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Starting my next project - Takom's Bergepanther Ausf.A. It's gonna be Demag's one as the box says. Out of the Daimler-Benz, Henschel and Demag built Bergepanther Ausf.A's Demag is the only one to go with the winch and shovel. To add to the base kit I have Voyager Model's PE, MasterClub metal tracks and T-Rex's 3D-printed idler wheel. The beginning is obiously very similar to the Takom's Panther Ausf.D I built few years ago. Cheers! Kristjan

No not this guy. After 16 years of on again, off again (mostly off again) work. I finally finished AFV Club's Stuart. The model is not overly complicated and builds into a nice little kit. There are no real problems to report, which were not of my own making (lost parts, rolled off the desktop and shattered, etc.). I painted this with Tamiya base coats and Vallejo for all of the details. Weathering is pretty simple - mostly a vandyke brown oil pinwash, and lots of drybrushing with acrylics. A bit of pencil led hear and there, and just a touch of raw sienna pigments on the lower half to accent the drybrushing where needed. Markings are for the 1st Spahi regiment of the Free French Army in 1944. I still don't quite have the hang for painting fabric, but I guess I'm getting better each time I try. But for the first time, I'm very pleased with the metallic effects on the guns A few pictures of the M3A3 with its M3A1 stablemate. The latter is from the Tamiya kit I finished around 2019 I think. I think I'll build my Academy Stuart next.

All of these CAD renders have been taken periodically over 2022, each vehicle has been modeled from separate parts items like the engines and gear boxes have been designed as single items, chassis frames, suspension, drive shafts, axles, door and other parts are separate parts (80 parts make up one of the vehicles) all designed for 3D printing. The parts and the vehicles were designed according to workshop manuals and individual component drawings, and a lot of help from owners of the real historic vehicle owners. Some are designed as conversions for the Italeri 109" Kits and before anyone asks Yes Mike @bootneck is aware of these and has helped me with the Series 3 Ambulance conversion. The next stage is to start test prints of the parts and once I'm happy with everything I am planning on making the files available for purchase buy others A full 17 CH 4 cylinder petrol engine Mike was happy when I sent him these images. Yes a full 3.5 Rover V8 engine Yes I have modeled the body door handles on the finished doors. The radio and vampire vehicles are void of any internal parts as I could not able to get anything on the equipment and considering it is still in service quite right too. The series 3 Ambulance body will be a conversion to the Italeri base Kit. I will post updates as I proceed with the test printing. Pete

Hello, everybody! Starting with a new model(s)... well actually started with these a while ago, but due to a slow progress haven't yet published it here. The kit is ICM ANZAC Ford Model T 3in1 kit, of which I'm building two. I have a Microdesign PE sets for both of them, a GasPatch Models beautifully made Lewis gun set and one figure from D-Day Miniature Studio for now. There is a small diorama setting with those two vehicles and a few more figures in my mind. Here are all the goodies I have at hand. The mudguards and the frame are molded into one piece and have quite a few KO marks underneath that will not be visible really, but I filled these anyway. One thing I wanted to try is to make the front axle movable at least on one of the vehicles to make the setting more lively. It required some on-the-edge surgery, but turned out to be not as hard as one might expect, As both of the kits have double details for the axle and the steering parts it made it a lot easier to do. Underneath I added brake linkages and rods. Again - won't be much visible, but an the other hand, why not. To date I'm a bit more than on a halfway there with the engine compartment, that included some added wiring and replaced piping. Here is the thing with the details dry-fitted. And with another one that is disassembled. Cheers! Kristjan

Panzer IV/70 (A) HobbyBoss 1:35 History After the Battle of Stalingrad, in September 1942 the Wehrmacht arms bureau, the Waffenamt, called for a new standard for assault weapons: 100 mm of armour to the front, 40–50 mm on the sides, wider tracks, ground clearance of 50 cm, top speed of 26 km/h and the lowest possible firing positions. The new Panzerjäger ("tank hunter") design would be armed with the same 7.5 cm gun as fitted to the Panther: the Pak 42 L/70. Initially a new chassis was planned, but that of the Panzer IV had to be used. Previous efforts to mount bigger guns on smaller chassis resulted in the Marder series as well as StuG IIIs. The Marder series were tall and had open crew compartments. The new design had a low silhouette and completely enclosed, casemate fighting compartment. The Jagdpanzer IV used Panzer IV chassis 7 (known as BW7), but the almost-vertical front hull plate was replaced by sloped armour plates. Internally, the layout was changed to accommodate the new superstructure, moving the fuel tanks and ammunition racks. Since the Jagdpanzer lacked a turret, the engine which originally powered the Panzer IV's turret could be eliminated. The new superstructure had 80 mm thick sloped armour, which gives a much greater armour protection than a vertical armour of 100 mm. To make the manufacturing process as simple as possible, the superstructure was made out of large, interlocking plates that were welded together. Armament consisted of a 7.5 cm main gun, originally intended to be the Pak 42 L/70, but due to shortages older guns were initially used, the 7.5 cm Pak 39 L/43 for pre-production, and the 7.5 cm Pak 39 L/48 for initial production variant. These were shorter and less powerful than the Pak 42. Installing the much heavier Pak 42 meant that the Jagdpanzer IV was nose heavy, especially with the heavy frontal armour. This made them less mobile and more difficult to operate in rough terrain, leading their crews to nickname them Guderian-Ente ("Guderian's duck"). To prevent the rubber rims of the road wheels being dislocated by the weight of the vehicle, some later versions had steel road wheels installed on the front. The final prototype of the Jagdpanzer IV was presented in December 1943 and production started in January 1944, with the Pak 39 L/48 armed variant staying in production until November. Production of the Pak 42 L/70 armed variants started in August and continued until March/April 1945. On 19-22 August 1943, after the Battle of Kursk, Hitler received reports that StuG IIIs performed better than Panzer IV within certain restraints of how they were deployed. It was thus intended to stop production of the Panzer IV itself at the end of 1944 to concentrate solely on production of the Jagdpanzer IV, but the Panzer IV was in production all the way until the end of the conflict along with Jagdpanzer IV. Panzer IV/70 (V) (Sd.Kfz.162/1) was one of two variants armed with the same Pak 42 L/70 gun. The (V) stands for the designer, Vomag. The most produced version, with 930–940 built in August 1944 - April 1945. Panzer IV/70 (A) (Sd.Kfz.162/1) the other Pak 42 L/70 armed Jagdpanzer IV the subject of this kit. In order to send Pak 42 L/70 armed vehicles to the front as soon as possible, in July 1944 Hitler ordered an interim solution to speed up Nibelungenwerke's transition from Panzer IV production to Panzer IV/70 production. "A" stands for Alkett, a manufacturer of the StuG III that was ordered to redesign the Jagdpanzer IV superstructure to be mounted onto a standard Panzer IV chassis. The Vomag design used a modified chassis permitting a very low silhouette, mounting the superstructure onto the original Panzer IV chassis required additional vertical steel plates mounted onto the chassis to counter height differences. The resulting vehicle was about 40 cm taller and lacked the sharp edged nose of the Vomag variant. Only 278 were built by Nibelungenwerke from August 1944 to March 1945. Minor modifications and improvements were made throughout the production runs of all variants, as well as several field improvements, the most common being the addition of armour side skirts. Originally the Jagdpanzer IV's gun had a muzzle brake installed, but because the gun was so close to the ground, each time it was fired, huge dust clouds would rise up and betray the vehicle's position, leading many crews to remove the muzzle brake in the field. Later variants dispensed with the muzzle brake. Early vehicles had zimmerit applied to the hull to protect against magnetic mines, but this was discontinued after about September 1944. Later vehicles had three return rollers rather than the original four, and adopted the twin vertical exhausts typical of the late Panzer IV series. Some late vehicles also had all-steel road wheels on the first couple of bogies on each side. The Model This is the third ex-Tristar kit to be reviewed on BM and it follows the same pattern as those of the Panzer IV Tauch, reviewed HERE and the Panzer 38(T), HERE in that the box art is the same as the Tristar packaging with the colour artists impression surrounded by a yellow boarder. As with the other kits, all the parts are beautifully moulded, with the sprues and separate lower hull and turret in a sandy yellow styrene. There are fifteen sprues in the yellow styrene, one of clear styrene, one in an odd rubbery material which is apparently similar to Dragons DS, in that it can be glued using standard adhesives. There are also three sprues of dark grey styrene for the track links, three sheets of etched brass, and a smallish decal sheets. There is no sign of flash anywhere, but there are quite a few moulding pips that will need to be cleaned up. Looking at the parts count and layout, it doesn’t appear to be a complicated build, with perhaps the exception of the individual track links which I know some modellers still don’t like. Construction begins with the assembly of the road wheels, of two distinct types. Each of rear sets are made up in pairs and consist of inner and outer wheels, each with the rubber tyres and glued together with a poly style cap. The front sets are similarly built, but with styrene tyres representing the steel used on the front pairs of wheels. The leaf spring suspension for each set of wheels is made up from three parts, whilst the mounting unit on which the axles are attached are each made from four parts. The front two suspension sets on each side are then fitted with the “steel” rimmed wheels and the two rear sets, per side, are fitted with the rubber rimmed wheels. The sprockets are made up from inner and outer hubs and fitted to the gearbox cover via a shaft piece that is slid through the rear of the cover. The idlers are also made from inner and outer hubs and fitted with a separate axle part. The lower hull is then fitted with the rear bulkhead, which in turn is detailed with the two, three piece exhausts, two, three piece idler wheel mounts, a horizontal plate, two piece telephone stowage box, and the four piece towing hitch. At the front end of the lower hull the two sections of lower glacis plates are fitted, along with two angled side plates. On the underside, two lengths of what look like suspension parts are glued into position, whilst on the sides the five, three piece bump stops and four, three piece return rollers are attached. The engine bulkhead is fitted inside the lower hull, whilst at the front the two, four piece towing eyes are attached. All the wheel assemblies are now fitted to their respective positions and the six piece front upper glacis plate, plus the two five piece track guards are glued into position. The engine decking is built up from separate plates, to form a box structure, into which the intake guides are fitted and the whole section covered over with the two hatches and their grilles. The deck is further detailed with the fitting of some pioneer tools, grab handles, hinges and a two piece box. The rear mudguards are then attached, along with the rear light clusters and reflectors, with more pioneer tools and fire extinguisher being fitted to the engine decking, which has been glued to the rear of the hull. The rear of the gun and the breech block are really well detailed with nineteen parts for the rear section of the gun and another ten parts of the breech block which is glued to the rear gun section. The protective guard is then fitted, (another three parts), followed by the four part gun sight. The fighting compartment roof is fitted to its supporting frame, and then detailed on the outside with two curved rails, lifting hooks, grab handles, sight protectors and an air vent, followed by the two multi part hatches. On the inside the hatch hinges are fitted, as well as the periscopes and five piece angled sight. The hatches fitted earlier can be posed open just by rearranging the fitting of the hinges. The rear fighting compartment plate is also fitted with detail on the inside with the spent shell port, a pair of spanners and quite a few unidentifiable PE parts, whilst on the inside of the frontal armour plate there is a three piece ball assembly for a machine gun, which is covered up on the outside by are large armoured box, as well as the drives armoured viewing port. The front, rear, sides and roof of the fighting compartment are then glued together and fitted with the gun assembly from the inside, with the single piece barrel, with its armoured mounting and saukopf fitted from the outside. The completed compartment is then glued to the hull. The track assemblies are now constructed from the individual links, with the instructions showing that you will need ninety eight links per side and fitted. A length of about ten links is also assembled and glued to the upper glacis plate. At this point there are many small parts attached to the hull and fenders, including the lights, two pairs of spare wheels, two gun cradle hinges, various PE brackets and eyelets, along with the six Schürzen plate hangers per side. These are made up from two PE parts, bent to shape, and a single styrene part. The Schürzen plates are single pieces of what look like nickel plated brass and really look the part. The plates are attached to the mounting brackets by PE hangers, bent to shape and a styrene rod. The final part to be fitted is the gun cradle, which can be posed stowed or in use. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for three vehicles, they are well printed, in register and nicely opaque. They are quite glossy and there is a fair amount of carrier film between the main numbers, but it feels quite thin so shouldn’t cause to much of a problem when applied over a gloss coat. The three vehicles are:- Panzer IV/70 of the Fuhrer Begleit Brigade, during the Ardennes Offensive, 1944 in overall dark yellow with dark green and red brown splotches. Panzer IV/70 of the 23rd Panzer Division used in Hejmakser, Hungary, 1945, also dark yellow overall but with a different style of dark green and red brown splotches. Panzer IV/70 operated by the Red Army in Vienna, Austria, 1945. Camouflage is either dark yellow overall or dark green overall. Conclusion This is a great looking kit, well detailed and not too difficult to build, although there are some very small parts, particularly PE. The Schürzen plates and their hangers are very realistic and will look great on the completed model. I’m glad that these Tristar kits haven’t been lost as they are very nice and this particular kit is should bring enjoyment to all modelling skill levels, with perhaps the exception of a total novice to PE. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

For my first ever GB I went big, Aussie M3 Lee with full interior. Last time I've attempted to do full interior kit was 20+ years ago with Tiger I from Academy, sadly got distracted and the only thing I was able to finish was the turret. This time I plan to go all the way. I don't have any connections with lands down under except having a couple of good mates from my bmx years, both Kiwi born and bread, one near Wanaka and one in Wellington. Anyway, I digress. The part count is bigger than I expected and it looks like there will be quite a lot of work involved. Sprues look really good with quite sharp details and a few PE parts. My plan is to have all doors open, so that it will show as much interior as possible.

So here it is - British BL 7.2 inch howitzer. Not much reworks and aftermarket this time - just a little quickie out of the box. Build process can be seen here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235156187-british-bl-72-inch-howitzer/ And here are couple with Matilda as well to show how huge the thing really was: Cheers! Kristjan

Seems I got a bit sidetracked from the Bergepanther for a little while. The kit here is Thunder Model BL 7.2-inch Howitzer. It goes together very nice and is simple enough to build it in a reasonably short time - took me a week or so. Since there's no aftermarket for this kit anyways, I decided to go pretty much building it out of the box and didn't bother myself to correct all the inaccuracies the kit has. If you observe the box art, even there are many details wrong - most prominent of these are correct with the kit itself though. Most of the PE you see, came out of the kit and I only added a few details here and there. The kit builds into a pretty impressive size of an artillery piece with the oversized wheels being the most prominent part of it. The length of it is the same as the Bergepanther with a spade. The howitzer came with couple of huge ramps which were there to at least somewhat deal with the violent recoil the gun had. I have read that these weren't always enough and in some cases the gun jumped over these when fired. The ramps are present in the kit as well but are poorly executed so I took a bit more liberty there to make these half way decent. To prevent the most obvious question with the subject, then no - there's no Scammell tractor to go with it. Maybe some day, but for now it will be just the gun. Cheers! Kristjan

Didn't feel like painting today, so decided to start a new project. This time I chose Cromwell MK. IV. It will be done out of the box with a side order of 3D printed tracks and it will have marks of 1st Polish Armoured Division. Here is the progress that I have made so far. Next stage will be to prime and paint the lower hull.

My third project since picking up the hobby again. This time I went for an all time classic, Cromwell MK. IV and used 1st Polish Armoured Division markings. Although the kit is quite old it still goes together without any major issues. It is not 100% accurate, as a few BM members have pointed out, but never the less it goes pretty nicely together. Just what you expect from Tamiya. All except the 3D printed tracks (QuickTracks) is out of the box. Painted and weathered using Ammo products - One shot primer, Atom paints, Oilbrushers, Ammo acrylic washes, Ammo shaders, Ammo pigments & Ammo mud splashes. Here is the link to the WIP thread But most importantly, here are the money shots 😊

The 1830 Northumbria is the next test model to arrive in my workshop. 3D printed scale 1:35 and the publisher is ‘World from Cardboard’ and this is what it looks like and we will see what comes out of it. By the way, I would like to ask if there are any materials, drawings of this locomotive? Maybe there are also plans of the wagons it could pull? I have something but there are considerable discrepancies in it, or any railway forum worthy of recommendation? Suggestions and suggestions not just for the publisher welcome. Many thanks in advance.

I have always liked German half track tractors. I completed it on vacation in October 2023. Please enjoy. Completed in October 2023

A bit of an old mold but worth it, it was surprisingly hard to find one, but once I got one the price was so good I couldn't say no. Model was primed with Mr Hobby 1000 Black, then pre-shaded with Tamiya white and the main colour is NATO brown by AK real colors. There was a c All in all the build was more challenging compared the usual very easy Tamiya 1:35 (still very easy compared to other manufacturers). I am on my way to build as many modern AFVs as I can since I really like their real life counterparts and I am an avid War Thunder player (it's what actually got me into the model making hobby). I hope it's good enough, please let me know what you think and if you have any criticisms.

Hello folks. Not many Sextons around here, probably because the Dragon kit was AWOL for a few years. They came back recently with the "magic tracks" so I grabbed one and set to work. A number of issues became apparent. Firstly, a number of parts are provided in the kit but not referenced in the instructions, most notably the additional strengthening pieces placed around the inside face of the front armour shield that fill up 2 holes (but still require a lot of filling). The side armour plating retains the moulding dimple mentioned in other reviews of the kit. The build sequence is rather difficult to work with for painting purposes. I ended up leaving the front and sides off for as long as possible, slotting in parts rather than fixing them so they would be easier to move. The fit of the body to the hull tub is...variable, again something noted in other reviews. The kit is missing weld lines in various prominent locations, so I scribed in a panel line and am going to claim that any sloppiness near the front armour plate is representative of the welds I wanted to represent "Fee" because it has actual video footage at https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060013190. However, the markings for "Fee" are incorrect and so is its regiment, which should be 90th Field Regiment RA. I ignored the paint scheme for the most part and went from the video where possible, or other images of Sextons at similar periods. I hoped to get the Star Decal set which has almost the correct markings for a 1944 Fee, but had to cobble it together from a different marking set, 35-C1260. There are still some additions to make if I revisit this kit in the future: covered headlights, camo netting, tools hanging from the side handles, Brens in the carrying slots, ammo boxes, and a rather prominent square that almost looks like a tacsign, but those shouldn't be present on artillery to my knowledge. There are also a few scribbles of white that are probably from D-Day transportation markings. I painted the kit with AK 3rd gen acrylics for the base camo, with Vallejo gunmetal for tracks and then various MIG and AK enamel washes, and Lifecolor acrylics for dust effects.

Here we go again. This PzKpfw II was meant to be a quick project for a couple of weekends, but of course it turned out a little bit more time consuming. Partly because I've had quite a busy time at work and partly because the rubber tracks that were included in the kit were too short, so I had to go shopping. Kit itself is well known and I suspect that many of you who do AFV in 1/35 scale had built one at some point in your modelling career. Apart from the 3D printed tracks from QuickTracks the kit is out of the box build with no PE parts. This little Panzer II was painted using Ammo atom paints and for weathering I've used Ammo acrylic wash and Ammo oilbrushers. I've messed up a couple of decals, but overall I'm quite happy with the result. Enough talking, here are the pictures. I would welcome any feedback, be honest, but gentle 😜as this is only my second tank and probably only the third or fourth model that I have painted with an airbrush.

Well, I've been having a quite productive days recently. I did small touch ups on my T-34 and instead of watching the paint dry I've decided to start a new project. This time however I wanted something that can be built and painted fairly quickly, so I went for I think one of the oldest kits still available today (I'm pretty sure it is older than me), classic Panzer II from Tamiya. My plan is to build it out of the box and without figures. It will be another practice run, like T-34, before I will start getting to the big ones in my stash. Also I will use figures to practice figure painting at later date. I think it took me about 2-3 hours to build it and it was quite refreshing to have a kit that can be made in one afternoon. What's in the box? Four simple sprues, hull, rubber tracks, instructions and decals. Not many parts and that's the beauty of this kit. Now I know that this kit is an old one and it is Tamiya, so I've expected an easy job. Surprisingly there was a lot of pin marks, especially on the bottom of the fenders, which I had to fix using Vallejo plastic putty. And a lot of seam lines. No issues with fitment though. Once I've sanded down the pin marks and dry fitted all parts together it was time to prime it with Ammo One Shot primer in grey. Oh, I forgot to mention that after dry fitting I decided to check the rubber tracks and I'm glad that I did because they are tight. Not like @Harry_the_Spider Panther tight, more like two links too short tight. Quick solution was found... a new set of tracks for my Panzer II from QuickTracks 😁 Don't know when will they arrive, but I have enough work to do anyway. And that's where I'm now.

Finally managed to do an upload to my Flickr account, so here it is. My first "work in progress" post. Last September I have started work on this T-34/75 by Tamiya, in addition to the standard kit I have some PE parts from Eduard, metal barrel from Aber and workable tracks by Quick Tracks. I'll be honest my experience building tanks is non existent, so this was my way of getting into it. Last weekend I've finally managed to paint it and do some basic shading using an airbrush for the first time ever and here are the results before I painted details and covered everything in a couple of thin coats of semi gloss varnish. Tracks were primed with Vallejo black surface primer and then gave a couple of light coats of paint, then used acrylic track wash and rubbed some gun metal pigment using rubber brush. After that again a couple of light semi gloss coats to seal it and I must say I'm quite pleased with how they look. Wheels also received some pigment treatment Next step would be to put decals on, but then I'm a bit lost, so would like to know from more experienced here. What would be the best way forward? Is there an order in which I should do the weathering?

Hi all, Moment of truth for me, I've finally managed to finish project started back in September '24. Apart from a couple of jeeps this is the first time I've been using airbrush and my first tank ever. I've made a few mistakes here and there, so this is probably not the most exciting to the eye, but I hope some of you will like it. Thanks for watching.

Allright, new project. The kit, Border Models, scale 1:35, real sjort review. Its not great, its not bad, if in fpr Tamiya feel so forget it, also the manual shows several errors numper parts, minor detaling, no IP decals, or clear parts for the Revi gunsight, instead plastic non transparent parts. But fun to build som far. Allright, let the pictures talk, adding details, then primer. Exhaust pipes weathered Ignitions wires, make em pop out.

Hi, This is a 1:35 model of the Sherman M4A1, an American medium tank. This is Italeri KIT no. 0225. I made it as a traditionally movable model, of course. The additional parts are - the Friulmodel tracks, couple of small accessories like towing cables, jerry cans, helmets, bags, supply and ammo boxes. The model wasn't very detailed but I tried to add some details by myself. I hope you see it and like it. The clip shows how does it ride Models finished in 2021/2022 - "Sturmgeschutz III ausf G (1:35 vintage Tamiya)", "Matilda MK II (1:35 vintage Tamiya)" I invite you to see the rest of works on my site "about me"

Hi all. Been some time since I posted a proper scale armor build in this subforum, so here we go. First completed 1/35 AFV since end of 2023. This is Italeri's T-34 in the Korean War boxing. In the US, the kit is priced similarly to the RFM T-34, which is generally considered to be the best on the market. So what do you get in the box? This is a reduced version of Italeri's full-interior T-34 kits. That was fine with me, as I don't really get the appeal of AFV kits with full interiors. But if you're buying this because you want to build each of the stations, and an engine, you'll find yourself disappointed. You get some basic bulkheads and some turret/gun details, but that is about it. You get SOME of what you might expect on a post-war T-34. There are separate roof vent domes, you get smoke pot canisters for the back, angled front fenders, and from just eye-balling it - a "fuller" turret bottom. But Italeri only gives you the solid wheels. Too bad, since many, though certainly not all, North Korean and Chinese T-34s were fitted with the spider style wheels. Italeri would have also expanded the range of options by adding the handful of parts needed to build a Chinese modified T-34 (Type 89 I think they called it?) with the raised loader's hatch and DshK mount. In terms of detail, this kit is okay, but not great. There are no weld lines on the hull and the welds on the turret are very basic. The turret cast texture is a little pedestrian looking, and there is no texture on the hull parts. You get A PE engine grill mesh that looks nice, but the four vent grills further forward are molded solid, which looks okay, but is another missed opportunity. The finer details are fine, but few. There are PE straps for the track grousers on the hull sides, but I left these off my tank, as I don't know if I've ever seen them on in a historic photo. The tracks are link and length and look nice. Italeri also give you rubber tracks, if you prefer. There are a few marking options for North Korean tanks, which all feature large white turret numbers. There is also one Chinese PLA option, which I chose. The decals are FANTASTIC! Thin, stretchy, strong, and with great adherence. All in all, not a terrible model, but somewhat basic. I give it a solid C, mostly because it was very much overpriced. The kit is probably on par with the Academy T-34s in terms of quality and detail, but is priced like an RFM kit. I understand that a lot of the price is set by Steven's International setting the import price, so maybe it is a better bargain elsewhere in the world. I painted the model in standard Mr. Surfacer black base-coat and then applied lightened shades of some sort of greens. The base painting happened a while ago. So I don't remember. But I applied lighter colors at the top surfaces and at high points as if a single light source was over the tank. I paint my armor after they are fully assembled. The lower hull and tracks were painted with a black/brown mix, and then some green was misted onto the wheel faces. Tyres were semi-dry-brushed with a dark gray. Weathering was kept simple and included a dark brown enamel pin wash, and acrylic filters of vallejo dark sandy and earth brown colored paints suspended in matte medium. Some steel was drybrushed on the track. Now, how about some pictures?

Hi everyone, hope you are all having a restful Christmas. My son gave me the Airfix boxing of the Academy M36/M36B2 and before I make a start I have a few questions I hope someone can answer. I intend to build the M36 “Pork Chop”, which is indicated to be 2nd Cavalry, US 3rd Army, winter of 1944/45. The painting instructions show the .50 cal being moved to the front of the turret, although the position is a bit vague. My first question is, would the “original” baseplate on the bustle have been eliminated, or just left? Secondly, I have failed to find an image of “Pork Chop” online, which leaves me at a quandary as to which sprocket/wheel/idler combination to use. Strangely the kit also provides just two solid dish road wheels (although I also have plenty left over from my Asuka Sherman builds). Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

This is the test model of the 1830 ‘Northumrian’ locomotive in 1:35 scale made as a 3D printout and the publisher is the ‘World of Cardboard’ company. The construction went without any problems, the parts fit together and I can't but recommend the model and invite you to the gallery. I would like to thank the ‘Swiat z kartonu’ company for the model I received.

Hey, this one is done Here it is: Pz.Rgt. 35, 4th Pz.Div, 3rd Company. Operation "Barbarossa", 1941. Build log is here: Cheers! Kristjan

Starting with a new one - this time it is Panzer III by Dragon. The kit I'm using is artillery observer tank Panzerbeobachtungswagen III but I'll build it into a regular Panzer III Ausf.G, as all the bits are supposedly in there. The turret shell is the only exception, but it'll be not too hard to convert. I have Voyager PE set and fenders to add as well as Aber barrels for the main gun an for MG's and a set of MasterClub metal tracks. I like Dragon's Pz.III based kits for their accuracy and crisp details and this one is up to that too. It's going together really fast at this stage and no hardships to report thus far. Cheers! Kristjan