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Found 1 result

  1. This one is actually nearly finished, so the WIP is going up in one, big long post, apologies for all the scrolling that is to follow. First up is the Aires cockpit, that is definitely better than the otherwise respectable Hasegawa offering; there are two aspects that need to be dealt with, 1) the Hasegawa sill has a step in it and the Aires doesn't, and 2) the Aires rear includes a scalloped flange to which the belts attach and that actually sits on the rear decking. No way this fits first time. The first is not so bad to deal with, a little thinning of the step was all that was required. The second was a bit trickier, I decided to scoop out some resin and judiciously trim the rear deck so that the flange would appear at least to have slid on to the decking. The photo below shows the problem area, albeit blurred. Scooped out, all the bits added and painted - you can see here that there is now clearly a gap under that flange The Aires IP paints up well, Future/Klear adds the glass Slivers of 5 thou plastic card were added to the rear of the central wing section to try to avoid the step that was otherwise apparent in dry-fitting Overall fit is not actually that bad, I opted to use some 3M Acryl Red glaxing putty to clean up mess that I mostly made during gluing; note that G-10s do have a panel line that follows the top seam, so that will be restored later. The 3M putty is great, dires quickly but sands incredibly smooth, no shrinkage, and rescribes like the original plastic. Smells though. This crop shows how that troublesome flange now sits over the rear deck, not easy to achieve but worth the effort The main fuselage joint is cleaned up and a light spray of paint to check for flaws Gap in the photo record here, so we jump...wings are on, cockpit canopy is masked and a coat of the Badger Stynylrez primer has been applied The surface detail is great, and not too much of it has been ruined by me, just a little around the main joints Pre-shading: I will get the hang of airbrushing neat straight lines one day RLM 76 goes down; this is Hataka paint, but one of the old original batches before they reformulated; the finish is eventually lovely, but a nightmare to achieve, with constant clogging from tip drying. I am assured the new formula is a lot better. Next, RLM 75, by now I had swapped to a Vallejo set, safer ground Worms and tape on ready for some 82 Wings done, and remasked the upper fuselage for the mottling Not great, but not awful either; each build at the moment is chosen to include some new techniques that will stretch me, give me some practice and confidence before tackling the big Tamiyas (Spit MkIX & P-51D) and that monster Tiffie from Airfix. This was chosen for the mottle, to force me to learn to use the airbrush for more than just large areas This is where I discovered that the centres of the main fuselage and wing crosses are also RLM 82 and not black, and therefore not provided in the kit decals, which only provide the white outlines. So here was another technique to learn: out with the ruler for some carefully measuring, and then out with the Frisk film for some careful cutting, and voilá, home-made masks After a coat of gloss the decals were relatively trouble-free, though I did end up thoroughly breaking the dotted red no-walk lines so just left them off...I can hear the sound of tutting already. The white could be more opaque, there are places where you can see the paint transitions underneath. Panel lines were washed with Flory Grey and Dark Dirt, the effect is less contrasty and severe than the black. Weathering is one of my favourite stages, though my efforts at oil streaking are still not up to the standard I want Superglue and various tweezers & clamps help to get the aerial wires - invisible thread is my choice, very thin, but strong and a good dark colour A few bits and bobs finish it off, I did manage to lose the pitot to the carpet, so stretched sprue has had to substitute. Overall an enjoyable, if slow build, final photos will follow later. The kit is basically sound, but there are some tricky joins that need a little work to avoid unnecessary steps appearing, particularly the joint between the rear and forward fuselage sections. Despite the spars, the wing to fuselage join could have been more positive, there seemed to be a fair amount of play that had to be watched, though that could have been those plastic card spacers I used, or indeed the Aires cockpit fouling the centre section. I want to speed up my builds now, get more kits under the belt, so next I am going to do a "double twin" build, a Hasegawa Hs129 and the Trumpy Whirlwind.
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