Rochelle, so the maritime adventure continues ! Best regards from Normandie, Jacques Druel Jacques, Philippe and Mélaine
  13. Miscellaneous items 1/700 Atlantic Models Sometimes, when building a model there are items that you’d love to add that extra bit of detail without having to go to the expense of buying a full set for which you’d only use a few parts. Well Peter Hall at Atlantic Models has thought of that, and released these two sets of etched brass just for those occasions. Both sheets are quite small due mainly to the scale, but they provide enough parts to detail a whole ship. Ratlines ATEM 06: This single sheet set gives the modeller exactly what it says on the tin, a set of sixteen thin brass ratlines to detail your latest windjammer creation. There are six paired sizes provided with two sizes having four pairs so you should be able to have the correct length for the different sections of the masts. The packet actually states they can be used for both 1:600 and 1:700 scales which makes them even more useful. Railings ATEM 08: Another single sheet set, but this one contains some incredibly fine railings for use with pre-dreadnought era ships. There are three styles provided with between six and seven lengths per style. More than enough to fit out a medium sized model. Conclusion These are a great pair of very useful sets for the 1/700 scale modeller. As usual they have been beautifully designed and etched although the brass used is very thin, so care will need to be taken when bending and fitting. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of Peter Hall of
  14. HMS Plymouth MT Miniatures1:700 HMS Plymouth is a Rothesay-class frigate, which served from 1959 to 1988. She was built at Devonport Dockyard, in her namesake city of Plymouth, and launched by Viscountess Astor on 20 July 1959. During her commissions, Plymouth served in a variety of locations, including the Far East and Australia. She saw action in the Cod Wars between the United Kingdom and Iceland and also the Falklands War in 1982. In which not only was she the ship on which the surrender of the Argentine forces on South Georgia was signed, but was also hit by five bombs and cannon fire during the landings of The Falklands Islands, all the bombs failed to explode and the ship was saved through good damage control and fire fighting. The following year, she served as the West Indies guard ship. On 11 March 1984 she was involved in a collision with the German Köln-class frigate Braunschweig and in 1986 she suffered a boiler room fire, killing two sailors. HMS Plymouth was decommissioned on 28 April 1988, and was the last Type 12 in service. The model The model is packaged in a plain brown cardboard box, on which a picture of the completed kit and the kit details are printed. Inside, the parts are in separate poly bags and covered in poly chips. The instructions, consisting of a single side of A4 are really just an exploded view of the parts with arrow point to their positions. They are not particularly clear and will take some patience to decipher. The hull and superstructure of the ship is moulded as one complete, waterline part. The moulding is very good with some very finely done detail. The only clean up required is the moulding stub under the stern, and a couple of points on the funnel, transom and mainmast. The metal parts, which consist of the main twin 4.5" turret, two 20mm Oerlikons, director, foremast, ships boat, seacat launcher, limbo mortar, search radar, and navigation radar. These parts look a little rough and will take quite a bit of cleaning up before fitting, whilst the main turret looks slightly odd, perhaps a little too long and the guns are of different lengths, but this can easily be sorted. The Limbo mortar also looks slightly too large. The ships boat appears to have been moulded the wrong way round in that the davits are on the wrong side and. If launched, the boat would be lowered into the water stern first. The Wasp helicopter is very basic and needs quite a bit of flash to be removed. The small etched sheet is a generic set, based on all the Rothesay class that MT Miniatures do, but gives the Plymouth the required yards, railings, flightdeck netting, and the fore and aft flag staffs. There is a separate fret containing just the main rotor for the Wasp which doesn't appear to be correct, in that it has wider chord tips thatn the rest of the rotor blades. The brass is well etched and with very fine detail, so care will need to be taken when fitting the parts to the model. The three tiny decal sheets provide the ships pennant numbers, Union flag and Ensign, plus the flightdeck markings. Conclusion Whilst it is very nice to have a Type 12 frigate in model form, and considering the work that the designer has taken with detailing the hull and superstructure, it is a shame that the same amount of care wasn't taken with the metal parts. I may have been spoilt with what I see other companies do in this scale, and feel that this could have been an excellent model, rather than just nice and good in parts. I can recommend this model as long as you're prepared to put some work into it. Review sample courtesy of:
  15. This week I got a copy of White Ensigns new 1:700 HMS Coventry - the plan being to convert her to sister ship HMS Curlew as my grandfather was gunnery officer aboard her when sunk off Norway in 1940. White ensigns Coventry portrays the ship after conversion to anti-aircraft cruiser in the late thirties (converted alongside Curlew). Have been asked if I'd post some pix - so here they are. Casting quality is excellent - with only a little cleanup being required. The hull is a lovely single piece casting with some beautiful detail - only marred by a few tiny pin-holes on one part of the deck and some of the tiny detail broken in places - very easily fixed. The instructions look good - although I'm going to have to try and find some refs for Curlew in 1940 - if anyone knows any of the changes required to convert Coventry to Curlew I'd love to hear - am already aware that I need an extra pair of 4" guns. My first resin ship kit - and my first in 1:700 - all a little scary - but we'll see what we can do! Iain
  16. K class submarine K-12 1:700 In 1913 an outline design was prepared for a new submarine class which could operate with the fleet, sweeping ahead of it in a fleet action. At that time the only way which they could have sufficient surface speed, of 24 knots (44 km/h), to keep up with fleet was to be steam powered. In a fleet action, the submarines would get around the back of the enemy fleet and ambush it as it retreated. Six improved versions, K22 to K28 were ordered in October 1917 but the end of the First World War meant that only K26 was completed. Although powered on the surface by oil-fired steam turbines, they were also equipped with an 800 hp (0.6 MW) diesel generator to charge the batteries and provide limited propulsive power in the event of problems with the boilers. This pushed the displacement up to 1,980 tons on the surface, 2,566 tons submerged. They were equipped with four 18 inch (460 mm) torpedo tubes at the bow, two on either beam, and another pair in a swivel mounting on the superstructure for night use. The swivel pair were later removed because they were prone to damage in rough seas. They were fitted with a proper deckhouse built over and around the conning tower which gave the crew much better protection than the canvas screens which had been fitted in previous Royal Navy submarines. The great size of the boats compared to their predecessors led to control and depth keeping problems particularly as efficient telemotor controls had not yet been developed. This was made worse by the estimated maximum diving depth of 200 ft (60 m) being much less than their length. Even a 10 degree angle on the 339 ft (103 m) long hull would cause a 59 ft (18 m) difference in depth of the bow and stern, and 30 degrees would produce 170 ft (50 m) which meant that while the stern would almost be on the surface, the bow would almost be at its maximum safe depth. The problems were made even more dangerous because the eight internal bulkheads were designed and tested during development to stand a pressure equivalent to only 70 ft (20 m). Overall the class were pretty ineffective with several being sunk in accidents including the fateful day when two were sunk in collisions, one after being hit by HMS Fearless and one by another K class trying to get out of the way of the same ship. Only one torpedo was fired in anger, hitting a German U-Boat, but unfortunately it didn’t explode. The last of the class due to be built were cancelled to make way for the equally ineffective M class. The last of the K’s were disposed of in 1926. The Model The model comes in a small, rather feeble top opening green box with a rather fuzzy picture of K-12 at sea on the surface streaming smoke from funnels. Inside are a couple of pages of A4 instructions, which are pretty indistinct, showing major parts placement on one page, with side and top views on the other page. There are no colour callouts or any hint of what colours should be used to paint the completed model. Under the instructions there is a small plastic bag with the resin parts. Whilst there is quite a bit of flash and excess resin, the parts are well moulded with very few imperfections and no visible air bubbles. The main hull section and all the smaller parts, such as the island deck, foreplanes, funnels and main guns are all on one “sheet” of resin and will need some careful removal as the parts are small and quite fragile. The superstructure is on a separate “sheet” and, being more robust, the excess resin can be snapped off fairly easily. The single hull part in my example is quite warped, but, being waterline this will be countered by being well glued to a base. Construction is pretty simple, once the parts have been removed the superstructure is fitted to the hull, with some careful checks with references to fit it in the correct position. The superstructure deck can then be added, followed by the deckhouse, guns and funnels. Finally the large foreplanes should be added. The biggest disappointment with the kit is the lack of etched parts. Although the instructions show the tall masts, periscopes, and flagstaffs, none of the these are included. The distinctive railings around the ship are also missing. This is a great shame, but not insurmountable as the parts can be scratch built and there are sets of etched railings from other manufacturers that could be used. The length of the completed model is 6" (150mm) Conclusion It’s great to see a K class in model form that is easier to pick up than the long OOP Pitroad example. With a little bit of work on the model and displayed in a nice seascape it can be built into a pleasing example of this very unusual class of submarines. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of:
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