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  1. Hi Everyone, As my Shelby GT500 project is close to completion, I will be making a start on this kit in a couple of days time. As the kit includes decals for the Ecto-1 and Ecto-1A, I have decided that I will be building this kit as the Ecto-1A from Ghosbusters 2. Anyway here are the sprues. I have just noticed that the interior body section is missing from my photos. Thanks for looking, I will be posting the first WIP shots in a couple of days. Rick
  2. Hi Everyone, Here is my next project : Revell 1/25 Shelby GT500 Normally this kit is painted in Ferrari Red with Black decals, White with Blue decals or Brown/Steel mix with White decals. I am not doing any of these colour schemes. I am going with a Gloss Black body with the Blue decals from the kit. All of the chrome accent parts are going to be used. This is my dream car, so I am doing it as a custom build for me. Anyway here are the sprue shots. I have aready started painting the engine components so will be starting assembly of the engine components later and then its onto the chassis etc. Photos tomorrow. Thanks for looking, Rick
  3. Hi Everyone, I have been looking at the AMT 1:25 scale Ghostbusters Ecto 1A kit for a while now (since I saw several builds on here) and was wondering how many people amongst the members have built it and if it could be considered a challenge to build as it doesn't have many parts ? Thanks, Rick
  4. Revell Mercedes 1628s Truck 1:25 The Mercedes 1628s is a 22ton tractor unit manufactured between 1973 and 1988 and was a popular truck worldwide, the Revell kit is a day cab 2 axle tractor unit, with the Mercedes 280bhp V8 engine. The 1628 was available as a tractor or a rigid truck so there are lots of options to convert the base kit. The kit comes over 4 main sprues cast in a light grey. Being an older kit there is some flash on the parts but nothing that needs more than a quick pass with a knife and a sanding stick. The parts are well done, and have some very nice detail on them. Construction kicks off with the multi part chassis, the 2 rails are joined with a large casting that has 4 cross members cast in place, take care when removing this from the sprue, and cleaning this up as it will help keep your chassis straight and true. 3 more cross members are also added before you can add the springs and the 2 axles to your chassis. Extra parts like the anti-roll bars and shock absorbers are also glued into place. The front axle is a fixed part so the wheels can’t be displaced turned without some work but it does give a stronger part. The engine is made up from multiple parts and gives a well detailed engine block, of course you can add some wiring and pipes as the cab can be tilted to show it off. Looking at the instructions you should be able to build and paint the chassis and engine separately adding it late in the build. The wheels look like nice casting, copying the real parts nicely, whereas other kits have a generic wheel, looking at the parts there is a hole in the rear hubs that may need filling but I will see when I build this shortly. There are 6 nice rubber tyres with good sidewall and tread details, some of the nicest truck tyres I have seen. Once you have a rolling chassis you can move onto the cab, the interior is made from multiple parts and they are well detailed. Paining instructions are referenced back to the Revell paint codes with the colours being very 80’swith various browns over more modern greys. There are decals to give the checked effect on the seats and door cards. The truck is of course Left hand Drive but it would be a simple conversion to swap the parts over both in the cab and on the chassis. The cab shell come as a single part and captures the shapes of the cab very well, with the various pressings and panel lines being in scale. There is again a little flash but nothing that will cause a headache to even the most novice modeller. There is a clear sprue that includes most of the cab glazing, only missing the door windows but it wouldn’t take much to create these from some clear plastic sheet. Lenses are included for the lights and some clear red and orange will be needed, the lenses are detailed with engraved lined to separate the red and amber areas. Check you references for the exact layout as it could vary. There is a decal sheet that contains the seat and door card pattern I mentioned earlier in the build, also included are a set of Mercedes cab stripes as applied in the factory and some model badges for the exterior of the cab. Some decals are also included for the clocks on the dashboard and they look well detailed. A variety of registration plates are also included, the UK ones give a late 1980, early 1981 vehicle that would fit with the era (a Leicester registered truck) the decals are as expected from Revell, well printed with good fine decals. Conclusion A welcome re-issue of an older Revell kit. It will be a popular kit as a basis for conversions. Lets hope Revell re-issue some more versions of this (Race Truck PLEASE!!!!!!!!) A build review will follow shortly as I already have a build in mind! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  5. So here is the finished 1:25 scale model of the Centurion mk.III British main battle tank. It has been built out of the box with no extras, apart from the camouflage netting around the barrel which I made myself. The paints used were as follows: Primer was Vallejo grey polyurethane acrylic. This was also used for all of the interior surfaces. It gives a lovely smooth and resilient surface for the following paints. The main overall colour was Tamiya Dark Yellow Matt XF-60. This was mixed about 40% paint with 60% Tamiya X-20 thinner. Panel line preshading was done with Tamiya XF-1 Matt Black and overhead light simulation presahding was done with Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. Some weathering effects and shadow areas were done with Tamiya XF-49 Khaki. The matt finish was thinned Vallejo matt varnish. Chipping was hand painted with MrMetalColor MC24 Dark Iron. Exhaust and metal tool parts were also airbrushed with this paint as were the tracks and tow cables. Weathering and rusting was done with a combination of Rust and Sand pigments. Various Tamiya weathering master sets for were used for streaking, rusting and staining effects. Lighter colours from these sets were used for edge highlighting. Once the track pieces were buffed where the wheels ran and also where the locating lugs rubbed between the wheels, the pieces received a dunking in first rust, then sand pigments, with a good brush scrubbing between the two. The exhaust parts were treated in the same way. Although this was an old kit that I picked up from ebay for £30ukp, it went together reasonably well. There were plenty of moulding lines that needed scraping off before painting and the instructions had a couple of anomalies. The old decals were very yellow, so the markings for my choice of variant were spayed using a template that I cut out with a laser cutter, from a CAD drawing that I made. I learnt a lot from trying various weathering methods on this build and thoroughly enjoyed myself. As usual, and observations or comments are welcome. Enjoy the images.
  6. Dodge L-700 Tractor Unit with Chrome tanker or Box Van Trailer 1:25 Plastic kit from Lindberg Models The Dodge L700 is a medium duty truck manufactured by Dodge trucks in the USA using components from there A100 light duty trucks. The L-700 was available with either a Dodge, or Cummins V8 engine. The L-700 had a smaller sibling , the L-600, that was outwardly similar but designed to pull smaller weights, this had the option of straight 6 diesel of a V8 Gas engine. The Dodge L-700 was available as a tractor with a very short 89inch wheelbase, and a steering angle of 50o for great manoeuvrability in towns and cities, where this truck was designed to live and work. The L-700, and L-600 could also be specified with a longer rigid chassis up to 192inch wheelbase and the Dodge had various bodies, and pulled a variety of trailers. Lindberg have now re-issued the Dodge L-700 in 1:25, this is an old kit but a welcome re-issue.A couple of versions of this kit have arrived on the review bench and as they are very similar I will start by looking at the cab and tractor as they are the same in both boxes. The cab comes as a single part cast in white plastic, the doors are separate to the shell to allow them to be posed open. The cab has some reinforcing bars cast across the door apertures to help the cab hold its shape, take care when removing so not to damage the frame, the cab is nicely done and captures the complex shapes on the cab. The doors are moulded on a different sprue, and they have separate interior door cards. A quick check shows them to be an OK fit, will need some work but I don’t think it will be too hard to get them in and straight. The parts on both kits are nicely cast with very little flash anywhere. I will guess Lindberg have cleaned up the moulds for this re-issue. The interior and floor are cast with the big wheel arches, there is some nice engraved detail on the cab floor showing the rubber footwall covering and some rivet detail on the cab floor and wheel arches. There is no detail on the underside and this is a shame as the Dodge L-700 is a tilt-cab, and on this kit the cab can be tilted to show off the V8 engine. No doubt the detailers will go to town here, Ill add some foil for the heat and noise shields and a few wires and cables under here. The cab interior parts include the basic dashboard as found in this truck, there isn’t allot of detail on the part but in reality the real truck is basic, there are 3 seats that have some nice engraved detail to simulate the stitching in the covers. Some careful painting will bring the interior to life, and I would add some scale cab junk to be viewed through the big windows. Also found on this sprue is the engine parts. This is a small V8 diesel engine, the truck had the option of 2 engines and I’m not sure what is depicted in the kit, but a quick search will pop up some images of either engine to allow you to detail and paint the parts to depict your choice of power. The parts are well moulded with a fair amount of detail on the parts, some extra cables and wires will bring it to life when painted. Also seen in the sprues above is the rear axle, the Dodge has a choice of a single or 2 speed axle, and my guess is a twin speed example is tooled on this build again there is good detail with the rough cast housing and some bolt details on the parts. The chassis is made up from 2 rails that look very short for a tractor unit in this scale, but a quick calculation and looking at side on shots of the real deal on the net show them to be correct as it is a very stubby tractor, and I guess this makes it more use in an urban setting. The chassis is made up from the 2 rails and 5 cross members so you will need to take care to get it all straight and true so you build isn’t twisted. The truck is suspended on 4 multi-leaf springs and 2 axles, the two speed rear axle is described above, and the front axle that is supplied can be build working so move the steering lock. Personally I pose the wheels turned a bit then glue solid for strength. Fuel tanks, air tanks and the exhaust are in 2 parts each so will need gluing sanding and filling before painting and adding to the chassis. A pair of large rear spray flaps is included, they are quite thick and have the IPC logo cast on the parts so I will remove them from the mounting and replace with some thin plastic painted black. The wheels are the trilex style, popular at the time in the States, and they have nice detail on the parts with some bolts in the appropriate places. Also on this sprue is the internal door cards for the cab, again basic as is the real truck with some winder handles for the opening door windows and rivet detail on the parts. There is a clear sprue for the cab glass and lights, they are packed in their own bags and don’t look too thick. A small chrome sprue covers the shiny bits for the cab, the bowls for the headlamps come on this chrome sprue and they include the bezels for the lamps and these are a big feature on the Dodge cab. The cabs bumper is also chromed along with the regulation cab roof marker lights along with wipers, and handles for the cab outside. The chrome is nice and not too heavy but along with many others Ill strip and re-do this anyway. A bag of rubber tyres are enclosed, 14 are included for the tractor and trailer. There is some flash on the tyres that will need a swipe with a knife or sandpaper, nothing too major though. The detail is nice, I would say a little heavy on the sidewalls but as I rub the rubber with some sandpaper to dull and weather it a bit and I’m sure this will subdue this. This now concludes the parts for the tractor units for both kits as I said you get all the above plastic in both boxing. I will now look at the trailer parts from the two kits. Trailer parts Chassis The chassis and running gear is also the same in both kits, both trailers run on two axles sitting on multi-leaf springs. The tanker version does have some basic detail on how to convert to a single axle trailer, but as I said this is basic detail and not complete! The parts are again cast in white plastic and there is some minor flash on some of the parts, You start by making a small chassis frame that holds the suspension and axles. A single air tank need gluing together and adding before the suspension and axles. I would pop some wire in to simulate the airlines for the braking system, and also some cables for the electrical wiring on the trailer. The axles include the hobs and brake chambers, I’d drill and plumb these to the air tank to give extra detail on these parts. The wheels are the trilex style to match the tractor unit with the same rubber tyres shown above. You have optional long or short landing legs so you can hook it to your tractor (short legs) or have it as a solo model (Long legs) Tanker The first trailer I will look at is the chrome tanker, this can be built as the long version shown on the box, or a shorter single axle version. As I said the instructions on how to achieve this is sporadic and you will need to take care and take your time if doing this conversion. The tank comes in 4 main parts, 2 upper and two lower with a joint both horizontally along the tank, and vertically in the centre. The parts are designed to hide this with overlaps on the parts. To build a short tank you need to forward upper and lower parts and in the upper section you need to cut a hole for the manhole, this is shown on the underside with an engraved circle to follow with your knife. There is a lot of chrome with the rear locker, hose lockers and ladders all being chrome. It wouldn’t be hard to strip and re-paint either as a lower spec painted trailer of using your choice of chrome paints. Box Trailer. The second trailer on the review bench is a box van style. This is very 70s in style with its vertical beading on the side walls and the twin axle design. The body is supported by the same chassis and running gear as seen above on the tanker so I won’t go over this again. The body is split across the middle with the roof, floor and sides split needing a centre support part. You start by building the chassis and running gear, adding these to the 2 floor parts to create a flat bed, there is some basic detail on the floor, and if you add a small headboard you could leave it as an open flat trailer. The rear doors and frame is build next, the doors and be left to swing on the hinges if wanted to allow you to open and close them to show the inside of the trailer. The sides, back door section and front bulkhead are then added to the floor using the central support to hide and reinforce the joints, take care to keep it square and straight before adding the two roof sections. In this kit you get a couple of scale wood pallets for the load, they come in a light brown and are made up from slats of plastic glued together, painted and weathered they will look good with their fine engrave wood grain surface. You don’t need to worry about making them too square or straight either! A small decal sheet includes some logos for the box van, the Lindberg logo for the two sides and rear along with some US flag and the ‘Made in the USA’ legend under the flags. Conclusion A very welcome re-issue of some classic kits, they will need some work to get tighter being older mouldings, but them where a popular little truck and this can be converted to other L-700s and even the smaller L-600 trucks. Look forward to getting it on the build bench. UK distributors for
  7. Peterbilt 359 truck 1:25 Revell Injection Moulded kit The Peterbilt 359 is just what you would expect from an American truck with its big hood and lots of shiny chrome. The Peterbilt 359 was manufactured by Peterbilt trucks in the USA with the first rolling off the production line in 1967, lasting through till 1987 when a final 359s where produced as a special edition with numbered plaques. The 359, also called the 259 (Peterbilt model numbers typically start with a 2 for a single drive axle, and a 3 for double drive), had various upgrades and enhancements during its production run and the kit made here by Revell is a late model with the fibreglass hood, and the Corvette dashboard. Behind the cab is a typical sleeper box, this looks to me to be a Mercury 63 sleeper with a raised roof and full height walk through from the drivers cab. Construction starts with the chassis frame, this is made up from 2 rails joined with 4 cross members and a large frame that needs to be made up from 2 parts, upper and lower, that located between the rear suspension mountings. Some of the cross members are joined to the sprue by the ends so will need careful removal and cleaning up to ensure a square chassis. The rear suspension links are moulded onto the chassis, great if you are building a truck with this wheel base and axle spread, but a bit of a pain to remove and clean up if you are doing something different. The detail is very good on the parts and with them being attached will ensure the axles run true and square. The front springs are added and the front cab mounts in the next stop along with a substantial front cross member. There is a pair of large air tanks to build and as normal they are in 2 parts each so take care to minimise the amount of sanding you will have to do to erase the join. I will recommend you do this before gluing them along the chassis. Lastly you can add the rear suspension airbag halves and the trailing arms before popping the chassis to one side so you can crack on with the engine. The engine block come in 2 halves, and I guess its biased on the Cummins engine that you could choose to pull you Peterbilt along with as there is a Cummins logo on the decal sheet! The engine looks good and has a good level of detail on the parts. Various ancillary bits glue onto the main block before its added to the chassis. Personally I will skip through some steps and complete my chassis with the axles and other bits so it can be painted before adding the engine. The kit includes some wire and vinyl hose to plumb your engine in a bit and this is very welcome, I will add more to my build but the inclusion of this is very welcome. The completed engine can be dropped into the chassis, as I said I will complete, detail and paint my chassis before adding the completed, painted and detailed engine, with the radiator being assembled, and dropped into place with some hoses to join it to the engine. Below is the reverse of the sprue shown above The cab and hood come joined by some thick sprue gates, take care not to damage the parts when separating them, the level of detail on the parts is very nice with some subtle rivets and other detail on the parts and the shape is well captured of the cab and hood. There are some mould lines in difficult places to try and sand out and it will be hard not to damage the surface details. The cab has separate doors that can be made to open and close with some hinges in the kit, the doors have a separate inner door panel with nice detail (shown above with the engine parts) and the hood needs the wheel arches adding. This will be useful if you build has different colour wings to hood! The inside of the cab is well detailed with the 2 seats having seat suspension detail and seat belts moulded onto the base. The Corvette dashboard has separate insets of the clocks and switches. You have the option to detail the engraved and raised details or sand it flush and use decals. The floor has the rear wall adding, before it is slid into the shell with the seats and dash being added through the open door apertures before hanging the doors on the plastic hinges. The sleeper is made up from 6 parts, with some very good detail inside and out with rivet and door detail on the outside and nice quilted fabric inside the sleeper box. There is a big wide bed with a nicely moulded pillow and bedding that will come to life with some good painting. Its a shame it will be hidden away but you could leave the roof loose so it can be lifted away to view the detail. Now comes the chrome, its an American rig and as such there are 2 large shiny sprues in the kit. The chrome is nicely done on the review sample, not being too thick and it allows the detail of the plastic come through. There are some parts that need gluing together, like the fuel tanks and exhausts so the will be some visible joins so you may want to strip the chrome, build and re-paint some bits. The big Peterbilt 3 bar grill is nice, and a dark wash will give the grill depth. You get a bag with 10 rubber tyres, the detail look OK, with sidewall and tread detail but to my eye they done look right as the tread looks too narrow for the width of the tyre with a big stepped shoulder. I hope the picture shows better what I mean here! There is a small decal sheet that has some data and signs for the truck, along with various Peterbilt badges and logos. There is some operator livery for a David Webb Trucking, a look on the net has found a David Webb Trucking but I cant confirm if this decal is based on fact, if anyone has photos of the real truck please Id like to see them! A couple of eagle decals complete the sheet to fit on the side of the sleeper and on the roof mounted aerofoil. Conclusion This is a nice kit of a popular typical American truck. Will be a cracking OOB build, but can also be a base for many conversions. A welcome return! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  8. International ProStar Truck. 1:25 Injection Moulded kit from Revell The International ProStar truck is manufactured by International Truck Company in North America, it was launched in 2006 and remains in production today being built at two plants, one in Springfield Ohio and a second plant in Mexico. The ProStar comes with a choice of cab sizes, from a regional Day cab unit, to the big 73 sleeper cab with the high skyline roof add to that a host of engine, axle and transmission options this allows owners and operators to specify the correct truck for job. ProStar was given the title of Most Fuel efficient truck in the class 8 sector. This was due to the weight saving design and the aerodynamic cab and hood To celebrate the ProStar was given some upgrades and refinements including a quieter cab with more storage and some of the switch gear was redesigned. This new ProStar+ is the version kitted by Revell with the long 73 sleeper cab with the high roof, the kit includes an aerodynamic fairing for the roof that gives the look of a higher cab, and on the 1:1 helps the truck's aerodynamics when hooked to a reefer (refrigerator) trailer. The kit comes in a large box and when you take the lid off it is full of plastic with all the parts bagged together in a big bag and the individual sprues and parts in their own bags inside. The chrome sprues (it wouldn't be an American rig with no chrome) are bagged and protected with some tissue paper. There are a lot of surplus parts in the kit, which is due to some sprues being carried over from the ProStar sister truck the Lonestar, but there are a lot of differences between the two kits when you look deeper. There are 15 sprues, one being a clear sprue, 3 chromed, and the cab is a single part similar to the LoneStar kit, plus a bag of rubber tyres and an etched grill. Construction kicks off with the truck's 13 litre, 500bhp MaxxForce engine, and the engine block comes in 2 main halves with the Fuller gearbox moulded into it. They fit together with a plate on the back of the gearbox and a locating hole for the prop shaft at the rear, with an oil sump to the base. The level of detail on the engine is very good with the shape of the engine and transmisson being well captured. Assembly of the engine covers the first 12 stages of the build, where there is some very nice detail on the engine, but as always it would benefit form some added details with some thin wire for the wiring harness, and some brass wire for the injector pipes. A look on the net will throw up some pictures of engines to assist you there. The engine is painted in a nice pale metallic blue, this is correct according to the pictures I have seen. Various other parts will need painting so do your research as it will be easier to paint some of the filters and pipes on the sprue. You can then pop the completed engine to one side and make a start on the chassis frame. The chassis is built up from 2 main rails and cross members to give a detailed chassis, and the rails are allot shorter than the ProStar sister truck but have been tooled for this truck so no cutting or shortening of the rails is needed. When building the chassis you will need to take care to keep the chassis true and square. The rear suspension is then added to the chassis, this truck is a 6x4 and as such has a double drive, (twin rear driven axles) and the rear rides on 2 bag air suspension. You have to make up 4 airbags and they are all in 2 parts so some sanding will be needed to lose the joint. When attaching the airbags to the chassis be careful that you glue them on the right way and this is shown in the instructions. The rear suspension mounts can then be added along with the shock absorbers. The axles are tackled next, the rear axles are in 2 halves and need brake back plates and actuators adding, and here some wire can added from the spares box if wanted to simulate the air lines to the brakes. The front axle can then be built and this can be made with working steering if you are careful with the glue. The instructions recommend using the tip of a heated screwdriver to melt the pins slightly to allow them to swivel. Obviously take care here with flames and hot tools! Now would be the time to think about painting you chassis, I would check forward in the instructions to see if there are any other parts that will end up the same colour, so you can add them before spraying the chassis. Now comes the expected chrome. The fuel tanks need to be built up, which comprise two big tanks that sit either side of the chassis under the cab. These come in two halves each and are chromed. Some may want to strip them and re-paint with some Alclad or similar, but when the side skirts are added later in the build they are hidden anyway. The wheels are also built up now and each of the 10 wheels comes in 2 parts. As they are chromed you will need to remove the chrome from the surfaces that need gluing, with the tyres being sandwiched between the halves. The tyres are moulded in black rubber which have nice tread detail, and some detail on the sidewall, but as this is only on one side of the tyre you will need to make sure this will be facing out on your completed truck. The truck's hood is built up next; the main hood is a single moulding and is nicely done, capturing the shape of the truck nicely to my eye. The hood needs the hinges adding to the inside and the chromed headlight bezels gluing in from the underside also. On the ProStar when the hood tilts, the bumper also tilts via some complex hinges, and this has been recreated on the kit, looking like it should be easy to make functional. I will be building this kit shortly so I will report back in a build review at a later date. The Chrome grill fixes to the hood and is shown above on the chrome sprue, and the kit includes an etched metal part to fit between the hood and the grill. This is pre-painted in a silky matt finish and as such is ready to use. Personally I wouldn't add this until the hood has been painted. There are a pair of chromed exhaust stacks to fit behind the cab, but they are in two parts each and as such will have a join that will need covering. I would strip the chrome, glue and sand the parts before re-chroming with some suitable metallic paint, but some may want to use some polished metal tubes or aftermarket metal parts that are available. The cab and sleeper interior come next and the instructions suggest you start with the driver and passenger seats. Each is nicely detailed and look like the real seats, needing a rear part gluing on before the two part base is built and added. The detail is nice with a seatbelt clip on the base, but the armrests are moulded as part of the seat. Id like to see this separate to allow them to be posed up or down, but that may be a bit nit-picking on my part though. The dash is build next and is nicely detailed with the various switches and vents moulded onto the surface. You may want to carefully paint this or sand it off so you can use the kit decal or some aftermarket etched parts. I would have a look on the internet before painting as the ProStar is available in numerous colours and styles and of course drivers have customised their rigs! The rest of the interior can then be built up; the kit contains a floor, cab sides and roof with the storage cupboards for the sleeper area being added. Careful painting following you references will give this some life, and to the rear of the sleeper is the large couch style sleeper bed. This is well done and the moulding has the stitched detail of the 1:1 bed. The cab can be painted and build as a separate part before sliding into the outer shell. The cab shell comes as a large single part moulding, needing the back wall and cab roof gluing on. I have tried these parts together dry and the fit looks good, with the joints being in line with the panel joins and mouldings on the real truck. Some supports for the rear air deflectors need gluing to the back wall of the cab, and these may be in a contrasting colour to the cab, so again check photos of the truck you are building. Mirrors, wipers and the sun visor are then added to the cab before the cab is glued onto its mounts on the chassis. There is a small decal sheet included. This has the orange and silver stripes for the cab as seen on the box top illustration, and there are some licence plates for a Virginia registered truck or some ProStar+ dealer plates. You will need to look for an aftermarket supplier should you want different tags for your model. There are decals for the cab interior covering the dials and switches on the dash, and as I noted earlier in the review you will need to sand the detail off the dash to fit the decals, or use some setting solution to get them to settle over the raised details. There are also some wood effect for the dash and other areas in the cab as seen on various models and specifications of the ProStar. The remainder of the sheet is taken up with some ProStar+ logos for the truck and the legally required reflective markings. The sheet is nicely printed, crisp with fine small details. Conclusion This is a nice kit of a popular US truck. Your spares box will benefit from some of the surplus parts but it is very good to see parts like the shorter chassis rails being redone. Cutting and joining chassis rails would have caused a weak area that could break on your completed build. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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