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  1. Hello! I know I haven’t been in the forum for a long time, but that’s how it is with me. We started a little weekend project yesterday. My wife is happy because another box is disappearing on my closet. “Saetta” straight out of the box and without additives. Only these masks I make myself for the glazing. So far, only the contents of the box. It’s a pity there aren’t any extras. The studio isn’t finished yet, so the photos are completely finished. The glazing is beautiful and transparent. Painting is also chosen.
  2. As I've been promising, this new thread follows on very quickly from the MTB, it is intended as a companion model and will cover the larger BPB boat before the addition of torpedo tubes. I've been working on the drawings while competing the MTB and so here we are ready to start building. For those who are not familiar with the type, this illustration from the Osprey British Motor gunboat publication gives a great idea of what the model should end up looking like I've managed to source about 10 high quality images of this class on-line, here are a couple of the better ones, MGB 75 and MGB 107 I've searched hard but can't find any commercially available model drawing sets, but the Haynes workshop manual featuring MGB81, the historic preserved MGB, is a great source of information and contains two extremely good drawing sheets that scale rather well and provide accurate lines. I've been able to scan, re-align and re-scale these and had them printed as A1 pdf's. They are based on drawings held by the IWM archive and to my delight, a number of the builder's drawings have been scanned and are available to purchase as art prints. Screen grabs of these provide useful back-up information and additional detail which is great. As It seems a shame that commercial model drawings are not available, this time, I really intended to completed a model markers set of plans that others could use. I'll make these available at both 1:48th scale and 1:72nd scale, more on that at the end of the build. The model will be 18 inches long, a nice size to work with. Here are some of the refence material I'll be using, the pdf reproduction of the Haynes drawings included below I'm not sure I should post a copy of the Haynes manual drawings here, but as a teaser, here is one of the IWM art prints you can buy (full size copies of original drawings, would look great framed) So, overall I'm happy there is enough detail for me to build a decent model of these vessels, one of the key criteria for me to start a project. If you are wondering why I've included the Anatomy of the ship Fairmile D book, it actually has the best drawings of the twin Oerlikon power turret which was shared with the dog boats. The Vickers 2prd turret on the bow is identical to that fitted on the SGB so I've already built one of those and have the etching drawings of the mount, the props look the same (as far as I'm concerned) as the MTB, I have a 3d model of Holman projector and the right smoke machine so this should be easy eh... I didn't have a drawing of the twin Oerlikon, but I do now This, together with the 2 pdr and the props are being cast by Shapeways and should be here in a couple of weeks, the guns in brass and the props in bronze, £80 for all 5 pieces inc shipping. So, progress to date, I've re-drawn the times and checked the gunwale, and chine alignments, that Haynes manual drawing is really good.. The whaleback deckhouse was slightly off, but I used the IWM construction drawing to correct it, think I have it right. Here is my outline lines drawing, the starting place for the frame drawing. On interesting point is the outer rudders are angled at @10 degrees to the vertical, that's a little challenge to get right. For this hull, I'm reverting to balsa infill hull construction which is then covered in diagonal planking. The MTB wasn't a great success in my mind as the inner curvature of the lower hull really didn't work well because the planking had no intermediate support. Also, the simple balsa infill I used on the S-boote actually leaves you able to see the frames in some lights which is bad. This combination approach should solve both these issues, it is what I used on the Fairmile B but that all happened before I started posting so I'll cover this in full detail here. This sectional drawing shows how the hull and deck house will be constructed. The deck-house top box stringers are deliberately composite as they curve in 2 directions and a single piece of wood would be too stiff and might actually warp the hull. The chine stringer is horizontal to allow the balsa blocks to be slid in, I'll show all this in the build. The vertical slot in this frame at the top is there to receive the open bridge side piece which connects frame 6 and 7. Frame 6 was moved forward a small amount to form the forward bulkhead of the open bridge, details details.... A new thing I'm trying on this project is the two locking bars, we'll see if they work. As I've said before, bent hulls are not good and using 1.6 mm ply for a keel is easily bent by the gluing process. Before I've dropped the deck-house into an open box structure on the lower hull and this box helps keep everything straight. With this whale-back deckhouse which curves in 3 dimensions, that isn't possible (well anything is possible, its just not easy) so I've drawn two side bars in the plan which will (I hope) slot through all the frames and then slide towards the keel to lock them and the frames in place to make sure it is all straight. Stick with me and you see what I mean From the lines above, each frame then needs splitting out, re-drawn to allow for the outer planking and the slots set in for the longitudinal timbers. The result is the following cutting plan, locking side bars at the bottom This was then turned into cutting artwork (colour changes and re-grouping) for cutting from a 1 ft x 2ft sheet of 1.6 mm ply (I just love mixing units, keeps the brain active...). 2 days later, this arrived in the post from 4D for a very reasonable £55, I'm getting so lazy in my old age... Add some balsa from SLEC and strip-wood from Cornwall Model boats and you have a wooden hull kit in the making The outer planking will be done in pear wood, it will look fantastic and be such a shame to paint it... Build starts tomorrow Cheers Steve
  3. Kit - Airfix A05138 Paint - Acrylics (internals, checks, stripes, glare panel, etc). AK & SMS lacquers for NMF. Decals - Model Alliance & kit (stencils). Extras - None. NA P-51D Mustang / Mustang IV Assigned to Flt. Lt. A.S. Doley 19 Squadron RAF Acklington, Spring 1945 Been determined to build 'Dooleybird' for years simply because of 'that' box art from 1974. Had the MA sheet in the stash since the early 2000's and even had a set of resin 'gills' to fit the Hasegawa kit. BUT WAIT, Airfix announced they'd be doing a 1:48 British Mustang IV in 2019, so I ordered it locally and guess what... the 'finless' D-1 (A05138) turned up - b*gg*r !. Well I always wanted to do 'Frenesi' from the 357th FG anyways so why not, and that's when I discovered that all the parts for the Mustang IV except the Aeroproducts prop are in the box. OK, not an issue, let's just see if that the spare (Aeroproducts) prop in the Hasegawa kit fits ?... (spoiler alert) yes it does, and perfectly. So here t'is, 'Dooleybird' in 1:48 but not quite as Airfix intended and definitely not as the old Matchbox box-art showed. Kit builds nicely and any flaws in the finish are mine alone - and there are plenty of flaws. This is the third paint job that this build has worn, no idea how I 'effed-up' the previous two, but I did, spectacularly however both times I somehow managed to save the painted-on yellow stripe & checks. Please don't look too closely at the NMF, it's much rougher than I'd normally do, TBH after three tries I was just happy not to have a thumbprint in the paint ! As ever please feel free to ask a question, offer a comment or scream abuse, it's all fine. Next will be another Series 5 Airfix build, then on to a couple of Fw 190's. All the best from NZ. Ian.
  4. First and last - Supermarine Spitfire -1:48 Eduard Mk. 1 & Airfix Mk. 22 Not my usual area of subjects but I just could not resist Eduards 'First of the Few' dual combo boxing of the Spitfire. It did not disappoint, being an absolute joy to build. Naturally this led to me wanting a late mark spitfire to compare it with, so the Airfix 22/24 was purchased to go with it. I'm not into excessive weathering, preferring a lighter and more subtle approach with 'less is more!' No more intro is really needed, so on with the photos. Spitfire Mk.1 19 Squadron RAF Duxford 1938 Spitfire F. Mk.22 No. 607 (County of Durham) Squadron And because the Eduard kit is such a lovely model to build, I've started on a few more! 19 Squadron RAF Fowlmere 1940. F/Sgt George Unwin. Shades of the old Airfix 1:24 kit, 54 Squadron RAF Hornchurch May 1940. P/O Al Deere RNZAF. Now, time to get on with the Eduard Vb and IX in the stash! Thanks for looking, John
  5. More than 20 years after finishing my last model I felt I wanted to try out some modelling again! Last time I was "active" was in 1999-2000 or so, when I moved out from my parents house. Out of my old builds nothing is left except for some photos, but I recall some fun builds like the revell F101-B Voodoo in 1:72 and the Airfix S A Bulldog in the same scale, and of course also the Airfix Bf109 in 1:24. So, after many years I want to get off where I left and as a start I will try out with something rather easy where I can focus on trying out some new techniques. This turned out to be the Hasegawa P-47D in 1:48, so here we go! I started this build already in january 2020 but it was first now I decided to publish a build log of it - for this reason not all steps have been documented. The pace has not been the most rapid one, but I will drop some posts on the current progress and hopefully things will move faster now when I have the tools etc in place. The first thing I did was to replace the exhausts in the front with new ones that I made from beer can aluminium. The parts provided in the kit (seen on top of the exhausts in the photo) were not too convincing. The new ones were somewhat better even if the openings in the end felt a little too large. The rear (intercooler?) openings were good in shape but of course too thick as they are moulded parts. I considered removing them and replace them with brass, aluminium or crash moulded / vac formed plastic sheet, but in the end it turned out I could just carve them out and still get a decent result.
  6. Morning all Being a good way through my first 1:48 Tamiya kit (F15C) I’ve been bitten by this ‘big’ bug ! So starting to look for my next kit and being very green I’m not sure what goes together nicely and what doesn’t ? I’ve only ever built airfix, tamiya and revell before so know little aboutthe plethora of other manufacturers out there and their kit/moulding/instruction quality. I’m thinking either Flanker or Mig 29 at present but I’d also look at anything from late 70’s on too - Growler and Gripen have caught my eye as well. After the Tamiya kit (which for an old mould I have been really impressed with in the main) my main focus is quality mould and fit and a good (but not insane, I’m still learning!!) level of detail - complete authenticity and accuracy are (at this stage at least) slightly less important to me. Top on my list so far are one of the GWH Mig 29’s (though they seem a pig to find in the shops) or the Meng EA18 Growler. But I’d really appreciate some more experience on what else you guys have built and can recommend looking at Have a good weekend and Thanks in advance !
  7. Kit - Tamiya Paint - All acrylics Decals - LF 48-07 Extras - none Messerschmitt Bf 109E-3 Vanatoare Gr.7 Central Front Summer 1942 The Tamiya 1:48 109E kits are just great for quick builds, yes there are newer and better detailed kits around, but for sheer VFM, the Tamiya kits are hard to beat. I've added only belts made from masking tape and AM decals to this one because I wanted a quick project to keep my recent (Tamiya) Spitfire company on the shelf - also a factor was the very simple two-tone (three if you count the yellow) paint scheme. Nothing else really to say, the paintwork is heavily faded with pre & post shading which unfortunately my phones' camera isn't clever enough to bring-out so you'll just have to trust me on that. Not added the aerial wire yet because the next model show here isn't until November !! The Romanians were supplied a large number of refurbished 109E-3's in early 1941 just prior to the invasion of the Soviet Union, hence the title of the thread. Feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or criticism - yes I have dirtied-up the wheel hubs since I took the pics, they don't look as stark now. Have a great weekend everyone, all the best from a decidedly autumnal Middle Earth. Ian.
  8. Kit - Eduard 'Profipack' original issue. Paint - All acrylics. Decals - Kit & Aeromaster Extras - none. Bell P-39Q-20 Airacobra GC 1/5 'Champagne' Southern France September 1944 Not sure if this has happened to anyone else, but I genuinely forgot that I had this kit until it 'appeared' during a stash tidying session... happy, happy modeller ! Everything you see here comes from the Profipack box with the exception of a couple of decals. The build was so straightforward - not one to rush, you need to really think it through and read-ahead - but virtually problem free until you get to the wings which are realistically thick on the leading edge but unrealistically thick on the trailing edge. It's a known issue with the kit and easily solved with the robust application of 'some modelling skills'. After the usual primer-coat, I decided to try to achieve a heat-faded / bleached effect for the paint using the usual pre & post shading techniques and lightening the OD & NG tones (both Tamiya). I read that many of the French P-39Q's were taken from stockpiles that had been in North Africa for a few months in open storage so this is what I've tried to replicate. Weathering & leaks etc are mainly achieved with W & N oils and some MIG washes, the exhaust plume is Tamiya 'Buff', 'Red Brown' and dry-brushed oil-paint and I'm really pleased with how it came out.. Eduard would have you build the French 'option' as a late P-39Q-25 with a four-blade prop but by changing to a three-blade Q-20 and altering the side number I've employed a little artistic license (also explains the painted-over Stars'n Bars). It may upset a purist or two, but I can live with that. Please feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or criticisms. All the best from an Autumnal NZ. Ian.
  9. New title, because I'm now interested in converting the Meteor 1/3 (I have the original Tamiya kit, without the wing change), to an F.4. I know I need larger intakes, common to the Derwent 5 engine. My question is, how much larger, in 1:48, are the intakes of the 4 from the 1? Taking into account the use of the 1:48 Meteor from Tamiya. Also, if it's possible, I'd like to know the size of the base of the intake base to the wing (length and and hight) of the Tamiya kit, so I can send the measures to the man who'll print them
  10. Dassault Mirage IIIS/RS 1:48 Kinetic Models History In 1961, Switzerland bought a single Mirage IIIC from France. This Mirage IIIC was used as development aircraft. The Swiss Mirages were built in Switzerland by F+W Emmen (today RUAG, the federal government aircraft factory in Emmen), as the Mirage IIIS. Australia too, bought one French-made aircraft in preparation for licensed production. Cost overruns during the Swiss production led to the so-called "Mirage affair". In all, 36 Mirage IIIS interceptors were built with strengthened wings, airframe, and undercarriage. The Swiss Air Force required robustness comparable to that of carrier based planes; the airframes were reinforced so the aircraft could be moved by lifting them over other aircraft with a crane, as the aircraft caverns in the mountains that Swiss Air Force uses as bunkers offer very little space to manoeuvre parked aircraft. The strengthened frames allowed for JATO capability. The main differences to the standard Mirage III were as follows:- New US avionics with Changed cockpit design with gray instead of black panels New U.S. radar, TARAN-18 from Hughes Aircraft Company Use of HM-55S "Falcon" (Swiss designation of the SAAB Licence built Robot 27 (Rb27) which is similar to the Hughes AIM-26 "Falcon") Radar warning receiver (RWR) on both wingtips and on the back of the rudder Strengthened structure for use of JATO-Rockets Retractable nosecone and lengthened nosewheel leg for storing in Aircraft cavern. Four lifting points for moving aircraft in underground caverns with a crane Bay at the fin with a SEPR 841 rocket engine to double the velocity for short time or climb to 20,000 m (66,000 ft). US TRACOR AN/ALE-40 chaff/flare dispenser at the back under the end of the engine (fitted with the upgrade 1988). Canards designed and produced by RUAG Aerospace (fitted with the upgrade 1988) New Martin-Baker ejection-seat (fitted with the upgrade 1988). The Swiss Mirages are equipped with RWS, chaff & flare dispensers. Avionics differed as well, with the most prominent difference being that the Thomson-CSF Cyrano II radar was replaced by Hughes TARAN-18 system, giving the Mirage IIIS compatibility with the Hughes AIM-4 Falcon AAM. Also the Mirage IIIS had the wiring to carry a Swiss-built or French nuclear bomb. The Swiss nuclear bomb was stopped in the pre-production stage and Switzerland did not purchase the French-made one. The Mirage IIIS had an integral fuel tank under the aft belly; this fuel tank could be removed and replaced with an adapter of the same shape. This adapter housed a SEPR (Société d'Etudes pour la Propulsion par Réaction) rocket engine with its 300 l (79 US gal; 66 imp gal) nitric acid oxidiser tank. With the SEPR rocket, the Mirage IIIS easily reached altitudes of 24,000 m, an additional thrust of 1500 kp, the SEPR could be switched off and on minimum three times in a flight, a maximum use of 80 seconds was possible. In case of an emergency it was possible to jettison the SEPR Unit in low speed flight. The rocket fuel was very hazardous and highly toxic, so the SEPR rocket was not used very often, special buildings for maintenance were built in Buochs and Payerne and the personnel had to wear special protective suits. The Mirage IIIRS could also carry a photo-reconnaissance centerline pod and an integral fuel tank under the aft belly; this carried a smaller fuel load but allowed a back looking film camera to be added. In the early 1990s, the 30 surviving Swiss Mirage IIIS interceptors were put through an upgrade program, which included fitting them with fixed canards and updated avionics. The Mirage IIIS were phased out of service in 1999. The remaining Mirage IIIRS, BS and DS were taken out of service in 2003 The Model This is the fourth iteration of the Kinetic Mirage III kit, first released in 2014, you could say seventh, since three versions were also re-issued by Wingman Models. On opening the colourful box lid, which has two of the aircraft in flight, both in similar commemorative schemes, you will find nine sprues of medium grey styrene, one sprue of clear styrene and a large decal sheet. Kinetic have done a great job with the moulding, with very fine, recessed panel lines and rivet detail, raised areas where required, with no sign of flash or other imperfections and only a few moulding pips. The instructions are beautifully clear and easy to read and if the kit goes together as well as their recently released F-18C apparently does, then it will be a joy to build. Construction begins with the assembly of the six piece ejection seat, which, although nice, doesn’t have any belts to finish it off with, so you will have to resort to aftermarket items. The single piece cockpit tub is fitted out with an upper rear bulkhead, alternative instrument panel, depending on whether you are building the S or RS versions, joystick, rudder pedals and several black boxes. The kit comes with full length, split, air intake trunking with either side being assembled from two parts, and joining together just before the fan disk once the fuselage halves are closed up. There doesn’t appear to be a problem with join lines as they will be so deep within the fuselage you will be hard pressed to see them. With the intakes fitted, the cockpit tub, three piece nose wheel bay, two piece exhaust, with separate nozzle, and the separate fan disk are glued to one half of the fuselage, after which the fuselage can be closed up. Two holes on either side of the fuselage need to be opened up and the four lifting eyes fitted, for when the aircraft is hung from the ceiling of the tunnels that the Swiss used at the time. The fairing aft of the cockpit is then attached, along with the two outer intake fairings, which also need to have two holes drilled out for the canards, and the two upper pitot probes fitted just forward of the cockpit. The two upper wing panels are then attached to the single piece lower wing panel. This assembly is the fitted with the upper and lower airbrakes, two piece rear under-fuselage fairing, and two lower panels, with side of the fairing. Shame the rocket motor panel isn’t included, but I guess you can’t have it all. The wing assembly is then glued to the fuselage assembly and the whole model begins to look like an aircraft. The undercarriage is assembled next, with the three piece nose-wheel attached to the yoke, which in turn is attached to the nose wheel leg, which is then fitted with the lower nose bay door, landing lamps and scissor link. The assembly is then glued into position, followed by the main door, upper front door and main actuator. If you wish to pose the undercarriage up, the doors will need to have the fixing pins, and in the case of the main door, the actuator removed. The lower panel, underneath the cockpit is then fitted, along with a pair of probes and a pair of aerials. The main undercarriage are ach made from a three piece wheel, three part leg and two doors, which again need the pins removed if they are to be posed closed. A bit more detailing includes the fitting of the fin fillet, canards, two upper fuselage intakes, a panel above the rudder, the windscreen, canopy and a choice of nose cones. The simple S nose is made from two halves and the pitot probe, whilst the camera nose for the RS is made from two halves, a lower panel, a camera bar insert and the pitot probe. On the underside of the wing the flight control actuator fairings are attached, and there is a choice of flap fairings depending on whether the modeller wishes to pose the flaps retracted or deployed. The same goes for the two pylons. The separate flaps and flaperons are then attached, followed by two, two piece drop tanks finishing the build. Whilst the kit comes with another pair of tanks, rocket pods and a pair of missiles, these aren’t used with this variant. Decals The decals appear to be designed and printed by Kinetic themselves; they look pretty good, being in register, good colour density and quite glossy, which matches the glossy scheme the aircraft should be painted in. There are large and small roundels, plus a set of low vis roundels. The kit does come with a full set of stencils and warning symbols. The options are:- Mirage IIIRS R-2110 “Mirage Swiss Farewell” Staffel 10, Swiss Air Force, Buochs Air Base, 2003 Mirage IIIRS R-2116 “Mirage Swiss Farewell” Staffel 10, Swiss Air Force, Buochs Air Base, 2003 Mirage IIIRS R-2111, Staffel 10, Swiss Air Force, Buochs Air Base, 2002 Mirage IIIS J-2327, Staffel 16, Swiss Air Force, Sion Air Base, 1998 Conclusion I’ve not seen other versions of the Kinetic Mirage, but I really like this one, and I’m not normally an aircraft modeller. There is something special about the Mirage III series that brings back memories of seeing them at airshows when I was a kid. The options and colour schemes with the kit will make a nice addition to any collection.
  11. My second finished kit. Top notch Eduard quality. Easy cartograph decals. Any mistakes and inaccuracies are my fault, not Eduard's lost one gunbarrel, used piece of copper instead. Don't be judgemental please it's my second build and the learning curve is long. Enjoy guys.
  12. Manual-feeding a multi-page drawing set through a work-from-home bubble-jet printer ... loitering at the computer ... what better time to start a new thread! All going to plan, this thread will lead to a two-part finish! Finish 1 My local club is working towards an ambitious goal to mark the RAAF's 100th Anniversary; as part of the annual ScaleACT public show (for 2021, COVID delayed to February 2022) the club is preparing a display of one of every machine the RAAF has ever operated. This has involved much effort by the subcommittee to collate & administer a master spreadsheet, collecting members builds & new-build commitments to account for all types. I have found one of the dwindling final remaining machines which works for me, this Percival Vega Gull, as operated by RAAF No 1 Communications Unit & No 82 Wing Headquarters: This machine was 'impressed' into service in January 1940, retaining it's civil maroon & silver paint scheme, with registration replaced by roundels & RAAF serial no. As shown here on DEKL'S II decals sheet; So my plan is to build and finish in this scheme, to contribute to the club display, but with decals not sealed in, so they can later be easily stripped off ... Finish 2 Before stepping in for war service, this privately-owned machine was quite a competitor, being entered into at least two pre-war air races. One of these was the 1936 South Australian Centenary Air Race, from Brisbane to Adelaide, and this machine was the winner of the Speed Section! Despite the race being over 1,440 miles - via Coffs Harbour, Sydney & Cootamunda in NSW, then Melbourne & Nhill in Victoria, and on to Parafield South Australia - the Vega Gull beat the second-place Stinson Reliant by a mere 1½ sec!! So after I peel off the RAAF decals, I will add VH-UVG registration & race number 49 in white circle like so, returning it to pre-war race livery to sit with my other air racers: This is the kit, received in the post earlier this week: And this oh-so-beautiful sole surviving - airworthy - UK machine shall be my benchmark for the 'maroon & silver' base scheme common to this machine's RAAF & Racer finishes: OK, printing nearly finished, time to sign-off. February deadline requires rapid action, so I ought to have something to post of progress soon ...
  13. A bit of a departure from my normal subject.. a More modern 'jet' though this is strictly speaking a Turbofan engined bird! It was the kit that got me back in to modelling which I started nearly 2 years ago.. on the ordnance load. I got side tracked in to my real love and interest WW2 planes... its a very well thought out kit in my opinion. The engines and the wings marry up nicely with the fuselage.i decided I'd like to depart from the serving suggestion of a cammo model pattern and go for a Grey scheme. I've not decided which decal set to use yet but I'm not that bothered about historical accuracy for this project. I just wanted to enjoy the build and experiment with something new.. that doesn't have a propellor! I got some AK Real Colours US Modern Aircraft Greys paint set and so far I've sprayed Grey Vallejo Primer and then the Dark Ghost Grey sections. I did think I could just use Primer and maybe mix my own Dark Ghost Grey but a little research encouraged me to splash out on the rather excellent AK set. The model is surprisingly large for 1:48 scale. I think this is my perception as I've been engaged doing smaller WW2 planes so much ! I've enjoyed the kit so far . I made some mistakes on the painting of the ordnance load I know.. apologies in advance .. but I'm finding the masking tasks a bit too much so I'll make it look mean and ready for a fight rather than accurate.. Any advice on weathering , especially the turbo fan exhaust patterns/ colours would be gratefully received! Also I'm guessing that the overall General weathering would be very restrained for this type of aircraft? I'm thinking non combat situations allow more time for cleaning aircraft and maintaining them ? I've always liked the Warthog. It looks like it means business! Here's a shot of the progress so far...Regards, Andy
  14. Kit - Tamiya 61032 Paint - All Mr, Color lacquers Decals - spares & Superscale Extras - none Spitfire Mk.I 611 (West Lancs) Squadron RAF Digby Summer 1940 One of my favourite [modelling] memories is the first time I built this kit sometime in the late 1990's. It was, I think, the first Tamiya 1:48 kit I ever built and it was a revelation. Fast forward to now and I bought this from a club member for very few dollars simply because I really wanted to re-live that original 'rush' of building a quality kit without extras just for the joy of it. Yep it was an absolute joy. Three weeks start-to-finish and easily as good as I remember it from first time around. Not too much more to tell (unlike the Airfix F.XVIe which I built alongside it !) - first time using all Mr. Color lacquers and apart from the horrendous odour, a great experience and now firmly set as my 'go to' paints for as many builds as possible. Still have a load of enamels and acrylics, but I will use these as often as possible. Superscale decals were probably twenty years old and behaved perfectly, their Quality Control back in the day was incredible IMHO. Just in-case you were wondering about the 'local' reference... I'm Liverpool born & bred, and before moving out here to Middle Earth, I lived about a mile from RAF Woodvale so 611 West Lancs Sqn is as about as local as I could get ! - Thanks all for taking the time to look, all comments, questions and outrage welcomed. Best from NZ. Ian.
  15. Kit - Airfix 2007 limited release Paint - Tamiya acrylics, Mr. Color lacquers. Decals - spares, kit & Dutch Decal 48036 Extras - None Spitfire F.XVIe Sqn. Ldr. Ron Gold 322 (Dutch) Squadron, 2 TAF Twente, Spring 1945. So contrary to the Tamiya Spitfire that I built simultaneously, this was not a good experience. The fit - especially the wing-to-fuselage joint was horrendous with lots of plastic-card 'packing' and then filler needed. Details were are soft and poorly defined, panel lines are all engraved, but I would question the accuracy of some and the prop & spinner - I believe it's the same as that fitted to the Mk.IX ? but just looks out of scale and bulbous to my non-expert eye. All that said, I really wanted a late-mark Spit' on my shelf and wasn't inclined to go out and buy the Eduard kit, when I already had this in the stash for years. So yes there are problems, no it doesn't look too 'flash' but it'll never leave the cabinet so in a way, I've achieved what I wanted. As ever comments, questions etc, etc welcomed. All the best from NZ. Ian.
  16. Hello all, hope this might interest some. I started posting some WIP on another platform (which shall remain nameless) but I've found it doesn't have the same 'thread' logic which this forum has provided. So forgive me eloping - I'm back, suitably humbled. This is a new 'quick' (for me) project. Selected because it's small, white (still got some paint from the last project), interesting & - importantly - a biplane without bracing! The Knight Twister - a kit design dating back to the 1920's - in much modified "Imperial" air racer form, as built & competitively raced by former WWII B-24 tail-gunner C.D 'Don' Fairbanks. As a racer it follows that the little plane was constantly tinkered with to improve or maintain its competitiveness. So there are many variations throughout the photographic record, and as now fixed for perpetuity in a Museum. I'll be working to represent one of the earliest incarnations (1971ish), mostly because this most closely aligns with the configuration offered in the kit. Photos here show that phase:
  17. Hello! This is one of my freshly finished models. My first hungarian plane but not the last at all. The base kit is eduard's wonderful 109G-6 and upgraded it with the BigSin package (DB605 engine, radio compartment, propeller and machine guns, wheels). The resin parts are superb in detail quality but the fit into the fuselage was terrible. It's an eduard product that must fit into an another eduard product...but the reality is that you must forget the instructions and make dozens of dryfits (especially with the engine) or you will mess all of it. A lot more surgery is needed on the base kit to fit the resin into it. But the results are satisfying in my opinion. There are only one photo about this "red 2" Messer, it shows repaired damaged on the left wing painted with RLM02. The paintjob done with Mr. aqueous color acrilycs sprayed with a H&S Evolution 0.2mm. Hope you like it.
  18. Hello guys, Here's my last completed build, the vintage Smer 1/48 Lim-6R, a polish licence build MiG-17, by PZL Mielec. The R is for this type having an additional camera bay under fuselage, for tactical recon missions. The kit was first released in 1977 and it's showing its age : heavy plastic, sparse details and trench-like panel lines that even Matchbox wouldn't blush from . I've been recycling a Tamiya MiG 15 cockpit tube and added a Quickboost resin seat, as well as the excellent brass guns and pitot from the Master range. Paints are various mixes out of Gunze acryl. Hope you'll like her and as usual, comments an critics are most welcome. the complete build article can be found on my blog : ---- Hangar 6
  19. Hello folks, This is the now old Hasegawa F-14, the fitting was terrible, putty was extensively used. The Iran Air Force still fly the tomcat but nowadays it looks more like a flying museum rather that a lethal weapon. Anytime Baby!
  20. Kit - Kinetic 1:48 Paint - All Tamiya acrylics Decals - Kit Extras - Missiles from RoG Rafale kit, Pavla resin 'Dash 5' nose, Aires resin & etch MB10 seat. Mirage 2000C-9 United Arab Emirates AF Al Dhafra AB 2010. Had this kit for a long time but like a couple of other recent builds, been waiting for my 'skills' to get to a point where I feel confident enough to have-at-it !!. It's not a straightforward build by any means, and the crude instructions (with no paint call outs) do not help much. But because I've built the Kinetic F-5A & Alpha Jet, I was sort of prepared for a more challenging build process. Where this kit excels is the surface detail, it is exquisite with beautifully refined panel lines, sharp trailing edges and crystal clear canopy parts. There's A LOT in the box, including four separate fins and many of the sprues from the 2000D/N kit of which for this version you only need one of the fins - because those parts were moulded even better than the 'fighter' parts, where possible I swapped them over. The very pale camouflage grey was mixed using the (in)famous Mk.I eyeball method and the darker tone is Tamiya Medium Sea Grey (XF-83) straight from the bottle. I freehanded the pattern at first using my new Dragonair AB with a 0.2 needle/nozzle but it was just a little too 'vague' so I masked the edges with Blue-Tac and redefined the edges which was absolutely the best call, glad I did it. Not too much in the way of weathering as every photo that I went to showed UAE Mirages in fairly immaculate condition. I added a few streaks under the fuselage with dry-brushed oil tones and more heavily on the underside of the drop-tanks where the cr*p would be kicked-up from the runway surfaces. Not too much else to say, yes it's a bit of an effort to get built but given that the 1:48 alternatives are the Jurassic Era kits from Esci & Monogram or the very rare Heller kit then this is the 'only way to go' if you want a Mirage 2000 on your shelf - and I really did ! - feel free to comment, criticise or ask any questions. Following very soon will be something British in 1:72, in the meantime all the best from New Zealand. NOTE: I'm aware of the scratch on the left side of the canopy and am slowly reducing it with gentle sanding and polishing... it already looks better than in the photos. Ian.
  21. Hi, SPARKIT Models is a new French company that proposed 3D printed detailing sets, guns, wheels, ejection seat, engine. You find products in various scale, F-8 Crusader USN & French Navy ejection seat, Mirage III B/C/BE/E/R/RD wheels, MIRAGE IIIE/BE/R MIRAGE 5 - ATAR 9C EXHAUST, Mirage IV wheels ... https://sparkit-models.com/en/ Some sample products: Vickers gun S-3 Viking INTAKE AND EXHAUST SET : JAGUAR A AND E - MK.4 JRM EJECTION SEAT F-4 PHANTOM II - MK.H7 EJECTION SEAT US NAVY T-2 Buckeye - WHEEL SET DH VAMPIRE/SE535 MISTRAL - WHEEL SET (LATE TYPE) MIRAGE IVA/P - WHEEL SET Next product soon: Fouga Magister CM-170 Wheels Possible to follow on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any suggestions. I will update here with new products. SPang
  22. While doing further cleaning I came across a Hurricane Mk. II D from Hasegawa and after checking the contents of the bag because the box was gone, it turned out that the hanging cannons were missing. I already had a few extras purchased for the model, but not being able to make a "D" version I decided to take a look at the documentation I had and see what extras were in stores. I was interested in the offer from Montex-mask in which I found an interesting camouflage option for the "C" version so it will be created from this set. Originally it was supposed to be Hurrican Mk. II B from Polish Squadron and for it I had bought tracing paper from SP-DECAL, unfortunately life verified this idea. And to complete my happiness, I bought to the as-is condition in a pouch: - montex-mask K48257 - masks from AMLM 49031 - barrels from Master AM-48-085 - board from Yahu Models A4807 And in the found model bag I already had: - CMK No. 4011 - CMK No. 4012 - AIRES 4478 - EDUARD 49536 - QUICKBOOST QB 48 066 I'll see what comes out of it, a lot of extras so it will be a lot of fun too.
  23. I was lucky enough to see just a few operational French Crusaders in the beginning of the nineties. Especially a display of two of these ancient birds on the airshow of Brustem in 1994 made a lasting impression. The Revell rebox of the Monogram Crusader is a very enjoyable build.. Fit is very good and there's a lot of detail, especially considering the age of the kit. I used a Berna decalset, which was unimpresive: decals are very thick and not in register. I used mainly Vallejo and MiG acrylics for the finishing. Anyway, here are some pictures, hope you like them. Kind regards, Gerben
  24. Reggiane Re.2001 CN 1:48 SWORD First finished model this year. Night Italian Reggiane Re 2001 CN fighter in 1:48 scale from the company "Sword" in paint from "234-2", 234a sq. Night Fighter Unit, Rimini, 1943. The model itself is very nice to build, the fit of the parts is very good. I hardly used any putty, in a few places I used it. The decal is very readable, soft responds to liquids and has set up nicely. It's just a pity that the manufacturer didn't give a decal sheet with the stripes and the instrument panel. The biggest challenge was painting the black camouflage, and you can see how it came out in the photos below. Enjoy watching.
  25. Hello everyone! Another Italian has just landed on my workshop, because how could it be otherwise with me. Another model and this is Reggiane Re. 2001 CN from "Sword" SW48013 in night fighter version. This is the second 1:48 scale model of this aircraft released by "Sword", the first being SW48012 Re 2001 Falco II which I recently built here. Today just a photo of the box and tomorrow we'll see what's inside.
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