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KRAZ-260 Heavy Utility Truck Takom 1:35 History Production of the KrAZ-260 began some time during the early 1980s when it replaced the earlier KrAZ-255B on the production lines at the Kremenchug Motor Vehicle Plant. However, the vehicle was not disclosed to the general public until 1985 when examples were displayed towing 152-mm 2A36 nuclear-capable field guns during a Red Square parade - the KrAZ-260 can tow loads of up to 10 tons when fully loaded (30 tons when empty). The Red Square example had an open body equipped with forward-facing bench seats although this had been a parade configuration. The normal body uses a conventional cargo body with tailgate all covered by the usual tilt over bows. A winch is a standard fitting under the cargo body and can be employed for either forward or rearwards recovery, including self-recovery. The overall appearance of the KrAZ-260 is similar to that of the earlier KrAZ-255B but the bonnet is more angular to accommodate the turbocharged diesel engine, and the overall dimensions are slightly larger. As far as can be determined the KrAZ-260 was produced for military service only and as apparently not been delivered to armed forces outside the Soviet Union. The Model The kit comes in a sturdy top opening box with a artistic impression of the vehicle in use in a very snowy environment. Opening the box reveals seven sprues of caramel coloured styrene, one sprue of clear styrene, a small photo etched brass sheet, seven vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. The mouldings for all the parts are superb, with no sign of flash imperfections and very few moulding pips. As with most truck kits there are a lot of parts that will probably never be seen, particularly the very detailed chassis, suspension and engine, but in my view it’s better to have them than not. The build begins with the assembly of the gearbox, which is provided in two halve, and then finished off with a sump plate; this is followed by the two part engine block to which the gearbox is attached. Since the truck is powered by a V8 diesel there are two cylinder heads to assemble, again each of two halves, to which the injector rails and coils are attached. These are then fitted to the engine block, followed by the alternator, water pump pulley and fuel filter. The exhaust manifolds are next, followed by the CDR valve and oil filter. The turbocharger is assembled from three parts, the turbine housing, compressor housing and attachment plate; the assembly is then fitted with the outlet pipes. The completed sub-assembly is then fitted to the engine with each outlet pipe being attached to the intake manifolds and the turbo intake to the exhaust manifold. The oil cooler is then fitted to the engine block, along with the fan, accessory belt pulley and the exhaust pipe, to which a two part silencer section is fitted to the end, is attached to the turbo. The next part of the build is the assembly of the chassis. This consists of the two long chassis rails, to which the engine assembly is fitted at the front along with the radiator, whilst two thirds to the rear a cross member is attached. The front differential gear housing is assembled from two halves, to which a two part gear cover and universal joint are attached. Each wheel hub is made up of an inner and outer steering ball joint, hub backing plate, inner axle, and brake drum. These are then fitted to the ends of the differential along with the brake accumulators and steering rack. The two leaf spring parts are then fitted via four U bolts and clamps, much like the real parts. The front axle is then fitted to the chassis, as are the shock absorbers, front crossbeam, made up of four parts including the front towing eye, radiator fans housing and grille. There is a cable drum affixed between two crossbeams and fitted with a motor and control lever, this is then fitted to the rear of the chassis along with a curved crossbeam further forward. The transfer box is assembled and fitted just aft of the front axle and connected to the engine and front differential with two drive shafts. The rear suspension is now assembled from two suspension plates, two leaf springs, four U bolts and clamps. To this the two part rear differentials, which are 90o opposed when compared with the front, are fitted, along with their associated gear housings each made up of four parts, drive shafts, with separate universal joints, and suspension bump stops. The rear wheel hubs are much simpler affairs, made up of only an inner and outer brake drum and an internal axle. Once these are fitted to the differentials the completed rear suspension is attached to the rear chassis. The next stage includes the building of a number of sub-assemblies; these include the twelve part spare wheel cage which is attached to the six part generator housing, two seven part accumulator bottles and racks, two five part fuel tanks, six part oil tank and its rack, plus the three part cab foot step and six part tool box. These are then attached to their respective positions on the chassis along with the rear towing hook and end plate, reflectors and their outriggers and the rear lower crossbeam. With the chassis and suspension complete the build moves onto the truck bed. This is made up from the main bed, back panel and two side panels and rear panel completed with two footsteps. On the underside there are seven structural braces fitted, whilst on the back and sides there are twenty four tilt ties. Also on the underside the four mudflaps are attached, two forward of the rear wheels and two aft each with their support rods. The front mudguards are styrene whilst the rears are PE bent to shape. The completed bed is then fitted to the top of the chassis and the spare wheel, made up of a vinyl tyre plus inner and out hubs is slid into its cage on the right hand side. The last major assembly, the cab and bonnet begins with the windscreen frame/front bulkhead is fitted with the two windscreens, air vent panel, washer bulbs and wipers. On the inside of the bulkhead the inner panel/instrument binnacle is attached and fitted with the steering column, steering wheel, and pedal plate. The doors are then assembled from the door frame, “glass” and separate door card, whilst the rear bulkhead is fitted with the rear screen. The front and rear bulkheads plus the doors are then joined together before the roof, with its associated light fittings is attached. The interior floor is then fitted out with the bench like passenger seat, made up of separate squad and back which is then fitted to the base via the seat frame. The drivers seat which consists of the frame, squab, back and adjustment lever is fitted to the floor via a five piece spring like framework. The interior is completed with the fitting of the gearstick and the whole assembly is glued to the to the cab assembly, which is finished off with the addition of the two wing mirrors and there mounting supports. The bonnet wings are provided as slide moulded parts to which the separate front sections which include the light clusters pre-moulded are glued in place. The wings are then attached to the front lower grille before the upper name plate and the side grilles are fitted, after which the bonnet if attached. If you wish to have the bonnet raised to show off the engine you will have to scratchbuild your own hinges and gas struts. The headlight “glass” parts are then fitted before the cab and bonnet assemblies are attached to the chassis and the four part front bumper fitted. The finishing touches are the assembly of the six wheels, each with a vinyl tyre, inner and outer hubs, which are then fitted to the axles. Each of the vinyl tyres is very well moulded and look realistically chunky, but they do have a cross shaped section that needs to be cut away before the hubs can be fitted, but it shouldn’t take too much to clean them up, especially as the hub rims will cover the areas concerned. Decals The small decal sheet provides decals for four different colour schemes, two for the Russian Army, one green overall and one in a white and green camouflage, a Slovak Army example and one for the German Democratic Republic. Whilst there aren’t any external placards the instrument faces are provided. Conclusion Whilst this is quite a complicated kit to build in that there are a lot of detail parts, mainly for the chassis, it looks to have been well thought out and designed. It shouldn’t be too hard for anyone other than a novice modeller to build a great looking model. I imagine some will probably want to replace the vinyl tyres with resin ones, but it really isn’t necessary as the kits items are more than sufficient. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for

Pz.Kpfw.II Ausf.A This is a particular little devil of a build or at least it seems that way as you can see in the third picture that the track might be a huge problem to deal with. Not much to say about it yet.

M-103A1 for Dragon Black Label 1:35 Eduard Unfortunately the newish M-103A1 from Dragons Black Label has not been that well received reference accuracy, and whilst this new set from Eduard doesn’t address any of the issues, it can still add plenty of fresh detail to the completed model. The single sheet contains many of the same parts as in the previously reviewed set for the Dragon M48A3, which comes as no surprise as the real vehicles shared a lot in common. The M103 kit does appear to need more preparation in the removal of moulded details than the M48 but it’s generally worth the effort. Starting with the rear panel there are three new storage brackets complete with associated chains, a new chain for the rear tow hook, and new fittings for the rear lights. Two new curve splitter plates are inserted into the exhaust whilst new handles are attached to the engine deck doors. There is a new Jerry can holder complete with straps and buckle, brackets for the main headlight cluster and new vision port doors for the drivers position. For each track guard there is a large selection of new handles and clamps to be fitted for the tow cables, storage boxes and repair tools, along with a replacement too tray with yet more clamps for the pioneer tools. The raised plate on top of the turret in front of the commanders cupola receives new triangular strap handles, and a new “h” shaped main gun aiming marker, whilst the gunners hatch is fitted with a new hasp, clasp and padlock and the rangefinder ports are fitted with new brackets and D ring. Finally the 50cal machine gun has new barrel handle, sights, ammunition box tray, ammunition box, ammunition belt, gun mount and attachment chains. Conclusion This is a very nice and useful set for adding those extra details that go to make a really great looking model. The majority of parts are very small, right down to the wingnuts on some of the clamps so appropriate care should be taken when fitting them. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

M48A3 Patton for Dragon Smart kit 1:35 Eduard It seems that the Dragon M48A3 has been really well received, being one of the most accurate kits of this famous tank. That said, where Eduard are concerned there is always room for improvement and this set has been released to accomplish just that. The single sheet contained in the now infamous plastic packets is full of fine detail parts, some of which you really need an Opti Visor to see. Apart from the host of new brackets, and handles, this set provides a load of new detail for the prominent searchlight above the gun mantle. These include a new liner, hinges, access plates, grilles and vents. A completely new external telephone/radio box is fitted to the rear of the model in addition to its support tray and bracket. The track guard supports are provided with new end caps, and they are new clamps for the various pioneer tools and equipment. The headlamp clusters are fitted with new supports, plus there are new hinges and clasps for the storage boxes. Finally the rear bustle storage rack is given anew perforated base and back plate complete with perforated dividers and extra storage hangers. Some of the kits details will need to be removed before the fitting of PE parts, but fortunately there aren’t that many. Conclusion As mentioned earlier the Dragon M48A3 is apparently the best kit of its type currently available. Whilst this set is not as large as some that Eduard have released it provides enough parts to really lift the kit to another level. There are plenty of fiddly parts so you will need a steady hand and a good pair of tweezers to ensure the carpet monster doesn’t get its fill. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Magach 6B Gal Batash, for Academy 1:35 Eduard Next in the Eduard release fest detail set for the superb Academy 6B Gal Batash. The single sheet of relief etched brass contains numerous parts to super detail the hull. As with previous Eduard sets, some of the kit details will need to be removed before the etched parts are added, although in this set there seems to be more removed than most other sets. The removed items include brackets, tie downs, storage box hinge plates and handles, front mudguards, driver vision ports, and rear brackets for the headlights. The main parts that need folding are the Jerry can storage holder, machine gun ammunition box, ammunition box storage racks, mudguards, brackets, storage straps, and the new vision ports so although there are lots of small parts this is in fact one of the easier sets to use. The bustle storage cage receives a new mesh base, external brackets and grab rail around the top, whilst the machine gun has new sights and firing handle brackets for which the modeller will need to provide some shaped styrene rod for the handles. The main gun sight doors will also need some styrene rod to reproduce the hinge, the doors can then be posed either open or closed. Conclusion Another useful set for the modeller who really must super detail their Batash. The kit is already very nice out of the box, so this is really very much adding the gilding to an already well iced cake. But there are some nice additions that are missing from the kit so even if you don’t use the whole set you can add that little extra to the finished model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Israeli Achzarit, for Meng 1:35 Eduard Well it’s another month and Eduard have released another load of etched detail sets. This one is for the Meng Achzarit armoured personnel carrier. The single sheet of relief etched brass contains numerous parts to super detail the hull. As with most Eduard sets, some of the kit details will need to be removed before the etched parts are added. These include the front plate of the side skirts, all the brackets, locker handles, hand holds and tie downs on the upper hull, along with the mounting bracket for the fire extinguisher and fixtures around the main machine gun mounting. Whilst most of the parts require simple folding but there are a few parts that will need careful rolling to shape, particularly the curved mudguards on the rear underside of the track guards. The set also included the ID panels fitted around the vehicle; these require the modeller to run a ball point pen around the edges to give further relief detail. The machine guns receive new ammunition belts, ammunition boxes and their respective mounts; new rear sights are also included. The commander machine gun mount with the same parts, but also has the option of being fitted with a chain gun style feed belt from inside the vehicle, along with the various fittings and fixtures required. Conclusion The Meng Achzarit is already a beautifully detailed kit, but the moulded details can sometimes appear a bit clunky. With this set, these details are replaced with fine details that only etched brass can replicate. So if you want to go the whole hog and make a super detailed kit of the Achzarit then this set will suit you down to the ground. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Armour Detail Sets OrangeHobby 1:35 OrangeHobby are producing a fine selection of detail sets and their ever increasing range appears to have something for every 1:35 armour modeller. The five sets reviewed here are some of their newest and include aerials, machine gun barrels and even hydraulic actuators. [G35-118-36] The first set contains a replacement 20mm cannon barrel for the Meng AMX-30B2 and consists of a simple drop in replacement for the kit part. The main barrel is turned complete with the prominent recoil spring and really does look the part. Once the separate muzzle brake is attached, complete with the drilled holes, it will make a great addition to the kit. [G35-119-48] This set contains a selection of German aerials, four long and two short and come complete with four turned brass parts that represent the rubber mounts. There appears to be a slight amount of flash on the bottom of some of the aerials which will need to be nipped off before use. The mounts are simply glued into position on the particular aerial the attached to the model via a pre drilled 0.5mm hole. As with most metal aerials these are very sharp, and care should be taken when displaying the model as anyone getting too close a look could take their eye out. [G35-120-58] This set is very similar to the previous set, only it provides a set of aerials as used on modern Russian vehicles. There are four long and two short aerials contained in the poly bag along with the two part aerial mounts. The mounts are assembled, after which they just slip on to the base of the aerial and added to the model. Unlike the German set, these aerials are completely flash free and can be used straight out of the pack. The general warning about using these aerials is as per the above set. [G35-128-58] This set provides a replacement barrel and fittings for any kits version of the NSV 12.7mm heavy machine gun, both tripod mounted, and in the AA role as fitted to tanks like the T-72, T-64 and T-80. The kit parts will need to be modified to allow the fitting of the turned brass barrel and recuperator, plus the etched nickel straps, sights and clamps. If the modification is done correctly it will make a world of difference to the standard parts found in most kits. [G35-134-48] This final set is designed to replace the pistons and actuators in the Meng D9R “Doobi” armoured bulldozer. The clever part of this set is that the turned alluminium parts are then moulded into the resin fixture rings, making them direct replacements without the need to cut or modify the existing kit parts, although the resin sections do require a bit of a clean up. The two long turned alluminium parts are again direct replacement for the kit parts and slide into the kit fittings. Overall these parts will not only give extra strength to the completed model but the metal will not need to be painted, only weathered. Conclusion Although these sets provide a varied selection of parts, it does show that OH aren’t just trying not to copy what a lot of other companies are releasing. The quality of the parts is very high and what with the ease of use, they should be able to be used by all but the most novice of modellers. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Orange Hobby.com

105mm F1 Barrel for the Meng AMX-30B2 OrangeHobby 1:35 This next barrel from OrangeHobby is a much simpler affair when compared with the recently reviewed 125mm T-90 barrel. Simpler it may be, but it is still a very nice addition to the already fabulous Meng AMX-30B2 kit. The single piece turned alluminium barrel is finished off with a small piece of etched nickel which is rolled up and slotted into the muzzle to represent the rifling grooves that are quite prominent on the real thing. At the other end a very nicely moulded resin part, which once trimmed, represents the canvas bag that protects the barrel/turret opening. The sag that is often seen on the real tanks has been moulded into the part and looks pretty realistic. The completed barrel is then simply slotted into place. Conclusion This is another very nice piece of aftermarket from OrangeHobby and makes for a very easy, good looking part, which will go a long way to enhancing the look of the Meng kit. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of Orange Hobby.com

Kit: Tamiya 35190 Paint & Weathering: (Mostly) Tamiya Acrylic. MIG pastels, oil washes & filters. Decals: Kit. Extras: RB aluminium barrel, numerous extras from Tamiya, Italeri & Academy accessory sets. References: New Vanguard #3 ‘Sherman Medium Tank’ – S J. Zaloga. US Armour Camouflage & Markings WWII – Jim Mesko. D-Day to Berlin, Armour Camouflage & Markings of the US, British & German Armies, June 1944 to May 1945 – Terence Wise. Building & Detailing Realistic Sherman Tanks – James K. Wechsler. M4 Sherman (Early - Remanufactured) ‘H’ Company, 66th Armd. Regt. 2nd Armd. Division France, August 1944 - Really enjoyable, and for me lightning-fast, project. Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. As ever happy to take any and all questions, criticism and comments. AFN Ian

2A24M 125mm Barrel for Meng T-90 OrangeHobby 1:35 Whilst we have been fortunate enough to have seen and reviewed several maritime kits from OrangeHobby, this is our first opportunity to review one of their Red Series 1:35 armour upgrades. The barrel arrives in a poly sleeve with a card header, with the parts held in separate poly bags taped to a black card insert. Surprisingly there are quite a lot of parts that make up the complete barrel. Firstly you have the two turned alluminium and one turned brass part of the barrel, then you also have two small sheets of etched brass, one sheet of what looks like etched nickel, but could just be tinned brass. To complete the pack there are two resin parts and five small tie wraps. The instructions are very clear and easy to read, but since there are some quite complex folds and rolling of the parts, great care will need to be exercised. The tie wraps are only included to help fit the nickel parts around the barrel whilst the glue sets. Conclusion This is a super product and a must for those who'd love a super detailed barrel to replace the kits styrene parts. The construction is quite involved, but the results will look great on the completed model. Review sample courtesy of Orange Hobby.com

T-34 Cast Turret 1942-43 MSD 1:35 With the number of factories churning out T-34s by the hundreds there were naturally variations of design throughout production. This new update/conversion set provides a single cast turret as built by the Krasnoe Sormovo, or Factory No112. The attractive box, with a simple CAD drawing of the completed turret on the top, actually contains slightly more than just the turret. There are three sprues of quite hard light grey styrene the majority of which are for the turret, but there are quite a few parts not mentioned in the instruction sheet, which I presume can be used to modify the rest of whatever particular model you’re building, although, since there are no notes as to which model this set can be used on, the modeller will have to make the parts fit should they choose to use them. The main turret part is very nice, but it seems to be lacking the roughness that a cast part generally has. Apart from the upper turret, the kit also supplies a complete new mantle, new trunnions and mount, turret turntable, and new waist armour. Then there is a new hatch, grab handles, periscope bulge, lifting eyes, two piece barrel, plus the vision and pistol ports. Conclusion MSD are new to this reviewer and I’m not really sure about the provenance of this set. It’s nicely moulded, but not knowing which kit the turret is supposed to be replacing, I can’t really say whether it’s an improvement or not. Although it could certainly be used in a diorama setting fitted to a bunker, or one of the armed river corvettes used by the Russians. Review sample courtesy of

North Africa 1942

Hey folks.... Just to highlight my ignorance... (Deep Breath) - Can I build a BRITISH (105) Centurion from either the Aussie (35100) or early Israeli (35159) issues of the AFV Club Centurion or do I need to get (only) the specific kit (35122) ?? I appreciate that there were/are some differences in the engine deck etc, but if you don't ask, you'll never know, right ??. Thanks in advance. Ian.

M4 81mm Mortar Carrier This was in fact the first model I had ever put together. The model that started it all. I wasn't that good at putting decals on so that's why you don't really see any type of decals on there. And with one of the pictures there is a colour difference, and that's because some how the paint I was using just turned a lighter green. I suppose it was time to either shake it or get a new one, but that was some time ago.

German Motorcycle B.M.W Does anyone know of any type of weathering tips you could give me? All I really need is some fine detail done and it'll be finished.

Skoda 305mm Siege Howitzer Takom 1:35 History Development began in 1906, when a development contract was placed by the Austro-Hungarian high command with Skoda-Werke in Pilsen to develop a weapon capable of penetrating the concrete fortresses being built in Belgium and Italy. Development work continued until 1909, when the first prototype was finished and, in 1910, fired secretly in Hungary. The weapon was able to penetrate 2 m (6 ft 7 in) of reinforced concrete with its special armour piercing shell, which weighed 384 kg (847 lb). There were a few technical problems with the first piece, but, after few reconstructions in 1911, the upgraded piece made another round of testing in Felixdorf and in the mountains of Tyrol. After that, Moritz von Auffenberg, the Minister of War, placed an order for 24 of the new weapons. The mortar could fire two types of shell, a heavy armour-piercing shell with a delayed action fuse weighing 384 kg, and a lighter 287 kg shell fitted with an impact fuse. The light shell was capable of creating a crater 8 meters wide and 8 meters deep, as well as killing exposed infantry up to 400 m (440 yd) away. The mortar required a crew of 15 to 17, and could fire between 10 to 12 rounds an hour. After firing, it automatically returned to the horizontal loading position. In 1916, the M. 11 design was upgraded and the new M. 11/16 was produced - the difference was mainly that the firing platform had been modified to allow for a traverse of 360 degrees. Also in 1916, a new model was released, the M. 16, which had longer barrel (L/12) and longer range 12,300 metres (13,500 yd). Eight Mörsers were loaned to the German Army and they were first fired in action on the Western Front at the start of World War I. They were used in concert with the Krupp 42 cm howitzer ("Big Bertha") to destroy the rings of Belgian fortresses around Liege (Battle of Liège), Namur (Fortified Position of Namur) and Antwerp (Forts Koningshooikt, Kessel and Broechem). While the weapon was used on the Eastern, Italian and Serbian fronts until the end of the war, it was only used on the Western front at the beginning of the war. In 1915, ten howitzers were used in support of the Austro-Hungarian-German invasion of Serbia under the German General August von Mackensen. By the end of the war, 79 of the weapons of all three types were in service. Only 24 were destroyed. Between the two world wars, large numbers of mortars were in service in Yugoslavia (4 M.11 and 6 M.16), Romania, Italy (23 M.11, 16 M.11/16 and 16 M.16), Czechoslovakia (17 M.16) and Hungary (3 M.11 and 2 M.16). There were only two in Austria; one in the Arsenal, Army Museum in Vienna, the second as a training weapon in Innsbruck. In 1939, Germany seized all 17 pieces from Czechoslovakia and repaired the howitzer from the Arsenal Museum, designating them 30.5 cm Mörser (t). In 1941, they obtained five more weapons after the defeat of Yugoslavia and placed them into service as the 30.5 cm Mörser 638(j). They saw service against Poland, France and the Soviet Union in World War II, where they served with Heavy Artillery Battalions (schwere Artillerie-Abteilungen) 624, 641 and 815 as well as two Heavy Static Artillery Batteries (schwere Artillerie-Batterie bodenstandig) 230 and 779. The barrel was either monobloc or built-up. Some sources indicate that a third type - with loose liner - also existed. To soften recoil, a large slotted muzzle brake was fitted. The breechblock was of interrupted screw type, with forced extraction of cartridge during opening. A safety lock prevented opening of the breechblock before the shot; if there was a need to remove a shell, the lock had to be disabled. To assist loading when the barrel was set to high elevation angle, the breach was equipped with cartridge holding mechanism. The gun was fired by pulling a trigger cord. The Model This kit depicts a Skoda 30.5cm M.1916 as it was used in the siege of Sevastapol in 1942, but since information is sketchy I wouldnt have thought there would have been many changes since they were built in 1916. Contained in the top opening box, with a stylised photograph of the weapon being inspected on the front, are three sprues of sandy coloured styrene. The parts contained on the sprues are free of flash, moulding pips or other imperfections, and the moulded detail appears to be very good indeed. What ejection pin marks there are seem to be kept to be on inside of parts so there isnt much in the way of cleaning up once off the sprues. Takom have used slide mould technology very effectively in the production of the barrel parts allowing for a seamless build. Although there was a carriage designed for the guns, as seen on many of the museum exhibits, this unit is built as one with a fixed base, included in the kit. The build begins with the assembly of the breech block and the rear barrel block, which are then fitted to the trunnion block. The three parts to the barrel slide into each other like a telescope, with the completed unit slide into the trunnion block. The sliding breech is fitted with the release handle and pull handle before being slid into the breech block. The recupertor unit is assembled from upper and lower parts to which the front and rear parts are added, along with what looks like a valve at the front, the completed assembly is then fitted to the underside of the barrel assembly. The two ratchet arcs are also attached to the underside of the barrel and fitted with a spreader bar in between the two parts. The base is made up of a box with individual sides and the top, onto which the traversing ring is fitted. The right hand trunnion mount is fitted with an elevation axle mount, with associated support bracket and an additional strengthening beam. The mount is then attached to the traversing table. Before the left side is fitted the elevation wheel is attached to its support, whilst the hydraulic section of the elevation mechanism is assembled from five parts and the mechanical elevation guide is assembled from four parts. The two elevation ratchet wheels now assembled from two wheels and an axle. The ratchet wheels are then fitted with poly caps to allow the modeller to elevate the gun to their desired position. Each of these assemblies are then fitted to the trunnion mount, which is then fitted to the traversing mount with the elevation wheels and barrel assembly sandwiched between the two trunnions. Protective plates are fitted with ancillary parts before being attached to the front and rear of the trunnion plates. Lastly, the loading chute is assembled from seven parts and fitted to the rear of the gun mount completing the main part of the build. In addition to the gun and its mounting Takom have also included three shells, two long, (AP shells), and a shorter one which I presume is an HE shell, each assembled from two halves. One of the AP shells is fitted with a collar which is used to attach it to the shell handling trolley, also included and made up of eight parts. There is also a shell box to which a separate lid is affixed, allowing one of the three shells to be visible. All very useful if the model is to be built into a diorama. Conclusion This is a very unusual and quite obscure subject, yet still very welcome.I do have a fascination large calibre weapons, but have only seen ones the Germans designed in WW2, so its nice to have the chance to build something a little different and with the option of setting it into either a WW1 or WW2 scene. It would have been even nicer had Takom included a crew for it, so hopefully they will release a set in the future. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of

SdKfz 164 Nashorn for Tamiya 1:35 Eduard There were a lot of delighted AFV modellers when the Tamiya 1:35 Nashorn was released, and a bit of a surprise. Naturally the kit is a lovely piece of Tamiya engineering with loads of detail already included. Yet there are always areas that could be improved particularly when trying to achieve a scale thickness which injection moulding just cannot match. To this end, Eduard have released two sets of etched brass which should give the kit a bit more pizzazz, and give it a more scale look. As is normal for these types of enhancement sets some of the kit detail will need to be removed before adding the etched parts and the modeller will also have to supply their own styrene or brass rod to complete some of the assemblies. [36266 Detail Set] This medium sized sheet is crammed full of etched parts, and looks like Eduard made the most of the available space without having to produce a second sheet. Along with the standard replacement clamps, brackets and grab handles the set included new items for the track storage rack, hasps and clasps for the storage boxes, front mudguards, searchlight mount, and fire extinguisher mount. One part, which looks like it assembles into a ammunition fuse box even has textured surfaces to simulate the wood that these were constructed from. In the gun compartment there are new storage racks, document pouches, gas mask canister brackets, aerial mounts and other sundry brackets. There are also two new radios and their associated support frames, a new grille and surround for the engine exhausts and new brackets for the storage of the MG-34/42 machine gun and MP-40 sub-machine gun and a new latch mechanism for the rear doors. [36277 Floor Plates and Ammunition Boxes] As the title states, this set provides the modeller with two very detailed ready use ammunition lockers for the inside of the gun compartment. Each unit has doors that can be posed open or closed and come complete with all the internal racks suitable for the 88mm ammunition, which you will need to source separately. The floor plates are simple to fit as, once folded to shape, they are just glued into position around the gun compartment. Conclusion Even Tamiya kits can do with some extra detailing every now and then, and these sets provide enough to make the difference without going overboard. I particularly like the 88mm ammunition lockers which will look great in their open state, especially if combined with some brass shells. With care and patience they should be ok to be used by all but the pure novice but still be slightly challenging in areas. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of

M-ATV MRAP with CROWSII RWS Panda 1:35 History Originally one of five candidates down selected for the M-ATV (MRAP All Terrain Vehicle) program, the Oshkosh M-ATV was chosen on 30 June 2009 to be the sole winner of the contest. Oshkosh Corporation received an initial order for 2,244 vehicles in a contract worth US$1.06B. According to the United States Marine Corps program officer for MRAP, Brigadier General Michael Brogan, the Oshkosh M-ATV was chosen because it had the best survivability and Oshkosh had the best technical and manufacturing capabilities of all the competitors. The Oshkosh bid was also the second cheapest. The first vehicles arrived in Afghanistan in October 2009 and were to be delivered by March 2010. Additional contracts increased M-ATVs orders to 8,108 as of September 2010. Beginning in 2009, 8,700 M-ATV vehicles were purchased by the U.S. Army, U.S. Marine Corps, and U.S. Special Operations Command for use in Afghanistan. As part of the overall divestiture of the wartime MRAP fleet, the U.S. Government will keep about 5,600 M-ATVs, with some 250 vehicles for SOCOM. M-ATVs are being re-fitted at government depots upon their return from combat, with Oshkosh providing parts and technical expertise. The company is also working on a series of safety, survivability, and mobility upgrades for the vehicles, including suspension upgrades and a new communications suite for international customers that would allow them to integrate more and different radios onto the platforms. The M-ATV utilizes the MTVR chassis and TAK-4 suspension with the Plasan designed armoured hull developed for the Northrop Grumman/Oshkosh JLTV. The V-shaped Plasan armoured hull offers protection for the occupants from IED attacks while the centrally inflated run-flat tires allow the M-ATV to travel at least 30 miles at 30 mph even if two tires lose pressure. The vehicle can also take a 7.62 mm round to its engine oil/coolant/hydraulic system and continue to drive for at least one kilometre. The Stat-X engine fire suppression system provides for further survivability. The Tak-4 suspension is coil sprung and fully independent, and offers 16 inches of travel. The M-ATV's roof mounted turret is capable of mounting weapons such as an M240 machine gun, a Mk 19 grenade launcher, an M2 Browning machine gun, a MILAN anti-tank guided missile, or a BGM-71 TOW anti-tank guided missile launcher. The roof weapons can be operated either from the turret by person or remotely inside the cabin with a CROWS remote weapon system. The M-ATV also features modern vehicle safety systems such as Traction control and anti-lock brakes in addition to modern creature comforts such as an HVAC system and power outlets for charging portable electronic devices. Unique among MRAP vehicles are the M-ATV's rear-hinged, aka, suicide doors. At AUVSI 2013, Oshkosh announced it will integrate the TerraMax system onto the M-ATV to allow the vehicles to be converted into unmanned ground vehicles. The goal is to use the M-ATV as an unmanned platform for route clearance and counter-IED missions by engineers. The Model The kit comes in a very nice top opening box with what looks like a photograph of the real vehicle on the front. Inside there are ten sprues of sandy coloured styrene, separate roof and bonnet parts, five rubber/vinyl tyres, two sprues of clear styrene, three sheets of etched brass and two small decal sheets. All the parts are very well moulded with no sign of flash or other imperfections, but there are quite a few moulding pips. There are a lot of parts to this kit, some of which are very small and look particularly fiddly, but that’s what you get for having lots of detail, which this kit certainly has. The kit is in fact an update of the original M-ATV kit released by Panda in 2011 but with new parts which are mostly for the CROWS II Remote Weapon System, (RWS). Because of the high suspension and large gaps between the tyres and the wheel arches these types of kit really need to have the running gear, suspension and chassis well detailed and that is exactly what Panda have provided. The build beginning with the construction of the chassis cross-members with the front one also having the four piece winch attached within the three piece box structure, whilst the rear one is fitted with several smaller parts as well as the towing hook and tow guides. The intermediate transfer box is assembled from two parts whilst the part representing the underside of the engine sump and gearbox is moulded as a single shelf like item. The cross-members, transfer box, and engine section are then sandwiched between the two longitudinal chassis rails followed by the addition of further cross-members and suspension mounts, rear differential and the drive shaft between the diff and the transfer box. The complex suspension units are now assembled, each consisting of the main supporting structure, upper and lower wishbones, ball joints, two piece springs, which would be better replaced with real ones which are easily available, cross-shafts and links. Be aware that the front and rear pairs are slightly different so keep them separate before fitting to the chassis. To each suspension unit the brake drums are attached along with the associated brake cylinders. The thing that is most notably missing are the complex nest of piping seen on the real vehicles, but these can easily be made out of fuse or lead wire. Once all four suspension units are fitted to the chassis the main drive shaft is fitted between the rear transfer box and the front differential followed by the two underside cross braces that fit between each pair of suspension units. Now at this point the instructions call for the wheels to be assembled and fitted. But it’s probably best to leave the fitting part till after painting. Each wheel is made up of inner and outer hubs which are glued together before the vinyl tyres are fitted over the rims. [/ce Construction now moves onto the bodywork and the crew compartment in particular, with the assembly of the rear cabin bulkhead with its accessories such as the fire extinguisher, some pipework and brackets. The front bulkhead is then attached to the main cabin floor, followed by the instrument binnacle, onto which the instrument decals are positioned along with the etched stitches and knobs.. Between the front seats is a complex framework which looks like it should contain radio equipment or the like, whist between the rear seats is a similar structure, but a lot less complex. Each of the four seats is assembled from the underseat frame, backrest, squab and headrest. These are further detailed with a rear framework, arm-rests, and handles. The four seats are then glued into their respective positions along with the co-drivers LCD screen, which fits on the front console. The cabin is then attached to the chassis along with the rear bulkhead. To the rear the truck bed is fitted along with the two mudguards foreward of the rear wheels. Next, the four wheel arch liners are attached, each with several etched parts attached. Onto the rear wheel arches two three part storage boxes are glued into place. The large frame that is fitted to the rear of the vehicle is assembled and this included the rear mudguards, reflectors, and aerial base support. To the frame the various communication and anti-IED aerials are fitted before the whole assembly is attached to the chassis. The spare wheel mounting frame is then assembled and fitted to the rear of the truck bed fooled by the spare wheel itself. Each of the four doors are single piece items, to which the clear parts are added which represent the armoured glass by having them fitted to a deep frame. The door large internal door handles are then attached as are the wing mirrors fitted to the front doors. The forward IR sight is then built up form five parts and then fitted to the front of the single piece cabin, followed by the fitting of the doors. If you’d like to show the interior it’s best to pose the doors open, as there isn’t much of a view through the small windows. Once the smaller items such as roof mounted lights, several brackets, the font windscreens and windscreen wipers the whole cab assembly is fitted to the chassis. Whilst on the underside the three sections of the anti-mine, “V” armour is fitted to the centre section, between the wheels. Nearing the end of the actual vehicle build the bonnet is fitted out with the, headlights, sidelights and front wheel arches PE grille before being fitted to the model. There is another anti-IED device, which looks like a stiff flag is assembled and fitted to the front of the vehicle. The last assembly to be built is that of the CROWS II RWS, the hatch of which is fitted to the roof of the vehicle and can have the two doors posed open should the modeller wish. The CROWS II itself is a series of sub assemblies, such as the IR lights, sights, and comes with a choice of weapons and their respective mountings, one for an automatic 40mm grenade launcher and the other for a good old 50cal heavy machine gun. Both mountings are detailed with ammunition belts, and ammunition boxes. With the lights and sights fitted the whole assembly is attached over the roof mounted hatch. The last items to be fitted are the seven parts that make up another large aerial fitted to the co-drivers side wing. Decals The small decal sheets provide lots of placards, the computer screens, instruments, window surrounds, and ID numbers. The have been printed in house and look pretty good, with very little carrier film, but do feel quite thick. Conclusion The assortment of light and medium vehicles that have been born through experience both in Iraq and Afghanistan has been quite amazing and there are quite few now released in model form. I think this one will sit quite nicely with others in the genre. It looks to be quite a fiddly build and I’ve heard that the fit isn’t always perfect, but with a bit of work and some additional details such as the extensive pipework and some crew kit it will look very good indeed. It would also make a good basis as a centrepiece of a diorama. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops

German 37mm Flak 43 Zwilling Trumpeter 1:35 History The Flak 43 Zwilling was a development of the 3.7 cm Flak 43, which whilst as a single barrelled weapon was a dramatic improvement over older models. The new weapon introduced a gas-operated breech which increased the practical firing rate to 150 RPM, while at the same time dropping in weight to 1,250 kg (2,760 lb) in combat, and 2,000 kg (4,400 lb) in transport. Instead of having a single barrel the Zwilling, as the name suggests, was designed to mount two barrels. While this was thought to enable double the fire power from a single mount it proved to be unwieldy and heavy. This resulted in the increased production of the single mounts which proved pretty successful, particularly when mounted on Sd.Kfz 7s, and Panzer IV chassis producing the Mobelwagen and Ostwind. The Model The kit comes in Trumpeters standard top opening, and quite attractive box, with an artistic representation of the gun in action against some rather low flying B-17s. Inside there are seven sprues of light grey coloured styrene, plus a small sheet of etched brass. The mouldings are very well produced, with no sign of flash and only a few moulding pips. Surface detail is good although the bolt heads on the splinter shield are perhaps a little small. The build begins with the splinter shield, which is fitted out with the sighting hatch on the right hand side which can be posed either open or closed. On the inside there are four further shield panels fitted along with their support braces. The two guns are made up in the same way with the lower gun section in three parts, which once joined together, fitted with two recoil springs and the top breech section. The elevation shield is fitted to the mounting arms which are attached to each side of the breech; these differ in size depending on whether it’s fitted to the upper or lower weapon. The ammunition tray is then attached to the port side of the breech. The crew control sub assemblies are made up and these include the elevation and traversing wheels, plus the crew seats and their mounts. The elevation mountings on either side of the guns are in two halves, which, when joined together are fitted out with the rotating parts, the control sub assemblies, seats, control rods and sighting units. The right hand side is also fitted with foot pedals, and support brackets. The completed guns are then fitted to either the upper or lower elevation rotational parts and sandwiched between the two structures. The footplate is fitted with a turntable part underneath, whilst on top there are two ammunition boxes, another crew seat and grab handles. Onto this the gun mount is then attached, followed by the splinter shield, spent case tray and the etched brass netting that surrounds it. Finally the whole mount is fitted to the trailer bed, which is assembled from upper and lower halves, associated travel locks and three footpads. The kit also comes with several clips of 37mm ammunition which will help in the making of a nice diorama. Conclusion This is a fairly simple kit, but it does have a lot of character, the etched netting is a nice feature. Although not as widely used as the single barreled weapons it would make an interesting subject when combined with a suitable crew. For a what if, you could mount it on a truck, halftrack or even a flatbed railway wagon, as I’m sure the Germans would have done so at some point even if there are few photos available. The kit would also make a nice quick mojo build as it could be built in a day or two, then have fun painting and weathering. The only downside is the lack of crew which would have been nice to have included. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

European Tram 1:35 MiniArt There is very little to be found on the history of these trams, with only the odd photograph of similar vehicles and unfortunately MiniArt haven’t provided any background for the model. That said, from the little information that is available, shows that these trams or trams like them were first built in the 1920’s and were used all over Europe until the 1950’s. None of the available photographs show this particular type, but there are many similar, with variations in window style. This makes for a host of diorama opportunities, whether it’s in France, Germany, Austria throughout WWII or even up to Hungary 1956. What I have noticed is that the front/rear headlights on the kit are too high when compared to all the styles of tram that are viewable, and should be more centrally fitted on the front/rear face of the drivers’ cabin. Just wish anyone good luck on trying to find references though. The kit comes in quite a deep top opening cardboard box, which, on opening is jammed to the gunwales with styrene. The base, in the usual vacform style used by the company, is of square paving stones with a pair of tracks set into the surface adjacent to the footpath. The kit only provides two cable poles for the pantograph wire to be hung from and may need a selection of other street hardware found in most of their other dioramas to add a little extra interest to the diorama. The tram itself is contained on nineteen sprues of darkish grey styrene and six sprues of clear. The moulding is good on all the parts, with no sign of flash and only a few moulding pips. Detail is very nicely done, but it does look like MiniArt have made the kit overly complicated, particularly with the amount of parts and detail on the running gear that will be nigh on impossible to see. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as it will give you plenty of modelling time/pound, but it may put off less experienced modellers who may have like a tram in their collection. The tram is a game of two halves, basically made up of two mirrored sections. Each section consists of the floor, suspension leaf springs, support beams, and ancillary items such as the steps, bumper beams, hydraulic and electrical lines. With each floor half built up they are then joined together with longitudinal supports. The central bench seat assemblies are then constructed, along with the central side panels and the separate halves for each of the fixed internal bulkhead panels, plus the opening section. These are then attached to their respective positions on the floor assembly the fixed and opening parts of the internal doors are fitted to the bulkheads and glued into position. The folding entrance doors are constructed at this point and one half of each fitted into each of the four entrance points. Each of the drivers stations are assembled and include details such as the wood panels, which are very nicely done, the electrical contactor box, drivers speed control, control handle, and brake handle. When assembled, these are fitted to each end of the tram floor, after which the cabins can be constructed out of the main front/rear panel and two side panels, each with their respective clear parts added. Smaller details such as the front/rear lamp glass, grab handles, folding door hinge points are also attached before the assemblies are fitted to the tram. The opposite halves of the folding entrance doors are then fitted into position along with the drivers’ cabin bulkheads with their associated windows and protective bars/hand rails attached. The outside sections of the roof are then attached, followed by the additional central roof supports. The four upper window rails are constructed and attached each of the centre roof sections. Internal details, such as the pair of triple bulb light fittings and hanging hand holds are fitted, before the roof sections are attached to the rest of the tram, effectively finishing the car section of the tram. The running gear consists of a single four wheel bogie situated in the middle of the tram. Each axle appears to have its individual motor attached and this is built around the axle from three parts, to which a two part brake system is added to one end. The bearing housings for the axles are made up of three parts to which two wing nuts and a lubrication nipple are added. Each of the two longitudinal beams are dressed with numerous small details, followed by the fitted of the four leaf springs, bearing housings, supports and brackets. The wheels are then fitted to the axles, which are then slotted into one of the main beams along with four cross-members, before the opposite beam is attached closing off the assembly. With the bogie upright, the fore and aft end plates are fitted, as are two angled beams in the centre section. These are followed by a pair of control rods and their associated connecting links. Before fitting the bogie to the tram body the protective screen needs to be attached, consisting of four parts it literally surrounds the bogie. Before turning the model over the protective wood slatted screens are fitted to the underside of the tram body. With the bogie now fitted to the tram construction returns to the roof. Three access panels are assembled and with the access foot boards, fitted to the roof, followed by the pantograph support structure. The pantograph itself is assembled from three parts and attached to the structure with two, two piece hinge parts. The central spring which keeps the pantograph in the correct position needs to be cut back as it’s been moulded to show the pantograph in the storage position. When fitted with the four end plates and connecting parts it can be attached between the roof structure and the pantograph bottom bar. The final parts to be added are the roof grab handles, entrance door handles, entrance door stops plus the front and rear route plates. The base can now be suitably painted up and weathered. After which the electrical wire support poles are assembles and attached to the base. The wires which span the spreaders and the main electrical will need to be supplied by the modeller. Decals The small decal sheet provides the modeller with only one option of Tram number 321 on route 7 which is painted in a dark red over white with a grey roof. Running gear is generally black, but with much wear and tear this will be a great area to go to town with the weathering. Conclusion MiniArt are bringing out some really nice kits lately and this is no exception. An unusual subject to say the least, but it does give the modeller some great options for dioramas, whether on its own, or in company with other vehicles and figures. I would like to have seen some appropriate figures included, and hope that some will soon be released. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Russian T-80B E35-212 and T-80BV E35-213 ET Models 1:35 The number of Russian MBT’s released or due to be released by Trumpeter is quite amazing. To cater for those modellers who just love to add extra detail, ET Models seems to be keeping up with the relentless release schedule with these two sets for the T-80B and T-80BV kits. Contained in the now standard poly sleeve with card header, and with the instructions on the green A4 sheets, the two sets share all but one sheet of etch, along with the resin replacements for the smoke dischargers. As with many of ET sets the modeller is required to remove some of the kits details before using the etched parts. But with these kits there are very few bits that need removal, as it’s mostly adding detail rather taking any away. The build begins with the assembly of the numerous straps and buckles for use around the hull and turret. The support brackets for the snorkel are completely replaced with etched parts along with the restraining straps as are the similar items for the external fuel drums. The infra red lamp to the right of the main gun barrel is fitted with a new lens cover, hinged bracket and support mounts. The turret storage bins and spare ammunition case are completely replaced with super detailed etched items. There are loads of new parts for the barrel of the main gun, such as the retaining rings and strengthening bars that run along the top. Each ring is quite a complex assembly and includes the catches at each end of the ring, each of which has be carefully folded. With the main barrel done, it’s on to the machine gun, which is fitted with new sights front and rear, plus new searchlight details. The most complex part is that of the rear mounted exhaust, which consists of a series of horizontal and vertical louvers which have to be interleaved to form the completed part. The rest of the set is comprised of smaller details, such as the headlamp guards, intake grilles, hinges for the side skirts, clamps and brackets for the headlamps, catches for the towing cleats, grab handles for the turret and engine deck, the multipart aerial mount, onto which the resin aerial base is attached, whilst the resin smoke launchers are fitted in place of the kit items. The T-80BV set also includes the defensive reactive armour boxes, of which there are around 39 consisting of two types. These are either mounted direct, as per the turret roof, or to various types of framework, depending on their positioning. There is also a rather unusual item, which looks like a windscreen for in front of the drivers position, complete with acetate sheet to represent the glass. This item is shown in the build, but not where it’s fitted, so you will need to do some research. T-80B T-80BV Conclusion These two sets are up to the usual standard we’ve come to expect from ET Models. But my goodness they are going to be fiddly in some areas. The usual advice is to take care and take a large slug of patience when folding and bending the parts into shape. At the end though you will have one, or in this case two, very highly detailed T-80 tanks in your collection. Highly recommended Review Sample courtesy of

Russian JS-4 Heavy Tank Detail Set – E35-216 ET Models 1:35 The Trumpeter JS=4 kit, reviewed HERE has only just been released, and there is already a detail set out for it. The kit is already pretty well detailed, but having said that there are some modellers for whom there is always room for improvement. The set is packed in the usual thick poly bag with a stapled cardboard header card. The three main etched sheets are taped to two sheets of black card, in one small zip lock bag there are another two smaller sheets. The instructions are printed on the usual green paper, in this case, on two sheets of double sided A4. As with many of ET sets the modeller is required to remove some of the kits details before using the etched parts. They will also need to supply some styrene rod for use as handles, hinge pins and other parts. With this kit there isn’t that much to remove with only the fronts of the track guards cut away. There are a fair few small catches and brackets that need assembling first, before the bigger stuff is constructed. This set provides a couple of replacement storage bins, each with separate handles, hinges and catches. The storage lockers that aren’t replaced are given extra details, such as the hinges, catches and handles. The external fuel tanks are also completely replaced including the support brackets, straps, locks and catches. The tanks themselves will require some careful rolling into shape and will probably best to be soldered to prevent them coming apart. The end caps are then fitted and the assemblies attached to the mounting cradles. There are four of the large tanks that fit on the rear of the track guards, and two of the smaller tanks that are mounted on the rear of the tank between the tracks. The pioneer tools receive new clamps and will require styrene rod to construct the shafts, although I’m not sure these are really required, it’s up to the modeller how far they go. The AA machine gun is given a good going over, with a complete replacement ammunition case, which is highly detailed, along with a length of ammunition belt, new handles, sights, fore and aft, spent case chute and cocking handle. The rest of the set provides additional detail to the upper hull and turret, including those front track guards that were removed earlier. These are really quire complex and will require the modeller to fashion a spring out of fine wire for that extra effect. The track guards also receive extra strengthening straps, whilst the turret receives extra storage straps, brackets and tool clamps. The engine deck has a complete set of engine grille mesh segments provided to replace the slightly thick items in the kit. Conclusion Whilst this is an excellent set I feel that unless you are a complete detail junkie it’s a little over extensive. The kit parts are more than adequate for the most part and this set is replacing them for replacements sake. Although even if the extra detail that isn’t included in the kit is used it will help lift the standard model to a higher level of detail that styrene alone cannot match, but it will take a careful and patient hand in achieving that detail. Recommended. Available from White Ensign Models in the UK Review Sample courtesy of

US Diamond T 968A Cargo Truck Mirror Models 1:35 History The Diamond T Model 968 Truck, Cargo, 4 ton, 6x6 (G509) was produced during World War II, beginning in 1941. Early production used civilian instruments and other parts. The designation was changed to Model 968A when military standard instruments and components were substituted. It was produced with both the closed metal cab and, by 1943, open soft-top military cab. The final version was 968B. Its military role was as an artillery prime mover and for general cargo transport. The Diamond-T 968 Truck, Cargo, 4 ton, 6x6 was powered by the 6 cylinder, 529 cu. in. Hercules RXC engine that developed 106 hp. mated to a five speed manual transmission and two speed transfer case. The truck weighed 18,450 pounds and could tow 25,000 pounds. The Model The kit comes in a glossy top opening box with a depiction of the truck in use on the top. On opening the box is jam packed with seven sprues of light grey styrene, a small sprue of clear styrene, a small photo etched brass sheet, a vacformed tilt and a length of rope. Whilst the mouldings are very nicely done with some great details, there is a feeling of a limited run kit to it. The sprue gates are quite large, even for the smallest of parts and the plastic appears quite hard. The instructions too are not what we’ve come to expect from modern manufacturers, being a little in-descript and sketch like. Although the sketches are clearly drawn the parts location isn’t always that clear. With the best part of five hundred parts in the kit, the majority seemingly concerned with the chassis and suspension, great care will be needed when building these sections up. The build begins with the construction of the eight wheels. All the wheels are injection moulded and come in two halves and because of the big sprue gates they will need quite a bit of cleaning up along with the resulting seam once joined together. The front wheels are provided with an inner brake drum and outer centre hub, whilst the rear wheels are joined together by a much larger brake drum with a fluted centre piece and a rear panel, plus an outer central screwed panel. The spares require a hole to be drilled to allow fitting into their respective positions. The points where the holes are required are clearly marked. Next is the engine build. This is very comprehensive and begins with the assembly of the block, which comes in two halves, to which the sump is attached, followed by the cylinder heads. The auxiliary drive unit is fitted to the front, whilst the clutch and gearbox are fitted to the rear. The numerous ancillary parts are then added, along with the intake and exhaust manifolds, air intake filter unit, distributer, auxiliary drive belt and cooling fan. If the modeller wishes, they can super detail the engine with the addition of wiring and piping, especially if the engine covers are to be posed open. Once the engine is complete it’s on to the radiator, radiator housing and grille consisting of seven parts. Then it’s on to the drive train, with the assembly of the front axle, which comes in four parts, the transfer box, and the wheel mounts, complete with ball joint for the steering. The steering rack is then attached followed by the CV joints. Now this is where the instructions go a bit awry, instead of build the rear axles, it moves off to the building of the winch, which is a very nicely detailed unit, which just requires some rope to wrap on it. We now move onto the chassis the two longitudinal rails are fitted with several crossbeams, the completed winch, plus the front and rear end pieces. With the chassis rails closed up the air bottle and towing hook assembly can be attached. The front suspension hangers are then attached in their respective positions, followed by the leaf springs and the front axle sub-assembly. The rear suspension hangers are now attached, and then it’s on with assembling the complex number of parts for the rear suspension. These include the axles, transfer boxes, dampeners and air units. Whilst great care will be required to assemble all these and fit them to the chassis straight and level, it will be well worth it as the detail is quite amazing. There is an intermediate transfer box between the front and rear drive units along with the drive shafts and universal joints, which all have to be aligned correctly. With the drive train and chassis nearly complete the engine mounts and engine is fitted along with the associated drive shafts to the intermediate gearbox. Moving on to the cabin the complex set of levers is assembled and fitted to the cabin floor, followed by the seat mounting frames seat squabs and rear cabin panel. The seat backs are then fitted, as is the rear panel window. The drivers’ compartment front bulkhead comes in a single piece moulding, to which the drivers pedals are fitted along with the instrument panel, coaming and steering wheel bracket. The two piece steering column is assembled and passed through the cabin floor and previously fitted bracket. The wheel can then be attached along with what looks like a column shift lever made out of 0.3mm wire provided by the modeller. The cabin roof is now fitted with the two windscreens, following the written instructions carefully. The roof is then attached to the front coaming first, before being attached to the front of the cabin floor and the rear cabin panel. You must then dry fit the cabin with the engine cover so that the gearstick spigot fits into the hole in the gearbox, whilst at the same time the steering rack gearbox fits into position above the front axle. The written instructions here are in fact very useful, but take your time to get the alignments right. Once the cabin is glued into position you can start fitting the engine panels, the front mudguards, mudguard supports, lights and light protectors, followed by the front bumper. The cabin doors are fitted with their clear windows, but before fitting to the cabin, they will need door handles and window winders made up of 0.3mm wire. The cabin is then completed with the fitting of the roof convoy light and the wing mirrors. At this point the wheels assembled at the beginning of the build can be attached to their respective axles. The two fuel tanks are then assembled along with their supporting bracket assembly under the cabin, followed by the two footsteps, one each side. The truck bed is assembled from the bed, which has seven angular strengtheners attached underneath, front and rear panels, inner side panels and outer cargo bars, which have headrests built into them. The rear mudguards are attached to the rear underside of the bed with a fuel can holder fitted to the left hand mudguard. The bench seats are then fitted to either side of the bed and the now completed assembly can be fitted to the chassis. Lastly the two spare wheels can be attached to front of the bed on the brackets provided. Normally this is where the build finishes, but with this kit the modeller is actually provided with a vacuform tilt, which when cut out and painted slides over the cargo bars and tied to the wire hooks which will need to be made up from 0.3mm wire. It’s nice to see this option as it is rarely available in recently released truck models. Decals The small decal sheet provides decals for two different registrations, along with various placards for around the truck. There are also various sizes of US star and a number of unit markings for which you will need to check your references. Conclusion It’s great to see this truck finally released as an injection moulded kit. Whilst it is certainly not for the beginner, with care, patience and a bit of skill the average modeller should be able to produce a great looking model. The number of parts is quite daunting, but this is only due to the impressive level of detail for the drive train and chassis which will actually be quite visible. The addition of the tilt is a nice touch; just wish other manufacturers included this. All in all an excellent kit, and one I can quite happily highly recommend. I can also recommend the Squadron Signal Walk Around book on this series of trucks, a very useful reference guide. Review sample courtesy of

Soviet JS-4 Heavy Tank Trumpeter 1:35 History There are 2 different tanks known as IS-4. One of these (Object 245) was an IS-2 rearmed with a long 100mm D-10T cannon. The other IS-4 was a new vehicle projected by LKZ in parallel with the IS-3 (Object 703) by the same design and development bureau. For this second IS-4 the IS-2 hull was lengthened, with an extra set of road wheels added and an improved engine. Both hull and turret armour were increased. Several alternative armaments were explored in paper studies but ultimately the IS-2's original 122mm gun was retained. An effort was also made to make use of technical data derived from study of the German wartime Panzer V Panther tank, which influenced the layout of the second IS-4's engine cooling system. The tank was approved for mass production from 1947 to 1949 but due to disappointing speed and mobility only 250 were built. Most of these were transferred to the Russian Far East. In 1949, production was cancelled and later these tanks were removed from service. The Model This large tank arrives in the standard sturdy top opening box with an artists rendition of the tank in service rolling along a battlefield. Inside, there are thirteen sprues of light grey styrene, separate upper and lower hull, plus separate upper and lower turret parts. There are also ten sprues of brown styrene for the individual track links, a small fret of etched brass, a length of brass wire, a metal barrel and a small sheet of decals. The moulded details are up to Trumpeters usual high standards when it comes to their armoured kits. Everything is very crisp, flash and imperfection free. There aren’t the huge numbers of parts as found in some of the latest kits, which can be rather daunting, but certainly enough to make a detailed model out of the box. Whilst the tracks come as individual links, their size makes the fairly easy to work with and shouldn’t cause too many problems for the average modeller. The build begins with the construction of the two idlers, two drive sprockets, road wheels, (14 off), and return rollers, (six off). The axle mounts and torsion bump stops are then fitted to the lower hull, followed by the torsion units themselves. Three return roller axles are fitted per side whilst the idler axles also have tensioning units fitted. Once the drive covers are fitted to the rear, the sprockets and other wheels can be attached. At this point in the instructions the tracks are attached, but they can be left off until later in the build should you so wish. There is a clear diagram showing how the tracks are built up and this should be followed carefully to get as realistic look as possible. With the lower hull pretty much complete it’s time to attach the single piece upper hull, followed by the drivers’ periscopes and cover, and there is an optional intake and grille that can be fitted depending on whether it’s a prototype or production machine, check your references first though. The large track guards are now attached and detailed with photo etched straps on the front mudguards. The side plates and mudflaps, fore and aft are now fitted followed by more detail parts, such as the pioneer tools, gun travel lock, towing hawsers and towing eyes. The unditching log is attached to the right hand side between the hawsers and there are two external fuel tanks attached to the rear hull. The engine deck has a number of brackets and other fittings added. The sub-assemblies for the two double external tanks are built up from the tank bodies, end caps, support brackets and handles, the completed items are then fitted to the rear of the tank on each track guard. Meanwhile the engine deck receives the photo etched grilles, with added PE surrounds which cover the intakes. Five storage boxes are now assembled and fitted in their respective positions around the upper hull and there is also what looks like an oil tank that is fitted on the right hand front track guard. The engine cooling fans are covered over with PE grilles and the exhaust s are fitted, one per side. It’s now time to work on the turret, with the fitting of the commanders hatch surround and an air vent surround next to it, to the upper turret section. Before fitting the lower turret section there are a number of periscopes, vent grilles and hatch handles to be fitted. The gun trunnion piece is sandwiched between the upper and lower turret parts and the commanders hatch, with added periscope is fitted, along with two PE grab rails. Five hand rails are fitted to each side of the turret and the mantle is attached to the trunnion. The metal barrel of the main gun is now attached, along with the co-axial machine gun barrel, AA machine gun scarf ring, periscope covers, vent covers and turret lifting hooks. The large 14.5mm AA machine gun is assembled form nine parts if you include the two parts for the ammunition box and when completed is fitted to the scarf ring mount. Lastly the two piece muzzle brake and trunnion cover are fitted completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet is for only one scheme for an overall green tank and comprises of the seemingly standard Russian shield, the tank number 279 x 2 for the example on the box top and a selection of other numbers should you wish to make your own up. Conclusion Trumpeter seems to be really digging around for Russian/Soviet vehicles at the moment as more and more are being released. I hadn’t known about this particular tank until I started researching it for this review. It certainly is a large and imposing vehicle and will look good when built. It’s not a very complicated build, with the exception of the tracks, so would be good start point for anyone wishing to take on a larger project. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

After a little break from modelling I was going to start a massive 1:24 Fw190, but I don't think I'd finish it before the end of this group build, so I thought I'd pull this one of the stash. Dragon 1:35 Tiger Late Production 6253 Beware, the mediocre artwork hides the monster kit - Yes, the box is full. There's a few sprues. And a load of brass bits, photo etch, a turned barrel and even a bucket to hang off rear. Should be fun!